Subzimney sowing. How and what to sow
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Winter (winter) sowing
In November, the whole harvest has already been collected, there are not many works in the garden and it is possible to start the next season. Sow the winter vegetables and greens, and in the spring you have a chance to get the first harvest.
For podzimnego sowing, only cold-resistant crops are used. These are plants in which the leaves do not have a characteristic pubescence, which protects them from heat. In autumn, you can safely sow root crops - carrots, beets, except for early-ripening radishes, as well as onions, parsley, celery, dill and other umbelliferous or celery plants.
In spring sowing, these crops are planted somewhere in a month. This is due to the fact that their seeds are impregnated with essential oil, which prevents penetration of moisture. Podzimnii sowing will significantly benefit time: sprouts will appear earlier, and since cold-resistant crops tolerate frosts well, the yield is the same. So, parsley greens can be harvested in April, and the beam production of carrots - in May. If we use
greenhouses, or, even better, cover the shoots with film or agrovoloknom, then in May you can get fresh table beet
TIME TO SOW
The important point in the wintering seasons is to choose the correct landing time. The seeds must be put in time,
but do not sprout. Therefore, on the one hand, it is impossible to delay the landing, because it will be difficult to do this if the soil freezes deep, and on the other hand, if you hurry, the seeds will have time to germinate and become frozen.
First of all, the sowing time is determined depending on the climatic zone. In the southern regions, planting is done later than in the northern regions. The general recommendation for the central and northern regions is the second decade of October, when the ground begins to freeze by 2-3 cm. In the south, it is better to start sowing not earlier than the third decade of October. However, if weather conditions are favorable, you can sow in early October and November.
READY SOIL
All cold-resistant crops like loose soil, so when digging, do not forget to add to the ground baking powder (sand, sawdust), mixing them with completely overripe humus. With the introduction of fresh humus, the seeds can begin to rot. Before sowing for the winter, you need to take care of soil fertilization with nutrients - it's best to use organic, and when sowing you can use phosphorus fertilizers.
For planting choose dry and sheltered from the northern winds places with an even relief. In unfavorable conditions - with a high level of groundwater, in lowlands and in places where it sways a lot of snow, it is necessary to use warm ridges.
The snow melts faster on them, and the seeds are protected from excess moisture. In the same cases it is necessary to mulch the beds. Using film or agrovolokno, leave for the plant slits, and the aisle is covered to prevent the emergence of weeds.
When the saddle is planted, the planting is done a little deeper than the usual sowing, but not more than 1 cm. Naturally, it is impossible to soak seeds before sowing and treat them with substances that stimulate sprouting. Sowing rates are the same as in spring, although they can be increased. The soil for winter is not needed to cover.
WE ARE CARING FOR INJURIES
In the early spring after emergence of sprouting, thinning is performed. This is very convenient, because at this time of work in the country is a bit. If the plants have risen very early, you can cover them with a film or, even better, with an agrobus that lets in air (you can not be afraid
overheating) and does not require a skeleton. In the future it is only necessary to water the plants and break through the weeds. You can feed sprouts with complex organic fertilizers. If significant sifts are visible, the sowing of plots is allowed. Subzimney sowing is often combined with additional spring sowing.
Of pests for podzimnih crops most dangerous moles. To combat them, ultrasonic barriers, smoke bombs and special repelling pellets are used. In the rest, thanks to the early vegetation of plants, it is possible to avoid attacks of dangerous pests and growth of weeds. The only problem may be aphids, but outbreaks occur at a time when most of the crop is already formed. Occasionally, the plant is damaged by decay, in which case it is necessary to simply remove the affected shoots.
Under winter, it is better to sow those crops that do not work, for a number of reasons, to grow on a plot during normal sowing. For example, carrots, sown in the spring, even with good watering and care in the hot and dry summer gives a small crop. If you sow it under the winter, in most cases you can expect a good result. The same and with dill, in the spring the sun burns green sprouts, and at podzimnem seva in the spring it is possible to receive juicy greens. The main thing is to select high-quality dragee and etched seeds. They do not sprout immediately, because they must first dissolve the film, which is covered. It is she who protects the seeds, preventing premature shoots.
