Lilies - planting and care, varieties and species
Contents ✓
- ✓ Longflower (Longiflorum)
- ✓ Asian (Asiatic)
- ✓ Candidum
- ✓ Oriental, oriental (Oriental)
- ✓ Trumpet & Aurelian
- ✓ American (American)
- ✓ Martagon (Martagon)
- ✓ Intersectional hybrids of lilies
- ✓ Oriental lilies
- ✓ What to plant lilies with - compatibility
- ✓ Secrets of planting oriental lilies
- ✓ Asian Lilies
- ✓ Secrets of planting Asian lilies
- ✓ Varieties of lilies
- ✓ Choosing a variety of lilies for connoisseurs
- ✓ Planting lilies
- ✓ Planting time of lilies
- ✓ Processing before planting
- ✓ Depth of landing
- ✓ Distance between bulbs
- ✓ Care and reproduction of lilies
- ✓ Care for lilies
The secrets of growing lilies - care for lilies, proper planting, popular varieties
Lily - one of the famous flower crops - more than six thousand of its hybrid varieties are known, obtained from crosses of various species. In 1962, the American gardener Jan de Graf systematized varieties and hybrids of lilies, combining them by origin. This classification in 1964 was accepted as international. It will prove to be very useful, especially for beginners, because the most important features, such as soil requirements, resistance to frost, drought or excess moisture, and resistance to disease are the same in most lilies.
Lilies are usually placed on the middle or background of the flower beds.
Strive to arrange them so that other plants block off about half of the stem from all sides, from where the flower garden is viewed. Then, the lily shoots that turn yellow after flowering will not catch your eye. In the foreground, the hosts, geichers, geraniums, lavender, hyssop, stachis, brunner and other cultures with beautiful leaves will look good, retaining their decorative qualities throughout the season. In between the groups of lilies or behind them, you can plant a perennial blossoming aster, phlox, echinacea. Their above-ground part considerably grows, becomes more magnificent after the flowering of most varieties of lilies. In such a composition, the plants next to the lilies will almost close in the second half of the summer, and the place vacant in the flower garden will become invisible.
Recently, undersized varieties of lilies with a stem height of up to 30 cm have been popular. On the average plan of a mixed flower garden, they are almost invisible. Sometimes they are recommended for rockeries. But against the background of stones or pebble dusting, they are too clearly visible, and after flowering, when it is still impossible to remove the yellowing shoots, so as not to disrupt the development of the bulb, they look ugly. Planting among soil-covering plants with a shallow root system — creeping phloxes, gypsophila in rockeries or in the foreground of a flower garden — is suitable for these varieties.
But the main way to use miniature varieties is container planting. Any varieties of lilies develop well in containers and bloom lushly under the condition of timely top dressing, but undersized are more and more mechanically stable. The container with them does not turn over, and the stems do not break if you accidentally touch them. When the lilies in the container lose their presentable appearance, it can simply be removed away from the eyes, replacing it with the same container, but with later flowers, for example, with miniature dahlias.
It is important to consider
Appearance of lilies varies considerably with the course of the season. Conditionally, there are four stages.
- Vegetation. From May to the beginning of flowering grow flower stems, covered with bright green foliage. Among other plants, lilies do not attract attention, but they do not spoil the appearance of the flower garden.
- Bloom. Blossomed exquisite flowers, rare in beauty, are visible from afar. This is the main thing for which the lilies are planted.
- The end of flowering and fruiting. Plant shoots lose their beauty, gradually acquire a yellowish or brownish hue.
- Peace. The stems dry out, they can be removed from the flower bed, the place of the lilies in the flower beds is empty.
Longflower (Longiflorum)
Flowers from tubular to almost stellate, usually white, very fragrant. Blossom in July-August. Plants are not sufficiently hardy, susceptible to viral diseases. Suitable for forcing and growing in pots.
