reader Reviews Recent Comments gardeners and gardeners: Maria ANASHINA, Moscow on Heliotrope (photo) planting and flower careThe heliotrope can be stored in the house in winter. However, it happens that until the spring, for various reasons, he lives poorly. Therefore, without waiting for death, I cut it. You can root cut tops of shoots even with inflorescences. The main thing is to manage to save living shoots. The best time for grafting is from late February to mid-June. However, with good care (stimulants, heat, illumination), it usually turns out to be rooted earlier. My secrets I leave at least three internodes on the cuttings. I delete most of the leaves. I treat the base of the handle with a stimulator (“Heteroaouxin”, or indolylbutyric acid). If the lower part of the handle is not too thin, you can make a furrow - a couple of shallow longitudinal cuts. To the wounds, the influx of growth substances increases, which facilitates the development of roots. I prepare the soil light and moisture permeable, the simplest is to buy it ready for seedlings, but I usually use a mixture of peat and sand (1: 1). I pour it into a container, in the bottom of which I pre-make holes. I cut the cuttings 1,5-2 cm into the soil and cover with a glass jar. To root, you need sufficient soil moisture, ambient light and a temperature of + 22-24 degrees. Roots appear in 15-20 days. I plant rooted cuttings in pots with more nutritious soil. The first few days I shade and spray 2-3 times a day with water. Soon I begin to form bushes (I pinch the ends of the shoots). It is possible to form a heliotrope in the form of a tree (by tying the main shoot to the support and blinding the side buds).OOO "Sad" on Plants decorative cereals - photos and names- The sheep is evergreen. Often it is confused with blue fescue. The color and somewhat similar shape are confusing, but the sheep’s bumps are slightly higher and more sprawling than those of the gray fescue. It tolerates frosts and summer droughts. Blue fescue. It grows rapidly, so every 2-3 years the plant needs to be renewed by division. Drought-resistant, grows better in the sun. Moliny is not afraid of dampness and shadow, does not like too sunny and arid areas. The ideal soil for it is moist and fertile. Soddy pike. It feels great on soils of any acidity and composition. It forms a low green hummock with numerous panicles rising above it. When the bushes "bald", the plant is dug up, divided into several parts and planted. Sludge sedate varieties Bronze From. The foliage is brownish-golden. It is not cut for the winter; in spring, it has died out (whitened) and is easily removed by hand. Feels good both in the sun and in partial shade. Emperor is cylindrical with bright red cylindrical leaves. Unpretentious, withstands different growing conditions. Ophiopogon Niger, also called the Japanese lily of the valley. Low frost resistant plant with black leafy plates. Any garden soil and moderate watering is suitable for him; it grows better in partial shade for me. Millet is rod-shaped. It boasts not only attractive appearance, but also durability. Withstands both drought and waterlogging. A sunny flower garden with any soil is suitable for millet, although "poor" is preferable - the bush does not live on it and the color of the leaves is brighter.Tatyana Ermine on Plants decorative cereals - photos and namesAdvise unpretentious types of cereals, from which you can start landscaping the site.OOO "Sad" on Types of miscanthus (photo) and care for them- This ornamental perennial cereal can reach more than 3 m in height. It has a powerful root system that grows very much. It’s better to put him in a large container or other container in advance to restrain growth, and he “didn’t leave for a walk” in the garden. The most decorative of all varieties is Chinese miscanthus Zebri-on. Its leaves are decorated with transverse cream stripes, for which he received his name. Suitable for growing sunny or partially sunny areas. It responds well to feeding with compost from fallen leaves. Loveable. The lower leaves at the end of the summer season turn brown and gradually fall. It spoils a little decorative bush. Given this feature, it is better to plant it in the background or plant high hosts and other perennials in the “legs”. Since the shoots retain their decorativeness in autumn and winter, cut them off in early spring. Moreover, if you remove the stems in the fall, then in the winter thaws, moisture gets into the remaining hollow stumps, and the plant may die. Vladimir KORZHOV, collectorKarolina Evseeva on Types of miscanthus (photo) and care for themMiscanthus caught my attention. Give recommendations for its landing. Is the cereal capricious in leaving?OOO "Sad" on Useful properties of oak about which few people know - recipes- The homeland of red or, as it is also called, Canadian oak (quercus rubra), is the northern part of the USA, the south of Canada and the temperate latitudes of Eurasia. Its difference from other species is that the leaves have an unusual light crimson hue. In autumn, on young seedlings, they turn green, while on older seedlings, they turn brown. Propagated by red oak seeds (acorns), they are also red-brown. Fruits a tree in the 15th year of life. I sow healthy-looking red oak acorns before winter on a pre-prepared bed (school) in moist soil to a depth of 5-7 cm and sprinkle with earth. Crops and young seedlings for the winter do not cover. After seedlings in spring and summer, seedlings need weeding and watering in hot and dry weather. Transplanted to a permanent place two or three year old trees in the spring, before the leaves dissolve. Pruning is also carried out at this time, if you need to remove dried, incorrectly growing branches or adjust the growth of the crown. For good growth, the oak tree needs open sunny places, it can also be put up with diffused partial shade. If you plant several seedlings, leave a distance of up to 5 m between them - consider the future dimensions of the tree, which needs room for the development of the crown. Canadian oak is not particularly picky about soil, unless it should be planted in overly acidic soil, but it will taste the fertile soil. If cracks appear on the trunk of a young tree, they are covered with garden varnish. In the middle latitudes, in the north-west of Russia, even here in the Arkhangelsk region, it is grown without problems. Red oak may well become the property of your collection and the highlight of the garden. Victor TEREKHIN, owner of the nursery "North", town. Konosha, Arkhangelsk regionKorolev S., Smolensk on Useful properties of oak about which few people know - recipesI want to grow a red oak on my site. Friends promise to give a small seedling in a pot (from an acorn) in the spring. What place in the garden to prepare for him?OOO "Sad" on Stony slope (photo) how to make and what to plant- Usually edelweiss in cultivation is unpretentious, hardy and winter-hardy. Perhaps he immediately had enough food, and then, when the soil was exhausted, it began to degenerate. Most likely, he did not like the new place or the neighbors drowned the plant. Edelweiss prefers bright places and light drained soil. It responds well to making humus. When planting in the ground, it is necessary to add coarse sand or gravel. Remember, in too fertile soil, leaves grow, but flowering is weak. You can transplant a bush in the spring, given its preferences. Or at the end of May-June, separate the tops of the shoots and root in partial shade. Seeds can be sown in February in a pot and cover with a film. Put the container in a dark place where the temperature is not higher than + 13-15 degrees. 2-3 weeks after the emergence of seedlings, remove the film and transfer the pot with seedlings to a lighted place. From this point on, it is important to monitor soil moisture, avoiding either overdrying or overmoistening. Alexander IVANOVICH, Ph.D. Agricultural Sciences, GorkyKristina Lavrenova on Stony slope (photo) how to make and what to plantMany years ago, she planted an edelweiss on a hill in sandy soil (as the seller advised). Immediately, it grew well, and then gradually began to “leave”. I tried to transplant to another place, but in vain - there was a very small curtain left. How can a flower be propagated so as not to lose? I saw edelweiss seeds on sale, maybe it’s worth sowing them too?OOO "Sad" on Daylilies - classification by flowering groups (abbreviations), etc.- Seeds in the refrigerator continue to dry out, their cover is compacted. Before sowing, they need to be awakened. And the problem is that the classic simplified method - holding the seeds in a solution of hydrogen peroxide for 5-6 days, sowing separately hatching and remaining sprouted, does not always work. Many of the latter gradually rot in the ground. In recent years, I have been using a different method. 