24 Review (s)

  1. Inna Menshova, Samara

    This fall I planted a cherry seedling (two branches grow from the top of the head with a fork). Do I need to cut it for the winter? How to form a crown?

    • OOO "Sad"

      - Set aside the pruning of the seedling planted in the fall until early spring. To get a tree with a well-developed crown, cut the seedling at a height of 80-100 cm from the ground. Skeletal branches will begin to grow at a height of 60-80 cm - and you will get a crown that is easy to care for. If the upper part of the seedling is not cut off, then the skeletal branches are formed from the very two branches near the crown. As a result, a huge tree will grow, the fruits from which will have to be collected using a ladder.

  2. Lidia SOSEDKINA

    Cherries form from the first year
    Every year I harvest excellent cherry yields. Of course, caring for plants is important. But first you need to properly form a tree. This process begins with the planting of one-year-old seedlings in spring - cut off the top, leaving 80-100 above the ground. From the kidneys during the season, 3-4 shoots grow - these are the skeletal branches of the first tier. To give them a horizontal position, in the beginning of summer, while they are young, I bend and fix the clothespins.

    In autumn (at the end of September), I again cut off the conductor, retreating from the first line 80, see. As a result, next year, during the summer, a second tier with 2-3 skeletal branches is formed. In just three years I get 6-8 skeleton branches of the first order. When cutting them, side branches of the second order appear.
    Accordingly, when trimming second-order branches, third-order branches are laid on them, and so on. The more fouling wood - the higher the yield. This procedure I spend in the spring (in March) and in the fall (in late September or early October) - I shorten the shoots over the 3-5 sheet.

    After the completion of cherry formation (the height of the trees - up to 4 m), I delete only broken, damaged, and thickening branches of the crown.

    • OOO "Sad"

      The gardener has the right to choose any mulch material - peat, sawdust, sand, sloping grass, etc. for backfilling of the grove.

      Just remember: any mulch, including a brick, is a good shelter for hibernating pests. The author's recommendation on the lining of the hawking belts may well be applicable. Where to put them: on the tree trunk or on a number of hammered sticks is the choice of the gardener.
      Valery MATVEEV, Doctor of Science

  3. Peter Doroskov, town of Molodechno

    Help to understand what has grown in the past year on cherries: the shoot seems to have grown and expanded (see photo).


    • OOO "Sad"

      - In the photo - fasciation of shoots. This is a vegetative mutation - occurs in the kidney, from which then a flat, ugly shoot escapes. The reasons are different: the "work" of viruses, some diseases, the result of damage by insects or mites.

      In your case, Peter, the cold spring of 2017 caused the tree to freeze and, at the same time, provoked the appearance of fasciation on the trees. For a person, the phenomenon is harmless, but it is better to remove such shoots from plants. They are badly ripening, freezing, they are more easily affected by diseases and pests.

  4. AK Gorokhov, Lipetsk

    At us all berries cherries are wormy.

    Who eats them?

    • OOO "Sad"

      A white worm in a cherry tree is a larva of a cherry fly. Each adult fly postpones up to 150 eggs per season.
      Control measures:
      1. Hang out the traps on the trees - containers with kvass, honey water or compote (4-5 cans per tree), as well as strips of light yellow paper pasted onto the cardboard with ALT glue.
      2. In spring, during the mass fly-out period, which usually occurs when the air temperature rises above + 18 degree, and coincides with the bloom of the acacia, sprinkle the trees with insecticide solution (Karate, Iskra, Aktara). After 10-15 days, repeat the treatment.

  5. Vera Konstantinovna

    Recently, a cherry tree has been planted, so I can tell you how to prepare a seat according to all the rules. The size of the pit should be 60 x 80 cm. In the lower part we introduced 15 kg of humus with the addition of 300 g superphosphate, 100 g of ammonium nitrate, 100 g of potassium chloride.

    All these components were thoroughly mixed, and fertile soil was poured on top. Everything, you can plant a plant. Planting is no different from other fruit. After planting - as usual, watering. One plant needs several buckets of water. In the next few years, fertilizers do not need to be applied - those that are poured into the pit will be enough for this period. And the care for cherries is the same as for cherries and plums.