Asian (Asiatic)
The flower shape is usually cupped or chalmoid, there are several varieties with double flowers. Coloring is white, pink, cream, yellow, orange, two- and three-color, red and maroon, almost black. The disadvantage is the lack of aroma. Unpretentious, winter-hardy, slightly susceptible to fungal diseases and do not suffer from viral infections. They bloom well in sunny areas and in partial shade. They cannot stand lime, they prefer neutral or slightly acid fertile soils. Easily propagated vegetatively. Many varieties of this section form onion bulbs in leaf axils (bulbs). Such varieties are called bulbous.
Candidum
The flowers are tubular or funnel-shaped, white or yellow in color, fragrant. Varieties of this group are susceptible to viral and fungal diseases. They need reliable shelter for the winter, a sunny location, well-fertilized, preferably calcareous, soil. Bulbs are planted in August, without deepening, since hybrids do not have supra-bulbous roots. In September, plants form rosettes of wintering leaves, and next year a flower-bearing shoot.
Oriental, oriental (Oriental)
Flowers are fragrant and odorless, tubular, cup-shaped, star-shaped, chalmoid, very diverse in color. Blossom in August-September. For a long time were considered unsuitable for cultivation in the central strip of Russia. But the modern assortment is replenished with varieties that successfully blossom and multiply in the Moscow region. Usually strongly affected by fungal diseases and viruses, but recently there are more and more new varieties that are resistant to infections.
Trumpet & Aurelian
The flowers are fragrant, tubular, less often cup-shaped or star-shaped, yellow, pink, orange. The outer side of the perianth is often darker than the inside. Blossom in July-August. Frost-resistant, prefer a good garden soil with the addition of leaf humus. Do not tolerate acidic soils. Not susceptible to viral diseases and quite resistant to fungal infections. They need a sunny location and well-drained soil. The flower of tubular lilies is formed outside the bulb - it is laid during the growing season on the flower stalk. Therefore, in the case of late frosts, the absence of flowering or the appearance of inferior, ugly flowers is possible.
American (American)
Flowers are usually chalmoid, two-colored, with a wine-red crab on a light background. The fragrance is weak. Blossom in July. They are rare in culture, but they are well suited for the middle zone of Russia. Prefer sunny areas. They need abundant watering and weakly acidic soils. Rarely form the daughter bulbs, vegetatively reproduce better onion scales.
Martagon (Martagon)
The flowers are chalmoid, of various colors, with dark spots on the inner side of the perianth lobes. The fragrance of the flowers is weak.
The most frost-hardy among lilies, durable plants, are not susceptible to viral diseases, almost do not suffer from gray rot and are rarely affected by fusarium. Long grow in one place, the transplant is badly tolerated. Prefer partial shade. Need regular watering, the soil is undemanding. They grow slowly, the daughter bulbs form rarely, so they are multiplied mainly by bulbous scales.
Intersectional hybrids of lilies
Of great interest are the plants obtained from the crossing of varieties from different sections among themselves. They are called intersectional hybrids. Often breeders manage to combine the advantages of different sections thus eliminating some disadvantages. We have already received several groups:
- AA (Aurelian x Asiatic). Bloom in July, as a rule, have a strong flavor. Frost-resistant, not prone to gray rot and Fusarium.
- LA (Longiflorum x Asiatics). The most numerous group. Resistant to mushroom diseases and winter hardiness. Asian lilies inherited a variety of colors, but they have larger and beautiful flowers, a pleasant aroma. They grow well in open or slightly shaded areas with a neutral or slightly acid reaction of the soil. For the winter planting of this group of lilies is desirable to cover with leaves or peat.
- LO (Longiflorum x Oriental). Flowers are short-tubular or funnel-shaped, white, white-pink or dense pink color, with a pleasant aroma.
- LP (Trumpet x Longiflorum). Well winter in the middle zone of, resistant to disease. They have beautiful multicolor inflorescences.
- OA (Oriental x Asiatic). Pretty unpretentious, viable plants. Bloom in July.
- OT (OR), or Orientpet (Oriental x Trumpet), are hybrids. Plants with very large beautiful fragrant flowers resemble oriental, but less capricious. Bloom from mid-July.
