- ✓ GENDER'S CALENDAR - JANUARY
- ✓ GENDER'S CALENDAR - FEBRUARY
- ✓ GENDER'S CALENDAR - MARCH
- ✓ MARCH - WORKS IN THE GARDEN
- ✓ GENDER'S CALENDAR - APRIL
- ✓ GENDER'S CALENDAR - MAY
- ✓ GARDEN'S CALENDAR - JUNE
- ✓ GARDEN'S CALENDAR - JULY
- ✓ GENDER'S CALENDAR - AUGUST
- ✓ GARDEN'S CALENDAR - SEPTEMBER
- ✓ GENDER'S CALENDAR - OCTOBER
- ✓ NOVEMBER - GARDEN'S CALENDAR
- ✓ GARDEN'S CALENDAR - DECEMBER
- ✓ USEFUL TIPS AND MEMORIES FOR GARDENERS AND GARDENERS
GENDER'S CALENDAR - A YEAR FORWARD!
With the onset of the summer season, we all face unrest, a constant lack of time and a fear of not being in time on time, because the beds, the garden, and the flower garden require constant attention from us. At the same time, planting is not limited to: you have to deal with the vagaries of the weather, with pests and pathogens, with weeds ... How to manage everything? Draw up a work plan in advance and stick to it. Of course, no one is safe from force majeure, and country troubles will require some adjustment, but in general it will be much easier to deal with them.
Developing such a plan from scratch will not be easy even for an experienced summer resident. To facilitate the task, we have compiled for you a calendar of a gardener, gardener and florist, time-tested by more than one generation of summer residents. Study it, adjust it to your own plot - and you will not only have time to cope with all gardening tasks, but also find time to relax in nature.
Read, put into service and enjoy the rich crops with us!
GENDER'S CALENDAR - JANUARY
The second month of winter for many of us is associated with the New Year holidays and relaxation from gardening. And indeed, there is no rush in preparation for the summer season. However, if you are not used to sitting idle, you can find useful activities in the midst of winter - for example, to draw up a complete and detailed action plan for the year ahead. In order not to miss important nuances, do not rely on memory. It is best to draw a plan of your plot on paper, mark the places of future beds and greenhouses on it, determine the location of plants, taking into account crop rotation. To make the picture as complete as possible, do not be lazy to note the approximate dates for sowing or planting various crops on the plan.
Thanks to this approach, you will know in advance which parts of the garden will be vacated earlier or will be occupied later, which means you can plan the planting of precocious, green or cold-resistant crops without developing additional areas.
And do not forget to periodically audit the vegetables in the store or cellar. With prolonged or improper storage on the roots, gray and white rot can develop - therefore, gray fluffy deposits or softening and mucousness of the affected areas should be alerted. Lead-gray spots on potatoes indicate tuber damage by late blight. The lacrimation and softening of onions suggests that the vegetable suffered from neck rot.
If the type of vegetable causes you even the slightest doubt, urgently remove it from the cellar and destroy it so that the “neighbors” are not infected.
JANUARY - WORKS IN THE GARDEN
In January, you can (and even need to avoid the hustle and be sure to find what you want) to purchase vegetable seeds for the next season. At the same time, you can check the seeds bought or collected with your own hands for germination.
In winter, you can buy plastic wrap and covering material, organic and mineral fertilizers, protective preparations against diseases and pests, plant growth stimulants, garden tools. If you “stretch” the purchase of everything necessary for a summer resident for several months, you can not only save time (which is sorely lacking in the spring), but also plan your expenses (you must agree, this is better than giving all your salary or pension at once).
At this time, you can begin to prepare for growing seedlings: prepare nutritious soil and containers for plants.
If you have a winter greenhouse on your site, you can start growing fast-growing green crops (arugula, watercress, lettuce and mustard, spinach, radish). Just remember that these plants need backlighting. If there is no suitable greenhouse, you can equip a mini-garden for growing greens directly on the windowsill. Try planting onions, root vegetables of parsley or celery to distill greens.
JANUARY - WORKS IN THE GARDEN
In January, you can purchase planting material. Seedlings left for spring planting need periodic inspections.
It is necessary to combat garden pests, their nests and wintering places. Remove from the trees and burn the nests of the goldfish and hawthorn, cut off the parts of the shoots on which the eggs of the ringed cocoon are wintering.
It is necessary to periodically shake off the snow from trees and shrubs, not to forget about the benefits of snow retention, to provide shelter for the roots of plants with snow.
In January, winter vaccinations can be carried out.
Throughout the cold season, birds need to be fed. A good solution would be the manufacture of birdhouses.
At this time, experienced gardeners stratify and sow the seeds of stone fruit and seed
Sometimes it happens that I buy seedlings in the fall, and I can only plant them in the spring. Usually, by the middle of winter, the dormant period of plants ends, so I have to make sure that my seedlings in the storehouse do not “wake up” ahead of time. If I notice kidney swelling or root growth, I try to lower the temperature in the room or transfer the seedlings to a cooler place. If you have doubts about whether the plants have frozen, just cut some branches and sprout them.
To protect the garden from hares, gnawing the bark of young trees, plants are coated with a creamy mixture of mullein and clay with the addition of a spoonful of carbolic acid. A good effect is obtained by wrapping the trunks with a metal mesh. To "kill the appetite" mice will help trampling the snow around the boles.
JANUARY - WORKS IN THE FLOWER
In the first month of the new year, you need to try to find time for flower crops. Review your stock of flower seeds and check for germination.
Inspect the flower beds and flower beds in a summer cottage or garden. Are they well covered in snow? If necessary, add snow from the paths or the roof, but the snow between the flower beds with perennials, roses and bulbous flowers should be drowned to disrupt the mouse moves.
Check the condition of the stored corms of gladioli and dahlias. The temperature in the room where they are stored should be about 7 ° C, humidity - about 80%.
At the end of January, seeds of cloves of Shabo are sown for seedlings - plants with a fairly prolonged vegetation period.
In January, I begin to accumulate useful waste for the next season. I don’t throw away wood ash, onion and garlic husks, tea leaves - all this will definitely come in handy for me in the garden, in the garden, and in the flower garden.
Tatyana Olegovna Vrublevskaya
GENDER'S CALENDAR - FEBRUARY
The last month of winter adds trouble to summer residents - more active preparation for the spring hot season begins. It is in February that we most often begin to grow seedlings of certain vegetable and flower crops with a long growing season. And also the end of winter is an opportune time to finish everything that we did not manage to realize in the fall or lost sight of in January. It’s not too late to draw up a plan for future planting, pick varieties and calculate the number of vegetable, fruit, berry and flower crops for growing this season. You can buy planting material, fertilizers and missing equipment. In addition, the unstable February weather adds to the trouble - snowstorms, frosts and snowfalls, alternating with sunny days and thaws, can pose a serious threat to garden inhabitants.
FEBRUARY - WORKS IN THE GARDEN
At the end of winter, it is necessary to conduct an audit of working equipment and covering materials. If necessary, repair them or replace them with new ones.
If the seeds have not been purchased before, purchase them now and check for germination. The same applies to fertilizers and drugs that stimulate plant growth.
At this time, seed potatoes can be laid for vernalization.
In February, you need to find time to prepare the greenhouse for planting vegetables.
In winter greenhouses with artificial lighting, early-ripening green crops can be grown (for example, cilantro, spinach, radish or arugula). Plant celery or parsley root for forcing herbs. Grow green onions.
Some vegetable growers at the end of the month begin to grow seedlings of pepper and eggplant - for greenhouses. At the same time, sowing for seedlings of early tomatoes for closed ground is allowed. In the last decade of February, you can begin to grow early white and cauliflower from seeds.
To make the snow melt faster, at the end of February you can sprinkle a mixture of peat and ash on the site of future beds (in the proportion 1: 1). And in small areas for this purpose you can spread a black opaque film.
I recommend starting to grow pepper seedlings in the first half of February. I noticed that in the very beginning seedlings grow very slowly - the first leaves appear not earlier than in 3 weeks, or even in a month. And I also want to advise you to grow peppers without picking - immediately in separate cups, because young seedlings do not tolerate transplanting.
By the way, I noticed that eggplants do not like transplanting. I sow the seeds of this culture for seedlings in February too - not only at the beginning, but in the middle of the month.
In late February, I begin to grow seedlings of early tomatoes, which then will grow in the greenhouse. At the same time, I also plant early white cabbage seeds - I grow it myself, and do not buy ready-made.
