How to make a composition for whitewashing and whitewash trees in the country
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The correct whitewash of garden trees
Some novice gardeners believe that whitewashing garden trees is an empty occupation. Well, then walk barefoot in the cold. Or stand on the hot sand. Does not work? And the trees in the garden all year round are standing in the snow, then under the scorching sun. So help will not hurt them.
Painting works
For whitewashing, I'm preparing such a solution. I took six liters of water for two kilograms of quicklime and one kilogram of fatty clay. Everything is thoroughly stirred and added skim milk (I got it on a dairy farm).
Milk is needed for the mixture to adhere well to the bark of trees.
Autumn whitewash, as a rule, is carried out in November, after all trees are thrown off the leaves. It is important that at this time there was dry weather, and the air temperature did not exceed 3 ° of heat.
Before whitewashing, I laid polyethylene film around the trunks, cleared the trunks and branches from the old dead bark, foreign growths, moss and lichen. For this I use a construction spatula and a wire brush, I do it carefully so that the old bark does not scrape off the living bark. But if the wounds are still formed, I immediately cover it with a garden fume. After the cleaning procedures, the main process begins. I bleed with a paint brush in two layers. By then I paint the entire stem and the beginning of the skeletal branches. The size of the brush depends on the thickness of the trunk. But this is a matter of convenience, of course, thick trees are not easy, and for a long time, whiten with a small brush. But my neighbors generally use a spray gun. But they have a large garden, and this way it will take much more whitewash.
Prevent pests
During winter thaws, I had to repeat whitewashing several times, especially from the south side (the sun and rains simply lick the chalk to the bark). Spring is coming, and in late March - early April I will have another whitewash. It is important to be in time in time so that the earth is not very warmed up, and the first leaves do not bloom. The fact is that harmful insects could winter in the bark (it was also free for them under a layer of whitewash), and with the advent of heat, all sorts of insects also move from the ground to move to the tree. Need to get ahead of them.
Therefore, for the spring whitewash in the solution, I must add copper sulfate for disinfection.
The proportion of the composition is as follows: on 10 l of the ready clay-lime mortar I take 300 g of copper sulfate. In addition to pests, this mixture protects trees and diseases. I want to say that my whitewashing has benefited my trees. They well suffered the winter, bloomed abundantly and awarded me a splendid harvest. Yes, and I really liked how my little garden looks like now.
Tips
- Young trees whiten are not recommended until they enter the period of fruiting. Instead of whitewashing, they are covered with woven materials for the winter. In no case should you cover with a film!
- Before the whitewashing of the trees, all the cracks and wounds are carefully covered with garden fume. It is sold in garden stores, but you can prepare medicinal putty even at home. For this, melted 200 g of wax and rosin, add 100 g of vegetable oil and cool, pouring the mixture into cold water.
Preparation of a mixture for whitewashing your own hands
Readers complain about the quality of whitewash for garden trees - often in the store you can buy some white clay dissolved in water. What to do if you are faced with dishonesty of the manufacturer?
For whitewashing of fruit trees, you can use not only a special garden whitewash, but also white paint. When buying, choose such a paint, which includes antiseptic additives, as well as 10-15% glue in the total volume (against the washing away of paint late autumn rains). It is advisable that the packaging should indicate that the colorful layer is breathable.
In order not to doubt the quality of the product, we recommend to prepare a mixture for whitewashing yourself.
There are many different recipes. The main thing is that they should have three main components: white dye (lime, chalk), glue (PVA, clay, milk, laundry soap), disinfecting and preventive substances (copper sulphate, manure, litter, etc.).
Ingredients can choose almost any of those listed in parentheses, their compatibility is approximately the same.
Option 1.
Take 1 kg of hydrated lime, 200 g (sachet) of copper sulphate, 1 kg of manure or chicken manure and 8 l of water (slightly less than a bucket). All this is thoroughly mixed and allowed to stand for about 1 h. The prepared mixture is ready for use.
Option 2.
