9 Review (s)

  1. Irina Shilova, Irkutsk

    Tell me, please, what can be put in place tomatoes and peppers?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      On plots of land, cottages and vegetable gardens it is desirable to apply fruit. The replacement of one group of crops with another protects against unilateral depletion of the soil and the accumulation of pests and pathogens in it.

      Pepper and tomato can be alternated with pumpkin crops - zucchini, squash, cucumber, as well as cabbage: cabbage, radish, radish, daikon.
      Feel good after the nightshade and carrots with beets. All these groups of plants belong to different families and have different pests and pathogens that can persist in the soil. They have different requirements for soil nutrition.

      Reply
  2. Irina BEREZKINA, city of Ivanovo

    I always knew about the need for crop rotation, but I still could not avoid mistakes. Somehow I overlooked that the ground under the potatoes, too, needs rest. The potato was located in one place from year to year, where it was convenient to process it with a mini-tractor. Although manure and other fertilizers were brought in regularly, I brought the soil to such a state that there was no harvest, but tears. Potatoes became less and less, plants were more often affected by phytophthora, wireworm, and Colorado beetle every year. The tubers grew unsavory, they were kept poorly. I tried to completely change the seeds, only a little, new varieties quickly degenerated.
    It was necessary for 2 year to let the land under the siderates. In the first year, a plot of pea-oat mixture was planted, which was chopped twice a season. In autumn the plot was plowed, and the mustard was sown on 2. It was mowed several times, leaving a green mass on the ground, and in autumn everything was sealed in the soil. By 3, the year the earth began to "come to life", became friable, earthworms returned.
    But 2 years of “downtime” of the earth is an extreme measure. Now my land plot has been planned so that it is possible to swap potatoes and vegetable beds every 3-4 years. This allows you to constantly use the land without draining it.

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  3. Margarita Zhilina, Tula

    In my opinion, it is better than all cultures to "prepare" the earth for carrots of cabbage.
    It is this beauty, requiring high-quality nutrition, gets a large amount of compost, from which it takes nitrogen and leaves a lot of phosphorus and potassium-necessary elements for the development of carrots. Good predecessors for the red "damsel in the dungeon" are also tomatoes, onions, potatoes and cucumbers. Having a relatively small root system, they use mineral and organic substances for the most part from the surface layer of the soil, without depleting the deeper, which allows carrots with its core root system to organically develop. Hence it is clear that the undesirable predecessors for carrots are parsnip and celery with their powerful roots.
    Another nuance that you should know when preparing a garden bed for carrots is that you can not use fresh manure. From it in root crops taste and form change. Carrots like the pereprevshie leaves of the same cabbage, cucumber leaves, introduced from the autumn peat, which makes the land softer and airier. He likes carrots, when next to her grow peas, marjoram, onions. The latter, by the way, frightens off a carrot fly.

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  4. Petr STARTSEV, city of Troitsk

    Pear, but not that
    Jerusalem artichoke is a perennial plant, which is also called an earthen pear. Its tubers are underground, and the upper part is powerful stems 2 m high. They are used for feeding livestock, composting. Yellow flowers appearing in the second half of summer make the plant also decorative.
    To the tubers were large, not green in the light, they need to hill. I do this at the end of July. If there were heavy rains, wait for 2-3 a day, so that the top layer of the soil is a bit dry, and I hustle the Jerusalem artichoke to the height of 10-12, see.
    If there is no rain, I hibernate Jerusalem artichoke in the morning or a day after watering. I look on the ground. If it does not crumble, but breaks up into large wet clods, then I wait another day to dry out.
    I remove Jerusalem artichoke in late September or even in mid-October, as he is not afraid of minor frosts - his root crops are in the ground. First, I cut the stems with a secateurs, leaving 10 cm from the soil level. Then I dig and take out the tubers. I select a few pieces for landing, which I also spend in October. After drying, the remaining tubers are put away for storage.

