Dahlias in the garden - varieties, care, planting and growing

Using these colors to create a colorful flower garden is very simple. Dahlias have a huge number of shapes and colors, bloom for a long time and are absolutely not difficult to care for.

Dahlias are grassy, ​​perennial plants that do not winter in the open ground. The aerial part of them dies every year, and the tuberous roots and the lower part of the lignified stems are preserved. Dahlia tubers come in various shapes: round, oblong, and sharp or tuberous. Stems until the end of the growing season, depending on the variety, reach a height of 20 cm to 2,5 m. Until the end of summer, their lower part becomes wooden. The stems inside are empty, very brittle. The foliage has a different shape and color: from pale green to almost black. Flowers are collected in an inflorescence basket, the diameter of which varies from 3 to 35 cm in different varieties.

Dahlia roots thicken during the growing season, they accumulate nutrients that the plant needs after winter storage for further growth and development.

SELECTION OF PLACE AND LANDING GEORGIN

For heat-loving dahlias, spacious, sunny areas that are protected from cold winds are chosen. These plants will feel great on any soil, but the best flowering is observed in their rich soil. Since root tubers do not like stagnation of water, it is advisable to make good drainage on the site.

The soil for dahlias is prepared in advance, improving its structure. Acidity is reduced by adding lime or ash, sprinkling and mixing them with the ground in the fall or before planting.

If the land is alkaline, it is acidified with peat. To a loam and heavy clay soils, a mixture of sand, peat and sheet humus is added to increase air permeability. In a pit dug at the depth of the spade bayonet, it is desirable to put the manure, some lime and ash and mix it with the ground.

Root dahlias are planted in open ground when the threat of spring frost passes and the land warms up well (in late April - early May). Depth of landing is 8-15 cm.

BASIC CARE FOR GEORGINS

After planting, dahlias begin to develop relatively quickly. Since the plants have a shallow root system, powerful stems with a height of more than 80 cm need a garter to the supports. Low-growing varieties do not need this. Dahlias are watered abundantly, as needed, but not more than twice a week.

During the growing season, you can make complex mineral fertilizers with an interval of 21 to 31 days. This contributes to the rapid growth and development of plants. At the end of August, the last top dressing with a small part of nitrogen fertilizers is carried out. During this period, for the better formation of tubers and their ripening, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are necessary.

In August-September, it is worth removing leaves from the bottom of the bush from the base to 30 cm up the trunk. This provides better access to soil heat, air and moisture. Thus, the root neck is properly ripened and lignified, and dahlias are well stored in the winter. From mid-June, faded inflorescences are regularly removed to preserve the dahlia's decorative effect and prolong their flowering.

METHODS OF BREEDING GEORGIN

Seeds mainly propagated dahlias, which are grown as an annual crop. These are low, curb, dwarf non-double and semi-double varieties with a variety of colors, blooming continuously throughout the summer. Seedlings are planted after spring frosts, after hardening it in greenhouses. Seeds collected from plants from free pollination do not convey the characteristics of the variety.

Division of root tubers - one of the easiest and most common ways. After winter storage, the roots of the root tubers are removed, and large ones are gently loosened with hands and divided into several parts. Before planting, delenki must be disinfected in a strong solution of potassium permanganate or sprinkled with charcoal. If the planting material is very dry and wrinkled, you need to fill it with water for 3-4 hours, and then leave it in wet sawdust until planting.

Cuttings - the fastest way to reproduce. In the third decade of January, root tubers are taken from the storage, viewed and exposed for germination. After the emergence of sprouts with a height of 8-9 cm, they can be cut for rooting. Cuttings are dipped in solutions of growth stimulants - “Heteroauxin” or “Kornevin” and planted in a pre-prepared substrate of vermiculite (perlite) and sand in the ratio (1: 3). It can be planted simply in clean sand. For rooting, a room with a temperature of +22 ° C and humidity of 70-80% is suitable.

After 15-25 days, the plants will have the first nodules. Rooted cuttings are planted in small pots with light, nutritious soil. They are planted in open ground in late May - early June. Plants from such cuttings normally develop and bloom in the same season, slightly inferior in development to dahlias grown from tubers.

DISEASES AND PESTS

The most common disease of dahlias is a viral mosaic of leaves, in which the leaves become deformed and turn yellow. A plant with a virus needs to be dug up and removed from the site. Seedlings "young plants and rooted cuttings can affect the black leg. In this case, dahlias need to be treated with a systemic fungicide.

