Flowers of hazel grouses - planting, care and reproduction of flowers
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Fritillary FLOWERS: SMALL, KAMCHATKA, YELLOW, BIG AND OTHERS
Bulbous after the winter bloom the very first. If we consider also the fact that they, in the opinion of many gardeners and the most beautiful of spring flowers, then their planting for a gardener is a matter of honor. Most often our cottages and lots adorn everyone with well-known tulips and Daffodils, hazel grouse flowers can be seen much less often. Let's try to correct this annoying omission.
Small fowl small
Out of almost a hundred species of hazel grouse living in nature, only two are grown in gardens and parks. The smaller, only up to 30 cm high, chess grouse (Fritillaria meleagris) with its tilted head resembles a snowdrop, only the bell of a flower is larger, up to 2,5 cm. However, the original appearance of the logo species prompted nerds to the name of the whole genus - hazel grouse, or fritillaria (Fritillaria).
Hazel grouse means "pockmarked", and the Latin name comes from the word "tritillus" - a chessboard.
Each petal is laid out in clear checkered squares: one cell is lilac-violet, the other is white. This is the most common color, but varieties with white, red-violet, white-pink, with dark, almost purple flowers are bred.
The hazel grouse (pictured) blooms in May, after flowering, long and narrow bluish leaves will last until June, and then die, as in other spring-springing bulbous.
Large hazel grouse
Another, a large hazel grouse, is not at all like the original but modest fellow. Its growth reaches almost a meter height and ends with a tuft of bright green leaves, under which a luxurious crown of 9-12 flowers unfolds. Large bells, up to 6 cm in diameter, look downwards. Within each cup of the flower is a dark, almost black spot and a bunch of large stamens that fall below the edge of the petals. When this plant first got to Europe, its flowers were compared to the crown. The plant has received the name of the hazel grouse emperor (Fritillaria imperialis). In the gardens, two forms of this magnificent plant are grown: with orange and yellow flowers.
Camel grouse
On the Pacific coasts of Eurasia and North America grows Kamchatka (F. Camtsschatcensis), its bulbs not only served as food for the indigenous population, but also were the subject of intercontinental trade. In Kamchatka, it was called a "saran", brought to the American continent, it was given a local name-north-western rice. " Ryabchik Kamchatsky introduced into the culture, although it is rare. This plant is of medium height, with flowers dark bronze or purple, with a weakly expressed chess pattern.
See also: Lilies - planting and care, varieties and species
Hazelnut yellow
In the Caucasus, in the mountains, the hazel grouse grows yellow (F. Collina). A mottled pattern is slightly visible on the petals. This and other small species of hazel grouse are good in rock gardens, in stony gardens, on the steps of stony walls. Here you can use the hazel grouse and hazel grouse Russian. Impressive hazel grouses look good when planted in groups in front of a bush, between large trees.
Reproduction of hazelnuts by bulbs
Bulbs are planted from late August to mid-September to a depth of 15-20 cm - for large and 10-12 cm - for small. In winter, the place where the grouse bulbs are planted is covered with dry peat crumb. In the spring, when the grouse fades, the peduncles are cut, leaving half the length of the stem with leaves, otherwise the bulb will stop developing.
In one place grouse can be grown for three years. Bulbs are excavated when their leaves dry. The bulbs are separated by a baby, sorted. Cover scales quickly dry up, so before planting, they are stored in peat moss or moss in a cool place.
Reproduction of grouse seed
This process is more troublesome. Seeds are sown to a depth of 1-2 cm immediately after harvest, then seedlings will appear in the spring of next year. At the end of the first growing season, large seedlings are planted at a distance of 6-7 cm, to a depth of S cm, another year later - at a distance of 15 cm and a depth of about 10 cm. If the seeds were sown in spring, then seedlings can be expected only after a year, again in the spring. With seed propagation, flowering will occur only 2-4 years after planting.
To the note to the floriculturist:
The hazel grouses are quite demanding on growing conditions. They need well-lit places. But in the open places of the sun can be too much, and plants "burned". Best hazel grouse will grow if there is a slight penumbra.
They do not like the hazel grouses of soaked, heavily waterlogged soils. For good growth and flowering, a very fertile, loose, water-and air-permeable soil is needed, a moderate and uniform moistening.
