6 Review (s)

  1. Oksana FEDOTOVA, Nizhny Novgorod

    The large-flowered chrysanthemum received as a gift in a pot, I kept all winter in a cool, ventilated room (with a temperature of about +18 degrees; at +25 degrees, and above, the buds quickly dry out). After flowering, the plant was not cut off, but only removed the yellowed leaves. I transplanted it into universal soil, did not feed it with anything. Watered abundantly as the soil dries up and sprayed 1-2 times a week.

    Closer to summer, I transplanted the chrysanthemum into the open ground: I thoroughly shed the soil lump, letting it soak, and took it out of the pot along with the plant. I planted it on a bed with sod soil, watered it. The gift took root well, pleased with the flowering all season and even bloomed next year. I always follow the rule: plant chrysanthemums in a shaded place - they dry out quickly in direct sunlight. Kept the soil under the plant moist (that's still a water lover!). I fed them once every 2 weeks with a complex fertilizer for flowering. Chrysanthemum loves spraying (even daily!) - I practiced every three days, but only after sunset, trying not to get on the flowers and buds so as not to cause burns.

    • OOO "Sad"

      After transplanting (preferably in May) chrysanthemums, it is advisable to mulch with a layer of humus or peat of 3 cm. Be sure to loosen the soil after watering: the plant does not like compaction (crust formation) and waterlogging. Water sparingly, but generously.

      A week after planting, it is advisable to remove the top of the stem (pinch), leaving 4-8 leaves - this is how the plant root and bush better. After 2-3 weeks in low-growing varieties, the procedure can be repeated to enhance the effect. Inflorescences will appear on lateral shoots in the future. Be sure to pinch the large-flowered chrysanthemums: remove the processes that develop from the axils of the leaves on the main flowering shoots (leave 1-6). The fewer there are, the larger the inflorescences.

      Lyudmila ULEISKAYA, Cand. biol. Sciences, Yalta

  2. Larisa Kovaleva

    Will the bushes of large-flowered chrysanthemums purchased at the end of October survive until spring if they are simply completely buried in the ground?

    • OOO "Sad"

      - Of course, it is easier to store chrysanthemum rhizomes in the cellar (basement) in winter. However, if there is no reliable storage, late acquired, as well as large-flowered and other especially valuable chrysanthemums are stored buried in the garden. This is possible in areas where there is good snow cover in winter and the ground does not freeze too deeply. The site should be located outside the flood zone, and early in the spring free of snow.

      Until the soil is frozen, you need to dig a trench on the site, as a rule, with a depth of half a meter. Chrysanthemum bushes dug out after frost are pruned and laid (vertically or horizontally) at the bottom of the trench. Fill it to ground level with dry leaves prepared in advance (it is permissible to use dry sawdust or light humus soil, the topmost layer may be spruce branches). Then they are covered with boards, slate, thick cardboard, a piece of polycarbonate, etc. P.; cover with plastic wrap on top. The main thing is to prevent dampness, otherwise the plants will be wiped out. In the spring, after the snow melts, the trench is opened gradually (layer by layer). The rhizomes are transferred to a warm place for growing, planting in pots, or, depending on the weather, immediately planted in open ground.
      Alexander SEMENOV, agronomist,

  3. Tamara VASILEVSKAYA, Saint-Petersburg

    There is an eastern legend about an evil dragon trying to swallow the sun. He bit his teeth, tore his claws. Pieces of the sun fell to the ground and turned into chrysanthemums. And since then, every fall, when the weakening sun goes to rest, bright flowers continue to illuminate and warm the earth and the hearts of people ... A wonderful legend, right? And it is very suitable for our places where there is so little light in autumn.

    I have been growing small, but bright Korean chrysanthemums for many years. It is thanks to them that my flower garden remains beautiful when the cold is already destroying most of the plants. In autumn, the chrysanthemum blooms and requires nutrition, but top dressing can provoke the growth of greenery and prevent the bush from preparing for winter.

    This contradiction is resolved by generous fertilization during planting, top dressing in spring and summer, and correct formation of the bush. By the beginning of flowering, the bush should be lush, strong. Then he will have enough strength to complete the seasonal cycle. In the fall, chrysanthemums need to continue to be watered abundantly (if there is no rain). In case of frost at night, a film cover should be put on the flowers. At the end of October, the aerial part must be cut off, leaving the hemp. Cover the bushes with a mixture of peat and sawdust, and top with leaves.

  4. Elena Kalenskaya

    Reproduction by cuttings of chrysanthemums

    Although some early varieties of chrysanthemums blossom in August and please flowering to the first snow, many consider them to be autumnal flowers. Probably, because all autumn holidays are bound to the abundance of luxurious bouquets of these flowers.

    In the Nikitsky Botanical Garden (Crimea), exhibitions and sales of chrysanthemums are held annually, striking in the variety and richness of the color palette. Thanks to successful breeding work, plants have been created that have very high decorative characteristics, of course, and the price for them is far from wasteful.
    Quickly multiply a favorite flower - the dream of every florist. But if we take into account the fact that plants grown from seeds lose their varietal characteristics, it is certainly more expedient to obtain new specimens by vegetative propagation. This approach allows you to quickly reproduce any variety you like.

    Preparation of queen cells and receipt of cuttings
    Reproduction by the vegetative method means obtaining the necessary material from cuttings, which are cut from the growing root shoot after winter storage of the uterine plants. Therefore, it is necessary to observe the conditions of winter storage and pay special attention to the quality of queen cells. The optimum temperature for the passage of the rest period by the plant should be 3-5 ° C.
    As queen cells, it is necessary to select unaffected diseases and well-developed specimens.

    To obtain more plants for the preparation of queen cells, one should start at the end of February. Plants are brought into a warm room, cut off all lignified hemp and begin to water. A week later, the root shoots begin to appear.

    Only those shoots suitable for cutting are allowed to grow directly from the root.
    When 3-4 leaves appear, you can start harvesting the cuttings, which I recommend to cut directly under the knot. As shoots grow unevenly. then, in order to obtain a significant amount of single-aged seedlings from a small number of queen cells, the cuttings can be stored in the refrigerator. In wet sawdust on the lower shelf, they remain up to two weeks.

    Rooting of cuttings
    Ideal for successful rooting of cuttings is a soil with a neutral reaction, consisting of pure perlite or a mixture of perlite and river sand in equal parts.
    This substrate is characterized by high air permeability and moisture capacity.

    For rapid rooting, cuttings of chrysanthemums are treated with solutions of root formation stimulants. The cuttings are buried by 2-3 cm, covered with a transparent cap (to create the necessary microclimate) and rooted at an optimum temperature of + 18-20 ° A month later, the seedlings will have a good root system. As soon as the threat of frost has passed, young plants can be planted in a permanent place.


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