Recent Comments gardeners and gardeners:

  • OOO "Sad" on Cultivation of sea-buckthorn: pollination, male and female plantsYes, sea buckthorn can be propagated by lignified cuttings, but only taking into account some features. In addition, it must be borne in mind that sea buckthorn cuttings are rooted worse. Only strong annual growths with a diameter of about 5 mm are suitable for propagation. Remember that thin fouling shoots and the apical part practically do not root. Harvest cuttings in winter, they should be 15-centimeter long. Do not forget to mark the top and bottom of the handle so as not to confuse when planting. Naturally, store propagated material in the cold - a snowdrift, a refrigerator. The best planting period is early spring, but only at the time when the soil is completely thawed, besides it should be fertile and loose. Change the water (temperature from 2 ° to 3 °) daily. Sea buckthorn can also be used as a stock, but again, taking into account biological features. Vaccinations will have to be done only on annual growths. Annual seedlings themselves are unlikely to be suitable because of their small size, and on two-year-old wood, sea buckthorn is not well established. This shortcoming can be corrected by cutting the seedlings in the spring and leaving a stump 4-5 cm high. When shoots begin to grow from it, carefully remove all but one of the strongest. In the spring of next year, it will already be possible to get vaccinated on this escape. Keep in mind that not all vaccination methods are suitable for sea buckthorn, because its wood is fragile and loose. The most appropriate vaccination is the butt, or improved copulation. N. ALEKSEEVA, agronomist
  • N. Ladynin, Saratov on Cultivation of sea-buckthorn: pollination, male and female plantsIn my garden grows 2 sea buckthorn of different varieties, both bear fruit. Is it possible to propagate sea buckthorn, like blackcurrant, with lignified cuttings? And is it possible to use seedlings as stocks for grafting cultivars, as we do with an apple tree?
  • OOO "Sad" on If APPLES are sick during storage ...If you do not store apples in a city apartment, but in a country house, in a specially equipped room, do not forget to visit there with an audit. Remember that for many varieties the optimum storage temperature is -0-3 °, relative humidity is 85-90%. At minus 2 ° the apples begin to freeze, therefore, in anticipation of severe cold weather, insulate the room, if necessary, tightly close all hatches and outlets. If necessary, use electric heating, but strictly follow safety instructions. However, apples are uncomfortable in a warm room. They quickly overripe, and with excessive dryness wither. To lower the temperature, gently ventilate the store, try not to allow condensation to form on the fruit. By the way, high humidity is one of the main causes of decay of fruits and the appearance of an unpleasant aftertaste. Therefore, carefully check the stored fruits. Remove rotten immediately, and use the browned ones for compotes and jam.
  • L. Penkina, Leningrad Region on If APPLES are sick during storage ...For the first time we are going to store crops in the country. Let's start with the apples. A little scary, because we are there very rarely in winter. Advise how to keep a crop.
  • Alina GOREVA, Tver on Clopogon (tsimicifuga) - useful properties, depending on the speciesIt is in the fall that it becomes truly beautiful. Already in September, throws out its graceful candles, attracting attention. Black cohosh grows in our garden for 8 years. The first years, while the root system was strengthening, sometimes it caused alarm - either the candles will not bloom, then the leaves will dry out. Now it grows in a place where the sun only happens in the morning. The soil is fertile, moisture-resistant, well-cultivated. For all these years, we divided it once. Black cohosh grow slowly. And only now were they able to appreciate the beauty of the plant at its true worth - a tall compact bush with chic strongly dissected leaves, over which large inflorescences rise. Unpretentious and winter-hardy, decorates the garden at the end of the season. koi so few flowering plants.
  • Zhanna LAPSHINA, Altai Republic. on Plant acidic (photo): care, useful properties and recipes“Hare cabbage” in the garden The sour acid got its name due to the taste of the leaves. The Latin "name" of this plant is oxalis, which translates as "sour". 11o now I am attracted not by his taste, but by his appearance. Initially, oxalis grew in the house, decorating the windowsill with “butterfly” leaves. But once, in a friend’s garden, I saw a purple mop with numerous pink flowers. Since then, she began to plant this flower in the summer in flowerbeds and flowerpots. The reason is wintering. The fact is that under Siberian conditions, oxalis tubers cannot tolerate harsh winters and die. To preserve the plant, I dig up tubers along with the top layer of the earth, plant a part in a pot and put it on the window, and send the rest for wintering under the floor. Once I tried to keep the tubers without land, but in my "store" it is dry, and most of them have dried. In spring - into the garden. With the onset of spring, I check their condition and plant them in flower pots and flower beds. This year I chose the largest planter - 20-liter old basin. The roots of the plant are superficial; it makes no sense to fill the entire container with earth. There must be large openings for water drainage. There is a large crack in the pelvis, and water does not accumulate in it. But you need a good drainage layer. I poured coarse gravel onto the 1 / 4 tanks, then a layer of sawdust and only then the ground. After a month and a half, the sorrel acquired a chic “hair”. Care advice The main thing is timely watering. If oxalis does not have enough moisture, the leaves become sluggish, as if they are compressed, the stems hang down along the edges of the pots. It is only necessary to shed the soil well, literally before our eyes the plant takes its former form. But the “butterflies” can take shape both with the onset of darkness and in rainy weather. This is his peculiarity.
  • Vladimir GEORGENSON, Moscow on Types of crocuses and group varieties (photo)Autumn crocusThis handsome is no worse than spring! It blooms from September to October. The flowers of some varieties are even fragrant. But the leaves develop only in the spring. Plants are unpretentious and resistant to disease. They like a sunny place or partial shade in autumn and spring, but in summer it is better to shade them. The soil needs water permeable without lime. Species of autumn crocuses less than spring. I know K. beautiful (Crocus speciosus), which is not only beautiful, but also sown, K. sowing, or cultivated saffron (C. sativus), sensitive to cold, K. banatsky (C. Banaticus). About planting Before planting (in July) the soil is loosened to a depth of 15-20 cm. I add leaf humus or compost in which the leaves predominate. At a distance of 10-15 cm from each other, I dig holes, pour sand into each layer with an 2,5 cm layer and mix it with the soil. I plant bulbs, fall asleep and water once. In autumn, if the weather is dry, I water it as soon as it begins to germinate. I mulch the plantings with crushed bark (you can use straw). Tips from personal experience When buying autumn crocuses, do not confuse them with colchicum autumn (Colchicum autumnale). Do not take soft bulbs, with traces of mold or sprouting. In spring, crocus leaves grow until they get enough sunlight. Do not cut (they will die themselves) and do not bind them, this weakens the bulbs and reduces the productivity of flowering. Flowers of autumn crocuses without foliage will be successfully emphasized by a flower bed with evergreen ground cover plants. In rock gardens, they look nice between herbs: cesleria, gray fescue or blue lightning. You can get a beautiful composition if you plant crocus among shrubs with golden foliage.
  • Elena KOVALEVSKAYA on Korean Chrysanthemum - planting and care. Varieties and their photosI love garden flowers, gave them a large area of ​​their site. But among many species and varieties I have especially tender feelings for chrysanthemum. Not a single flower can compare with it in terms of abundance and longitude of flowering! I grow Korean, potted, large-flowered and multiflora. Each species requires its own approach. Korean chrysanthemums winter well, but in recent years and others have shown resistance to wintering in open ground. Preferences Plants are not demanding on soil. I have clay soil, they grow well. In spring, the bushes should be fed with nitrogen fertilizer (calcium nitrate, urea according to the instructions), in the fall - with potassium phosphate. In hot, dry weather, chrysanthemum needs moderate hydration. Water carefully under the bush, trying not to fall on the leaves. I don’t cover the landing for the winter. Cuttings of chrysanthemums and divide the uterine bush in the spring. NOTICE Large-flowered chrysanthemums can be left to grow as is, without cutting, then you will get a bush with many flowers, but the baskets will be small in diameter. These often adorn flower beds of summer residents. But if you leave 3-5 of the main branches on the plant, removing stepchildren and other buds, we will get a powerful central stem on which one huge flower will blossom. They are used to create chic bouquets.
  • Tatyana BLAGODUSHKO, Lebedyan, Lipetsk Region on Astrantia (photo) outdoor planting and careAstrantia in our gardens is not yet as popular as, for example, in the West. Although the plant is unpretentious, it is able to decorate the garden with bright flowers, stars all summer. Perennial reaches a height of just over half a meter, in breadth - 40-50 cm. For flowering to be more magnificent, it is worth cutting off the faded baskets. From observations In my garden, several types of astrantia grow. I noticed that the beauties with flowers of saturated colors and ordinary green leaves prefer illuminated areas of the garden and good watering during a drought. But the variegated species grows well in partial shade and loves moderate soil moisture. Prefer slightly acidic soils. Love spring dressing. (I bring in urea or complex mineral fertilizers according to the instructions). They are rarely affected by diseases and pests. Frost resistant. Propagated by dividing the bush in August-September. Delenki planted in garden soil take root well. Astrantia is suitable for cutting and looks great in dry compositions (winter bouquets).
  • Svetlana YANKOVSKAYA, Kodyma on New varieties of marigolds, petunias, hippies and other flowersIpomoea in an embrace with a fence. This year I planted a morning glory on the south side of the fence. And now in September I still admire her. Of course, when growing plants in the open sun, there are some features. The fact is that by noon his buds are closed. Therefore, if you want to achieve abundant flowering, it is advisable to choose a partial shade for the vine. It must be protected from winds and drafts, because the shoots and flowers of the plant are fragile. Ipomoea seeds I once sowed before winter. Since then, the beauty has been sown by herself. I will give her a place where she does not clog the cultural plantings. For example, on the lawn. I remove the layer of sod, dig up the soil and season with biohumus. In the center of the developed area, I install a pyramidal trellis and sow seeds around it. By the way, now is the right time to collect them. Instead of wilted buds, brown boxes appear. They will soon dry out and slightly open. I pour the seeds from the box immediately into the bag. Their germination is maintained for three years.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Astra Ageratum - cultivation, planting and careAgeratum hibernates in the loggia. One of the best summers for the autumn garden is the Ageratum. Translated from Latin, the name means "ageless." And his plant got it not only because it blooms from June until frost. And also because the flowers throughout the season retain the brightness and intensity of color. Ageratum loves light and warmth. In this case, neither the wind nor the rain are not afraid of him. The handsome man prefers non-acidic fertile loams, does not tolerate moist and stony soils. Responsive to any fertilizer in reasonable doses other than fresh manure. Ageratum is traditionally grown from seeds, sowing them in seedlings in March. But I do otherwise. In the autumn I select the strongest and most beautiful bush. I dig it out with a lump of earth and transfer it into a pot. I store it in an insulated loggia, periodically water it a little. After flowering, I cut the shoots into stumps according to 5 cm. In February, when daylight begins to increase, the plant starts growing. In March, I cut off young branches on cuttings from the mother liquor. They quickly root in moist vermiculite at a temperature of + 18-20 degrees. I plant them in the garden when the return frosts take place, at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other. Yekaterina BABUROVA
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Pyrethrum (photo) planting, care and preparation of powderThe second wave of fever With white navyavniki no luck - the pest, no matter how I fought it, spoils the stems and leaves. Once sowed under the winter seeds of yellow chamomile and pink feverfew. Only the last one rose in the spring. First, a lush rosette of openwork leaves formed, and in June large buds on high peduncles blossomed with bright-pink petals. And most importantly - there were no aphids on the plant! I cut the faded buds. The bush was fed with a solution of liquid biohumus (1 tablespoon per watering can). At the end of summer, the feverfew pleased with a new flowering wave, which lasted about three weeks. I cut the dried buds into seeds. I will sow them before winter so that next season there will be more bright colors in the autumn garden.