Preparing the soil for bulb planting, make compost, up to 25 kg on 1 m2, depending on the fertility of the soil. If the soil is heavy, loamy or clay, add 1,5 sand buckets to 1 m2. It's good to add peat.
See also: Amaranth - growing and care
For your reference - useful properties
Ryabchiki are interesting not only as highly decorative, but also as food and medicinal plants. Bulbs of some species of grouse are used in Tibetan and Chinese medicine as a remedy for anemia, tuberculosis, and viral diseases. Local healers know the plants well, because the bulbs of some hazel grouses are poisonous.
FLOWERS GABBERS - GROWING, PLANTING AND CARE. TIPS AND FEEDBACK
Grouse all over the country
In April, they continue to give us bright colors of primroses. And from afar, the glossy satin leaves of the imperial hazel grouse attract the eye. And now their floral "crowns" are already blossoming - a bewitching beauty!
From the bear
Two years ago, in August, planted the first bulbs of specific fritillaria in order to rid the beds of the bear. It is believed that the specific smell of this representative of the flora repels pests. But after the first spring season, I fell in love with the spectacular plant so much that I acquired planting material of varietal imperial grouse: saturated with red Rubra, exquisitely lemon Raddeana, original striped coloring Striped beauty and sunny yellow lutea. In autumn, planting beds are mulched with bedding from the house, with hay, so the grouse crests germinating in early spring have to be cleaned of mulch, helping them to get to the surface. In our region, flowering begins in the second half of April. Some varieties, for example, Lutea, are prone to fasciation (splicing) of shoots, as a result of which up to 12 flowers bloom on one stem at a time (photo 1). While on the usual species of imperial hazel grouse - 6 orange flowers (photo 2).
In the summer - at rest
In early June, plant shoots turn yellow, signaling the beginning of the dormant period. I dig bulbs in July annually. Before storing for storage, I withstand 30 minutes in a solution of systemic fungicide and dried.
I store in a well-ventilated room at temperatures up to +30 degrees, in cardboard boxes, spread out in one layer. I cut the damaged areas to a healthy tissue and lubricate the drug "Maxim" (according to instructions).
And back to the garden
In August, with the appearance of roots on the bottom, I proceed to planting bulbs. Planted at 2-3 their heights: if planted too shallow or, conversely, deep, hazel grouses may not bloom. With a deepened landing, the risk of rotting of the bulbs also increases.
Some gardeners are sometimes afraid to plant imperial hazel grouse because of an allegedly unpleasant odor. I can say that the main culprit - the bulb - reliably hides its feature in the ground, and the aerial part of the plant during a period of windy weather gives only a light garlic aroma that does not interfere with enjoying the beauty of these majestic flowers.
© Author: Tatyana PONOMAREVA, Stary Oskol, Belgorod Region Author photo
Plants, like miniature trees, are strewn with elegant bells in May. No wonder the hazel grouse is called the "paradise tree", the "royal crown."
- Do you want the same beauty to your site?
- Hazel grouse loves light and fertile land, so before planting she brought rotted manure into the soil (5 kg per 1 sq. M). Some of the flowers were planted in the spring (the bulbs were previously germinated in March in bulk pots with a nutrient substrate, and in the first ten days of May they were planted on a garden bed).
But the landing is still traditional in September. I prepare the holes in advance with a depth of at least 25 cm and a width of 35 cm. I pour sand on the bottom, put a peg in the middle (then I attach the stem to it). The distance between plants of low-growing varieties is 10-20 cm, tall - 20-30 cm.
Care Basics
- In late April and early May in 10 l of humus solution (1:12) I dilute 1 tbsp. complex flower fertilizer and nitrophosphate and water the hazel grouse.
- In mid-May, during flowering, I scatter wood ash under the bushes with a thin layer, after moistening the soil. And after flowering, for the development of bulbs under loosening and watering, I bring in superphosphate and potassium sulfate (1 tsp per plant).
Watering the hazel grouse rarely, but plentifully, the handsome men at best will refuse to bloom from an excess of moisture, and at worst their bulbs will rot. But flowers do not like prolonged drying of the soil. After watering, mulch the earth with humus to preserve moisture.
