Bearded irises - growing care and some varieties
SOME RECOMMENDATIONS FOR GROWING A BEARDED IRIS
Irises, especially large-flowered varieties, with a powerful rhizome (they require a lot of space and nutrients), grow after a couple of years and begin to interfere with each other. As a result, they bloom all the worse. To avoid this problem, plants need to be divided every 4-6 years. The period from late July to September is suitable for this. Remove the plant from the ground with a pitchfork, shake the ground from the rhizome, cut off the leaves. Then cut the rhizomes, separating the plants from each other. Select the strongest specimens with leaves. Plant them in a circle at a distance of 40 cm from each other, so that the cutting plane of the rhizome looks inside this circle. You can pre-add compost to the soil. Sprinkle the rhizomes only lightly with soil, so that they are not visible. Water the plants liberally. No further action is needed in the coming weeks.
Iris bearded - The plant is very special. It was brought out by crossing different kinds of irises even in the times of antiquity. Thus, it is one of the most ancient garden crops in the history of mankind. Iris bearded grew in the gardens of ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans.
Iris was named in honor of Irida, the goddess of the rainbow - it is in the colors of the rainbow that the flowers of this plant of different varieties are painted. Iris bearded (Iris x barbata) of modern varieties represent a variety of color shades: from white to black and purple.
Grades are divided into groups, differing in height of peduncles. Low-grown iridesome bearded iris (Iris x barbata-nana) with a height of 20-40 cm bloom earlier than the others, in the spring. To medium-sized Iris bearded iris (Irisxbarbata-media) are plants with height from 50 to 70 cm. They bloom for two weeks after the short ones. The most striking are the tall irises of the bearded (Iris x barbata-elatior) of 0,5-1 m, their large flowers blossom in the summer.
The variety of shapes and colors promotes the popularity of the bearded iris. In addition, it is very harmonious with the various garden styles. So, in combination with decorative bows, lupines and delphinium, irises create a romantic mood in the garden. The same effect is produced by a trio of iris, pions and geraniums. The spirit of the Mediterranean is blowing from a flower bed with a cat, santolina, milk and lavender. Iris is suitable for bearded and for modern-style gardens, where a limited number of plants are usually grown, which are distinguished by something special. In such a garden, for example, a group of irises with their sharpened xiphoid leaves and large picturesque flowers could become a vivid accent on the background of graceful silhouettes of ornamental grasses. Tip: if you are going. to grow irises of bearded variegated varieties, choose for them one-color partners on the flower garden, otherwise the whole composition will turn out to be too variegated. For the bearded iris, partners should be selected and taking into account that their roots are not drowned by the rhizomes of the solitary plant, which are closely adjacent to each other and are not deep in the soil. Process it and weed it must also be very carefully, so as not to damage the rhizomes of irises.
Iris is unpretentious, if the place for its growth is chosen correctly. He prefers sunny places, that is, the flower garden should be well illuminated by the sun at least three quarters of the day. If you plant an iris bearded in the shade, then it will not bloom. The soil must be well drained and crooked. When waterlogged, the fleshy rhizomes of the bearded iris can rot.
On a note:
In nature, there are many shades of iris: from white to black. Irises are divided into two large groups: tuberous and bulbous. For planting, choose a sunny place: carry flowers and light partial shade. Neutral soils are suitable. On wet soils they are sick, but on acidic soils they do not bloom. Plants are planted in September-October, so that they only have time to take root. The flowering period of irises is short - from May to June. Flowers live only one to five days, but the leaves are decorative throughout the life of the plant. Three times a season, irises are fed with mineral fertilizers.
LANDING IRIS
Planted irises bearded is best in August. Important: plants should have time to settle down in a new place before winter. If you do not have time to fall, you can try planting irises in the spring. To do this, simply loosen the soil, slightly deepen the rhizomes and lightly sprinkle them with soil.
The distance between the plants depends on whether the tall or short-grown variety you picked, and ranges from 40 to 80, see Iris the bearded loves fertile soil, but it is better not to feed it with nitrogen fertilizers. Choose phosphorus and potassium fertilizers and apply them before the flowering begins. Increased nitrogen content can cause decay of rhizomes. If this happens, the rotted parts are cut off, and the wounds are treated with crushed charcoal.
