What can and should be done in May at the dacha and in the garden - the order of work, priority

May on the site, cottage and in the garden (who that) is the hottest because of the number of works a month.

From the month of May, it depends which harvest we will get by the season. However, it should be noted that the month of May is very insidious. In most regions of Russia, the sun is hot, the soul asks for the dacha - start digging everything, planting it and so on. However, at night they will freeze and all the seedlings will freeze.

Hence the conclusion - once May the month of the main cares in the garden and on the site means there is a need to clearly plan all the work.

In the central part of Russia, the beginning of May is usually warm. Night temperatures stably hold above + 5 ° C, which means that the trees and shrubs begin sap flow, the buds are awake. But in the middle and even in the end of May cold air masses can suddenly break through, causing frosts, sometimes accompanied by snowfall. These natural phenomena are so vast that some gardeners do not understand what to do with such a disaster.

However, our grandfathers and great-grandfathers resisted frosts, and quite successfully. And we should not give up.

First of all, it is necessary to find out how long the frost will last, and how low the temperatures will fall, especially the pre-shade, when it's the coldest. Help is provided by the Hydro-Meteorological Center.

If the frosts are short, then it is possible to fight their influence by setting up screens around the trees and bushes on the windward side. Or by rolling plants with light white geotextiles (spunbond, agrospane) with a density of up to 30 g / m².

If long-term frosts are assumed, it is necessary to try to reduce the growth activity of plants. Most likely, somewhere nearby you can find the remaining snowdrifts of the faded snow. It must be dragged to the plants and spread evenly in the projection of the crowns *.

* In most plants, the dimensions of the underground and aboveground parts are balanced, and the projection of the crown determines the zone of growth of the root system.

In the first half of May at a depth of 0,4-0,5 m usually there is still frozen ground - the plants work only the upper roots. Snow scattered around the trunks reduces their activity. Suction of water stops and feeds it up the trunk. In the absence of snow, it can be replaced with straw mats or any covering material that prevents the penetration of heat into the soil - the cold from the un-ground layer of soil will also slow down the motility of the roots.

The traditional way to protect plants from frost is smoke. Especially it is effective in windless weather and allows to raise the temperature at 2-4 ° С. In the evenly located braziers, which can be made from old metal cans, troughs or sheets of iron, burn raw wood, peat, straw, sawdust - you need to achieve minimum combustion and maximum smoke.

In addition to the smoke "coat", plants can also be protected by sprinkling the crown with cold water, although with a slight decrease in temperature below 0 °. And when watering with cold water under the root, the cold from the frozen layers of the earth rises faster in the upper layers of the soil.

Especially dangerous are frosts when plants bloom. From the end of April, the majority apple trees, then they are joined by cherry and plum.

Pear blossoms usually later and do not beat with frost. Sometimes, early varieties of currants and gooseberries may suffer from cold weather.

Of the ornamental plants, frosts can affect cherry, early-springing species and varieties of spiraea, almonds trilobate, hydrangeas, some thermophilic conifers (yew, cypress, rhodocarpus).

In experiments with frost-resistant varieties of apple trees, it was observed that when sprinkling flowering plants with cold water before night frost, the flowers did not fall off, even if they were covered with thin ice by morning. But with normal varieties it is better not to risk and with significant frosts it is advisable to arrange smoke.

Often asked: why, when it would seem, abundant flowering, the fruit does not become tied up?

The answer is one: absence of pollinators.

In most even self-pollinated fruit crops, fruits are better tied when pollinated by pollen of other varieties. For example, if you plant two copies of one type of apple, plum or cherry, then the fruit will be tied less compared to if different varieties were planted. And, for example, to get a good harvest of cluster honeysuckle, alternating joint planting of two or three varieties is a necessity. But grade is not everything.

It is important who will carry the pollen. In the overwhelming majority of cases, bees and bumblebees make it, less often flies, buzzers, moths and other insects. At low temperatures, the flying activity of the pollinators decreases, and the unbound flowers fall off.

Of course, fruit crops do not practice artificial pollination, as in tomatoes, pepper and melons. But a positive result can be achieved by shaking trees and bushes. To do this, the crown of a flowering plant is neatly wrapped with light geotextiles and shaken.

Then the geotextile is removed and shaken out over another flowering plant. Of course, such a time-consuming procedure is unacceptable in large gardens. But it is noted that in the absence of pollinators with the artificial transfer of pollen, it is possible to achieve more than a third of the fruits, which is better than nothing. Therefore, in small garden areas, where only a few fruit trees grow, this method of pollination is easy to implement.

