Cannes flowers - growing, storage, care and varieties
Contents ✓
- ✓ Canna x generahs information from the encyclopedia of flowers
- ✓ REPRODUCTION BY DIVISION
- ✓ CANNING SITTING
- ✓ CARE OF CANNES
- ✓ Diseases and Harmfulness of CANNES
- ✓ CAPACITY REMOVAL AND STORAGE
- ✓ USE OF CANNES IN GREENHOUSE AND GARDEN DESIGN
- ✓ Popular and beautifully flowering varieties of cannes
- ✓ GROWING CANNES - LANDING AND CARE. FLOWER TIPS
- ✓ CANNES IN OPEN GROUND - LANDING AND CARE. VIDEO
Cannes - flowers in the country before the frost - reproduction, cultivation, storage and popular varieties
Canna x generahs information from the encyclopedia of flowers
Description of the flower.
Rhizome perennial, in height reaches 150 cm, very beautiful even without flowers. The leaves are rich-green, leathery, broadly lanceolate, in varietal plants can be with strips of red and brown. Flowers also depending on the variety are of different size and color (yellow, red, orange), can reach 20 cm in diameter, collected in a racemose inflorescence. They blossom in June (if planted in the ground undergrowth specimens) or bloom from mid-summer to the most frosts.
Agrotechnics.
Kanna is not a simple plant. It reaches maximum decorativeness in very well-lit areas protected from the wind. 11soil prefers fertile, deeply processed, friable. You do not winter in the midland of Russia, so they dig it in the fall. They are stored in a cool room, and in February they are grown to speed up the onset of flowering. Culture is planted in open ground only after the threat of frost has passed, in early June.
Breeding.
Fission of rhizomes.
Using.
Bright exotic canna - decoration of flower beds. She is good at group and single landing. Low varieties are even grown in containers - in this case, you can extend flowering until November by bringing the plant into the house.
Cannes - one of the few flower plants that are decorative until the frost. Due to its massiveness, these flowers used for landscaping near fences, in alleys and around ponds.
Canna is a perennial herb with straight stems from 50 cm to 2,5 m high and fleshy tuberous rhizomes. The leaves are large, powerful, elliptical or oval in shape. There are green, bluish, burgundy, with different shades, with or without a rim, reach a length of 10 to 30 cm and a width of 25 to 80 cm. Flowers in cannes from white and cream to yellow, orange, red and pink, various shades, there are a border, odorless.
Species cannons have small flowers and powerful leaves. Depending on the growing conditions, they differ in terms of flowering: the early ones bloom two weeks or even a month earlier. Cannes bloom from the second half of June to frost.
In landscaping, varieties are used called - canna hybrid (Canna hybrida), obtained as a result of selection work with the best natural species.
REPRODUCTION BY DIVISION
The main method of cannabis propagation is the division of rhizomes, which is carried out in March-April. Having cleared the plants of the earth, dried and rotted parts, they are divided by the number of tuber buds. If the buds are located close to each other, it is better to leave both, so the plant will be more powerful. Sections should be treated with a solution of potassium permanganate (0,2 g per 1 liter of water). If this is not possible, it is necessary to wipe them with wood ash to avoid infection with fungal infections. This not only disinfects plants, but also strengthens their viability.
Some delenki can be kept in sawdust, while others can be grown in containers (pots, drawers), so they will begin to bloom earlier. The following earth mixture is used for planting: peat, chernozem and sand in a ratio of 1: 1: 1. Delenki should be planted shallowly, but completely covered with soil from above. Better yet, lay the tuber bud horizontally for root formation. The optimum growing temperature is + 20-24 ° C.
When the delenka sprouts and 1-2 leaves appear, the cannes are maintained at a temperature of +16 ° C in sufficient light. Otherwise, the plants will stretch. For better rooting of delenok it is necessary to carry out health irrigation once every 10 days using a solution of potassium permanganate (2 g of manganese per 10 l of water). If yellowed leaves appear, and this is a sign of fungal diseases, then the concentration is increased. Settled cannes are planted in open ground after spring frosts. You can plant and sprouted rhizomes.
CANNING SITTING
The main requirement for growing cannes is a sunny area, protected from the wind, and regular plentiful watering. Landing is carried out in deeply cultivated, fertilized soil (4-5 kg per 1 m2 of humus). Cannes are planted according to the scheme 40 × 40 cm, 40 × 60 cm or 70 × 70 cm, depending on the type and variety. On household plots in flower beds you can make a denser planting - according to the scheme 30 × 30 cm. Depth of the planting fossa is 20-22 cm. If the plant has sprouted and it is planted from the container, the planting depth will be 10-15 cm, if not germinated, then by 5 -7 cm
CARE OF CANNES
From the moment of planting, the cannes require abundant watering, regular weeding and loosening. Periodically, it is necessary to feed 40-50 g of the mixture with mineral fertilizers (12-15 g of nitrogen, 20-25 g of phosphorus and 8-10 g of potassium) per 1 m2. If the fertilizers are in granules, they are carefully scattered around the plants on the abundantly poured earth and immediately loosened. So they need to be fed 2-3 times during the summer. An inflorescence at the canna is a brush that begins to bloom from the lower flower, then gradually rises in an upward arrow above the bush. Then, over time, the following “torches” grow, which also bloom. In order not to lose the decorativeness of plants, from time to time you need to remove dry flowers.
