18 Review (s)

  1. Lidia NOVICHIKHINA, herbalist

    Berries of red currants, in comparison with black, contain more provitamin A (useful for vision). They are more juicy (the juice of them is obtained by 10% more), yield and winter hardiness. Juice made from red currant berries has choleretic and anti-inflammatory effects.

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  2. Elena SCHADNOVA, Pskov

    I love red currants, from which I prepare jams, pie fillings, meat sauce. Although for some reason many gardeners practically do not pay attention to this culture. One of the important methods in its cultivation is pruning. Later in the autumn, according to plan, sanitary: in adult bushes I annually remove weakened branches and aging shoots. The plant has only a few strong branches. At young bushes I clean only broken and thickening shoots. Aging bushes {10-12 years) show "rejuvenating procedures": in the spring until the beginning of the sap flow, I leave only the strongest 2-3 branches, the rest I cut off completely. In the same year young and healthy shoots begin to grow on the site of cuts.

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  3. K. Fedoseeva, St. Petersburg

    The leaves of the red currant were covered with red outgrowths. What happened to them?

    Reply
    • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

      Currant leaves are damaged by leafy gallic aphids. As a result of feeding aphids that colonize the underside of young leaves, swellings in the form of tumors (galls) of red color form on the upper side. If the aphids are severely damaged, the leaves dry up and fall off. The growth and yield decreases in plants. Control measures i. Cut the damaged leaves and destroy them.
      2. Be sure to weed the weeds around the bushes, tk. they are an intermediate host of aphids. ,
      3. If there are not too many pests, spray the currant bushes during the leaf blossoming period and again through 10 days with the following infusions:
      ■ chamomile (100 g of dry flowers pour 1 l of warm water, insist a day, dilute twice with water before use);
      ■ Onions (30 g of raw onions to pass through a meat grinder, pour 1 l of water, insist two days, strain);
      ■ garlic {5-6 g of chopped denticles pour in 1 l of water, insist in a dark warm place for a day);
      ■ Yarrow (100 g dry ground grass pour 1 l water, boil 30 minutes, dilute twice with water before use).
      4. With a high population of aphids, it is necessary to treat the bushes with one of the preparations: Aktellik, Novaktion, Fufanon, Sumicidin, and others (according to instructions).

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  4. Elena Vishnjakova, the Kamenskoye

    I want to share my thoughts about the reproduction of red currants. I do not pretend to have found the most successful variant of cultivation of this culture, but personally in my garden it works perfectly. Maybe he will like some of his readers.
    I have a bush of currant, which gives just huge berries. Where and when I bought a seedling, I don’t even remember. But I remember well that when I decided to propagate the plant, the good old and well-known way of digging up branches did not give positive results - the sprouts do not know why they dried out. I suffered for a long time, and then I tried to go the other way.
    In March, cut the branch with 4-5 kidneys and put them in a jar of water. First I looked and checked to see if the roots appeared. No, they did not grow. Okay, I think I'll have patience. I left twigs in peace, only poured water into the jar. And somewhere in a half months, the roots finally appeared.
    Assembled twigs into trimmed plastic bottles. In mid-May, she landed them with the lumps of earth in the school. Now the currant looks good to me. In the summer, she fertilized her with a weak solution of ammonium nitrate, insulated with leaves for the winter, and in spring I would be transplanted to a permanent place. The Duma: and, the harvest of new bushes will be as good as that of the old one. Ripe berries after harvest, by the way, I go through, my, scatter on the towel. When dry, I put it in bags with zippers and hide it in the freezer.
    At the same time I will share the recipe for compote. Three-liter jar of washing with soda, sterilize. Pour 2 glasses of currant and 1 a glass of sugar. Pour boiling water and cover with a sterile iron lid. Turn over, wrap it for two days.

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  5. N. Borisova The Moscow region.

    At my red currant, during the flowering, the stems began to dry up. What is this disease and how to fight it?

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    • L. TREYVAS, phytopathologist, GBS RAS Moscow

