HOW TO PROPERLY RELEASE ROOM FLOWERS - PROFESSIONAL TIPS
Potted flowers are usually transplanted in the spring, before growth begins. There are rules here.
Replant plants during flowering only in case of urgent need - for example, if a pot has broken or you have noticed a strong slowdown due to a lack of nutrients. The new pot should be larger than the previous one on 2-3 cm in diameter. Transplanting directly into a large pot will result in the oppression of the root system and the dying off of small roots. In addition, the soil is not penetrated by roots, quickly sour, there may appear mycelium of pathogenic fungi.
Rinse all pots in a pink solution of potassium permanganate, dry, pour any drainage into the bottom - pebbles, broken shards, and then a layer of soil substrate and carefully transfer the plant, taking care not to damage the root system. After that, fill the space with soil, slightly compacted, leaving the 1 -1,5 cm above the edge of the pot, and pour it with plenty of water.
If the plant is rotten, then when transplanting, remove all rotted roots, wash in a pink solution of potassium permanganate and transplant in a new soil in a pot of smaller diameter.
A soil substrate, even purchased in a store, needs to be frozen before use in the freezer (or on the street, if the frost is around 18-20 °) for several days. After thawing the soil is recommended to shed a pink solution of potassium permanganate.
Herb plants (begonias, geraniums, etc.) before transplanting, clean off dried leaves, old stems, and cut out long sprouts.
In the first two weeks after transplanting, keep all the herbaceous soil moist. Cacti and succulents can not be re-moistened even immediately after transplantation.
Direct sunlight is harmful to many plants, so temporarily remove them from the window sill, where there is a lot of sun.
With the growth of shoots and new leaves should be increased and watering plants. Never water, if the soil in the pot still retains moisture, as this indicates poor absorption of the soil solution by the roots. Repeated watering can cause stagnation of water and root decay.
If in the spring you did not have time to transplant the plants before they bloom, then wait until they have fully bloomed, and only then transplant. Do not postpone the transplant until next year. Autumn plants are not transplanted, unless there is a question of their salvation.
Start feeding with spring. It is better to use liquid complex fertilizers. Plants are watered with fertilizer solution twice a month from April to August.
RECIPES OF SOIL SUBSTRATE
Buy ready-made soil mix in the store - this is probably the best. In this case, all the preferences of this culture are taken into account.
But you can prepare the substrate yourself.
For cacti: 0,5 part of a small river line, 1 / 4 peat moss and leafy humus. You can add small pebbles to this mixture - up to 20%. For succulents (these include sweeties, havortiya, stocks and other plants with succulent fleshy stems and leaves): for 1 / 3 humus (hardwood or from bark) and river sand and for 1 / 6 of high peat and perlite (or vermiculite) .
For ferns: 0,5 part of the fibrous heather land, on 1 / 4 manure and humus. For citrus fruits: 0,5 portions of soda ash, 1 / 4 sand and high peat, and it is very desirable to add up to 10% composted organic matter. Palm trees prefer a substrate of equal parts of top (brown) peat, rotted manure, rotted bark and fine river sand. Bulbous and tuberous grow well in a mixture of equal parts of garden soil, sand, brown peat and humus from the bark.
For orchids, it is advised to mix sphagnum moss and fern feed. Based on my own experience, I propose to take pine bark (from a dead tree, red-brown in color without inclusions of resin) and charcoal. Grind pieces of bark and coal to a size of about 0,5-1 cm and mix in the ratio 1: 1 - this is the case if there is high humidity in the room where the orchid grows. If the humidity in the room is low, then on the 2 part of the pine bark, take the 1 part of the charcoal.
HOW TO PLANT THE RESTRICTED GRAPH
Some indoor plants, such as ficuses, easily give roots, if you cut a twig and put it in a jar of water. The rooted cuttings need to be transplanted when the roots are not too long, regardless of the season (although we do not usually transplant houseplants in winter, but wait for spring or summer). It must be remembered that the "water" roots are much softer than those that were formed when the cutting took root in a solid substrate — sand, pearlite, etc. — and when they are planted in the ground they are injured much more.
Pot "for growth" does not fit, pick up such that only fit the roots. The substrate should be looser and lighter than recommended for this culture (you can increase the proportion of sand, add fine clay, crumb foam or a little shredded peat moss).
In order for the cutting to take root faster and more reliably, it needs heat and light. If the weather is fine, and the house has heating, the pot can simply be put on the sunny windowsill. When it is cool in the room (below 20 °), it blows from the window, and it is raining or snowing outside, you will have to be creative.
The simplest thing is to arrange the plant under a desk lamp (screw an energy-saving lamp of a warm spectrum instead of an ordinary incandescent bulb), which you will turn on for 10-12 hours a day. In any case, the first time, while the roots are still working poorly, the cuttings planted in the substrate need more humid air than it usually does in rooms. To do this, you can simply cover the plant with a plastic bag or use the top half of a plastic bottle as a greenhouse.
Immediately after planting the stalk poured abundantly to wet the entire earthen room. Remove the accumulated water in the pan after 10-15 minutes. The next time you water, just making sure that the top layer of soil in the pot is already dried. Do the same in the future.
ROOM FLOWING - VIDEO
© Author: L.KALUGINA, agronomist