Diseases and Harmfulness of CANNES
Cannes is practically not affected by pests and only occasionally can be subjected to bacterial diseases, which are accompanied by blackening and death of buds, as well as the appearance of white and then black stains on the leaves.
Bacteriosis develops in conditions of excess moisture, and they are incurable: the affected plants can only be discarded. Leaves sometimes damage butterfly caterpillars. In this case, insecticides should be used. From the root nematode, the earth around the plants must be treated with special preparations.
CAPACITY REMOVAL AND STORAGE
Digging out the canoes in late October, in dry weather. High bushes undermine from all sides and gently shaken, so that the earthen cloud does not decay strongly, otherwise the rhizomes may dry up if the rhizome is preserved. The leaves and stems are cut to heights; 20-22 see
If you need to know the name of the variety, you need to mark it on the label, put the plants in a row in boxes and put them in the storage, where the stems are tied up in 1-2 weeks. Cannes tolerate transplanting well and those varieties that remained with blooming inflorescences can be planted in containers or pots, and they will also please with long flowering in the room. These plants can be stored until spring, and then - divided and planted.
Correctly chosen room for storing canes is important not only for the preservation of the rhizome, but also for the productivity of flowering in the future. The plants are stored at a temperature of + 8-12 C in dry cellars, cool rooms and grooves in the garden. In the latter case, unseparated rhizomes are laid in grooves and sprinkled with earth. In this state, the green mass will gradually fade. In this case, the part that is in the ground, naturally does not dry up. In this state, plants need to be maintained until spring.
USE OF CANNES IN GREENHOUSE AND GARDEN DESIGN
Cannes look decorative in large group landings, especially against the backdrop of lawns. They are also planted along malls or around the pool. On the beds they are placed in the middle. In this case, it is advisable to plant the cannes together with annuals. You can plant them with marigolds, cineraria, stunted dahlias “Funny Guys”, etc. When landscaping large areas, massive cannons of different varieties are planted, which are selected according to the height of the bush, the color of the inflorescence, and especially the color of the leaves. For internal gardening, these flowers are used as potted and tubular plants. Cannes are also good in summer on balconies and terraces.
Popular and beautifully flowering varieties of cannes
Yellow Humbert
Inflorescences yellow with bright red dots inside. Flower size: length 9 cm, width 7 see Height of plant 120-130 see Leaves green.
Louis Kayeux
Inflorescence pink with yellow border. The size of the flower is 12 cm in length, 12 width, see 120-130 plant height, see Leaves are dark green.
Lucifer (Lucifer)
Inflorescences red with yellow border. Flower size: length 10 cm, width 9 see Height of plant 80-90 see Leaves green.
Rosenkransen
Inflorescences are orange with a yellow border. Flower size: length 13 cm, width 13 see Height of plant 120-130 see Leaves green.
Canna Discolor (Sanadiscolor)
Inflorescence is red. Flower size: length 5 cm, width 3 see Height of plant 100-110 see Leaves cherry-burgundy. Bloom from the second half of June until the frost.
Lucica
Inflorescences yellow with bright red dots. Flower size: length 8 cm, width 8 see Height of plant 60-70 see Leaves green.
Feuer Vogel
Inflorescence is orange-red. Flower size: length 12 cm, width 12 see Height of plant 130-140 see Green leaves with a red border.
Nadezhda
Inflorescence pink. Flower size: length 10 cm, width 9 cm. Wound height 60-70, see Leaves are dark green.
Maestro (Maestro)
Inflorescence bright-crimson-pink with a slightly yellow border. Flower size: length 10 cm, width 9 see Height of plant 100-110 see Leaves are gray-green.
Crimean gem
Inflorescences yellow with crimson dots. Flower size: length 8 cm, width 8 see Height of plant 110-120 see Leaves green.
Suievia (Suieviia)
Inflorescences yellow. Flower size: length 11 cm, width 9 see Height of plant 130-150 see Emerald green leaves.
Livadia
Raspberry inflorescence Flower size: length11cm, width 11 see Height of plant 120-130 see Leaves green.
Gift of Crimea
Inflorescence is dark-crimson-pink. Flower size: length 12 cm, width 10 see Height of plant 110-120 see Leaves green.
Chisinau (Chichinaw)
Inflorescences are red with yellow tinge. Flower size: length 10 cm, width 10 cm. Height of the plant 120-130, see Leaves are green.
Firebird
Inflorescences are orange. Flower size: length 16 cm, width 9 see Height of plant 110-120 see Leaves dark purple.
To the note: budim canna
Would you like to settle in your own luxurious beauty Indian canna (Sanna indica), which from June to September will delight you with marvelous bright flowers (depending on the variety there are white, yellow, orange and red colors)? Since the end of April, it's time to plant the plant for germination!
To do this, take a large pot and on 2 / 3 1 fill it with a fresh substrate. 2 Lay the rhizome with a growth bud and upwards and completely cover with earth. 3 Pour well and place on a sunny place.