It is worth noting that it is impossible to predict the results of sowing in advance. If there are no shoots before the beginning of May, then on the ground it is necessary to conduct repeated sowing. In the southern regions, a successful or unsuccessful podzimnem seva can be judged already in the first days of April. In any case, podzimnii sowing is an excellent opportunity to remove the early harvest with minimal effort and financial investments.
SEEDS FOR SOWING
NORMAL BURDEN
This bed can be used for the sub-winter planting of vegetables and herbs in the southern regions.
WARM SILENT
From the trench the soil is chosen, instead a layer of horse, sheep and goat manure with a thickness of 30-40 cm is laid. Top 20-30 cm of fertile soil is topped and watered abundantly. Then ridge mulch. The rotting ingredients give heat to the earth, into which seeds can be sown.
Basic crops for the sub-winter planting
Celery
This crop prefers loose and humus-rich soils. It is better to place the crop in open and bright areas. The earth is dug up to a depth of 25-30 cm. A wide-row sowing according to the scheme of 45 × 10 cm to a depth of 2 cm is recommended.
Beetroot
Table beets are sown where no organic fertilizers were introduced for a year or two. At the same time, the culture reacts well to mineral fertilizers. As in the case of carrots, the soil is dug to a depth of 25-30 cm. Beet grows before other crops, so it is better to sow it on 7-10 days later than the others - in late October-November. The depth of sowing is 3 cm, the distance between the seeds is left 7-8 cm, between the rows - 25 cm.
Carrots
When preparing soil, the ground is dug to a depth of 25-30 cm, if the depth of the nutrient layer is not enough, use ridges. Carrots are suitable fertile soils, so it is worth using rotten humus, peat or compost. Before sowing, you can add superphosphate. Seeds are sown in grooves with a depth of 3-4 cm, covered with earth for 1 cm, and then put peat or humus layer 2-3 cm. The distance between the rows is left 20 cm.
Bow
When preparing the soil, organic and mineral fertilizers are used. In autumn, the onion is planted on the "turnip", to a depth of 3-5 cm and at a distance of 10-12 cm. When the onion is planted under winter for the "feather", the depth and distance between the filament will be 2-3 cm. In the phase of two real leaves, the onion is broken through 5 see
Garlic
Winter garlic is planted with teeth and bulbots. Large teeth placed at a depth of 5-7 cm, bulb - at 2 cm for 2-3 weeks before freezing. Between rows leave 20-25 see. The soil is fertilized with compost, before planting - ash. In heavy soils, sand is introduced. If the land is loose, the bed should be dug in advance.
Parsley and dill
As in the case of carrots, parsley needs fertile soil, fertilized with humus, peat or compost. On the beds it is desirable to use a mulching layer. The depth of sowing is 2 cm, the distance between the rows is 10-12, see. In order to accelerate the emergence of shoots in the spring, the crops are covered with a transparent film and removed immediately after the appearance of the shoots. A similar method is sown dill.
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- How to distinguish the southern seedling from the local seedlings (zoned)
- Re-planting vegetables - how and when?
- Plant cuttings and preparations for it (stimulants and phytohormones)
- Arrangement of a new site and planting a young garden
- Sealed plantings of vegetables - schemes and compatibility
- How to prevent carrots and cabbage from cracking and rotting potatoes
- How to properly remove and save potatoes. The Senikation.
- Shelf life and labeling of seeds - getting ready for the new season
- Works in July at the dacha, flower garden, garden, vegetable garden
- Natural protection (immunity) of plants
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In order not to fall from the feet of fatigue in the spring, when there is so much work, I plant some vegetables late in the autumn and on the days of the February thaw.
Someone can say that this is a risk, and will be right - the weather has recently been capricious. But for 8 years I have never been without a crop. And I clean it early and after sowing this place other vegetables. As a result, I get several crops from a single bed, and plants of podzimnyh crops are more resistant, less affected by diseases and pests.
What shall we sow?
At the end of October, for garlic, I cut a groove with a plane cut into the depth of 8-10 cm, at a distance of 10 cm from each other I plant teeth, compact the earth and cover with a thin layer of mulch.
At the same time, I plant a multi-tiered onion: it is cold, very early, its greens for a long time remain juicy and beautiful, do not become bitter. Bulbs I plant tightly to each other (since I will clean it in early spring, and it does not need much space) to a depth equal to two head diameters. I choose about the same size.