FEBRUARY - WORKS IN THE GARDEN
As the sun begins to warm in February, the threat of sunburn burns of tree bark (especially young) appears. To prevent this, approximately in the second half of the month it is worth updating the whitewash on the branches and trunks of garden inhabitants. For this, a solution prepared from 10 l of water, 2,5 kg of fresh lime and 0,5 kg of copper sulfate (copper sulfate must be previously dissolved in water) is suitable. You can add to the mix 0,5 l of milk.
The fight against rodents and pests is still relevant. We continue to trample the snow around the boles of young trees and dug seedlings in order to destroy the mouse passages. We tie the trunks of young trees with prickly spruce branches, coat them with a pungent smell or wrap them with a metal mesh - to protect them from hares. We remove pest nests.
We shade tree trunks on warm sunny days at the end of the month and insulate tree trunks with snow in anticipation of frosts.
We continue snow retention activities.
If necessary, we conduct winter vaccinations.
In the second half of February, we begin to stratify the seeds of pears and apple trees to obtain seed stocks.
We examine the seedlings and cuttings left in the fall for storage, for mold, drying out or germination.
On frost-free days at the end of winter, fruit tree cuttings can be harvested, which will later be stored in moderately moist sand in the cellar or in moist tissue in the refrigerator.
At the end of winter, I inspect my garden. And if I discover tinder funders, I immediately remove them and clean the wood to a healthy layer, and then disinfect this place with 3% iron solution or 1% copper sulfate solution.
If I find a hollow, I clean out all the accumulated dust from it and also disinfect it with copper or iron sulfate. Then I fill the hollow with small fragments of brick and fill it with a solution of b parts of coarse sand and 1 parts of cement and lime.
Sergey Vasilievich Voloshin, a. Novaya Guta, Gomel region
In February, after snowstorms, you need to shake off the snow caps from the branches of trees and shrubs, under the weight of which the plants can break. Moreover, it is necessary to carry out such cleaning from the bottom up, so that the snow falling from the top does not further make heavier or break the snowy lower branches.
I do so
To get seed stocks of apple and pear, I lay their seeds for stratification in the first half of February: first I soak in water for a day (immediately throw away those that float), then send it to a pink solution of potassium permanganate for an hour, remove, dry and dust with charcoal. I take a clean nylon cloth, lay a layer of sphagnum moss on it, spread the seeds on top and cover them with a layer of moss. I send everything to a dark, cool (from 3 to 5 degrees of heat) room. If necessary, moisten the moss. After the bulk of the seeds has bent, I transfer them to a cold place with a temperature of no higher than 0 ° C and make sure that the seeds do not germinate until the right time.
In February, you need to check whether the berry bushes (gooseberries, raspberries, currants) are well covered with snow. During thaws, it is necessary to ensure that there is no water on the bed with strawberries and strawberries, because after freezing the ice formed will block the access of oxygen to the roots and may lead to the death of plants. If February turned out to be frosty, but not snowy, beds with berry crops are insulated with spruce spruce branches, which are covered with dry peat.
FEBRUARY - WORKS IN THE FLOWER
In February, flower growers sow seedlings for seedlings of some annual and climbing flowers (salvia, lobelia, heliotrope, kobe).
At this time, it’s not too late to plant Shabo cloves, if you did not manage to do it last month. If the seeds were planted in January, it is time to move on to picking young seedlings.
GENDER'S CALENDAR - MARCH
The arrival of spring rejoices in all life, but for summer residents it means the beginning of a tense time - work in the garden and garden is added in March. It is important to have time to do everything that we did not have or could not in the winter, but at the same time not to forget about the important things that should be implemented according to the plan in the first spring month.
With the first spring rays, we begin to grow seedlings of early vegetable crops and annual flowers, pay more attention to the garden, continue pest control, and harvest cuttings of fruit crops for grafting and rooting.
In no case should you ignore the following points of the work plan:
- moisture preservation in the area;
- spring pruning of berry bushes and fruit trees;
- integrated pest management and disease prevention.
MARCH - WORKS IN THE GARDEN
As a rule, in the first half of March, vegetable growers begin to grow seedlings of early varieties of cucumbers and tomatoes, leeks, cauliflower and celery, which then "move" to heated film greenhouses or warm greenhouses.
Care and attention requires seedlings of eggplant, pepper and white cabbage of early varieties. If it was not possible to sow the seeds of these crops for seedlings last month, in early March you can still catch up. In the third decade of the month, seeds of head of lettuce are planted on seedlings.
In March, you need to find time for cleaning and airing the greenhouses, loosening the soil in them and removing weeds.
The laying of early potato tubers for vernalization continues.
Experienced and practical summer residents in March will finalize their gardening program for spring and summer, adding additional points to it and planning future plantings based on weather conditions and other important factors.
Care for damaged plants. Young branches eaten by hares are cut to the kidney or to the lateral branch. If a young (about 5 years old) tree is seriously damaged by small rodents, grafting with a "bridge", which is carried out after the buds open, will help to save it. If cambium has not suffered from small surface injuries on trunks and branches, they can be left untreated - such wounds will heal themselves. With significant damage to the cortex, the wounds are well treated with garden varieties without stripping the edges of the wounds.
Spring “sunscreen” whitewash trunks helps protect plants from sunburn. They perform it after the bindings from the stands and the bases of the skeletal branches are removed and when the snow melts. Before this, it is necessary to spread pieces of old tarpaulin or burlap under the trees and carefully clean the trunks with a scraper or brush from the dead old bark. After that, the trunks are covered with a layer of new whitewash.
Pruning and shaping fruit trees and shrubs is one of the most critical gardening jobs in March. For each culture, this process is different, but there are general recommendations. So, the branches to be pruned are cut only onto the ring, at the top of the annular influx.
If the cut is too deep or goes below the prescribed level, a large wound will form, which will heal poorly and for a long time by the plant. If the cut is performed above the level of the ring influx, a stump will remain, which over time will become a breeding ground for pests and pathogens. Large branches need to be cut in parts: first file them in the lower part, departing from the base for about 30 cm, and only after that cut in the upper part at a distance of about 5 cm from the lower cut.
A sawed branch in this way will fall under its own weight, however, it is important to hold it with your hand and then carefully cut the remaining stump. Thin and light branches with a diameter of up to 3 cm are cut with a garden knife or secateurs. All places of cuts must be treated with garden var. As for annual growths, they need to be cut off not in an arbitrary order (as beginner gardeners mistakenly do), but always on a fully developed bud directed in the right direction.
Harvesting cuttings for spring vaccination and rooting.
Pest control continues. Disease prevention is carried out. We continue to feed and attract birds to the garden.
To protect my garden from herbivorous pests that woke up in the spring, in March, immediately after the snow melted, I spread pieces of old (but strong!) Film or the remains of roofing felt under trees and bushes. Such a "carpet" will not allow pests to winter there to get out of the soil.
MARCH - WORKS IN THE FLOWER
In March, annual flowers are sown for seedlings.
In the first spring month, salvia, cloves of Shabo and lobelia are fed.
At the end of March, lobelia and salvia are picked - in the phase of the first true leaflet. Small seedlings of lobelia are planted several pieces in one container.
At temperatures above 0 ° C, roses covered in autumn can be ventilated. To do this, remove snow from the ends of the shelter or raise the covering material for a day. After airing, the shelter is returned to its original place.
GENDER'S CALENDAR - APRIL
The second month of spring also leaves no time for gardeners and gardeners to relax. It is important to finalize the plan of planting, to cultivate the soil and prepare it for future crops, to deal with the prevention of diseases in healthy trees and shrubs, to restore and treat the plants affected by frost and sunburn. In addition, you need to prepare planting material for the garden, vegetable garden and flower garden.
APRIL - WORKS IN THE GARDEN
Plant health and their resistance to diseases and pests largely depend on the quality of processing and preparing the soil. They begin work by digging up thawed and slightly dried earth. After that, it is shed with a hot solution of potassium permanganate - to get rid of pathogens and pests. Then, if necessary, organic and mineral fertilizers are added to the soil, if they did not do so in the fall. If the site was fertilized well in advance, spring digging should not be too deep. The dug up bed is leveled with a rake.
Light soils in the spring are dug to a lesser depth than in the fall, and heavy clay soils are dug to the same depth as during the autumn cultivation.
In April, it is necessary to finally plan the location of vegetable crops on the site, taking into account the rate of ripening: early ripe, mid-ripe or late ripening.
It's time to prepare the seeds for planting. Calibrate them and check for germination. To start growing seedlings of leek, cabbage of all kinds and pumpkin crops (watermelons, cucumbers, melons) for film greenhouses.
In April, sowing in film greenhouses of radishes and cold-resistant green crops is carried out. In the second half of the month (under suitable weather conditions), you can sow cucumber seeds for seedlings for further cultivation under temporary film shelters.