On warm days, keep the pot with the "pet" on the terrace, and bring it into the room when it gets cold. Before the first shoots appear, water the canna sparingly, later the amount of water should be increased.
On the terrace or balcony, provide a thermophilic exotic with a sheltered from the wind, completely open to the sun. Tip: for crop culture, choose plants of low-growing unit vectors, for example, 'Lucifer' with a height of no more than 50 cm.
GROWING CANNES - LANDING AND CARE. FLOWER TIPS
CANNA: EXOTIC ON SITE
In late May and early June, after the threat of return frosts has disappeared, I cannabis tubers, purchased at a garden store, are planted in open ground. For undersized varieties (with shoots up to 90 cm high) I choose open sunny areas. For tall - well-lit, but protected from the winds places, so that strong gusts do not break the stems. Later, I also install supports for them.
I carry out the first feeding two weeks after planting: I seal 10 g of potash, 25 g of phosphorus and 10 g of nitrogen fertilizer in moist soil. In the middle of summer I water with a solution of nitroammofoski (1 tablespoon / 10 l of water). The last time I bring in minerals in August is 1 tsp. monophosphate per 10 liters of water.
RULES OF LANDING
I dig holes with a depth of about 60 cm, pour humus on the bottom with a layer of 20 cm, on top - the same layer of earth. I plant the undersized cannes according to the pattern of 40 × 40 or 40 × 60 cm, and the tall ones - 70 × 70 cm. I lower the sprouted tubers to a depth of 10-15 cm, non-sprouted tubers no deeper than 9 cm.
CARE FEATURES
From the moment of planting, the canna needs regular weeding, moderate watering and loosening. The first month every 10 days I water the plants with a solution of potassium permanganate (2 g / 10 l of water).
DISEASES AND PESTS OF CANNES
If the cannes attacked the caterpillars, slugs, spider mites or snails, then I use any insecticide (according to the instructions).
Due to excess moisture, cannes can infect bacteriosis, rust or gray rot. It is necessary to pick and burn damaged buds and leaves, and then treat the bushes with a solution of potassium permanganate (4 g / 10 l of water), Fitosporin or Skor (according to instructions).
© Author: Oksana ZAYARNYUK
GROWING CANNES AND PREPARING THEM FOR WINTER
Looking at a blooming canna, you don't know what to be more surprised at: unusual flowers or rich color of leaves - green, blue, almost black, purple, bronze and even striped!
It is a pity that you rarely see cannu in gardens, and this flower looks very beautiful in large groups, single planting, tubs.
SECRETS OF GROWING
I choose a bright, sunny place for landing, protected from cold winds.
I carefully prepare the soil, making it nutritious and loose. I add compost, humus - in equal shares.
I plant in May to a depth of 5-10 cm (depending on the variety). I leave at least half a meter between the divisions.
At first, I hud up the bushes high - I know from experience that in the future this protects the root collars from decay during winter storage.
I feed the cannes with a special flower fertilizer - once every 10 days.
BEFORE WINTER
At the end of September, I dig out the cannes together with a lump of earth, put them in boxes and send them for storage in the basement. There, in diffused light and sufficient moisture, the rhizomes ripen.
For the formation of flower buds for flowering in the next season, cannes must be in "hibernation" for at least six months. And I also noticed - if you break the earthen lump, the rhizomes can dry out. I begin to moisturize them only in the second half of March.
© Author: Natalia KARKACHEVA, Art. Taman of the Krasnodar Territory. Photo by Valentina BONDAR
CANNA-ONE-YEAR
In the summer, I collected the seeds of beautiful cannes from friends. Will they be viable or will it be more reliable to sow purchased ones? And won't you have to wait for years to bloom?
Irina Shishova
- Seeds collected with their own hands are no less viable than purchased ones. Cannes set fruits well, and in the middle lane they have time to ripen. Usually sown in February.
Sowing Rules
The seeds must first be soaked for a day in a light solution of potassium permanganate.
You can sow in light peaty soil (peat and sand - 2: 1), garden soil with the addition of sand, peat and compost (2: 1: 1: 1). Purchased seedling soil is also suitable.
When sowing, deepen the seed by 5-7 mm. Water gently without eroding the soil and cover with a bag or lid.
For germination, cannes need a temperature of at least +22 degrees. Seedlings appear in 3-4 weeks. When the seedlings have 4 leaves, they need to be planted and kept in the brightest place at a temperature of + 16-20 degrees. Feed with fertilizer of the Effect type once a week (according to the instructions).
In mid-late May, plants can be planted in open ground, shading in the first days. With good care - watering and feeding - most one-year-old cannes will delight with flowering in the same year. Twice (at intervals of a week) feed with a urea solution (30 g / 10 l of water). From mid-late June (once every two weeks), sprinkle the fertilizer "Kemira-
Universal spring-summer "(40 g per bush) and mulch with a peat mixture. It will be useful to water with a solution of potassium permanganate of medium brightness for the prevention of rust and as an additional replenishment of potassium and manganese. At the end of August, I recommend adding "Kemira-Universal Autumn" (in the same dose), then the nodules will ripen and remain in winter.