4-6 weeks before sowing, usually in mid-December-early January, add a few drops of water in zip bags with seeds and leave them in the refrigerator. Such stratification contributes to the swelling of the seed and the awakening of the embryo. It is necessary, first of all, deciduous varieties of daylily (Dor) - at least 5-6 weeks. Evergreens (Ev.) And semi-evergreens (Sev.) After such a stay give friendly shoots. In February I take out the seeds from the refrigerator, pour the solution (30-40 ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 1 liter of water) into the “bags” and leave them in a container in a dark, warm place at + 25-28 degrees. Peroxide softens the peel of the seed and promotes the penetration of water and oxygen to the embryo. Most often, from the 3rd day, white seeds appear in some seeds. I get sprouted and sow in the ground. Usually, from 6-7th day, seed germination slows down, and I send them back to the refrigerator, draining the liquid from the "bags". After 5-6 days, add a solution of a lower concentration (20 ml / l) to them and put the seeds in a warm place for 5-6 days. Sprouted planted. And so I do sometimes until spring. This method of "swinging" awakens the embryos of almost all the most "resistant" seeds. Svetlana SILIVON, daylily collectorAnna Gorelik on Daylilies - classification by flowering groups (abbreviations), etc.Last spring I tried to germinate the sent daylily seeds - it didn’t work. Now they again presented me the same seed, which I keep in the refrigerator for now. How to deal with him?OOO "Sad" on Flowers and compositions of them for balcony boxes. Minutunium- The most important rule for a balcony flower garden is to combine plants so that they bloom in turn and delight you from spring to late autumn. Usually the choice falls on annuals. Land them, given the location of the balcony. If it goes to the south side of the house, you can use heat-loving plants (verbena, phlox, purslane, gaillardia, aster, rudbeckia, kobe, sweet peas, Wittrock violet, snapdragons), and flowers that prefer shade or penumbra (fuchsia) are suitable for northern windows , begonia, forget-me-not, tenacious creeper, periwinkle, lobelia, ageratum, tunbergia, coleus, ivy, cineraria). But geranium, viola, calendula, petunia, reseda, nasturtium and marigolds can grow both in the shade and in the sun. They are best planted on the western and eastern windowsills. It is very important to acquire the seeds of low-growing plants. High grades look awkward, and in the worst case will break and fall from the windowsill. Consider gusts of wind if the balcony is not glazed or often ventilated. If it is located on the upper (last) floors, the wind is always stronger there. In such cases, only the lowest flowers can be planted so that their stems do not break and bend. Irina KOROZASummerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Flowers and compositions of them for balcony boxes. MinutuniumIn the new season I want to ennoble the balcony with flowering plants. Which is better to choose? AlexandraOOO "Sad" on Unusual and very beautiful varieties of conifers for giving - photos and description- Slow-growing and dwarf species and varieties of conifers are best suited for such compositions, thanks to which the corner will retain its charming appearance for a long time. For example, in my garden I made a mixborder, which was based on Konika spruce (Sanders Blue, Misty Blue, Rainbow End, Daisy White, balls - Yalako Gold), lying junipers, which in adults do not exceed 1 m in width, a small thuja Western Mickey. Of course, from some conifers the composition would have been boring, so I added birch on the stem, bright slender barberry Maria, heicher, heathers, and variegated boxwood to them. All of these plants can be kept in the shape of a haircut. When creating such a corner, start work by planting the base - conifers - and gradually fill the space with garden flowers and ornamental shrubs. The flattened spruce Nidiformis (spruce nests) with roses, spherical chrysanthemums, various stonecrops and perennial asters look very good. Do not be afraid to experiment, and you will definitely have your own unusual and beautiful place to relax!Ivan Ignatenko on Unusual and very beautiful varieties of conifers for giving - photos and descriptionHow to make a small corner of conifers in the garden?OOO "Sad" on Honeysuckle curly honeysuckle (photo) species, planting and care- Last year, due to warm autumn, even fruit trees bloomed in places. But there is nothing to worry about. Honeysuckle is a rather tenacious and persistent vine; nothing is threatening it. Flowers that are formed repeatedly can be left on the bush and not plucked. In the spring, the bush will recover itself. As soon as the ground thaws, you can feed the honeysuckle with Pokon fertilizer or any other complex with a high nitrogen content (according to the instructions).Andrey Romanyuk, ag. Ostromechevo Brest region on Honeysuckle curly honeysuckle (photo) species, planting and careIn my garden, from the middle of November, the Honeysuckle Honeysuckle began to grow, leaves began to appear on it. And at my acquaintances I even decided to bloom again. Soon frosts began. Will this affect the plant next season? Can she survive the winter or have to say goodbye to the liana?OOO "Sad" on Growing seedlings and seeds for her - from A to Z. Memos to the summer gardenerOr lower the seed in a thermos with hot water (+55 degrees., A couple of degrees will go to heating the thermos). For this, it is convenient to use a nylon stocking in which to pour out the seeds, separating one from the other with a nodule. After half an hour, remove the stocking, sprinkle them on a sheet of paper, dry to flowability and immediately sow.OOO "Sad" on Growing seedlings and seeds for her - from A to Z. Memos to the summer gardenerWhen sowing large seeds, it is better to lay out pieces at the right distance from each other. Medium-sized seeds “salt” with a pinch. Very small before sowing should be mixed with sand or dry sleeping tea (preferably from bags) or coffee - 1 tsp. without top seeds / 1 tbsp. dust / sq.m.OOO "Sad" on Growing seedlings and seeds for her - from A to Z. Memos to the summer gardener- Count 10 pieces, lay them between layers of toilet paper and leave for two days on a saucer with a small amount of water. Then calculate how many seeds have come to a hatch: if 5-6, germination is good, and you can sow if 3-4,Nina on Growing seedlings and seeds for her - from A to Z. Memos to the summer gardenerHow to check the germination of expired seeds?OOO "Sad" on Growing seedlings and seeds for her - from A to Z. Memos to the summer gardener- If you are sure of their good quality, do nothing with them. If not, follow the advice of Dr. Mittlider - warm the seeds for 30 minutes at + 53 degrees, immediately before sowing.Evgenia Voinova on Growing seedlings and seeds for her - from A to Z. Memos to the summer gardenerHow can I poison my seeds from disease?OOO "Sad" on Growing seedlings and seeds for her - from A to Z. Memos to the summer gardener- Before buying seeds for future use, look at how old they have retained germination. Over time, it gradually decreases - for each culture in different ways. Improper storage of seeds sharply worsens their germination. They must be stored at a constant temperature and humidity, optimally at + 10-12 degrees. In a city apartment, pack the seed bags in a glass jar with a lid or store in a closed plastic bag. Seed containers are best identified on the windowsill, closer to the glass. Dry seeds tolerate freezing temperatures without impairing germination, but very poorly when heat is replaced by cold and. on the contrary, therefore they cannot be stored in a room that is heated from time to time.Eleanor on Growing seedlings and seeds for her - from A to Z. Memos to the summer gardenerI want to buy seed in advance - it’s cheaper, and there’s more choice. Where is it better to keep it without sacrificing quality?OOO "Sad" on Growing seedlings and seeds for her - from A to Z. Memos to the summer gardener- The advantage is that when sowing the purchased seeds, you will get the desired plant, which develops faster and is more resistant to disease. Hybrid seeds (F1) are more expensive than varietal seeds, since when they are received, crops are pollinated manually. But collecting seeds from hybrids you have already grown should not be in the first year or in the following.Y. Prokopenko on Growing seedlings and seeds for her - from A to Z. Memos to the summer gardenerWhat is the advantage of hybrids? I heard that you can collect seeds from these plants in the first year, is that so?OOO "Sad" on Callas Flowers - Planting and Care, Reproduction and Storage of Callas (Part of 2)- This calla accumulates moisture and nutrition in the tuber. If it has not dried to a state of "wood", the plant is living. It’s better to keep it cool. Before planting, the tuber must again be covered with earth, a little damp sawdust or peat. And in February-March, put it in a pot with slightly moist soil (light and nutritious) and wait for the shoots. Moisten a little before active growth, preferably through a pallet. Or wait for the heat and plant it in the garden on an elevated sunny place or in a light partial shade.Diana Groborova on Callas Flowers - Planting and Care, Reproduction and Storage of Callas (Part of 2)They gave me pink calla in a pot as a "bouquet." The plant bloomed, and I left it on the windowsill, forgetting about it. And when I remembered, the calla was already dry. Freeing the pot, I accidentally discovered a tuber in the ground. Do you think he died too?OOO "Sad" on Begonia (photo) home care and