It's time for a transplant
I dig up adult plants every 2-3 years after the leaves die completely (approximately in mid-July). I dry the bulbs in the sun for 3-4 hours, then I sort them out and put them in cardboard boxes for storage. And at the beginning of autumn I plant in the ground in the same place where they grew, pre-fertilizing the area with humus.
© Author: Anna ROMANOVA, Orekhovo-Zuevo. Photo by the author
Royal grouse is very moody, so you can’t keep the bulbs in the ground for two years (especially three): they completely die off. It is better to dig and transplant them after a year (according to the technology described by the author).
© Author: Mikhail NAUMOV, leading agronomist of the Botanical Garden of the Belarusian State Agricultural Academy, Gorki
GRAIN CHESS - FRITILLARIN
Chess hazel grouse, or fritillarin, is a perennial bulbous plant, rather unpretentious. The unusual color of the petals really resembles a chessboard. Moreover, the flowers are from white-purple to lilac-brown.
The height of the culture is up to 30 cm. It blooms in late April-early May for 3 weeks (depending on the weather). It multiplies easily and gives a lot of babies (small bulbs).
Grouse prefers partial shade, well-drained, fertile and moderately moist soil. After flowering, I remove all flower stalks, do not touch the leaves - they provide nutrition to the bulb. I regularly loosen and weed the soil around the plant. I feed in spring and autumn with mineral fertilizers - granular or liquid (according to the instructions). I do not cover for the winter, but I add peat with a layer of 2-3 cm.
Useful feature
The grouse bulbs have a specific smell, similar to that of garlic, which scares away rodents. Therefore, flower growers often plant a plant in vegetable beds.
Autumn landing
Three conditions
Grouse can be planted from late August to mid-September:
- 3-4 weeks before the first frost;
- if the soil temperature at a depth of 15 cm is not less than + 7-10 degrees;
- the air warms up during the day to + 10-15 degrees, at night - not lower than +5 degrees. Before planting, I disinfect the bulbs in a weak (pink) solution of potassium permanganate or the drug "Maxim" (according to the instructions), holding for 30 minutes. I dust it with ash or crushed charcoal. So that moisture does not accumulate under the scales, when planting, I put the bulbs in the hole on their side and sprinkle with sand 2-3 cm.I fill the hole with light soil: I mix peat, black soil, humus (2: 2: 1).
Bulbs out of season
If you bought the hazel grouse planting material at the wrong time, it is better to immediately place it in a container with moist peat and put it in a dark place with a temperature of up to + 10 degrees. In the spring, in April-May, plant in fertile soil to a depth of 5 cm.
© Author: Svetlana KONONOVICH, Minsk. Photo by Lilia APAROVICH
THERE ARE NO TOO MUCH GRUSSIANS – DESCRIPTION AND TIPS FOR GROWING
The genus of hazel grouse (Fritillaria) is so many-sided and diverse that it is difficult to believe in their close relationship. Each of its species is a bright individuality with unique characteristics, both in appearance and in development. The flowering is so original, and some are also sophisticated, that you can admire them like the Japanese do with sakura. Therefore, no matter how many hazel grouse grow in the garden, there will not be many of them.
BOTANICAL PORTRAIT OF FILLIUM
In nature, hazel grouse grow in the temperate zone of Europe, Asia and North America, but most come from Asia Minor. Depending on the place of origin of the species, hazel grouse can be divided into two groups. The former grow in a humid environment, along river valleys, among bushes, in the forest. Among them - checkerboard hazel grouse (F. meleagris). Russian (F. rulhenica). Ussuri (F. ussuriensis), whorled (F. verticil lata), checkerboard (P. meleagroides), mountain (F. montana), cirrhosa (F. cirrhosa) etc. They have a rather high and thin stem (40-80 cm), grow well in partial shade, some species have antennae that cling to the branches of a bush. The climate of the middle zone with humid summers is quite suitable for them.
Another group unites large species of hazel grouse, originating from dry and hot regions of southern Europe and Asia. The most famous and spectacular representatives are the imperial (F. imperials), Persian (F. persica) and Radde (F. raddeana). All of them stop blooming due to excess moisture and die. This group also includes the miniature Mikhailovsky hazel grouse (F. michailovskyi). It is native to Asia, so its bulb is not warm enough to set flower buds.