At the end of April (again, depending on weather conditions), you can start sowing in open ground radishes, radishes, spinach, carrots, beets, turnips, onions, beans, lettuce. The seeds of these plants can germinate at a soil temperature of about 5 ° C, and emerged seedlings can withstand short-term frosts to -5 ° C.
The time has come for planting early ripe potatoes (it is possible using film shelters) and sowing mid-ripe varieties of cabbage seeds under the film. You need to do this in the last decade of the month.
APRIL - WORKS IN THE GARDEN
Inspect all the plants in the garden. Pruning fruit trees and forming berry bushes. Experts recommend the following sequence: first cut black currants and raspberries, then gooseberries, white and red currants, apple trees and pears, last but not least plums and cherries.
Grafting and re-grafting trees. At this time, cuttings of the best varieties of pear are planted in the crown of other pear trees, and rooted cuttings of plums and cherries are planted. In early April, lignified cuttings of sea buckthorn and black currant are planted. At the end of the month, raspberries (root cuttings harvested from the fall) and actinidia (lignified cuttings) are planted.
Good time for harvesting planting material. It is necessary to check the condition of seedlings left in storage since autumn. Shortly before planting on the site, you need to check the condition of the root system of seedlings. Broken roots need to be trimmed with secateurs to a healthy area.
By the way
Apple and pear seedlings can be planted both in autumn (after the leaves fall) and in spring (strictly before buds open). And it is advisable to plant cherries and plums in the spring, not late with the timing of planting - also before the buds open.
To treat plants with special preparations for the control of overwintered pests and for the prevention of diseases. To clean the trunks of adult garden trees, to treat and disinfect wounds, to repair hollows, to remove dead and dry branches. Trim and burn branches affected by the silkworm.
Trees older than 15 years in the spring, it is desirable to clean from the old bark. Growing, it is covered with moss and becomes the habitat of pathogens and pests. For cleaning use special scrapers or metal brushes. After cleaning, the bark should become smooth.
Whiten the stems and the bases of skeletal branches (if you haven’t done this before)
Loosen the soil in near-stem circles and feed garden crops.
Prepare material for smoke piles (last year's foliage, needles, cut branches) in case of frost.
Carry out early spring watering if the soil is too dry.
Gradually remove the shelter from overwintered plants, focusing on weather conditions.
Plant pome fruit, stone fruit and berry crops. You can transplant trees and shrubs.
In the second half of April, it is time to prepare the ground for the spring planting of wild strawberries. You need to do this at least a week before the planned time for planting seedlings - so that the excavated earth settles and slightly thickens, otherwise there is a risk that the roots of the plants will become bare after a while and the strawberries will begin to hurt.
The April garden plan necessarily includes feeding the overwintered plants. It is best to do this immediately after the snow melts, when the soil is well absorbed fertilizer. To feed fruit trees, fertilizers are distributed on the surface of the soil in near-stem circles, and for better assimilation, the top layer of the soil is dug shallow. On 1 m2 Soils usually consume 10 g of urea, for 0,5 cups of superphosphate and potassium sulfate. You can replace these 3 fertilizers with ash glasses. Every 3 of the year, under each adult tree, 1 is added a bucket of organic fertilizers. When feeding berry bushes at this time of the year, nitrogen is important, so the recommended urea dose above can be increased to 20 g by 1 m2.
APRIL - WORKS IN THE FLOWER
Pick of seedlings of annual flowers sown in March. Care for seedlings and its top dressing.
Fertilizing bulbous (hyacinths, daffodils, tulips) and chalk-bulbous (scylla, snowdrops, crocuses, muscari) crops.
Fertilizing perennials wintering in the ground (astilbe, hosta, irises, phloxes, primroses, peonies, lilies of the valley). Loosening of the soil after the sprouts become clearly visible.
Reproduction of rhizome perennials by the division method - after the soil has finally thawed, but before the buds begin to grow.
Preparation of a site for sowing seeds of annual flowers in open ground (cornflowers, Iberis, Lavater, Clarkia, Escholzia, Reseda).
Gradual removal of shelters from clematis and roses, from rhizomes of irises.
In the second half of April, they begin to cut roses. After this procedure, the plants are fed.
Sowing seeds of perennials grown through seedlings (delphinium, cirrus cloves, aquilegia, nyvyanik) in the second decade of April.
GENDER'S CALENDAR - MAY
In the last spring month, it is important to have time to finish all the main plantings, provide plants with favorable conditions for growth and fruiting, and also protect them from spring return frosts.
MAY - WORKS IN THE GARDEN
It is good to loosen the soil after spring digging, removing all plant debris and weeds.
Proceed to the hardening of seedlings grown on the windowsill. For this, containers with seedlings are taken out into the open air for a day, first shading from the bright sun to avoid burns.
In early May they plant greens and vegetables that were not planted last month for some reason (carrots, radishes, onions, feathers, parsley, spinach, dill, cilantro, pumpkin, Chinese cabbage). Greens and radishes are sown in open ground, but under the film.
At this time, inspect the winter crops of garlic. The soil in the garden is loosened. In dry weather, watering will not hurt.
After the soil warms up and dries, an early planting of potatoes is carried out (in the holes, in the furrows or ridges - depending on the type of soil, local climate and the personal preferences of the vegetable grower). The site is dug up and loosened the day before, since the root system is poorly developed in potato in dense unprocessed soil, and the tubers are deformed and shredded.
At the beginning of the month also begin to plant mid-season cabbage. Usually this crop is planted on ridges in 2 rows with a distance between rows of 50 cm, and between plants in a row - 40 cm.
Early varieties of cabbage need to be poured and fed with saltpeter (0,3 kg of fertilizer on 10 and 2 beds), manually distributing fertilizer around the plants and making sure that its particles do not fall on the leaves.
In May, it was time to take care of the cucumbers. This culture prefers fertile soils and grows well in lighted areas protected from wind and drafts. In May, seedlings of cucumbers in the phase of 3-4 leaves are planted in film greenhouses - summer residents with the “experience” got used to doing this almost immediately after harvesting early green crops. Young plants are planted in an ordinary way at a distance of 30 cm from each other. And the distance between the rows should be at least 1 m. For sowing immediately in open ground, seeds stored in the 3 of the year are best suited - although plants in this case develop more slowly than usual, they are less likely to get sick and form a larger number of female flowers. By the way, for early crops use dry seeds of cucumbers, for later crops they hatch or swell, but not sprouted. It is important to plant only in moist soil - in dry soil they will die. Plant seeds of cucumbers in the soil after it is well warmed up in shallow (about 3 cm) furrows, adhering to the 50 × 60 cm pattern.
Tomato seedlings aged about 50 days can be planted in open ground only after the threat of May frost has passed. The planting pattern depends on the variety: for low-growing varieties and hybrids of tomatoes - 50 × 40 or 50 × 30 cm, for medium-sized - 60 × 60 or 50 × 50 cm, for tall - 70 × 70 cm.
MAY - WORKS IN THE GARDEN
Planting fruit trees. In addition to the usual fruit crops (sea buckthorn, apple tree, plum), in May, you can plant a long-growing vigorous actinidia vine - not only a wonderful decoration of any garden, but also a source of tasty and healthy fruits.
If previously planted trees and shrubs are too deep in the soil, they need to be replanted. If the seedlings are buried only slightly, it is enough to carefully scoop up the earth from the root neck.
Vaccination and re-grafting of plants is best done in the first half of May. Re-grafting is used to replace a plant of one variety with another, and also to quickly wait for the first harvest from newly planted trees. For its implementation, healthy fruit trees no older than 10 years are chosen.
Re-grafting can be done in the following ways: behind the bark, copulation, oblique wedge, into a cleft, into a lateral incision, etc. In each case, the method depends on the thickness of the stock: thin branches are usually re-grafted with copulation, thick branches (with a diameter of about 7 cm) - splitting or behind the cortex saddle.
In May, we must not forget about the care of wild strawberries. With the advent of young leaves, old and dead foliage is removed, and the soil between the rows is neatly and shallowly loosened. In the fruiting rows, the soil is not touched, since the closed leaves protect it well from moisture loss. As a rule, young strawberry seedlings do not need fertilizers, since nutrients are introduced into the soil before planting. But fruiting bushes will be grateful for feeding infusion of mullein, bird droppings or urea solution.
Protecting the garden from pests. Disease prevention and control.
Protect plants from frost. The most dangerous period for the garden begins at the time of its flowering - in this case, a sharp cooling can lead to mass death of the ovaries. The most proven method of protection against spring frost is considered to be smoke using so-called smoke piles, which allows you to increase the temperature in the garden by a couple of degrees. Heaps are constructed from dry material (straw, chips, twigs), a layer of dense and moist plant debris (tops, leaves) is laid on top.