  • OOO "Sad" on Cosmee (photo) description of varieties of care and cultivationSvetlana, your observations are priceless. I will supplement them with my experience. Thaws occur in the middle lane in winter. Seeds can rot. What to do? You can sow cosmea in the greenhouse, and in the spring to transplant shoots with a lump of earth into open ground. Another caveat: the double-feathered cosmea blooms profusely only in the sun. If the land is fertile, let your girlfriend sow a sulphurous yellow cosmea in spring. It is more demanding on the composition of the soil, while tolerating light shading. Tatyana CHEREPKO, landscape designer
  • Svetlana KUZINA, Vitebsk on Cosmee (photo) description of varieties of care and cultivationWhy does the cosmea not bloom? A neighbor complains that her beloved cosmea twice-cirrus does not want to grow at all. Despite the fact that in my area the plant behaves differently: it is sown anywhere and blooms profusely. When I looked at my friend to visit, I realized what was the matter, and made conclusions. Do not overfeed! The neighbor has a flower bed with dark, moist, nutritious soil, seasoned with fresh manure since spring. Well, if such a kosmey will fatten, increasing green mass. In the worst case, fresh organics will burn the roots of young seedlings, they will turn yellow and die. In my garden, the flower is sown in dry places, where fertilizer has not been applied for a long time. Better - winter sowing. A friend sows seeds for seedlings in April. Then, in early June, planted bushes in a row. They seem to take root pretty well, but they suspend growth, which means they postpone flowering. If it is cold at the beginning of September, then seedling kosmey may not bloom at all. In this matter, I listen to nature. After flowering, the plant itself "scatters" seeds that winter well. In the spring of them strong bushy shoots are obtained. Therefore, I sow seeds before winter. Only in no case do I sprinkle with earth, but I lightly clap my palm so that they do not fly away from the wind. I cover with a fir foot.
  • OOO "Sad" on Lavender (photo) varieties and species, planting and flower care- In your situation, Larisa, I found two errors at once. Firstly, sage and lavender do not need to be cut so short for the winter. Secondly, sprinkling these plants with leaves is also risky: it can get wet during the thaw and cause decay of the stumps. Theoretically, sage is grown in one place until 10 years. In practice, this period is two to three times shorter. The fact is that the aboveground part (especially adult bushes) freezes during winters with little snow. As a result, in spring the plant appears in the form of dry shoots with a bare center. And before the onset of sustained heat, you will not understand whether the pet has wintered well. If successful, only in the middle or end of May shoots with green leaves appear around the bald spot. I then dig them out with a lump of earth and transplant them to a new place. Young bushes build up a good green mass during the season. I don’t cut them in the fall. After the ground freezes, I put a couple of greenhouse arms over the plantings and cover it with a spanbond. In spring, as soon as the snow melts, I remove the arcs and shorten the shoots by one third. This is a sanitary haircut. In the second year in mid-October, I renew sage with a cut at 10 cm from the soil surface. But for the winter I do not cover, but mulch the root system with dry peat. As for lavender, I advise you not to disturb it with serious pruning in the fall. Remove dry flower stalks and tie the shoots so that no snow gets inside. Mulch the root zone abundantly with needles or peat. Above the connected bush for reliability, you can also install arcs with spanbond. Another option is to throw more snow on the plant in winter. BTW Not in every region lavender survives in winter. In the fall, the bush can be reloaded into a pot and left in the basement. Or pick a replacement plant. For example, hyssop. It winters well without shelter and does not require autumn pruning. In the spring, it is advisable to cut the bushes more often for splendor. Andrey SHACHNEV, biologist, St. Petersburg
  • Larisa Mironchenko, Gatchina on Lavender (photo) varieties and species, planting and flower careThis year, sage and lavender have disappeared. Perhaps the previous fall pruning of shoots to soil level is to blame? Although I protected the rhizome from severe frosts, sprinkling hemp with dry foliage.
  • OOO "Sad" on Nymphaeus (photo) landing- Water lilies, or nymphaea, rather unpretentious plants. They successfully winter in the conditions of a film garden pond, even at a depth of 50-60 cm from the surface of the water. True, in winter they should be protected with snow, which is raked and thrown onto a pond up to 1,5 m high. But if you do not want to take risks, there are several ways to store them outside the pond. To do this, in late autumn, you need to remove the container from the water and arrange a dry winter for the water lily. Dig a hole in the garden with a depth of 50 cm and put a container with a nympha there. Cover, for example, with cardboard and cover with earth. In the spring you will take her out of the shelter and - back to the pond. Put a pot of soil and plant on a large piece of film, cut the leaves together with the stalks, leaving only the rudiments, and cover the growth point with sphagnum moss. Raise the corners of the film up and tie them with twine. On top of the film, you need to make several holes for air access. This will result in a moist chamber in which the water lily wintered. It must be sent to the basement for storage. Wash the rhizome from the soil, cut off all the roots (free below) and leaves with petioles. Then lay in a plastic container with wet moss or sawdust and put it in the basement. You can organize a “wet” wintering: put the container with the nymphaeum in a spacious container with water, keep it in the basement. Adult leaves are pruned.
  • Anastasia Kruglikova on Nymphaeus (photo) landingFor the first time this season, she grew a nymphaeum, and it even blossomed! But I did not immediately think about wintering, now I understand that with the depth of my pond in 50 cm, it will die. What to do?
  • OOO "Sad" on Chubushniki - species and varieties: photo, name and description- Chubushnik is naturally shade-tolerant, undemanding to soil fertility, drought tolerant. At the same time, it stretches out in the shade and blooms poorly, and on barren, dry soils, bushes and flowers become smaller. Medium and light loamy, rich in humus and provided with moisture in the soil are optimal. Place - open or slight partial shade. For heat-loving varieties, it is advisable to choose protected corners with light soil and good drainage. Planting Chubushniki with open roots are planted from 10 September to 10 October - they take root well at this time. Planting mixture is prepared from sheet soil, humus and sand (3: 2: 1). Drainage - crushed stone and sand with a layer of 15 cm. Landing depth - 50-60 cm, the root neck should be at ground level, more deepened can rot. Pruning When planting a mock-up, it is necessary to prune weak growths and shorten the main branches to a strong kidney (or a couple of buds). Next year, several strong growths are formed on the bush in the lower part of the crown and many lateral branches on the main stems. It is necessary to cut off all weak or incorrectly located shoots so that the crown is symmetrical. A year later, in June, the bush will bloom at last year’s growth. At the end of flowering, strong shoots form from the base of the plant. In July (and so annually), it is necessary to cut off the faded branches to the powerful growths below and remove all the weak ones. In October, strong young growths grow to 1 m, on which side branches will form, which will bloom next year. Svetlana KAZAROVA, dendrologist BS MSU, Moscow
  • Vladislava Czech on Chubushniki - species and varieties: photo, name and descriptionI plan to land a mocker. They told me - he is unpretentious. Is it so? What else is important to know?
  • OOO "Sad" on Large-leaved hydrangeas (photo) planting and care in the suburbs- Tree-like and panicled hydrangeas with a closed root system can be bought and planted in open ground throughout the growing season, until about October, a month before a stable minus temperature. This is their advantage in contrast to seedlings with an open root system. But if you want to transplant adult plants, then do it better in the spring, they take root better. When planting a seedling, we fill the planting hole with a prepared mixture of turf soil, garden compost or humus, peat and river sand in the ratio 2: 2: 2: 1, with the addition of nutrients: 2 tablespoon potassium sulfate or 50 g superphosphate. You can also make fertilizers to increase the acidity of the soil, for example, ammonium sulfate or potassium sulfate (according to instructions). But keep in mind that a single acidification of the soil will not allow you to get the desired pH value, you must periodically repeat the acidification procedure. To do this, it is enough 1 -2 once a month to water hydrangea with acidified water or use special preparations, such as FitoKislinka (according to instructions). Maria KALINKINA, collector, Khimki.
  • Margarita Ivuleva, Balashikha on Large-leaved hydrangeas (photo) planting and care in the suburbsI bought several seedlings of panicle and tree hydrangea in a container at the exhibition. Is it possible to transplant them now in open ground or is it better to wait until spring? And how to do it right?