The development of all hazel grouse is united by the fact that they are all perennial, bulbous and bloom only in the spring - from late April to late May. In summer, the above-ground part dies off.
Bulbs of large species of hazel grouse should be dug up and replanted only when they go into a dormant state (that is, when the foliage of a healthy plant begins to turn yellow). Small bulbs lose moisture quickly, so they should be planted immediately after digging.
Grouse bulbs very vulnerable. The slightest damage to succulent, unprotected scales during digging can lead to their death. The same result is obtained when the bulbs dry out or mold appears on them during summer storage.
All types of hazel grouse, even those that need moisture, cannot tolerate stagnant water and need well-drained, loose, neutral soil. It is best to use coarse river sand and humus (10-15 kg/sq.m.) as a leavening agent. If there is no such amount of organic matter, it is necessary to apply a complete mineral fertilizer with microelements.
The planting depth of the bulbs depends on the density of the soil and is equal to S-8 cm for species with small bulbs and 15-30 cm for large ones.
Large-flowered hazel grouse are excellent solos on the lawn, small-flowered ones are good in a mixborder, on rocky hills.
EMPEROR OF THE SPRING GARDEN
The most spectacular and popular representative of this genus is the imperial (Turkish) hazel grouse. Its thick and strong stem, 1 m high (and sometimes higher), is decorated on top with a bunch of narrow leaves, like an emperor’s crown. Beneath this tuft hang large, bell-shaped flowers in a variety of colors, from bright red-orange to all shades of yellow.
Not only the appearance of this hazel grouse is unusual, but also the bulbs: they are very impressive, their weight can reach 0,5 kg. and sometimes more. Each bulb has a through hole - a hole left from the peduncle. In a large bulb the hole is huge, in a young one (if it has bloomed) it is small, in a non-flowering one it is practically absent. In autumn, inside this hole, in its lower part, several buds form, from which new shoots grow in the spring of next year, around which young bulbs will again form.
It is recommended to dig up imperial hazel grouse every year after flowering.. Only if the planting site has been chosen well and the soil is well prepared, then the plants need not be replanted for 1-2 years. Until autumn planting, the bulbs are stored in a dark, dry, ventilated place with a daytime temperature of at least 25°C. During this time, the bulbs will warm up and begin to produce new roots. This is a signal that it is time to plant them in the soil. You don’t have to stand on ceremony with long grown roots. After damage, the remaining part of the root becomes thick and, most importantly, the root begins to branch. You need to take care of them if you are late with planting. For complete rooting and adaptation of hazel grouse in the soil, it takes about 40 days. The optimal planting time in the middle zone is from the first half of August to the end of September - beginning of October (as weather permits).
At the bottom of the hole with loosened soil, first pour a handful of wood ash, then a layer of clean river sand and place the onion on this “cushion”. And to prevent water from getting into the hole, the onion is placed on the sand sideways, practically lying down, sprinkled with a layer of sand on top, and then with soil.
In the spring, immediately after the petals fall off, you need to break out the ovaries. The plant spends too much effort on their formation. This negatively affects the growth of the bulbs, and therefore the flowering in the next season.
The bulbs of the imperial hazel grouse emit a pungent, specific smell; mice and rats do not like it. Therefore, there is a guarantee that they will not damage the hazel grouse bulbs, unlike tulips, which are a real treat for rodents. So it makes sense to store them and plant them nearby.
THE MAGIC OF SMALL-FLOWERED
Growing small-bulbed hazel grouse is much easier. Their natural habitat is closer to the soils and climate of the middle zone. These hazel grouse do not require special conditions; they can grow in the same place for many years without the need for annual digging. However, periodic replanting (once every 4-5 years) of overgrown plants is still necessary, since with an increase in the number of bulbs in the nest, the feeding area decreases, flowering weakens, and the bulbs become smaller. You can plant them even during flowering or immediately after it, without allowing the bulbs to dry out after digging.
Flowers small-bulbed hazel grouse are mostly solitary, elegant in shape, have a white, reddish-brown, purple color, which, for example, in the chess grouse, can alternate, resembling a chessboard in its pattern. And in the Mikhailovsky hazel grouse they look like colorful skirts. The ever-blooming charming bells and thin, graceful leaves with a bluish color are impressive in any composition.
