Cherry - growing and varieties, tree care and pruning
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How to grow a cherry in the garden - planting, pruning tree care
Cherry is one of my favorite garden trees. Despite the fact that it is relatively complex in nursing care for beginner gardeners, it quickly starts giving delicious and abundant in most years - this is an undoubted advantage.
Only an indefinite life span of a cherry tree can be considered a sinus, but you can not guess it either, because no one can give an exact answer to the question "how long the cherry tree lives" - everything depends on soil, variety, growing conditions and, of course, on the time that You pay attention to it.
So, for example, my neighbor through the house, has a cherry obtained by him from the old owner of which, according to our "estimates" for more than forty years, and it feels excellent, the yields are excellent, the freezes tolerate better fresh seedlings, although there is neither the former owner nor the house , in the garden of which it grew.
Over the past eight years, I have removed only one tree, which, in principle, could still yield a crop, but was already old and as a result of shading by a neighboring walnut, one part of its crown dried up. Otherwise, I have 4 trees left in my garden and 5 more on the site - each from 7 to 15 years.
All fruit well, cut once in 2 year, do not give much development up, so it was more convenient to collect berries with a ladder. In the spring I spray, not letting future worms appear from the fruit fly. In principle, this is all my care for cherries. Considering the foregoing, there was even the idea of buying a large plot on the "cheap" and splitting a garden consisting of some cherry trees on it, it is very profitable business - in fact one tree in its financial expression gives from 1500 rubles and more (sometimes many times). And the buyers I have long been their own, they themselves know when to come how to collect, branches do not break at collection, boxes of their own, so that the financial make-up is very palpable. But let's move to science first
The sweet cherry - Latin name (Cerasus aviam L) belongs to the genus "Cerasus Mill", the subfamily of the plum (Prunoidecie Focke) family. pink (Rosaceae Juss.).
Origin.
Homeland cherries are considered Southern or Middle Europe, the Balkan Peninsula and Asia Minor, where it is now found in the wild.
Food and medicinal value, properties.
Cherry gives, perhaps, the earliest high-quality products. Cherry fruits are rich in nutrients, contain up to 15% of sugars, a significant amount of easily digestible micro- and macro elements, vitamins A, C, B1, AT2, AT6 organic acids. In the core of the bone - up to 30% of the oil used in the perfume industry. In medicine, cherry fruits are used in diseases of the urinary tract, as well as gastric diseases. Decoction of cherry bark acts as a fixing.
Oil, cooked from the bones of cherries, is an excellent remedy against chronic gout and promotes the excretion of stones from the kidneys and liver.
Biological features.
Sweet cherry is a thermophilic plant, less winter hardy than apple, pear, cherry, plum, but more hardy than apricot, peach and almonds.
Cherry is a light-loving culture.
For drought tolerance cherries exceed quince, apple tree, plum, pear, but inferior apricot and almonds.
Sweet cherry is a weakly resilient rock. Blossoms in the middle period before the cherry, apple, but later the apricot, peach and cherry plum, due to which it is more resistant to spring frosts.
Fruiting cherries mainly on bouquet branches and shoots of mixed type.
Trees of cultivated varieties are durable, live 50-70 years and reach a height of 8-12 m.
Cherry varieties.
In modern gardening, there are more than four thousand varieties of sweet cherry. Cultivated varieties in the composition and density of the flesh of berries are divided into two types:
- "Gini" - these varieties and types of cherries have a juicy flesh and are suitable only for eating berries without processing.
- "Bigarro" - these varieties are more suitable for processing, because they have a very dense pulp.
The following varieties of cherries are most common:
- Melitopol black,
- Valery Chkalov,
- June early,
- Success,
- Fairy tale,
- Krasnodar early,
- The beauty of the Kuban,
- Velvet,
- Caucasian,
- Donchanka,
- Donetsk beauty,
- Vasilisa.
- Yaroslavna
- Otrada
- Liubava
- Donetsk Coal
- Donchanka
- Travneva
- Annushka
- Blenkenburg
Also read more about harvest varieties of sweet cherry here
Planting and care of cherries
Sweet cherry feels best on warm calcareous and loamy soils. Poor arid and crushed soil for her unfit. The cherry grows poorly on saline soils.
Also, respected gardeners and gardeners, please note that the cherry tree grows very poorly in places with a high level of groundwater - it should not be planted in places where their level is closer than 1.5 meters from the soil boundary, the roots will rot, the yield will be small and the care for cherry, planted in such places will take away all your time.
It is recommended to plant cherry seedlings in the southern areas of horticulture in the fall (until mid-November), so that the roots take root before the onset of frost, and in the more northern areas in the early spring, before active sap flow in plants begins. On tall stocks, trees should be placed according to the scheme 7 × 4-5 m, on medium-sized stocks - 6 × 3-4—4 m, and on weak-growing stocks - 2 × 3-XNUMX m.