Irises of the bearded during the flowering period do not require special care. Just enjoy their beauty. Watering plants need only in very dry weather. In faded irises, the stems are cut at a level of 10 cm from the soil surface. So-called repair varieties, for example Lovley Again, in the late summer or even in autumn bloom repeatedly and thereby shorten the waiting time for the next mass flowering of these magnificent flowers.
Note: It is necessary to share
When transplanting and dividing bearded iris and daylily for the prevention of bacterial decay it is useful to leave the excavated rhizomes for a couple of hours in the sun.
When planting, the leaves are cut to two thirds of the original length.
GROWING BEARDED IRIS - PLANTING AND CARE, ADVICE AND FEEDBACK
IRIS IS THE KING OF MY GARDEN
Bearded iris is the real king of a continuously blooming garden.
A noble flower with a rich palette of colors successfully fills the gap between early spring and summer plants. Now is the time to pay attention to old plantings and choose your favorite varieties for new ones.
With sharp scissors, I remove the outer leaves that have died during the winter from the irises, and cut off the dried tips of the green ones. After that, I examine the rhizomes: I clean the soft, rotten ones to a healthy tissue (in the process, I definitely disinfect the knife several times in a weak solution of potassium permanganate), treat it with brilliant green and leave it to dry in the sun.
To prevent wet rot, I lubricate the “backs” of the rhizomes with Fitosporin paste (I dilute the dry preparation with water to the density of sour cream).
LANDING ACCORDING TO ALL RULES
If you do not follow the rules for planting rhizomatous varieties, irises may not take root and die. For flowers, I choose a bright or semi-shady place, I bring in a mature two-three-year-old compost or rotted manure (a bucket of 1 sq.m) and dig it to the depth of a shovel bayonet.
The distance between the holes depends on the variety. Tall irises are planted 40 cm apart, medium height - at a distance of 20 cm, and undersized - 15 cm.
I dig holes according to the size of the rhizome, at the bottom I form a small mound. I have the plant with the main root on a hill, and gently straighten the lateral roots to the sides. I strictly monitor that the central kidney is not deep under the soil. Moisturize and sprinkle with earth. I compact the soil around the flower and water it with warm water.
I slightly loosen the plantings (it is impossible to hill up or add earth: the roots of irises should be in the top layer of soil).
FERTILIZER FOR BRIGHT FLOWERS
As soon as the plants begin to grow, I feed them with complex fertilizer (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium - 5:10:10). To make the flowers of irises larger and brighter, with the appearance of peduncles, I fertilize the plantings with double superphosphate and potassium according to the instructions (you can use ash - 1 tsp per bush).
WE CAN DEAL WITH PESTS WITHOUT "CHEMISTRY"
Intricate iris buds often suffer from May beetles and bronzes. Since the pests are quite large, it makes no sense to use "chemistry" - I collect annoying bugs by hand.
FACT: IRIS FLOWER BUDS ARE PUT IN THE PERIOD OF ACTIVE GROWTH AFTER FLOWERING.
SCISSOR PHASE
After flowering, when the leaves enter the so-called scissor phase (spread apart like open scissors), you can begin to divide and seat the irises. I carefully dig out a bush, lightly shake off the ground. I cut the plant into parts, each of which is a blade of leaves with a rhizome 5-7 cm long. I shorten the leaves to 10-15 cm, and the roots to 8-10 cm. First, I dry the sections in the sun, and then 3-5 days - in the shadow. In a cool, dry place, prepared irises can be stored for up to six months. I plant delenki no later than one and a half months before the onset of frost. I well spud them with peat (humus is also suitable). When stable frosts come (-3 ... -5 degrees), I cover the irises with spruce branches.
TOP 10 POPULAR VARIETIES
I advise everyone: be sure to decorate your flower beds with these luxurious varieties of irises - Bundle of Joy, Blushing Pink, Imperial Opal, Kabum, Miss Apple, Kita No Seiza, Red Singer, Sugar Rush, Supreme Sultan, Contrast in Stiles.
© Author: Olga KAPYLOVA.