Like all early-blooming bulbous plants, fritillaries are susceptible to frost damage, but they are well adapted to temperature fluctuations. In the morning you look - the flowers have drooped, and the sun rises, warms them up - and they come to life.
© Author: Anna Vasilyeva, experienced florist Photo of the author and Lyudmila Mogilevich
GARDEN LANDING - VIDEO
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
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- Bulbous flowers and plants - from spring to late autumn
- Letter (photo) and grass and flower, medicinal properties
- Repeated flowering of irises - how to achieve it and varieties for it
- Early germination of bulbous flowers - what to do?
- Garden Tradescantia (photo) planting, care and reproduction
- Growing marsh iris (photo) - care and reproduction
- Spring flowerbed - planting and decoration, color selection
- Transplanting lilies - put them in order after a difficult summer
- Flowers for a monochrome flower garden (in monochrome style) - white, red or yellow
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My first hazel grouse did not bloom for six years. But now I have already learned to "manage" their flowering.
I dig up the bulbs in the summer, when the aerial part turns yellow. I air for a week in a place protected from the sun. Then I put it in a hot, dry place - on the top shelf in the kitchen (temperature - + 27 ... + 35 degrees). It is important that during the storage period the bulbs shrink in size by 2-3 times (this is how the future flower bud is laid).
I plant hazel grouse at the end of August so that they take root before the onset of winter cold. I choose a place for landing higher, warm, with light partial shade. Bulb planting depth is three times the height of the bulb itself. I add phosphorus-potassium fertilizer (1 tsp) to the bottom of the hole and cover it with a layer of sand so that the bulb does not rot. In the spring, I feed nitrogen on seedlings.
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Recently, climbing into the attic, where I always keep bulbous plants after digging, I discovered that the hazel grouses have turned into spiders. Plant urgently!
The imperial hazel grouse is the very first to take root even in the air and in the complete absence of humidity - it is dry and hot in the attic. I have three varieties in my collection, but only one bloomed in the spring.
Therefore, when buying, I advise you to pay attention to the size of the bulb, because flowering will depend on this. To be guaranteed to see it next year, the diameter of the bulb must be at least 6-7 cm (preferably 8-10). Smaller specimens will not form flowers - they still need to ripen. And you shouldn't buy planting material that has ulcers, cracks, signs of mold or decay.
Important nuances
The imperial hazel grouse is planted only in autumn, optimally from the second half of August to the end of September, so that the plants have time to take root before the onset of frost.
For each bulb, I dig a hole 30 × 30 cm in size.At the bottom I pour sand with a layer of 3-5 cm - drainage, since the hazel grouse does not tolerate stagnant water.
I prepare a nutrient mixture from humus or compost, garden soil, sand 2: 3: 1) and a handful of wood ash (for additional feeding and soil deoxidation). When I was digging out hazel grouses at the beginning of summer, I accidentally “crumbled” one of the bulbs with a shovel. Just the one that bloomed well. The experts on bulbous plants I knew told me to throw it away - they say, there will be no sense anyway, but my hand did not rise. Over the summer, the "sufferer" healed and also let in at the time of planting, at least small, but roots - for sure she will live on.
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In my flower garden grow less tall than the imperial, but very cute grouse brothers: chess and Mikhailovsky.
The bushes of the first species reach a height of up to 40 cm, on each peduncle 1-3 bell of lilac-purple color with a characteristic pattern of cells bloom, the leaves are narrow and long, the bulbs are small. Chess players bloom in May. I take care of them, as well as other bulbs: periodically feed with mineral fertilizers, water in a drought, gently loosen the soil. After flowering, the foliage dries up, and the plant goes to rest until next spring.
Fritillaria Mikhailovsky blooms earlier in April. In height it is even lower than chess (up to 25 cm), the leaves are similar to tulip leaves, but smaller, a pair of yellow bells with a purple border open on the stem. Kids grow up to avoid jamming on high beds. In spring, I sprinkle a well-rotted compost under the bushes.
Nadezhda LISYUTINA, p. Rognedino, Bryansk region. Photo by the author and Tatyana SANCHUK
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In any case, you can not grow grouse on the site. The bulbs, planted in the autumn, did not shoot for two consecutive years. What could be the cause of failure?