When planting, the roots of the sweet cherry are not cut off, only the damaged ones are removed. Long roots are better to bend in the pit. The soil around the plant is watered and mulched. In early spring, you can whitewash the stem and skeletal branches, as well as post-planting pruning.
Depending on the natural climatic conditions, the presence of irrigation, density, planting, age and condition of plants, the soil in the aisles of the garden can be kept under black steam, sowed or sown in the type of sod-humus system. Prestvolnye stripes are treated with mills, and for control of weeds, we use herbicides.
In plantations, sweet cherries begin to make organic and mineral fertilizers every year for 5 year after planting the garden. Once in 3 year, according to 20-40 t / hectare of manure. The introduction of mineral fertilizers is determined depending on the content of basic nutrients in the soil.
Take note of the fact (especially for those who are planning to lay their own hands on the cherry orchard to grow it later for sale) that with very wet and frequent watering, the sweet cherry (though not all varieties, but most) can crack and rot, so watering it is necessary to stop before the ripening of berries, approximately for 20-25 days.
Formation and pruning of cherries.
Cherry has a high awakening of the kidneys, but its shoot-forming ability is weak.
Therefore, it has a pronounced stem and longline in the placement of branches. To form cherry is recommended by the type of a longline crown, which most fully corresponds to the peculiarities of this culture.
The most common are sparse-tiered, vase-shaped, semi-flat and spindle-shaped.
To form a sparse-longline crown in the first tier, three or four skeletal branches are laid, in the second two or three, and in the third one or two branches. Distance between tiers 0,5-0,8 m.
Vase-shaped (cup-shaped) crown consists of 4-5 main branches of the first order (central conductor absent). Due to the good clarity of the middle part of the crown, the fruit formations live 12-15 years.
For intensive plantations with a planting pattern of 4-5 × 2-2,5 m, a spindle-shaped crown is proposed. The crown consists of 3-4 tiers of lateral branches, in which no more than 3-4 branches.
The inter-tier space is 60 cm, and the height of the 80 stem see this type of crown. It requires obligatory bending of the branches and summer pruning of the shoots. When pruning trees, thinning branches and shortening shoots, especially weakly branching varieties.
Cherry responds well to summer and spring pruning.
This photo was used to prune the same cherry tree a year and two.
Also, many techniques of pruning and shaping the crown are applicable to the cherry, which are described in this article
Reproduction of sweet cherry.
As a strong seed seedstocks use wild cherry and antipke.
In recent years, clonal stocks have become widespread.
Of the mid-size - Kolt, LC-52, VC-13, weak rootstocks - Guzella-5, XL-1, XL-2.
The best way to obtain the planting material is the budding, which is carried out in July-August, or the spring inoculation with a cuttings in the nursery in March.
Pests:
- cherry fly,
- cherry aphid,
- cherry mucous sawfly,
- goat.
Diseases:
- kokkomikoz
- moniliosis (gray rot of stone fruit)
- clapsterosporiosis (holey patchiness)
Cherry fly - how to fight, spray solution recipe
The cherry fly settles mainly on the cherry tree.
The larva penetrates to the bone, and damage the flesh. To prevent the disease, it is necessary to regularly destroy the fallen fruit, collect foliage and debris, clean up timely, leaving no overripe fruits on the trees.
If necessary, at the beginning of the mass summer of flies, which coincides with the period of the appearance of ripening and color-changing fruits, spray the cherry trees with "Ak-tellikom 500 EC".
Of folk remedies, the infusion of Dalmatian or Caucasian chamomile is effective, which is prepared from 200 gram of inflorescences, stems, leaves or roots of Dalmatian chamomile or the same number of blossoms of Caucasian chamomile. They are harvested during the flowering period. Insist a mixture of 12 hours in 1 liters of water and drain, the ground mass of the plant is poured an additional 5 liters of water and insist another 10-12 hours.
After that, both solutions are mixed together and used for the treatment of trees.
Against coccomycosis and moniliasis cherries (as well as cherries) are often used (and with success) the drug "Mikosan"
How to collect correctly
The ripening of the cherry berries of most varieties occurs most often on a stretch from 5 June to 20 July.
After the ripening of berries, you will have only a few days to collect them - otherwise the crop will rot in the bud. Again, if you grow cherries for sale - you need to negotiate with the buyer in advance - that he took the berries from you right after you tore them from the tree, in my experience I can say that if the cherry boxes stay at least one night in the house before the sale, the percentage of waste and the culling of berries immediately increase, and this is a tangible loss in money.
When collecting berries by hand, various devices are used - fruit-removable supports and stairs.
Council of gardeners and gardeners who grow cherries for sale: buyers of cherries and second-hand dealers will persuade you to pick berries, tearing off petioles, with such peculiar bundles. As my nephew says, "Do not be fooled," and only negotiate with the buyer about the berries.
This should be done for the reason that such harvesting is very harmful to the tree, and also greatly affects the amount of the ovary that will be tied for next year. It has long been noted that "commercial" cherry trees are more often sick, they care for more, and the harvest is less, and as you understand, it can only be with one - plucking berries with tassels.