  • Irina GORODKO, St. Petersburg. on Cultivation of the vasilist - varieties and species, reproductionThese spectacular, graceful plants look impressive in the garden. Inflorescences stand for a long time in a cut, of which I make winter bouquets or compositions with twigs of cornflower. Vasilists are often divided in the fall. To do this, "dig out" the family, cut and plant. I sow seeds too in the fall, and in the spring shoots dive. In the second year, the plants bloom, and I plant them in a permanent place where they grow well for 5-6 years. Garden Care Plants love moist, rich soil and partial shade. Then the flowering is long, and the leaves remain decorative for a long time. In the sun, the color of the inflorescences, especially in dry weather, pales. With a lack of moisture, the floral charm of the aroma disappears. In order to preserve the decorativeness of the bush until late autumn, I immediately cut off the faded inflorescences, preventing the seeds from forming. Trees are beautiful in groups and in a single planting. For cultivation in flower beds, the most suitable are the Basilica Thalictrum aquilegifolium, it is up to 1 m high, and Delaway (T. delavayi) is up to 2 m. The first blooms in May, the second in August. V. gray (T. glaucum), unlike the previous two, - with a surprise. After flowering and seed formation, it dies, and new rosettes appear in its place. In May, at the base of a flowering plant, daughter buds develop with their root system. And in the spring of next year, young shoots grow from them. The amount of these kidneys depends on the care. Despite the fact that the bush consists of individual plants, it is dense, compact and looks like one multi-stem.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Tulips - an overview of interesting varieties and formsThis year I was pleased with the multi-flowered tulip Antoinette. Well, a very interesting sort of chameleon, changing color from yellow to raspberry. Up to six buds bloom on one stalk - a whole bunch! The plant is strong, up to 45 cm high, tolerates windy weather, can grow in partial shade. Having planted multi-flowered tulips once, you don’t want to abandon them, although the handsome men are quite capricious. Bouquet varieties need fertile soil, regular watering and three times feeding with full mineral fertilizer. The first - on melting snow, then - when buds appear (on moist soil). During active flowering, it would be nice to water the tulips with a solution of potassium monophosphate (1 tablespoon / 10 liters of water). I delete the drying flowers, but I do not touch the stem. When the aboveground part turns yellow, I dig out the bulbs and keep them warm for the first month. Then gradually lower the temperature to + 10-15 degrees. There are neat tulips, always equally blooming. And I love the unpredictable! Every morning, waking up, I immediately run to them to see: what are they today, what will surprise them? One of these original varieties is the Green Wave. In the sun, the petals of the plant are painted in warmer colors, they have more yellow. A partial shade is dominated by a cool green tint. The beautiful blooms late, but for a long time. He has a sturdy flower stalk. The fringed Cumins tulip fascinates with large flowers up to 12 cm in diameter. Its violet-purple petals are decorated with a white border. I acquired this variety for a long time, and although it was not cheap, I never regretted it. Depending on the amount of light falling on the flower, it changes color from dark crimson to deep violet. Cumins is also suitable for distillation. But my experience has shown that this is a laborious process - fuss a lot, and the flowering is sparse. I'd rather admire the tulips in the country.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Parrot tulips (photo), planting and careI plant the bulbs, as it is now fashionable, in special baskets. I put the container on the table (so you can not bend to the hole) and cover the trellised bottom with a newspaper so that the earth does not spill out. Then I pour some garden soil into the basket and lay out the bulbs. I lower the finished “composition” into the landing pit, the bottom of which is pre-drained with coarse sand. I sprinkle a container with tulips on the ground. Done! Planting is not watered. So my bulbs winter in these baskets. In the spring, meltwater softens the newsprint and gives the roots freedom. In May I admire the magnificent flowering! And when the tulips bloom and the foliage turns yellow, I dig them up and put them in containers for the fence to ripen. In an empty seat, I plant annual seedlings.
  • Valentina SVIRIDENKO, d. Marishkino, Voskresensky district, Moscow region on Acidanter (photo) planting and careAcidanterus is rarely seen in gardens. But the flower is able to win the heart of not only ordinary lovers, but also experts highly skilled in design art. This is a perennial herbaceous plant whose corms are dug up and stored in suitable conditions in the fall. Nursing acacidanthera is in many ways similar to the agricultural technology of gladioli. But unlike them, the charming lady blooms later. Everything is beautiful in her: an erect stem above a meter, graceful narrow leaves, a snow-white flower with purple splashes in the center. The perfection of the flower emphasizes the exquisite aroma. This year, the azccanthera bloomed early - in July, although usually the flowering period falls in mid-August. I was struck by the fact that after prolonged rains and a squally wind that broke even branches of trees, the plant survived: not a single petal circled. Digging and storage At the end of September, when frost destroys the aerial part of the flower, I dig out the bulbs with children and wash them with clean water under a hose stream. Then I dip it in a strong solution of potassium permanganate (for disinfection from viruses) and dry it in the house at room temperature. In the future, I store the bulbs on a pallet in a closed cabinet on a cool floor. In the winter I periodically check tubers to prevent drying out or decay. In the spring, as soon as the soil warms up well, I plant them in open ground.
  • Nadezhda LYSYUTINA, Bryansk region on Flowers with double flowers - photo, name and descriptionWhen I found out about the existence of terry daisies, I immediately started looking for them for sale. In a flower shop I got a bag with seeds and a colorful picture of a beautiful woman with a lush “hairdo”. I couldn’t resist! The first experiment I sowed seeds in the spring on a bed with loose soil. The shoots were friendly, but very thin. Along with flowering, disappointment came to me - all the flowers were simple and small. Do not pull them out, left to grow. And these frail "Roma-hee" were persistent, giving plenty of self-seeding. Still growing like a weed, it is necessary to remove the peduncles immediately after flowering. He who seeks will find. Just a couple of years ago, I met with the daisy Fiona. I bought a blossoming delenka in the market so as not to fall into trouble again. My flower garden has a slight slope. I chose a place for a brand new one higher, sunny. The soil in the garden is loamy, so it added a little sand, complex mineral fertilizer and rotted compost to it. To prevent the plant from sagging, it was watered well. The flower stalk removed and sprinkled the seedling with the Epina solution (according to the instructions). Fiona quickly adapted and grew. Care In the fall, she cut the stem and, with the advent of frost, threw cut marigolds on top. Wintered chamomile perfectly. In the spring I started cleaning the flower garden very early, since there are a lot of primroses. She took off her shelter and Fiona, loosened the ground. In the first season, the beauty gave me a new rosette, and in early July I was pleased with two large, densely-popped flowers. They could be confused with chrysanthemums, if not for the stems with foliage. The magnificent "hairstyle" lasted about a month. She took care of the chamomile carefully - she weeded, loosened it, watered it in the heat in the evenings, and applied fertilizers for flowering plants. This year, the number of rosettes and flowers has increased. There were no pests and diseases on Fiona.
  • OOO "Sad" on Reproduction of roses by vaccinations and cuttings - the best advice from A to Z- Usually, rose hips are harvested in autumn, when they are just starting to grow brown. Now it’s not too late to do it. Put the seeds from the fruit in a bag of wet sand. Send to stratification in the refrigerator. Do not forget to mix sand from time to time and watch for its moisture. In the bag, make a small hole for ventilation. Spring stratified seeds can be sown in a greenhouse in boxes with loose soil or on a bed in open ground. Sprinkle sand on top to prevent blacklegs. Elena SMIRNOVA, curator of the rose collection of the Botanical Garden of Moscow State University named after MV Lomonosov
  • Evgenia Kotova, Podolsk on Reproduction of roses by vaccinations and cuttings - the best advice from A to ZI want to grow rootstocks for vaccinating roses, but I was late for sowing rose seeds with canina (rose hips). Can this be done now?
  • OOO "Sad" on Care for climbing roses in springIn my garden, the most “complex” of the climbing Camelot and Rosary Uetersen. Many believe that they cannot be laid and kept in good condition until spring, but this is not so. I lay all the climbing roses in several sets. After all, not a single adult queen of flowers will be able to take a horizontal position at ground level the first time. Yes, and it is dangerous to conduct such experiments, even if it seems that the plant is malleable. To fix the shoots, I prepare metal rods or strong wooden bars with pointed ends, a rope and scissors. Then I carefully remove the plant from the support. I cut the branches on 20-30 cm. For especially high roses, you can shorten the shoots for the winter and re-trimmed as a whole by half a meter. Do not try to save the longest lashes. Firstly, their non-lignified tops are unlikely to survive, and secondly, roses bloom on the side branches. And the stronger the central shoot, the more flower from the side branches. After that, I tilt them to the free side. I stick two wooden sticks one by one with the rose line through 40-50 cm, and the third - for reliability, stepping slightly from the general line to the side, opposite the second peg. I connect all the shoots in three places, but loosely. I tie the “bundles” to the sticks at the level to which they managed to bend without much effort, usually I bend them first to the level of my waist. It turns out that the tops of the shoots are between two sticks, the second and third. After a week, I bend lower and again fasten to the pegs. For the third time, most roses already achieve the desired result. Svetlana SAMOYLOVA, collector of plants, Moscow
  • Julia Gruzdeva on Care for climbing roses in springThe second year I can’t lay my climbing rose Camelot. Do not bend, and that's it! And after winter, then it recovers for a long time and almost does not bloom. What to do?
  • OOO "Sad" on Anemones (photos) planting and care- These sissies, like ballerinas, swing on long legs at the slightest blow of the wind. For this feature, the plant got its name, which is translated from Greek (Anemone) means "daughter of the winds." Anemones are divided into 2 groups: rhizome and tuberous. Rhizome species are unpretentious plants, but tuber plants will have to tinker with, but their beauty is worth it. Wintering In winter, anemones can not be dug up, but be sure to cover them with a meadow grass, spruce branches or a layer of fallen leaves. Refined ladies with roses in the foreground look harmonious. Flowers perfectly complement each other during the growing season, and for the winter, roses are covered with anemones. The second wintering option is the excavation of tubers. Do this in the fall (mid-September to early October), when the leaves completely dry, with a pitchfork to avoid damage to the tubers. Soak the planting material in a raspberry solution of potassium permanganate or "Fitosporin" (according to instructions) for an hour, then dry 2-3 weeks at a temperature of at least + 20 degrees. After drying, the aerial part is cut off, and the tubers are sent for storage to the cellar, after they are placed in sand or peat. Planting stock is stored until spring planting at a temperature not exceeding + 5 degrees.
  • Kristina Davydova, Moscow region on Anemones (photos) planting and careThis season, for the first time growing tuberous anemones. Tell us how these sophisticated beauties winter?
  • OOO "Sad" on The most unpretentious ornamental shrubs for the garden are stephanandra and spindle grass- Propagate the plant by seeds, cuttings, layering. Seeds are immediately sown in open ground in early May at a distance of 1,5-2 m. Crops do not require additional shelter, they are moderately watered. Cuttings. During the summer, shoots are cut off with a sharp knife from the bush, which are no more than 2-3 years old, with 2-3 internodes. Slices of the cuttings are dusted with Kornevin. They are planted in containers in moist soil (peat, river sand, humus and garden soil in equal parts) and covered with a film, creating greenhouse conditions. Periodically ventilate, monitor the moisture of the soil. Layering. They bend a young shoot (up to a year) to the ground, fix it and sprinkle it with soil. Water regularly. After a while, his own roots form and young leaves begin to grow. Further layering is separated from the mother bush and transplanted.
  • Angelica Filimonova, Yelnya on The most unpretentious ornamental shrubs for the garden are stephanandra and spindle grassA friend on the plot grows stefanander, acquired in a container. How can you propagate this shrub yourself?