  6. Vladimir Alexandrovich Rogov, Volgograd

    When growing cherries, it is important to remember several rules for success. Do not plant the tree too deep - when planting, position the root neck 4-5 cm above the surface of the soil, given that it will soon settle. Cherry shoots grow very intensively, therefore, in order to prevent thickening, annual spring pruning should be performed. After the first 5 years of life, branching weakens and pruning is made less intense - if necessary, sanitary pruning is performed, and the slices are treated with garden varieties. Fertilizers under the cherry are good to apply in early spring. In September, fertilizing with phosphate fertilizers is needed to prepare for the winter. During the ripening period of the berries, be sure to cover the tree with a net, otherwise the birds may completely peck the crop.

  7. Tatyana Grigorieva

    I lost my 6-year-old cherry. Started to wither in 2013 year: the leaves began to wither and fall. I watered it, fed it, sprinkled it, but there were no shifts. So she left in the winter. In the spring, leaflets appeared, several flowers, but then everything happened again. In autumn the son-in-law cut the cherry. There are a lot of moles in the garden, is it really their job?
    And the second problem: gray worms appeared on potatoes and carrots. They write on the Internet that these are small larvae of May beetles, which then become white, but nothing like that, May, both large and small, white, and these, both small and large, are gray. I was told that this is a scoop. I saved the carrots with great difficulty, and when I started digging potatoes, I was horrified! It was two times less than in previous years, all in the holes. I hardly picked seeds from the best bushes, and the food that I gave to my neighbors in past years went for food. So the question is: what kind of pest is it, where did it come from and how to deal with it? Maybe someone has already fought with this scourge, or else they write on the Internet that, apart from chemistry, nothing will help.
    Galina Mikhailovna

  8. Elena

    O The leaves of the cherry began to twist. I did not find any wreckers, and there are no other obvious causes of damage either.

    • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

      The subsequent growth with healthy leaves indicates that there are currently no aphids on the plant.
      It is likely that in the damaged twisted leaves oviposition of aphids remains, which can cause a re-infection. Therefore twisted, strongly corrugated leaves are better to tear off and burn. In autumn, like other fruit trees, it is necessary to process the cherry with 5% solution of urea.

  9. Anatoly Mikhailovich Belov, Moscow

    Sweet cherry is a tall-growing breed, therefore it is advisable to purchase varieties grafted on ordinary cherries, which somewhat inhibits growth and gives greater resistance to the conditions of our climate. When the tree reaches a height of 3-3,5 m, it is necessary to remove the conductor near the lateral skeletal branch, so that it is more convenient to harvest. This contributes to the growth of the crown in breadth. Seedlings are best planted at a distance of at least 4 m from each other. The main advantage of sweet cherry grown in the Moscow Region is that the trees are practically not affected by pests and diseases, since we simply don’t meet "native" cherry pests.

  10. V. Pimenov The Tula region.

    How to deal with coccomicosis and moniliosis in cherries? Are there any varieties or types that are resistant to them? Can there be immune varieties?

    • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

      There are no cherries cultivars immune to fungal diseases (coccomycosis and moniliosis). This is a matter for the future. Currently available northern varieties of cherries are practically not affected by these diseases, southern varieties are affected. To protect against pathogens of fungal diseases, it is recommended to carry out spring spraying of the tree crowns with fungicides. The first - according to flower buds, the second - immediately after flowering. Concentrations are indicated on the packages.
      The greatest damage to the southern cherries causes moniliosis. Spore infection occurs during flowering. Affected flowers, ovaries and tops of shoots fade and look like burnt. Hence the name of the disease - monilial burn. During the summer, the disease spreads further with fungal hyphae with raindrops. Affected young shoots dry out from the top to the base (the fungus spreads through the vessels of wood). If such drying out shoots are found, they are cut out with a secateurs,

  11. Tamara Veniaminovna

    How to save fruits?
    Three cherries of the Valery Chkalov variety grow on our site. They bear fruit excellently, only berries cannot be eaten with all desire - they are affected by worms. Four times spraying trees with drugs my husband and I can not do (both are already great for 70). Dear summer residents, tell me, please, some folk remedies to cope with this misfortune. I also heard that decoction from walnut shells helps garden pests well, but I don’t know how to cook it. Maybe someone in the know?