benefits- Watch the tubers - they should wake up the kidneys. Around February, begonias can be planted in a pot. I share tips from my experience. At the bottom of the pot pour drainage (expanded clay or pieces of foam). The soil should be loose, light and fertile. I plant only one tuber in the pot. I sprinkle it with soil from the sides, without covering the crown. And when shoots appear and grow, it is possible to spread a layer of earth above the tuber, but not more than 2 cm. Humidification is plentiful, but it is impossible to fill in - it can quickly rot. Since the begonia roots are located close to the surface of the earth, do not loosen the soil, after watering it is better to pour dry humus. I feed plantings every ten days with liquid fertilizer. In summer, it is good to use herbal infusion. In the garden, I put the pots in partial shade against the wall or under the tree, although begonia tolerates the heat well. To protect against wind, brittle high shoots are tied to supports.Yana Shved Svetlogorsk on Begonia (photo) home care and benefitsLast season, already with the first frosts, I got two tuberous begonias with chic flowers. I store the tubers while at home in a pot, falling asleep with dry earth. What to do next?OOO "Sad" on Begonia (photo) home care and benefits- If the shoots are extended, they can be cut into cuttings - they quickly grow roots in the water, even without any stimulants. And at the end of May, planted bushes planted in the garden. Now feed the begonia and, if possible, fill it up until mid-February. The bush will become thicker and again bloom magnificently. This plant prefers frequent watering, because it does not like drying out the soil, but it is also impossible to fill it - when grown in a pot, the roots can rot. By the way, in the garden it is not afraid of heat, nor wind, nor rain. It is possible to grow begonia ever-flowering from seeds; they usually have excellent germination. When sown in late January, the plants will bloom in August-September. But the instances of the cuttings - in early summer.Julia Taradeiko on Begonia (photo) home care and benefitsLast fall, in the summer season, she brought into the house an ever-flowering begonia bought in the summer in order to preserve it - I really liked it. Now the plant has stretched out, faded, and I am afraid that it will not survive until May. Is it possible to grow this flower from seeds?OOO "Sad" on Why do apples darken from the inside (both during storage and during ripening) and other "apple" problemsThere may be several reasons: - the heat abruptly gave way to coolness and rain. This fact can not only lead to darkening of the pulp, but also entails a number of other diseases of apples; - the fruits were removed too late, they were overripe; - apples are stored in a poorly ventilated area, where the temperature drops to about ° C; - unbalanced mineral nutrition; it is easy to overfeed the tree with nitrogen.Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Why do apples darken from the inside (both during storage and during ripening) and other "apple" problemsThe apples that I put in storage in the basement are healthy in appearance, and as you cut, they are brown spots on the pulp. What it is?OOO "Sad" on How to grow a petunia that will flourish blossomPetunias - a plant that, after diving for three weeks, builds up the root system and is at rest. After 5-6 weeks, the seedlings again begin to grow actively. Watch the plant: if after 3 weeks you do not see changes in the growth of the flower, then he needs help. There may be three reasons for this behavior: insufficient lighting; incorrectly set temperature; unsuitable soil. The first reason is the lack of light at high room temperature. Temperature after a dive: during the day +16 ... + 18 ° C, at night +13 ... + 15 ° C. After 30 days, it is increased by 3 ° C. Roots of seedlings can die at +30 ° C. If these conditions are met, we can conclude that the plant has weak roots. Acquired soil often has high acidity. Therefore, it is necessary to add chalk at the rate of 1 tbsp. l on a bucket of soil.Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on How to grow a petunia that will flourish blossomAfter a dive, petunia seedlings grow poorly and disappear. What to do? Olga MikhailovnaOOO "Sad" on What kind of mushrooms on a walnut can kill a tree?The whole question is whether the nut managed to take good roots. If you have time, the plant will recover without problems and continue to grow further. If the roots are still weak, then the nut is likely to die.Lyudmila Mihailovna on What kind of mushrooms on a walnut can kill a tree?Will a walnut grow further if its sprout is accidentally broken?OOO "Sad" on Spider mite on cucumbers - how to get rid of folk remediesYes, a spider mite is harmful to watermelons, especially if they are grown in a greenhouse. Where did he come from? Moved from other plants! There is only one advice: to keep seedlings away from other plants - this will protect both watermelons and plants that are surrounded.Gleb Ivanovich on Spider mite on cucumbers - how to get rid of folk remediesCan watermelons in a greenhouse die due to a spider mite?OOO "Sad" on Diseases of roses - photo and descriptionMost likely, your rose was struck by rust. With this disease, small orange tubercles first appear on the leaves, which increase over time. The only method of combating the disease is circumcision of the affected petioles. However, if the lesion is large-scale, then the plant can no longer be saved. The bush should be dug up and burned. This parasite tolerates the cold, so the only way to get rid of it is fire. In case of a rose affection with a spider mite, the leaves begin to turn pale. As a rule, the disease manifests itself at the base of the shoots. To fight the pest will help chemicals or infusion of garlic, soap solution.Valeria Mazurkova, Moscow on Diseases of roses - photo and descriptionThe leaves of the rose turned pale, and red spots appeared on it. What happens to the flower?OOO "Sad" on Delphinium (photo) cultivation planting and careDelphiniums need to be fed three times during the summer. For example, in spring, these plants grow so fast that they can rise by 5 cm or more in a day. And if the flowers in this period do not receive good nutrition, then they remain small. In the spring, when the plants begin to wake up, they need such a mixture (per 1 sq. M): superphosphate-70 g, saltpeter -15 g, potassium chloride-30 g and ammonium sulfate-30 g. All ingredients are mixed and sprinkled around the plants. You can dig a little soil, digging fertilizer into the ground by about 5-6 cm. As soon as buds begin to appear on high shoots, dolphinia need to be fed with a mixture of superphosphate - 60 g and potassium sulfate - 40 g. Fertilizers are scattered under each bush and then watered water. And at the end of the summer you will need the same top dressing as in the spring. Just remember that you can not overfeed dolphiniums with nitrogen fertilizers. They will not benefit from it.Olga Pavlovna LOMOVA, Penza on Delphinium (photo) cultivation planting and careI really like dolphiniums. But the first growing experience was unsuccessful. I could not see the beautiful flowers. A neighbor said that the problem is in improper feeding of the plant. Tell me what you need to apply?OOO "Sad" on Nasturtium in the country: not only a flower but also a useful plantNasturtium grows best in warm sunny places, as well as in light partial shade. If you place the plants on the north and east side, then the flowering will be sparse. This flower has many advantages. It is resistant to rain and wind, will easily endure drought, but dies at the first frost. The most advantageous plants look in large pots, hanging pots and long boxes. Nasturtium will look great along with calendula, marigolds and petunias, if they have a similar color. In order for nasturtium not to drive lush green tops, but to please with flowers, several rules must be taken into account. Before flowering, fertilizers should be applied at least 1 time per week using complex mixtures. As soon as the foliage grows, top dressing must be stopped. After the nasturtium blooms, all attention - watering. But it is required when the earthen lump has dried. Excessive moisture will result in a lack of flowers. Since these plants are very delicate, they can break. Therefore, it is better to sow seeds immediately in a cache-pot, pots and boxes.Raisa Fedorovna on Nasturtium in the country: not only a flower but also a useful plantLast summer I saw a garden plot on which nasturtium grew in huge pots and hanging pots. The sight is bewitching. Imagine cascades of bright flowers of sunny shades! This summer I want to settle the same beauty in my country house. Tell me what to consider so as not to fail.OOO "Sad" on Astilba (photo) planting and care, reproduction and cultivationAlthough the planting of this plant is not much different from other perennials, there are still features. To make it beautiful and healthy, it should be planted in the shade of large trees or conifers. If the astilbe begins to dry, the sun may be to blame. Immediately try to transship the plant to a shady place, but keep in mind that he also needs the sun. It is advisable that its rays hit the astilbe in the mornings or evenings. The plant also needs a wet area. This will allow the astilbe not to dry, and the gardener will also have less concern - the flower will have to be watered less often. Before planting, it is necessary to fertilize the soil well, otherwise there will be no lush flowering. In the pit, you can add rotted organic matter and a handful of complex fertilizers. This will allow astilbe to quickly grow and please its appearance. One more nuance will have to be taken into account: planting an astilbe is best in spring, and replanting and sharing - all summer. But if planting has to be done in the summer, pritenite flowers well and be sure to mulch with mowed grass.Oksana Leonidovna on Astilba (photo) planting and care, reproduction and cultivationLast spring, I chose the most sunny place on the site for astilbe and planted it. I watered it, fertilized it. And the plant has grown slightly, not showing its true beauty. I don’t understand what I did wrong. And are there any features in the landing?Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Plant lyuffa (photo) - cultivation on a loofahI recently read an interview with one of the already not young stars who, in order to look young, uses a natural loofah washcloth for face and body hygiene. At one time, I was looking for suitable varieties for our region for a long time. In Georgia, Abkhazia, in the south of our country, this is a common culture. On our market, if you meet its seeds, then it’s not at all a fact that you can get a crop. The variety of my precocious luffa is already distinguished by seeds: instead of the black plants usual for this, they are white. Last year, the first fruits hung on this pumpkin culture in May. Let me remind you that young Zelentsy go to food, and ripened go to washcloths. Eagle rpHManhPRuu flVHMHFRSummerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Yams (photo) planting and careThe tests of Chinese yams, the only one of all types of this culture that can grow in our conditions, continued. This time I refused to use air nodules for seedlings, and grew all of a part of tubers. Yams planted in three different ways. The weakest result was shown by a plant planted in an ordinary hole in a greenhouse. All the rest were placed in containers raised above the soil level: buckets and large bottles without a bottom, which gave good results. One of the yams was first planted in open ground on a compost heap. In hot weather, under bright light, it developed perfectly and was very powerful. But with the onset of the August fogs, the situation changed, and within 1-2 days the entire vegetative mass was killed by a fungal disease. This was a discovery for me. After all, all the other plants in the greenhouses remained completely green. In general, I was satisfied with the harvest: about 1 kg of tubers was "extracted" from each plant (the best result was 1,2 kg). And I started with a hundred-gram “pencils”. One of the problems is cleaning. Sometimes it is necessary to dig out funnels up to 1 m deep. And then there was a random clue, which I hope to apply next year. At the landing site of yams, a board is laid at a depth of 30-40 cm, which prevents the penetration of the roots deeper and promotes the growth of the tuber in width.Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Yakon plant (photo) cultivationThis culture also requires high light. It is difficult to tolerate heat, especially with low humidity. Even in well-watered plants, the leaves begin to wilt in such weather. Greenhouses do not like. It is not for nothing that his homeland is mountains. Weather conditions in 2019 were not bad for the yakon. But early frosts turned its emerald green into a dull dark mass and stopped the further growth of the week by 3 ahead of schedule. However, the yields were good: the record was 5,3 kg per bush (the second indicator for the entire time I cultivated this crop).Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Sweet potato - the best varieties and growing technologyLast season, the selection of the most adapted varieties for our conditions continued. I see two of the most basic: illumination and temperature of air and soil. At the slightest shadowing, the yield is reduced, and with significant shading it will not be at all. Temperature: the hotter the better. Watering and top dressing are secondary. Tuber formation was unusually early. But then the pace decreased significantly. Of the new varieties, I will single out Tekken and Bai Bell. Perple, American beige, NBS White also performed well. I will especially emphasize Manchurian. The bush is very compact, the lashes are very short, practically does not produce non-marketable tubers, the mass of which reaches 600 g, the total yield from the bush is up to 2 kg. He gave such indicators, being planted among tomatoes.Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Growing cucumbers in a greenhouse and open ground - planting and care (Vologda Oblast)Last season, I first planted cucumbers in a polycarbonate greenhouse, which are becoming more common. The previous record in the film construction was 11,7 kg of fruits per plant. In the new conditions, F1 hybrids far surpassed him: Tests Green -14,7, and Hercules -15 kg! Only very early frosts of up to 4 degrees could stop this triumphal procession. Moreover, all the fruits of these champions were delicious. Here are two main success factors: the proper formation of plants (there should be no “jungle”) and competent feeding, in which it is better to use a mixture of mineral and organic fertilizers or alternate them. The approximate ratio of NPK elements should be (in%) - 15-20: 5-10: 35-40. You should not get carried away with quantity: if you can put 30-40 g of mineral fertilizer per 10 l of fertilizer every 1-2 weeks to top tomatoes, then this is unacceptable for cucumbers: it is better to put 5-10 g, but feed twice a week.Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on New varieties of tomatoes - photos and reviews, name and descriptionI will focus only on F1 hybrids. It is worth noting that the foreign selection market today is aimed at improving the taste of fruits, which sometimes is simply amazing. Separately, pink-fruited tomatoes. The taste of Casamori, Donatello, Senkara is magnificent. But they always had a cracking problem. And this year it was possible to see a novelty - Pink Mani. He has almost solved this problem. And significantly increased shelf life. Yes, and productivity has increased. About 15 years ago, in tomatoes of this group, it rarely rose above 3 kg from the plant. Last season, the leader again became Boogie Woogie (4,5 kg), then Pink Gel (4,3). Among the newcomers, I note Pink Mani (4 kg), Pink Shine (3,6), Mei Shuai (3,9), KS 14 (3,5 kg). But all of them were far from the absolute record of 2018, which set Boogie Woogie (7,2 kg). Of the other new products, I will single out Guyana (6,1 kg), the leader in productivity, with huge brushes of large fruits. Cons of the hybrid - the brush itself does not withstand the load and needs a mandatory garter. I did not like the internal structure of the fruit. Rugantino was very good. He surprised not only by the form unusual for hybrids, but also by magnificent taste. I will also single out Grozdeva (5,1 kg) and Gualdino (4,1 kg). Of those who disappointed, Sarah with low taste and unappetizing appearance, as well as KS 835, was low-yielding and very sour. Of the diseases in the greenhouses hosted cladosporiosis. It was almost impossible to fight him. He quickly hits the leafy apparatus of tomatoes. But with a good agrotechnical background, this does not affect crop yields strongly. And the fruits themselves are not affected, which can be clearly seen in the photo of the Grozdeva hybrid. Do I have to deal with cladosporiosis to prevent the disease in the next season? I consider this optional: such diseases come every 5-6 years and the next year they also suddenly disappear. I have a similar attitude to pests.OOO "Sad" on How hazelnuts grow - photo, planting and description of care (PHOTOS + VIDEO)The authors of most varieties of hazelnut near Moscow are A. Yablokov and R. Kudashova. Winter-hardy variety Moscow ruby is perfectly adapted to the conditions of the middle strip. It has a powerful overgrown bush, annual abundant fruiting, leaves and a wrapper bright raspberry (pre-dark raspberry). In the fruit, 12-15 thin-shell nuts are ripened, ripening in early September. The variety Yakovlev's memory is also hardy, leaves and wrappers are densely raspberry. Hard-shelled nuts, collected in fruit crops of 10-12 pieces. Begin to ripen in late September. More excellent varieties near Moscow are Pervenets, Moscow Early, Ivanteyevsky Red, Pushkin Red. Hazelnuts are propagated by sowing seeds (at the same time, varietal characters are not preserved), layering, grafting, shoots, green cuttings (during vegetative propagation, the characteristics of the variety are preserved). Place under a hazelnut you need to choose a well-lit, and that there were no strong winds. It is better to plant at a distance of 4-5 m (adult plants grow and crown will obscure each other). In addition, each bush needs a food area of at least 16 square meters. m. When planting, a pit is prepared with