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  5. V.BYNYKO FGBU

    How to deal with the cotton scoop that you mentioned above
    It's a shame when the ripening harvest of pepper, zucchini, eggplant disappears because of the caterpillars of the winter and cotton scoop. They do not eat it as much as they spoil it. To sell such vegetables or use for food is impossible.
    The main difference between the winter scoop and other scoops is the color of the hind wings: in males they are white, in females - pearl gray. The eggs are round, yellowish green, with a diameter of 0,5-0,8 mm. Track length 40-50 mm. Their color is from gray to pale reddish. Pupa is pale red. The first generation of butterflies starts flying in May (and until July), the second - in August-September. With the usual number of insects, in order to use insecticides less, it is enough to follow agricultural technology. Mass reproduction scoop originated
    walks, when vegetables grow in one place without crop rotation, the soil is treated finely or does not cultivate at all.
    Where the scoops are badly injured annually, pheromone traps are set before the period of their intended flight. They contain a liner with an active substance, the smell of which attracts males. They are glued to the surface of the trap and can not fertilize the female.
    Traps can be installed from May to mid-September (they are effective at temperatures above 15 °), they are suspended at a height of 1,5-2 m from the soil surface. In this case, the bottom should be located horizontally. To protect against pests, it is advisable to unite with neighbors: traps from each other are placed at a distance of 150 m.
    If there are a lot of butterflies, you can not do without special means. The plants are treated with insecticides Zolon or Talstar (no later than 30 days before harvest) or Bicol bioinecticicide (during the intensive flight of butterflies). To destroy the pest eggs during oviposition, scoops release a Trichogram at the rate of 10 pcs. on 10 sq.m. When 100 plants contain at least 10 caterpillars of a cotton scoop, an en-tomophage gabbroacon is released. This is a small insect from the order of the Hymenoptera. Female gabrobrakona naho; dit caterpillar, paralyzes it and lays on it up to 45 eggs. The larva feeds on the hemolymph of the caterpillar, leaving only its outer covers from its master.

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  6. Anna

    A few truck farmers manage to observe the fruit crop of vegetables grown. Some complain about the small size of the site, others just do not pay much attention to it. With this attitude to the earth, one should not expect much from it.
    Growing vegetables of one family in one place for several consecutive years leads to a shortage of harvest. This is due to the damage of plants with the same pests and diseases, fatigue of the soil due to the accumulation of poisonous root secretions and unilateral removal of nutrients from the soil.
    When preparing the fruit crop change in my own garden, I adhere to the following rule: I return the representatives of the same family to the old place not earlier than in three years.
    Since the manure is now in short supply and it is not possible to fertilize the entire area every year, I grow vegetables in a four-field fruit change, i.e. on four sites. And plentifully I fertilize in the spring a site on which I place cabbage and pumpkin cultures.
    In the first year, in the first plot, I plant cucumbers, pumpkin, squash, squash, late cabbage, where the land has been mangled. In the second section I place tomatoes, onions, garlic, pepper, eggplant. These cultures are less demanding on organics and grow well according to their predecessors. Lack of nutrition is compensated by mineral fertilizers. In the third section I place root crops, under which I bring only mineral fertilizers: carrots, beets, root parsley, parsnips. In the remaining area I plant potatoes, under which I bring organic matter in the fall, and in the spring - mineral water.
    In the second year, I move the vegetables from the second section (tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, onions and garlic) to the first (after cabbage and pumpkin), root crops to the second, potatoes to the third (after root crops), and from the first (cabbage, pumpkin) I return to the potato plot.
    In the third year, I plant root crops in the first plot. In the second section, potatoes grow, in the third - cabbage and pumpkin, and in the fourth - tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, onions and garlic.
    In the fourth year, the first plot is occupied by potatoes, the second - cabbage and pumpkin, the third - tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, onions and garlic, and the fourth - root crops.
    In the fifth year, the arrangement of vegetables is the same as in the first year, in the sixth - as in the second and so on.
    When sowing or planting crops on the site, I try to place them on the best predecessors.
    In order not to keep this information in my head, I maintain a journal where every year I make a crop chart indicating the type of plants planted and on what predecessors they are placed. It is very convenient.