Oriental lilies
Once it was believed that the eastern lilies are too tender and capricious for growing them in the middle band, because because of late flowering they go to winter poorly prepared and often freeze. But modern technologies have allowed to create many resistant varieties. Some are already blooming from the second half of July, even if they are planted quite late in the spring (for example, after purchasing in the garden center or by mail).
Oriental lilies, or orientals, are hybrids obtained by crossing East Asian species. Today, this section has about 300 varieties. It is distinguished by a wealth of shades and shapes of large, more often very fragrant flowers. Two and three-color varieties are available. They bloom from late July to September, after the most common Asian lilies in our gardens have bloomed. You will not regret buying Oriental lilies. When they bloom, your neighbors, friends and acquaintances will definitely ask where this pleasant aroma comes from.
What to plant lilies with - compatibility
Overheating of roots and bulbs is harmful to lilies. To avoid it, use mulch. It is even better to plant a planting ground with ground cover plants (planted directly above the bulbs), other perennials and especially low shrubs (planted side by side). Lilies look better if their lower part is covered, and next to the bushes they also better winter: here snow accumulates, and the damage to the shoots by late frosts is less frequent.
Secrets of planting oriental lilies
Bulbs of oriental lilies are recommended to be planted in August. Please note that they do not tolerate drying. If the planting material is obtained from the division of the nests on your site, plant the lilies as soon as possible after digging, and if you buy bulbs in the store, make sure that they are not flaccid and wrinkled.
For planting, choose warm sunny areas with well-drained fertile acidic soils. The soil layer over the adult onion should average two diameters, but not less than 10-12 cm, and in the northern regions it is recommended to even deepen them to 15-20 cm - so they will germinate later, and the likelihood of damage to the buds by spring frosts will decrease. Luxurious flowers need enough space for nutrition - try to maintain a distance of 20-25 cm between the bulbs.
After the surface of the earth is seized by frost, plantations are covered with a layer of fallen leaves, after the melting of snow, this shelter is removed to allow the soil to warm up.
The main secret of a successful wintering of eastern lilies is that the soil should be dry. In the autumn, wait until the weather is dry and cover the plantings with waterproof material. The place should be flat, without a slope, so that water does not flow under the shelter. It will not be noticeable in the flower garden if you plant around flowers that splendidly grow at the end of summer and autumn: buzulnik, window sill, helenium, perennial asters.
Orientation in a container is easier to grow than in flower beds, and who will refuse the opportunity to put fragrant flowers on the terrace, patio, balcony? Bulbs can be purchased off-season at a discount - because they are planted at any time. Choose varieties up to 50 cm tall. The main thing is that the container with growing lilies does not dry out and does not overheat. After flowering, stop watering and keep the bulbs dry, and for the winter, put the container in a cool place with a temperature of no higher than 5 ° C.
If you like oriental lilies, but you doubt the success of their cultivation, pay attention to the OT-hybrids obtained from the crossings of Oriental and Trumpet lilies. They have all the advantages of the eastern, but are more resilient in comparison with them. Blossom from the middle of July. Planting bulbs better in the raised flower beds, when preparing the soil in it add coniferous litter and sand.
Asian Lilies
Unpretentious and unusually spectacular - not one of the groups in popularity can be compared with Asian lilies: they are grown almost everywhere, even in permafrost in Alaska! The varieties of this section give a lot of onion children and are therefore ideal for flower beds: after buying a small package of bulbs of each variety you like, in a few years you can divide the nests and decorate the garden with spectacular curtains of lilies obtained on your site.
Spotlight on color and shape
Unfortunately, Asian hybrids do not have an aroma, like their relatives from other sections. But in terms of the variety of shapes and colors of the flower, they have no equal. Only here there are terry varieties: yellow Fata Morgana, orange Double Whiskey, pink Aphrodita. Also noteworthy are the varieties of Tango (with a rare or dense, merging into a dark tan spot), Brashmark (with dark strokes in the center of the petals) and others. The unique decorative qualities of Asiatic lilies are a treasured “bait” for collectors and designers.
Secrets of planting Asian lilies
- The lilies of this section cannot tolerate lime in the soil at all. When you prepare seats for them, add peat.