BEARDED IRISES - VIDEO
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Wintering irises in an apartment
- Irises Siberian (photo): cultivation and care
- Siberian irises: varieties, planting and care
- Dwarf bearded irises (photo) planting and care: questions and answers
- Irises in questions and answers: growing, planting and care
- How I grow bearded irises on the site - planting and dividing
- Irises are bearded and not bearded: planting, care and varieties
- German Iris (photo) - planting and care
- Bearded irises - growing care and some varieties
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Some of my irises got sick after winter - the rhizomes darkened in several places, somewhere the leaves rotted. I think that the reason is in clay soil. How to help plants?
Olga Grach
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- The most common disease that manifests itself in the spring is wet rot. Rhizomes at the base of the leaves soften, turning into a mushy mass. Plants on heavy soil are especially affected, so it is important to arrange drainage or water drainage, carefully prepare the soil for planting (make sand). Dig up heavily damaged irises, cut out rotten areas to a healthy tissue, process in a 0,1% solution of potassium permanganate or the drug "Maxim" (according to instructions).
Sprinkle wounds with activated charcoal, soak in the sun for at least an hour and plant the “sufferers”, they take root well and soon start to grow. As an option, cut out the rot without digging the rhizomes and also process the slices. In spring, another iris disease, heterosporiasis, can be prevented. This is when spots first appear on the leaves, yellowish and then gray-brown with yellow bordering, which then merge, and the plant dies over time. Since fungal spores winter on plant debris, they now need to be collected and burned. Dig the earth around and sprinkle irises with a 0,4% suspension of colloidal sulfur and Bordeaux liquid (according to instructions).
Alla CHERNOGUZ, breeder of irises
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Bearded irises are the noble and favorite flowers of gardeners. But they are rather whimsical, and for good flowering varietal plants need to be divided and planted every 3-4 year.
The best period for dividing the irises comes in 2-4 weeks after the blossoming. The place for them is chosen well-lit by the sun in the morning. Soil is needed permeable, because on a too wet ground bearded irises are ill, blooming badly or not at all. When preparing the soil, we introduce 4-5 kg of overripe manure, 100 g of complex mineral fertilizer and at least half a glass of ash per 1 m2. The soil for irises should be neutral reaction, and ash contributes to this.
It is equally important to prepare for planting and irises themselves. At the dug out bush we delete the exhausted central parts of a rhizome, and also all softened and sick places. For planting, cut off the end sections of the rhizome, consisting of 1-2 links and ending with a fan of leaves. We cut the rhizome with a knife perpendicularly so that the diameter of the cut is the smallest. Leaves shorten to an altitude of 15 20 cm, making a cut obliquely, and cut the roots to a length of about 10 cm. After this, the delineation is first disinfected in the fungicide solution to prevent rot, and then well dried in the sun during the day. We place the delenki shallowly so that the upper part of the rhizome is slightly exposed. The rhizome in the earth is located horizontally, and the roots are gently straightened on two sides, making for them deeper holes. Densely compress the soil with your hands, water and mulch.
We plant irises in groups of 3 4 plants, cut to the center, at a distance of 10-15 cm or rows, orienting the slices in one direction. Divided irises usually bloom for the next year.
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What if the planting material of irises comes only in October?
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Bearded irises bloomed scantily, very small flowers. I was told that the reason for lack of watering and feeding. But they are also drought-resistant plants, and they are not recommended for feeding. Is it possible to improve the situation?
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Bearded iris, indeed, the plant is drought-resistant, but in periods of active growth, budding and flowering it must still be abundantly watered. Although we must not forget that excessive stagnant moisture has a disastrous effect on planting. Water better in the evening hours, avoiding water falling on buds and flowers.
After the dried crust is formed, the soil is gently loosened, trying not to disturb the surface root system of the irises. Watering is well combined with fertilization. It is inadmissible to overfeed with nitrogen, and they need phosphorus, potassium and microfertilizers. By autumn, watering is reduced for the successful preparation of irises for wintering.
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When is it better to plant bearded irises?
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Specialists recommend doing this three weeks after flowering, and this is the middle - the second half of July. Old, overgrown, with interwoven rhizomes (horizontal kolbasobrazny part), the bushes are dug out with a pitchfork, not afraid to lose their roots. But at the same time they try not to break fragile rhizomes too rough. The second part of the meaning of the word "when" means how often. On average, it’s five years, but a lot depends on the speed of the variety. New and pretentious sometimes grow tight, and you have to share them less often.
