Bezrossadny way to grow tomatoes and varieties of tomatoes for him
Seedling for tomatoes is optional
That's what I would like to tell you most about, so it's about seedless growing tomatoes. The trouble is less, but the result is better.
For many years I was acquainted with the breeder P.Ya. Sarayev, tested many varieties of tomatoes and frost-hardened cucumbers in the Ivanovo region and sent him reports on how to behave in one or another of his varieties in my conditions. Almost all correspondence with Pavel Yakovlevich I have preserved.
I was able to taste the following varieties: Stepnyak, Spiridonovsky, Steady, M-8, M-3, M-5, Ground 1, M-23, Abundant, Elk, June, I-2, I-3, Lemonchik, M-16, Pink, Orenburg, Kemerovets , Lesnoy etc.
And also cucumbers: Krepysh, Soldier, Alyosha, Teacher, Cold 25, Grasshopper.
In 1995, Sarayev sent me the seeds of tomato Ground 1 with only one word - "seedling".
And no recommendations for growing - they say, think it yourself. By this time I was already quite an experienced gardener: I was growing grapes and was engaged in seed growing. Prior to Ground 1 grade of tomatoes P.Ya. Saraeva - O-33 and Orenburger - at the beginning of May they kept in my open ground frost to -7 °, only leaves (branches) circled.
He left them in place, fed urea and received the whole harvest on their stepchildren. In the gardener LD. Kaverina from the Moscow Region tomatoes P.Ya. Saraeva in early May, froze to -NNUMX °, she planted seedlings 9 in May in the open ground, the seeds were mine, and neighbors of ordinary varieties of tomatoes, even in hotbeds, were frozen.
And now it's specifically about the uncut method of growing a tomato.
In the third decade of April I make a garden patch in the garden.
Planting tomatoes
Under digging for 1 square. I bring in half a bucket of humus and a half-liter can of ash. The width of the beds is 1.2 m, the length is arbitrary. Along the ridge at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other, I make two deep furrows 10-12 cm deep, spill them with a pink solution of potassium permanganate, and seal the bottom with a roller.
I close the garden bed with a film and do not touch it for a week - let it get warm. After a week I remove the film, make small indentations (about 1-1,5 cm) at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other, depending on the variety.
I sow two tomato seeds there. Seeds are sprinkled with peat or sand.
Do not water! Seeds are pre-etched with a pink solution of potassium permanganate (15-20 min.) And dried until flowability.
Sowing usually spend April 29 - May 2. I close the garden bed again with a film, I pin the edges to the soil. Shoots usually appear on the 7-8th day. I remove the film. Between the furrows along the bed I lay out in 1-2 rows dark-colored polyethylene bottles filled with water, and again cover with a film. When the plants reach the film, I set up small arcs, and the tomatoes themselves are slightly bored with moist soil or laid in furrows and pinned, adding soil to the base of the stem. I water it very rarely: let the roots themselves look for water, in the spring it is enough in the soil.
See also: Seedless tomatoes - a method of growing in various conditions
In summary:
With the seedless cultivation of tomatoes, plants form such a powerful root system that they are not afraid of either drought or disease. They earlier bloom and bear fruit, because the time for rooting during the pickings is not wasted, the plants do not experience stress. On hot days, the film is lifted from the ends and ventilated. Sarajevo tomatoes with no seedlings grow up in growth and bearing all the grown up houses and planted seedlings. The trouble and expenses are less, but the result is better.
In the same way you can grow seedlings tomatoes without hotbeds for sale, for transplant to other places. You can sow seeds not under the film, but under the same polyethylene bottles.
It is possible to obtain supernumerary tomatoes, i.e. to sow the seeds more intensively and form in one stem with a pinch point of growth over the second flower brush, etc.
Tomato varieties for uncultivated cultivation
For the non-irrigational method of cultivation, I currently use frost-resistant varieties P.Ya. Sarayev, for example Resistant - standard, 40 cm, fruits weighing 50-100 g, canning, bush vine, and determinant large-bodied (150-300 g) grades: Ground, May, June, 0-33, Sibiryak, Spring frosts and Orenburgand Pinkth and not saraevsky sort Subarctic 2 - seedling-free, frost-resistant, withstands up to -5 degrees, fruits are dense, weighing 100-200 g, fruiting is extended, yield is 1-2 buckets from a bush, depending on the duration of the growing season.