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The hazel grouses are most vulnerable compared to other plants of this family. The slightest damage to juicy, unprotected scales during excavation can lead to their death. The same result is the drying of bulbs or the appearance of mold on them during summer storage.
Often, flower growers make mistakes during planting. It is better to do this no later than mid-October, so that the low temperature and humidity of the soil, observed at a later time, do not provoke the decay of the bulbs. For the same reason, it is very important that there is no water stagnation at the site, it is better to choose elevations with a low groundwater level.
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I like the hazel hens of the emperor for his unpretentiousness. In the second half of September, in loose soil I plant bulbs (to a depth of 4-5 of their diameters). The distance between the plants is about 20 cm from each other.
The site I choose is sunny, high so that groundwater does not accumulate in the ground and the bulbs do not rot. You can artificially raise the flower bed, pouring a little river sand or earth. To small bulbs grow well and develop, I plant them in clean compost. Waiting for flowering will have two, or even three years. But it's worth it!
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Tell me, do you need to dig out the royal hazel groves after flowering? Does the hazel grouse refer to them with the coloring of flowers in the form of a chessboard? What are the hazel bulbs afraid of and how to store them? When is it better to plant in a flower garden?
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The genus of hazel grouses includes 179 species. Peduncles of the hazel grouse of the imperial reach a height of 1,5 m, and drooping yellow or orange flowers are like bells. Inflorescence is decorated on top of a bundle of narrow green leaves.
Every year you need to dig out large bulbs of the hazel grouse of the imperial, small bulbs are enough to dig out once in 2 year. Do this in the middle - the end of June, when the foliage begins to turn yellow. Dry bulbs are removed from the bulbs, washed in a solution of potassium permanganate and dried. Store the excavated bulbs in a dark, dry place at a temperature of no more than 30 ° C. At the end of August on the bulbs formed roots and a new sprout, at this time it's time to plant them. Before planting, the roots should be cut off, but if you are too late for planting, they need to be retained. Plant hazelnut bulbs of the imperial at the end of summer to a depth of 20-25 see the land mulched with peat. In the snow-less winters, they are additionally covered with straw or lapnik.
On the petals of the hazel-grouse flower, alternate dark and light spots of a clear geometric pattern. There are two variants of coloring - brown-maroon and white-yellow. The height of peduncles 10-35 cm, on each 1-2 flower appears. The bulbs are small, with a diameter of 2-6 cm, oblong, slightly flattened. Every year, they are not necessary to dig out, but they are expanding rapidly, they begin to press each other, so they dig out and plant them once in 3-4. Do this in August, with the bulbs preferably planted immediately after digging to a depth of 7-15 cm, depending on their size. If necessary, they can be stored in a cool place, in moist sand, but not for long. This species is one of the most unpretentious.
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Spring flowers are adorable, but in most are small in height.
Only the imperial hazel grouses proudly raise a whole bouquet of bells-flowers high above the flower carpet, crowned with a crown of green leaves. I gathered in my garden an impressive collection of these handsome men: with red, orange, yellow, cream flowers.
Like most spring flowers, hazel grouses are bulbous plants. Only their bulbs are huge, the size of a male fist and weighing up to 0,5 kg. In the spring of them, the peduncle develops very quickly. After flowering, when the flower stalk dries, I dig the bulbs, dry them and plant them again in the ground in early September, simultaneously with tulips. And in general, the care for hazel grouse is the same as for tulips: they do not like fresh organic matter, stagnation of water, they can suffer from rot.
In most varieties of grouse, the bulb is divided annually into 2 children, so it is easy to multiply the variety you like. Some varieties still form a small baby. True, a plant grown from a flower will blossom only through 3-4 years.
The only drawback of hazel grouse is the smell. Some of them have an aroma, frankly, for an amateur. And the bulbs secrete substances that inhibit other flowers. Therefore, the rest of the floral "retinue" is best placed at a respectful distance from the "emperor".
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The large, stately grouse imperial is a notable plant in your garden. To make it look decent, plant it in a place protected from the wind.
And that the stem does not break, tie it to the support, for example, to small pegs or iron props, which are sold in the garden center.
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This year, on my hazel grouses, someone severely tore off the leaves and a few buds. What is this pest and how to deal with it?
