23 Review (s)

  1. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    In autumn the trees whitewashed. But everywhere they write to repeat whitewashing. It is necessary?
    Anna Shkurko

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      In February, the phase of natural rest in fruit trees is replaced by a phase of forced rest. At this time, the sun heats the trunks and branches, which can trigger the beginning of the vegetation of the cortex. At night, due to a sharp drop in temperature, the water, which has fallen into small cracks, freezes and destroys the bark. Especially it is dangerous for trees from which winter rains washed away whitewash. The trunks of such trees reflect little of the sun's rays, they heat up during the day. As a result, the plant receives a solar-thermal burn. Therefore, in the second half of February I advise you to re-whitewash trunks and branches. Do it better at a temperature of at least + 5 degrees. In a bucket of water (Yul) dilute 2-2,5 kg of freshly lime and add 0,4-0,5 kg of copper sulfate previously dissolved in water. For better adhesion to the mortar, add 1-2 st. milk or 1-2 tbsp. flour pastry.
      Raisa MATVEEVA

      Reply
  2. Love

    As a chemistry teacher and gardener with experience, I advise: in the spring, buy a bag (2 g) of quicklime and pour it into a bucket of water (i.e. put it out). The next day, make the solution - as thick as a heavy cream, and whiten. Will keep for a long time!
    N.I. KONOVALOV.

    Reply
  3. Mikhail Timofeev, Syktyvkar

    Wounds on the trunks of fruit trees, caused by a strong temperature drop, depending on the size can lead not only to the disease, but also to the death of the plant. We call these cracks ice cold, but in fact, it's like this: the day sun on one side of the barrel warms up the juices, the night cold freezes them, the formed liquid crystals break the wood. Therefore, it is so important to protect the barrel from heat and frost.
    I use the simplest "grandfather" method - whitewash trunks. I dissolve 3 kg of lime in a bucket of water. To whitewash, drying out, not falling off and not being washed away by the rain, add 1 cup of wallpaper glue (you can cook home paste; take 1 cup of flour or starch in 1 liter of water and stir constantly to prevent lumps).

    Whitewashing will protect from sunlight. If winter is expected to be very frosty, in November you can wrap the trunks with straw or lapnik, tying them with a rope. Lapnik, by the way, will protect the trees from hares and rodents. However, the wraps require constant attention - the bark beneath them can suspend. Therefore, they must be removed as soon as possible, as soon as severe frosts are released.

    Reply
  4. Olga Shapovalova

    Our neighbor in the country house treated the fruit tree stems with water-dispersion paint. He claims that rodents do not damage the bark of such trees. Is it true? If so, how does it work? What other whitewash can be used to protect trees?

    Reply
    • Olga

      Ready-made paint for trees has a number of advantages over the traditional way of lime-tree lacquering. Firstly, it is easier to handle, it is not necessary to waste time preparing solutions. Secondly, finished paint usually has all the necessary properties for protecting trees: it prevents overheating of the trunks on sunny winter days, reflecting ultraviolet rays, protects trees from damage by pests, parasites, and infections. Third, the finished paint lasts much longer on tree trunks (from one to two years). In some cases, garden paint is also used for processing slices in place of garden varnish and when spraying the crown of trees, when fighting certain types of diseases.
      Paints for trees come in several forms. Water-dispersion paints consist of water, color pigment, latex, anti-rinse composition, and antiseptic, protecting the tree from damage by rodents and parasites. Among the garden paints you can also find alkyd mixtures, water-emulsion and aerosol paints. Aerosol paints are practical and easy to use, alkyd paints contain resin that retains paint for a longer time on the tree trunk, which significantly reduces the risk of decay of the bark. Alkyd paint is more frost-resistant and costs a little less than other paints.
      In any case, the paint used for the treatment of trees should be just a garden, not an ordinary building one. Apply garden paints only in dry, relatively warm weather, at temperatures above 7 ° C (for aerosol paints -10 ° C).

      Reply
    • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

      I’ve been whitewashing trees for ten years already. SUPER! composition: in 5 kg of thick facade water emulsion (for outdoor use) add 3-4 liters of warm water - move. Then - 500 g of copper sulphate previously dissolved in 1 liter of warm water. Next: dissolved sulfate in a thin stream of pouring water into the emulsion and mix thoroughly. The solution seems to be blue. Take a wide flat brush and FORWARD. The solution holds YEAR.