Take 2-2,5 kg of slaked lime, 250-300 g of copper sulfate, 1 kg of fatty clay, 1-2 shovels of cow dung, add water, bringing the volume to 10 l. All this is well mixed until a homogeneous mass is obtained. Finished whitewash should have a consistency of cream or sour cream. When applied to the trunk, whitewash should not drain from it. If it flows, then it is not thick enough. Addition of lime and clay it is brought to the desired consistency.
Option 3.
At 10l of water -2,5 kg of hydrated lime, 1 kg of clay and 0,5 kg of copper sulfate. To whitewash was not washed away by rain, add to its composition 10% office or carpentry glue.
Why bleach?
Many people think that our grandmothers whitewashed trees "for beauty", but we don’t need. However, whitewashing performs much more important functions than just pleases the eye. On frosty and bright winter days, the bark can get burns from the sun's rays, which increase their effect by reflecting from the snow. And at the end of winter, sharp temperature changes occur (sunny days - frosty nights), as a result of which frost cracks in the crust occur. Whitewashing is able to protect against burns and frost pits, since it reflects light, respectively, bleached trunks and shoots are heated less than dark ones.
But that's not all. Whitewash protects the tree from moss and lichen, kills pests that winter in the bark and spores of pathogens. It is necessary to whiten not only the trunk, but also the forks and bases of large branches.
When to whiten?
This can be done in October-November, when the autumn showers will end (otherwise they will wash some of the whitewash) and the air temperature will drop to minus 2-3 °.
A. MIKHEEV, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences
Do-it-yourself whitewashing of trees - tips and reviews
How I Blossom the Fruit Trees
Before whitewashing, I perform other sanitary work, for example, cleaning the trunk, disinfection, healing the wounds of the tree. Then the garden is not afraid of pests and bugs.
To clean the barrel, I use a homemade sponge from the twine, folding it into several layers. So you can clean the trunk of moss and lichens, without damaging the bark itself. I like to take care of trees in damp weather, when there is a feeling that the bark is well saturated with moisture. Cracks and grooves I process with a wooden or plastic tool, not using iron tools. Before I start cleaning, I lay a thick cloth under the tree so that everything peeled off the barrel would get there, and not to the ground. Then everything that I clean off the trunks, I burn away from the garden.
Clearing the trunks, I disinfect them well. For what? Yes, in order to decontaminate those wounds that were already on the tree bark, and the entire surface of the trunk, so that new infections do not start to develop.
The most effective and cheapest option for disinfecting the bark is a solution of soap and ash. I sift about 3 kg of ash and dilute it in 10 liters of hot water, adding 50-60 g of ordinary laundry soap to the solution. I wash the trunk with this solution while it is still hot.
Chemistry I try not to use, because it has the property of accumulating in the soil, and then passes into the cortex, adversely affecting the health of the tree, and our family.
When I finished disinfecting the trunk, it's time to cover up the wounds of the tree. You can buy "Garden Var" in the store, or you can do it yourself, especially since the ingredients are very easy to find. I use wood tar and linseed oil. For 400 g of resin, 2 tablespoons of oil are needed. I mix these simple ingredients and apply them to the wounds. This mixture is perfectly stored and retains its properties in any weather - I advise!
Turning to the main procedure, I try to whitewash the trees as high as possible, sometimes even grabbing the lower branches. Young trees I whitewash almost completely.
This is the only way to protect them from temperature changes. I plant in 10 liters of water 2,5 kg of lime, 300 g of copper sulfate for additional disinfection and about a kilogram of clay. Such a solution fits well on the tree trunk.
Whitewash to full whiteness, thin whitewash will not give protection.
© Author: Ulyanova DV Omsk Region
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- Subzimney sowing. How and what to sow
- Watering and combating drought
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- We choose and buy a New Year's tree in the pot - care and subsequent transplantation into the ground
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In autumn the trees whitewashed. But everywhere they write to repeat whitewashing. It is necessary?
