The right care for the lawn. The gas: what is better to sow or lay a roll?
Contents ✓
How to plant a lawn and care for it - methods, procedures and work. Tools for mowing.
Lawn is often sown not by those who are lazy, and does not want to plant vegetables in the vegetable garden, and those to whom the dacha is nicer as a resting place.
But when sowing the lawn and laying its coiled brother, you still have to take care of it. Even if you absolutely “carried out your“ sowing ”, then the“ crop ”will have to be harvested at least once a week.
To the lawn simply grew, you must first prepare the site.
Paying serious attention to this work will save you the trouble in the future.
Firstly, it is necessary to clean and properly fertilize the soil. Then you do not have to incur unnecessary expenses and perform additional work. The creation of the "right" lawn must begin with a thorough preparation of the territory.
1. Preparation of the site for lawn and garbage collection
First, from the site allocated for the lawn, you need to remove the remains of construction debris (stones, crushed stone, glass, pieces of film and expanded polystyrene), as well as roots and stub shoots. On how thoroughly the soil is cleaned, depends not only on how the grass will look, but also on how safe
will care for the lawn (for example, if the stones are left, they can damage the lawn mower knives).
2. Dig up the earth and remove the weeds
In a small area, you can dig the earth with a shovel, in a spacious area - it is better to use a cultivator. Then, using the pitchfork, you need to carefully remove all remaining plants along with the roots and shoots. Even small plant debris should be removed - weeds also grow from them. It is advisable to wait two to three weeks, and if weeds appear, remove them again.
Attention! If laying a lawn is planned in a territory that was not previously cultivated, heavily overgrown with weeds, then weed control can be used to control weeds. Especially - if the area of the site is large.
These drugs affect single and biennial plants, including herbs. Herbicides are absorbed by plants through the leaves. Therefore, the use of herbicides is necessary when the weeds have grown to a height of at least 10 cm. After three to four weeks, when the weeds dry up, you can dig up the earth and remove only the largest fragments of weeds (they will not grow out of the remaining small pieces).
3. Form a territory
The area on which the lawn will be laid should be flat, but not flat. Green hills and hollows will diversify the composition of the garden. Before laying the lawn you need to give the surface the necessary shape.
If significant irregularities are to be eliminated, you need to remove the upper, fertile soil layer and put it nearby in cone-shaped heaps. After that - level the hills, and fill the recesses with soil. First, pour less fertile soil. Then, tamp the bedding using manual or mechanical ramming, and then pour a layer of fertile soil and evenly distribute it.
4. Bring communication
Territory formation work is a good time for wiring, irrigation and drainage systems. Drainage pipes and electrical wiring must be laid at a depth of at least 70 cm (unprotected wire) or 40 cm (laid in PVC pipes), and the irrigation system at a depth of 20-30 cm. If the pipes of the irrigation system are laid in the topsoil, in winter when freezing ground, they can be pushed to the surface. In addition, they are easily damaged during aeration of the turf.
5. Application of fertilizers for the lawn
When preparing the soil for the lawn, it is necessary to check its acidity. The optimum acidity of the soil for lawns is pH 5,5-6,5. Acidity can be measured in various ways. But the most reliable - with the help of a chemical or electronic pH meter, which can be bought in the garden center.
Very acidic soil is easily overgrown with moss, which is subsequently quite difficult to get rid of. Therefore, in case of increased acidity of the soil, liming should be performed. For this purpose, it is worth using dolomite or garden chalk (for light soil - 100 m2: 5-25 kg of dolomite or 10-15 kg of chalk; for heavy - per 100 m2: 25-40 kg of dolomite or 15-22 kg of chalk). Dolomite or chalk is slightly mixed with the soil and left for about two weeks.
So prepared soil can be fertilized with well-decomposed compost sifted through a sieve with small cells (approximately 5 m3 at 100 m2 area); peat substrate or complex fertilizers - fertilizer mixtures (azofoska, ammofoska, nitroammofoska, nitrophoska, magnesium-ammonium phosphate - in the amount of 3-5 kg / 100 m2). To allow plants to use nutrients gradually, chemical fertilizers should be dosed in two doses: first, spread 2-3 kg on 100 m2 and dig a shovel bayonet to the depth (“per bayonet”), and then another 1-2 kg per 100 m2, carefully raking with rakes. In spring, you can also use a slow-action (controlled) fertilizer for lawns, the components of which penetrate the soil gradually over three to six months.