a depth and diameter of 0,5 m, 5 kg of organic fertilizer is added to the soil from this pit, and mineral fertilizers can be added. The sapling is planted in spring or autumn, the roots are carefully straightened and covered with a soil mixture. Water well. For a good harvest, you need to plant at least two plants. Or nearby hazel should grow. At first, it is better to weed the near-stem circle and to loosen the soil shallow. And after 3 years, sodding or sowing of siderates is possible. In the process of growth, the bush is formed so that there are 8 large branches. In this case, excess branches are cut out. Near Moscow, hazelnuts bloom in April at an average air temperature of 12-14 °. Pollen flies for 5 days, and the period when female flowers can be pollinated lasts longer (2 weeks). If it is cold during this period, these periods may be extended. I. DMITRIEVA, agronomistM. Fedina Moscow Region on How hazelnuts grow - photo, planting and description of care (PHOTOS + VIDEO)I want to plant a hazelnut. Please tell us about the varieties of this culture near Moscow selection and about agricultural technology.OOO "Sad" on Chinese plum - my reviews, careChinese plum really comes from China. There she was first domesticated. From there I got to the Far East, and after the conquest of this region in the XII century. the Manchus became wild, giving rise to their new variety - the Manchu plum. In 1870, under the name "Japanese", Chinese plum was introduced from Japan to California, from where it spread widely through the gardens of North and South America and even Australia. But the answer to the question why this sink is not cold in Russia is simple. We are growing Ussuri subspecies, and it is really able to tolerate frost up to 50 °. The fruits of Chinese plum taste different from the fruits of home plum. The pulp of a Chinese woman is fibrous, crunchy and juicy, but a pleasant aroma reminiscent of melon or apricot is especially attractive. The fruits are quite large (3-6 cm), of different shapes and colors. Chinese plum is popular in the continental parts of our country, where ordinary plum freezes or even dies in harsh winters. And in the south, Chinese plum did not take root: the southern varieties of ordinary plum are much larger and sweeter. Gardeners in the middle zone are advised to test varieties not only of ordinary plums, but also of Chinese, and choose the best in your conditions.I. Pashkevich Chelyabinsk on Chinese plum - my reviews, careThey write that Chinese plum is very winter-hardy and its fruits are fragrant and tasty. If she comes from China, where it is warmer than ours, where does winter hardiness come from?Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on White onions - varieties, cultivation, planting and careI really love white onions. It seems to be more aromatic and sweeter than golden onions. I grow Dutch varieties Albion and Barletta. Albion is a one-celled, mid-season, onion weighing 11Q-130 g, medium keeping quality, very pleasant peninsular or sweet taste. Barletta is a very early salad variety. I sow it from April to July. In the first year he gives small onions, a little sharp in taste, and high-quality, slightly sharp greens. In the first year, a small onion grows from seeds - round or flat-shaped, with a diameter of 1-3 cm. With the onset of cold ridge we mulch with earth, peat, potato and beet tops so that the bulbs do not freeze. From early spring we get fragrant greens. But growing it without digging for the winter is not worth it: it shoots, and the bulbs are not stored. Having kept the seeds in the winter in a warm room and planted in the spring, we get bulbs with a diameter of up to 7 cm. A short rest period requires a hurry to harvest the bulbs after ripening, or after 45-60 days they will begin to grow again and the onions will not be stored.G. SHEVYREVA on Cucumbers and tomatoes: how to prolong fruitingI have been growing tomatoes for several years in the winter. I just dig a favorite bush of some super-child in the fall, cut it to a “stump” and transplant it into a big pot. It quickly overgrows with new shoots. However, on the windowsill (we have a western window), the plants clearly do not have enough light - they stretch out. Installed phytolamps, which I use for seedlings. I also highlight, daylight hours 12-14 hours. The timer socket turns on the light in the morning and turns off in the evening. Conveniently! Since tomatoes are thermophilic, in the daytime I try to maintain 21-23 °, and at night I open the window, and in the room it gets colder to 17-19 °. At one time, I put a fan on the plants to better pollinate the flowers. But the bushes clearly did not like the draft, I had to turn it off. Another “weak point” is low air humidity. For tomatoes, it is better if it ranges from 60-70%. It’s much drier in my room, I had to install a budget air humidifier around the tomatoes — water plates.Oksana GONCHAROVA, florist, Labinsk on Rosehip cultivation in the Moscow region - varieties, planting and careRosehip cinnamon Planting. From seeds, plants with unpredictable properties are obtained. Therefore, planted 2-year-old seedlings on fertilized soil (possible in spring and autumn). The distance between the bushes is at least 1,5 m. Benefit. It has tonic, immunostimulating, restorative, anti-inflammatory, choleretic, diuretic properties. Strengthens the walls of capillaries, has a good effect on metabolism. Fortifying tea In the midst of a cold season I mix in equal parts chopped rose hips, linden blossom, pharmacy chamomile flowers and willow bark. 1 tbsp collection fill 1 tbsp. boiling water, insist 10 minutes, filter. I drink 1/3 tbsp. Zraza a day 15 minutes before a meal.OOO "Sad" on How to grow your ginseng - planting and careInstead of ginseng for medicinal purposes, it is indeed possible to use acanthopanax sitting-colored. This deciduous shrub is very decorative. It blooms with small brownish-violet inflorescences. In September-October, black berries ripen (inedible). Akantopanaks is growing rapidly, great for hedges. Shade-tolerant (but develops better in the world), unpretentious, winter-hardy. She doesn't like a haircut. ROOT TINcture 20 g of crushed dry raw materials pour 100 ml of vodka, insist 10-14 days, strain, drink 20 drops with 1/4 tbsp. water 3 times a day. The course is no more than 30 days. Helps with colds, arthritis, as a general tonic. Vladimir STAROSTIN, dendrologist, Ph.D. agricultural sciencesLarisa Chuklinova, Tomsk region on How to grow your ginseng - planting and careI can’t grow ginseng. I heard that it can be replaced by acantopanax ...Natalia on Zolotarnik - solidago (photo) planting and care. Types of goldenrodA friend, having noticed along the highway glades of goldenrod, was touched: what a beauty! And she proudly added that she has the same in the country, but so far small. I had to upset her: the giant goldenrod causes great damage to the flora and soil. Why it is dangerous Goldenrod has no diseases and pests. But each bush gives up to 100 thousand seeds. Other plants do not survive next to it: in addition to aggressive reproduction, the root system of the goldenrod produces toxic substances (they can destroy even small bushes around). The soil becomes hard, dense, air does not enter it. As a result, the surrounding fauna changes in the area of goldenrod distribution: meadow insects, small birds and mammals disappear. If you still really want to plant in the garden 1. Do not take the goldenrod stocks from nature or from a neighbor, but buy seedlings (not seeds!) Of varietal and hybrid plants - they are less aggressive, but more decorative. 2. Do not let the plant seed; after flowering, immediately cut and burn the peduncles. 3. Destroy the thickets of goldenrod outside your area - at least twice a season mow the grass, which you must compost (put in a heap and cover with a film).Tamara GLADEKEVICH, Slavgorod on Bulb storage in bulbous flowers - 7 tipsIn the middle of winter, I look in the cellar to put in order all the tuberous and bulbous flowers. I pay special attention to dahlias. Plants of some varieties do not produce large tubers, which by this time already begin to dry out. I cut off rotten and unnecessary roots, dusting sections with ash and wrapping in two layers of newspaper. So I keep chic varieties until May. I examine the chrysanthemums, which in February I get for distillation on cuttings. If now some of them are starting to grow, I water them with a solution of the Athlete drug (1 sachet per 1 liter of water). As a result, 200 ml of the composition under the root will inhibit the growth of chrysanthemum.Anastasia VOROBYEVA, Novosibirsk on Damage of conifers in winter and their treatmentYoung flexible coniferous trees under the weight of snow can lie on the ground. Therefore, for them, I drive in special pegs to which I tie the booms, and wrap them with spanbond on top. If after winter I see that some branches have turned black (needles may vyryt under shelter), I cut them out before the start of the growing season, and spray the remaining shoots with Fundazolum solution (according to the instructions).Irina Yaremenko on How to prepare the seeds of your flowers?In the middle of winter, I check the quality of flower seeds, which are more than two years