CANNA TROPICANA: PREPARATION FOR WINTER
A native of the tropics for many years pleases with decorative foliage and long flowering. It is able to take root in any corner of the garden - against the backdrop of a lawn or hedge, a flowering island by the pond, become a bright highlight of the flower bed. But behind the beauty there are troubles. Kanna ns hibernates in open ground. Every year you have to dig it out.
GARDEN CONDITIONS FOR CANNES
I plant the plant in a flower garden when the threat of return frosts has passed and the soil warms up above +10 degrees.
I choose a sunny place without drafts.
I am preparing “warm” holes with a depth of 50 cm. At the bottom I lay half-ripened manure with a layer of at least 20 cm, which I cover from above with the same layer of soil. I plant a plant on this “pillow” and sprinkle it with a substrate of equal parts of leafy soil, peat, humus and coarse sand or expanded clay.
I deepen the tubers by 6-8 cm at a distance of about 50 cm.
With such a planting, the canna does not need additional nutrition, but otherwise it needs to be “feeded” 2-3 times per season: in spring with complex fertilizers, and in the second half of summer with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
On hot, dry days, canna requires regular abundant moisture.
PREPARATION OF CANNA FOR WINTER
In early autumn, I plant the plant high, and reduce watering.
After the first frost, I cut the stems at a height of 20 cm, and gently dig the tubers with a clod of earth. If they are wet, I dry them for a couple of days.
Then I put it in boxes for winter storage, during which the tubers ripen. Optimal conditions: a room with a constant temperature of +6-10 (but not higher than +15) degrees, and without changes in humidity. If the earthen ball crumbled, I sprinkle the tubers with a peat mixture with sawdust to maintain stable humidity.
With a small amount, planting material will easily survive the winter in the fruit drawer of the refrigerator. Only pre-tubers need to be washed and wrapped in paper.
During storage, I periodically inspect the tubers, removing damaged parts.
© Author: Tatyana POLITOVA, p. Bogoroditskoe, Oryol region Photo by Tatiana Sanchuk and Valentina BONDAR
COMFORT FOR CANNES
Dacha purchased recently. For a couple of years meadow grass and hazel grew on the site. L last season wanted to restore beauty.
I set up 3 round flower beds and started buying different plants. I planted them by adding ready-made store soil for garden flowers to the planting holes. During the season, I watered the plants as needed, fed several times with complex mineral fertilizer. Some seedlings soon withered. But the cannes surprised.
At the end of spring, I bought tubers with small sprouts at a low price. I planted them in a flower bed only a week later. I dug holes, poured gravel on the bottom, and a small layer of soil on top. Lowered the tubers and sprinkled them with earth.
With each visit to the dacha, I watched how the cannes rapidly gain green mass, releasing huge glossy leaves. By the end of summer, they reached 1,5 m in height and gave arrows with bright red flowers. But we did not admire such beauty for long. The first frosts killed the plants. Leaves and flowers turned black.
I was even more upset that I did not take into account the future size of these large-sized ones. They did not give the neighbors in the flower bed the opportunity to develop well. Cannes filled the entire space, creating a shadow for others.
After the frosts, I dug up the rhizomes, dried them and put them in the refrigerator for storage, after wrapping them in a newspaper.
Next year I plan to pick up a semi-shady, wind-protected place for tall beauties where they will not interfere with other plants. I will also make supports for them.
© Author: Tatiana ZAKHARIEVA
Experts comments
In order to admire the blooming cannes to your heart's content, you need to know a few secrets of their cultivation.
- At the end of March, healthy rhizomes are taken out for germination. When the sprouts reach 8-10 cm, they are planted in containers filled with leaf or garden soil and humus (1: 2). Before "moving" to the garden, the plants are provided with a temperature of + 16-18 degrees.
- When planting in a hole 60 cm deep and 30 cm in diameter, rotted manure is introduced with a layer of 30 cm. The rest of the pit is filled with a mixture of earth and humus (in equal parts), and on top with fine sand. The rhizome is deepened by 5-6 cm and sprinkled with soil. The distance between plants, depending on the variety, is 30-90 cm.
- In the summer, they are fed three times with a complete mineral fertilizer. Moisturize as needed, and then loosen the soil. At the end of the season, watering is reduced, and by the time of digging, they stop.
- Faded inflorescences are cut off, dried flowers are removed in time. As for the neighbors in the flower bed, islands of different varieties of cannes look best on the lawn, at the entrance to the house, along the fence or walls of buildings.
© Author: Lyudmila ULEYSKAYA, Cand. Biol. Sciences, Yalta
LANDING COURSE CANNES
The end of winter and the beginning of spring is the time to germinate many rhizomatous, tuberous and bulbous plants. Our regular authors are happy to share their experience in this matter.
CARNIVAL OF BEGONIA AND CANNES
One of the most favorite plants with which I decorate the garden in the summer are cannes and tuberous begonias. I dig up their rhizomes and tubers in autumn and store them in a non-freezing basement in a box with dry sand. At the end of February-March I take out planting material for germination.
SECRETS OF GORGEOUS CANNES
In order for cannes to bloom faster and more magnificently, I use some tricks.