Attention! Liming of the soil can not be performed simultaneously with the application of organic or mineral fertilizers. Between these operations it is necessary to observe a two-week break. Otherwise, the fertilizer components will react chemically with lime, as a result of which part of the components will become inaccessible to the plants.
Attention! Liming of the soil can not be performed simultaneously with the application of organic or mineral fertilizers. Between these operations it is necessary to observe a two-week break. Otherwise, the fertilizer components will react chemically with lime, as a result of which part of the components will become inaccessible to the plants.
Fertilizers can be applied manually, but it is better to use a seeder. A portion of the drug is better divided into two parts. Scatter one, passing along, and the second - across the site. Then the surface will be covered fairly evenly. Fertilizers should be mixed with a small amount of soil.
Improvement of soil quality
The best foundation for the lawn is fertile, easily permeable soil. In too dense, clayey - add sand (a layer of approximately 10 cm) and mix it with the soil to a depth of 20 cm.
In the loose, sandy soil add humus or compost (10 cm) and dig at a depth of 20 cm. If the soil is depleted and infertile, it is best to replace the top layer (15-20 cm) with a fertile fertile soil. At 100 m2 The lawn needs approximately 25-35 t of such soil.
If you can afford to postpone work on laying the lawn, then after preparing the plot designated for the lawn, it is worth sowing green fertilizers (fatseliya, field peas, vetch). Immediately after flowering, they are mowed, crushed and mixed with the topsoil. After 2-8 weeks (depending on the weather and the type of plants), the remains of the plants will decompose - you can begin to carry out subsequent work.
6. Align the pad
The prepared surface of the ground must be leveled (for example, with a wooden strip) and compacted with a roller weighing more than 70 kg. So that the soil settles and compacts well, it is necessary to pour water over the area several times during 1-2 weeks. After this period it will be possible to finally level the base of the lawn.
Seed or roll. Which lawn to choose?
Before laying the lawn, you need to decide what is best - to sow the seeds and wait for the green shoots to appear, or to lay out the prepared turf and immediately enjoy the view of emerald greenery.
It is difficult to say unequivocally which type of lawn is better: rolled or traditional - seeded.
Each of them has its advantages and disadvantages, knowing about which, you can make the right choice.
Seedbed lawn
When can you sow grass? There are two suitable seasons for planting a lawn: late August – early September and late April – early May. During these periods, a more or less stable daily air temperature is maintained, the soil is optimally moistened and, as a rule, there is no threat of drought. You can sow grass at other times, but the result cannot be guaranteed - the weather can make its own adjustments.
How long do we have to wait for the grass to grow? Seeds germinate in ten to sixteen days, depending on the weather conditions. But until the turf becomes thick and beautiful, it will be necessary to wait two or three months. Where can you use a seed lawn? Almost everywhere, because from a variety of mixtures it is possible to choose suitable for the conditions of a particular garden. On sale, in addition to the standard mixtures of herbs for decorative (carpet) and recreational (intended for rest and walking on them) lawns, mixtures of herbs adapted to growth in shaded areas or well tolerating trampling are presented. You can also buy mixtures for intensively exploited sports lawns, to create a flowering meadow (Mauritanian lawn), as well as
regenerating mixtures for the restoration of depleted lawns. Where not worth sowing? On the slopes (without special training). During watering and rain, the seeds are easily washed off. Slopes can be sown with grass if they have been previously fortified, for example, with plastic lawn screens preventing the washing out of seeds. Is it difficult to look after? Seed lawn requires mowing, watering, applying fertilizers, combing out, verticalization (vertical cutting of the turf), aeration and sanding.
Turf
Before purchasing a rolled lawn, you need to check its quality. A strip of sod (usually 200 x 50 cm in size) raised at one end should not fall apart. It is necessary to carefully examine the roots. They should be light, not dried out. It should be remembered that after delivery to the place, the sod in rolls cannot be stored for long - it
you need to pack within one to two days after purchase. Otherwise, the edges of the rolls will dry up, and the finished lawn will not meet expectations. If it turns out that the work for some reason will last longer, it is better to unfold the strips and fold them inwards, so they can lie down for up to three days. But that the roots do not dry up, they need to be moistened.