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What you describe looks like damage to the onion cracker. These are leaf beetles, the larvae of which inflict heavy damage, eating leaves, buds and even the stems of plants of the lily family, adult beetles have a bright red body and a black head. They are the first to appear on crops in the spring, leaving the wintering grounds. If you do not take any protective measures, then from May to June will have to deal with the larvae, which are very voracious and can only leave hemp from grouse or other lily cultures. Therefore, when red beetles appear on the site, one must proceed to a mechanical method of struggle, namely, the collection of insects by hands.
Insecticides can be used "Sonnet", since it has a long period of action and suppresses the production of offspring. Good results are also given by preparations of "Agar", "Confidor", "Actellik".
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FROZBIK UNDER THE WINTER
Hazel from the seeds? Have you ever heard of this? But in fact a hazel grouse can be grown from seeds independently. Sow them better fresh and under winter. We sow them in boxes at the end of autumn into a substrate consisting of a mixture of leaf land, sand and peat (in the ratio 3: 1: 1), we leave the boxes in the garden. The first shoots will appear in the spring. They are rather gentle, it is better to pritenyat of the bright sun. In boxes, young plants live 2 a year.
On the third, in early spring, they will need to be dug into the ground and a year later - to be planted in a permanent place.
Seed boxes grow in early summer. In order not to lose seeds, cut the boxes at the moment when their walls begin to lighten. They will ripen at home on the windowsill.
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When to plant grouse
Hazelnuts of hazel grouse can be excavated from the earth when the period of vegetation is fully completed. In this case, you can be sure that they have accumulated a sufficient number of nutrients for the rest period.
Planting material is stored in cool, well ventilated areas. Plant bulbs in the open ground, when they have small roots. Usually this is August or the beginning of September. Know that the bulbs of the hazel hen of the imperial are devoid of protective scales, so do not buy them at late autumn sales. But if for some reason you can not plant the bulbs on time, then in this case you can put their 80 moist peat and store in the refrigerator. If you plant hazel grouses after September, then there is a high probability that next year they will not bloom. Before planting bulbs, they can be disinfected in a solution of potassium permanganate.
Before planting in the soil, it is desirable to add peat or humus. The depth of planting is equal to 2-3 diameters of the bulb itself (about 20-25 cm). At the bottom of the landing hole it is necessary to pour sand or peat, then put the bulb down, spreading the roots, and fill it with soil.
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Why do not hazel grouses? Two years ago I bought the bulbs of the hazel grouse of the imperial. I paid a lot of money for them, but they do not want to bloom. And now there are no buds. How to feed plants to achieve flowering?
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Top dressing is important for grouse, as for all bulbous cultures. The period of growth is short, and during this time they must accumulate strength for flowering next year
But top dressing is not the most important thing when growing grouse. There are cases when they bloom beautifully on poor soils and without top dressing.
The most important thing is to dig up grouse and store them in a warm place in the summer. The fact is that at home, hazel grouse grows in the conditions of a hot, dry summer. The bulb sleeps in dry land. During this period, the laying of flower buds takes place.
At us the summer cool and damp, therefore the artificial period of rest is necessary. At yellowing of leaves (in the beginning of June) bulbs are dug out and cleaned in a dry place. The temperature is desirable not lower than 25 degrees (can be stored on the second floor of the garden house). In September, the bulbs are again planted in the soil. With such agrotechnics hazel grouses bloom every year.
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Why did the red imperial grouse cease to blossom?
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If flowering is missed once, then most likely, the flower bud died in the winter. Although this if happens, it is rare, as a rule, in long, snowless frosts. Most often, the flowering is extinguished due to the fact that the bulb itself is weakening. What is the reason? Ryabchik Imperial easily builds up additional bulbs, as a result, the "living space" for each individual bulb shrinks, and it is no longer able to "pull out" the flower bud. That is why these grouse are advised to dig out every year.
However, for this council there is one more reason. To form a flower bud you need a sufficient amount of not only nutrients, but also summer heat, which we do not always have enough. Therefore, they are also dug out when the stem turns yellow (the first half of June), and stored in a warm dry place until August, when fragile roots start to grow. In principle, do not wait for the roots, plant bulbs in the ground in mid-August, to hold out until September does not make sense.