      The drying of the shoots of red currant during flowering can be associated with the spread of the disease "fashionable" for currant - tubercular necrosis of the cortex. The causative fungus causes the death of the bark and bast of individual shoots, numerous brick-red maturation pads with a diameter of up to 2 mm are formed on the affected cortex, which dry out and darken over time. These sporulation pads are clearly visible on the bushes in the autumn-winter period and in early spring, before the leaves regrow. Often it is tubercular necrosis that causes the shoots to dry out during flowering and in the summer, when leaves suddenly turn brown on the bushes and whole branches dry with berries.
      The drying of the currant shoots during flowering can be associated with the spread of pest stems - currant glass. This is a fairly large butterfly with narrow transparent wings up to 28 mm in scope. On the front wings there is a yellow-orange border, and in the middle there is a strip of blue-black color, three narrow yellow stripes are visible on the abdomen of females, and four are in males. The caterpillars are whitish, up to 30 mm long, have 16 legs, brown chest plates. Caterpillars feed on the shoot core, gnawing it and filling it with excrement. Butterfly flight and egg laying are observed in May-June. Females lay their eggs in cracks in the cortex at the base of the kidneys, the hatching caterpillars penetrate into the shoots and gradually gnaw out the core, going down to the base of the shoot, where they winter. Populated shoots at first do not differ from healthy ones. In the spring of next year, the caterpillars gnaw through a round hole for the butterfly to exit and pupate inside the damaged shoot. Only in the second year, by the end of flowering and the beginning of berry ripening, is the sudden drying of shoots with ovaries and leaves observed. It was at this time that the development of the pest and the departure of the new generation of butterflies completely ended. The presence of the pest can be seen on the drying branches, on the cut of which in the center there is a dark hole with a caterpillar running filled with excrement, and often the caterpillar itself.
      To find out the reason for the drying of your currant bushes, take a closer look at their appearance. If there are sporulation pads on the shoot bark, then this is a fungal disease tubercularia necrosis, if there are holes in the shoot section, then a pest. In any case, it is necessary to constantly remove dried shoots, and conducting preventive spring spraying of bushes in spring, before flowering and immediately after it, against a complex of diseases and pests will reduce the infectious background and reduce the number of pests. For spring treatment, they use a tank mixture of drugs: a fungicide based on copper chloroxide + an insecto-acaricide based on malathion.

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  6. O. GAVRILOVA, city of Vyborg

    Redcurrant is a healthy and productive berry. But this is not her only merit. Unlike black currants, it does not require such a serious approach to pruning.
    It seems that both the black and red currants of one field of berries, but it turned out that not. Red does not require such a serious attitude to pruning. Here the main thing is to observe the measure:
    • You can not sever a bush, you will lose a crop at once;
    • You can not allow the bush to grow as it wants and wherever it wants.
    Crop the bushes usually in the fall. I delete extra annual shoots, I leave a few (3-4) the strongest. Further I leave on 4 branches of each age, as a result the bush consists of 12 branches, it is possible less, but more never
    berries fields
    I leave. As for the branches older than 7 years, I delete them without talking. I do not regret even good strong branches, if they grow up not so. as necessary: ​​inside the bush or clumsy. Now the winter is over, and I'll go check the bushes.
    In the case of red currants I will not rush to grab the pruner, even if it seems that some branches are frozen. Finally, it will become clear only in June. And it happens, on the contrary, branches like strong and blossom well, and then in one moment will dry up. Such immediately cut out right under the root. Everything I cut off, I immediately take to burning.
    Old bushes are a separate issue. Our gardeners rarely change bushes on time, 15-year-old black and red currants are not red
    bone. I think this is wrong, there are already infections and pests. No pruning will save.
    I know that not everyone will agree with me, really, I saw very neglected bushes, on which the old branches were also fruitful. But I think that the garden should be regularly rejuvenated, buy healthy and strong plants, and not fight with sores of old bushes.

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  7. Olga

    Currant thickets
    I am not a very experienced gardener, so when I planted redcurrant bushes, I incorrectly calculated the distance between them. For several years they have grown so much that now they interfere with each other, the fruits lack light, and as a result, my harvest is so-so. Is it really necessary to uproot excess shrubs?
    Olga POTANINA, Omsk

    Reply
    • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

      Thickened planting is one of the most common mistakes gardeners make. After all, one wants to get a blooming garden right away, and the little twigs are not at all similar to the desired result - they plant more densely and more often. The result is thickets with small fruits, susceptibility to diseases and pests, and difficulty in care. Of course, uprooting is the easiest way, but there is no need to rush. It may be enough to form a bush. The method of formation depends on the strength of growth and the shape of the shrub: it is tall. low or medium, sprawling or compact.
      The most optimal distance between the bushes is 1,5-2 m, and the row spacing is -2 m. You can not plant currants close to the fence (at least 1,2-1,5 m from the fence). If all these conditions are met, try to cut the bush by cutting, removing diseased, dry shoots. Leave 3-4 branches of each year on each plant (1-, 2-, 3-, 4-, 5-year-olds). Currant bears fruit on 3-, 5-year-old shoots, and 6-, 8-year-olds are best removed by making a rejuvenating pruning.
      Replace the uprooting can also be the formation of a bush on the stem-this plant looks very original.