Of the pests, aphids and spider mites annoy the plants, they are the main carriers of diseases and viruses. To avoid their occurrence, dahlias should be regularly treated with various insecticides.

GEORGIN DIVISION AND LANDING

1. In April-May, large dahlia tubers are shared.
2. They are gently loosened and torn to pieces, if necessary cut with a knife.
3. For dahlias prepare planting pits with a depth of 30 cm and a diameter of 30-45 cm.
4. Disinfected tubers are laid i on the bottom of the pit with their hands upwards.
5. Then abundantly watered and covered with earth, so that the top sprout was at a depth of 5 cm.

GEORGINS IN PLANTING

When using dahlias of different heights, excellent mixborders are obtained. At the same time, tall varieties are planted in the background, and medium-sized and undersized ones are planted in the foreground. With the help of these colors you can create a unique floral composition and arrange a corner of your garden in any color scheme (white flower garden, pink, orange), depending on its style. Dahlias are beautifully combined with perennials - irises, peonies, daylilies - and annuals. In single landings, they look great against the backdrop of the lawn.

REMOVAL AND STORAGE OF GEORGIN ROOT-CLASSES

After the first frosts, dahlias must be excavated, as the leaves and stems immediately turn black. The bush is cut to a height of 10-15 cm from the base, and the tubers are washed and dried in the sun 4-5 h. If the weather is humid on the street, the dahlias are brought into a warm room for 2-3 days. But they can not be left open for a long time, they dry up quickly, lose moisture, wrinkle, and by spring can perish.

For winter storage of tubers, any frost-resistant room with an air temperature of + 3-8 ° C, with good ventilation and humidity of 60-70% is suitable. In an apartment, dahlias can be stored on a glazed balcony. In this case, the root tubers nest must be put in a container and sprinkled with sawdust, sand or peat. It is also possible to store a small number of young tubers in the refrigerator, in paper or in a plastic bag.

During the first two weeks, the plant is aging and hardening. After this, the roots are inspected, removing the small and broken roots. During the winter dahlias need such a check every month. If the nests on the root canals have seriously deteriorated nodules or the root neck, do not rush to throw them out: the remaining living part can sprout a sleeping kidney.

1. Dig a bush around in a circle, trying not to damage the tubers.
2. Carefully shake it and peel the tubers off the ground.
3. Cut the stems to a height of 10-15, see the cut above the lump of the stems.
4. If, during storage, the stems begin to rot, shorten them to 5, see.
5. Wash tubers and dry them 2-3 h in the sun or two days indoors.
6. In this form, dahlias are laid for storage until spring.

FOR THE NOTICE

Dahlias aged 2-3 years need to be divided. This contributes to their rejuvenation and better development. If this is not done, the old tubers will become massive, with many shoots during vegetation and a large green mass. Such plants have small flowers, and they themselves become vulnerable to fungal diseases.

Popular varieties of beautifully-flowering dahlia

Yellow Sunburst Class decorative. Height of the plant 110-130, see Leaves are green. Inflorescence bright yellow, diameter 25-35 see. Recommended for use in single, group plantings and cut.

Gitts Attention Class decorative. Height of the plant 100-120, see Leaves are green. Inflorescences white, with a diameter of 14-18, see Recommended for use in single, group and cutaneous plantings.

Lancpecc (L'Ancresse) Class of spherical. Plant height 80-90 cm. Green leaves. Inflorescences are white, with a diameter of 8-9 cm. It is recommended to use in single, group plantings and on a cut.

Jamaica (Jamaica) Class decorative. Height of the plant 60-70, see Leaves are green. Inflorescences red-white, diameter 8-10 see. Recommended for use in curbs, single, group plantings and cut.

La Vie (LaVie) Transitional class. Plant height 80-90 cm. Green leaves. The inflorescences are cream-raspberry, with a diameter of 12-15 cm. It is recommended to use in single, group plantings and for cutting.

Piglet. The class is spherical. Height of the plant 90-100, see Leaves are green. Inflorescence orange-red, diameter 8-9, see Recommended in single, group plantings and cut.

Wanda's Capella Class decorative. The height of the plant is 120-130 cm. The leaves are green. Inflorescence bright yellow, diameter 20-25 see. Recommended for use in single, group plantings and cut.

Pink diadem A class of nymphs. Height of the plant 120-130, see Leaves are green. Inflorescence bright pink, diameter 17-20 see. Recommended for use in single, group plantings and cut.

