Polycarbonate greenhouse with own hands (photo) - step by step
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Cellular polycarbonate greenhouse - phased description, assembly, construction and interior design
To begin with, we will solve the question, which will largely determine the future internal structure of the greenhouse - what to make the border of beds from?
Usually high beds border boards, sometimes with a thickness of 40-50 mm. But on a large run in 5 m even thick boards will bend. I'll have to think about additional fastening, struts. And how much will all this cost?
Having visited the construction market, I came to the conclusion that it would be slightly more expensive to make a curb from a bar, but much easier and better than a board. I could not find a beam with a section of 200 × 100 mm, so I decided to fasten a beam of 100 × 150 mm and a board with a section of 100 × 50 mm. This turned out to be convenient, since with the help of a beam-lining it was possible to make an angular connection in a tenon / groove. To fix the border to the harness, I had to make grooves in the front beam.
The adjoining parts of the beams of the border were previously smeared with bituminous mastic. Nailed together, driving them under different slopes and in different directions. This prevents the formation of cracks when the wood dries. The upper part and the part of the bar turned into a passage slipped. From all angles he took a facet.
After the adjustment, the bar was removed for smearing the rear faces and grooves with bituminous mastic. The tile of the passage was temporarily closed with a polyethylene film.
Set the curb beam in place - he lay on the tile, forming a passage of 80 cm.
Has smeared bitumen mastic previously unworked parts of the strapping. The land that was taken out of the passage was distributed outside the basement.
Since the painting works are due, the tile should be covered with a film. The height of the curb is set by two knocks, previously cut from the side of the aisle. We touch the contiguous faces with bituminous mastic. The edges facing the ground are also smeared with mastic. To avoid chipping from sharp corners, we remove the bevel.
Thanks to the lower timber, it is easy to organize both the angled stud joint of the curb walls and its abutment to the frontal bar of the strapping.
On the southern side, the slope made a flat, width of 1,20 m. Here the strawberry will grow. On the north side, the slope is steeper. On it, I plant ground cover plants, for example thyme. In the ground near the foundation, a small cuvette-hollow should be provided, so that sedimentary water accumulates in it. On the soil capillaries this water will partially penetrate into the soil of the beds in the greenhouse.
Reference by topic: What are the greenhouses
The soil level in the beds is displayed level with the timber. The planed upper and turned parts of the beams were cleaned from the ground and treated with tinted varnish for external use.
Assembling a polycarbonate greenhouse
Self-respecting manufacturers write in the assembly instructions under what conditions, under what wind and snow loads the greenhouse should be operated. But even in the Moscow region there are hurricanes screwing metal structures of billboards. I had to see how the greenhouse was torn off by the wind, and there were no cases when a horse breaks in the snow. Therefore, it is advisable to further strengthen the greenhouse.
The best option is to build a power structure in the form of a prism from a planed beam with a section of 100 × 50 mm.
First, a horizontal beam was attached to the ridge part of the greenhouse. From both sides it does not reach the ends of the greenhouse by 1-1,5 m. From the corners of the foundation there are 4 oblique posts. As a result, the design turns out to be very resistant to vertical and lateral loads, and functionally also plays the role of supports for plants - horizontal poles or ropes are attached to inclined racks, to which you can tie the branches of tomatoes, cucumbers, grapes (which has become popular in greenhouse culture).
The gap between the ground and the front strapping beam in the passage zone closed as follows. First, he poured a concrete heel, then to the level of the beam - a wall. This ended the basic foundation work - it is time to begin assembling the frame of the greenhouse.
See also: A greenhouse inside the greenhouse!
Sheets polycarbonate I fixed in accordance with the instructions. At first, he closed the ends of the greenhouse, the sheets for which were cut before the assembly of the whole frame.
The open ends of the sheets of cellular polycarbonate with a thickness of more than 8 mm are recommended to be glued with adhesive tape. Moreover, on the one side of the sheet, an integral tape is glued, and on the other, perforated, which ensures the escape of water vapor. It is not practical to seal cell polycarbonate with a thickness of 4 mm - there is no active ventilation of the cells in it. And if they want to prevent the penetration of water into the honeycomb (which, incidentally, evaporates quite quickly), the ends are coated with silicone sealant.
In the greenhouses cellular polycarbonate is fixed with self-tapping screws with metal rubber washers-spacers, or with the help of thermowells. Under the thermowells, large holes are drilled in such a way as not to over-tighten the polycarbonate. For thin sheets of polycarbonate these requirements are unprincipled and even undesirable. Plastic thermowells often break, polycarbonate sails and rips off. If in the winter in the large holes falls melt water, then, freezing, it tears the cells. Thin carbonate does not react strongly to tug-of-war. on the contrary, it has the property of sitting down in place and tightly fitting the frame. The manufacturing companies indicate the expansion-compression of the 4-millimeter sheet of polycarbonate to 1,5 cm at 6 bend. m, which is partially compensated for by the thermal expansion-contraction of the metal in the arc construction of the hothouse frames.
If the frame of the greenhouse consists of arches, it is covered with one sheet through the ridge, and in the design of the greenhouse “ Mitlajderu"- two. They begin to cover from the ends with a protrusion of -5 cm. I met with instructions in which it was recommended to fix the polycarbonate sheet from the bottom up. In practice - both in the arched greenhouse and in the “according to the Mitlider” greenhouse - it is more convenient to fix polycarbonate from the ridge. For easy and comfortable work with a polycarbonate sheet, I used spring-loaded metal strips.