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  8. G. KORCHAGIN

    I read an article by a dacha woman that the red currant is treating allergies, and was overjoyed. It means that we do not think this alone with my husband! So, really this plant can be called miraculous! And the story is like that. In 2000, we moved to Moscow. Times were not easy. And until I got a job, I tried to bring something home. In short, I contracted on a plantation to harvest. Once, when we arrived on the field, we were told that the work was canceled, but allowed to collect for free the remains of the red currant (and it was already September in the yard). So I got a full bucket. Frozen almost everything, and all winter I cooked compotes or we just ate berries with cottage cheese.
    And my husband was allergic to many plants. For cereals, for example, he already had 5 "crosses" (this is the maximum number of special indicators in determining the allergen). To work from spring until autumn, he did not go out without drinking a medicine at home. And the next year my husband already wanted to take the first aid kit at the beginning of the new season, but there were no signs of an allergy yet. And we decided that for every fireman he would take tablets with him. And since then, the husband and wears them in his pocket. And he always eats berries of red currant, which we then almost half the garden planted.
    And since we’re talking about berries, I can’t help but share my recipe for instant jelly from redcurrant and sea buckthorn. It is important that they are well ripened: blushed on the bush - let them hang for a couple of weeks. Now the process itself. I prepare in advance jars with a wide neck, 500 grams. Washed, dried, put in a row, next to a bag of sugar.
    Now I take up the berries. Washed, in a colander, then on a baking sheet (pour in a layer of 2-3 cm), put in the oven. I'm preparing a juicer. I have it old, handmade, in it you can scroll berries with tassels. And new, modern, all moody. Therefore, if you have such, then after moaning the water you need to remove the berries from the brushes and only then - into the oven.
    So, as soon as the juice begins to bubble from boiling, I take out and scroll the berries. It is important that the rolled juice is still warm, so I immediately pour it into jars, pouring exactly half, and immediately finish the rest with sugar and mix everything several times. In one run, I process 7-8 liters of berries. Since the juice is warm, the sugar dissolves very quickly, and within a few minutes you will feel that your spoon is moving with difficulty for stirring, which means that you don’t need to mix anymore. Your jar will cool to the end, the jelly will be ready. I do the same with sea buckthorn, which I collect in September, not earlier.

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  9. Gennady Fedorovich BELOUSOV, Gomel region, Rechitsa city

    Many amateur gardeners prefer to plant black currant and much less often red. It is believed that the berries of her, although juicy, but the taste is sourish, which is not liked by everyone. Well, the one who loves berries is more sentimental, can get them quite simple
    way.
    In February-March, on a fine sunny day, one-year-old shoots of red currant from the middle of the bush should be cut from the bushes, where they are the most developed and strong.
    Then you need to cut down the saw on the bush of the black currant branch at an altitude of 8-10 cm from the ground. After this, the inoculation with the already available cuttings of red currant. For this
    hemp, left after removal of the branches of black currant, must be carefully cleaned with a sharp knife, split in the middle. In this cleavage insert cuttings of red currant from one or two sides, depending on their thickness (in other words, one cut can insert two cuttings).
    Cuttings from cut shoots for inoculation into the cleft are prepared as follows: an oblique cut is made with a sharp knife above the upper kidney, and a horizontal cut is about 15 cm lower. A wedge is formed from the lower end of the handle by two oblique sections about 4 cm long. One of them starts near the kidney, the other from the opposite side.
    When combining scion (red) and stock (blackcurrant), it is necessary to ensure that the layers of cambium coincide. The vaccination site must be wrapped with a pre-prepared ribbon of plastic film, and on top of the cuttings cut - gloss over garden var. After the graft and rootstock are completely fused, the ribbon from the film should be relaxed, and by autumn removed altogether.
    During the summer period, grafted cuttings are well established, give shoots, and the next year they are pleased with fruits that are larger than on the mother plant. And the taste of the berries become noticeably sweeter and more fragrant. Bushes, grafted in early spring, easily tolerate winter temperature changes and frosts.

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  10. Olga IVANOVA, Tula

    About fruits and red currant
    Red currant is a long-liver, in one place it is able to grow and bear fruit for 25 years. And if you rejuvenate the old bush regularly, then even more. After she has been offended, I cut up to a third of the old and unhealthy branches to the soil. But the tops of the branches of red currant never cut, because it is here that there is a whole bunch of fruit twigs - small bollards. which give the main crop of berries. Moreover, red currant pods live for about 8-10 years, that is, much longer than black currants.
    I noticed that the red currant yields more if the bushes are planted with a triangle at a distance of 30 cm from each other.