Peat, grass, or land is sprayed on top to increase the flow of smoke. On one side, heaps gently lay paper or lighter trash. From 7 to 10 such heaps are enough to protect the garden from frost. Kindle is started when the air temperature drops to 0 ° C and continues to fall.
Treatment of wounds and injuries of fruit crops.
To protect the garden from fungal diseases, in May, even before flowering, I spray fruit trees with a solution of one of the preparations: mustard - 100 g per 10 l of water, copper chloride - 40 g per 10 l of water, sulfur and lime - according to 100 g per 10 l of water.
Regular invasion (3 times with an interval of 5 days) of spraying the garden with infusions of garlic, onions, calendula or celandine helps me prevent the invasion of the spider mite.
To combat the kidney tick that affects currants, I spray the bushes with colloidal sulfur or garlic infusion. Abundant dusting with powder from the dry leaves of tansy helps at the end of flowering of currants, and then 3 times every couple of days.
Tatyana Olegovna Vrublevskaya
MAY - WORKS IN THE FLOWER
In May, flower beds are completely exempted from winter shelters, being guided by weather conditions: if the spring is cold, they are in no hurry with the removal of shelters.
From the second half of the month, sowing of nasturtium seeds is started in a non-seedling way. Seeds before planting for a day are soaked in water. An 1 flower bed will require 2 seeds on an 10 m45 flower garden. Flowering occurs approximately XNUMX days after sowing seeds in the ground.
In the first decade of May, corms of gladioli planted with flakes are planted.
At the beginning of the month, dahlias are divided. 1-2 root tubers with 1-2 buds and part of the root neck should remain on each dividend. Delenki are dried and planted in boxes with fertile soil.
In May, lilies propagate, plant clematis, sow bells, mallow, digitalis, and Turkish cloves.
Bulbous crops are abundantly watered, moistening the soil to a depth of about 20 cm. At the same time, culling of diseased specimens is carried out, removing them from the flower bed along with a lump of earth.
GARDEN'S CALENDAR - JUNE
The main work this month is related to sowing seeds of vegetable and flower crops, planting seedlings and taking care of existing plantings. Prevention of diseases in plants, pest and weed control are still relevant. Taking into account possible frosts on the soil, care must be taken to protect plants from sudden changes in temperature - it is advisable not to remove far covering material.
JUNE - WHAT TO DO IN THE GARDEN
Sowing pumpkin crops (zucchini, cucumbers).
Planting vegetable seedlings (tomatoes, squash, bell peppers, eggplant, mid-ripe white cabbage), as well as carrots, turnips and radishes for winter storage and consumption in open ground.
Care of the beds includes watering, weeding, thinning seedlings and loosening the soil.
Pinching cucumbers and pinching tomatoes.
Sowing seedlings for perennial vegetable crops (onions, rhubarb, sorrel).
Fertilizing vegetable crops with mineral, organic and micronutrient fertilizers.
First of all, tall varieties of tomatoes are stepsoned, forming them into one stem. Mid-sized varieties form a stem in 2-3. Extra stepchildren are removed every 10 days, leaving a stump 0,5 cm high.
JUNE - WORKS IN THE GARDEN
Watering and feeding fruit trees and shrubs. Young trees in the garden are recommended to be abundantly watered at least 4 times per season. In dry, hot summers - even more often. Optimal for trees and shrubs are considered rare, but abundant watering. To avoid rapid evaporation of moisture, the soil under the trees after watering is mulched with an 2-centimeter layer of dry earth, and after a few days, it is loosened and mulched again. In dry weather, shrubs are watered twice a month: in the early days, when the plants grow actively and form ovaries, and in late June, when the berries begin to pour in juice. It is advisable to combine watering at this time of year with top dressing.
Sanitary pruning of plants. Separate dry branches can be removed at any convenient time by cutting to a healthy tissue. Completely dried branches are cut into a ring. All wounds and places of cuts are treated with garden var. If a young tree during the winter freezes along the line of snow cover, it is cut into a stump when new shoots form on it, one, the most healthy and strong, is left on its basis in the future and form a new crown.
Green cuttings of fruit trees and shrubs. Cherry, sea buckthorn and plum are usually cut in the first or second decade of June, black currants in the middle of the month, gooseberries in late June. In advance, you need to prepare a greenhouse in which the cuttings will take root. You need to equip it in a warm, dry place, which is lit in the morning
or evening hours, and is closed from direct sunlight in the daytime. At a selected site, a trench is dug with a depth of about 25 cm.
A box without a bottom is about the same size as the trench is knocked together from clean boards, and it is installed inside a dug recess. The voids from the outside are filled with soil and compacted. A drainage (pebble, rubble, broken brick) is placed at the bottom of the trench with a layer from 5 to 10 cm, a mixture of peat and coarse river sand in equal proportions is poured on top of a layer of about 20 cm. All are well leveled and laid on top of an 5-centimeter layer of clean river sand, slightly compacted and carefully watered.
Strong wire arches are attached to the sides of the box 2, on which the covering material is fixed and fixed at the bottom of the box so that cold air does not penetrate into the greenhouse.
For the propagation of most fruit crops, cuttings with 2 internodes are used, the lower ends of which are treated with a growth stimulator to accelerate root formation. Cuttings are planted most often according to the 5 × 7 cm scheme, deepening the lower cut by 1,5-2 cm, water and tightly close the greenhouse. Subject to basic conditions, cuttings take root in approximately 6-8 weeks.
Care for wild strawberries: cutting the "mustache", pinning and rooting them to obtain seedlings, harvesting.
Prevention and treatment of diseases, destruction of pests.
JUNE - WORKS IN THE FLOWER
Feeding perennials. Earlier this month, phlox, del-finium, daylily, lilies, rudbeckia, astilbe, feverfew and other root-perennial plants need additional nutrition. As a top dressing, a mixture of infusion of mullein (1: 15) or chicken droppings (1: 25) with the addition of ammonium nitrate (20 g), potassium salt (15 g), superphosphate (20 g) and wood ash (30 g) per bucket of mortar. This amount is enough for 1 m2 flower beds.
Planting tuberous dahlia. Planting pits are 30 × 30 cm in size. The distance between plants should be from 60 to 100 cm. Pits are filled with compost (0,5 buckets) or humus (1 / 4 buckets) mixed with superphosphate (20 g) and ash (3 g. L. .). Before planting, it is well shed with water and a stake about 1,2 m high is installed next to each pit. After that, a tuber with a lump of earth is carefully placed in the pit and placed near the peg. The root neck is buried approximately 5 cm below the soil level.
A pick of biennials sown in May (bell, stem-rose, digitalis, poppy, gypsophila, Turkish clove). When planting in the soil between plants leave a distance of about 30 cm.
When the threat of frost passes, seedlings of heat-loving flower crops are planted.
Planting rooted cuttings of chrysanthemums.
Digging up small bulb crops for propagation and transplantation.
Division and transplantation of irises and primroses after flowering.
Propagation of clematis by cuttings and layering.
Propagation of roses by cuttings.
Protection of flower and ornamental crops from pests and diseases.
In June, do not forget to collect daisies, abudes and viola, as well as perennial primroses on early-flowering daisies. This is a good time to dig up and transplant small-bulb plants. Bulbs of snowdrops before planting are stored in containers, sprinkled with peat or moistened sand. The bulbs of crocuses, white flowers and hazel grouse, on the contrary, are stored in a dry place. At the end of the month, bulbs of hyacinths, daffodils and tulips are dug up - it is important to do this exactly when the leaves begin to dry out, and the covering scales become brownish. They are cleaned of the earth, dried and only after that they are sent for storage.
Florist Polina Viktorovna Belozerova
GARDEN'S CALENDAR - JULY
The middle of summer is a hot season for summer residents in every sense of the word. However, in addition to caring for crops and plantings, pleasant chores await you - picking the first crops. Now it is very important to create favorable conditions for plants through regular watering and top dressing, to protect them from the scorching sun and July rainfall.
JULY - WORKS IN THE GARDEN
Regular watering of vegetable beds with warm (warmed in the sun) water. Refuse cold watering directly from a well or well.
Sowing green crops, perennial vegetables, turnips, daikon, broccoli, spinach. Together with these plants, you can re-sow basil, dill, parsley, leaf lettuce. In late July - early August, you can plant radish and radish of autumn varieties.