Akita (Akita) Class of cactus-shaped. Height of the plant 90-110, see Leaves are green. Inflorescences red-yellow, diameter 20-30 see. Used in single and group plantings.

Aloway Cotazh (Alloway Cottage) Class decorative. Height of the plant 120-130, see Leaves are green. Inflorescences cream-pink, diameter 17-22 see. Recommended for use in single, group plantings and cut.

Figaro (Figaro) Class of transitional. Height of the plant 60-70, see Leaves are green. Inflorescence pink, diameter 12-15 see. Recommended for use in curbs, solitary and group plantings.

Papageno (Papageno) Class decorative. Height of 130-140 see Green leaves. Inflorescences cream-pink, diameter 22-27 see. It is recommended to use in single plantings.

Kenora Valentine (KenoraValentine) Class decorative. Height 110-130, see Leaves are green. Inflorescences are red, 18-25 in diameter. It is recommended to use it in single, group plantings and on a cut.

Growing geogynes on the note:

Do not forget to feed dahlias in the phase of budding with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer, and also tie tall varieties to the supports.

All top-dressing in the second half of August should be stopped, otherwise it will have a bad effect on winter storage of tubers.

To ensure a good maturing of the root collar, in the end of August you can dip dahlias and clean the stems from the lower leaves.

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Dahlia King of the front garden

Dahlias are the flowers of our childhood, youth, youth. We all remember the grandmother's front gardens, full of dahlias, on September 1 with a magnificent bouquet and the first attempts to grow this flower already in its garden. Dahlias, like phloxes, won the hearts of people and became truly folk and beloved flowers in our country.

Dahlias are recognized kings of the autumn garden.

While many plants are already preparing for peace and nature is dying, they are in the lead roles. The gardens seem to come to life in their presence, and together with them we experience this beautiful farewell spectacle of colors.

Selecting a location and landing a dahlia

To achieve success in growing dahlias, to see the full power of plants, the beauty and true size of the inflorescences, one should learn about some of the subtleties of the agricultural techniques of this crop. When choosing a place for planting dahlias, give preference to warm, sunny areas, which are illuminated by the sun at least 6 hours per day. In the penumbra and lack of sunlight, the bushes will look loose, the stems and peduncles will stretch, the flowering will become scarce, and the inflorescence will turn out not so bright and large. Remember, these are plants in hot countries where there is no shortage of heat and sun.

If possible, the site should also be protected from cold and strong winds, which can break the stems and cause irreparable harm to the appearance and health of plants. Do not plant dahlias in low, swampy areas with excessively moist or acidic soil, in this case the plants will develop poorly, wither away, and various diseases can occur. The best soil for planting is oily, fertilized garden loam, rich in humus and nutrients. Well-fertilized sandy soil is also suitable.

Dig the dahlia landing site carefully and then prepare the holes. When planting, if the soil is not fertile enough, add 1/2 bucket of humus or well-rotted manure into the hole, 1-2 tbsp. tablespoons of superphosphate and mix thoroughly. In advance, install a peg-support for the plant in the hole so that after planting it does not damage the tuber itself.

Then gently transfer the tubers with a small lump into the hole so that the root neck remains 2–3 cm below the soil level

Germination of dahlia tubers

For earlier flowering and timely development of the bush, dahlia tubers should be prepared for planting in advance - in March-April (or even earlier, if the conditions of detention allow you). Remove the tubers from the storage and put them in rows in boxes, cover the free space with nutritious soil, peat, sawdust, but no more than half. To avoid decay, the root collar should protrude above the soil surface. Place the boxes in the warmest place - on the windowsill or shelves by the window. If there is a greenhouse or greenhouse, the boxes can be taken out there. Remember to moisturize the substrate periodically. The ideal temperature for germination is + 20… + 25 ° С. To avoid stretching the sprouts when they reach 1-2 cm, transfer the boxes to the brightest and coolest place, cut the polyp.

Shrub formation

Of the variety of dahlia varieties, the most undemanding and easy to care for are undersized curbs. They do not need additional care, they grow well, bloom earlier and bloom friendlier than their counterparts - tall specimens and giant varieties reaching two meters in height. In order to achieve abundant flowering and get larger inflorescences, it is necessary to master the basics of bush formation and the so-called pinching - removal of lateral shoots growing from the axils of the leaves of the main stem.

So, the first stage is the formation of the bush.

It is carried out almost immediately after planting, when the number of main shoots growing from one tuber is clearly visible. They leave two or three of the strongest and strongest shoots, the rest break out. If this is not done, a heavily thickened bush is formed from thin and poorly developed shoots that are unable to "feed" many buds. Abundant flowering and large inflorescences from such a plant can not wait.

