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8 Review (s)

  1. Anna Zaitseva, Kostroma

    White tomatoes?
    Last season many tomatoes had a white dry middle. What it is? Will there be a repeat of the story this year? How can this be prevented?

    Reply
    • Anna

      The white dry middle of the fruit appears due to sudden temperature changes, due to high humidity in the greenhouse, due to too strong sun, as well as a lack of potassium and calcium or an excess of nitrogen. Thus, during the flowering period, the temperature in the greenhouse should not be lower than 15 ° and above 35 °. If, for example, it becomes hotter, the roots of plants cease to absorb potassium, and it is necessary for the production of lycopene (a pigment that determines the red color of the fruit).
      The greenhouse should not be too humid, so regular ventilation should be carried out. Doses of nitrogen fertilizers should be moderate - strictly according to the instructions. In intense heat, tomatoes need to be pritenit (for example, by gluing to a glass of newspaper on a soap solution).
      Open ground tomatoes must be mulched, along with watering, potassium and calcium fertilizers, especially during the flowering period.

      Reply
  2. Lola

    Rushing large tomatoes began to dry where a white big spot appeared without a dark fringe. I can not understand what it is

    Reply
  3. Irina MIKHAILOVA Tver

    Vertex Rot
    Blackens and begins to die off the tip of the fetus. It looks scary, but there is good news - this is not an infection, that is, the disease is not contagious.
    Reason: improper care (lack of calcium, lean irrigation). It is necessary 1 times in 10-15 days to carry out foliar top dressing with preparations containing boron and calcium, but without nitrogen.
    If the leaves are curled into a tube
    Reason: overheating, low humidity, weak roots, excess nitrogen. Urgently water and reduce the temperature! Stop feeding with nitrogen. But if this happens only in the afternoon, then
    do not worry. Everything is in order.
    Tomatoes crack and deform. Reason: uneven watering, high humidity and nightly cold. Still, a tomato is a tender vegetable.
    From dryness and lack of moisture, the growth of the fruit stops, the cuticle dushes, but with the first watering it abruptly resumes and bursts.
    Many small fruits
    Reason: the air temperature is to blame - too high or too low. Plus, high humidity and low light.

    Reply
  4. Olga Torshina

    Yes, there are such varieties. For example, Vezha and Start F1, which have increased resistance to this disease.
    Measures to combat brown spots In the first turn, the relative humidity in the greenhouse should not be higher than 80%, so frequent airing is necessary.
    Do not water tomatoes with cold water.
    To prevent brown spots, it is possible to dress seeds or spray adults
    the plants are treated with a solution of Phytosporin-M (5 g per 10 L of water). For prevention and treatment of the disease, copper-containing preparations of Azo-phosph are used. Modified, 50% KS (80 g for 10 L of water), Abita-Peak, Sun (40 ml per 10 L of water).
    After harvesting, sick plants, soil and roof of the greenhouse are disinfected by spraying with a solution of copper sulfate (1 at 10 L of water), and next year not planting tomatoes in this place.

    Reply
  5. Guest

    Tomatoes fell ill with brown spots. The leaves are covered with yellow-brown spots and fade, the fruits cease to be tied up and grow-they only mature on the first and second brushes. Sprayed plants with various chemical preparations, tried even the old way: burned straw in the greenhouse, but nothing helped. Are there varieties of tomatoes that are not prone to this disease?

    Reply
  6. Catherine

    Aphids, caterpillars and slugs are afraid of bitter pepper.
    01 kg chopped pods of hot pepper pour 10 L of water, boil 5-7 minutes, I insist 2 days, filter. For spraying vegetable plants
    125 g infusion in 10 l water and add 40 g soap. For treatment of trees I double the dose. The remaining composition is stored in sealed bottles in a dark cool place.

    Reply
  7. Daria

    ■ I struggle with diseases and pests of tomatoes all summer. Once a season, I necessarily do a joint spraying of Panncotseb from the phytophthora and Iskra against the Colorado beetle at the beginning of the fruit setting.
    ■ I make foliar fertilizing with urea (1 tbsp per bucket of water) and then phosphorus and potassium (1 tbsp per 10 L of water) through 10-15 days. This is also a good way to combat diseases and pests - so plants will be powerful and healthy.
    ■ From phytophthors I spray tomatoes with infusions of garlic (200 g insist in 10 l water 2-3 days), potassium chloride solution (30 g per bucket of water with the addition of 10 drops of iodine) or milk whey (1: 10).
    ■ And to improve the setting of fruits twice a season I process with a solution of boric acid (10 g per 10 L of hot water).
    ■ Tomatoes weekly pediatric, leaving no hemp, I remove sick and lower leaves.
    ■ I tie the bushes: I fasten the stems with self-made aluminum rings to a wire of the same material that I stretch from the roof bar of the greenhouse.

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