In early spring, I cut the rhizome, leaving several buds on each part (necessarily one large one). I powder the slices with ash and dry them. I put the delenki in a container with sand. The largest kidney should be horizontal. I sprinkle it with sand and regularly spray it with warm water. I keep the container in a warm room (it is possible - on batteries), then the rhizomes germinate faster. When leaves appear on the plants, I plant the delenki in pots with loose soil and put them in a bright and cool (not higher than + 16 degrees) place. Thus, before landing on the flower bed (at the end of spring), the cannes bushes are already well formed.
Sometimes I use another method - landing with "heating". In May, I dig a deep hole (0 m) and lay a layer (at least 5 cm) of fresh manure on the bottom. I pour loose soil on top and plant the rhizome to a depth of no more than 20 cm. The manure litter “warms” it, stimulating good development and abundant flowering, which begins after 10-1 months and lasts from the end of June until frost.
© Author: Maria IZOTOVA-FROLOVA, Belgorod
BEAUTY CANNA
When I became interested in floriculture at the dacha, I discovered many new plants. I had never grown canna before, although I knew that many flower growers love it.
I first planted a canna several years ago, having bought a small bush in the market in the spring. Now every summer my dacha is decorated with several of these graceful plants.
Cannes grow powerful, more than 1 m high. The plant has large broad oval leaves about 50 cm long and more than 10 cm wide. Canna is especially good during flowering, which lasts from July until frost. And it blooms 1,5-2 months after planting. Large (12-15 cm in diameter) flowers appear on a thick unbranched stem, collected in apical racemose inflorescences.
In late September - early October (before the onset of prolonged frosts), I cut the stems at a height of 8-10 cm from the soil surface and dig up plants with a large clod of earth with a shovel. I carefully shake it off and at the same time make sure that the earthen ball does not fall apart, otherwise the rhizomes will dry out and die. Until spring, I keep them in the cellar in the country.
In mid-April, I free the bushes from the ground (shaking off) and proceed to division. First, I divide the rhizomes into parts according to the number of freely detachable processes. At the same time, I shorten the young roots (this contributes to better germination of rhizomes), and remove the old and dead ones. I plant in a container with moist soil and take it to the greenhouse for germination. When the sprouts reach 8-10 cm, I separate them with part of the rhizome and plant them one by one in the greenhouse.
I plant in open ground in early June, when warm weather sets in. I choose a sunny place, protected from cold winds. I first dig the soil well with the introduction of compost. Since the plants grow powerful, when planting, I leave the distance between them at least 0,5 m. the soil is heavy, thus protecting the rhizomes from decay.
During the season, I feed cannes a couple of times with a solution of ammonium nitrate (20 g per bucket of water). At the end of summer, I reduce watering, stopping them completely by the time of digging.
Canna is a great decoration for one of the corners of my site. She always grows in the background of the flower garden, so as not to cover other plants, and she herself appears in all her glory.
© Author: Galina Pavlova, amateur florist Photo by Lyudmila Mogilevich
CANNES IN OPEN GROUND - LANDING AND CARE. VIDEO
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
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Cannes is moving
In the first month of autumn, I prepare my cannas for the “move” from the garden to the basement.
I dig up the plants and transplant them into large containers. In two
Weeks I cut off the leaves and move the plants to the basement. To prevent the rhizomes from drying out, I pour a glass of water into containers once every two weeks. Cannas will not begin to grow until April.
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Cannes for landing
I plant my favorite cannes in open ground, usually in late May or early June, after the threat of return frosts has disappeared. For flowers, I choose a place protected from the wind and well lit by the sun. I dig holes about 60 cm deep, put manure on the bottom with a layer of 20 cm, and on top - the same layer of earth. The distance between the holes is at least 50 cm. Sprouted roots are planted to a depth of 10-15 cm, unsprouted - 5-7 cm.
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A neighbor in the fall gave a large canna rhizome in a pot. Kept it in the basement. When to deliver? And what to do with it next?
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“I'm taking cannes out of the cellar in February. I leave for a couple of days in a warm, bright room (+ 16-18 degrees). Then I take out the rhizomes and clean them from the ground. I remove old, dry ones. I disassemble the large ones into divisions according to the number of freely separating processes. Each should have one strong bud of renewal, or two or three not very well developed.
If the rhizome is poorly preserved, I divide it into large parts, and only when young shoots appear - into smaller ones. I sprinkle the slices with crushed charcoal, burn them with brilliant green and dry them.
I put the delenki in a box filled with soil mixture from earth, peat, sand or sawdust (2: 1: 0,5) and water it abundantly with a 0,05% solution of potassium permanganate. I put the box in a warm (+25 degrees) place. After 7-10 days, buds develop and shoots appear. Then I transplant the shoots with shoots into pots with a substrate of sand, soddy soil and peat (0,5: 1: 1).
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I read a selection of letters about cannes. Unfortunately, nothing is said there that cannes grow well on water. Yes, these flowers used to grow only in flower beds, and then we read that they can decorate reservoirs, and sent them from land to some water.