  • OOO "Sad" on The most unpretentious ornamental shrubs for the garden are stephanandra and spindle grass- Stefanandra is a fairly unpretentious plant for the middle band. Easily tolerates shaping haircuts. In the spring, sanitary pruning is performed, removing frozen branches, and after flowering, you can make rejuvenating. Stefanandra loves sunny areas, although he puts up with partial shade. He does not tolerate drafts and strong winds, so they plant her in a place protected from the wind. For planting in the spring (April-May), fertile light neutral soil, preferably sand and peat, is suitable. On loamy and clayy soil, drainage is needed. With proper agricultural technology, the plant is practically not affected by diseases and pests. Only arid time is needed for additional watering. For the winter, it is advisable to bend young plantings and cover, for example, with spruce branches. In older specimens, the trunk at the base is spudded with dry foliage or peat. Shrub does not need frequent top dressing. Once a year, it is enough to make a bucket of humus FOR EVERY bush.
  • Antonina Baranova, Smolensk on The most unpretentious ornamental shrubs for the garden are stephanandra and spindle grassI want to plant stefanander in my garden. What care does this shrub require?
  • OOO "Sad" on Growing gladioli - planting and care: tips and tricks- Spots and spots on flowers can appear for various reasons. The most harmless - the result of burns from fertilizing and chemical treatments. They can also be from thrips, which is also not dangerous. The most unpleasant option is a viral infection of the plant. In recent years, viruses have been activated, and there are several of them, and they parasitize on very many plants, including gladioli. Infection, in contrast to fungal infections, does not appear in any way on the bulbs and children on vegetative plants; sometimes it can be found in the form of streakiness on foliage and in the uncharacteristic color of the flower (spots and strokes). When infected with several viruses, the plants look oppressed, deformation and the development of dwarfism are possible. In the end, the bulb in the next season can give a bunch of thin shoots and die. The virus is transmitted through insect bites (thrips, aphids, etc.) and working tools. Sick plants are destroyed. They cannot be treated. Only insect treatment helps so that viruses from other plants do not transfer to gladioli or from infected gladioli to healthy ones. This should not be taken as a catastrophe, but it is necessary to fight by treating the plants from pests with Aktara, Confidor or Aktellik (according to the instructions).
  • Angelina Myslina, Pushkin on Growing gladioli - planting and care: tips and tricksLast summer is not the most favorable for heat-loving flowers, so I was afraid that my gladioli would rot, but surprisingly dug up the grown onions. But the flowers were embarrassed - there were some white specks on the petals. Maybe I overfeed them or was affected by excessive humidity?
  • OOO "Sad" on Growing gladioli - planting and care: tips and tricks- Perhaps the bulbs “cooked” during drying from a heat source or were affected by boratitis. If this is a physiological decrease in turgor at some stage of drying, then everything returns to normal. This happens occasionally with us, if, for example, a gladiolus is pulled out of the ground and left with tops for several days. Those affected by botrytis will rot very soon, so keep an eye on the condition of the planting material.
  • Yana Labun on Growing gladioli - planting and care: tips and tricksWhen digging corms, soft specimens came across. After drying, there were even more of them. What could it be from?
  • OOO "Sad" on Growing gladioli - planting and care: tips and tricks- Do not think that thrips came to you with planting material. This pest lives in nature. He is on field daisies, as well as on phlox and dahlias. Unless marigolds are poisonous to him. They say that the Dutch greenhouse trip adapted to the “chemistry.” You did the right thing by treating the bulbs with “Fufanom” (follow the instructions). This drug saves from thrips and onion mites, as it is an acaricide. Of course, all new plants entering our gardens bring new varieties of fungal diseases. This is inevitable. However, they are transmitted not only with the juice of diseased plants, but also through overseas vegetables and fruits, their purifications and residues sent to compost.
  • Olga Vlasenko on Growing gladioli - planting and care: tips and tricksIn preparation for storing corms of gladioli, I found that some of them have thrips. Probably brought an insect into the garden with planting material. Processed all the bulbs with Fufanon solution. Will it save you from the pest?
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Hydrangea large-flowered and hydrangea paniculate - varietiesOn wintering panicled hydrangea even young bushes of panicled hydrangea winter well in midland gardens, but provided that they are protected from the north wind. To warm the root system in the autumn, trunks twist mulch with peat. I do this To protect the plantings from the destructive north wind, I first remove leaves from the bushes, bind shoots and bend to the ground, fixing with brackets. After that I crosswise over the bushes of the arc and cover with non-woven material (I use "Agrospan" with a thickness of 60 μR in 4-6 layers). Before the establishment of stable night frosts, I leave it to ventilate the vents. As soon as the “minus” becomes permanent, I close them. To keep the shelter dry, I sprinkle and carefully fix the layer of waterproof film. In spring-March, I open the bushes in stages, finally - after spring frosts. The buds already swell on the branches and young leaves open.
  • Tatyana KOVTUN, collector of chrysanthemums, Arsenyev on Chrysanthemum (photo) - description of species, planting and careChrysanthemums winter differently, and they are more afraid of getting wet than cold. Someone leaves the bushes in the ground as is, someone covers for the winter, some dig and clean up in the cellar, and someone conveniently stored in the trench. The choice depends on many factors. It is important to analyze the landing site. Perhaps in the spring water accumulates there - make bypass grooves. In general, in low areas, chrysanthemums should be planted on ridges. I warm my plants when the soil begins to freeze. Cutting off the shoots, I cover it with a box on top - so that there is airspace above the bush. If snow falls, this shelter will be enough, but if the frost gets stronger and there is no snow cover, I throw foliage, straw or sawdust on the box. Then I cover it all with a sugar bag. Unlike film, it allows air to pass through. In the spring I take off my shelter early so that the chrysanthemums are not drunk. It is good to cover the bushes with a foam box, but only on unfrozen soil. Then it works like a thermos, and in case of a thaw it does not pass heat to the bush. This is especially important for regions where frosts alternate with thaws. About multiflora After flowering, I cut the bushes, leaving the stumps in 8-10 cm. Sometimes young shoots are formed not from the root, but on these stumps. If there are no severe frosts (up to -7-10 hail.), I leave mother liquors on the street. I cover with dense covering material at night. You can keep it in the greenhouse longer. Do not rush to bring them to the store: at a constant positive temperature, they will begin to grow, but you need to sleep. It is often written that the best conditions for wintering multflora are + 2-5 degrees. From my own experience I was convinced that it withstands the complete freezing of an earthen coma. I somehow left the mother liquors in the barn, where the temperature dropped to -10-12 degrees. And the plants withstood - the plants that were put in the buckets overwinted everything in August, and the transplanted ones had a lunge of about 10-15% in late September. By the way, at minus temperature watering is no longer necessary in the storage. If it is warm and dry there, you need to water several times during the winter (but at the same time shoots begin to grow). If you are not sure about the success of wintering in your “bins”, you can plant part of the overgrowth from the bush in a fall in a pot and keep it in the house as a houseplant.
  • Elena Dorokhova on The winged phlox are the best varieties (photo). Landing and maintenance in open groundIn dry, warm autumn, phloxes are watered, otherwise they will not accumulate enough nutrients and may die in winter. Immediately after flowering, only the tops of the stems are cut. Phloxes cannot plant growth buds for next year without leaves. Stems are cut off at the very surface of the earth only in late autumn. It is better to burn them, as they can be infected with diseases and pests. If you did not have time to remove the faded flower stalks in the fall, break them carefully in the early spring, being careful not to damage the young shoots. After trimming, mature bushes are mulched with organic matter (compost, including leaf compost, biohumus, peat). Under the mulch, you can put a complex autumn mineral fertilizer or ash.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Tree peony (photo) planting and care. Cultivation and varietiesWhen the temperature of the soil drops to + 8-10 deg., I stop feeding peonies. The question of the time of cutting the aerial parts on the eve of the peonies leaving for the winter often arises among amateur gardeners. On the one hand, they usually dig and divide bushes in mid-August, while removing the stems. On the other hand, in August-September, nutrients still accumulate in the roots and a large number of thin absorbing roots are formed. If you interrupt this process ahead of time and remove the entire aerial part in August, the plants will leave in the winter weakened, which will certainly affect their development and flowering in the coming year. Because some gardeners recommend pruning the shoots with the onset of autumn frosts. But here it is important to calculate everything: too late pruning of the stems is also undesirable - it can lead to decay of the rhizome. I usually recommend cutting the shoots in mid-September. By this time, suction roots are already growing in the plants, and the stems are completely healthy and not damaged by frost. But this year is such a warm autumn that the dates themselves shift. It is necessary to remove around the bushes and plant debris. I start this work with the first frosts (in hybrid and early flowering varieties) and finish it no later than October. Immediately after this, I spill the earth with a fungicide solution. I sprinkle peonies with soil with sand with the addition of ash. Loosening the ground between plantings.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Redcurrant in a standard form (tree form)Bushes of red currant are unusually decorative in the fall - its berry brushes on the background of emerald foliage burn with bright red patterned lanterns. After ripening, they hold onto branches for a long time, almost until late autumn. Clusters longer than 20 cm are of special delight. Currants are not only vitamins, but also positive emotions. Positive emotions from admiring healthy productive bushes are enough for every gardener to plant this culture at home and pay special attention to it. But not only the crop is important, but also the quality, the healing power of the berries on your table. Red currant loves sandy loam and loamy soils, but it can grow on others as well. Photophilous more than black, but not so demanding on humidity. It can be propagated by dividing the bush and layering, green and lignified cuttings. Planting red currants is best in September. A pit is dug in advance so that the soil settles. The diameter of the planting pit is 50 cm, the depth is 40 cm. Between the plants, leave spaces up to 1,5 m between plants. After planting, you need to compact the ground so that there are no voids and pour a bucket of water. Seedlings must be cut off a lot, leaving 10-15 cm with 2-3 buds off the ground and mulch the soil around. In winter hardiness and resistance to fungal diseases, red currant is superior to black. It is not particularly demanding on moisture, but it needs to be watered periodically, especially during fruiting. Be sure to weed the currants from weeds, which with their powerful roots can do a lot of harm. Bushes of red currant need to be fed: in the fall potassium chloride and superphosphate are introduced, and in the spring - nitrogen fertilizers. In order for the currant to give a rich harvest with large berries, it must be cut off. Pruning is done in autumn or early spring (before sap flow). Also in the summer after the fruiting period, sanitary pruning can be carried out. For me, currants are a small part of my bright childhood.