See also: Greenhouse pyramid with their own hands
Pre-cut strips of the required length. In the bar of the strapping, where these stripes were planned to be fastened, screwed the screws. He put a sheet of polycarbonate to the frame and, so that it does not blow away from the wind, he presses the ladder. From the corner of the greenhouse I fixed the polycarbonate to the ridge with a screw with a metal strip, without twisting it completely. Toward the other end of the strip, a spring was attached and, pulling it, put it on the lower screw. Lined the sheet on the ridge and screwed the next screw with a strip, which also pulled the spring. Speaking specifically about my model of a greenhouse, when installing a sheet of polycarbonate with a width of 2,1 m it is convenient to use four metal strips that evenly press the coating to the arches and screeds. After aligning the sheet, two middle bands were removed. Sheet secured from below. From the other end I installed the second sheet similarly. After fixing it, I temporarily removed the internal metal strips and overlapped the central sheet, fixing it on the used technology. Strips returned to the place, pressing them with two sheets at once.
Thanks to this method sheets of cellular polycarbonate are pressed against the frame elements tightly and evenly, without cracks and gaps.
The lower part of the polycarbonate, which enters the bundle bar, was fastened with screws with a pitch of 10-12 cm through a metal tape.
Traditionally, hinged doors are placed in greenhouses - there were no others before. But in operation, sliding ones are more convenient, and if the manufacturer can offer a greenhouse with a similar design as an additional option, it is advisable to choose it.
On the main curb, I fixed a planed beam with a section of 100 × 50 mm, which prevents the spilling of land from the beds to the passage. After drying the varnish, he removed the protective film from the floor and proceeded with the construction of ramps.
I laid out the inner ramp from the tile 40 × 40 cm. The ground under the ramp was covered with road geotextiles. To prevent the ants from taking a walk, he made the filling under the tiles from rubble, which he rammed, leveled with the rule and also covered with road geotextiles.
I made the outer ramp from the tile 50 × 50 cm. First, on a sand cushion covered with geotextiles, I placed a pair of horizontal plates. He laid a piece of geotextile on the ground and poured rubble with a layer of 15 cm. After tamping, he tilted it according to the rule, covered it with geotextile and put down the bottom slabs of the ramp. An open layer of crushed stone was also covered with geotextiles and covered with crushed stone at the desired level and slope. Geotextiles were laid on the rubble, and the top plates were placed on it. From the sides, the ramp was sprinkled with earth into which ground alpine plants will be planted.
The construction of a polycarbonate greenhouse in the country - phased photo to the article
Construction of greenhouses on the site with their own hands
Photo1: Outside the beams of the harness, which can be covered with earth, carefully smeared with bituminous mastic. We excavate the earth from the passage outside the basement. The height of the soil in the beds is deduced by the level of the beam.
Photo 2. The frame of a typical greenhouse is assembled in accordance with the instructions and fixed on the foundation. Inside, we construct a power structure from a bar with a cross section of 50 × 100 mm, planed and painted in a light tone to avoid excessive heating and cracking. In the frontal part, we close the gap from the ground to the strapping beam with a concrete wall.
3. Cover the frame of the greenhouse with polycarbonate starting from the ends.
4. In the greenhouse “according to the Mitlider” it is convenient to close the small slope and the windows at first. The last slope is the last one.
5. The use of metal tapes makes it easy to align a sheet of cellular polycarbonate.
5. The lower end of the tape is hooked by a spring to the self-tapping screw, previously screwed into the bundle bar.
6. The sheet of polycarbonate, released from below on the bundle bar, is fixed with screws through a metal tape.
Photo 7. The inner and outer ramps are poured from the rubble. We lay the paving slab on the road geotextile. A pair of horizontal slabs prevents sliding of the slabs of the outer ramp.
Photo 8. An additional border made of timber with a cross-section of 100 × 50 mm prevents the spilling of earth into the aisle when working in a greenhouse.
The result of the work in the photo above. We wish you a successful and “warm” construction on the site!
Author S. Batov
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Why can’t general cleaning of a greenhouse in the fall be postponed or cancelled?
- How to ventilate a greenhouse - how much and when is better
- Greenhouse "spring-summer" what can be grown?
- How I built a polycarbonate greenhouse with my own hands
- What are the greenhouses. Construction of greenhouses in the country - types and structures
- Growing citrus fruits in a greenhouse - my tips and reviews
- Hothouse in the heat - a set of cases for the gardener: CUCUMBERS, TOMATOES, PEPPER
- DIY polycarbonate greenhouse - reviews of a summer resident
- The right greenhouse - tips for the device
- Membrane chamber with own hands - photo
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K / drank a greenhouse made of polycarbonate. Inside, they made a central aisle along the sides of the bed. Dug boards from the boards (their height was about 30 cm), poured fertile soil mixed with compost, and planted tomatoes of different varieties. Poured as expected, the door in the greenhouse was opened for air exchange on hot days, but all the same our plantations were burnt and rotted. What did we do wrong? Tell me please!
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How to ventilate the greenhouse?
Last summer we installed a greenhouse made of honeycomb polycarbonate. One thing is bad: in the daytime the temperature rises to 60 ° in it, and it is harmful to plants. For rural residents, it is not a problem to close in the evening, and open the doors in the morning. But what if you go to the country house only on weekends?
In early spring, we tighten the vents in the greenhouse with a covering material - acrylic or lutrasil. And on the frame inside we stretch a non-woven material that gives a shadow, but transmits a sufficient amount of sunlight for plants.
Do the same - and you will not regret, the vegetables will thank the harvest.
Marina Tereshkina