Pasternak, parsley, leaf celery, spinach, leek, lettuce I sow at the end of autumn - early winter during a steady cooling off already on the frozen ground. For parsnip, parsley and spinach, cut the grooves with a depth of 3-4 cm, for celery - 1-1,5 cm (its seeds are very small, and if sown deeply, they can not ascend) and hardly sprinkle with earth or compost.
For leeks, on the contrary, grooves should be deep - 10-12 cm. After sowing, I only fall asleep halfway, and then as I grow up I throw the ground, tk. To obtain a long white stalk of the leeks, it is necessary to constantly heal. Seeds of lettuce spread evenly over the surface of the soil and slightly sprinkled with earth.
Seeds of carrots, beets, dill and peas sow only in the February "windows" (thaw). If you sow them earlier, and the autumn drags on, the seeds will sprout, and then die after the first frost. Carrots (I take an early cold-resistant varieties) and beets (usually sown Bordeaux 237 early cold-resistant varieties nestrelkuyuschegosya) cut into the groove depth of 2,5-3 cm, and the seeds of dill and peas scatter over the surface, lightly covered with earth.
Before the onset of frost, I harvest the fertile soil, then to sprinkle the crops (store it in the non-freezing room). I cut the groove with a flat-groove and, so that they do not swim from the rain, I cover with boards, spunbond or film. Before sowing the shelter I clean.
Autumn sowing begins in late October. By this time on a sunny spot where water does not stagnate, I have already prepared beds: in them I close the grass sediment after summer "green" feeding and not later than two weeks before planting I shed a solution of EM-preparation and Fitosporin (according to 1 st.l on 10 liters of water).
Seyu is sparse, so that shoots do not interfere with each other. Only to parsnip thicken, tk. he has poor germination. In spring, superfluous sprouts, like beets, are transplanted to another place.
I cover the seedbed after sowing with a spunbond, and then with a layer of mulch. In the spring I remove the shelter.
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What else to sow?
Seeds of many plants are not only possible, but also need to be planted under winter. So they go through a natural natural cycle of development. Some seeds have a shell, which gradually breaks down under the influence of soil moisture and temperature changes. Sown in the spring, they simply can not germinate without pre-treatment.
Unlike bulbous plants, which need to have time to germinate and form the root system before the onset of stable cold weather, spring plants have to germinate in the spring. Therefore, they are sown in October - early November. It is possible to sow even in the frozen soil, covering the holes with stored loose soil and peat. Before winter, vegetables and greens can be used to sow carrots, beets, dill, radishes, and parsley.
For better wintering, planting material should be slightly moistened and placed in a jar. Then powder them with a mixture of sifted humus, dried mullein and peat. If desired, you can add 10 g superphosphate. After this, the jar should be shaken gently.
Sowing depth in autumn is typical for this type of seed. On top of the planting, you can additionally mulch peat and humus, in the spring, after the snow melts, the mulch must be removed. By the way, in the winter you can sow flowers - asters, cornflowers, cosmea.
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Preparing the soil for the sowing season
In September, it's time to prepare the soil for planting winter crops.
In autumn I plant winter garlic, I sow a small amount of green cultures: onions, spinach, sorrel, parsley, dill. Often I sow under the winter and beets, because I really love its leaves as early greens (in the spring, a lot of green shooters form in the root crop, they go to food). I do not forget about the flower garden. I prefer to plant unpretentious flowers: delphinium and gypsophila.
The best predecessors for garlic and onions are cucumbers, beans, early potatoes. During the time from harvesting to planting garlic in the garden, the siderates may well grow: white mustard, rapeseed. Their tender greens, embedded in the soil during the subsequent digging, will serve as an excellent fertilizer.
Before planting, I release the beds from plant debris, weed out the weeds along with the roots. The soil is loosening shallow so as not to disturb the structure. I bring in potash, phosphoric fertilizers, and organic fertilizers - completely prepared humus. I harvest a small amount of sand, peat or loose humus in advance. They will be needed to sprinkle seeds and mulch the topsoil.
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The main idea of the sub-sowing is to sow in such a time that the seeds in front of stable frosts can only swell or penetrate, but the length of the seedlings should not exceed 1 cm, otherwise the plants may die. Therefore, in modern climatic conditions, and even more so in a thaw, it is very difficult to guess the correct time of the sub-winter planting.