Using.
In spring and summer, the sweet cherry is eaten fresh. From cherries are prepared compotes, jams, fruit preserves. Juice is used in the alcoholic beverage industry.
Sweet cherry natural.
The berries are separated from the pedicels, thoroughly washed and dried. Stacked in cans, simultaneously pouring layers of citric acid and sugar, for several hours put in the refrigerator. After that, the jars are supplemented with berries with sugar to the top and sterilized: 0,5 l. - approximately 17 minutes, 1 l. On average 22 minutes minutes, 3 liters - 45 minutes.
On 1 kg of sweet cherry - 50 grams of sugar and 6 grams of citric acid.
Pickled sweet cherry.
For pickling, large fruits are taken. At the bottom of the banks put 4 peas pepper (fragrant), 4 clove bud, a bunch of cinnamon. Then, densely laid clean, washed in no way rotten berries with a high level of maturation. For filling 1 l. banks boil 450 milliliters of water and 200-230 grams of sugar, add 60 ml of 6-percent apple or 40 ml of 9-percent table vinegar. In the jar put 600-700 g cherries, hot mix the berries, cover the jar with a lid, put in the preheated water to 50 degrees Celsius and conduct the pasteurization process for 15-17 minutes.
They eat as a side dish to meat dishes, put in salads.
Gem from the sweet cherry.
Fruits wash, remove bones, add 3 spoons of water (messes) and boil the whole thing on low heat until half of the original volume remains.
Then pour out the sugar and cook until completely cooked.
At the end, add citric acid.
The best cherry jam is made from cherry varieties with brightly colored berries.
At 1 kilogram of sweet cherry you will need: a pound of sugar, 4 a gram of "lemon"
On a note:
Cherry juice for cores and smokers
Despite the fact that obtaining the juice from the sweet cherry can not be called the most common way of eating this fruit, cherry juice is very useful. First of all, like the fruit itself, it is extremely tasty, so you should be careful not to abuse it. One glass is enough. By the way, it's worth noting that such a juice is contraindicated for diabetics. But for smokers, it can become a true panacea. It contains a large amount of vitamin "C", which is known for its antioxidant properties. The presence of potassium, magnesium and retinol in its composition makes it extremely useful for patients with cardiovascular diseases.
Growing cherry on a note
It is impossible to imagine this, even taking into account the global warming, but already in June in Moscow suburbs early varieties of sweet cherries ripen. For example, the variety Sadko (manufacturer of seedlings by the way the same name with a variety of the company) in 20 June numbers is completely ready for use!
Fruits are sweet, dense, resistant to cracking. The tree begins to bear fruit on 4-5-th year. Cherry Sadko good harvest, winter hardy and less than cherry, is affected by fungal diseases.
Cherry + cherry = duck
CHERRY-CHERRY - a hybrid of cherries and cherries obtained by breeders. Its biological name is Duke. Dukes inherited the best from their parents. Among the dukes, varieties with higher taste and large fruit sizes stand out: The beauty of the north, Black consumer goods. Meeting, Wonder-cherry, Shrimp, Toya.
Large fruits of the ducks (9-15 g) have a pleasant taste, the trees are fruitful, resistant to many diseases and pests. The average yield is 10-15 kg from the tree. In fruiting they enter the 3-4 year. Frost-resistant, endure 25-degree frost.
But all sorts of ducks are self-fertile. For pollination, they only need cherries, they often do not take cherry pollen. If there are few varieties of cherries and cherries at the dacha, the ducks can not find a pollinator and will yield a very low yield. For example, if you grow a dude Miracle-cherry, and next to the sweet cherry Julia, then there will not be a big crop, because Julia does not pollinate the miracle-cherry.
If the dyke (or other stone fruit) before sprinkling with poison, the insect pollinators will also die.
Fruit-filled hatches on bouquet branches - shortened fruit formations (0,5-5 cm), placed mainly on top. They consist of a group of kidneys in which the lateral buds are generative (fruit), and the terminal vegetative (growth) buds. At the same time, shoot formation is weakened.
Experienced gardeners have noticed that before joining the fruiting trees of the ducks grow strongly. And when they begin to harvest, growth is weakened. In this regard, the nature of the pruning changes.
The first annual increments should be shortened by 1 / 5-1 / 6 escape length.
The main task of the spring pruning of fruit-bearing ducks is to maintain the necessary growth of branches. When the gain weakens to 10-20 cm, it is necessary to perform a light rejuvenating pruning: to shorten the branches along the entire crone for 3-4-year-old wood. This operation is repeated once in 5-6 years.
In the first year the shortening of the branches will cause a slight decrease in the yield. But the next one is leveled, and in subsequent years it rises due to the growth of numerous lateral shoots.
After shortening the annual branch by 1 / 5-1 / 6 length, remove the competitor with an acute angle of retreat (less than 45 degrees), cut the center conductor to 40 cm, so that bouquet twigs form at the base.