  • V.I. Tikhonov, Krasnodar Territory on Cannes flowers - growing, storage, care and varietiesCANNA - A NOBLE FLOWER The homeland of this beauty is the tropics and subtropics of America, Asia, Africa, where it grows along the banks of rivers and streams. But in Russia, it also took root and delights florists with its fiery red flower petals, wide leaves and a powerful stem, and it can be grown not only in the southern region, but also in the temperate latitudes of Russia. Before planting, it is better to germinate it in a container with earth on the windowsill but away from the radiator. When a sprout appears, and the weather is warm outside, you can plant a canna in a flower garden or pot, if you decide to create a mobile flower garden and move it to the place you need. This is especially true in the middle lane. After all, with return frosts, the pot can easily be removed to a room or a greenhouse, as well as put in a place where there is no wind. In the southern region, it can immediately be planted in a permanent place in a flower bed. If planted in a container, then you need to water more often, pick up a semi-shady place, otherwise the roots will dry out and the plant will be uncomfortable. In the south (in the subtropical zone), the canna can be left to hibernate in the ground, slightly covering the roots with dry leaves, humus. But to leave the canna in the ground in the middle lane means to doom it to death. Therefore, when the plants have bloomed, the inflorescences should be cut, and in the middle of September - October, the stem should also be cut, leaving a stump 5 cm high. If you grow a canna in the middle lane, then in the winter after the first frost it should be dug out, shake the ground and put in sprinkle a box or other container with peat, humus and send to a cellar or a cool pantry. Regularly need to inspect the roots, moisten a little so that they do not dry out. In the spring, again put the roots in a pallet on a light windowsill for germination, then plant them in the country. And you will again admire this noble flower, the main decoration of your garden.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Joshta (photo) planting and care: my feedback on the plant and the experience of growingNow everyone knows that yoshta is a hybrid of gooseberries and black currants and that he surpassed his parents in many ways. The shrub turned out to be tall, powerful, without thorns (unlike its parent - gooseberries), forms little root shoots, therefore, does not require strong pruning. Root shoots also do not form. The hybrid feels good under the southern scorching sun (unlike black currants). Yoshta can be watered less often, a glass case is not so dangerous for her. The hybrid is practically not affected by pests and diseases (I did not observe such a thing on my landings). Therefore, it is not necessary to spray bushes with pesticides, and we eat berries that are environmentally friendly. But her parents are often struck by brown spotting, powdery mildew, rust and atrocnosis. They are often attacked by a spider mite, which requires constant treatment of bushes with insecticides. When I got yoshta, I uprooted blackcurrants and gooseberries (old plantings), leaving only 2 bushes of modern varieties that are resistant to disease. But I tried to propagate yoshtu and not in vain. Another advantage of yoshta is that it begins to bear fruit on the 2-3 year after planting and continues to produce good yields until the 17-18 years. With good care from each bush, you can collect a bucket of large tasty berries, which are also useful. For example, they contain vitamin C in 4 times more than in blackcurrant berries. Yoshta berries remove radionuclides from the body, are a barrier to the formation of tumors and leukopenia. They are consumed fresh and processed into jam, jelly, juice and even wine. Some gardeners complain that their yoshta gives a small crop of berries. I think that everything is in the right agricultural technology. I know from my own experience that it is impossible to get a crop in the shade, because yoshta only bears fruit in sunny places and requires potassium top dressing, and finally, another condition is that to increase the yield you need to plant gooseberries and black currants next to it for cross pollination. Follow these conditions and get a decent harvest.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on To what depth is the soil to digTO DIGGING AND FERTILIZING In gardens and on berry-trees before the onset of frost, summer residents and gardeners carry out a “rough” digging of the soil, that is, without breaking the seams into small parts and not harrowing the soil with a rake. With this digging, three goals are achieved in the fruit-bearing garden: more moisture accumulates in the soil, the strata freeze more completely, more than 10 of various types of garden pests die, which hide in the soil for the winter to a depth of 10-15 cm, and, finally, the winter stratum itself time is well crushed. It is best to dig the soil in the garden after the leaves have completely fallen. Then the spores of fungal diseases will be embedded in the soil together with the leaf. Before digging, add 3-4 kg of manure per square meter, or 4-5 kg of compost, or 1-2 kg of bird droppings to the surface. If there are no organic fertilizers, complex mineral fertilizers should be added, which include nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. The dose of fertilizer indicated on the packaging. If organic and mineral fertilizers are added to the garden, then only half the amount of organic fertilizers needs to be applied, which was indicated earlier. Many gardeners maintain their garden under constant sod. How to fertilize in this case? After the last feeding of grass, mineral fertilizers are applied to pits (made with crowbar to a depth of 10-20 cm), and organic fertilizers are scattered on the surface of the grass.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Autumn planting of currants: important nuancesPLACE THE CURRANT CORRECTLY! The best time for planting currants is autumn - the end of September. During this period, an active growth of the root system is observed, which contributes to the survival of plants. I advise you to plant blackcurrant according to the 1x1 m pattern, which contributes to a rapid increase in yield. Arrange red and white currants next to the pattern 1x1,5 m. Plant plants in holes or grooves with a depth of 30 cm and a width of 45 cm. For planting, it is best to use 1-2-summer seedlings with at least 2-3 shoots with a length of 25-40 and a fibrous root system with 2-3 skeletal roots with a length of 15-20 cm. Plant the seedlings obliquely, deepening the root system by 8-10 cm below the soil surface. After planting, cut off all the shoots on the 3-4 buds, and also pin all the branches with wooden hooks to the soil to ensure rooting of the branches and the rapid growth of the aerial part of the bush. During planting, shake the seedlings lightly to better fill the inter-root voids with soil. After planting, water: 10-20 l per plant, then mulch the trunks.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on An interesting way to grow horseradishHorseradish can be stored like sugar beets. It is not afraid of frost, and so as not to dry up, cover the bottom and walls of the box with a sheet of leaves, and also sprinkle horseradish with leaves and snow. The roots will remain fresh until spring.
  • Marina Vorobyova, Bogorodsk, Nizhny Novgorod Region on Growing onion chernushki for one season - my experience, reviews about it and tipsWINTER CHERNUSHKALuk on seeds I plant in the winter, chernushka turns out larger. During autumn planting, it is important that the onion forms a strong root lobe, but the feather does not have time to grow. Therefore, I plant the onion on the chernushka in front of the Veil (12 — 14 of October). Usually at this time the weather is still warm, with little rain. Bulbs take root well before frost, but they do not have time to give greens. For landing, I select a turnip of the same size. I plant it to the depth of the shovel, placing the bulbs in a row and between the rows with an interval equal to half the diameter of the bulb. I cover a little bed with cut bushes of flowers from phloxes. In the spring, as soon as the earth ripened, I clean the bushes from the flowers, and I loosen the bed with a rake. I make sure that the bed does not dry out and the soil crust does not form, otherwise the onion feathers will be able to break through to the surface, grow bent and ugly. Further care comes down to regular weeding. At the same time, I gradually rake the soil to the edges of the bed so that it resembles a trough in shape. When the onion blooms, once or twice (depending on the weather), fill the garden with water. Then the heads become weighty, with a lot of seeds. I remove the onions when the stars with seeds begin to crack on the head. I cut off the inflorescences for drying and put them on a wafer towel to ripen in a warm, dark place, it is better, of course, in the attic. After a month, I wipe the heads with my hands, then sift through a sieve into the pan. I store the sifted seeds of chernushka in a chintz pouch, which I keep warm at home. I sprinkle the spring seeds before planting in a saucepan and pour water. High-quality, germinating seeds settle to the bottom, trash floats up. Of course, it is possible to grow chernoshka even from spring, but when sowing full-sized, heavy seeds in winter, much more is obtained.
  • Catherine on Digging and storing dahlia tubers - how CORRECT?TIME TO DIGG OUT GEORGIAN TUBERS From the neighbors I heard the most controversial opinions when to dig them out. Someone said that flowers must be kept in the ground until the first frost, someone that must be dug up in late September and early October. For all my summer residence, I tried different options and found the perfect one - just keep an eye on the weather. Light frosts during warm autumn are not afraid of tubers, on the contrary, in such conditions they ripen well. But when weather forecasters begin to promise significant cooling - feel free to dig up the tubers and prepare them for storage. As the dahlias bloom, I observe how beautiful the flowers are and how much the plant itself is. In my garden I do not want to see stunted sprouts. I select only the best copies for storage. Digging dahlias is not so simple: the root system and tubers sometimes reach impressive sizes. I look at the size of the roots and tubers - if they are very large, they have to be divided, nowhere to go. The small tubers remain in the form in which I dug them. Before digging, I cut the stems to a height of about 12 cm from the base of the roots. When dividing dahlia tubers, it is important to leave a piece of the plant’s neck with buds in each delenka. After the tubers are dug up and separated, I leave them to dry in a well-ventilated room. While the tubers are drying, you can see the diseased and damaged parts that I remove. Completely dried tubers I put away for storage. I store at + 3-5 degrees. Humidity in the room should be no more than 85%. If the humidity is less than 80%, then I advise you to pack the tubers so that they winter well. I put dahlias in boxes, fill them with dry sand and carefully pack the entire structure in a plastic bag and be sure to sign each variety of dahlias so that in the spring I will not mix up when planning my flower garden. When storing dahlias, do not forget about them. I check tubers every month to prevent the spread of rot in a timely manner. In early spring, I carry my design home so that the flowers begin to wake up. Can be watered - moisture helps the awakening of dahlias.
  • Vera LIPAY, Minsk region on When to plant asters for seedlingsI sow asters in the frost. As soon as the ground freezes (late October-early November), I sow the seeds of aster. Under conditions of natural selection, the weak will die and the strongest will sprout in the spring. As a result, the flowers will be strong, resistant to diseases and weather conditions. I prepare the planting plan in advance: in the beginning of October I dig the earth and at the same time I add 1 sq. Kg of compost and peat, a handful of complex mineral fertilizer and 3 g of ash. You can add sand. By leveling the soil, I make furrows with a depth of 300 cm. After the bed I cover it with a spanbond. And as the first frosts begin, I take away the shelter, sow the dry seeds of asters in the frozen grooves and sprinkle them with loose soil on 2 cm (I pre-harvest the ground). I cover the bed with seeds with plastic wrap, I press with stones around the edges. In April, I remove the film, and instead of it I put the spanbond. In the beginning of summer, I take off my shelter, and thin out or sprout sprouts.