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In the autumn, did not have time to plant vegetables for the winter. Is it possible to do this in a thaw? After all, the last winters were quite warm. What are the optimal timing of podzimnih crops?
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Winter sowing - Excellent, germination of perennials
I'm engaged in growing flowers for about ten years.
A podzimnim seeding only four years. The seasons were very different in weather conditions, but I believe that I can draw certain conclusions.
I make crops in wooden boxes 30 × 60 cm, 15 cm high. In each box I set a tag with the number of the box, mark the rows of crops with varieties of plastic sticks - they do not get wet and do not rot. Annuals I mark with white sticks, perennials with blue. In the notebook I enter the number of the box and the list of seeded crops. Sowing I produce from left to right, I put the tag with the number on the left. And now, no matter how the box is, I will never mix the varieties. After sowing, I lay the rails on the boxes, cover with a film on top, and pour snow on it. So leave until spring.
It is very important to sow seeds only in dry land. The film protects the earth from moisture. After all, there are thaws in winter, seeds can germinate. and all the work will be lost. And in the spring, as soon as snow begins to melt, I take off the film. I throw snow in the boxes. It gradually melts, and the seeds receive the necessary moisture.
Very well reproduce by sowing for the winter strawberries and strawberries. Germination 90%. Early varieties already in August give the first harvest. Remarkably, all spicy cultures and herbs are emerging.
Excellent germination in perennials: gaylard. Gravilite, Arabian, Verbaskuma. Ibe-rice, soap, nivian. lavenders, anguhs, violas. perennial phlox, foxglove, aquilegia, evening primrose. Many annuals are lion's pharynx. astra (especially, light colors), adonis, chrysanthemum, clark-kiya, calendula, eschol-tion - also sprout together. Weak germination at podzimnem sowing in sedum. hyssop. Yarrow, hypsophila, bells of undersized.
From vegetable cultures, celery sprinkles well. Cabbage red, tomato "Persimmon", physalis, radish, turnips, scorzonera.
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It is very difficult sometimes to determine the timing of sowing, especially since in different localities they do not coincide. And in one district in different winters, the result may not be the same as desired. For example, they sowed everything as usual, on time, but the autumn was too warm, and the seeds sprouted, and at the first frost plants died. Or if the winter is a little snowy, frosty, and you do not have to hide the crops
Possibilities, most likely, seeds are sown in vain - there will not be a crop.
In addition, the harvest from the sub-winter planting is not subject to long-term storage. So is it worth it to deal with?
Pros and cons
I have long since abandoned the sub-winter crops. In July - early August, sow parsley, sorrel. They even rise to frost, grow, grow stronger, normally winter
without shelter. And in the spring immediately grow. Early greens give chives, and then onion-baton. My neighbor leaves to winter carrots in the beds, hides with bilberry, and in the spring digs out excellent root crops for spring salads. But dill she sows under winter, but very late - just before the cold. I also know a few summer residents who, planting onion onion-sowok, cut spring greens in the spring, sell it and have a good income. Yes, they have to go to the site, cover the onion with a bough in a snowless winter, but their worries are justified by the money they receive in the spring. Therefore, each in its own right, because different climatic conditions give different results.
If you still decide, then you need the following. Place for sub-winter crops is prepared in advance. Select high areas with loose fertile soil, which quickly dry up and warm up in the spring. Ridge dig, fertilize, and when the ground is frozen, and only slightly thawed during the day, make furrows depth 3-4 cm and sown dry (!) Seeds of carrots, parsley, beets, radishes, lettuce, fennel, spinach and onion set. The density of sowing is a controversial thing, in fact experts recommended earlier to increase the number of seeds in comparison with spring sowing, but recently I hear quite often that in the early spring the thickened shoots depress themselves. The bed from the formation of the soil crust and the conservation of moisture in the land are mulched with peat or humus. Early in the spring it is covered with a film, and when the sprouts appear, the soil is loosened.
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Immediately after harvesting, I clean the vegetable garden of plant residues. Sick plants burn, and I put healthy in compost. I put the beds in a well-lit place that does not fill the meltwater. The site is dug to the depth of the bayonet bayonet, sealing 3-5 kg of humus and 20-30 g nitrofoski on 1 sq.m. Seeds of green crops and root crops are planted in late October - early November, after autumn frosts. So they will not have time to germinate before the winter.