What can I say? They feel great in the water if the depth is small - 10-20 cm. As soon as the heat is finally established in late spring, we put pots with cannes in our country pool. They bloom until late autumn, only with the onset of frost we take them out and take them to the greenhouse, and then put them in containers with water. And they bloom beautifully all winter and even form new shoots. True, we help them with this - we maintain the temperature at least 15 degrees and artificial lighting.
If you don’t have a greenhouse, wipe the rhizomes out of the water, dry them a little and bury them in peat or sand.
Carry out the division of plants in the spring, in April. Consider one subtlety: cannes love fertile soil. To prevent it from eroding, make a clay “castle” on the surface of the soil in a pot. And if you have a fish in your pond, sprinkle pebbles on top of the clay.
One more. When placing cannes in places accessible to the wind, secure the pots in some way so that the wind does not knock them over.
And the last tip. The best combination, as we have seen, cannes and nymphs - the beauty is such that at least every day you see, but takes for the soul.
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I have a plot in a wasteland, the earth here is clay, and when it is very hot, it becomes like a stone. In the first year, almost all the flowers withered, but the cannes survived! Yes, so tall, with bright scarlet flowers! I have been growing these flowers for the fifth year on the site and noticed that they, like cotton, love the hot sun and water, they literally drink their roots. Last year I tried using them as an aquatic plant.
And it worked! Try it too. In late spring or early summer, when there will definitely be no more frosts, install cannes in pots in the supply directly in the open air. They can be placed in a shallow country pond or groove. So that the earth in the pot does not erode, put a small layer of clay on top, and you can additionally pour a layer of pebbles or gravel. You can install containers with cannes in any part of the reservoir, if it is a deep place, then you need to prepare a stand for the flower. The water should just cover the pot. And so that the flower does not accidentally tip over in strong winds, secure the pot properly - for example, it can be propped up with large stones.
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Cannes are planted in the ground with the onset of heat, in May-June, when the soil warms up. But beforehand (in March-April), it would be good to grow a flower at home so that the rhizome sprouts. Planting depth in open ground is 25 - 30 cm. Put humus mixed with sand or excavated soil at the bottom of the hole. Plant sprouted rhizomes in the hole and water abundantly at first. Cannes are dug after the first autumn frosts (September-October). They can, without pruning, be transplanted into a pot and transferred home. Cannes will bloom until December. But usually, cannes are stored in the cellar in winter or wrapped in newspaper in the refrigerator, storage temperature + 6-8 ° C. Cut the stem to a height of 20-25 cm beforehand. Rhizomes with an earthy clod and a stem cut to a height of 10-15 cm can also be transplanted pots and store in bright rooms at a temperature of 12-15 ° C, watering moderately. Throughout the winter, the buds will grow slowly and mature well.
Garden cannes are divided into two groups. Varieties with green leaves: Golden Bird (yellow flowers with white edging), Liberation (golden-orange flowers). Moonlight (flowers are white with a yellowish tinge). Varieties with brown leaves: Fire Wizard (dark red flowers), King Humbert (red flowers).
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I have lived all my life in Chelyabinsk and I remember how many years ago these bright red flowers with leaves in the form of an ellipse adorned all the central flower beds of the city. And then for some reason they forgot about them.
Yes, they forgot so much that now cannes are perceived as some kind of exotics. But the plant is unpretentious, it is a pity, however, that it does not hibernate in the open field, in the fall, like dahlias, cannes rhizomes need to be dug up. This flower prefers fertile and loose soil, but there is one secret - it has such strong and strong roots that they can break even heavy loamy soils.
Therefore, I go for such a trick - I plant cannes where it is necessary to improve the land with their roots, they work like a good chopper. After a year or two, the earth in this place becomes loose and light, and I transplant the cannes to the next clay area - let them work there! Cannes are not afraid of the sun, but they need feeding and watering, cannes are large water lilies. Fertilizing with organic fertilizers (rotted manure or compost) will respond with abundant flowering.
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Having dug up the rhizomes of the cannes in the fall, I plant several pieces in flower pots and put them on the windowsill - so they delight me with the greenery of their aboveground part all winter. And they bloom in mid-March.
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I grow my favorite cannes in nutritious soil - a mixture of peat, black soil and forest land (2: 3: 2). The plant prefers open, sunny areas, regular but moderate watering. I feed the bushes during the growing season with complex fertilizers for garden tuberous plants (but instructions).
In August, the rhizomes of overgrown cannes can be divided for further reproduction. At the same time, I make sure that on each division there is one powerful kidney or 2-3 small ones. I dry the rhizome fragments, sprinkle the cuts with crushed coal and leave them for storage in the basement.
In early spring, I transfer the planting material to a warm room, periodically spray it with water at room temperature. To make the canna germinate faster, I sprinkle the rhizomes with a layer of sand. At the beginning of April, I plant it in cut off 5-liter bottles (you can go to the greenhouse, thoroughly sprinkling the rhizomes with earth). When the threat of frost has passed, I move the cannes outside in large containers. Already in June, they begin to grow buds. And how they bloom - do not take your eyes off!