A sharp drop in temperature from the middle to the end of May provokes the activity of pests and pathogenic fungi. As soon as the day sun warms up, various moths begin to lay eggs intensively in the fruit, and larvae and caterpillars increase the rate of eating the plant mass.

It is noted that as the temperature decreases, the rate of maturation of spores of pathogenic fungi increases, which rapidly develop on wet frostbitten leaves and plant stems.

Powdery mildew, rust, scab, black rot etc. - the usual support of diseases caused by rapid cooling.

The gardener should remember that in May, it is necessary to conduct preventive treatment of plants from pests and diseases. Even if there are no pesticides at hand, plants can be sprayed with a solution of ash ash with a brush or broom - 1 glass on 1 l of water. It is advisable to sprinkle ash trimmings with ashes.

May is the month when plant propagation is carried out vegetatively, that is, by cuttings that are rooted or planted. With the spread of fruit and ornamental lianas (grapes, actinidia, Schisandra, liana honeysuckle, hydrangeas and clematis) are increasingly using the method of vegetative reproduction by rooting horizontal layers.

In most fruit crops cuttings are cut in winter, in February, length 20-30 cm, so that they have three or four well-formed buds.

Cuttings are harvested in a bundle, wrapped in geotextiles that let in air and buried in snow.

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Reference by topic: Spring in the country - work to be done in the greenhouse, vegetable garden and garden

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In early May cuttings can be soaked in a solution of heteroauxin, rootstock, zircon, potassium permanganate or other rooting stimulant (more about growth regulators).

The soil for rooting is taken loose, fertile, with the inclusion of 30% sand in its composition.

For the prevention of rot, it is useful to add approximately 10% charcoal to the soil. Cuttings stuck obliquely, zaglubiv on 1 / 3 in the prepared beds - in most plants, the first adventitious roots appear from the base of the lower kidney.

Over the garden a greenhouse is built, or each one or a group of two or four cuttings are covered with micro-cans, which can easily be made from plastic bottles with a cut-off bottom - a screw-on lid that is convenient to regulate the airing of such hotbeds.

For inoculation, cuttings are used freshly. The method of grafting with a kidney has proved to be successful - ocularization. For rapid growth and successful development of the grafted plant, the kidney should be grafted on the seedling of the rootstock, which is cut over the graft, then the whole root force feeds only the bud-graft. The first fructification of fruit plants thus planted should be expected in three to five years, depending on the type of rootstock.

Much more common is the situation when someone visiting a site of their friends and marveling at some beautiful fruit tree or taste of fruits, certainly wants to have such plants on their site.

The easiest way to write down the name of the variety you like and then purchase a grafted seedling. But sometimes the name is lost, or the plant was acquired without a name, and maybe passed on by inheritance from previous owners of the site. Yes, and having the name of the variety, you can not always be sure that the same seedling was purchased.

Quickly get a favorite plant helps vaccinate the cuttings in the crown of an already existing tree. It is unlikely that the owners of the plant you like will object if you ask to cut off some twigs about 5 mm in thickness. The main thing is to have an adult tree growing on your site.

From left to right:

Cuttings stuck obliquely into the prepared bed.

From plastic bottles with a cut bottom you can make microparticles.

The technology of grafting by copulating with an oblique cut and an oblique cut with a tongue.

Plant usually on a plant of the same species: apple tree on apple tree, pear on pear tree. Pine-well cultures (same pear) it is permissible to vaccinate and rowan. Sometimes the enthusiastic horticulturist can plant on one adult tree cuttings of several varieties that bear fruit at different times.

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Subject reference: Inoculation of several varieties on one tree - we grow a rational garden on a small plot

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There are different ways to inoculate cuttings. The simplest is an oblique cut (copulation). On the tree, choose a branch with the thickness of the existing drill stem, so that it can be reached by standing on the ground.

It should be borne in mind that the sap flow is more active in the eastern and southern parts of the crown. Therefore, it is better to plant cuttings of early ripening varieties.

On the western side of the crown, late-ripening varieties are planted. On the north side, the vaccine is not meaningful.

Mark the place of the cut about 10 cm from the fork. If there are kidneys on this segment, then they need to be broken.

The branch is wiped with a cloth or a napkin. Just wipe the cut-privo - carefully, without damaging the kidneys. Do not use on living tissues disinfectant compounds - alcohol, cologne. But they can wipe the vaccine knife. At hand should be: a piece of pakli or razmochalennoy hemp rope or a tape of geotextiles with a width of 3-5 cm; a piece of fine twine, an adhesive plaster, an insulating tape or an adhesive tape. You may need garden var. Inoculate better in the morning or in cloudy, but not rainy weather.