- As a mulch, use coniferous litter - it helps to preserve the friability of the soil and supports the slightly acidic reaction of the soil solution.
- The best place for Asiatic lilies is elevated areas that are illuminated by the sun for several hours a day (before or after noon).
Share them more often
Asian lilies need to be dug up and divided more often than other varieties — about once every 3 years. Their nests grow rapidly, and the bulbs begin to interfere with each other. If you do not complete the division on time, the flowers are crushed.
When buying a choice of Asian lilies for flower beds and container planting, pay attention not only to the height and color, but also to the location of the flower. Varieties with flowers directed downwards are distinguished by a more modest, refined appearance - they can be used even in natural flower gardens. In containers, low varieties will look good, the flowers of which look up.
Varieties of lilies
Beginning gardeners and those who are not going to devote much time to caring for flower beds should pay attention to unpretentious varieties of lilies. As a rule, they do not possess aroma, but their decorative qualities are at their best.
- Alaska
- Asian hybrid. Height 90-100, see Star-shaped flowers, pointing upwards, white, with a rare crab in the center and a yellow spot around the nectary. Stamen filaments are greenish white. Diameter 15-16 see Blooms in July.
- Salmon Classic
- LA hybrid. Height 80 cm. The flowers are cup-shaped, directed upwards, pinkish-orange in color with a darker center. It blooms in mid-July, with a spring planting - 70 days after the germination of the bulbs.
- Barcelona
- Asian hybrid. Height 80 see. Flowers are red with a yellow center, rather small, pointing upwards. Blossoms very abundantly, in June-July.
- Apricot Beauty
- Asian hybrid. The variety was obtained in 1964 year in Holland. The plant has a height of 60-70, see Flowers with a diameter of about 15 cm, cup-shaped, pointing upwards, apricot-orange, a very beautiful shade, with cherry-colored carp. The variety grows well, is resistant to diseases.
- Geneva
- Asian hybrid. Height 69-80 see. Flowers are pale pink, goblet, with a darker center and a sparse crab at the base of the petals. Sent upwards. Blossoms in July, it grows well.
- Lollypop
- Asian hybrid. Plant height 70 cm, star-shaped flower, directed upward, with a diameter of about 15 cm, with bright pink tips. It blooms earlier than other lilies of the group, during wintering in open ground - in June. Prefers the sun. Spectacular and unpretentious variety.
- Landfill
- Asian hybrid. Height 70 see. Flowers are tubular, pointing upward, dark purple, almost black. Blooms in July. Very effective variety for flower beds, can be used as a basis for exquisite color combinations.
- OrangeArt
- Tango-Asian hybrid. Height 110 cm. The flowers are bright orange with a dense dark speck, merging closer to the center into solid brown “tan marks”, directed upward.
- Fata Morgana
- Asian hybrid. Plant height of 90-100, see Flowers are cup-shaped, look up; bright yellow with a dark crab. Flower terry, diameter 17 see inflorescence racemose. Blooms in July. Forms an effective abundant flowering thicket, very good for flower beds.
- Chianti
- Asian hybrid. Plant height 90-120 cm, flower diameter 8-15 cm, goblet, wide open, directed upward. Petals are pale pink, tender shade. It blooms profusely in July or in 90 days after planting, it grows well.
Choosing a variety of lilies for connoisseurs
Fragrant lilies with exquisite large flowers-not only for sophisticated florists. Having carefully read the recommendations in this issue of the magazine, you can grow them even if you do not have much experience. You just need to make a little more effort.
- Cherbourg
- Eastern hybrid. Height 90-100, see Alabaster-white flowers, with a light yellow blurry center and wavy edges, pointing upwards.
- Rio Negro
- Eastern hybrid. Height 130 see Flowers up to 18 cm in diameter, crimson-red, with a contrasting thin white border and a dark purple rare claw, wavy along the edge. Blossoms in July-August.
- Shocking
- OT-hybrid. Height 130 see. The flowers are bright red, with a wide pale yellow border along the edge, up to 21 cm in diameter, directed horizontally, fragrant. The variety is quite stable. Blooms in early August.