      Reply
  5. Marina SIMONOVA, Moscow

    Winter is coming soon, which means it's time to take care of the trees in the garden. It is necessary to provide them with such conditions that they do not freeze in the winter and are not affected by the spring sun. In February-March, the sun is very warm in the daytime, at night the temperature drops sharply, which can cause cracks in the trees. Some gardeners, to hedge against cracks, recommend whitewashing of trees. Others, on the contrary, are sure that whitewashing is very harmful to the bark. I did not take either side, but I found my way to protect the boles. I cut strips of covering material and "bandaged" them with the tree trunk. I have been applying this method for many years, and all my trees experience a lossless winter. I remove the "bandages" in late April. And how do you save your trees?

    Reply
  6. Veronika NIKOLAEVA, Tula

    Whitewash or not whiten
    The answer to this question is clear: of course, whitewash! Contrary to popular belief, whitewashing of trees is more protective than a decorative event. And that's why.
    Whitewash protects the bark of the tree from certain pests, as well as from winter and spring overheating. Towards the end of winter, the sun becomes more active, and the dark crust under its rays is heated up strongly during the day, which can cause sap flow. At night, the temperature drops sharply, the liquid contents of the cells freeze, and the cortex cracked. In the cracks formed there and then strive to penetrate pathogens and pests. Subsequently, this can lead to the death of the tree.
    But not the tree that the tender owner has whitewashed since autumn! White reflects the rays and does not allow the plant to awaken before the due date. Thus, the whitened tree lives longer and is less susceptible to diseases.
    In the whitewash, both young and old trees are needed. Theoretical burns from lime in young trees can be avoided if you use not pure lime, but mix it with other ingredients or even replace them with water-based paints. The cost of whitewashing, of course, will increase, but the risks are less.
    Ideally, you need to whiten the whole tree. But it will require a lot of whitewashing, time and effort. A compromise option is processing the entire height of the stem plus the lower skeletal branches. In the fall, whitewashing is required, but in the spring it is enough to simply update it.

    Reply
  7. I. MALIKOVA, city of Vyborg

    I did not have time to whitewash the trees in early spring. And if this work is done in May, isn’t it too late?

    Reply
    • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

      If for beauty, then it's not too late. But in fact, for each procedure - its own time. It is best to whitewash trunks in autumn or spring, in winter and in summer. Whitewashing is needed so that your garden trees can tolerate the winter well and not be affected by frost cracks.
      This is what happens: the spring sun heats the trunks, and sap flow begins in them. And at night the temperature drops sharply, the juices inside the trunk freeze, the moisture expands, the crust bursts, and cracks appear on the trunk. An infection can get into these wounds, the plant is sick. Whitewashing protects the trunk from overheating and prevents early sap flow. Well, in May, this disaster no longer threatens. Therefore, do other things, and put off the whitewashing of trees until autumn - on a fine October or November day, but before the onset of frost, it will be time.

      Reply
  8. Faith Penochkin. Demidov

    I want to share a proven recipe for garden whitewash. It consists of four components: 2 kg of dry whitewash, 6 l of warm water, 2 kg of river sand and 1 l of white water-based paint. Thanks to the paint, the whitewash will stay longer on the trunk. Sand is required - it will help fill in all the bumps in the bark. The trunks are snow-white, beautiful, and most importantly - reliably protected.

    Reply
  9. I. GORDEEV, city of Ivangorod

    It’s up to everyone to decide whether or not to whiten trees. I just want to warn gardeners that now is the time to pick up a brush and white paint. Trees suffer from sunburn.
    Spring we ourselves know what, mercury on the thermometer can run back and forth, and the trees suffer. There is nothing worse for the garden than these temperature swings. Therefore, I never get involved in any debate about whether there is a benefit in whitewashing. White color to some extent can be compared with a mirror. It reflects the sun's rays, so if the tree is painted, then in part it is already protected. therefore
    In February - early March, I went to the cottage and whitewash trunks. Even in the fall, it happens, I miss it, and in the spring - never. Belyu to the first fork of skeletal branches. If the old bark is peeling, then first its bracket, I clean and treat the trunk with 1% copper sulfate, this is disinfection. Well, then I whitewash.