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In order for the cannes to retain their decorative effect in the garden longer and to build up the underground part better, it is advisable to spud their "legs" with the onset of autumn cold weather. Root tubers are dug out after the first freeze with a clod of earth, only shaking off its excess a little (in September-October - for the middle lane, in November - in the southern regions). So they winter better. The stems are cut to a height of 12-15 cm. The planting material is slightly dried and, covered with dry sand or sawdust with a layer of 15-20 cm, is stored at a temperature of + 4-5 degrees.
Lyudmila ULEYSKAYA, Cand. Biol. Sciences, Yalta
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CANNA - A NOBLE FLOWER
The homeland of this beauty is the tropics and subtropics of America, Asia, Africa, where she grows along the banks of rivers and streams. But in Russia, she also took root and delights florists with her fiery red flower petals, wide leaves and a powerful stem, and it can be grown not only in the southern region, but also in the temperate latitudes of Russia.
Before planting it is better to germinate in a container with earth on the windowsill, but away from the heating battery. When a sprout appears, and the weather is warm outside, you can plant a canna in a flower garden or pot, if you decide to create a mobile flower garden and move it to the place you need. This is especially true in the middle lane. After all, with return frosts, the pot can easily be removed to a room or a greenhouse, as well as put in a place where there is no wind.
In the southern region, it can immediately be planted in a permanent place in a flower bed. If planted in a container, then you need to water more often, pick up a semi-shady place, otherwise the roots will dry out and the plant will be uncomfortable.
In the south (in the subtropical zone), the canna can be left to hibernate in the ground, slightly covering the roots with dry leaves, humus.
But to leave the canna in the ground in the middle lane means to doom it to death. Therefore, when the plants have bloomed, the inflorescences should be cut, and in the middle of September - October, the stem should also be cut, leaving a stump 5 cm high.
If you grow a canna in the middle lane, then in the winter after the first frost it should be dug up, shaken the ground and placed in a box or other container, sprinkled with peat, humus and sent to the cellar or to the cool pantry.
Regularly need to inspect the roots, moisten a little so that they do not dry out. In the spring, again put the roots in a pallet on a light windowsill for germination, then plant them in the country. And you will again admire this noble flower, the main decoration of your garden.
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Please advise whether it is possible to store cannes tubers in the refrigerator.
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Usually suitable for this compartment for vegetables and fruits. Tubers are dug, washed from the ground, carried out disinfection treatment with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
I want to note that before putting them in storage they need to be allowed to dry for a day in a warm room, after which they are wrapped in a damp newspaper, put in a plastic container and sent to the refrigerator, from where it is removed only with the arrival of spring.
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I have a lot of cannes. During flowering, the family is jokingly called the site "Cannes festival". Sprouted plants from the middle of May planted in the open ground in the warmed soil.
Drainage is mandatory. Landing pits are filled with a mixture of leaf land, sand, peat and humus (all in roughly equal parts). The depth of planting tubers - up to 9 cm, the distance between rows and plants - according to 50, see.
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After digging up the rhizomes of the canvas, I replicate several pieces in pots and take them home. All winter, the green oasis on my windowsill pleases the eye, and in mid-March, the cannes blossom.
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Canna hybrid (Canna x hybrida)
Description. Under this name "go" all varieties of complex hybrid origin. Now we know about 1000 varieties, which differ in height, color of leaves and flowers, as well as flowering time. Some of them are conventionally divided into 2 groups: Crozie - with gray leaves, Humboldt - varieties with orange flowers and red-brown leaves. All cannes are extremely beautiful, fairly large flowers that bloom from mid-summer to autumn; and if you plant plants in February in a closed ground for growth, then flowering will begin even earlier.
Agrotechnics. Cannes - the plants are thermophilic, so they need well-lit, protected from the wind areas. To make the plants bloom even more effectively, they make a special manure bed during the planting - in a pit about 70 cm deep, lay 20 cm of manure and top it with soil. Lashing, the manure will give off heat and warm up the landing site. Cannes does not hibernate in the middle of Russia and requires an annual excavation.
Reproduction. It reproduces by the division of rhizomes. Using. Kanna - exotic flower garden decoration. Effectively looks great groups. Low-grown varieties can be used to decorate containers.
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Spectacular cannes always place in the center of the flowerbed. The rhizomes in early spring are planted in pots with nutritious soil. I plant so that they are densely placed in a pot. Plants watered and put in the brightest place. The temperature should not be higher than 1 b °. At a higher temperature, plants can be affected by a spider mite, and if it falls below 10 °, there is a risk of fungus.
When the threat of frost passes, I plant the cannes in open ground - somewhere in early May. I make a hole with a depth of 40-50 cm, put rotten manure into it, then a mixture of earth and humus, carefully transfer the plants into the planting hole, fill it with soil and water it abundantly.
Planted plants at a distance of 60 cm from each other, deepening the roots at 15-20 cm, at such a depth they will not dry up. Cannes needs a humus-rich soil and a sunny place or a light penumbra. For abundant flowering I feed the flowers with organic or mineral fertilizers every 2 weeks. With the first frost I cut off the plants, and then dig up and dry the rhizomes. I keep in the cellar until spring.
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Secrets of growing cannes
I grow cannes on my site for 7 years.