- Montezuma
- Eastern hybrid. Height 130 cm. Flowers very large (27 cm), with a strong aroma, purple-red with dark purple crooked, directed horizontally. Blooms in July.
- Brasilia
- Eastern hybrid. Height 120 see. Flowers are pale pink, with a brighter blurred fringe and wavy edges and a rare pink crab. Directed horizontally, diameter of the flower to 27 see Blooms in August.
- 'Manissa
OT-hybrid. Height 100-130 see. Flowers are golden yellow, with a brighter center, tubular form, directed horizontally. Diameter of the flower 25 see Dissolve in July.
Planting lilies
Place
For lilies in the garden, choose sunny or slightly shaded, sheltered from the wind areas with well-drained soils - from slightly acidic to calcareous. To clarify what soil requirements are shown by the varieties of each group, you can in the "Classification" section. Common to all varieties is that they do not tolerate moisture stagnation. Areas where melt and rain water stagnate are unsuitable for growing lilies, and clayey soils that are too heavy need improvement.
soil
The roots of lilies penetrate to a depth of 60 cm. Therefore, the soil is treated to a depth of 40-60 cm. 1 bucket of sand and peat are added to the heavy soil, 1 bucket of peat per 1 m2 in the light soil. In addition, for each square meter of planting, 2-3 buckets of well-rotted manure are applied (it must be aged for at least three years) and the soil is filled with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers (100 g of superphosphate and 50 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m2). For varieties that prefer slightly alkaline and calcareous soils, 200-500 g of wood ash or chalk are applied, under eastern lilies and OT hybrids, gravitating to slightly acidic soil, a mixture of equal parts of peat, soddy soil and humus is prepared and spilled with a strong solution of potassium permanganate or coniferous litter in the usual soil mixture for lilies.
Planting time of lilies
Planting and replanting of lilies are usually carried out when plants are at rest: from late August to late September.
Processing before planting
The bulbs must be etched for 30 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate (5 g per 10 L of water) or any special bulb dressing that is used according to the instructions on the package. Bulbs from their own garden before it is washed under a stream of water, dead scales are removed, the roots are shortened to 5 cm.
Depth of landing
The bulbs are planted at a depth equal to three of their diameters, but not less than 8 cm. The rules for planting candidum hybrids differ: all works are carried out no later than August, and the depth is calculated so that the thickness of the soil layer above the top of the bulb is no more than 3. See Martagon- hybrids are planted, on the contrary, somewhat deeper than the general rule dictates, but at the same time as most other varieties.
Distance between bulbs
Depends on the height and power of the plant. High varieties are placed at a distance of 20-25 cm from each other, low - 10-15 cm. After planting, especially in dry weather, areas with planted bulbs are carefully watered. Bulbs bought in the spring are planted in the same way, but in May.
Some lilies - Asian, tubular, oriental hybrids - prefer open sunny places, others - varieties of lilies from the marchagon group - can be grown only in partial shade and with significant shading. Fortunately, there is an external feature that allows you to accurately determine the place for planting: if the stem has supra-bulbar (annual, annual formed) roots, the varieties need light shading.
Lilies work well in raised flower beds, on terraces, which provide plantings with drainage. But one should not place them close to the retaining walls of the southern and northern exposures.
Planting depth may vary depending on the mechanical composition of the soil: on the lungs, the depth will be slightly greater, on the heavy - less.
In one place without transplantation, lilies are grown on average about 5 years. Exceptions are Asian and LA hybrids, which require transplanting once in 3, and slowly developing tubular and marchon-hybrids, which up to 7 and more years can develop in one place without transplantation.
The optimal time for transplanting and planting lilies in central Russia is August-September, in the southern regions - October. You can plant later, when the temperature of the soil is close to zero, but then well cover the plants for the winter. Planting is insulated with dry leaves when the topsoil freezes. And so that they are not carried away by the wind, press with the spruce branches.
Asian hybrids can be transplanted throughout the season, even in blooming condition. Just do it carefully, do not damage the roots! After transplanting, they need abundant watering and shading. It is better to immediately remove all the buds - in this case, the bulbs and roots will develop well, and next year the plants will bloom profusely.