Anna Shkurko
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In February, the phase of natural rest in fruit trees is replaced by a phase of forced rest. At this time, the sun heats the trunks and branches, which can trigger the beginning of the vegetation of the cortex. At night, due to a sharp drop in temperature, the water, which has fallen into small cracks, freezes and destroys the bark. Especially it is dangerous for trees from which winter rains washed away whitewash. The trunks of such trees reflect little of the sun's rays, they heat up during the day. As a result, the plant receives a solar-thermal burn. Therefore, in the second half of February I advise you to re-whitewash trunks and branches. Do it better at a temperature of at least + 5 degrees. In a bucket of water (Yul) dilute 2-2,5 kg of freshly lime and add 0,4-0,5 kg of copper sulfate previously dissolved in water. For better adhesion to the mortar, add 1-2 st. milk or 1-2 tbsp. flour pastry.
Raisa MATVEEVA
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As a chemistry teacher and gardener with experience, I advise: in the spring, buy a bag (2 g) of quicklime and pour it into a bucket of water (i.e. put it out). The next day, make the solution - as thick as a heavy cream, and whiten. Will keep for a long time!
N.I. KONOVALOV.
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Wounds on the trunks of fruit trees, caused by a strong temperature drop, depending on the size can lead not only to the disease, but also to the death of the plant. We call these cracks ice cold, but in fact, it's like this: the day sun on one side of the barrel warms up the juices, the night cold freezes them, the formed liquid crystals break the wood. Therefore, it is so important to protect the barrel from heat and frost.
I use the simplest "grandfather" method - whitewash trunks. I dissolve 3 kg of lime in a bucket of water. To whitewash, drying out, not falling off and not being washed away by the rain, add 1 cup of wallpaper glue (you can cook home paste; take 1 cup of flour or starch in 1 liter of water and stir constantly to prevent lumps).
Whitewashing will protect from sunlight. If winter is expected to be very frosty, in November you can wrap the trunks with straw or lapnik, tying them with a rope. Lapnik, by the way, will protect the trees from hares and rodents. However, the wraps require constant attention - the bark beneath them can suspend. Therefore, they must be removed as soon as possible, as soon as severe frosts are released.
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Our neighbor in the country house treated the fruit tree stems with water-dispersion paint. He claims that rodents do not damage the bark of such trees. Is it true? If so, how does it work? What other whitewash can be used to protect trees?
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Ready-made paint for trees has a number of advantages over the traditional way of lime-tree lacquering. Firstly, it is easier to handle, it is not necessary to waste time preparing solutions. Secondly, finished paint usually has all the necessary properties for protecting trees: it prevents overheating of the trunks on sunny winter days, reflecting ultraviolet rays, protects trees from damage by pests, parasites, and infections. Third, the finished paint lasts much longer on tree trunks (from one to two years). In some cases, garden paint is also used for processing slices in place of garden varnish and when spraying the crown of trees, when fighting certain types of diseases.
Paints for trees come in several forms. Water-dispersion paints consist of water, color pigment, latex, anti-rinse composition, and antiseptic, protecting the tree from damage by rodents and parasites. Among the garden paints you can also find alkyd mixtures, water-emulsion and aerosol paints. Aerosol paints are practical and easy to use, alkyd paints contain resin that retains paint for a longer time on the tree trunk, which significantly reduces the risk of decay of the bark. Alkyd paint is more frost-resistant and costs a little less than other paints.
In any case, the paint used for the treatment of trees should be just a garden, not an ordinary building one. Apply garden paints only in dry, relatively warm weather, at temperatures above 7 ° C (for aerosol paints -10 ° C).
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I’ve been whitewashing trees for ten years already. SUPER! composition: in 5 kg of thick facade water emulsion (for outdoor use) add 3-4 liters of warm water - move. Then - 500 g of copper sulphate previously dissolved in 1 liter of warm water. Next: dissolved sulfate in a thin stream of pouring water into the emulsion and mix thoroughly. The solution seems to be blue. Take a wide flat brush and FORWARD. The solution holds YEAR.