When can you pack turf?
Throughout the season, even in late autumn (in November), as the finished turf is more resistant to frost than the young grass. How long do I have to wait for the grass to grow? The lawn looks spectacular soon after laying, and it immediately shows whether there are any weeds on it. Where can it be used? In most gardens. The turf from a roll is most often prepared for creation of recreational lawns; if you want to have a turf of carpet grass, it should be ordered in about two months. Lawns of this type are suitable, in particular, for covering slopes with a significant slope.
Where does he rather not fit? Most often and recreational,
and decorative rolling lawns are designed for growth under optimal conditions. They, for example, are not suitable for shaded places. Sod with special properties must be ordered specifically. Is care complicated? Like the sown, roll lawn you need to cut, water, fertilize, comb, conduct vertical, aeration and sprinkle with sand. Opponents of such lawns argue that under the green grass quickly appears felt (a dense layer of tangled dry yellowed shoots and roots), which spoils the appearance of grass and contributes to the development of diseases. Removal of felt has to devote quite a lot of time.
It is worth to buy about 5% more turf than it follows from the calculations.
When is it better to abandon a roll lawn?
Grass does not grow well in very shady places, for example, in the shade of thick trees. Places with sandy soil, which dries quickly, are not the most suitable - in this case, to maintain the lawn in good shape it will have to be watered very often. Sod is also not recommended to be spread between densely planted shrubs, because it will be difficult to mow (the maneuverability of the lawn mower in such places is limited). In such places, it is better to plant low ground cover plants.
Reference by topic: Which ground cover grass can be used instead of lawn
The lawn will always look beautiful if care is taken
correct and timely. Regular haircuts and watering, restoration after winter, combing out felt, aeration, verticalization - this is a short list of what is required.
Restoration after winter
You can start the restoration work in the spring, when the snow melts and the sod grows. Before starting any procedures, you need to wait until the soil dries. After this, to level the surface of the lawn, you can walk along it with a roller weighing approximately 70 kg. This is especially necessary if bulges have appeared on it due to frost. Then from the surface of the lawn rake leaves, twigs and the remains of dry grass, using rakes with long springy teeth. If there is no need for aeration or removal of a layer of felt from the lawn, in places where the grass has thinned after winter, the soil can be loosened and after sowing the fertilizer we sow the grass (it is best to use a lawn repair mixture containing fertilizer and seeds of fast-growing grasses).
Verticalization
A layer of felt can appear on the lawn two years after laying. In order to get rid of it, in the spring it is necessary to carry out a verticalization - vertical over-cutting of the turf. To do this, use a verticator - a device equipped with sharp knives that cut sod and soil to a depth of 3-7 cm. The lawn must be cut twice - lengthwise and crosswise. Then it is necessary to carefully remove all plant residues from the surface of the lawn using a sharp rake.
Application of fertilizers
In early April, it is worth feeding, to introduce complex fertilizer. It is recommended to use special fertilizers designed for lawns. Be sure to follow the recommendations of the manufacturers (usually they are on the package).
Lawn Care Regulations
Proper laying of the lawn is half the success.
Then it needs to be mowed, watered, from time to time - fed, conduct aeration (more about aeration here) and remove felt.
Fertilizer should be applied a few hours after watering or rain, when the ground is still wet, and the plants have already dried up. In this case, the fertilizer will not settle on the leaves and will not be able to damage them. The next day you need to water the lawn abundantly, of course, if it does not rain. Good composting results (sift it). It is enough two times during the season to evenly distribute a 1-2-centimeter layer of compost on the surface with a rake. It is an ideal fertilizer. It supplies nutrients in a form well absorbed by plants, improves the soil structure, protects it from moisture loss, and has a beneficial effect on the activity of soil microflora. In this case, an overdose of compost is not possible. Fertilizing should be repeated in the summer. But if slow-acting fertilizer was used in the spring, this is not necessary. During a drought, fertilizer is limited and does not use preparations with a high nitrogen content. The last application of conventional fertilizer should be carried out no later than mid-August, then the grass can be fed exclusively with special autumn fertilizers. Autumn fertilizers (with a low nitrogen content and high - potassium and phosphorus) can also be used for old lawns. They are made every few years in October. It must be remembered that in the fall you should not make other mineral fertilizers containing a large amount of nitrogen, because this leads to a decrease in frost resistance of herbs. Autumn is a good time for liming the lawn. On sandy soils - once every three to four years, and on clay soils - once every five to six years, dolomite or garden chalk should be used. This will reduce soil acidity (pH), nutrients will be easier to digest.