Old bushes to divide is fine, leaving no more 3 fans in de-lenke and a piece of rhizome up to 10 cm. The old roots are shortened by the width of the palm, they have lost their suction function and will now work only as an anchor. But after planting, new ones will begin to grow almost immediately. Cut the rhizome rubbed with crushed charcoal or cover with greenery. The fan of the leaves is cut off, leaving the bottom third. If it's important not to go for a variety, then you can sign the name directly on the leaves. For landing, select fans larger: small one-, two-, and even three-leaved fans makes sense to leave, only if the variety is rare or new, since before flowering they will have to bring several years.
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Japanese irises, which grow in my garden for 4 year, looked very drooping this summer. I divided and dropped one of them into a container, and the rest remain in the open during the winter. How to help them survive the winter?
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Irises have a feature: through 3-4 from the end of July to autumn their bushes have to be divided.
Prepare the soil for planting irises in advance, about a month before planting the plants. First you need to carefully remove all the weeds that not only take away all the valuable substances, but can lead to rotting rhizomes of irises. Then enrich the soil: make a bed of 1 bucket well reburned humus, sprinkle 1-2 a glass of wood ash, 0,5 glass superphosphate, 1 bucket of sand. Carefully dig a pitchfork and water it. Then tightly cover the ground with film, so that there is no air, and leave until planting, not allowing the drying of the soil.
Dug a plant to shake off the ground and divide a large rhizome into planting plants. They can consist of one- or two-year links with roots and a fan of leaves.
All slices and places of faults powdered with wood ash for
disinfection, crop the fan of leaves (at 10-15 cm) and all old roots (at 10 cm). Irish divisors can be disinfected (for example, in a strong solution of potassium permanganate) for disease prevention and must be dried in the sun 5-7 days.
When planting a thick rhizome does not need to be buried, it must remain on the surface of the earth. To do this, use a shovel to make grooves in the soil from one side of the rhizome, place the roots of the iris in the excavated fossa and fill them with earth, leaving the top part of the rhizome flush with the soil surface.
In late September, the leaves of the irises should be cut (up to 10-15 cm), best in the form of a "house".
Later in the autumn, when a stable temperature is established (below 5 °), irises can be slightly bogged down with earth, peat or humus. In our Siberian conditions, I still sprinkle them with sawdust (I remove sawdust in spring) and leaves.
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This can be done throughout the growing season, although the most favorable periods are April - early May and late August - November. Directly in the ground, large, well-developed rhizomes should be separated with a knife and removed from the soil. Then you need to trim the leaves with scissors, leaving the stems 10-20 cm long, wash the root system off the ground and shorten it to 5-10 cm. When planting, the rhizome is slightly deepened, given that over time it will come out, as required, to the surface.
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When and how can you divide marsh irises?
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This sometimes happens with all kinds of irises - for obvious reasons iris does not grow. But all the same it is necessary to understand: why he does not want to grow? Maybe you sold the native plant, and earlier it grew in absolutely different conditions, radically different from the current ones. Perhaps, iris is ill with a viral disease, although this happens very rarely.
Try to update the bush. Cut the leaves to 10-15 cm and shorten the roots. Stimulate the plant with zircon, epine or root, and when new leaves start to grow, feed it with any "autumn fertilizer", and you will succeed. Since the end of the season, it is better to do it in spring and summer, but autumn fertilizer complexes are relevant at any time, and do not need to be replaced with nitrogen containing fertilizers. The fact is that in these preparations a very good set of NPK (5-15-30), which is optimal for irises. I spend such fertilizing three to five times a season, starting in the spring (but you can also use complex floral fertilizers in the spring). And now you can feed the iris where it grows.
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Five years ago, planted iris smooth, but it does not grow, and does not die. I tried to transplant it, change the soil, feed it, but there are no visible changes. He has enough moisture and sun. Nearby grow Siberian irises, develop well and blossom.
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Irises are one of my favorites.
The area where irises grow should be protected from winds, otherwise during flowering high flowers can break and fall. Water should be moderate, from excessive moisture the roots of irises rot. After watering, I loosen the soil in the middle of the rows.
When I plant irises, I deepen large plants by 8-10 cm, and small ones by 5-8 cm. In this case, I shorten the root system by half, and the leaves by a third of the length. And so what handsome men can grow!