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  11. Inna

    The maturity dates of different varieties of currant paint differ - there are early ripe, mid ripe and late ripe. Moreover, the berries themselves on the brush ripen unevenly, so you do not have to wait for the ripening of absolutely all the fruits — it’s optimal when 3-5 unripe berries remain at the end of the brush. After harvesting, the currant can be fed with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers (40 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate per 10 l of water). Such top dressing is necessary for laying the fruit kidneys. Mineral fertilizers can be replaced with liquid organic at the rate of two 10-liter buckets per bush.

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  12. Valentina KOSHKINA, Murom

    Currants overripe!
    Last year, red currants began to bear fruit for the first time, and frankly, I missed the moment when I needed to pick it. It all seemed to me that she had not yet ripened, and then tried the berries, and there they began to have such large bones - eating such a not very pleasant one. Is there any sign that currants can be harvested? And what kind of care does the plant need after harvest?

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  13. N. Kolesnikova The Moscow region.

    Last summer, on honeysuckle, gooseberry, red currant, all the leaves dried up and looked as if scorched by fire. What was it?

    Reply
    • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

      There are several reasons for this type of damage.
      The first is the deficit of moisture in the autumn and spring-summer period of plant development. Often in the autumn lack of moisture, plants go into hibernation in a weakened state, and in the presence of sharp negative temperatures, partial damage to the kidneys and shoots is observed. However, in the spring, these shoots may start to grow and form leaves, but still their weakened state leads to drying out. Such shoots are cut out either above the soil level or over the undamaged branch.
      The second, most common cause of this type of damage to currants and gooseberries is the pest - glass. Its presence can be determined by partial or complete drying of the shoots during flowering and ripening. Cutting off the damaged branch and seeing a black hole in the center of the shoot, you can verify the presence of this pest. The flight of glass-butterfly butterflies begins after flowering of plants, then the female lays up to 60 eggs in damaged shoots or cracks in the cortex. After the exit, the caterpillar enters the center of the shoot, making black moves and eating wood. After wintering, in late May - early June of next year, the caterpillar turns into a butterfly and goes outside.
      The degree of damage to currant plants can reach 80%, gooseberries - 40-50%.
      One control measure - complete removal of infected branches

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  14. Irina

    Red and white currants are identical plants that differ from each other exclusively in the color of berries. Therefore, all that we will talk about red currants today can be applied to her white "sister."
    About soil
    Red currant prefers to grow on fairly fertile and fertile soils.
    To a greater extent, it resembles sandy loam and water-intensive clay soils with a neutral or slightly acid reaction of the medium. Not suitable for the same are lands with high acidity. as well as poor, dry, heavy and cold soils.
    About landing
    For a plant, it is better to take out areas that are well-lighted and protected from cold winds, located in the open area.
    Before planting, place for future plants should be thoroughly cleaned of weeds, especially for wheat grass, which must be removed together with the rhizome. After that, you can start digging pits. the depth and width of which must be at least 0,4-0.5 m and to the following
    fueling them. For this, the soil is mixed with "organic" (humus or compost) and mineral additives (superphosphate and potassium sulfate in the amount of 3 and 2, respectively).
    As a rule, it is advisable to plant this crop in the early spring or in the middle of autumn (late September - early October), observing the interval between plants of at least one and a half meters. Seedlings are planted directly, after which they are watered abundantly. It is advisable to mulch the soil under the plants with humus. After planting the bushes, it is necessary to trim them, shortening the branches to a length of not more than 15 cm.
    06 care
    Feeding
    During the first few years of life, shrubs need increased nutrient input, especially during fruiting. In this case, a positive effect is achieved by both root and foliar top dressing. At the same time, it is worth remembering that the first are carried out exclusively during flowering and ovary formation.
    moisture
    Redcurrant is a plant resistant to drought, and therefore negatively reacts to excessive moisture in the soil, stagnation of moisture and too close to its root system of groundwater. However
    this does not mean that during the period when the ovaries are formed and filled, and after harvesting, it can do without irrigation. Trimming
    The first trimming of red currant is carried out on the second or third year of the shrub's life. At the same time, four or six of the most powerful shoots are selected, which will become the basis for the formation of the crown, while the rest are cut at the base.
    At the first pruning, the shoots left must be shortened, and in the future it is better to refuse this operation, since it will be followed by a decrease in the yield of berries. The subsequent care for red currant bushes consists only in replacing the old branches with young ones, when the first branches are cut at the base, about each other, weakened and located close to the ground twigs. It is recommended to rejuvenate this culture from the sixth to the seventh year of plant life.

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