First, the broken roots will not recover and the grouse will have to grow new ones. Secondly, the bulb may begin to dry up, which, although not deadly, is not necessary and not useful.
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As soon as the snow melts, the growth of the imperial grouse begins (Fritillaria imperialis). Cold spring mornings (up to minus 6 ° C) its young shoots tolerate quite well: although the stems freeze and lean towards the ground, as soon as the sun warms, the plants straighten and come to life. When the hazel grouse starts to grow, water the soil around it abundantly, do not let it dry. After the first leaves appear, feed with phosphoric fertilizers with an interval of 2 weeks until the appearance of flowers. Grouse is rapidly increasing in growth - in two weeks, by the beginning of flowering, it reaches maximum height. High durable stalks-flower stalks, even in the windy part of the plot, do not need to be tied to a support. The roots of hazel grouse often rise to the surface of the soil, do not damage them by loosening. After shedding petals, break the peduncle or remove the ovaries of the seed capsules, otherwise the plant spends a lot of energy. This is reflected in the growth of the bulbs, the root system and the deco-activity in the next season.
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Friars - from seeds
Seed boxes in the grouse ripen in early summer. Until they began to crack, I cut them and keep them at home. And then sow the seeds for the winter in November, because they need stratification for germination. Sowing in a mixture of leaf land, peat and sand (3: 1: 1) into separate boxes, which I then drop in the garden. Spring shoots shade from direct sunlight and water. In the middle of summer, when the leaves die, I stop watering. For the third year in August seedlings from the box are transplanted to a temporary bed. And next spring (April-May) I "move" the grouse to a permanent place in the flower garden.
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When and how best to plant the hazel grouse of the emperor?
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Usually it is done in August, but I plant it in September when white roots appear (2-3 cm). Large - to a depth of up to 30 cm (to avoid curvature of the stem in the wind), smaller - up to 15-20, see. The grouse love the sandy "pillow. And do not necessarily put them on the barrel! I have never observed any decay from the alleged dropping of water into the place of stem separation. In the soil I make a complex fertilizer (according to the instructions). The place for planting is sunny, although the hazel grouse tolerates a slight penumbra. By the way, unlike many florists, I dig out hazel bulbs every year. Digging away from the stem (which usually separates itself), since sometimes the bulbs are located somewhat away from it. Very good, if it is possible to store bulbs at a temperature of + 30 degree, for two months. Such heating promotes better flowering.
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(Why the hazel grouse does not bloom For several years, the hazel grouse is growing in my front garden, there are a few plants, but every year they give me magnificent flowers, but many hazel grouses do not bloom with hazelnuts, although it rises well, develops, new shoots appear.
For guaranteed flowering, grouse needs a little. First, you should plant the bulbs on a raised bed, on a light, humus-rich soil. In a landing pit with a depth of 20 cm, I pour wood ash, sand into the bottom, and then I lay the onion sideways. I sprinkle sand on top and then soil. In the spring, I feed the plant with complex mineral fertilizer. The second - I dig up the hazel grouse bulbs every year. This should be done after the peduncles and leaves have dried. Otherwise, the flowers are ground or flowering will stop altogether. After drying the bulbs in the shade, I put them in a box with sawdust for 1,5 months. Storage temperature 20 °.
In September-October, as soon as the roots appear, I start landing. Autumn and spring frosts, as well as winter frosts hazel grouse is not afraid, but it is better to fall asleep leaves planted with bulbs.
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"Manage" grouse
My first hazel grouses did not bloom for six years. Now I have already learned to "manage" their flowering.
O I choose a place for landing higher, warm, with light partial shade. Bulb depth — the three heights of the bulb itself. I put phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (1 tsp) at the bottom of the hole and fall asleep with a layer of sand so that the bulb does not rot. In the spring, on seedlings, I feed with nitrogen fertilizer. I dig bulbs in the summer when the aboveground part turns yellow. I air the week in a place protected from the sun. Then I put it in a hot, dry place - in the kitchen on the top shelf (temperature - + 27 ... + 35 degrees). It is important that the bulb dries out 2-3 times during the storage period. In this case, the future flower bud is laid. I plant grouse in late August, so that they take root before the onset of winter cold.