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Winter is coming soon, which means it's time to take care of the trees in the garden. It is necessary to provide them with such conditions that they do not freeze in the winter and are not affected by the spring sun. In February-March, the sun is very warm in the daytime, at night the temperature drops sharply, which can cause cracks in the trees. Some gardeners, to hedge against cracks, recommend whitewashing of trees. Others, on the contrary, are sure that whitewashing is very harmful to the bark. I did not take either side, but I found my way to protect the boles. I cut strips of covering material and "bandaged" them with the tree trunk. I have been applying this method for many years, and all my trees experience a lossless winter. I remove the "bandages" in late April. And how do you save your trees?
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Whitewash or not whiten
The answer to this question is clear: of course, whitewash! Contrary to popular belief, whitewashing of trees is more protective than a decorative event. And that's why.
Whitewash protects the bark of the tree from certain pests, as well as from winter and spring overheating. Towards the end of winter, the sun becomes more active, and the dark crust under its rays is heated up strongly during the day, which can cause sap flow. At night, the temperature drops sharply, the liquid contents of the cells freeze, and the cortex cracked. In the cracks formed there and then strive to penetrate pathogens and pests. Subsequently, this can lead to the death of the tree.
But not the tree that the tender owner has whitewashed since autumn! White reflects the rays and does not allow the plant to awaken before the due date. Thus, the whitened tree lives longer and is less susceptible to diseases.
In the whitewash, both young and old trees are needed. Theoretical burns from lime in young trees can be avoided if you use not pure lime, but mix it with other ingredients or even replace them with water-based paints. The cost of whitewashing, of course, will increase, but the risks are less.
Ideally, you need to whiten the whole tree. But it will require a lot of whitewashing, time and effort. A compromise option is processing the entire height of the stem plus the lower skeletal branches. In the fall, whitewashing is required, but in the spring it is enough to simply update it.
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I did not have time to whitewash the trees in early spring. And if this work is done in May, isn’t it too late?
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If for beauty, then it's not too late. But in fact, for each procedure - its own time. It is best to whitewash trunks in autumn or spring, in winter and in summer. Whitewashing is needed so that your garden trees can tolerate the winter well and not be affected by frost cracks.
This is what happens: the spring sun heats the trunks, and sap flow begins in them. And at night the temperature drops sharply, the juices inside the trunk freeze, the moisture expands, the crust bursts, and cracks appear on the trunk. An infection can get into these wounds, the plant is sick. Whitewashing protects the trunk from overheating and prevents early sap flow. Well, in May, this disaster no longer threatens. Therefore, do other things, and put off the whitewashing of trees until autumn - on a fine October or November day, but before the onset of frost, it will be time.
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I want to share a proven recipe for garden whitewash. It consists of four components: 2 kg of dry whitewash, 6 l of warm water, 2 kg of river sand and 1 l of white water-based paint. Thanks to the paint, the whitewash will stay longer on the trunk. Sand is required - it will help fill in all the bumps in the bark. The trunks are snow-white, beautiful, and most importantly - reliably protected.
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It’s up to everyone to decide whether or not to whiten trees. I just want to warn gardeners that now is the time to pick up a brush and white paint. Trees suffer from sunburn.
Spring we ourselves know what, mercury on the thermometer can run back and forth, and the trees suffer. There is nothing worse for the garden than these temperature swings. Therefore, I never get involved in any debate about whether there is a benefit in whitewashing. White color to some extent can be compared with a mirror. It reflects the sun's rays, so if the tree is painted, then in part it is already protected. therefore
In February - early March, I went to the cottage and whitewash trunks. Even in the fall, it happens, I miss it, and in the spring - never. Belyu to the first fork of skeletal branches. If the old bark is peeling, then first its bracket, I clean and treat the trunk with 1% copper sulfate, this is disinfection. Well, then I whitewash.
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The trimming of trees is an excellent measure to combat diseases, pests and rodents, as well as protection against sunburn in February-March. Blanch trees aged 3-4 and more years. The trunks and the base of the skeletal branches should be whitewashed above the snow level.
Before whitewashing, after autumn rains, at positive temperatures, the trunks need to be slightly cleaned.