Tying, pinching / pinching of tomatoes. If the tomatoes are grown in film greenhouses, they are formed in the 1-2 stalk, and the second stalk is formed from the stepson, located under the first brush. Lower leaves and extra stepchildren are removed, leaving an average of 7 flower brushes on each tomato. Tomatoes in open ground are usually formed into a single stem, periodically removing unnecessary side shoots. Tomatoes of ultra-ripe varieties do not need pinching.
At the end of July, pinch a growth point on tomato bushes so that the fruits have time to ripen before the cold. In addition, tomatoes in a sheltered ground are fed with Xnumx-Xnumx brushes before the formation of ovaries with the nutrient composition: Xnumx L of water + Xnumx g of ammonium nitrate + Xnumx g of superphosphate + Xnumx g of potassium sulfate. Re-dressing is given in the fruiting phase, only now in 2 liters of water are 3 grams of ammonium nitrate and superphosphate and 10 grams of potassium sulfate dissolved.
Thinning vegetables in the garden. Regular weeding.
From 5 to 15 July you can start growing seedlings of cucumbers and tomatoes in the second crop rotation. Thanks to the presence of a winter greenhouse, you can provide yourself with a harvest of fresh vegetables until the cold weather.
Loosening and mulching of soil on the beds.
Harvesting the first harvest. It was in July that cucumbers, squash and squash, early white and cauliflower ripen in the beds. At the same time, you can harvest early potatoes, winter garlic and onions grown from seed to feather.
Fertilizing vegetable crops. If the color of the plants has changed, and the shape of the fruit is deformed - most likely, they are deficient in nutrients and trace elements. In July, cucumbers feed an infusion of mullein with the addition of nitrophoska (40 g per 1 bucket of solution) every week, spending 1 l of top dressing for each bush. Sweet peppers are fed in the middle of summer according to the same pattern as tomatoes. Eggplants at the very beginning of fruiting also “treat” the mullein infusion (1 l per plant). Zucchini at this time of year especially needs potash fertilizers: 50 g per 10 l of water, 1,5 l per each bush. It is advisable to feed the beets before the leaves are closed with mineral fertilizers: 5 g of urea, 8 g of potassium salt and 6 g of superphosphate for each square meter of the bed.
JULY - WORKS IN THE GARDEN
Regular watering and top dressing of fruit and berry crops. To enhance the growth of shoots and to fill the need of plants for nutrients, you can use nitrogen fertilizing: 1 Art. l urea to dissolve in 10 l of water.
You can use rotted cow manure diluted with water 7 times, or a solution of bird droppings diluted with water 15 times. To the bucket of such a solution you need to add 1 Art. l urea, 2 Art. l superphosphate and 200 g wood ash. As an alternative, 10 g of ammonium nitrate, 25 g of superphosphate and 50 g of potassium salt are added to 40 L of a solution of mullein or bird droppings. Feeding trees in the garden is necessary after the rain. In dry weather, top dressing is combined with watering. Experts advise watering garden trees on the principle of "rarely but abundantly." Estimated watering rate - 5 buckets of water on 1 m2 trunk circle.
Installation of supports under the branches of fruiting trees.
Timely removal of root shoots and weeds.
Harvesting green cuttings of sea buckthorn and actinidia.
The formation of two-year-old seedlings of fruit trees.
Harvesting the first harvest.
I do so
In July, garden work will always be found. I take care of grafted plants, heal wounds in trees, establish supports for fruiting tree branches. Be sure to collect the carrion under the apple trees, because it attracts the codling moth.
In the second half of the month I try to create all the necessary conditions so that the wood ripens to frost, I begin to prepare the garden for winter. I stop all feeding with nitrogen at this time. Pinching shoots on young trees.
Until the middle of the month I try to form two-year-old seedlings of fruit trees. To do this, I define 3 or 4 main branches and pinch intermediate ones.
Sergey Vasilievich Voloshin
JULY - WORKS IN THE FLOWER
Top dressing of annual flower crops. At the beginning of the month, you need to carry out the last annual feeding of annuals this season. It is best to use a solution of rotted cow manure (1: 10) or chicken droppings (1: 20) for this. In 10 l of such organic fertilizer, 20 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium sulfate can be added. Water the flower bed at the rate of 0,5 l per plant.
During the formation of buds, gladioluses need additional nutrition. For them, they compose a potassium-phosphorus menu of 10 g of water, 35 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium chloride. Plants are watered at the rate of 1 bucket of nutrient solution for each square meter of flower bed. Clematis is fed twice in July with infusion of mullein (1: 10) or chicken droppings (1: 20) with the addition of mineral fertilizers. 10 g of potassium sulfate and 20 g of superphosphate are added to a bucket of organic fertilizer. For each plant, 3 l of the finished mixture is consumed.
Reproduction of perennials. At the beginning of the month, the time comes for the multiplication of roses, lilacs, phloxes, mock lilies and long-term asters. In the last decade of July, irises are excavated. The yellowed leaves of tulips, hyacinths, and daffodils indicate that the bulbs of these crops are ready for harvesting. At first, experienced gardeners are advised to dig up tulips, a little later - daffodils and hyacinths, but small-bulbous scylls, muscari and crocuses are dug up last. Bulbs extracted from the soil are cleaned, immediately diseased and damaged specimens are discarded, and then dried at a temperature of 25-30 ° C for 3-5 days. After the specified time, the excess flakes are removed, the planting material is sorted by grades and sent for storage.
Removing dried inflorescences from perennials and perennials. The exception is the plants from which the seeds will be collected.
Dive seedlings of biennial flower crops.
Pest protection and disease prevention.
and the house. But only if you want roses to bloom well over the next 10 years, you can cut flowers from them exclusively for the formation of a bush. Flowers located on powerful strong branches must undergo a full flowering cycle - and only after that they can be cut from the bush so that the plants do not waste the supply of nutrients in vain.
If you want to please yourself with a bouquet of gladioli, leave at least 4 lower leaves on each plant. This is necessary for good nutrition of his club-bulbs.
When cutting lilies, it is necessary to leave at least 1 / 3 parts of the shoot.
I do so
In the early days of July, take the time to cut the roses. It has long been noticed that cuttings of climbing, miniature and polyanthus roses, as well as a group of floribunda varieties are best rooted. But the cuttings of tea-hybrid and park roses can cause a lot of trouble.
I cut the cuttings from the middle part of flowering (or recently faded) shoots with a sharp-edged scalpel. It is important that the cut part be with two internodes. I make the upper cut even, backing off 0,5 cm above the kidney, making the lower cut oblique.
After that, I process the cuttings with a root stimulator - for better survival. Then keeping them in a solution of heteroauxin (100 mg per 1 l of water) for 12 hours. Now you can plant the cuttings in a pre-prepared greenhouse. I deepen them by about 2 cm. I plant them according to the 5 × 10 cm scheme. For about a month I have been keeping the temperature in the greenhouse at about 22 degrees and high humidity - not lower than 90%. Frequent spraying of cuttings and regular ventilation of the greenhouse help me to create such a microclimate.
Reference by topic: July at the dacha - what you need to do on the plot, garden and in the garden
GENDER'S CALENDAR - AUGUST
The last summer month is clever of us associated with harvesting and harvesting for the winter. In addition, nobody canceled the work on the beds, in the garden and flower garden - so there is enough for everyone.
AUGUST - WORKS IN THE GARDEN
Harvesting and preparing it for laying for storage. Harvesting vegetables and root crops for processing. Garlic is harvested as soon as the leaves begin to turn yellow. When yellowing and lodging, the onion arrows wait for dry and sunny weather, dig out the bulbs and lay them out to dry in a room with good ventilation. The strong yellowing of cucumber leaves also suggests that it is not worth delaying the collection and preservation of fruits.
Cleaning and disinfection of greenhouses and greenhouses.
Processing vacated plots.
Care for planting in open and protected ground - watering, fertilizing, fertilizing and weeding.
Summer crops of radishes, lettuce and other green crops for cultivation in heated greenhouses. Crops of fast-growing leafy vegetables and siderates.
Pinching greenhouse tomatoes and cucumbers to limit their growth and early ripening of fruits. To accelerate the ripening of tomatoes, pinch the tops on their upper hands and remove the stepsons. It is important to have time to carry out this procedure before August 10. At the same time, tomato seeds are harvested: the largest and most healthy fruits are cut, the seeds are taken out and put in a dry glass dish.
AUGUST - WORKS IN THE GARDEN
In August, summer varieties, pears, late varieties of cherries, currants and gooseberries, as well as mountain ash, early varieties of sea buckthorn and most varieties of cherry plum ripen. If apples of summer varieties do not ripen at the same time, they are harvested in several stages, since it is important to prevent the fruits from overripening on the tree. In addition, experienced gardeners advise you to remove apples from the trees slightly immature - about 5 days before full ripeness. Slightly unripe is worth removing pears - the day after 3 before ripening. In this case, the harvest of pears of summer varieties is harvested in early August, autumn varieties - at the end of the month. Harvest plums and cherries better to collect in the morning, trying to separate the fruits from the branches along with the stem. In late August, they begin to collect the fruits of early varieties of mountain ash and rose hips. When collecting cherry plum, special attention should be paid to varieties that are prone to shedding fruit.