Care and reproduction of lilies
Reproduction by onion scales
This is the most effective way, it is applicable to almost all the lilies. Scales are removed during but it is best to do this in the spring or autumn when lilies are transplanted. Reproduction by scales allows you to multiply the variety you like, having obtained the necessary number of plants for the flower garden.
- Roughen the land, trying not to disturb the roots, remove the bulb and, lightly pressing on the scales, break the 5-6 outer scales. The site of the break should be disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate and sprinkled with a mixture of crushed charcoal and sulfur. Then return the bulb to its original place and sprinkle with earth.
- Disinfect the flakes with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate, then treat with a solution (Kornevina, heteroauxin). After processing the flakes, dry and dust with a mixture of crushed charcoal with sulfur.
- When separating the flakes in spring, they can be planted directly in the open ground - after 5-6 cm, with aisles of 20-25 cm, deepening by 2/3 of the height. Mulch the soil with peat crumb or humus, plant the shade. Do not let the soil dry out! In the autumn, small bulbs formed from scales can be planted for growing.
Care for lilies
In the spring, after removing shelters from planting heat-loving varieties, loosen the surface layer of soil to preserve moisture. While the plants do not bud, they need enough, but not excessively moist soil. To the roots do not overheat and do not dry out, it is recommended to mulch the soil with humus or peat crumb. At the end of flowering and some time after its completion, the plants are watered under the root, trying not to wet the leaves. In autumn, after the transition of lilies to rest, areas with oriental hybrids should be covered with waterproof film.
When the first leaves appear, the plants are fed a mullein solution (1:10) or full mineral fertilizer (40-50 g per 1 m2). Repeat during the period when the plants gain buds and during the staining of the buds, but no later than August 15. For most varieties, with the exception of those who prefer acidic soil, it is useful to apply wood ash 2-3 times per season at a rate of 100 g per m2 - this helps to increase the size of the flowers, increases the intensity of their color, and increases the resistance of plants to various diseases.
Growing lily flowers on a note:
If the lilies grew in one place 5 years, it's time to transplant them.
A month and a half after flowering cut the pruner with stems at 2 / 3 and note that large and overgrown nests are disintegrating, so you need to carefully dig the plants-use the garden forks better.
In bulbs, prun up to 10 cm roots, remove rusty and spotted scales. Before planting a new bulb location, you can hold 20 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Planting lilies in autumn - all the nuances
- Diseases and pests of lilies - how to fight
- Reproduction of lilies, methods and selection of planting material
- Growing lilies - create the right conditions for lilies
- If lilies degenerate - transplant will help
- Lilies - the best companions for daylilies in the garden
- LA Lily Hybrids - Planting and Care
- Types of lilies and flower history
- The structure of lilies - flowers, stems, leaves and bulbs
- Lilies - varieties, classification of lilies, photos
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Are lilies cascading, ampelous, blue?
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- Remember: there are no lilies climbing, ampelous, cascading, blue, blue ... If the seller is actively imposing such a product on you, do not fall for the trick. Do not be fooled by the pictures attached to the product - this is a frank photoshop. Even various certificates are being forged now.
My advice
Take planting material in color. Only then are you guaranteed to buy the right variety. The season for the sale of blooming lilies usually begins in late June. In this case, you can often find quite tall (up to 2 m) and with very large inflorescences of OT hybrids. Anna FEDOSOVA, landscape designer, Riga
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Advise what to do if the lilies sprouted? Reply.
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very well served
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If the lilies are affected by gray rot.
It is an infectious disease that develops throughout the year, especially during the flowering period. The leaves first appear brownish spots, which then turn pale, forming a darker, watery edge. The spots increase in size and gradually cover the entire leaf, causing its death. With a high degree of development of gray rot, stems, buds, petals, bulbs are affected. The infection in the soil on the plant remains and in the root outlet of the leaves is hibernating. Disease in the spring passes from sick plants to healthy ones. Control measures
■ Etch the bulbs in the fungicide solution before planting.