  • Maria ANASHINA, Moscow region on Perennial vines - photo and description, planting and care from A to ZI’ll tell you how I prepare my creepers for winter. At clematis, blooming in spring and forming buds on last year's shoots, in October I cut only the topmost part of faded shoots. I remove broken and damaged parts. I add loose compost to the plants. I do not hide these clematis in warm winters. The princes, the closest relatives of the Clematis, also winter without shelter. I cut the plants blooming on the shoots of the current year briefly (it is possible up to 15 cm above the ground) and pour compost to the place of their growth. Clematis that bloom on last year's shoots, pruned at a height of about 120 cm from the ground. I pour fresh soil (compost) to the base. I shoot the shoots myself from the supports and lay them on the boards. I always cover clematis as soon as the air temperature drops to -3 ... -5 degrees., Covering the plants with sawdust mixed with shavings. But once after this, a sharp cooling gave way to a lingering wet autumn - heavy rains alternated with wet snow. To protect the plants, I laid the boards on top of the shavings. So I came to an air-dry shelter. The simplest option is a frame of boards, on which I lay plywood or a piece of roofing material on top.
  • OOO "Sad" on Corn - seedlings and in the open ground. Landing and care- Under ideal conditions, the roots of the corn can spread up to 240 cm wide. If the corn has neighbors, they prevent the roots from spreading so much, and it behaves more modestly. But despite this, a plant with a high stem casts a thick shadow and can seriously interfere with other residents of the garden. Therefore, arrange rows of corn from north to south so that all the plants on the plot have enough sun. At the same time, the distance to the bed adjacent to the corn should be one and a half times greater than its height during the period of maximum growth.
  • Anna Gurchik, Moscow on Corn - seedlings and in the open ground. Landing and careHow far from the cornfield can other vegetables be planted? I read that corn has a large root system, and nothing grows next to it.
  • OOO "Sad" on Cladosporium tomatoes or brown spotting - resistant varieties and wrestling- The main source of infection is diseased plants. Therefore, it is important to remove all affected leaves, stems and fruits from the greenhouse. If it is not possible to remove contaminated soil to a depth of 15-20 cm, then cut off at least 5 cm where the main infection is concentrated. Then wash the inside of the greenhouse with soapy water. Immediately afterwards, spray the walls and the ground with 3% Bordeaux fluid. Repeat disinfection in spring (April). In addition, in the upcoming season I recommend growing hybrid cultivars resistant to cladosporiosis (Chrysanthemum, Bohemia, Vologda) in a greenhouse.
  • Galina Stepanova, Bryansk on Cladosporium tomatoes or brown spotting - resistant varieties and wrestlingIn a greenhouse with tomatoes that year does not disappear cladosporiosis. I tried to wash the walls with bleach, disinfect plastic and earth with Bordeaux liquid - it does not help. Replace the soil is not possible. What to do?
  • Claudia on Growing rhubarb - planting and care, species and varietiesI divide rhubarb every five years. I read that rhubarb should be divided and transplanted at least once every 8 years. From my own practice, I concluded that already in the fifth or sixth year the plant begins to degenerate - the leaves are smaller, the bush needs more time to gain strength in the spring. Therefore, I made it a rule to transplant rhubarb times every 4-5 years. I dig a bush in dry weather in the afternoon. I divide it with a sharp shovel into the 3-4 parts so that each has 2-3 healthy kidneys. I dust the place of cut with ash. I let them lie down for a couple of hours. During this time I bring in a bucket of compost (humus) and sand (rotted sawdust). I dig a bed, form a hole according to the size of the root system. Add there for 1 tablespoon superphosphate and potassium sulfate. I plant rhubarb and water it abundantly. Juicy petioles begin to cut in the next season. I cook from them vitamin compotes, jelly and jam.
  • OOO "Sad" on Onion: by seeds, through sowing and sampling - differences in cultivationThe described method of growing is one of the types of joint plantings. Its main purpose is to protect beets from pests (beet fleas and flies). And fragrant onion does an excellent job. As for top dressing: you can start with a solution of ammonia (it will be more addressed to onions), but when the beets begin to form root crops, it is advisable to feed it with complex mineral fertilizer (for example, Kemira). Elena ISAEVA, agronomist
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Onion: by seeds, through sowing and sampling - differences in cultivationI set the onion set for winter in the interval from 14 to October 20. Between the bulbs in the row I leave approximately 10 cm. But between the rows - 30 cm. For what? In the spring, when the plants get stronger and the threat of return frosts passes, I carefully weed the onion bed, loosen the aisles, form shallow grooves and sow beet seeds in them. I regularly water the crops so that the earth does not have time to dry out, otherwise the beets may not rise. When the first shoots appear, I feed onions and beets with diluted ammonia (2 tablespoons in 10 liters of water). Both plants like this top dressing. As a result, onions and beets quickly grow, and there is no need to complain about the yields of these crops. Love
  • Evgenia SHUPLETSOVA, Smolensk on How to get a late potato cropOur garden is located on the site of a drained swamp. On the one hand, the land here is very fertile, peaty. And on the other, you have to properly care for her - to weight and deoxidize every year. But then she noticed that our potatoes grow larger and tastier. In the fall, in the potato beds, I bring in a 1 sq.m 1 bucket of dried clay, river sand and humus, add a liter jar of wood ash, a handful of dolomite flour and a matchbox of potassium chloride. Digging it all up on a bayonet shovel. By the time the potatoes are planted, chlorine is washed away, and the earth is saturated with moisture. - After such an autumn refueling in the spring, no fertilizers are needed. And the result is always five!
  • Nikolai CHROMOV, Cand. of sciences on How to get a late potato cropWould you like to get a potato crop from a small plot, which is enough for the whole winter? Do not be too lazy to properly prepare the beds for the next season right now! First of all, remove all weeds and tops from the site that you plan to take for potatoes. If wheatgrass and other weeds with long roots have bred on it, pre-treat them with herbicides. About ten days after that, rake everything up and burn it. By the way, it is especially effective to use mustard in the fight against scab. If for some reason you can’t sow this siderat, to combat the disease, add 10 g of ammonium sulfate and 20 g of potassium magnesia per 1 sq. M. Pip in 10 digging kg of rotted manure and 1 tsp. nitroammophoski on 1 sq.m. Or mix in equal parts potassium sulfate and superphosphate (1 tablespoons per 1 sq.m). If your soil is acidified (white clover, sparrow sorrel, tricolor violet, common heather, lingonberry, blueberry, grow in abundance) horsetail, buttercup) - add lime for digging (10 kg per 6 hundred parts). Sow mustard. In the spring, after 20 days after emergence, cut the greens and plant them in the soil. Immediately after that it will be possible to plant potatoes.
  • OOO "Sad" on Walnut cultivation in the garden - expert advice- Between young walnut trees, you can plant only those plants that grow a maximum of 3 of the year - for example, strawberries (strawberries) or vegetable crops. As a rule, even undersized forms of walnuts grow more than 5 m in height and with a crown diameter of more than 4 m (the height is much larger for tall ones). I do not recommend planting other fruit trees or shrubs with them next to it: nuts will overwhelm them over time.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Walnut cultivation in the garden - expert adviceTell me, what can be planted between walnuts (between • approximately 5 m)? Currants or better hazelnuts, almonds? Tatyana Dovgal, Kherson region
  • OOO "Sad" on Pear rust control and other garden garden myths- The described symptoms can be the result of two different reasons (incompatibility of the scion and stock of the pear, phytoplasm of pear depletion). Unfortunately, both reasons will not allow you to get a good harvest in subsequent years. Most likely, the tree will die within a few years. To determine the specific cause, laboratory diagnostics are needed, which is carried out in specialized laboratories. Therefore, I recommend uprooting the affected tree and burning it (phytoplasm is transmitted to neighboring pear plants quite quickly). Do not plant a pear at this place in the coming 3-5 years.
  • Olga Petrova, Balashikha on Pear rust control and other garden garden mythsThe leaves of the pear turned red ... A year ago, I bought two annual pear seedlings. Over the summer, they grew well, successfully wintered. But this summer, on one pear, the leaves turned red sharply at the end of July. They didn’t fall, they just blushed and that’s it. What happened?
  • OOO "Sad" on Cultivation of peaches in the garden. Diseases, yielding varieties, pruning and care.- Perhaps the plant is affected by bacterial cancer or a fungal infectious disease (anthracnose, cytosporosis). If the ulcer encircles the trunk and the tissues are deeply affected, I advise you to uproot the tree. If the wound occupies no more than a third of the perimeter of the trunk, cut the affected tissue to living wood, treat the trunk with garden varnish, spread it with clay and wrap it with natural fabric.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Cultivation of peaches in the garden. Diseases, yielding varieties, pruning and care.Help me figure out what is on the peach trunk (see photo). Nikolay Korzhich, Kiev region
  • OOO "Sad" on Apple bark diseasesJudging by the photo, your tree came out after the winter with sunburns, frost pits. The viscous sticky discharge that you mistook for honey is most likely gum (most often found in stone fruit - plums, cherries). If the stem is damaged by frost, the first sign is a darkening of the cortex in the form of wide, blurry spots. Later, in these places, the crust cracks (often longitudinal gaps appear) and lag behind the trunk. In addition, wounds become the "gateway" for a number of infections. For the future: if you notice minor cracking, treat these places with garden varnish or emulsion paint with the addition of fungicide and tie (tie only one season, then remove to avoid constriction). In your case, peel ulcers to healthy wood and treat with garden var . In the fall (after the fall of most foliage) and in the spring (when the kidneys swell), to prevent the appearance of diseases and pests, spray the garden with copper-containing preparations (for example, HOM, Abiga-Peak). And another thing: permanently waterlogged soil is also not good for the tree, since gas exchange in the root system is disrupted, which can lead to the death of the plant. Keep this in mind when planting trees.
  • Mantas Alyukonis, Vilnius city on Apple bark diseasesTell me, what about the apple tree (pictured)? The feeling that the damaged places on the trunk oozing honey from the inside - too many flies to them. The tree grows near the standpipe, the soil is constantly wet.
  • OOO "Sad" on Autumn planting raspberries (+ VIDEO)- You have remontant raspberries of late fruiting, which I advise you to replace with early ripening remontants. For example, I am satisfied with the varieties Heracles and Diamond. Under favorable weather conditions, this raspberry begins to bear fruit from the 25 of July, but no later than the 1 of August. Berries are picked every three days for two months. And to eat raspberries even earlier, plant summer (with a two-year fruiting cycle). On my site, the earliest grade is Kuzmina News. Berries begin to blush from June 25, I harvest the crop until early August. And let the fruits of the variety are not the largest, but incredibly sweet and tasty! France KHALILOV, Ph.D. agricultural sciences. Author photo
  • Natalia Nemogay, Moscow Region on Autumn planting raspberries (+ VIDEO)Every year, our raspberries begin to bear fruit only in October. Often, most of the crop simply does not have time to ripen. And in the summer for some reason there is no raspberry ...