The lateral branches of the dykes are cut depending on the angle of retreat (from the trunk): the greater the angle of retreat, the weaker the pruning.
Lateral branches with an angle of retreat 90 degrees do not shorten, but pinch, removing the apical bud. Then more bouquet twigs are formed.
To form a larger number of bouquet branches at the base of the branches, pruning is applied to the side branch. This changes the direction of the branch.
You can not tolerate the thickening of the crown of the dykes, and periodically it is necessary to use thinning. The main attention should be paid to the correct placement of branches, subordination and prevention of the formation of sharp forks.
All slices, incl. on the annual branches of the ducks, cover with grease or paste, or with oil paint on natural varnish, so that the pathogens after the pruning are not infested with pathogens. Like other stone fruits, ducks do not tolerate excessive soil moisture. Frequent watering causes gum aeration, cracks on the trunk and skeletal branches.
In order to maintain the optimum soil moisture, the stock circle should be covered with mown grass, weeds without seeds.
Pre-remove the weeds, pour the soil, add complex top dressing and only then scatter the mulch. Dry soil can not be mulched, because while the flow of water to the roots slows. If the soil does not mulch, be sure to loosen after watering. With a good increase (40-60 cm) at the end of May in the inter-row sow the siderates. But the stock circle should remain under the black steam.
All sorts of ducks are self-fruitful. For pollination, they only need sweet cherries.
You can not tolerate the thickening of the crown of the dykes and periodically it is necessary to use thinning.
Cherry - planting, pruning and care: reviews and experience
My childhood passed in the Bryansk region, and there I first met sweet cherries. True, she grew there for some reason not in private gardens, but in nurseries, and the trees were not tall, and the berries on them were small, yellowish-pink in color and unsweetened in taste. After studying, I left for Ukraine, got married. Her husband’s parents (in the Kirovograd region) near the house cherries grew, but they were already completely different: growing under the sky, the crowns were sparse (branches were far from each other). Harvested from them only from the lower branches, and the rest went to the birds, because it was scary to climb the fruits to the very top. And the berries, by the way, were large, sweet, dark red in color.
“This is a completely different matter,” I thought. “When I have my own house and garden, I will also plant such cherries.” But at the same time she was already beginning to think: something needs to be done with the trees so that they were also small — say, three meters high — and the density of the crown would not be affected.
Of course, no one allowed me to experiment with cherries. It remained to wait.
Pruning cherries in two stages
When we had our own dacha near Kiev, I immediately planted many fruit trees: apple trees, pears, plums, and, of course, cherries. The very first tree was of the Valery Chkalov variety. The seedling took root well and quickly began to grow with a large swing to the sides - as if by its whole appearance showing me that it was time to put my dream into practice. Well, then so be it. In June, when the young shoots began to grow most strongly, I shortened them by almost half. By the end of the summer, two or three new shoots have grown from these "stumps", which I also pinched. At first, I confess, it was scary: what if I ruin the seedling?
Ho next year I look - the tree began to round up, gain splendor. And again I repeated everything too.
And in a couple of years she was already collecting excellent harvests from a beautifully decorated tree, not particularly bothering herself with exercises with crawling along the staircase attached to it. Then planted the variety Drogana yellow and again began to cut its branches again. Over time, when I already got my hand and gained experience, I gradually began to complicate the procedure of pruning, but the main ideas remained the same: I do it in the summer and hardly a stage.
The first. In late May - early June, I delete all weak young branches, as well as those that grow in the middle of the crown. Then I take up the central conductor: I cut it at a height of three meters with the transfer to one of the most developed side shoots. Well, then comes the turn of the new season branches: I shorten them by four to five leaves.
The second stage begins in August. On branches that have grown by this time, I leave only three or four leaves. Next year, flower buds form on these shoots, the upper of which give new shoots. As a result, with the help of such summer pruning, I get relatively low trees with a rounded crown without bare skeletal branches. But most importantly, the fruits are distributed evenly on them, and it is convenient to collect them.
The bees are in shock
Along the way, I want to share a story about cherries. We inherited it from the previous owners and was already, as they say, aged - with a thick trunk and a dense crown. She bore fruit well, although the berries were small. And so I climbed to collect them, and the branches grew so densely and intertwined with each other that I could not stick my hand between them. I decided to fix this matter: I took a saw - and on a tree. Without sparing, she cut off all the branches that interfered with me, as well as those that grew up. The crown was also cut down, trying to make the crown of the cherry resemble the “hairstyle” of a weeping willow. The following year, many young shoots grew, of which they also removed some.
First of all, I cut very long thin branches, as well as those in which the leaves were only at the very tips. And, I note, after that the berries became much larger, and their collection turned into a pleasure - there was no need to scratch your hands.
They will tell me that now you can read everything on the Internet. Yes, I agree, but when I started experimenting, and it was 12 years ago, there was still no such ego hobby. In addition, I have everything checked by personal experience, and the authors of the websites basically reprint the same information.