Second phase - pasyning.

It must be carried out as early as possible, before buds are formed on the shoots, so you less injure the plant. Remove all lateral shoots (stepsons) to the fourth pair of leaves. And in the side lobes, growing from the fourth pair of leaves, pinch the main growth point. A little later, in the same way, pasynkovanie is carried out in the same way on the lateral shoots. So we will form a beautiful, harmonious bush, which will please us with amicable and early flowering.

Advice of a specialist

When shoots on tubers reach 10-15 cm, it's time to start planting dahlias in the open ground. In our strip this is the first decade of June. It is important that the threat of the last nocturnal frosts is passed.

Digging and storing dahlia

Since dahlias came to us from tropical regions with a hot climate, in the winter of the middle Russia, the tubers must be excavated and stored in a cool room.

FOR THE NOTICE

It is believed that keeping dahlias is a very troublesome and difficult task. Indeed, newcomers often face failure on this path. However, you just need to understand some of the features and nuances, success will not be long in coming and this wonderful culture in all respects will more than thank you for your sincere love and diligence.

In late September - early October, with the threat of severe night frost, on a dry and fine day, dig dahlia tubers and start cooking for wintering. First of all, cut the juicy, fleshy stems, leaving stumps 10 cm high. Then clean the tubers from the ground, dead and rotted parts.

An important stage and guarantee of success is the prevention of rotten and fungal diseases during storage. To do this, pickle the tubers in a strong solution of potassium permanganate. Also suitable are modern fungicides - "Maxim", "Vitaros" - which must be diluted according to the instructions. Dry the tubers after disinfection, leaving them for 2 - 3 hours in the fresh air.

The best place to store tubers is a cool basement, in which the temperature does not drop below 0 ° C. The room should not freeze. Ideal conditions are + 3 ... + 5 ° C, but not higher than + 7 ... + 8 ° C. Put the tubers in one or two rows in the boxes and pour them with a light substrate. Softwood sawdust is best suited, sand can also be used. The substrate must be periodically moistened and the tubers checked for rot and disease. Discard and remove heavily damaged tubers from storage.

Advice of a specialist

What to do if you do not have a basement, and only an apartment and the ardent desire to grow dahlias are available? Do not despair, because even in the conditions of a modern apartment you can save plants until spring. The method is not much different from the storage method in the basement. Put the tubers in a suitable box (for example, under shoes) and sprinkle them with sand. Put the box in the bag and put it in the coolest place in the apartment. Before the onset of severe frosts, this can be an insulated loggia, after - a place near the balcony door, a cool corridor or dressing room.

© Author: Olga MANUDINA

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GEORGINS FUNNY GUYS

Not for the first year I have been growing annual dahlias of the Merry Guys variety. They form lush compact bushes 40-60 cm high, which do not need garters and support. They bloom in the middle of summer and delight with bright simple and semi-double inflorescences up to 10 cm in diameter for quite a long time. They are unpretentious and do not require special attention in the care.

From root tubers

I usually raise the Funny Guys from seeds. But once I tried to propagate root-tubers, like perennial dahlias. To do this, in late autumn, when the aboveground mass of dahlias began to wither (after the first frost), I cut off the stems. Carefully, so as not to damage the tubers, I dug them out with the soil, carefully peeled them. Flushed with water, removed damaged parts.

I held the planting material in a solution of potassium permanganate of medium strength for about 20 minutes. Then I dried it in a cool room so as not to dry out too much, and put it in boxes for storage, sprinkling it with coniferous sawdust, sand (you can use peat). It was stored at a temperature of + 3-5 degrees, and an air humidity of 60-70% in a dark cool place (in the basement, but it is possible on the insulated balcony). Periodically I checked that the root tubers did not dry out, rot or get sick.

In the spring I took out the planting material and examined it. I divided the larger nodules into parts so that each had at least 2 buds, sprinkled the slices with wood ash. I planted them at the end of May immediately in open ground, digging in with earth to the level of sprouts formation. The departure was the same as usual. The dahlias were blooming beautifully.

FOR THE NOTICE

You can germinate the root tubers of annual dahlias in the room at the very beginning of spring in order to get an earlier flowering. My experience has shown that some of the root tubers die during storage. Now I propagate dahlias Cheerful guys with seeds: I sow in April for seedlings, and then transplant them into open ground.

© Author: Svetlana Martynova, Orel.

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