■ In spring, after emergence of shoots, shed the soil with a solution of fungicide (0,2% Fundazolum, 0,1% Topsin-M,
0,1% Rajek, 0,1% Bordeaux fluid, etc.), and the plants themselves spray 2-3 times per season with the same drugs.
■ Bulbs should be cleaned from the ground after digging, from the ground, to inspect, to remove the affected flakes and to dry.
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Yesterday, at an exhibition in Novosibirsk, I bought "foolish" perennial gladioli, which, like, do not dig out and lilies with large sprouts. What should I do with purchases to save planting material?
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A pest from the leaf beetle family attacked the lilies - a lily cracker. The beetle itself is very cute: lacquered red, with a black belly. Gardeners aptly called him a fireman. But his larvae, which we see in the photo, in addition to harming bulbous plants, also do not look very aesthetically pleasing, as they are covered with toxic brown mucus
from their excrement. For this reason, they are not eaten even by birds.
The beetle and its larvae eat leaves and buds, especially lilies and hazel grouses. Moreover, larvae are much more gluttonous than adults.
The most reliable and common way to deal with a pest is to collect it manually. Getting started is better from early spring, before adult beetles lay their eggs. Since dealing with larvae is not a pleasant occupation, you certainly cannot do without gloves.
Years of pest begins in May, but often stretches from April to June. If the plantings are examined often and carefully, then a few weeks from the pest can get rid of. Chemicals designed specifically to fight with the lily-bladder, does not exist. Usually use the remedies recommended for combating Colorado beetles. To use them is only when a massive invasion of the pest.
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On the leaves of lilies in my flower garden I found some dirty lumps. I tried to crush one - inside were red larvae, similar to the larvae of the Colorado potato beetle. What kind of pest is it and how to get rid of it?
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Two years ago, my husband and I inherited a plot from my grandmother. And the first thing I did was to break a lily flower bed.
Started with two bulbs of Asian lily. Now in my collection about thirty kinds and every year they are becoming more and more. I already feel almost knowledgeable in growing lilies, so I will gladly share my observations.
THE SOIL
My lilies grow on a sunny plot. I prepare the soil on the day of planting the bulb. I mix soil, ash, purchased peat (1: 1: 1), add fertilizers (nitrogen, phosphorus and potash in 1 tsp). Then I make a hole for three diameters of a bulb, I fill it with the prepared mixture to half, put an onion and again priporoshivayu the same mixture, and then the ground. The distance between the lilies is left 15-20, see.
SUPPLIERS
Since when planting I make all the necessary fertilizing, then on
throughout the growing season lilies do not fertilize. Only during the budding period I once water the infusion of grass. Finely chop the weeds and fill them with water (10 l). The fermentation period is 5 days in the sun. Before use, I dilute the infusion with water in a ratio of 1: 1. I spend abundant watering once every 10 days, only so that water does not fall on the leaves.
AFTER FLOWERING
I start pruning when all the leaves are completely yellow. Peneček leave 5-6 see
For the winter I hide my lilies with straw, and on top of the roofing material (you can use other material that does not allow water to pass through). In the spring, as soon as the snow comes down, I remove the shelter.
I buy bulbs and adult plants from spring to late autumn. If I buy a flowering lily in the summer, then I plant it immediately to a permanent place, and it pleases me with its divine beauty until the cold.
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Try to cause bulb formation artificially. To do this, during the budding period, remove the flower buds from the plant. In this case, even in non-bulbous lilies bulbs are formed, or bulb-buds grow at the base. When they get stronger, separate them and arrange them on a separate bed to grow.
Remove the buds at the very beginning of the formation. If they have already painted, they start to blossom, it's useless to do it. Separated from the stem of the bulb in late summer planted in the ground at a depth of 2-3 cm, watered, mulched. For the third year after planting, the plants will bloom.
This method is good in that it can easily obtain a sufficient amount of planting material. However, to obtain bulbs, you have to sacrifice flowering ...
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I grow a beautiful lily, but it does not give either children or bulbochek. They say that it can be propagated by scales, but the bulb is one, and I feel sorry for it. Is it possible to propagate a lily in some other way?