Watering
A young grass that appears in the spring and grows on a new lawn (both on the seed and on the roll) is sensitive to a lack of moisture. Therefore, watering should be regular. Water should be in the early morning or in the evening (so that before nightfall the grass has time to dry out). The soil should be sufficiently moistened to a sufficient depth. Do not allow drying, and then drench the lawn abruptly. To ensure that the water does not evaporate too quickly, a scattered flow should be ensured. In this case, water is absorbed gradually, moistening deeper soil layers (at least to a depth of 15 cm). For irrigation of a lawn it is necessary to use portable irrigators or to establish system of automatic watering.
In the summer, the lawn needs more water, because the air and soil become hotter and the plants evaporate faster.
In hot days it is worth watering the lawn in the morning and in the evening. Even short-term drought is dangerous.
Removal of felt and proper feeding of lawn
Felt - tangled shoots, roots, dead grass stems. It impedes the flow of air and light to the soil and roots, and also retains moisture on the surface. The appearance of felt leads to a deterioration in the appearance of the lawn and contributes to the development of various diseases. If it is not removed, the layer will become thicker, young bushes of grass will begin to grow higher (they no longer reach the roots of the soil and grow on a layer of felt). The lawn becomes uneven. The first fertilizing in the soil of a young lawn (of course, if it was well prepared) is carried out in early autumn, completing the first full season of its growing season. It is recommended to use a special autumn fertilizer for lawns.
Cutting
The first spring mowing is performed when the stems reach a height of 8-10 cm. Later, the height and frequency of mowing depends on the rate of grass growth, soil quality and weather conditions.
They will shear the grass once a week, when it reaches the height of 4-6, see. In the heat, the grass is cut higher, mowed less often. You can even for a while refuse to mow the lawn. Regardless of the height of the stems, do not cut them more than a third of the height. If for some reason the lawn has not been mowed for a long time, it should be done in several receptions with interruptions in 3-4 days. Systematic haircut allows you to keep the turf in good shape. Plants well bush, and the green surface looks very aesthetic.
Cropping the edges of the lawn
This procedure does not affect the development of the lawn, but radically improves its appearance. Along the paths and around the flower beds, it is necessary to smoothly cut the grass with a sharp knife or a special step with a semicircular blade. Next to the walls, high curbs and tree trunks, you can use hand or cordless grass scissors.
Also read: How to revive a dried lawn
Aeration
Aeration (ventilation) is best done in the fall, when preparing the lawn for winter. First, fallen leaves are raked from it and the felt is combed out with a sharp rake. Then, in order to facilitate the access of air to the roots, it is worthwhile to conduct aeration - piercing the turf. Aerators have pins or tubes with sharp edges. Holes formed after puncturing the soil should be filled with sand. This will facilitate air access and promote the development of grass roots.
How to choose a lawn mower based on the size of the lawn |
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Area of the lawn (m2) |
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Until 150 |
150-400 |
400-1200 |
1200-2500 |
|
Type of lawn mower (engine power); mowing width |
drum-type hand-held; 28-38 cm |
drum electric and battery; 32-38 cm |
rotary electric (1100-1800 cm); 36-48 cm |
rotary petrol with a drive (from 5 l. from); 48-55 cm |
rotary rechargeable and electric (up to 1100 V); 32-36 cm |
rotary gasoline (3,5-5 hp); 40-51 cm |
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Rotary diesel (3,5 hp); 40 cm, air-cushioned electric; 28-40 cm |
on an air cushion, petrol; 38-51 cm |
Lawn in practice: tips on care and styling
Lawn sowing with your own hands:
For a lawn with an area of 100 m2 2,5-3 kg of seeds will be required. If you are afraid that birds might peck them, you should sow more seeds - up to 4,5 kg / 100 m2. You need to buy them with a certain margin, because after some time you may need to plant grass on the damaged areas of the lawn. But you need to remember that over time, the seeds of lawn grass lose their germination and not all will be planted in the next season. First of all, storage of seeds in conditions of high humidity leads to a decrease in germination. Herbs are sold in packs of 0,5; 1,5; 15 and 25 kg. The packaging with herbal mixtures should indicate the name, composition (varieties of lawn grasses included in the mixture, as well as their proportion) expiration date, the area that can be sown with it.