The basis of whitewashing is slaked lime with clay or water-based paint.
• Industrial method: clay, lime (must be diluted to the consistency of sour cream) and manure (adherent) in the proportion of 4: 2: 1 mixed with repellent (creolin) in 1-2% concentration. Lime whitewash needs to be renewed in the spring.
• Economical way for small gardens: 3 l of water-based paint, 50 g of Creolin and copper sulfate in 1% concentration (if there were many diseases).
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What whitewash to choose?
With the advent of cold weather, the life processes of trees slow down and plants "fall asleep". But wintering will be successful for them only if you properly prepare trees for frost, incl. if you correctly choose the composition for whitening the stem.
It is necessary that the mixture is white for better reflection of sunlight and has protective properties against diseases. Whitewashing should firmly adhere to the bark, be “tasteless” for rodents and protect the tree from temperature changes. The most affordable option is a thick solution of lime. It’s good if you add carbolic acid to it. Budget compositions also include solutions with mullein, lime, clay. But they have a drawback - they are washed off by precipitation. So, such whitewashing will have to be updated more than once, that is, the savings are imaginary.
In stores, ready-made protective compounds are sold. Some use water-based, acrylic paints. It is important to use non-toxic formulations that do not interfere with the penetration of air and moisture. To increase frost resistance and protect against rodents, tie a tree trunk with thick paper, agrofibre, burlap or lapnik. Just do not wrap the mushrooms with a film - this will complicate air exchange, and it will not save from rodents.
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Two-stage whitewash
Can you clean the bark of trees in the fall, and whiten at the end of winter or early March, to save time?
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Can. Only it is necessary to do it very late in the autumn. After all, the purge of the old bark is the ruin of wintering pests. So it's better to do it when stable frosts begin, and even better after the first snow: then the scraped "beasts" and their eggs will fall on the snow and die. Otherwise, it is necessary to lay something under the trees, collect the scraped bark and burn.
On the other hand, necrotic but still scaly cracks on the trunk and branches - to some extent, the thermal insulation of the tree from winter frosts, so if it is expected that a severe winter is expected, it is better to clean and triturate the trunks after all.
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In the very early spring, I smear the trunks with a "secret" mixture.
I take the clay, dilute it with water and insist for at least two days so that all the lumps in the solution soften. And then I add the freshest cow manure to this talker (horse is better, but I can’t always get it). The mixture in its composition should be slightly thinner than the dough for fritters, otherwise it will be difficult to apply it with a brush on the trees - it will drain, and it will be easy to get dirty, and the smell will remain on the clothes for a long time ... I coat all the trunks with such a mixture to the height where I can get it.
Ask what is good in such a putty? And it perfectly heals all wounds on trees, especially those that they receive in the winter, when the bark crackes from frost. Under such a mixture, all the damage is delayed very quickly. If there is yellow glue on the cortex (in my opinion, it is also called cadmium), then I clean everything and smear it again with a talker. She holds well and is not washed off by summer rains. I cook it every year, and it looks like my trees are very happy. This is noticeable in their productivity and the number of new strong branches. This recipe is old, it was told to me by my grandmother Nina. Now rarely is anyone doing this, but in vain. Try it - you won’t regret it.
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The pincushion of trees is not only good
Amateur gardeners have a different approach to whitewashing trees. Some whiten trees in the fall, others in the spring, and some do not. I have my own approach to garden crops about this.
Young trees b years after landing on a permanent place at all I do not run, but I tie my trunks with spruce lapnik. To this I came after unsuccessful experiments with whitewashing 20 years ago. Planting 2-year-old apple seedlings, white immediately after the autumn planting for three consecutive years. And he noticed that the trees do not want to grow, although all the nutritious elements were introduced to them in the planting pit. I began to search for the reason, read a lot of literature on the garden and came to the conclusion that it was all about whitewashing. It turns out,
when whitewashed young trees with a smooth bark, we seal all the pores in the bark through which the plant breathes, they are violated growth processes.