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After the end of flowering, feed the lilies with superphosphate and potassium sulfate. You can also use complex fertilizers with an increased content of these elements (for example, "Kemira Autumn", "Autumn").
Lilies respond well to the introduction of wood ash 3-4 times per season. This technique significantly increases the resistance to disease and the intensity of flowering plants.
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Last year planted lilies late, so I did not have time to feed them. It did not happen in the spring. Now they are already blooming. Than they can be fed up?
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Summer is not the best time to plant lilies. But it is during flowering that they are now most often sold in% of the markets. The fact is that sellers are much more profitable to sell a flowering plant, the price of which is higher than the bulb in the fall. But no matter how beautiful the dug plant looks, one must remember that the bulb has not yet ripened, and in the end it is we who are interested in it. Therefore, in order for the bulb to survive, before planting, it is necessary to remove all the buds from the plant, organize partial shade for it, and water it well.
Best of all, the transplant in the flowering state is tolerated by the unpretentious Asian hybrids. But even they sometimes take a long time and get sick.
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Usually, lilies are planted in autumn or spring. And recently they began to sell in blossoming kind, moreover, there are many interesting colors. Should I buy flowering lilies for planting?
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You can not deprive the lily of the leaves so early. While the stems are green, they are never cut at all, but only slightly shortened, removing the testes. Preparing for the winter, they gradually give up the nutrients to the bulb, which gives it the opportunity to increase in size and lay the flower buds for the next year.
It is best to trim prickly yellow stems. As a rule, it occurs one and a half months after the lilies bloom. Otherwise, next year you may not see a lush bloom. Keep this in mind when you decide to pick a bouquet of lilies. Never cut the entire stem. Leave at least his quarter with the leaves to restore the bulb. Cut only those plants that have at least 5-7 buds. They already have a large bulb that can withstand this operation. If the lily has only one or two buds, it is still better not to touch it.
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I never trim my lilies after flowering, but my mother said that it is necessary to do this. Is it so?
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Lilies are one of the most unpretentious flower plants. Three years can grow in one place, you just need to feed and weed.
During this period, the bulb has time to acquire "babies", and if they are not planted, the flowers grow smaller. In my garden, more than 100 varieties of these plants of different shades grow. Moreover, as practice has shown, the most resistant to cold and unfavorable conditions of growing OT-and LA-hybrids.
When landing on the bottom, you need to pour a layer of sand-5-8, see. As a fertilizer I use Mullein. I grow it in the proportion of 1: 10 and I insist for three days. Then I dilute 1 l with a bucket of water. It is enough to give such fertilizer to plants 2-3 times per season.
Of the pests, the most dangerous is the red lily moth, which is called a “fireman” for its bright color. These insects leave mucous lumps of a blackish-brown color on the underside of the leaves - this is a laying of eggs that must be destroyed immediately so that the larvae do not have time to appear. They are pink in color, similar to the offspring of the Colorado potato beetle, only without spots on the sides and covered with green-brown lumps of mucus. Larvae are very voracious - they can completely destroy the leaves of plants.
I fight these pests with the same insecticides that are used against the Colorado potato beetle, such as Acte-liquor, Decis, Aktara, and Karate. The same drugs help and from a spider mite, which also badly harms the lilies.
Lilies bloom longer if the stamens are severed, until they "dust", preventing the pollen from entering the petals, which it acts on.
Valentina Ivanovna KURULENKO, Mogilev region, Cherikov
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Royal lily from seeds
In autumn, with the lilies collect the boxes, when they begin to crack. Caps dry all winter in gauze pouches. In February-March, the seeds are taken from the boxes and planted in prepared land for seedlings. Seedlings are exposed to the sunny window sill, and when the leaves appear, plant flowers from each other on 5, see.
A box of lilies is taken to the garden in late May, where the plants spend the whole summer. The box itself is buried in the ground.
In autumn, as soon as the ground begins to freeze, the box is covered with a thick layer of leaves -20 cm. And only the next spring, after removing the leaves, lilies are transplanted to a permanent place at a distance of 20 cm from each other.
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tell me please how to store the Dutch lily in Siberia?