Sowing. Best on calm and cloudy days, using a special seed drill or manually. We sow half of the seeds, passing along, and the second half - across the lawn.
Zagrebayemso that the seeds are covered with a thin layer of soil. You can also sprinkle 1-2-centimeter layer of fertile soil.
We compact the roller. Press seeds to the soil with a roller weighing approximately 70 kg, creating more comfortable conditions for germination. It will be more difficult to wash them with water, and the soil will dry less
Watering. We moisten the surface of the earth with a diffused stream of water so as not to wash off the seeds. Up to the germination of all varieties of grass that make up the mixture, you need to maintain the soil moistened - even a short-term drought can harm young plants.
We wait. In two weeks from the moment of sowing, shoots should appear. At this time on the lawn you can not walk.
Kosim. The first time the grass reaches a height of 8-10 cm. The stems are shortened by 1-1,5 cm. The next two or three mowing should be done in a similar way. Subsequently, you can mow the grass more - up to the planned height. But remember that stems cannot be shortened by more than 1/3.
How to independently lay a lawn roll
Good turf - dense, uniform green color, with a developed root system, without bald spots, yellow spots and weeds. Two types of rolled lawn are on sale: grown on a film (or net) and removed from the ground. Better, but also more expensive, as a rule, the first. Thanks to a uniformly developed, intact root system, it heals more quickly and has a higher resistance to lack of moisture.
We water the soil. After determining the shape of the lawn, water the next sections of the territory with a diffuse flow of water and gently level the surface.
We lay strips of turf. We put them back and forth, and so that the seams of the neighboring rolls do not coincide (in vain). Tightly press the strips to each other and to the soil.
We compact it with a roller. Any irregularities can be further leveled by replenishing or removing a little soil. After laying the whole turf, we press it with a roller.
Watering. We thoroughly water the lawn and make sure that it does not dry out over the next few weeks. Align its edges with a sharp knife.
Fill it with peat and sow a mixture of grass cleft between the strips of turf, which could not be perfectly pressed, which made them noticeable after watering.
We wait until the turf takes root. Do not walk on the lawn until the appearance of a young grass (about two weeks), which indicates that the turf is well established.
The authors of these complete and exhaustive advice on which the book can be written: A.Skurkovska, T. Petrovskaya, E. Samoilenko
Extra charges:
How to care for a lawn in the summer
To make the lawn look well-groomed, it needs regular mowing, good watering and top dressing. The main rule when mowing a lawn is to mow the grass no later than it will be twice as high as the recommended height of the grass stand, which in turn depends on the type of lawn. A decorative lawn, for example, should be cut shorter than a sport lawn (see table on the right).
Remember that in the summer you need to mow the grass a little higher than the rest of the year. Thanks to this, plants evaporate less moisture and more easily tolerate heat. And of course, in the summer we must not forget about watering and feeding the lawn. Important: the last feeding should be carried out in July, but in August you need to take a break. In late summer and early fall, feeding with nitrogen fertilizers that stimulate plant growth is particularly undesirable. The last time the grass is fed in the fall with potash fertilizers.
On a note:
How to deal with irregularities on the lawn?
A good lawn implies the absence of irregularities, otherwise water will stagnate in the pits, which leads to the formation of bald spots, and the grass will burn out on the mounds. Aligning the surface of the lawn is a procedure that is useful in every way. To do this, mix equal parts of fertile soil, peat, compost and sand; sift them and then spread them in a layer 1,25 cm thick throughout the lawn, filling in the recesses. It is recommended to do this once every 2-3 months, until the bumps disappear.
What should be the height of the lawn
Lawn height (recommended)
Rolling lawn or lawn seeding: expert opinion
I immediately want to warn against the erroneous opinion that a rolled lawn does not require special soil preparation and therefore is simpler and more interesting. In fact, the preparation of the soil for sowing and for laying the rolls is the same. The difference is only in the final operations - we sow the seeds of lawn grasses and plant them on a prepared base or roll out rolls on the same and similarly prepared base.