  • Olga EMELYANOVA, Associate Professor, Ph.D. agricultural sciences on Autumn planting raspberries (+ VIDEO)Raspberries: autumn planting is better When raspberries are planted in autumn (early October), seedlings take root in the first year and develop better, become more powerful than during spring planting. Place Place sunny, protected from the wind plants. In partial shade, young annual shoots are stretched out, obscuring the fruiting stems. As a result, the bushes get sick and the yield is low. Neighbors Choosing neighbors for raspberries, remember that she gets along well with an apple, pear, plum, but keep it away from cherries. Do not plant raspberries close to sea buckthorn and blackcurrant: in all these plants, the roots are in the same layer of soil. Sea buckthorn will gradually survive raspberries from its place. Due to common diseases and pests, raspberries should not be planted next to strawberries. I do not recommend breaking raspberries after tomatoes and potatoes. The planting process It is more convenient to plant raspberries in furrows with a depth of 30-40 cm at a distance of 0,5-0,7 m from each other. The root neck should be at ground level. Before planting, cut the seedlings, leaving 30-40 cm above ground. Dip the roots in a mullein solution. After planting, root buds should not be on the surface of the soil. After watering, mulch the plantings (peat, humus).
  • Natalia DORONINA on Seedlings of freecia strawberries - how to grow?don't even try to plant strawberries in October. All that can be done now is to dig out a bed for spring planting. And you should urgently prepare a place for prikop seedlings (storage place). The site should be high so that in the spring there is no stagnation of water, and protected from the wind. Do not use the place near the foundation of a building or garden path made of stone or tile. It’s better if it is a bed in the garden, protected from the wind - for example, next to the greenhouse (but not from the south side, it is better from the east). On the bed, dig a groove 12-15 cm deep and spread the seedlings tightly to each other, after having straightened them roots and clipping damaged leaves. Sprinkle the plants with loose soil, compact and water. As always, make sure that the growth bud is not covered, as soon as there is steady frost, pour dry fallen leaves (preferably oak or maple) on seedlings on a dry day, cover with a light span bond and put 2-3 coniferous branches on top, so that they trap snow, preventing it from being blown away by the wind. In early spring, as soon as the soil melts, dig seedlings from the prikop and plant them in a permanent place.
  • Irina Gurieva on Peony Spring Landing - MASTER ClassCut and warm the peonies. After the first frosts on the peony bushes, cut the leaves. In dry weather, pour the plants into grooves dug around the perimeter. Under loosening, add 300 g of ash and 200 g of bone meal under each bush. And at the end of October, mulch the soil under the plants with a humus layer in 7-10 cm.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on 7 Delphinium Care Rules - Florist TipsDelphinium pruning rule Trim the delphinium, leaving at least 20 cm of the stem above the ground. In winter, this will protect the roots from freezing, and in the spring - from decay (when snow melts, water can get through the cavity of the stem to the root neck). At the same time, it is important to immediately clog all sections of dolphiniums with a suitable material - clay, chewing gum, plasticine. Or bend the stem and tie with twine.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Works in the flower garden in the autumn - bulbous flowers: dahlias and gladioliIn dry, warm weather, plant bulbous plants. But if on the street above + 15 hail. - a big risk that the bulbs begin to sprout. Focus on soil temperature - + 10 hail is suitable for planting. Plant bulbs to a depth 2-3 times their height. Place the bulbs down on the bottom, the exception is the imperial hazel grouse, which is laid on its side. The distance between the bulbs should be 3-5 times their diameter. The distance between the rows is at least 25 cm.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Growing Orchids at Home - PROFESSIONAL TipsHow to revitalize an orchid Your flower is almost withered, and you do not know what to do? There are ways to help reanimate this delicate plant. Keep in mind that the orchid, although it looks luxurious, touchy, is nonetheless very stress resistant. For her, harmony is always important: the optimal amount of light, humidity of the air and substrate. It is worth breaking it, and the plant will begin to mope, hurt, and then completely wither, if you do not come to its aid in time. What you need to do? If the leaves or stem of your flower are damaged, the problem may be related to pests. You can try wiping the leaves of the plant with soapy water. And if the orchid has brown and wrinkled edges on the leaves, it is time to take action. It is clear that the first thing to do is to pour cool water on the flower. And make sure that it flows. Repeat this procedure for 4 days. But before each moistening, the soil in the pot should dry out a bit. The next step: a week later, water the flower again and put it on the window where the sun looks from 10 to 15 hours. And in the winter, you need to make sure that the flower does not feel cold, especially at night. If after 2 months the flowers do not appear on the plant, you need to cut the thorns. An orchid can also be placed under running water, and then fed with fertilizers. It is also worth replacing the soil in the pot, especially if the plant has rotted roots. But before all this is done, damaged underground parts are removed, and the base of the plant is wrapped with wire and lowered into a new soil. If the stem of the orchid is green, it should not be cut. In general, transplantation often helps to survive. You only need to take the pot 4-5 cm wider than the one in which the plant grew. This will allow the roots to actively consume nutrients from the soil. In winter, the flower really needs a sufficient amount of light, so you can not do without additional artificial lighting. It is also necessary to spray water around the plant so that the orchid absorbs moisture from the air. Note: Excessive moisture is very dangerous for the orchid, because the roots stop breathing and leaf growth slows down.
  • OOO "Sad" on Perennial vines - photo and description, planting and care from A to ZLiana is unlikely to survive the cold in the garden if she is not prepared in advance for such stress. After all, this plant feels uncomfortable even at a temperature of 10 degrees of heat. That is why flower growers sow kobe every year and grow as an annual. However, you can still help the plant survive the winter by making the kobe come to life in the garden in the spring. What needs to be done? When autumn comes, the kobe must be cut off, leaving stalks 10 cm high from the ground. Then the root of the plant is dug up, moved to a cellar or basement with a temperature of at least 10 degrees of heat and placed in a container with the ground. Since the time of “hibernation” comes for the plant, it does not need light. The main thing is to monitor the temperature and humidity of the air in the room - it should not be dry. With the onset of spring, the plant is taken out of the basement and relocated to a warm and bright room. This will help him wake up faster after hibernation. And as soon as young shoots appear, the kobe is looked after, as usual. By the way, at this time it can be propagated by taking cuttings of uterine shoots from young shoots, which are immediately placed in a container with rich soil. In order for root sections to take root faster, they are covered with foil, and shelters are removed every day for ventilation and watering. And when it becomes warm outside, seedlings are planted in open ground.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Perennial vines - photo and description, planting and care from A to ZTell me how to prepare a kobe for the cold? Can she winter in the garden? Tamara
  • OOO "Sad" on Caring for large-leaved hydrangea (PHOTO) - expert adviceMany gardeners really care about this issue, and in vain: the plant can be planted both in spring and autumn. However, the timing of landing will still depend on the weather. For example, in the northern regions it is better to plant hydrangea in the spring. But if the seedlings are healthy, with a well-developed root system, this can be done in the fall, but no later than the beginning of October, otherwise the bushes will not have time to settle down before the onset of stable frosts. The best seedlings for planting are those that are at least 3 years old. Very young people will take root poorly and get sick more often. Keep in mind that this shrub does not like to roast in the sun all day, in shading it grows brighter and lush, therefore, choosing a place for planting a plant, settle it on the east or west side along the house . The best place is where the 8 morning and evening is the sun, and at noon, when the sun is most active, the bush is in partial shade. It is very important that the site is sheltered from cold and strong winds, but at the same time there must be normal air circulation. Since deciduous hydrangea grows well on acidic soils, you should not add ash, preparing a pit for planting the plant. It will ideally mix nutrient soil with sawdust, peat and needles of coniferous plants. If you intend to plant several shrubs at once, the distance between them should be at least 1 m, since hydrangea grows very quickly. But if you want to grow a hedge, it is advisable to leave a gap of 70 cm. Not all plants can be neighbors of this shrub (brenthenia goes well with astilbe, hosta, boxwood. But plant this culture next to trees and other flowers and shrubs with a superficial root system is not recommended.The neighbors will begin to oppress each other and will look deplorable over time.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Caring for large-leaved hydrangea (PHOTO) - expert adviceAdvise when it is better to plant deciduous hydrangea - in the spring or in the fall? Irina Dmitrievna
  • Natalia Ivanovna GOMONOVA, Oryol Region, Livny on Folk remedies for aphids and gooseberry fire - my testimonialsThe firebox is extinguished with brine. Gooseberries and currants are the main enemy - firework. Butterflies of this pest appear from pupae in spring, when flowering ends in berry bushes. They fly only in the evenings and lay eggs inside the flowers. Hatching caterpillars feed on seeds and pulp of berries, as a result of which they ripen prematurely and become unsuitable for food. As soon as buds are outlined, I spray the berry bushes with a solution of herring brine (1 glass on a bucket of water). I consider this method one of the best in the fight against gooseberry moth. Elderberry branches also help. They can be arranged in jars of water inside the currant bushes and gooseberries.
  • Ivan Sergeevich PIVOVAROV, Bryansk Region, p. Suzemka on How to get rid of slugs - tips agronomistI want to share my experience in fighting slugs and snails. When these mollusks attacked my plantations with white cabbage, I took 1 tsp. instant coffee, poured a glass of boiling water, allowed to cool. In the early morning, when slugs began to crawl out of shelters in search of food, he sprinkled plentifully the cabbage and the earth around it. I waited 40 minutes and repeated the processing. And for maximum effect after spraying, the soil next to the cabbage was also dusted with coffee. All pests on which the drink got killed. I sprayed it once in 1-2 weeks, as a result I saved the crop and did not have to use chemistry!