The stump of fruit trees. Check for July vaccinations. Propagation of fruit crops by cuttings. Harvesting and sowing seeds of some trees and shrubs. In the first decade of August, it is necessary to complete the budding of stone fruit and pome crops. Pome seeds are most often inoculated with the T-shaped method, and after 3 weeks they check whether the grafted plants have taken root. At the same time, the eyes grafted in July are examined - the kidney and scutellum will be fresh at the acclimated eyes, and the leaf petiole on the accustomed scutes will be easily separated.
Propagation of blackberries and aronia raspberries with vertical layers. If the laterally branched shoots formed in July have long lateral branches, the plants are bent to the ground and dug them, sprinkling on top with an 10-centimeter layer of fertile soil. Before the onset of cold weather, the layers will have time to take root, and in the spring they can be separated from the mother bush and transplanted to a suitable place.
Planting strawberries. Pruning strawberry mustache. In early August, you can start laying new strawberry plantations. You need to focus on the fact that with an 1 square meter of a garden bed you can get an average of 1,5 kg of berries. As a rule, in such an area no more than 8 strawberry bushes should be “settled”. Poor soils are fertilized before planting (350 g of superphosphate and 100 g of potassium sulfate on 10 mNXX), distributing the fertilizer mixture evenly over the plot or filling it into grooves on the sides of the row. After planting, strawberry bushes are abundantly watered. In the existing berries, after the end of fruiting, mustaches, dried leaves and other plant residues, which can become a hotbed of disease, are removed.
Removing root shoots and raspberry stems The two-year-old stalks are cut under the base immediately after picking the berries, without waiting for the leaves to turn yellow. During pruning, dead and damaged stems are removed.
If you grow raspberries not in rows but in separate bushes, leave no more than 12 healthy stems in each bush. When growing raspberries in rows on one running meter, you need to leave about 25 stems, and they should be at least 10 cm apart.
Preparation of landing pits.
Cleaning and disinfection of fruit storages.
Fight against diseases and pests of the garden.
Sanitary pruning of trees and shrubs.
In August, I take out the rooted green cuttings of gooseberries and currants from the greenhouse and plant them in pre-fertilized soil. At the beginning of the month, I am preparing a site for planting lignified cuttings of white and red currants: I fertilize with humus, dig and level. In the 20 days of the month, I cut lignified cuttings from strong annual shoots of currant, soak them for 2 / 3 for a day in a solution of heteroauxin (200 mg in 1 l of water) and plant them in a prepared place. Ivan Yakovlevich Panteleev, Brest
I do so
In late August, I always deal with raspberries. If you plant seedlings at this time, they will perfectly take root in a new place. By the way, I also use separate shoots of raspberries as seedlings that grew from root offspring in the aisles and rows of old raspberry. I make rows under raspberries at a distance of 2 m from each other. I dig a trench about 60 cm wide and a depth of about 40 cm deep and fill it with fertile soil with compost (10 kg per meter of dug furrow) or manure with peat. Raspberry seedlings are planted at a distance of 50 cm from each other.
AUGUST - WORKS IN THE FLOWER
Cut flowers into bouquets.
Reproduction and transplantation of lilies at the age of 4-5 years. After flowering, the lilies are left alone for 1,5 months, then the stems are cut, leaving a small stump. Bulbs are dug up, cutting roots longer than 15 cm, and soaked for 30 minutes in 0,1% potassium permanganate solution, and then planted in a new place.
Division and landing of rhizome perennials.
Harvesting seeds of faded annuals.
Landing on a permanent place seedlings of biennials and perennial flower crops.
Feeding gladioli and dahlia.
In early August, I divide and plant primrose at the age of 3-4 years. In mid-August, a line of bearded irises, delphinium, asters and daylily comes. I cut the stalk of the plant with secateurs and cut its rhizome into dividers with a sharp knife. For planting, I take only healthy and strong delenki with 3-5 kidneys and disinfect them in a solution of potassium permanganate. Slices are treated with charcoal before planting. In August, I feed gladioli with superphosphate (25 g / m2) and potassium chloride (15 g per m2) In the first days of the month I feed dahlias with superphosphate and potassium salt: 25 g and 15 g for every 5 plants.
Florist Valentina Golnik
GARDEN'S CALENDAR - SEPTEMBER
Since the first autumn month is at the junction of two seasons, most of the work on the site needs to be done in the first half of September. Before the onset of cold weather, you need to complete the main harvest, prepare the fruits of your labor for storage and deal with planting material.
SEPTEMBER - WORKS IN THE GARDEN
Harvesting vegetables, root crops and greens. Bookmark them for storage or processing.
Care for vegetables in the beds. Ripening fruits in greenhouses and greenhouses.
Harvesting spring garlic and planting winter varieties.
Harvesting vegetable seeds.
Digging and disinfecting the soil on vacant beds. Repair and disinfection of greenhouses and greenhouses, working equipment.
In the second half of September, seedlings of cabbage salad are planted in heated greenhouses and parsley is sown.
SEPTEMBER - WORKS IN THE GARDEN
Collection of fruits and berries. In the first half of September, they begin to collect apples of autumn-summer varieties, and at the end of the month winter varieties are harvested.
In the third decade of September, pears are being harvested. In the first weeks of the month they continue to collect mountain ash. In September, you need to finish harvesting the plum.
Removing root growth.
Fertilizing garden crops. After harvesting, the apple, pear and mountain ash are fed with a dry mixture of 3 kg of compost or humus, 10 g of potassium sulfate and 20 g of double superphosphate per 1 square meter of barreled circle. Fertilizers are evenly distributed and planted in the soil or introduced into the holes dug around the periphery of the crown. Kalina, lemongrass, actinidia and other berry bushes are fed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers: 20 g of double superphosphate and potassium salt on 1 m2 Soil. After applying fertilizer, the soil in the near-stem circle is carefully dug up and sprinkled with mulch. After completion of fruiting, raspberries are eliminated from root offspring and shoots of substitution and fed with potassium sulfate: 50 g fertilizer on 1 m2.
Purchase and planting seedlings. Harvesting of planting material. Preparation of landing pits and arrangement of areas for growing.
Pruning trees and shrubs, forming crowns.
Protecting the garden from pests. Disease Prevention After harvesting, fruit trees are sprayed with a urea solution: 500 g per Yul water - for the prevention of scab. In September, hunting belts are removed and destroyed, dried fruits are removed from the branches and the trunks are cleaned of dead bark. Tree trunks need to be whitewashed with a lime mortar mixed with clay or mullein (based on the 2 part of the lime solution + 1 part of the clay or mullein). Fallen foliage under trees and shrubs is raked and burned or sent to compost. Branches and shoots affected by pests are cut and burned.
After harvesting, the trees remove the props from under the branches and treat them with a solution of copper sulfate or nitrate-phen (50 g per 10 l of water).
SEPTEMBER - WORKS IN THE FLOWER
Planting bulbs. Before digging on 1 m2 Soils contribute 250 g of wood ash and mineral fertilizers: 50 g of superphosphate, 40 g of potassium sulfate, 10 g of ammonium nitrate. At the beginning of September, small-bulb crops are planted, adhering to the rule: the smaller the bulb, the less the planting depth. For example: the bulbs of Muscari, Crocus and Scylla are planted to a depth of 8 cm, snowdrops to a depth of 10 cm, white flowers to a depth of 15 cm. Between plantings, maintain a distance from 10 to 15 cm.
In the second half of the month, daffodils are planted, having previously treated the planting material with a solution of any fungicide or 0,1% potassium permanganate solution. Large bulbs are planted to a depth of 15 cm at a distance of 10 cm from each other. Beginning in the second half of September, tulips are planted to a depth equal to three bulb lengths. The distance between plants should be about 8 cm.
Pruning faded perennials. Half-shrub lavender and sage are pruned under the base. Plants blooming in spring try to prune not too low. Bushy perennial phloxes, chrysanthemums and alpine asters are cut close to the ground and immediately fed with compost. In irises and lily nicks, only flower stalks are cut.
Hilling dahlias to a height of 15 to 20 see. This event helps protect vulnerable parts of the plant from frost. In the second half of September, dahlias are cut, dug tubers and dried for 3 days, and then sent for storage in boxes with sand or peat at temperatures from 3 to 8 degrees in a dry room.