In both ways there are pluses and minuses.
Turf
pros
- You already get READY lawn, whose age is not less than two years. And this means that the herbs are fully formed and with the right approach to laying the rolls you only have to take care of the lawn - regular mowing, watering, top dressing, and periodically carry out some other care operations.
- This is the fastest way to get a lawn. After only 1-2 weeks, you carry out the first mowing, getting a lawn of two years old on your site. It is this moment that largely eliminates significant cost compared to a seeded lawn. But of course, provided that you bought high-quality lawn turf, thorough soil preparation (removing weeds, giving the existing soil sufficient fertility, leveling the surface), high-quality laying (without the formation of air cavities under the rolls and cracks between them), ensuring sufficient moisture and subsequent proper care - you can be sure that you will get a beautiful high-quality lawn. After 3-4 weeks, the lawn can be fully operational.
- It is very convenient to use the method of laying rolled sod when creating lawns in difficult places - on slopes and slopes, where sowing of seeds and subsequent watering are difficult.
- The deadline for starting work is almost the entire season - from the beginning of May (as soon as they begin to sell rolled turf) to the end of October. True, with late laying, we take a certain risk, because the turf should take root before the first frosts.
- Problems with weeds in the end are somewhat less. Although we can not neglect the work on weed control on the site at the preparatory stage. Do not think that if we lay the rolls on a leveled surface, but with a lot of weeds, we will cope with them. Some of them will develop under the sod (especially in the initial, the most important period, when the rolls take root in our site), thereby lifting it and preventing the roots of lawn grass from penetrating into the soil.
- But in the future weeds will be much less than in the sowing lawn, as we are dealing with an adult turf, which already itself struggles with weeds.
- The decorative nature of a lawn created from a roll turf is somewhat higher than that of a sown lawn. In many respects this explains the fact that, when sowing on the fields of producers, one-two-species mixtures of seeds or even variety mixtures are used (a mixture of herbs of the same species but different varieties) , increases homogeneity.
- There are several basic laying rules that you should know and follow. The edges of the rolls should be tightly fitted to each other, if this did not happen, then it is imperative to fill the resulting cracks with fertile soil. It is necessary to stack the rolls in a checkerboard pattern so that the end edges of one row do not coincide with the edges of the adjacent one. Kitchen knives are quite convenient for cutting rolls, especially with a grooved blade. After laying, it is necessary to roll the rolls with a water filling roller to “press” it to the ground and water it abundantly. When preparing the base, it should be borne in mind that the thickness of the roll is not less than 2-3 cm. This is especially important in places where the lawn adjoins paths, blind areas and already planted plants. It should be understood that the level of the site, respectively, will rise.
Cons
- The cost of finished sod with delivery is much higher than the cost of seeds.
- Very limited choice of herbs for your conditions.
- To store the sod for a long time in rolls is undesirable. It is stored only two or three days, so all the work will need to be done fairly quickly.
- The weight of one roll (the standard size of which is 2 × 0,4 m) is more than 15 kg. And since the shelf life of the rolls is limited, you should calculate your strength. Only laying on a prepared base even 200-300 rolls in 2-3 people takes at least 1-2 days. And with a complex configuration of the borders of the lawn - with a large number of cuts - the work is complicated and, accordingly, is delayed.
- There is an erroneous opinion that less careful preparation of the territory is required for laying rolled sod. Even the so-called saucers are micro-depressions with a size of 15-30 cm and a depth of 1,5-2 cm, when sown with seeds they are not too noticeable, they can be dangerous for a rolled lawn. A cavity may form under the turf, and the roll in this place simply does not take root and dries.
- The so-called flowering lawn can only be done by seeding. Slowing up the flowering grasses in the sod will not give the desired result.
Lawn by sowing seeds
pros
- This is the cheapest way to create a lawn.
- There is an opinion that the lawn, created by the method of sowing, is more stable and durable. Not surprisingly, because a mixture of several types of herbs is more viable because of the wider range of biological characteristics of each particular species in the mixture.
