Proper ventilation of the cellar as a pledge of long-term storage of fruits and vegetables
Keeping the harvest of vegetables and fruits in the cellar - how to create the optimum humidity and temperature
Save vegetables and some fruits (which can be stored for a long time - read the detailed article on the correct storage of fruit and vegetable harvest read here), fresh for a long time can only be provided by the appropriate temperature and humidity parameters of the cellar, which requires a properly arranged intake and exhaust ventilation.
And that the cellar was not too wet (and this, as is known, contributes to the appearance of mold, the smell of mustiness and the multiplication of various bacteria), a certain amount of air exchange (2-4 times per hour) is required. For a proper selection of the diameter of the air ducts, allowing to fulfill these conditions, it is enough to make simple calculations.
First, calculate the required air flow:
L = K * V
where L is the air flow rate (m3/ h),
K is the multiplicity of air exchange,
V is the volume of the cellar (m3).
Then, the cross-section of the duct is determined by the formula
F = L / (Sx3600)
where F is the duct cross-section (m2);
L - air consumption (m3/ h),
S = air velocity (average annual air flow rate in natural ventilation - 1 m / s).
And, finally, calculate the radius of the duct according to the formula:
where R is the radius of the duct (mm),
F - duct cross-section (mm2),
However, I understand that for a small cellar such calculations seem superfluous because in practice they often use an asbestos-cement pipe 120 mm, which provides efficient ventilation at a given air exchange rate.
It is also important to properly install and install ductwork. Consider this for an example of a drawing-scheme of a garage with a cellar (see the figure below).
The lower mark of the exhaust duct is located under the ceiling, and the supply air duct is at the level of 500-600 mm from the cellar floor.
The air ducts should be placed in diagonally opposite corners so that the circulation maximally covers the volume of the cellar. The supply air duct with this arrangement does not need to be fastened in the fastening, since it is covered with soil. The hole in the garage floor is covered with a grid (photo 2), so that garbage is not poured into the cellar. For the convenience of maintenance, it is best to make the mesh detachable.
The upper end of the exhaust duct should also be covered with a grid to prevent foliage and other debris from entering. The most important thing is that any living creature does not penetrate into the pipe, otherwise it will be difficult to get rid of the terrible smell in the cellar.
The exhaust air duct is covered with a "fungus", which protects the ventilation duct from precipitation.
At the inlet of the exhaust duct install louvers grilles, which allows you to control the processes of air exchange (photo 1). At the beginning of winter, the supply air duct is blocked to avoid a decrease in air humidity in the cellar, drying and supercooling of the products.
In addition to ventilation, to maintain the optimum humidity in the cellar will help other measures. For example, to lower the humidity in the room, a box with salt, coal or lime is installed, since these materials are capable of absorbing moisture. Increase the same humidity can be by splashing water or sprinkling the floor with wet sawdust.
Ducts of natural ventilation can be made from almost any material. Do not use only flexible sleeves that are impractical and wear quickly.
Ventilation channels are knocked together even from planks. However, this is quite painstaking, and most importantly - short-lived. In my opinion, for this purpose it is preferable to use polypropylene or asbestos-cement pipes, since these materials are not subject to biodeterioration.
See also: We build a cellar with a high water level with our own hands
The main factors influencing the natural ventilation of premises are usually called thermal and wind motives. Thermal motivation is the result of heating the ventilation duct.
Wind motivation arises under the influence of wind energy, which pushes air from vertically located ventilation ducts. To strengthen this factor (traction) in natural ventilation systems use deflectors. However, in windless weather, the efficiency of such devices is significantly reduced.
In this case, the open ventilation ducts can still work under the influence of thermal motivation.
The main advantage of natural ventilation systems is that they are constructively simple, reliable and durable.
Air exchange is carried out without the use of complex equipment, which reduces the cost of construction and subsequent operation of structures. At the same time, natural ventilation systems are compatible with forced ventilation systems (fans, split systems, air conditioners).
Disadvantages of natural ventilation systems are a continuation of their advantages.
The main of these drawbacks is the dependence of the performance of the ventilation system on the difference in temperature of indoor and outdoor air, as well as the strength and direction of the wind.
Multiplicity of air exchange is a quantity whose value indicates how many times within an hour the air in the room is completely replaced by a new one. The rules for calculating the frequency of air exchange in ventilation systems directly depend on the purpose of a particular room. So, the multiplicity of air exchange in a hot shop or chemical laboratory will differ significantly from this indicator in a dwelling or vegetable storehouse.
Author L.Anisimov.
Figure 1. Garage with a cellar - drawing.
The scheme of natural ventilation: 1 - cellar; 2 - exhaust air duct; 3 - umbrella; 4 - garage; 5 - supply air duct.
A note for gardeners: How to properly store fruits and vegetables
1.Fruit storage should not be removed in wet weather or early in the morning when the fruit is covered with dew, otherwise they will quickly deteriorate. When laying, the crop is sorted - at the slightest suspicion of damage or the absence of the stalk, the fruit is put aside for consumption or processing. Storage areas for vegetables and fruits are recommended to be distributed in order to prevent the fruit from getting an unpleasant odor and taste. Apples, pears and plums can be stored both in crates and on shelves. It is advisable to lay the fruits in three or four, a maximum of five layers for better ventilation and facilitate regular inspections. Desired storage temperature - + 2-3 ° С
Collect medium and late-ripening radishes, similar to carrots - large, with sweet, juicy pulp. Also do not forget to collect carrots and beets. Dry the root crops in the sun and sort them before laying them for storage. Dig a crop of onions. Bulbs need to be slightly dried. If you cannot tie them into braids, cut dry leaves and put the onions in boxes.
2. Ventilate the storage periodically by temporarily opening the ventilation hatches. If there is excessive moisture, place a box of slaked lime in the room. Check the vegetables stored in the basement. Pay special attention to potatoes, pumpkin, cabbage, and root vegetables. When potatoes sprout, lower the temperature to + 2 ° C. Sprinkle any wet spots that appear with chalk or ash; you do not need to touch them to avoid transferring the infection by hand. Select pumpkin and cabbage heads with black (slimy) spots that appear, cut to healthy tissue, transfer to the refrigerator, using first.
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And at the end of September I raise the jars with workpieces on the upper shelves and cover with pieces of bubble or reinforced film, so that the moisture drops do not fall on the covers, and the old blanket (at minus 6 ° banks can burst). Fresh forks (15-20 pcs.) With two covering leaves sprinkle with chalk and bind in pairs with twine for the sticks. That it was convenient to do it, I cut the stump not at the very head, but by retreating from it 2 cm. For rope loops I hang the forks to the wire stretched under the ceiling of the cellar. In this position, cabbage is kept until spring.
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With the onset of frost, I transfer to the cellar potatoes, cabbage and root crops that were stored in the barn. I sprinkle the tubers with ash and put them in the lowest part of the room: the tubers for food - shoulder, seed - in boxes. I layered carrots with sphagnum, chopped wormwood or nettles and placed in the opposite corner from the potatoes. I pour the beets, swede and parsnip between them (these vegetables do not interfere with each other). I keep radish, daikon and turnips in bags or boxes on a separate rack, since root crops are rotten and can spoil the products they come into contact with.
Part of carrots and parsnips I store directly on the bed. Before the arrival of stable colds, I cut off the tops, I cover the bed with a thick layer of straw or fallen leaves, then with plastic wrap. In the winter I warm it with snow.