old. Dip gauze in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, slightly squeeze. I spread it on a saucer and sprinkle 5-10 seeds on the surface. I cover them with the free end of the gauze and rearrange the saucer on the battery. When the seeds are nested, I check: if only 50% hatch, then I mark for myself that the crops will need to be doubled. I sow seeds with 90-100% germination, as usual.Valentina DEVYATOVA, Voronezh on Bulb storage in bulbous flowers - 7 tipsI have tulip bulbs wintering in sawdust Every year, I replenish my summer cottage collection with tulips of new varieties. I usually buy bulbs in the summer to plant them on a bed in the fall (3-4 weeks before stable frosts). But sometimes I can not refrain from buying bulbs during the winter boardwalks at gardening stores. To preserve planting material until spring, I use this trick. I dry the bulbs well and put them in a small cardboard box (so that they do not touch each other), and then sprinkle them with pine sawdust - they protect the planting material both from drying out and from excessive humidity, and also work as an antiseptic, protecting from fungal infections. I have been stocking up sawdust since the summer (I dry them well in the sun and store them in closed containers so that they are not saturated with moisture). You need to store tulips at +1 ... + 5 deg. Therefore, if it’s warm, I keep a box of bulbs on a glazed loggia (controlling the temperature). When cooling, I put the box in a more spacious cardboard box, which is glued on all sides with foam plastic 5 cm thick. I lower the thermometer inside the structure so that I can quickly help the tulips if necessary (additionally cover with a blanket in severe frost). I regularly inspect planting material and change sawdust if they are damp.OOO "Sad" on The fight against the whitefly - folk methods- Fitoverm is one of the most effective and safe biological products that you can buy in the store. The maximum result from its use usually occurs on the 10th day after treatment. The duration of the protective action is at least 20 days. To completely get rid of pests, you should spray the plant 2-3 times with an interval of 14 days. In addition, glue traps of yellow color will be useful. They will help to catch adult insects. There are also several effective folk recipes. Tobacco from one pack of strong cigarettes, pour 1 liter of hot water, insist a week. Strain. Spray a plant damaged by pests every three days until the insects disappear. Grind into a gruel 5 cloves of garlic, pour 1 tbsp. water, insist in a sealed container for 1-2 days. Strain through 3 layers of gauze. Treat the plant 1-2 times a day at weekly intervals until all pests disappear. Grind the medium onion, pour 1 tbsp. water. Insist for 2-3 hours. Spray according to the same scheme as in the previous recipe.Evgenia Lyakhova, Smolensk on The fight against the whitefly - folk methodsIn the autumn I took it from the garden and transplanted a bush of hot pepper into a pot. Recently noticed a whitefly on it. I treated the plant with Fitoverm - there were fewer pests, but it was not possible to remove it to the end. How else to deal with the scourge so that you can eat the fruits later?Elena PETROVA, Samara on Dill in the shade and dill compatibility with other plantsI noticed several times that dill is not growing as fragrant as my mother-in-law. The real discovery for me was that dill loses its flavor if grown on a shaded bed or if ash or lime is added to the soil before sowing seeds.Darya SVETLOVICH on Grusha in the Moscow Region - planting and care: TIPS BY SPECIALISTS (Part of 2)An old pear has been growing in my garden for many years (inherited from the previous owners). A few years ago, during a thunderstorm, a tree broke. Cut the trunk as low as possible, but the stump still remained. I did not want to uproot him - it was hard and expensive. The solution was suggested by the neighbors. They shared pieces of wood infected with mycelium mushrooms. They drilled a dozen holes in a stump, laid chips brought into them, pieces of wood with mycelium, covered it with hay and spilled plenty of water. Next year, she was harvesting mushrooms. And two years later the stump was so softened that it was not difficult to remove it with a shovel. Took the method to a note and advise friends. Simple and profitable! And now you can buy mycelium in the store.Oleg TITOV on Growing a hard pumpkin - my adviceI read that wounds on the skin of pumpkins and zucchini, which are laid for storage, can be abundantly sprinkled with cinnamon powder. This will protect the fruits from decay and help maintain the crop. I did so. It's already mid-winter, and pumpkins are stored perfectly! The method works.Elena NIKIFOROVA, Smolensk on Varnalization of potatoes and other preparation of tubers for plantingIt used to disinfect potatoes before planting with the Prestige insecticide. The result was not bad, but the idea that it was a rather strong poison did not leave. Last season, on the advice of a neighbor, I diluted a half-bubble of pharmacy iodine (about 5 ml) in 10 liters of water, abundantly sprayed tubers with this solution from the spray bottle. I let them lie down for about 10 minutes, turned it over and sprayed it again. Immediately after that, I landed on the bed. The result was no worse than after processing Prestige! The potato was not sick, and there were practically no pests.Alexander Gorny, Cand. of sciences on 7 questions about growing seedlings of tomatoes - planting and careIf it is too early to sow tomato seeds for seedlings, then the formation of the first and second flower brushes begins in an unfavorable period (in February-March). As a result, yield falls, and fruiting begins later than it could. But often tomato varieties require early sowing of seeds. To solve the problem, when the seedlings reached a height of 15 cm, he cut the stems over the second real leaf. Tops put in the water. Some of them took root. They put them in separate cups. And on the stems remaining after trimming, an additional lateral shoot appeared, on which flower brushes formed in April, when there was enough light, and in general, seedlings grew stocky and healthy without additional illumination. Harvested last season began two weeks earlier than usual.OOO "Sad" on Update raspberry - an interesting way (variety Hercules)- After uprooting the old raspberry, be sure to dig the soil there to free the site from rhizomes that can sprout next year. Still plant new raspberry seedlings elsewhere. Contaminated soil, as well as plant debris, roots and parts of diseased plants remaining in the soil can be a source of diseases (including viral ones that are incurable). The only option to deal with them is prevention (first of all, compliance with crop rotation). Planting cherries instead of raspberries is also not worth it, because raspberries have depleted the ground.Elena Vetrova, Moscow on Update raspberry - an interesting way (variety Hercules)Is it possible to plant cherries on a site where raspberries grew for a long time (plants were sick)? Or is it better to place raspberry bushes there again?OOO "Sad" on Dangerous diseases of cherry - photo, name and description of the agronomist- When buying a seedling, its age is important - ideally not older than two years (so plants take root better). In your case, it is obvious that the cherry is tormented. The reasons may be different. For three years, the seedling grew with a closed root system, which could overheat or freeze, dry out or was very flooded. It is possible that the plant lacked nutrition, and it was greatly weakened. Perhaps, during the transplant, you damaged the roots. By the way, after planting, the seedling had to be cut by a third to equalize the root system with the aboveground part (this is a kind of resuscitation of the seedling, since any planting and transplanting is trauma and stress for the plant). As a result, the whole first year the cherry took root. In addition, the plant is likely to get sick. Hence the spots on the leaves that you mistook for the "drawing" of the nematode (the nematode does not damage the cherry!). What to advise? Uproot the plant is not necessary. Observe it in the new season, providing more thorough care: timely feed, water, treat from pests and diseases (focusing on the seasonal recommendations of the "Gardener and the gardener").Irina Teplova, Leningrad region on Dangerous diseases of cherry - photo, name and description of the agronomistLast spring, in the nursery I purchased a seedling of 3-year-old cherries of the Youth variety with a closed root system. In May, the leaves blossomed, and in the summer on some of them I noticed some kind of “drawing”. Later I read on the Internet that this is a sign of the appearance of a nematode. Advise what should I do now: uproot a tree or can I somehow treat it?OOO "Sad" on The most dangerous diseases of the bark of fruit trees - photo, name and treatment. 2 part- In the photo - the effects of winter sunburn. Fungal diseases, including ulcers of black cancer, begin to develop on the dying crust. A preventive measure against sunburn is well known - this is the late fall whitewash of boles. If the disease, as in your case, has already manifested itself, in early spring, clean the wounds to healthy wood, disinfect with a solution of copper sulfate (20-30 g per 1 liter of water), cover with garden varnish and tie a natural cloth for a year.Olga on The most dangerous diseases of the bark of fruit trees - photo, name and treatment. 