  • OOO "Sad" on Corn - seedlings and in the open ground. Landing and careThis phenomenon is called through the grain box of corn on the cob. First of all, it is due to the biological characteristics of the culture. Compared to corn varieties (hybrids) traditionally cultivated for grain in the sugar variety, the partial fullness of the ears is genetically determined. So for breeders there is a big field of activity. But along with this, there are a number of factors that reinforce this phenomenon. During the period of grain filling, corn requires a good supply of moisture. Drought during flowering inhibits fertilization, especially in the ovaries located at the top of the ears, which leads to poor filling. So, during this period, plants need abundant watering. The best conditions for the growth of the "Queen of the fields" are formed at an air temperature of 22-25 degrees. Before the appearance of generative organs, raising the temperature to 30 degrees does not harm the corn. However, during flowering, cooler weather is required for pollen to germinate well. If the temperature exceeds the above value, arches and drying out stigmas of cobs occur. In this regard, for the conservation of corn, late varieties are better suited, as well as early, but sown at a later date. It is also advisable to avoid placing the plants in a single row near the fence or on the edge of the plot. For good pollination of plants, they must be planted in compact groups, as this is a wind-pollinated crop.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Corn - seedlings and in the open ground. Landing and carelast year planted corn of different varieties, but all the cobs were half empty. More or less even rows of grains went only to the middle of the head. What is the reason for this? A. I. PUSTOVOYT
  • OOO "Sad" on Tree foliage in autumn - we remove and applyAt first glance, the fallen foliage of fruit trees is almost an ideal covering material, and also free. However, the available disadvantages do not allow us to consider this raw material universal. First of all, it is worth noting the features of decomposition. The leaves of most garden trees under the influence of rain emit a sticky substance and turn into a sticky mass, poorly permeable to air. Plants under such a "blanket" practically do not breathe, and the microclimate created there contributes to aging. Another serious drawback of fruit tree foliage is the presence of pathogens of various diseases, especially fungal ones, and pests at different stages of their development. No matter how hard gardeners try to suppress the growth of pathogens with the help of chemical, biological fungicides and folk remedies, in the conditions when country and household plots are not isolated from each other, infection occurs constantly, because spores are easily carried by the wind. This circumstance, by the way, limits the use of this raw material in the preparation of compost. Therefore, it is no coincidence that since ancient times people burned fallen leaves, thereby preventing diseases and pests from multiplying. However, there are trees whose leaves can be used to shelter tree-trunk circles of fruit trees and garden beds. Oaks, birches, maples and chestnuts are best suited for this purpose. Their foliage does not decompose throughout the winter. But in the spring it must be removed. To make it easier to clean a shelter made from fallen leaves, it is best to put it in mesh bags made of vegetables and lay on beds adjacent to each other.
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Tree foliage in autumn - we remove and applyCan fallen leaves be used for winter shelter of plants? Andrey Sergeevich KUMANOV, Kaluga
  • Dmitry Petrovich HARCHEVKIN, Bryansk on Cultivation of apples and other plants from seeds - my advice and feedbackThe apple tree from the seed has risen to fame. I want to share useful experience with gardeners, telling about how I 10 back grown a gorgeous apple tree from the seed. Autumn was in the yard, a car with apples — beautiful, juicy and tasty — came from somewhere to our market. I bought, I began to try. Suddenly I see: but inside, all the seeds hatch. I had to go to the garden and dig up the ground. He planted a row of seeds in it, noted the place of planting on two sides with chopsticks. I arrive at the cottage in the spring, and all the seedlings came together amicably, one to one. They sat summer, grew by 30 cm, the ground was soft, fertilized. In the fall, seedlings were planted, the extra distributed to relatives and neighbors in the country. Over the course of two years, the apple trees grew well, did not hurt anything. It was still winter, and in the spring I began to use a simple trick that causes the young tree to activate sap flow, contributes to its increased growth. I took the aluminum wire, stepped back from the ground about 30-40 cm and twisted the trunk of the apple tree with this wire. It did not turn out very tight, because he acted only with his hand, trying, however, so that this “winding” would not fall off. This should be done in early May. Over the summer, the apple tree grew, its trunk became thicker, the wire almost grew into it. At this moment (somewhere in August) it must be removed. The next year I didn’t have any apples, and a year later my apple tree blossomed. She had grown up by that time powerful, one could not wait for such a nursery, the branches were sprawling, strong - and there was nothing to cut. They grow so that they do not interfere with each other - both up and in breadth. I did not pick the color, there weren’t so many of them, and the tree was powerful. The apples were green in the summer. In the mass of foliage they were almost invisible, but by autumn they began to turn red. They sit tight, do not fall. I tried the most mature one - dark green with a dark red barrel. Juicy, strong, sweet and sour taste. The variety turned out to be autumn, and even better than the "mother". As a result, in my rush, in the first year, I collected about three buckets of apples. Thank you apple tree! Dear gardeners, good luck, try, dare, experiment, it’s so great to grow a powerful tree from a seed! Attaching photo.
  • Sofia Nikolaevna on Growing pepper on straw - reviews and tipsI want to offer gardeners my method of growing vegetables - under the straw. I sow the seeds of carrots, beets, radishes, turnips in the usual way. After sowing, I fill the seeds with a layer of earth 1-2 see. I water, if the weather is dry, cover all the crops with a layer of overripe straw and bend it lightly with my hands. For carrots, its thickness should be 2, for beets - 5, radishes - 2, turnips, radishes and daikon - 8 see. After 2 weeks, strong shoots appear. Under such a layer of mulch there are no ants and wireworms. Watering planting is not too plentiful and at a time when there is no rain. As a result, there are no signs of scab on the roots of rutabaga, turnip and turnip, which previously affected them. The carrots are smooth and stored in the underground, not subject to rot. Although there is one thing here: the elongated root crops are bent with this method. But kohlrabi and juicy, and perfectly stored for more than a month in the refrigerator. Radish does not shoot at all and grows larger than on bare ground. With a shelf life of one week, its taste becomes sharper. In April, before sowing radish, I cover the soil with a film to warm it, and after three hours, removing it, sow the seeds. Then, on top of the sowing, I grab a layer of mulch and put the film - right on the mulch. After sprouts, I remove it, and in return for warmth I throw it on agril.
  • Alexey Viktorovich AFANASIEV on Redcurrant in a standard form (tree form)When forming a bush of red currant, it is usually recommended to cut the zero shoot to a third of the height. Then next year you can get 2 — 5 shoots. But in this case, we destroy the apical kidneys of the currant - the most powerful and productive! Therefore, during the period of swelling of the kidneys, I remove only one upper one, and leave those that are located around it. The next year, and in this case, 2-5 new shoots on the zero trunk grow in exactly the same way. But the apical crop is preserved, and at the same time the formation of the bush is not disturbed!
  • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Growing watermelons and melons - planting and care: tips from summer residents and gardeners (2 collection)In our area, the climate is getting warmer, and every year I boldly experiment with those cultures that used to grow only in the south. For several years I have been enjoying watermelons from my site. I will gladly share my experience in growing this thermophilic crop. It turns out that growing a watermelon is not so difficult. It is enough to choose good early ripening varieties, the growing season of which is no more than 80 days. I chose the Fiber Lezhebok honey. Seeds were sown in mid-April in cups, one at a time. Since the weather is changeable, I decided to plant the seedlings in the greenhouse when the soil at a depth of 10 cm warmed up to 15 degrees. The seedlings were planted according to the 50x80 cm pattern. From the time of emergence of the seedlings to the setting of the first fruits, the plants were watered about once every 10 days, and then, once the striped berries ripen, once a week. During flowering planting sprayed in the afternoon, so as not to disrupt the natural pollination process. As soon as I saw that an 3-4 walnut-sized fruit was formed, I pinched the tops of the 3-4-m leaf. And he removed all the other ovaries: the plant will still not be able to feed more. I did not leave the shoots on the ground, but tied them up. When the watermelons grew by 1,5-2 kg, I placed them for reliability in onion nets. 45-50 days have elapsed from fruit set to harvest. Watermelons gained weight from 3,5 to 5 kg and were very juicy and tasty. And most importantly - without any chemistry! Nikolay Dmitrievich ERMIKOV, Bryansk
  • Elvira Valeryanovna ALEXANDROVICH, Tula on How to plant carrots several times during the summer and sow before winter - my way (Rostov on Don)To extend the season of consumption of my own carrots, I advise you to leave one bed with the root crops intact in the autumn. Pick the leaves from the plants and sprinkle with soil a few centimeters in layer. In such a shelter, carrots winter well and remain fresh and juicy until spring. Once the snow is falling, it can be dug up and eaten.
  • Nikolay Dmitrievich ERMIKOV, Bryansk on Growing early cucumbers in a vertical culture - planting and carePlant cucumbers in grooves I plant my cucumbers in the open ground in a special way that protects them from possible cooling. First I dig grooves at least 20 cm deep at a distance of 70-80 cm from each other. The soil under the cucumbers should not be acidic, fertile, well warmed up. Then at the bottom I make holes in which I plant cucumbers, tapping them to the first leaves. I compact the earth under bushes and water it with warm water. If it suddenly gets colder, I cover the groove with a plastic film - then the seedlings will be warm. What is this method good for? The roots grow over the entire depth of the groove in the cucumbers, due to which the stems grow healthy and strong. As the seedlings of cucumbers grow, I pour the earth under the bushes, and gradually the grooves are compared with the surface of the earth. For cucumber lashes, I make supports and, as they grow, I remove the side shoots to the sixth leaf. And the sooner I delete it, the stronger the cucumber lash becomes. It is also important not to obscure the seedlings of cucumbers, often pour them with warm, well-maintained water.
  • Inna Semenovna on If the terry jasmine is not blossoming budsWhy is jasmine not blooming? Many gardeners rack their brains over why the mock-up, called jasmine, ceases to please lush flowering? And the reasons can be very different. Firstly, an elementary lack of light. Sometimes close proximity to fruit or stone fruits. Because of this, the mock-maker lacks mineral and organic substances, moisture. If it is possible to solve the problem with light, it is also necessary to prune the plant correctly, to cut thin weak shoots growing inside, and to conduct the main pruning after flowering, cutting off the upper part of the faded shoots and leaving a young lateral growth. Only strongly overgrown, neglected bushes of mock lilies are subjected to strong pruning in March - early April. It is necessary to feed them with full mineral fertilizer, loosen the soil around jasmine, remove weeds, and water well. And the bush should bloom.
  • Sofia Nikolaevna on Gladiolus - planting, care and treatment of bulbs - advice of the masterFor several years now, I have been using Vishnevsky’s ointment purchased at the pharmacy to preserve flower bulbs. Before planting tulips, gladioli, lilies and other flowers, I take this product out, dilute it with warm water in a disposable bowl until the consistency of sour cream, quickly dip the bulbs in it and plant them in the ground. Mice and moles bypass my tubers. For all the years of use of this odorous ointment, rodents have not damaged a single bulb plant.