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  7. Vadim 68

    For some reason artichoke is undeservedly deprived of attention.
    Although it is useful not only for those suffering from diabetes, gastrointestinal diseases, hypertension, but also for quite healthy people.
    Make friends with Jerusalem artichoke - and live without problems! ^
    I remember my barefoot military childhood when we, children, always half-starved, attacked the Jerusalem artichoke thicket and gnawed it with pleasure.
    Many years later, already at the pre-retirement age, I remembered about this universal medicine, as I became ill with diabetes. The analysis showed 10 mmol / L. There was weakness, disability, headaches. I knew from the reference books that diabetes can be successfully treated with Jerusalem artichoke, and it was eaten raw in 4-5 root crops a day. After three weeks, a blood test showed 4,6 mmol / L. Now to me 79 years, sugar in blood 5 mmol / l, pressure 120 / 80. So that's it!
    In the autumn, when Jerusalem artichoke ripens, I dig it out, put it in boxes and fall asleep with wet sand. I keep in the cellar. The tubers of Jerusalem artichoke do not freeze in the ground even at high frosts. But the dug roots are frozen even in small cold, rot and become unsuitable for food.
    Gardener should note that this plant, with abundant watering can grow to 3 m and crush any weeds. You can not plant it close to young fruit trees.
    I recommend taking this valuable plant "into service" for everyone - both sick and healthy, because this sweet medicine cures 200 diseases. I wish everyone not to be sick until 120 years old!

    Reply
  8. Zoe

    I read that Jerusalem artichoke is poorly kept. I want to say, this is not so. I'll tell you how I store it. In the middle of October I excavate, fall asleep in a cold shed directly to the floor, and from above I fall asleep with a wet garden soil at a layer about 10 cm, so that the tubers do not dry out.
    In winter, the land is raked out and I take the tight, frozen tubers. At night, I put them in a cold room, but with a positive temperature (10-15 °). And by the morning the tubers are thawed, they remain bright, dense, alive. All through the winter I feed Jerusalem artichokes with milk goats. Goats eat it clean, so they have a shiny coat, and
    they wear two strong goats. And in the autumn our goats continue to milk themselves, and even in October they give 1 l milk. And in spring, two months after lambing, according to 3 l (a cross between a simple goat and Za-Nen breed).
    In autumn and winter we feed Jerusalem artichoke with chickens. Three on a coarse grater - healthy chickens with bright red scallops and shiny feathers. Even in winter, they continue to rush.
    Everyone in our family loves Jerusalem artichoke: stew it in a skillet with cabbage and potatoes. I make a salad: on a small grater, rub the Jerusalem artichoke, carrots, chop the onion, I fill it with vegetable
    oil and apple cider vinegar. Before preparing the salad, the stalks are carefully washed with my brush and I do not clean it, since silicone is found in the stalk peel.
    Now we live in Moscow, and we have a summer cottage. I have long wanted to plant Jerusalem artichoke. Last fall, I dug up several bushes that grew from discarded tubers on the side of a ravine. There we have a local landfill: people throw weeds, and the land is fertile, but the place is shady but moist (next to the willow on the banks of the pond). And, despite the shadow in which Jerusalem artichoke grew, I dug up a bucket of large tubers. My soul rejoiced when I chose clean dense stolons, and the earth was a sight for sore eyes: on top there was black humus 5 centimeters, and then structural, lumpy clay - most likely the work of earthworms.
    Some of the tubers were immediately planted in their garden: stolons are not stored for long without land - after a week they lose their germination. Part of it was dug for spring consumption, and the rest was taken home. I like raw Jerusalem artichoke - such freshness and a pleasant crunch! And the husband loves grated on a fine grater and filled with berry vinegar (if you put it in the refrigerator, then after 5-7 days it becomes sweet and does not spoil for a month).
    To grow Jerusalem artichoke is easy. He is unpretentious, drought-resistant, is not affected by pests.
    They plant it like potatoes: in a hole to a depth of IQ-12 cm with a feeding area of ​​70 × 70 cm in the southern regions, and in the north - 60 × 60 cm, since it is very photophilous. In the summer weed and spud. When she lived in the Rostov region, she dug ok-
    September. With 3-4 bushes I get a whole bucket of tubers, especially a lot under the last bushes, which got more light. Plant better in the autumn, so that there was less work in the spring. If not, then in the spring: you can and tubers, and the earth's growth, and seedlings. If in the heat from time to time, abundantly watered and fed organic, the tubers grow large and even. And this is important for the preparation of salads, because the surface of the tubers is tuberous.
    In the suburbs, planted tubers in one row through 50 cm along the fence as a stage decoration
    because at the end of August they will blossom yellow flowers, like small sunflowers, and will not only please the eye, but also give nectar to bees, and in autumn it is very handy.
    In the spring I plan to plant a bed to improve the structure of the soil and obtain a green shoot for mulching (Jerusalem artichoke easily tolerates breaking off shoots, only tubers will be small). Earlier at the pick of the harvest, I noticed that in the damp ground under the Jerusalem artichoke shrubs there were always 2-3 fat earthworms.

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