And I’ll write how I made Renclod Altano plum fruit, using the advice from our magazine - to throw two handfuls of sand into the crown during flowering. She did this from despair, because the tree, although it was already an adult (the trunk was about 15-20 cm in diameter), and refused to give the crop. And what do you think? It helped!
I now always, when all my fruit trees bloom, I toss four or five handfuls of sand to their crowns (to be sure), trying to get higher. My husband, it is true, is critical to my experiments: "You beached all the eyes with sand fell asleep." Well, if she fell asleep, then they blinked, and the result is obvious: the trees are bearing fruit!
© Author: Tatiana NIGAY
CHERRY WHICH IS RADA ALL!
Among the stone tree trees, sweet cherry is probably the most beloved. The harvest of its early varieties ripens so early that it competes with garden strawberries. If you choose the right varieties, you can enjoy the sweet cherry for a long time until the end of July. But its fruits are not only tasty, but also have a lot of useful qualities!
In it - only good!
The fruits of the sweet cherry are eaten fresh, they are boiled out of compotes, jam, make a marshmallow, and dried. Depending on the variety, the fruits contain 12-28% dry matter, the bulk of which is sugar (8-16%). There are many vitamins in sweet cherry fruits, in particular vitamin C, Bn. PP, carotene. They are distinguished by a high content of potassium (223 mg%), which positively affects the functioning of the heart, contain phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, sodium, iron, chlorine, and dark colored also contain cobalt, which takes part in blood formation.
Sweet cherries are always happy children, it is extremely useful for lactating mothers, as well as people with a sick heart, for whom the period of ripening of sweet cherries is a time for cheerfulness and freshness. The fruits of medium and late ripening periods have the best taste, since they contain more sugars and dry matter.
Get plenty of light and pollinators!
Cherry is a light-loving culture, therefore it is necessary to choose areas that are well illuminated by the sun. Maintain the optimal light mode in the crown of the tree should be using regular annual pruning. If these conditions are not observed, the fruiting shifts to the periphery of the crown.
Cherry blossoms before cherry, apple and pear, sometimes simultaneously with cherry plum, but later apricot and peach, therefore, as a rule, it does not freeze in the spring. The plant is cross-pollinated, that is, a high yield can only be expected if there are trees of different cherries in the garden 2-3. When self-pollinating most varieties of the crop does not.
A positive effect can be given by the joint planting of cherries and cherries, with which it is well pollinated.
"GROWTH DISEASES"
Mature cherry trees often suffer from bark breaks. While the trees are still young, their bark is soft and elastic, so 2-3-year-old trees do not have tearing of the bark, as a rule.
But already from the third year of the tree’s life, the bark grows coarse, gradually losing its elasticity, while the cambium continues to grow actively, forming wood. As a result, the bark does not keep up with the growth of the cambium, the pressure on it grows and it cracks. To prevent this from happening, I apply a furrow.
For this end of the knife, deepening it into the cortex approximately on 2 mm, I make a longitudinal incision of length 10 — 15, see. Stepping back from it, 5 cm - one more same cut. So throughout shtambu - from the branches of the first tier to the place of vaccination. Wounds are treated with 1% solution of copper sulfate. This avoids damage to the bark of the tree.
VARIETY REQUIREMENTS
Successful cultivation of the sweet cherry is possible only with the use of varieties that have high winter hardiness, are resistant to diseases, are compatible with the main rootstocks, and respond well to fertilization and watering.
When choosing a variety, it is also important to pay attention to the size of the fruit (large-fruited varieties are in demand), the strength of the growth of the tree (as a rule, low-growth trees are chosen), the resistance of the fruit to cracking. In terms of the quality and mass of fruits, many of our varieties have reached world standards and are in no way inferior to foreign ones.
Among the huge variety of varieties, I chose those that have worked well in different growing areas, have different ripening periods and as a result form a cherry conveyor from late May to I decade of July.
DELICATED CONVEYOR
Ruby Early - very early ripe grade of sweet cherry. Ripens in late May. Fruits are dark red, weighing 5-6 g, good taste (4,2 points). The variety is high-yielding, winter-hardy, resistant to moniliosis, slightly affected by coccomycosis, self-infertile. It is considered the best of the early varieties.
Donetsk beauty - mid-season variety, bred by L.I. Taranenko at Artyomovskaya Experimental Station of Gardening. Ripens in the second half of June. Fruits weighing 9-10 g, dense, fleshy, gristly, intense red, excellent dessert taste (4,75-4,9 points), the bone freely separated from the pulp. The variety has a high stable yield, winter-and drought resistance, resistant to coc-comicosis.
Woman resident - mid-season variety. Ripens in the II decade of June. Fruits are medium weight 8,7 g, yellow, resistant to cracking. The flesh is creamy, tender, juicy, dessert taste (4, 6 points). The stone is freely separated from the pulp. The variety is highly resistant and fruitful.