At the end of March and the beginning of April I take out the rhizomes of the canna from the cellar, divide them if necessary, pop it with ashes and plant it in pots. Until the appearance of leaves water moderately.
In the open ground, I plant after the disappearance of the threat of recurrent frosts (late May-early June). Cannes prefer a sunny place with protection from the wind, but I also grow well in the penumbra. If necessary I tie them to pegs.
At the bottom of a deep hole in a layer of 10-15 cm lay spreading manure, fall asleep a layer of earth in 20 cm and lay drainage. I lower the rhizome in a hole and fall asleep with soil from soil of sod, humus and large river sand. With such a landing on the "warm pillow" there is no need to fertilize the flower.
In the absence of rain, I water the canals under the root once every 3-5 days.
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So that the canvas blossomed in the beginning of summer, I begin to "wake up" it in February. First, the rhizomes are divided into 3-5 parts, depending on the number of kidneys. To make the eyes grow, the cut rhizomes are laid in boxes and stored in a warm room, regularly sprinkling water at room temperature. At the end of March I take them to a warm greenhouse, where I lay tightly to each other and sprinkle with earth. On a permanent place in the ground planted in late May.
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She used to live in Kazakhstan. Cannes cultivated the year 3. For the winter, the tubers were separated and some were planted in large outdoor pots in the house, and some kept in the basement. They blossomed, and summer in the country, and in the winter in the room. 3 years ago we moved to Omsk. I bought on the market one onion with a small burgundy sprout. In appearance there was a cannabe and a woman that sold confirmed. I grew it on the site. It seems that canna, a plant of about 150, has grown, but there were no flowers. Tubers hibernated in the house, but did not bloom. In autumn, a part of the planted in the house, and a part of it was lowered into the basement. Can not understand. why it does not blossom. Maybe it's such a variety? Who knows?
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Wintering cannes
Despite its tropical origin, cannes are rather unpretentious. Their only drawback when growing in the middle belt-the plant can not overwinter in the ground, so for the winter they must be excavated.
First of all, I cut off the stems of the canna, leaving only about 20 cm from the root, and then dig it out. Usually, I do this after the first frosts (in the middle zone - in late September - early October). I drizzle rhizomes in the open air, but under a canopy. It is not necessary to clean them from the ground, and even more so to wash. Rhizomes should dry out together with an earthen lump - in this form they will be perfectly preserved until the spring. I store canes in a cellar in wooden boxes, pouring them with a mixture of peat, sawdust and sand (1: 1: 1), at a temperature of + 8 deg. It is important that the moisture content of the substrate does not exceed 60%.
Once a month I check the condition of the rhizomes: if they are dry, I moisten the substrate a little, if wet or even rotten, I cut off the damaged areas to a healthy tissue, and sprinkled with crushed coal or ground cinnamon.
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Cultivation of cannes
I adore these beautiful flowers. I will say more, I collect them in my flower garden.
There are tall, with me growing, there are dwarfish. By the way, dwarf canes grow in me all year round. I excavate them in the fall, transplant them into drawers and put them on the windowsills. The rest I go down for the winter in a dry cool pit.
Seeds do not like to breed cannes. Tried, but new plants or another form acquire, or change the color of flowers. In general, I multiply canals by dividing rhizomes.
I take the rhizomes out of the pit in early May. I divide by the processes. I am very happy when I find fresh buds on the processes. This means that the cannes have perfectly overwintered. The places of the cuts of the appendages are sprinkled for disinfection and strengthening by sifted ash. I spread out the rhizomes of flowers in a greenhouse on a shelf, sprayed with water and covered with nonwoven material for heat. In a week I put the roots of flowers in boxes with sand for germination. When the first leaves appear on the shoots of 3-4, I plant flowers in the ground at a distance of 50 cm from each other. The flower garden is always broken in a well-lit place, because these beautiful plants love the sun very much.
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If possible, share the tuber. I saw flowers for the first time this summer in Sol-Iletsk. Loved it. I want to try propagating by seeds ...
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This culture has been mastered by us for a long time. Undecidedly forgotten, but now interest in it again revives. Nothing complicated in the cultivation of cannon.
Cannes in our winters is not much harder than dahlias. After the first frost, cut off the above-ground part, leaving 15 cm of petioles of leaves, slightly (!) Brush the rhizome from the ground, lightly dry the root lump and cover it with sawdust in a large plastic pot. So you put it in the cellar, on the top shelf.
The main subtlety is not to dry and rot in winter the rhizomes. Remains of soil on them should be evenly moist, so that when you press a paper napkin to them, there were no wet spots on it, but the soil should not feel dry and touch to the touch.
And when in the spring the soil warms up to + 8 ° С, plant them on the street (that is, simultaneously with the planting of potatoes). So wintering is not difficult, but the soil for them and care is a separate story.
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When I see cannes on sale, I always take my breath away: I really want to, but is it worth it to bother, because they are hard to winter? And they’re not cheap ... Although I have a cellar in which dahlias survive the winter well.
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VERY BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS!!!
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At the present time about 1 meter. Will they succeed in fading and gaining strength for the forthcoming bloom in the summer?