In the intended place, remove the branch of the tree with a long oblique cut-for a diameter of the branch 5 mm the length of the cut must be at least 3 cm. In the same way, cut the graft and attach it to the branch-rootstock.

The parts of the graft are rubbed lightly against each other in order to squeeze out the air, and juice is extracted from the rootstock, and, with your fingers, apply a bundle of pakli, bast, or geotextile.

Strapping in a few turns is fixed with a string, adhesive plaster or tape. The use of tape or tape makes it possible to protect the vaccine against wetting. With the same purpose, the winding can be covered with a polyethylene film or coated with a garden sander.

When more thick cuttings are inoculated, a modified graft with an oblique cut (copulation with a tongue) is used. In an inexperienced horticulturist on thin cuttings, this vaccination may not work.

The cut is made more steep - on a branch with a diameter of 0,8-1 cm its length can be 2 cm.

Next, on the stock and prievoe, make a shallow longitudinal cleft along the oblique cut with the knife and insert the parts of the graft into each other. Strongly wind the place of connection with a bundle of tows or a bundle to compress the formed slits. With deep splits or cracking that go beyond the graft, they are strung together with a string and coated with a garden gauze. The whole inoculation is wrapped, as in simple copulation.

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See also: Garden in the spring - basic care and work

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The vaccination is considered successful when the kidneys are opened on the cuticle-rootstock. Strapping is removed, and the place of the cut for protection is coated with garden fume.

Fruit garden lianas - actinidia, lemongrass - have already firmly established themselves on the sites in the central strip of Russia. Recently, they are joined by grapes, in which several frost-resistant root-root varieties are bred.

Decorative lianas - honeysuckle-caprylic, lianate hydrangea, Girlish grapes, clematis etc. - also frequent guests in the suburban areas.

Their vegetative reproduction resembles reproduction by horizontal layers, which is often used for gooseberry and currant.

A long branch or a vine is laid horizontally in a previously excavated trench with a depth of about 5 cm, pinned or something pressed, without violating the integrity of the kidneys, sprinkled with fertile soil mixed in half with sand. It is good to add approximately 10% charcoal to this mixture. Aditional roots appear from the base of the kidneys, and by autumn a number of ingrained shoots form on the horizontal lap. A little acceleration of the process of formation and rooting of shoots can be done by removing the crustal ring with a width of 1 cm at the base of the line a month after it was laid.

Liane in the same way rooted and cut off the whip.

Honeysuckle-honeysuckle, girlish grapes take root without difficulty. Fruit creepers are more whimsical - they should be regularly watered with solutions of hormones. Use heteroauxin, root-wine, zircon - once every two weeks. And the soil here should not dry up.

With successful rooting in May-June next year over the trench, young overwintering shoots will appear. At this time, it is possible to separate the separator from the mother's bush. Gently digging the soil between the shoots, assess the development of the root system and cut the branch-whip - now there are several independent rooting cuttings. With well-developed roots, these plants are planted on permanent sites. If the root system is underdeveloped, the plants are left in place, watered, fertilized and fed.

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See also: How to help the winter to winter

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May - note to the gardener and gardener:

• Abundant flowering is a good indicator of how the plant survived the winter.
• Sharp frosts can not only destroy young leaves, but also cause tears in the bark - frosts.
• If the nighttime temperatures stay above + 5 ° C for several days, the sap flow begins at the fruit trees.
• Frozen kidneys are easily affected by putrefactive fungi.
• Smoke - one of the traditional ways to protect the garden from frost.
  Smoke allows you to raise the temperature by 2-4 ° C - this is usually enough to preserve the already opened flowers.
• With the onset of spring frosts, first of all, it is necessary to slow down the growth of plants. If there is still snow left on the site, it is transferred to the plants.
• With a slight drop in air temperature below 0 ° C, plants are sprayed with water.
• Cuttings cut in autumn, after the cessation of sap flow.
  In winter they are kept in a cold room or buried under snow. To accelerate the rooting of the cuttings for a while warm in the sun.
• Ice-bound young shoots are better tolerated by sharp spring frosts.
• For good splicing, the cuts for the root and prieva must be the same.
• When propagating a horizontal branch line branch of a bush or whip lianas are placed in a shallow trench and fixed with pins, bent from the wire.

Author: S. Batov, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences. Sci., a very famous author in the field of garden and dacha subjects.

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