Vasilisa - A new promising large-fruited variety. It ripens in the second decade of June. Fruits weighing 12-14 g, dark red. The flesh is red, gristly, juicy, pleasant sweet taste (4,5 points). It has a high stable yield, resistance to coccomycosis.
Cordia - A new late-ripening variety of Czech breeding. Ripens in the first decade of July. In fruiting variety enters early and bears fruit regularly. Resistant to diseases. Fruits weighing 8-10 g, carmine-red, very attractive. The flesh is dense, gristly, light red, fragrant, very tasty. Fruits do not crack even with excessive moisture, very transportable, are popular with buyers in the market.
© Author: Ivan DZIGORA, scientist agronomist
YIELD CHERRY: 4 GOLDEN RULES
The times when cherries were a southern rare culture are long gone. Now plants of zoned varieties winter well in the middle lane. And if the best copies of cherries give 10-12 kg of fruit from a tree, then cherries can mutilate up to 30 kg. True, subject to four important conditions.
- Choose the right varieties
Frost-resistant cherries are usually self-infertile. Therefore, plant at least two plants of different varieties on the plot. If there are more, it’s even better. But here it is important to take into account the timing of flowering varieties: paired, you can plant either early with mid-ripe or mid-ripening with late. Or all three options at once. But if only early and late cherries are "settled" on the site, there will be no sense, because the timing of their flowering does not coincide, and pollination will not occur.
- Deoxidize the soil
Sweet cherry loves slightly acidic soils, but sour is not to her liking. Therefore, before planting a tree, add lime under digging (in spring or autumn). On light soils - 300-400 g per 1 sq.m, on heavy soils - 600-800 g per 1 sq.m. In the future, lime on acidic soils should be applied once every 3-4 years. In autumn or spring, spread it evenly under the cherries and dig the ground to a depth of 20 cm.
- Highlight a dry spot.
Sweet cherry will not grow on the site if groundwater is closer than 1,5 m from the soil surface. Therefore, if possible, choose elevated areas.
- Trim the ends of the branches
Young cherries give very large growths over the summer - up to 120 cm! However, the tops of these branches (30-40 cm) in the middle lane usually do not ripen and freeze in winter. In the spring, the dry ends have to be cut off ...
I advise you not to wait for this, but to pinch the ends of the shoots in the summer, when they reach a length of 60-80 cm. In this case, new short shoots will grow from the side buds, and the crown of the tree will become thicker. This means that there are more fruit buds. In addition, short branches ripen faster and do not freeze in winter.
© Author: Alexey VOLODIKHIN. agronomist, Moscow
LANDING AND CORRECT CLEAN CARE: VIDEO
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
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- Types and varieties of hawthorn (fruit and decorative) - photo + name + description
- Alycha large-fruited (photo) - planting and care
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- Columnar plum - cultivation and my reviews
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This fall I planted a cherry seedling (two branches grow from the top of the head with a fork). Do I need to cut it for the winter? How to form a crown?
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- Set aside the pruning of the seedling planted in the fall until early spring. To get a tree with a well-developed crown, cut the seedling at a height of 80-100 cm from the ground. Skeletal branches will begin to grow at a height of 60-80 cm - and you will get a crown that is easy to care for. If the upper part of the seedling is not cut off, then the skeletal branches are formed from the very two branches near the crown. As a result, a huge tree will grow, the fruits from which will have to be collected using a ladder.
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Cherries form from the first year
Every year I harvest excellent cherry yields. Of course, caring for plants is important. But first you need to properly form a tree. This process begins with the planting of one-year-old seedlings in spring - cut off the top, leaving 80-100 above the ground. From the kidneys during the season, 3-4 shoots grow - these are the skeletal branches of the first tier. To give them a horizontal position, in the beginning of summer, while they are young, I bend and fix the clothespins.
In autumn (at the end of September), I again cut off the conductor, retreating from the first line 80, see. As a result, next year, during the summer, a second tier with 2-3 skeletal branches is formed. In just three years I get 6-8 skeleton branches of the first order. When cutting them, side branches of the second order appear.
Accordingly, when trimming second-order branches, third-order branches are laid on them, and so on. The more fouling wood - the higher the yield. This procedure I spend in the spring (in March) and in the fall (in late September or early October) - I shorten the shoots over the 3-5 sheet.
After the completion of cherry formation (the height of the trees - up to 4 m), I delete only broken, damaged, and thickening branches of the crown.
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The gardener has the right to choose any mulch material - peat, sawdust, sand, sloping grass, etc. for backfilling of the grove.
Just remember: any mulch, including a brick, is a good shelter for hibernating pests. The author's recommendation on the lining of the hawking belts may well be applicable. Where to put them: on the tree trunk or on a number of hammered sticks is the choice of the gardener.
Valery MATVEEV, Doctor of Science
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Help to understand what has grown in the past year on cherries: the shoot seems to have grown and expanded (see photo).