I sow a little deeper than in spring. Soil slightly moisturize. Where there are arranged rows, put a label (so that loosening between rows spring does not damage the crops) and mulch layer of peat 3-4 cm. Before planting garlic (receive large teeth) and onion set (bulblets diameter up 1 cm) pad spill pink solution of potassium permanganate. I plant strictly down to the depth of 2-3 cm from the surface of the soil to the top of the bulb. Then I do not water the beds, but only mulch peat.
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Podzimny sowing: for or against?
For some gardeners podzimnius sowing is an obligatory autumn work, while others consider it too troublesome and useless. We will listen to both sides.
A bed of garlic (I change it every year, never plant after an onion) dig in a month, so that the earth will settle down. Just before planting itself, at the end of September and beginning of October, I fill it all over its length with humus. The rib of the shovel cut the grooves across the bed. With a wand I make grooves in 8-10 cm, I lay ash in the holes, river sand, superphosphate and I plant tooth-
chick garlic (I select the best specimens), I fill it with sand, then cover it with humus.
On the Spring, as soon as the earth dries slightly, I loosen the soil and feed the garlic with urea (1 st.l. on Yul water). In the beginning of June I inject nitrophosphate, and in the beginning of July - superphosphate (1 st.l on 10 l of water on moist soil). AT
the first days of July I shovel the earth from the bulbs so that they are better filled. In the summer 3-4 times I loosen rows between rows. In the drought I water, I cut off the arrows. I pass them through a meat grinder and add to a bowl of soup, salads - for those who love spicy, this seasoning is very good. Garlic grows powerful: the head weighs 80-90 g, and the stems to my waist. I'm cleaning up
it in the beginning of August, digging in with pitchforks. If the weather permits, on 2-3 days I leave to dry on the bed. I carry it to the barn, where it lies until late autumn. Then I store in the attic of the house, sheltering warm things with the onset of cold weather. And even in the spring my garlic is as fresh!
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After listening to such questions, I decided to conduct an experiment. Of the podzimnih plantings, I only know garlic, which I planted for many years. But I have a summer residence and a desire to experiment. For the first experiment, I chose a black bow and carrots.
At the end of September, he introduced humus, dug up the area, made grooves with the help of a chopper, prepared light loosened ground to fill the seeds (he put it in an iron barrel and put it in a shed) and waited for deep frosts. Came the real cold, I put the seeds in the grooves and fell asleep with soil from the barrel. And on top of a small layer of humus poured.
I had to plant one more crop before winter: when I discovered that the onion picks were very rotten, I was afraid that he would not survive until spring. He planted it in a greenhouse, covered it with layers of soil (5 cm) and humus (10 cm). I chose the landing day, focusing on last fall and the lunar calendar - it turned out the first decade of October. As it turned out later, I was in a hurry. Autumn was protracted and abnormally warm. The bow has risen
made his way through the shelter and climbed 10 cm. I did not dare to cover the greenhouse with film and take the crop, cut off the green feathers and put them in the freezer. And the next day it snowed ...
In the spring, the greenhouse where the onion was planted, I freed from the layer of humus and covered it with film. To be honest, I thought that the bow had long since disappeared. To my surprise, it began to grow in harmony, and after three weeks the pen reached its maturity (and this despite the fact that I did not apply any "chemistry", I poured only two times with warm water). The onions were cleaned and blessed.
safely sent to the market - a little, but a help for the family budget.
Onions sown under the winter by seeds gave amicable shoots two weeks earlier than a colleague planted in the spring. Approximately the same result showed and carrots. These "winter" as I grew up I pulled, knitted in bundles and also sent to the market. When the pen began to dry up, I stopped pulling onions and carrots.
In the fall, I removed the remnants of the onions to the north. I must admit, it turned out to be excellent - with a diameter of up to 1 cm and the whole as a carbon copy, much better than the seed from spring sowing. But the carrots grew ugly. Why? Apparently, from the fact that the autumn crops of onions and carrots were alternated by 5 grooves, and I watered the plot for a long time ...
Hence the conclusion: carrots planted under the winter, you can water in the spring, but not for long.
I have already prepared a site for the sub-sowing of onions on a feather from seeds. Sowed parsley, lettuce, sorrel, coriander.