2 partBlack wounds were found on apple trees (2-3 per tree). Where the foci are older - there is no bark, the wood begins to deteriorate (see photo). What is it? How to fight ??OOO "Sad" on 3 the most common plum diseases, description and control of them - AGRONOM advises- The tree is hit by “pockets” of plums. This fungal disease (which also affects cherry plum, cherry, bird cherry) is especially active in a cool, moist, protracted spring. Spores of the fungus winter in the cracks of tree bark, branches and under the scales of the kidneys. And in the spring they infect flowers. The first signs of the disease appear approximately two weeks after flowering. The ovaries grow greatly, become light green, there are no bones - instead of it there is a cavity inside the fruit (“pocket”). Such plums are completely mild and inedible; their entire surface is covered in white fungal plaque. Later, the fruits turn brown, dry and fall, or remain on the tree and become moldy. Protection measures Spring treatment with copper-containing preparations is important: for example, Bordeaux liquid (before bud budding - 300 g per 10 l of water; before flowering - 100 g per 10 l of water), Abiga-Peak (according to instructions). Collect and destroy the affected fruit (bury it in the ground, burn it). Branches on which sick plums constantly develop, cut and also burn. Elena GORBUNOVA, Ph.D. biol. of sciencesTaisiya Gorelikova, city of Safonovo on 3 the most common plum diseases, description and control of them - AGRONOM advisesLast summer, they were left without plums: the fruits were elongated, became ugly, covered with white bloom. They didn’t even taste it ... What happened?Natalia on Snow retention on the site - how to do it and when it is necessary: expert adviceI never get tired of reminding about an important technique in the winter garden - snow retention, which many summer residents ignore. In the autumn I stock up on bundles of coarse stems and branches from pruning, several bags of straw and oak leaves. For example, a loose shelter from the stalks of a dolphinium or Jerusalem artichoke with snow on a bed with strawberries is a real “blanket” filled with air. The plants are much warmer under it than under the crushed snow. With a small amount of snow cover, I add dry oak leaves to the growing bed, where young plants overwinter. I try to do this in warm weather, so that at night the frost picks up the leaves (so their wind will not blow away). I cover with straw. In the spring, I send the leaves and straw to a compost pile, and just bury the bundles of stems in the aisles - by the next season there will be excellent nutrition for the plants. FACT: SNOW RETAINING BY BUNCHES OF DRY STEMS (FLOX. DELPHINIUM, TOPINAMBUR. Raspberries. CORN) EFFECTIVELY IN SITES WITH VARIABLE HEIGHTS. THEY DETAINED NOT ONLY THE SNOW, BUT AND MELT WATER. Running from the top of the plot to the low. The main thing is to lay down a dry cross-slope.Irina KOROZA on Flowers marigolds (photo) cultivation and reproductionIf you want a plot or balcony to be fragrant with paints all summer, plant marigolds (the most common are B. rejected, erect and thin-leaved)! The flower in Latin is called tagetes, in honor of one of the gods who taught people how to find treasures in the earth. The Spaniards who conquered Mexico, from where this plant spread throughout the world, indeed, often in those places where marigolds grew, precious metals were found. Seedlings grown in the house are planted in open ground only after the threat of frost has passed. Marigolds tolerate transplants very well at any age, even in the flowering phase, so you should not rush into this. Preferences and care Plants are undemanding to the composition of the soil, but still prefer humus-rich, light, permeable soil. When planting, overly moist, compacted, and oversaturated fertilizer soils should be avoided. Marigolds are especially sensitive to an excess of nitrogen: a green mass develops to the detriment of flowering, plants are more susceptible to diseases and pests. The flower is photophilous, although it grows well in partial shade, drought tolerant, but in dry, hot weather, I water it well. I regularly remove dry inflorescences, which contributes to the laying of new flower buds and more abundant flowering of bushes. If whitefly attacks tagetes, I treat it with Aktara, and with a tick, I use Fitoverm (according to instructions). NOTICE Many gardeners plant these flowers to protect vegetable crops, young fruit trees and shrubs from various pests. If possible, I “hook” seedlings into potato aisles to protect tubers from omnivorous worms. It is also very convenient to plant marigold plots with garden strawberries.Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Annual flowers - simple planting and careif you meet seedlings of this one-forest plant, buy without hesitation - you will not regret it. When the flower-stars of biden appear on the flowerbed, your legs themselves will carry you to a magnificent wonderful cloud! The plant is also called a ferulolate sequence. It begins to bloom, depending on the age of the seedlings, but more often in July and before frosts. And what a fragrance nearby! Next year, self-seeding can be found at the bidenza growth site, but this is subject to winter with good snow cover and without thaws. Therefore, it is better to play safe and collect seeds for the next season. True, if the plant is a varietal, the signs may not be repeated. Wintering conditions Usually, when I am lucky and buy a varietal bush in the garden center, I keep it cool in the winter and in the light with very weak watering (in an insulated loggia, where about + 8-12 deg.). I don’t care about its decorativeness during overexposure, because it is very difficult, special conditions are needed. The main thing is that the plant does not die. And in late February, young shoots begin to grow on the bush, which are cuttings and root in a light substrate. Summer care In the garden, the plant does not like flooding with water and shade. I prefer to grow bi-dens in containers, on the bottom of which I pour pieces of wood bark (instead of drainage). Above is the greenhouse-land of last year, it is quite light and nutritious, but not unnecessarily. As soon as flowering begins, the string can be fed with special fertilizer for blooming or liquid infusion of any manure (1:10), to which I add (to a 200-liter barrel) “Baikal M1” (0,5 l) + 1 l of old jam. I use infusion when fermenting. Then more flowers form. Shoots that go beyond the borders of the whole bush, I shorten, which is even useful for more magnificent flowering. Irina GORODKO, St. PetersburgValery NIKOLAEVICH on Seedlings - planting, growing and leaving from A to ZSalpiglossis seeds for seedlings are sown from the second half of January (if there is an agrolamp) until the beginning of April. And here is the result that can be obtained by the beginning of summer (pictured). I bought a varietal mix, but the buds of my favorites are only two colors. But there are many of them! What I love this handsome man for is the unique combination of shades in each flower! My secrets I plant seedlings in open ground when the threat of freezing frost passes, as a rule, this is the second half of May. I choose a well-lit area, protected from the wind. The soil should contain a large amount of humus, and its acidity may be neutral or slightly acidic. I prepare the place about a week before the intended work. I dig up the ground and, in addition to humus, bring in a little sand, peat and wood ash. I maintain a distance of 30 cm between the bushes. Planted plantlets are abundantly watered. In the heat of summer, it is important to moisten the flower. In the evening, it is better to spray the bushes. I use lukewarm water for irrigation. The surface of the soil is loosening. I remove fading buds in a timely manner. I feed several times a season with complex mineral fertilizer. NOTICE My favorite blooms for a long time - from late spring to late autumn. A marble pattern with veins of dark and golden tones appears on the surface of the petals, which always distinguishes this flower from the rest. The plant sometimes reaches a meter height!Lyudmila on Bladder (photos) types of planting and careIn my garden, there are a lot of bubble Diabolo with spectacular burgundy foliage - about 20 bushes. And every year I propagate them with cuttings. I would like to bring even more unusual color notes to the design! In June, I cut the vesicle, shortening young shoots by one third of the height. Of these, I form cuttings 10 cm long with three to five nodes. I remove the lower leaves completely, and cut the upper leaves in half. I lower the base of the shank into water, and then dust it with a root stimulant. I plant in an ordinary garden bed in partial shade. I cover with a 5-liter bottle with a cut bottom. I make sure that the earth does not dry out. When the young leaves begin to grow, I take off the shelter. But for the winter I return them again and