But the adult trees I whitewash twice a year by whitewashing at home: 10 liters of water -3 kg of chalk, 400 g of copper sulfate and 100 g of wallpaper glue CMC.
The first time I go late in the fall, usually in November in sunny weather. But before that, with trunks and skeletal twigs, I clean out the old bark, picking up the days when it's damp: at such a time, she
easier to remove. Together with the bark, I clean mosses and lichens, which often appear on the northwestern side of the boles.
I re-bleach the trees in late February - early March, when daytime frosts drop to -5 * C. Why the second time? The fact is that during the winter part of the whitewash is washed off, so it needs to be updated.
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With the modern variety of ready-to-use whitening compounds on sale, your idea carries more sports than a semantic load. But why not?
A whitening can be autumn and early spring. Overlying it means more pest control, and spring - protection of the stem and the bases of skeletal branches from frostbites and sunburn. Autumn can be practiced until the stable snow, and spring in the warm days of late February and early March.
Young trees are desirable to whiten with "breathable" compounds, for example - 2 kg freshly lime, 150 g casein or 100 g carpentry glue carefully stir in 10 l of warm water, add a tablespoon of copper chloride and brush the brush on the cleaned trunk and the skeletal branches up to the height 1,7 m. If a little carb (a tea spoon) is added to the bucket of the mixture, a painted tree
It is not eaten to the taste of rodents (carefully, carbolic acid in any form is toxic to humans!).
As a binder in the mixture instead of glue, you can use a white water-based paint for interior work. This will increase the stickiness of the mixture, and you will most likely not have to tint trees in the spring after winter thaws.
There is an old, effective against pests, but an uneasy way: 1 part of mullein, 1 part of light clay, 2 lime pieces, 0,1 part of copper sulfate and water up to the density of sour cream.
Still lime with clay and copper vitriol (2: 1: 0,1) is kneaded on milk whey and this is whitewashed with trees.
As a binder, you can use any water-based paints for interior works, but you do not need to use acrylic paints or only on adult trees - this whitewash keeps perfectly, but does not breathe.
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I want to make myself a composition for the autumn whitewashing of trees. What do you advise?
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Among the gardeners do not stop the debate about whether the autumn whitewash is useful or harmful for trees.
I am an agronomist by training, and I can say for sure: you need to whitewash trees, but not all. In young trees, whitewashing clogs the pores and slows down gas exchange. But adult trees whitewash is good. Their coarse bark is an excellent habitat for garden pests, and whitewash protects against frost and sunburn.
The main whitewash is carried out in the late autumn, after the fall of the leaves, in dry cool weather (2-3 °). In a bucket of hydrated lime, diluted in half with water, add 2 kg of slurry and 1,5 kg of liquid clay. The trunks are cleaned of mosses, lichens and dead bark, the damage is covered with garden fumes. And the next day they cover the trunk and branches with whitewashing at the maximum accessible height.
I'm not stingy at whitewashing and refreshing it even in March-April, until the land warmed up.
Olga Ryazanova
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My way to take care of the trees in the garden is to share
The trunk should be washed with hot water and laundry soap - from the stem (slightly rake the ground) and how much you get up. Then rinse the barrel with clean water and strip to a healthy trunk mass. Wash cleaned areas with hot potassium permanganate water and allow to dry.
At this time, we prepare a mortar for putty. We mix clay and manure to the consistency of sour cream and cover first the hollows, cuts, hemp on the trunk, and then the whole trunk with a thick layer of putty. We let it dry, and then we cover the trunk with the main putty made of cement (1 part), sand (3 parts) and oil paint (500 g). We let putty putty, after which we whiten the barrel with quicklime.
Putty should be prepared little by little - it quickly sets. This method is proven, valid for many years.
I also want to advise those who have black currants to collect potato peelings and cover them with bushes. You can dry cleanings or make a compost pile out of them - in any case, the berries will become much larger. Other types of currants are not affected by such top dressing.
And when planting potatoes, put in the holes not just ashes, but ashes mixed with salt (0,5 kg of salt per bucket of ash). It helps a lot from the wireworm.
Bushueva E.