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- In the photo - fasciation of shoots. This is a vegetative mutation - occurs in the kidney, from which then a flat, ugly shoot escapes. The reasons are different: the "work" of viruses, some diseases, the result of damage by insects or mites.
In your case, Peter, the cold spring of 2017 caused the tree to freeze and, at the same time, provoked the appearance of fasciation on the trees. For a person, the phenomenon is harmless, but it is better to remove such shoots from plants. They are badly ripening, freezing, they are more easily affected by diseases and pests.
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At us all berries cherries are wormy.
Who eats them?
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A white worm in a cherry tree is a larva of a cherry fly. Each adult fly postpones up to 150 eggs per season.
Control measures:
1. Hang out the traps on the trees - containers with kvass, honey water or compote (4-5 cans per tree), as well as strips of light yellow paper pasted onto the cardboard with ALT glue.
2. In spring, during the mass fly-out period, which usually occurs when the air temperature rises above + 18 degree, and coincides with the bloom of the acacia, sprinkle the trees with insecticide solution (Karate, Iskra, Aktara). After 10-15 days, repeat the treatment.
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Recently, a cherry tree has been planted, so I can tell you how to prepare a seat according to all the rules. The size of the pit should be 60 x 80 cm. In the lower part we introduced 15 kg of humus with the addition of 300 g superphosphate, 100 g of ammonium nitrate, 100 g of potassium chloride.
All these components were thoroughly mixed, and fertile soil was poured on top. Everything, you can plant a plant. Planting is no different from other fruit. After planting - as usual, watering. One plant needs several buckets of water. In the next few years, fertilizers do not need to be applied - those that are poured into the pit will be enough for this period. And the care for cherries is the same as for cherries and plums.
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When growing cherries, it is important to remember several rules for success. Do not plant the tree too deep - when planting, position the root neck 4-5 cm above the surface of the soil, given that it will soon settle. Cherry shoots grow very intensively, therefore, in order to prevent thickening, annual spring pruning should be performed. After the first 5 years of life, branching weakens and pruning is made less intense - if necessary, sanitary pruning is performed, and the slices are treated with garden varieties. Fertilizers under the cherry are good to apply in early spring. In September, fertilizing with phosphate fertilizers is needed to prepare for the winter. During the ripening period of the berries, be sure to cover the tree with a net, otherwise the birds may completely peck the crop.
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I lost my 6-year-old cherry. Started to wither in 2013 year: the leaves began to wither and fall. I watered it, fed it, sprinkled it, but there were no shifts. So she left in the winter. In the spring, leaflets appeared, several flowers, but then everything happened again. In autumn the son-in-law cut the cherry. There are a lot of moles in the garden, is it really their job?
And the second problem: gray worms appeared on potatoes and carrots. They write on the Internet that these are small larvae of May beetles, which then become white, but nothing like that, May, both large and small, white, and these, both small and large, are gray. I was told that this is a scoop. I saved the carrots with great difficulty, and when I started digging potatoes, I was horrified! It was two times less than in previous years, all in the holes. I hardly picked seeds from the best bushes, and the food that I gave to my neighbors in past years went for food. So the question is: what kind of pest is it, where did it come from and how to deal with it? Maybe someone has already fought with this scourge, or else they write on the Internet that, apart from chemistry, nothing will help.
Galina Mikhailovna
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O The leaves of the cherry began to twist. I did not find any wreckers, and there are no other obvious causes of damage either.
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The subsequent growth with healthy leaves indicates that there are currently no aphids on the plant.
It is likely that in the damaged twisted leaves oviposition of aphids remains, which can cause a re-infection. Therefore twisted, strongly corrugated leaves are better to tear off and burn. In autumn, like other fruit trees, it is necessary to process the cherry with 5% solution of urea.
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Sweet cherry is a tall-growing breed, therefore it is advisable to purchase varieties grafted on ordinary cherries, which somewhat inhibits growth and gives greater resistance to the conditions of our climate. When the tree reaches a height of 3-3,5 m, it is necessary to remove the conductor near the lateral skeletal branch, so that it is more convenient to harvest. This contributes to the growth of the crown in breadth. Seedlings are best planted at a distance of at least 4 m from each other. The main advantage of sweet cherry grown in the Moscow Region is that the trees are practically not affected by pests and diseases, since we simply don’t meet "native" cherry pests.
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How to deal with coccomicosis and moniliosis in cherries? Are there any varieties or types that are resistant to them? Can there be immune varieties?
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There are no cherries cultivars immune to fungal diseases (coccomycosis and moniliosis). This is a matter for the future. Currently available northern varieties of cherries are practically not affected by these diseases, southern varieties are affected. To protect against pathogens of fungal diseases, it is recommended to carry out spring spraying of the tree crowns with fungicides. The first - according to flower buds, the second - immediately after flowering. Concentrations are indicated on the packages.