Until mid-September, delphinium, astilbe, clematis and gelenium are separated and transplanted. Seedlings of biennial pansies, daisies, mallow, daffodils and Turkish cloves are planted in a permanent place.
At the end of the month, the corms of gladioli are dug up, dried and sent for storage.
Keep the flower bed with clematis clean, loosen the soil and, if necessary, water the plants. At the end of September, the soil around the flowers is treated with 0,2% solution of foundationazole to prevent the development of diseases.
Reference by topic: Land and summer house in September - possible and necessary work
GENDER'S CALENDAR - OCTOBER
Autumn came into its own, and you need to have time to collect a late harvest before the first frost.
Gather the last crop of apples and pears, process or put into storage. Remove spoiled fruits from trees and burn with foliage.
After falling leaves, treat the trees with 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture.
Water-recharge irrigation of trees and shrubs.
Insulate the root system of garden plants with dry leaves and humus.
At the beginning of the month, fruit trees can be planted. The main thing is to catch a few weeks before the frost.
To scare away hares, you can treat the bark of trees with this solution: 300 g of naphthalene + 100 g of vitriol + 2 l of vegetable oil + 3,5 kg of soap + 400 g of turpentine + 10 l of water.
If clutches of leaf beetle and hawthorn are found on plants in the garden, the infected parts are cleaned or cut and burned.
October is also suitable for planting shrubs. Black currant is planted with a slope, deepening into the soil on 8 cm. Gooseberries are planted without a slope and deepened by 6 cm.
In mid-autumn, raspberries are trimmed. This year's shoots are carefully bent to the ground, fixed and covered so that they wintered well.
Currants and gooseberries at the end of October are covered with a layer of about 12 cm and covered with suitable material.
If the bed with strawberries is located on a hill, plants are covered with shavings, sawdust, spruce spruce branches or other covering material with a layer up to 15 cm.
In October, root crops of carrots, beets, radishes for winter storage are harvested.
The last crop of cabbage is harvested - white cabbage, red cabbage and Brussels sprouts.
Winter sowing of vegetables is carried out.
In October, I dig up the horseradish rhizomes and pick out the leeks. I dig out the bulbs, cut off the feathers so that there is a tail about 20 cm long, cut the root lobe and tie the onions in bundles. I store onions in a dry, dark and cool room.
Before the frosts, I dig out the spicy herbs and perennial onions left in the garden, transplant them into pots and bring them into the house - in winter I always have fresh greens.
In the same month I prepare beds for winter sowing of dill, radishes, carrots and parsley. I plant seeds in frozen ground to a depth of 1 cm and sprinkle with pre-prepared soil.
Natalia Pavlovna Voloshina
OCTOBER - WORKS IN THE FLOWER
Asters, heichera, carnations, daylilies and feverfews cut leaves and faded stems low.
Iris leaves are also trimmed, leaving a height of 15 cm.
After the first frosts, begonia tubers are removed for winter storage. Future planting material is inspected and stored in boxes in a cool, dry and well-ventilated area.
It's time to prepare roses for wintering. They spud, buds and tops of shoots.
Astilbe, aster, catchment, gaylardia, gypsophila, delphinium, bellflower, lily of the valley, lily, milkweed, peony, rudbeckia, yarrow, phlox and echinacea cut leaves and stems, leaving 3 cm.
After the first frosts, dahlias are dug up for winter storage. Plants unlearn plants, cut stems at a height of 10 cm, and make a groove around the dahlia. They dig up tubers with a pitchfork, carefully shake them off, wash off the earth and dry them a little. When the tubers are dry, cut small roots and remove damaged areas, and the sections are sprinkled with chopped charcoal.
In October, clematis are removed and trimmed.
Bulbous perennial daffodils, lilies and hyacinths are covered with dry foliage, sawdust or spruce branches to protect against frost.
NOVEMBER - GARDEN'S CALENDAR
The last month of autumn rarely spoils with warm days, however, work on the site can be found even in this inclement time.
Cut the cuttings for spring grafting of fruit crops. Store them in a moist plastic bag in a room with an air temperature of 0 to + 1 ° C. In November, you can stock up on cuttings of apple trees, plums, and other crops for winter vaccination. In this case, they are cleaned in the cellar and covered with wet sawdust.
To get seedlings for vaccinations for next year, you can sow the seeds of apple, pear, plum and cherry.
Before severe frosts, it is necessary to accumulate snow in the garden to protect plants from freezing. Under the trees, the snow is well trampled to protect plants from rodents.
In November, autumn digging of the soil is carried out. At the same time, the clods of the earth are not broken, but left intact to retain snow.
Healthy raspberry stalks after pruning are used to shelter wintering perennials.
To protect trees and shrubs (especially young ones) from rodents, they are wrapped first with old newspapers, and then with ruberoid, oilcloth, dense fabric, old nylon tights, burlap or lutrasil. The main thing is to use a light and breathable non-woven material for this purpose. The binding material is dripped and sprinkled with earth on top.
Collect from the site all diseased and pest-affected plants. Bury them deeper, but it’s better to burn them. It is also necessary to do with rotten fruits.
Feed garden plants: 1 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate in 1 l of water.
Perennials of compact size, poorly tolerating frost, dig and transplant into suitable containers. Move to the basement, cellar or equipped greenhouse. If it is impossible to dig up plants, it is good to insulate them with plastic bags with dry peat, as well as dry leaves and sawdust - this will protect the root system from frost before snow falls.
Whitewash tree trunks, the base of skeletal branches - to protect against rodents and sunburn.
Cover with spruce branches, dry leaves or sawdust plant cuttings grafted in this and last years. Since they are not yet strong enough, they may not survive the winter cold without additional shelter.
Put skeletons and supports under the branches of trees and bushes so that the plants do not break under the weight of snow.
In November, I am cultivating on my site medicinal plants and shrubs: hawthorn, mountain ash, viburnum. Saplings can be taken cultivated, but can be brought from the forest. I dig a small hole about 50 cm deep, put fertilizer into it, then put a seedling and sprinkle it with earth. After planting I water.
Zhanna Igorevna Lazovskaya
If in November we cover raspberry bushes with peat and humus, next year the yield of berries will be more plentiful.
I do so
In slightly frozen ground in November, you can plant seeds of various vegetable crops. Before the onset of winter, they will not have time to germinate, but they will harden well during the winter and become resistant to bad weather. When the spring sun begins to warm and the snow melts, these seeds begin to sprout - and you will have early vegetables and herbs. What can be sown in November? Borago, arugula, parsley, dill and spinach, peas, chard, leeks, carrots and beets, Chinese cabbage, radishes, lettuce, celery and physalis.
Zinaida Romanovna Tychinskaya, Baranovichi
If the winter turned out to be mild with frequent thaws, roses will have to be slightly opened periodically - so that they are ventilated and do not rot. But if you leave the country house until spring, the traditional way of shelter is not suitable, since you will not be able to monitor your roses and timely cover and ventilate them. In this case, I advise the roses to be well spudded, covered with protective material on top or laid on raspberry branches, then put a wooden box and cover it with dry leaves. By the way, this method is also suitable for preserving clematis in the winter.
To save begonia tubers until next year, you need to clean them from the ground and dry well. Then place the roots in a plastic bag with small holes for ventilation and “wrap” it with moist moss, sawdust or peat. Store such bags at 5-10 ° C.
I also want to emphasize that it is very important to periodically check how bulb crops are stored - to ensure that they do not dry out and rot. The optimal conditions for them are temperature around 10 degrees and humidity 80%.
In November, before the snow falls, but after the first frost, it is good to sow the seeds of annuals: cornflower blue, godetia, Ajax delphinium, Iberis, calendula, lobularia, self-poppy, matthiola, reseda, Drummond phlox, chrysanthemum and escholzia. After planting, the seeds are covered with dry soil and mulched with compost.
And in the winter I like to sow the seeds of some perennial plants - alpine asters, catchment, gypsophila, bluebell, daylily, lupine, milkweed, rudbeckia ...
Florist Valentina Golnik
GARDEN'S CALENDAR - DECEMBER
Our ancestors called December “jelly”, which pretty accurately reflected the nature of the first winter month. The main work on the site has been completed by this time, but you should not forget about the garden until spring.
It is important to regularly brush off wet snow from trees and shrubs. If you do not do this, with the advent of frost it will turn into ice, under the weight of which branches can break.
Conduct snow retention in areas with perennial herbaceous plants - for example, in beds with garden strawberries. Fruit trees and shrubs need to be spudded with snow, raking it to the base of the trunk. If the snow cover is thin, you can use snow from the tracks. Particular attention should be paid to cherries and plums.
