Bench with a canopy to give your own hands
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How to make a garden bench with your own hands
This easy-to-make bench under a latticed canopy will give your gardened area a special charm. In the shade on it on a sunny day, you can relax and if you plant nearby several climbing plants, for a year or two, this place will become a green oasis, where you can spend time in privacy or with friends.
Such an elegant corner for relaxation in the green zone of your countryside can be built in less than four days off.
We will try to tell not only how to build such a bench, but also about the technological methods that make it possible to make beautifully curved details. At first glance, their manufacture may seem complicated, but this work is not too difficult. The main thing is that the applied efforts will be justified by the results, which for sure you will like.
Materials for the bench are inexpensive, and you need a regular joinery tool. Of a special tool, you may only need a pair of powerful clamps that open at least up to 400 mm.
DRILLING CYLINDER SEAM BANKS
First of all, with the help of thin nails and flexible rails, it is necessary to mark the curvilinear bars of the seat B on three boards measuring 2400x300x50 mm. The location of the nails is shown in Fig. 1.
Pressing the flexible wooden or plastic strip to the nails, draw the lower and upper arcs on the board-billet with a bright marker or red pencil. Such a markup will be visible better than a trace from a simple pencil.
Seat bars along the marking lines can be cut with a manual circular saw (photo 1). Make sure that the disc does not leave the marking line. First, cut one block and grinder with a coarse sandpaper (grain "80" or "100"), smooth out its edges. Then use this ready-made board to mark up the other two.
INSTALLING SUPPORT
On the back of one of the seat boards, mark the position of the pillars of the bench (photo 2). Then put it on the ground and mark out the arc of the seat and the centers of the racks on the platform. Dig out the holes and fill in them with a layer of gravel in 150 mm. Then insert into the holes asbestos cement pipes 0200 mm. Stands insert into the pipes on the plumb line and secure in this position with struts (photo 3). To hold them in the desired position, temporarily fasten the posts with screws to the seat board, and place the board with the underside facing up. Fill the ground around the pipes and tamp it. Pour concrete into pipes.
WE MAKE THE SEAT
On one of the middle racks at an altitude of 50 cm from the ground, make a mark and, on the level, transfer it to other racks. With the screws, attach the back plate E to the posts by the marks so that it equally protrudes beyond the outer racks (photo 4).
To install the seats from the seat, press each one into place against the back plate and drill a hole 06 mm for the upper fixing bolt. Drill a hole to a depth of 6 mm for the head and washer with a drill bit. Lubricate the seat support with the mounting adhesive and attach it to the stand with a bolt. Place the support horizontally, then drill a hole in it and install the lower bolt. Add the second seat support on the other side of the rack.
After attaching all the seat supports, with a clearance of 10 mm, replace all the seat boards. To ensure the same gaps, install calibration gaps between them. Align the boards at the ends and attach them with screws (photo 5).
Reinstall the seat back D, pressing it against the posts using clamps. First, tighten one clamp, then another, and so on until the backrest presses against all the racks. Secure the backrest with 75-mm screws (photo 6).
ROOF REFERENCE INSTALLATION AND REAR PLAN
The roof is supported by boards F cantilevered with bolts with a section of 50 × 100 mm with 20 ends sawn off at an angle. To install them correctly, first attach a back rail at a height of 1600 mm from the seat supports. Then file the ends of two suitable boards with a cross section of 85 × 25 mm at an angle of 150 °. Clamp these guide boards against the sides of the rack flush with the top edge of the rear rail so that the cantilever support of the roof slopes towards the back of the seat (photo 7). If someone supports the support in the right position, then you can easily attach it with bolts as well as the seat supports.
Then, with the same step from each other, replace all the rear strips E. Start from the bottom and release the ends by the outer posts at least by 75 mm. In order not to split the bars, drill the holes for the screws in them.
FLEXIBILITY AND INSTALLATION OF ROOF ARRANGEMENT
To get a smooth bend of the bars with a section of 50 × 50 mm for the roof, make a simple bending device (photo 8). Lay on the goats 400 mm apart from each other as a trim template, remaining after sawing out the bars of the seat. Fasten them with several transverse boards on which to lay the roof bars and fix them with the help of pads and clamps.
Pour a batch of sticks several times with steep boiling water. Heated and moist wood will easily take the form of a template. Leave the bars clamped for a day.
When the package is dismantled, the bars will certainly spring back a little, but when assembled, they will easily bend to the desired curvature. First, attach the bar, setting it at a distance of 40 mm from the rear end of the console supports and firing 40 mm on the sides (Figure 2). Aligning their overhang on one side, add the rest of the bars to the roof roofing over the bench (photo 9). Then, using a jigsaw or manual circular saw, cut the ends of the roof bars along one line, leaving suitable overhangs.
FINAL DECK
Finishing the finished bench is primarily about preparing it for painting. Beforehand, it is necessary to prune the protruding ends of the bars (if necessary), carefully sand the outer surfaces and edges of the bars of the seat and back, round their ribs.
After pouring a bench, cover it with paint, giving a strong weatherproof film.
COUNCIL
For boards of a seat pick up boards at which cracks or knots would appear out of a zone of a bend. For parts with a cross section of 50 × 100 mm and 50 × 50 mm, select blanks without knots, as they are better bent, and knots easily break. When buying, carefully select lumber. Warped is better to put aside.
Garden bench with your hands - step by step instruction
- On a planed board with a cross section of 50 × 300 mm, mark the curved bar of the seat B, which has a smooth bend, and saw it out with a hand circular saw.
- Saw a disk with sharp teeth, setting it to the depth of the saw cut 45 mm.
- On one of the seat bars mark the position of the pillars of the bench and on it, as a template, dig holes 0200 mm and depth 750 mm.
- In the chimney installed in the hole, insert the posts, fix them with struts and concret.
- Attach the back plate E to the posts with screws. Determine the position of the supports C from the seat and securely connect them to the posts with mounting glue and fixing bolts.
- With a clearance of 10 mm, place the seat bars on the supports and drill screw holes in them. Screws length 75 mm and on the mounting adhesive fix the bars to the supports.
- Press the backrest D of the seat with the clamps to the middle posts. Make sure that its ends protrude beyond the outer posts at the same distance. Fix the backrest in this position with screws.
- To the sides of each stoics clamp press the guide boards, which determine the angle of the roof of the bench. After exposing their position, drill the holes and attach the cantilevered supports to the place on the glue and bolts. Saw the posts flush with the supports.
- The device for bending roof bars is made from scraps of boards left after cutting the seat bars. Fold the eight bars into a bag and press them against the cross strips as a template.
- Assemble the roof lath with the installation of the front and rear, the bars. Then, with the same pitch, using spacers, attach the rest.
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