- You can choose the kind of mixture that is suitable for your conditions (lighting the plot, soil, etc.).
Cons
- The terms of the device are less. The classic sowing time is mid-May - early June and early-mid-August, as sowing should stop at least 45-50 days before frost. It is during this time that our herbs will give normal roots, and we can carry out at least two mowing. Other working hours are associated with additional risk and entail additional difficulties: for example, increased watering is required if the lawn is created in July, it is not known how well the lawn will take root if it is sown in early October, and how such a “young” lawn will winter.
- Crops and seedlings face many dangers. The main problems are inadequate watering, birds, wind, animals, heavy rains. When sowing, in order to protect the seeds from drying out, they should be partially covered with a rake in the ground. Usually this is done with a fan rake of 1,5-2 cm. From birds, there are different ways of protection - from pulling nets at a height of 5-10 cm from the ground to covering the entire territory with covering material. But in this case, it is necessary not to be late to remove the shelter, so as not to harm the seedlings.
- Special care is needed in the fight against weeds in the preparation of the soil, since even at the stage of germination of seeds, neither mechanical nor chemical methods of combating weeds are possible. These works can be carried out only after 2-3-m mowing in 1,5-2 months after sowing. And the development of weeds on well-prepared soil is much faster than the growth of grass seedlings. During this time, weeds can simply kill young shoots. A large number of weeds can affect the uniformity of seed germination. And even after weeding, we will get bald spots, which will have to be re-sowed. And a full-fledged lawn we will not get soon.
- In the first weeks after sowing, we encounter difficulties when watering. The main problem is not to wash off the seeds, not to fill in or, on the contrary, not to dry the lawn, as well as the difficulty in dragging the hose over the lawn when moving the sprinklers.
- From sowing to the first mowing, about 25-40 days pass. It depends on the types of seeds in the mixture and the weather. Special care is required when mowing for the first time. It is necessary to set the correct height of the lawn mower. Mowing is done with a sharp knife.
- From sowing to the formation of a real sod, at least one year passes. And all this time we are limited in the full use of this site.
© Author: S. BUZDIN MGUL
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To successfully grow a lawn from rolls, several simple rules must be observed. Do not buy sod with a large margin. The brought turf is folded in a dense shadow and covered with a film so that it does not touch it. Do not water the turf in rolls before laying, soil. To prevent drying, the edge of the turf at the joints with the tracks is covered with earth. After laying the lawn, pour it.
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The roll lawn is best laid in autumn or spring, when the maximum precipitation falls. Summer for such works is not the best time. First, overlay the edges of the future lawn, and then fill it in the center. Rolls must be staggered so that the lines of their joints do not coincide. So the grass will get better, and the lawn will be even and beautiful.
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The problem is off your shoulders, and garden and garden residents are pleasure and benefit.
So. We cut freshly cut grass. Fill it with a few buckets, pour it into the barrel and add as many buckets of water.
For each 10 l of the resulting infusion, add 40-50 g double superphosphate (if it is not added, the plants are threatened by potassium starvation even with the addition of ash).
Everything is mixed and left to wander (we put the barrel in the shade and loosely cover it with a lid). For the fermentation process to pass more evenly, the infusion is periodically mixed.
The readiness of the infusion is determined by the absence of foam with stirring. Typically, this happens on the 7-10 day.
Before use, the infusion is not filtered, just dilute with water in the proportion of 1: 2 or 1: 4, depending on the age of the plants.
The dosage is as follows: 1 l per plant or 3-5 l per 1 square. m. With mass flowering and fruit bearing of plants on each bucket of already diluted fertilizer, we add 0,5-1 a glass of ash or I0-15 g of potassium sulfate.
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Not seeing your lawn, it is difficult to answer unequivocally. But usually the most often affected lawns, laid in the spring on the drainage layer of crushed stone and not had time to settle down (to put roots in the fertile soil). In order to at least partially know the state of the lawn, it is necessary to cut out small cubes from its different sections (10x10x10 cm), lower them first into the water, then hold in a damp place and see if new white roots grow and how many of them are formed. And only then it is possible with a high degree of probability to predict whether the lawn will survive. Perhaps you will not have to cross it, but you will certainly have to sow it.
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Last year, after a strong heat, the lawn practically died - the sun burned it. Is it possible to revive it?