"NORTHERN" MAGNOLIA - TYPES AND VARIETIES, LANDING AND CARE
Blooming magnolias in the middle lane - is this possible? Yes, and yes again! These plants, unusually beautiful in landscape compositions, can be problem-free here as well.
But subject to a conscious selection of species and varieties, as well as competent planting, taking into account the characteristics of your site.
Remember, luxurious evergreen magnolias (usually related to the species Magnolia grandiflorum (Magnolia grandiflora) decorating the streets of southern cities - not for us! Like most varieties, the most common in Europe Magnolia soulangea (Magnolia soulangeana). Although from time to time some gardeners report that they have their winters and blooms, there are many more negative experiences. And a pair of flowers on a clearly suffering plant is not the result that I would like to see. Caution must be taken to Magnolia liliflora (Magnolia liliflora), usually represented by Nigra.
WHICH SAME MAGNOLIA TO CHOOSE FOR A COLD CLIMATE?
The first company "northerners" - Magnolia kobus ( Magnolia kobus), star magnolia (Magnolia stellata), Lebner magnolia (Magnolia loebnerii - a natural hybrid of the two previous ones) and numerous varieties based on them. Their flowers are white or light pink, with a diameter of 10-15 cm. These magnolias are inexpensive, because they propagate well by cuttings and layering. Great choice for beginners! Proven varieties - Royal Star, Leonard Messel, Merrill, Wild Cat and etc.
The second is the so-called yellow magnolias, or varieties derived from the long-pointed Magnolia (Magnolia acuminata). By itself, it is not too spectacular, but it gives offspring excellent winter hardiness and color of flowers. And now hybrids have appeared even with orange-chewing, salmon and coral shades of petals! True, they have not yet been tested in the middle lane. They have been living in gardens near Moscow for 10 years or more, they do not freeze, and magnolias bloom regularly: Daphne, Gold Star, Elisabeth, Lois, Solar Flair, Sunsation, Sun Spire, Yellow Bird.
And we also have good hybrids growing: Pinkie, Heaven Scent, Wada's Memoryand late flowering Magnolia Siebold.
All these magnolias had cases of freezing, and even a small one, only in those years when the usual apple trees and pears suffered. True, 100% of flower buds are not always preserved (and this is not only a matter of frost!), But the remaining ones are usually enough.
PLACE IN THE GARDEN
It is not necessary to expect that even the most unpretentious magnolia will grow well in a field open to all winds. A warm place near the south wall of the house is also not the best choice: the temperature drops there are too sharp, and the plant does not like it when they clean the tracks from snow under it, which increases the freezing of soil and roots.
Magnolia feels better in places protected from the wind and the scorching sun with relatively high soil and air humidity. It is good if the soil there is loose, sour (pH 5,5), covered with mulch or planted with non-aggressive perennials, for example, ground covercrops.
Plant a plant only at the beginning of the season - from late April to June. "Sleeping" seedlings with unopened buds can be planted as soon as the ground thaws.
And if leaves, frosts and even just windy weather have already begun to blossom, they can ruin them. The loss of part of the leaves and buds will lead to a delay in the vegetation, and the plant will not be able to properly prepare for the first, most responsible wintering. I know from experience that in this case it is better to keep magnolia (in a pot) until warm in a cold greenhouse or on a bright veranda. Then - for several days in the shade and only then plant.
OUTDOOR MAGNOLIA - LANDING AND CARE
The planting pit should be wide rather than deep (the size depends on the type of magnolia and soil in the garden). Leaf humus or rotted compost, peat and some wood ash are all that can be added to garden soil. No fresh manure or mineral water in the pit! Any overfeeding will result in a drop in winter hardiness.
It is better to annually (from the third year) carry out 1-2 fertilizing with complex mineral fertilizers - in May-June and one (phosphorus-potash) - in August-September (according to instructions). Although with the regular addition of organic mulch to the trunk circle, you can do without additional “infusions”.
Taking a seedling from a pot, you need to slightly straighten the roots, then dip them into the solution of any root stimulant. Plant strictly at the same depth as it grew, without deepening the root neck.
In the first years of life, it is important to keep the soil moist, and the trunk circle with mulched crushed bark, wood chips, straw and other plant waste with medium or low nitrogen content.
For the winter, small plants with flexible trunks are useful to bend and cover with non-woven material on rigid frames. Well-established magnolias do not need shelter.
They do not like pruning, except for a weak formation at a young age.
The magnolia in the garden should be the queen, dominate, attract everyone's attention. Plant her in a prominent place.
It is not desirable to have nearby plants that are equal to magnolia in rank (large and attractive). The environment should only emphasize its supremacy and form a single composition.
For example, nearby you can plant Japanese spirea (Golden Princesses, Gold Flame), mock gnome, rhododendrons with dense low crowns, open or spherical conifers (horizontal juniper, microbiota, Teddy. Danica). From perennials: frankincense, stonecrop prominent, hosts, euphorbia multiflorous, fescue, tenacious, and loosestrife monetized. Borders can be formed from higher plants, and ground covers should be planted with wide strips of different configurations.
MAGNOLIA LANDING AND CARE - VIDEO
See also: Magnolia - planting and care
MAGNESIUM IN THE MIDDLE STRIP - VIDEO
© Author: Elena KOZHINA, collector of plants, Moscow. Author photo
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