    Reply
  10. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    The trimming of trees is an excellent measure to combat diseases, pests and rodents, as well as protection against sunburn in February-March. Blanch trees aged 3-4 and more years. The trunks and the base of the skeletal branches should be whitewashed above the snow level.
    Before whitewashing, after autumn rains, at positive temperatures, the trunks need to be slightly cleaned.
    The basis of whitewashing is slaked lime with clay or water-based paint.
    • Industrial method: clay, lime (must be diluted to the consistency of sour cream) and manure (adherent) in the proportion of 4: 2: 1 mixed with repellent (creolin) in 1-2% concentration. Lime whitewash needs to be renewed in the spring.
    • Economical way for small gardens: 3 l of water-based paint, 50 g of Creolin and copper sulfate in 1% concentration (if there were many diseases).

    Reply
  11. Julia KUKHARSKAYA, Kharkiv

    What whitewash to choose?
    With the advent of cold weather, the life processes of trees slow down and plants "fall asleep". But wintering will be successful for them only if you properly prepare trees for frost, incl. if you correctly choose the composition for whitening the stem.
    It is necessary that the mixture is white for better reflection of sunlight and has protective properties against diseases. Whitewashing should firmly adhere to the bark, be “tasteless” for rodents and protect the tree from temperature changes. The most affordable option is a thick solution of lime. It’s good if you add carbolic acid to it. Budget compositions also include solutions with mullein, lime, clay. But they have a drawback - they are washed off by precipitation. So, such whitewashing will have to be updated more than once, that is, the savings are imaginary.
    In stores, ready-made protective compounds are sold. Some use water-based, acrylic paints. It is important to use non-toxic formulations that do not interfere with the penetration of air and moisture. To increase frost resistance and protect against rodents, tie a tree trunk with thick paper, agrofibre, burlap or lapnik. Just do not wrap the mushrooms with a film - this will complicate air exchange, and it will not save from rodents.

    Reply
  12. Raisa Mikhailovna Pakshina, Volkhov

    Two-stage whitewash
    Can you clean the bark of trees in the fall, and whiten at the end of winter or early March, to save time?

    Reply
    • Anton Borisovich Gribachev, Obninsk

      Can. Only it is necessary to do it very late in the autumn. After all, the purge of the old bark is the ruin of wintering pests. So it's better to do it when stable frosts begin, and even better after the first snow: then the scraped "beasts" and their eggs will fall on the snow and die. Otherwise, it is necessary to lay something under the trees, collect the scraped bark and burn.
      On the other hand, necrotic but still scaly cracks on the trunk and branches - to some extent, the thermal insulation of the tree from winter frosts, so if it is expected that a severe winter is expected, it is better to clean and triturate the trunks after all.

      Reply
  13. Alla70

    In the very early spring, I smear the trunks with a "secret" mixture.
    I take the clay, dilute it with water and insist for at least two days so that all the lumps in the solution soften. And then I add the freshest cow manure to this talker (horse is better, but I can’t always get it). The mixture in its composition should be slightly thinner than the dough for fritters, otherwise it will be difficult to apply it with a brush on the trees - it will drain, and it will be easy to get dirty, and the smell will remain on the clothes for a long time ... I coat all the trunks with such a mixture to the height where I can get it.
    Ask what is good in such a putty? And it perfectly heals all wounds on trees, especially those that they receive in the winter, when the bark crackes from frost. Under such a mixture, all the damage is delayed very quickly. If there is yellow glue on the cortex (in my opinion, it is also called cadmium), then I clean everything and smear it again with a talker. She holds well and is not washed off by summer rains. I cook it every year, and it looks like my trees are very happy. This is noticeable in their productivity and the number of new strong branches. This recipe is old, it was told to me by my grandmother Nina. Now rarely is anyone doing this, but in vain. Try it - you won’t regret it.

    Reply
  14. Ivan

    The pincushion of trees is not only good
    Amateur gardeners have a different approach to whitewashing trees. Some whiten trees in the fall, others in the spring, and some do not. I have my own approach to garden crops about this.
    Young trees b years after landing on a permanent place at all I do not run, but I tie my trunks with spruce lapnik. To this I came after unsuccessful experiments with whitewashing 20 years ago. Planting 2-year-old apple seedlings, white immediately after the autumn planting for three consecutive years. And he noticed that the trees do not want to grow, although all the nutritious elements were introduced to them in the planting pit. I began to search for the reason, read a lot of literature on the garden and came to the conclusion that it was all about whitewashing. It turns out,
    when whitewashed young trees with a smooth bark, we seal all the pores in the bark through which the plant breathes, they are violated growth processes.
    But the adult trees I whitewash twice a year by whitewashing at home: 10 liters of water -3 kg of chalk, 400 g of copper sulfate and 100 g of wallpaper glue CMC.
    The first time I go late in the fall, usually in November in sunny weather. But before that, with trunks and skeletal twigs, I clean out the old bark, picking up the days when it's damp: at such a time, she
    easier to remove. Together with the bark, I clean mosses and lichens, which often appear on the northwestern side of the boles.
    I re-bleach the trees in late February - early March, when daytime frosts drop to -5 * C. Why the second time? The fact is that during the winter part of the whitewash is washed off, so it needs to be updated.