The greatest damage to the southern cherries causes moniliosis. Spore infection occurs during flowering. Affected flowers, ovaries and tops of shoots fade and look like burnt. Hence the name of the disease - monilial burn. During the summer, the disease spreads further with fungal hyphae with raindrops. Affected young shoots dry out from the top to the base (the fungus spreads through the vessels of wood). If such drying out shoots are found, they are cut out with a secateurs,
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How to save fruits?
Three cherries of the Valery Chkalov variety grow on our site. They bear fruit excellently, only berries cannot be eaten with all desire - they are affected by worms. Four times spraying trees with drugs my husband and I can not do (both are already great for 70). Dear summer residents, tell me, please, some folk remedies to cope with this misfortune. I also heard that decoction from walnut shells helps garden pests well, but I don’t know how to cook it. Maybe someone in the know?
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We are amateur gardeners, we have several cherries, but it was not possible to grow cherries and get a harvest - the climate is not the same. Therefore, we decided to try to plant in our garden a winter-hardy hybrid of cherries and Cherries of the North.
As it turned out, the dyuk (so called all hybrids of cherries and cherries) is in many respects different from the "progenitors": its leaves are more cherry, but as dense, and the berries are sweeter than cherries. Well, perhaps, the main advantage of the beauty of the north is the resistance to diseases.
To plant a hybrid is better in the early spring, but we acquired the planting material in late autumn and therefore planted the seedlings in the basement, where they perfectly overwintered. For the landing selected a solar section, protected from the wind. It is worth paying attention to
how much sand is in the soil, if necessary - to fertilize it. Young trees were planted no more than 5 m from each other. They planted in holes, and sprinkled on top with soil mixed with sand (1: 1). Initially, seedlings were watered often, then they reduced the frequency and volume of irrigation. For the winter, the trees were sheltered.
The hybrid is not pollinated on its own, so we planted seedlings near the cherries growing in the garden. In order for the root system of young trees to develop well, mulch their mown grass and from time to time loosen the soil in the trunk circle. Constant feeding of the duck is not needed: they often break down the growth and the harvest may deteriorate. Last year our young trees gave the first berries-very tasty!
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To these beauties ~ 100, till now fruit: ic.pics.livejournal.com/rhjrz/37309444/4013/4013_800.jpg
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Taming of sweet cherry
Cherry is such a character: in youth it grows upward without retention (1,5 m per year!), And with the growth of branches it is a problem. But after all, the berries are tied precisely on the branches! And what to do? From the first years of my life, I have been taming sweet cherry agility with pruning. In spring I shorten the leading branch
half. We find it simply: it has grown longer than all the others.
In summer, I cut off all the vertically growing branches, leaving no more than four kidneys on them, leaving the branches directed outwards leaving whole or cutting only the tops with two buds.
When I notice that the growth of the lower branches becomes
more than 50 cm per year, pruning is stopped.
All this cutting process lasts 5-7 years, until the time of fruiting comes. By this time, the cherry tree turns into a compact tree with well-developed branches, fully ready to "produce" many sweet and juicy berries.
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I have cherry in the country, already 4 year, when to expect berries?
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Cherry in Siberia
There is an opinion that in conditions of Siberian cold weather a fruitful garden cannot be started. Not true! In the gardens of Siberia, apple trees, pears, plums and even apricots are successfully grown. I suggest that residents of cold regions also plant cherries, only the variety must be selected frost-resistant. My favorite - Valery Chkalov, gives the largest crop.
First, select a sunny spot on the site. We plant cherries at an angle of 45 ° at a distance of 3,5 m from each other. We dig holes 70 × 70 cm and 0,5 m deep, pour them into a bucket of humus and mineral fertilizers: 50 g of potassium sulfate, 100 g of superphosphate and
500 g of lime. Growing branches pinned to the ground to form a crusting crown. For 3-4, a tree with a height of 1,5 m is formed and with long branches up to 3-5 m. In autumn, the trunks are lined with lime with the addition of clay.
For winter, the trees are covered from frost: we fall asleep with leaves, pin branches. When enough snow falls, then we put a film with a load on top of it. In the spring we take off the cover and attach the trunk to the peg. Then we cut the growth buds. Prestulny circle mulchiruem humus or mown grass. During the summer we keep the soil moist. And in autumn we harvest!
Tatiana Irkutsk region
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Forming the cup-like crown, above the stem, 4-5 lay the skeletal branches from the annual growths, which are shortened to 50-60 cm and the central conductor is cut out.
The semi-skeletal branches of the sweet cherry and the shoots formed, reaching 60-65 cm, are cut to a length of 40-45 cm, given their subordination. Not used in the creation of the skeleton of the crown, shoots are left as long as 20-25 cm.
It is undesirable to allow the growth of crowns of cherries above 4-4,5 m. The tops of strongly growing skeletal branches are cut to the side branches, to reduce the height of the tree. Do not forget to treat and grease the resulting after cutting the wound.
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How to form the cup of the sweet cherry?