  12. The TARASOV family, Pskov

    We are amateur gardeners, we have several cherries, but it was not possible to grow cherries and get a harvest - the climate is not the same. Therefore, we decided to try to plant in our garden a winter-hardy hybrid of cherries and Cherries of the North.
    As it turned out, the dyuk (so called all hybrids of cherries and cherries) is in many respects different from the "progenitors": its leaves are more cherry, but as dense, and the berries are sweeter than cherries. Well, perhaps, the main advantage of the beauty of the north is the resistance to diseases.
    To plant a hybrid is better in the early spring, but we acquired the planting material in late autumn and therefore planted the seedlings in the basement, where they perfectly overwintered. For the landing selected a solar section, protected from the wind. It is worth paying attention to
    how much sand is in the soil, if necessary - to fertilize it. Young trees were planted no more than 5 m from each other. They planted in holes, and sprinkled on top with soil mixed with sand (1: 1). Initially, seedlings were watered often, then they reduced the frequency and volume of irrigation. For the winter, the trees were sheltered.
    The hybrid is not pollinated on its own, so we planted seedlings near the cherries growing in the garden. In order for the root system of young trees to develop well, mulch their mown grass and from time to time loosen the soil in the trunk circle. Constant feeding of the duck is not needed: they often break down the growth and the harvest may deteriorate. Last year our young trees gave the first berries-very tasty!

  13. Alexander

    To these beauties ~ 100, till now fruit: ic.pics.livejournal.com/rhjrz/37309444/4013/4013_800.jpg

  14. Guest feedback

    Taming of sweet cherry
    Cherry is such a character: in youth it grows upward without retention (1,5 m per year!), And with the growth of branches it is a problem. But after all, the berries are tied precisely on the branches! And what to do? From the first years of my life, I have been taming sweet cherry agility with pruning. In spring I shorten the leading branch
    half. We find it simply: it has grown longer than all the others.
    In summer, I cut off all the vertically growing branches, leaving no more than four kidneys on them, leaving the branches directed outwards leaving whole or cutting only the tops with two buds.
    When I notice that the growth of the lower branches becomes
    more than 50 cm per year, pruning is stopped.
    All this cutting process lasts 5-7 years, until the time of fruiting comes. By this time, the cherry tree turns into a compact tree with well-developed branches, fully ready to "produce" many sweet and juicy berries.


  15. I have cherry in the country, already 4 year, when to expect berries?

  16. Reader

    Cherry in Siberia
    There is an opinion that in conditions of Siberian cold weather a fruitful garden cannot be started. Not true! In the gardens of Siberia, apple trees, pears, plums and even apricots are successfully grown. I suggest that residents of cold regions also plant cherries, only the variety must be selected frost-resistant. My favorite - Valery Chkalov, gives the largest crop.
    First, select a sunny spot on the site. We plant cherries at an angle of 45 ° at a distance of 3,5 m from each other. We dig holes 70 × 70 cm and 0,5 m deep, pour them into a bucket of humus and mineral fertilizers: 50 g of potassium sulfate, 100 g of superphosphate and
    500 g of lime. Growing branches pinned to the ground to form a crusting crown. For 3-4, a tree with a height of 1,5 m is formed and with long branches up to 3-5 m. In autumn, the trunks are lined with lime with the addition of clay.
    For winter, the trees are covered from frost: we fall asleep with leaves, pin branches. When enough snow falls, then we put a film with a load on top of it. In the spring we take off the cover and attach the trunk to the peg. Then we cut the growth buds. Prestulny circle mulchiruem humus or mown grass. During the summer we keep the soil moist. And in autumn we harvest!
    Tatiana Irkutsk region

  17. Irina

    Forming the cup-like crown, above the stem, 4-5 lay the skeletal branches from the annual growths, which are shortened to 50-60 cm and the central conductor is cut out.
    The semi-skeletal branches of the sweet cherry and the shoots formed, reaching 60-65 cm, are cut to a length of 40-45 cm, given their subordination. Not used in the creation of the skeleton of the crown, shoots are left as long as 20-25 cm.
    It is undesirable to allow the growth of crowns of cherries above 4-4,5 m. The tops of strongly growing skeletal branches are cut to the side branches, to reduce the height of the tree. Do not forget to treat and grease the resulting after cutting the wound.

  18. Svetalana

    How to form the cup of the sweet cherry?


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