    Reply
  15. Nadezhda

    With the modern variety of ready-to-use whitening compounds on sale, your idea carries more sports than a semantic load. But why not?
    A whitening can be autumn and early spring. Overlying it means more pest control, and spring - protection of the stem and the bases of skeletal branches from frostbites and sunburn. Autumn can be practiced until the stable snow, and spring in the warm days of late February and early March.
    Young trees are desirable to whiten with "breathable" compounds, for example - 2 kg freshly lime, 150 g casein or 100 g carpentry glue carefully stir in 10 l of warm water, add a tablespoon of copper chloride and brush the brush on the cleaned trunk and the skeletal branches up to the height 1,7 m. If a little carb (a tea spoon) is added to the bucket of the mixture, a painted tree
    It is not eaten to the taste of rodents (carefully, carbolic acid in any form is toxic to humans!).
    As a binder in the mixture instead of glue, you can use a white water-based paint for interior work. This will increase the stickiness of the mixture, and you will most likely not have to tint trees in the spring after winter thaws.
    There is an old, effective against pests, but an uneasy way: 1 part of mullein, 1 part of light clay, 2 lime pieces, 0,1 part of copper sulfate and water up to the density of sour cream.
    Still lime with clay and copper vitriol (2: 1: 0,1) is kneaded on milk whey and this is whitewashed with trees.
    As a binder, you can use any water-based paints for interior works, but you do not need to use acrylic paints or only on adult trees - this whitewash keeps perfectly, but does not breathe.

    Reply
  16. Guest

    I want to make myself a composition for the autumn whitewashing of trees. What do you advise?

    Reply
  17. The reader (nitsa)

    Among the gardeners do not stop the debate about whether the autumn whitewash is useful or harmful for trees.
    I am an agronomist by training, and I can say for sure: you need to whitewash trees, but not all. In young trees, whitewashing clogs the pores and slows down gas exchange. But adult trees whitewash is good. Their coarse bark is an excellent habitat for garden pests, and whitewash protects against frost and sunburn.
    The main whitewash is carried out in the late autumn, after the fall of the leaves, in dry cool weather (2-3 °). In a bucket of hydrated lime, diluted in half with water, add 2 kg of slurry and 1,5 kg of liquid clay. The trunks are cleaned of mosses, lichens and dead bark, the damage is covered with garden fumes. And the next day they cover the trunk and branches with whitewashing at the maximum accessible height.
    I'm not stingy at whitewashing and refreshing it even in March-April, until the land warmed up.
    Olga Ryazanova

    Reply
  18. Elizabeth

    My way to take care of the trees in the garden is to share

    The trunk should be washed with hot water and laundry soap - from the stem (slightly rake the ground) and how much you get up. Then rinse the barrel with clean water and strip to a healthy trunk mass. Wash cleaned areas with hot potassium permanganate water and allow to dry.
    At this time, we prepare a mortar for putty. We mix clay and manure to the consistency of sour cream and cover first the hollows, cuts, hemp on the trunk, and then the whole trunk with a thick layer of putty. We let it dry, and then we cover the trunk with the main putty made of cement (1 part), sand (3 parts) and oil paint (500 g). We let putty putty, after which we whiten the barrel with quicklime.

    Putty should be prepared little by little - it quickly sets. This method is proven, valid for many years.
    I also want to advise those who have black currants to collect potato peelings and cover them with bushes. You can dry cleanings or make a compost pile out of them - in any case, the berries will become much larger. Other types of currants are not affected by such top dressing.
    And when planting potatoes, put in the holes not just ashes, but ashes mixed with salt (0,5 kg of salt per bucket of ash). It helps a lot from the wireworm.

    Bushueva E.

    Reply

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