Seedlings for spring planting, dug in the garden, also can not be ignored. After a snowfall, the snow around them is trampled to create an obstacle for mice. The seedlings themselves are also desirable to spud with snow.
Make sure that winter crops are not under too thick a layer of snow and are not drilled. At the same time, you need to try so that no crust forms on the garden bed.
Periodically clear the roofs of greenhouses from snow. This is necessary in order to relieve the structure, as well as to improve the penetration of sunlight into it.
You should not walk on the lawn until the snow layer reaches a thickness of 10 cm. If you ignore this advice, in the spring you can get a spoiled lawn with brown spots of grass. In addition, you cannot leave ice crust and large snow drifts on top of the lawn.
To protect trees and shrubs from mice, I trample the snow around the trunk, then collect it in a cone-shaped hill and water it with water. Thanks to this icy "shell", small rodents will not be able to get to the bark.
To discourage hares, I prepare a mixture of clay, manure and water with the addition of a small amount of carbolic acid.
In trees of small sizes, as well as conifers, it is advisable to bandage the branches to protect from snowfalls.
Bring the birds - our main insect protectors into the garden.
Build feeders for them and put unsalted lard, seeds, grains or bread crumbs in them.
Periodically check that the beds with plants are well protected from frost and wind. If necessary, additionally insulate the land with snow.
Note which areas were fertilized in the fall, and which fertilizers will need to be applied in the spring.
Read gardening and horticulture magazines, specialized literature, chat online with fellow gardeners - share experiences and gain new knowledge!
In equipped greenhouses in December you can grow onions, parsley and celery.
Revise your work equipment: repair broken tools or purchase new ones to meet the new season “fully armed”.
Collect ash, bird droppings and manure. In the new year, they will be useful for plant nutrition.
DECEMBER - WORKS IN THE FLOWER
If winter turned out to be frosty but snowless, ornamental plants can be covered with sawdust.
December is the right time to distill decorative bulbous plants. Planting material must be strong and healthy. Bulbs are planted in a pot with nutritious soil and sprinkled with a mixture of garden soil, sand and peat. The distance between the bulbs should be about 2 cm.
USEFUL TIPS FOR VEGETABLES
Seasonality of fruits and vegetables
Nature awakens, the sun's rays give us energy and optimism, but the body needs a good portion of vitamins. At this time of the year, doctors recommend eating greens (dill, parsley, lettuce, sorrel, spinach, arugula, green onions), cucumbers, radishes, beets, carrots and cabbage.
Of the fruits, it is worth paying attention to apples and pears.
In the last days of spring and early summer, the diet will help diversify beans, broccoli, kohlrabi, zucchini and eggplant, young potatoes. A little later, pepper, green peas, young beets and corn should appear on the table.
Open the season of strawberries and cherries, and then - raspberries and currants, strawberries and blueberries. From the second half of summer, watermelons, gooseberries and peaches should be consumed more often.
Doctors and gardeners call the queen of the fall a beautiful pumpkin - do not forget to add it to your diet. No less important at this time of the year squash and squash. Harvesting of many vegetable crops begins, so there can be many dishes of vegetables on the table. Autumn pleases us with crops of cranberries, plums, grapes, apples and pears. Autumn is also the time for mushrooms.
In the cold season, we use the fruits of our labor grown in the previous season. We have marinades and pickles, canned goods and preserves ... Root vegetables, apples and pears can also be consumed fresh.
Fruits and vegetables grow on the beds and in the garden, which can and should be eaten all year round. These include pears and apples, turnips, onions and garlic, beans, cabbage, carrots and beets, parsley root, celery.
USEFUL TIPS AND MEMORIES FOR GARDENERS AND GARDENERS
The optimal timing of sowing seeds for seedlings
The age of seedlings at the time of planting in the ground (days)
Estimated time of sowing seeds in Belarus and central Russia
Celery (root and petiole)
Tall tomatoes for indoor use
Zucchini and squash
25 April - 5 May
Tomatoes undersized for open ground
Melon (early varieties)
25 April - 10 May
Watermelon (early varieties)
Germination of vegetable seeds
Minimum germination temperature, ° C
The emergence of seedlings at 20 ° C, days
seeds in 1 g, pcs.
Soil mix options
1. Humus (2 part), peat (1 part), rotted sawdust (0,5 part).
2. Garden soil (1 bucket), ash (0,5 cups), superphosphate (1 tablespoon), urea or potassium sulfate (1 teaspoons).
1. Sod land (1 part), humus (1 part), peat (1 part).
2. Sod land (20 parts), ash (5 parts), lime (1 part), sand (1 part).
3. Peat (12 parts), turf land (4 parts), sand (1 parts).
1. Peat (2 parts), humus (2 parts), rotted sawdust (1 parts). For every 10 liter of such a mixture add 1 a glass of ash and 1 teaspoon. urea, superphosphate and potassium sulfate.
2. Sod land (1 part), compost or humus (1 part). 1 glass of ash, 10 g of potassium sulfate and 20 g of superphosphate are added to the bucket of the mixture.
3. Peat (6 parts), humus (1 part), sawdust (1 part), sand (1 part), mullein (1 part).
4. Sod land (1 part), peat (1 part), humus (1 part), rotted sawdust (1 part).
1. Sod land (1 part), humus (2 part).
2. Peat (2 parts), humus (2 parts).
3. Humus (3 parts), turf land (2 parts).
4. Nutritious peat soil (2 part), turf land (1 part).
5. Peat (4 part), turf land (2 part), humus (1 part), rotted sawdust (1 part).
1. Peat (16 parts), turf land (4 parts), mullein (1 parts). 3 l of river sand, 10 g of ammonium nitrate, 20-30 g of superphosphate, 10-15 g of potassium chloride are added to the bucket of the mixture.
2. Peat (3 parts), sawdust (1 parts), mullein (0,5 parts). 3 l of river sand, 10 g of ammonium nitrate, 20-30 g of superphosphate, 10-15 g of potassium chloride are added to the bucket of the mixture.
3. Humus (1 part), peat (1 part), turf land (1 part), rotted sawdust (1 part). 1,5 glasses of ash, 3 Art. l superphosphate, 1 Art. l potassium sulfate and 1 tsp urea.
Approximate dates for growing seedlings of various crops
Dates of growing seedlings (age)
Sprouting time under optimal conditions
Onions and leeks
for open ground: 20-25 days
for greenhouse cultivation: 30-35 days
tall: 50-60 days mid-height: 50-55 days stam: 40-45 days
Recommended exposure time for seedlings of various crops
Estimated Duration (hours)
14-16 before the advent of the 4-th true leaflet;
10-12 after the advent of the 4-th true leaflet
14-16 before the advent of the 4-th true leaflet;
10-12 after the advent of the 4-th true leaflet
Does not need additional lighting
16-18 before the advent of the 2-th true leaflet;
14-16 before the advent of the 4-th true leaflet;
10-12 after the advent of the 4-th true leaflet
Do not need additional lighting
Do not need additional lighting
10-12 for one and a half months after the emergence of seedlings; does not need further clarification
Watermelons and melons
The number of irrigations during the growing season
2 days after planting; thereafter through 8-10 days
When planting seedlings; a week after the first watering; during the formation of the rosette of leaves (3-5-th watering); during the curling season of the head (6-8-th watering); in the stage of technical maturity of the head (9-10-th watering)
After breaking through; during the formation and growth of root crops (2-5-th watering)
In the phase of 2-3 leaflets (1-th watering); in the budding phase (2-3-th watering); during flowering (4-5-th watering); at the beginning of fruiting (6-7-th watering)
The number of irrigations during the growing season
In the phase of 2-3 leaflets (1-th watering); in the budding phase (2-3-th watering); during flowering
(4-5-th watering); at the beginning of fruiting (6-7-th watering)
Onions (seeded in the ground)
When breaking through (1-th watering);
a week after the first watering; during the second breakthrough (3-th watering); during the period of growth and formation of bulbs (4-9-th watering)
When planting seedlings; in the budding phase; during flowering (3-4-th watering); at the beginning of fruit formation; during ripening and harvesting of fruits (6-8-th watering)
After breaking through; in the budding phase; during flowering (3-4-th watering); in the fruiting phase; at the beginning of ripening and harvesting of fruits (6-7-th watering)
Pepper and eggplant
When planting seedlings; in the budding phase, during the flowering period (3-5-th watering); in the phase of fruit formation (6-7-th watering); at the beginning of fruiting (8-10-th watering)
Potato spring planting
In the budding phase; during flowering; during tuberization (3-4-th watering)
VEGETABLE COMPATIBILITY TABLE