additionally sprinkle with fallen leaves. In a permanent place, rooted cuttings are planted in the spring.Natalya POPOVICH on Hop (photo) planting and reproductionBehind my fence is an old groomed garden. All the weeds that grow there, encroach on my possessions. I struggle with them with varying success. But there is one plant that, alas, wins the battle. As soon as the spring sun warms the earth a little, it immediately “pops out” of the earth and rapidly develops. This hop is a very smart and tenacious vine. She "feels the gut", where there is support, and directs the stems to her. An interesting detail - the plant braids the fence only clockwise. Hop is a dioecious plant, which means it has male and female specimens. You can distinguish them during flowering. The flower in the male is modest and, after flowering, is completely showered. Feminine blooms in clusters, from which cones are then formed. They are covered with yellow droplets. You touch such a bunch and yellow pollen will sprinkle from it. The aggressor neighbor took control. She fenced the roots by digging pieces of slate into the soil. I cut off the extra shoots during the season. She noticed that hops grow better on moist soil and tend to join the sprays that form thickets. They say the plant has healing properties. But do not forget that it is poisonous. Even pests do not risk them to regale themselves.Galina on How to properly prepare flower seeds for planting next yearAubrietta is my favorite groundcover. Planted a beautiful woman under a young fruit bush. Literally in a year it has turned into a bright flowering "carpet"! Blooms twice a season. The first time - from late April to mid-June, and the second - from the end of August one hundred to the beginning of October. In order to stimulate a second wave of magnificent flowering, I cut the obrista at the end of June to the level of the soil. But in the autumn I do not touch, it should winter with leaves. Seeds were sown dry immediately in the open ground in the first half of summer. The place was picked up open, sunny, elevated. The seed was scattered over the soil surface and covered with a thin layer of wet sand. The poorer the soil, the better for obrietta. In the nutrient, it blooms sparsely. But the land must be loose, well-drained, with the addition of ash. He loves the plant and the close presence of stone, especially limestone. Several times during the summer I pour sand under the "rug" as mulch. I practically do not water the plantings, but pamper them with evening sprinkling. Aubrietta transplant does not tolerate well. Several times she tried to settle dug up curtains under other bushes. But they all died. Maybe the readers of "Flower" have a good experience in this matter?Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Elimination of tulips for 8 March - expert adviceSo that the tulip bulbs do not go deep or grow smaller, and so that in the next season the flowers remain large, I dig every year after yellowing the leaves of the plant. I dry the bulbs well and store in a ventilated place with a temperature of up to + 25 degrees, until autumn. I land in late September. As an experiment, you can also plant tulips in small groups in special baskets or other containers and drop them in the garden with them - then the bulbs will not go into the depths. And digging up overgrown nests will be much more convenient!Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on The scheme of fertilizing flowers - MEMORY - gardeners-floristIn early June, I am preparing universal dressing for flowers and vegetable plants. In a tank (200 l) I put grass after weeding the garden (wood lice, quinoa, nettle), fresh vegetable peeling, a bucket of horse or cow manure, eggshell. When the mass fills half of the tank, add water so that it slightly covers the contents. I cover the tank with a film or a lid. I leave the waste to roam for 20-30 days. Then I dilute the infusion as follows: add a half-liter of liquid from the tank to a bucket of water (10 l). Scooping a bucket of infusion for feeding, add the same amount of water to the tank. The contents again leave to wander until the next feeding. I water all the flowers with such infusion two to three times a month, and vegetables once or twice a month, alternating with other purchased preparations for feeding vegetables.OOO "Sad" on Roses of David Austin - favorite varieties (photo)- Since the rose is grafted to you, shoots of wild shoots often appear below the grafting site and from the roots, which differ from the cultivated plant by finer foliage, and sometimes prickly. It develops very quickly and weakens the vaccination of the variety, which can lead to its death, as a result of which the bush "runs wild." The formation of wild shoots is facilitated by poorly compacted soil during planting, freezing of the bush, leading to the death of the grafted variety, damage to the roots when sloughing the soil loose and improper removal of the root shoot. WILD BRANCH SHOULD BE CUT TO AT THE BEGINNING OF ITS APPEARANCE. FOR THIS IT IS NECESSARY TO DIGGER THE SOIL AROUND THE APPEARED ESCAPE AND CUT IT FROM THE MOST BASIS. REMEMBER, if you cut off the shoots at the level of the soil, on the contrary, it will stimulate its growth - the stock will already give several "wilds" from the buds located underground. After removing the unwanted shoot, the soil must be returned to its place, compacted and watered. If at the end of the adult stem of a rose instead of a bud a spike-like bloating forms - this is a “blind” shoot. Most often this happens due to frostbite, lack of nutrients in the soil or poor lighting. This shoot should be cut half the length to a healthy kidney (5 mm above it), and soon it will form a normal flower. Anatoly Savchenko, owner of the nursery, p. Evdokimovka, Stavropol Territory.Olga Ignatushko on Roses of David Austin - favorite varieties (photo)When I bought Austin's rose, they warned me that it was necessary to cut the shoot. And why do this? And why do roses have shoots on the top of which flowers do not form?OOO "Sad" on Gladiolus flowering dates - early, medium and late- Inflorescences can break down with an unbalanced nutrition of gladiolus, and this usually happens with an excess of nitrogen. The flower stalk becomes weak, sparse, the distance between the buds increases. "Overfed" flowers gain more mass than expected, as a result of the peduncle does not stand and breaks. Therefore, you should follow the recommendations for feeding these flowers. By the way, there is a drug for the strength of the stem - "Siliplant". It contains trace elements in a chelated form with silicon, which increases the strength of peduncles. Tamara LAZAREVICH, collector of gladioli, Zheleznogorsk-Ilimsk, Irkutsk regionSummerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on Gladiolus flowering dates - early, medium and lateLast season I had a problem with gladioli - when the flowers began to bloom, the flower stalk broke and fell. Is it a disease or improper cultivation? Irina Simankova, PskovOOO "Sad" on How to prepare the seeds of your flowers?- The fact is that if the seeds are ripe, but not dried on the uterine plant, they are able to germinate quickly. This property is used to receive primrose seedlings, bathing pots, kandyks and some other species in the same season, the seed material of which ripens in early summer. If you give the seeds the opportunity to dry on the plant, they will go into a protective state of dormancy, from which it is much more difficult to get them out. In addition, in seed of some, often rare, plants, germination is reduced after drying. Natalya DANILOVA, biologistSummerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous) on How to prepare the seeds of your flowers?Why is it advised to sow seeds freshly harvested? Is it that important? Veronika YuvchenkoOOO "Sad" on Berezkin (photo) planting and caring for questions and answers- Evergreen euonymos are most often propagated by root offspring, layering, less often - cuttings or grafting. The root siblings are dug up in the spring and transplanted to a permanent place, with good care (shading and timely moistening) this can be done in June. To obtain layering, the shoots of the mother plant are covered with soil (this can be done during the season), after which they are easily rooted. A daughter bush with a developed root system is cut off with secateurs and transplanted to a selected location. Dwarfish and Japanese euonymus can be grafted onto European B., then we get a decorative weeping form, which will need to be taken care of in the fall so that it does not freeze. In June-July, young elastic cuttings 4-6 cm long are cut for cuttings of the euonymus. Rooted in a film greenhouse or under a cropped plastic bottle. Cuttings are planted in a fertile substrate, consisting of sheet soil and sand (3: 1), also sprinkled with 3-5 cm sand on top. In the garden, these euonymos prefer fertile and slightly alkaline soil, they do not like stagnant moisture. If the soil is acidic, lime must be added. Open areas are selected for planting, because decorativeness is reduced in the shade of variegated varieties - the branches do not grow as thick as in the sun, and the color becomes pale. Alla KUKLINA, Cand. biol. Sciences, Moscow.