Tomato variety Wittas (hybrid of the Subarctic 2 with the Raspberry King) - a bush of 1,5 m, the fruits are dense, sweet, weighing up to 300 g, do not stepson. And finally, I grow the largest large-fruited (fruits up to 1 kg) of the frost-resistant varieties - Wild Rose.
On the bush can be 15-18 fruit. Since this tomato is planted very early, ripening occurs in June.
Seedlings of Sarajevo tomatoes are planted in the ground when the leaves begin to blossom on the birch.
I grow a number of varieties of Siberian selection: Pink honey, Honey-sugar, Gulliver, Klusha, Babushkin secret, Tolstushka.
Beaded Tomatoes
In the photo the figures are: 1. Spiridonovsky. 2.June 3. Ground 1.4.Kemerovo. 5.Limonchik. 6. Pink tomato
Author: V. Mukletsov (Ivanovo region)
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- What will we sow: which tomatoes are right for you - review and description
- Growing tomatoes in the Orenburg region - tips for planting and avoiding experienced
- Tomatoes by May
- Growing tomatoes in heat, drought and rain - varieties and care
- 10 the most delicious and simultaneously beautiful varieties of tomatoes
- Increased yield of tomatoes
- Varieties of frost-resistant tomatoes - photo and description (Sarajevo)
- Joint planting of tomatoes - how to compact?
- Tomato variety "Mammoth" - reviews from a gardener-agronomist
- How to help tomato seedlings after frost (growth stimulants)
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I want to share with readers a reckless way of growing tomatoes. Shortly before sowing the seeds in the soil, I prepare an olylate substrate: I ferment fresh sawdust (I undergo a fermentation process). 8 prepared ammonia solution (based on 200 g of saltpeter per 10 l of water) immerse sawdust and leave for 2 weeks in a warm room. It is important that the temperature does not fall below 20 °. I keep the container closed. Before using the sawdust, I recline it on a sieve.
In early April, on a bed prepared since autumn, I dig pits 35-40 cm deep, 40 cm apart and 70 cm between rows. At the bottom of the pit, pour the prepared sawdust substrate with a layer of 10 cm. From above, fill the pit with 2/3 of the volume of nutrient soil, consisting of compost soil, humus, river sand (1: 2: 1). I also add wood ox at the rate of 1 glass per bucket of soil mix 1 tbsp. superphosphate. I lay out dry tomato seeds (five to six pieces) on a moistened surface and sprinkle with 1 cm soil mix. I mark and cover each hole with glass.
Sawdust substrate under cover Provides additional heat and serves as a natural heater. After emergence in each hole, I leave two seedlings. The rest dive into a separate greenhouse. On sunny days, I move the glass to ventilate the seedlings, the temperature under the glass can reach 30 ° and above. I close it at night. 8th of May I clean the glass.
I prefer tall varieties, as I grow up I set stakes, I tie tomatoes to stakes. In the future, the usual care: watering, top dressing, loosening. Tomato bushes grown in a non-seedling way are powerful and healthy, characterized by high productivity.
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Tomato experiment
The fact that tomatoes can be grown in a doughless way, I've heard many times, but I myself tried it only this year. And then accidentally.
In my apartment on the windowsills for seedlings little space. Therefore, Cherry tomatoes were left to wait when the windowsills would be freed. But it was March, then April, and I remembered about Cherry, when it was time to plant the seedlings of tomatoes in the ground. Then I decided to try to grow tomatoes without seedlings.
On the humus bed fertilized with humus, he made holes, watered them with water. In each placed 2 seeds and sprinkled them with dry soil. She planted plastic cropped bottles over the crops.
All the seeds have sprung up! It was a pity to throw out unnecessary shoots, so I transplanted them to another garden. At first it seemed to me that my undertaking would lead to nothing good. Against the background of the rest of the tomatoes, Vishenka looked petty. But I lived!
I put small pins, supports, watered, loosened the soil. Somehow, unnoticed, the garden with Cherry turned into a whole "cherry orchard". Little support was clearly not enough, and some branches were located directly on the ground. The plants had many flowers and ovaries. This is at a time when fruits began to be poured on tomatoes planted through seedlings. I did not cut off my stepchildren, I did not pinch the tops either. Decided that the early harvest from this bed is no longer obtainable, let the plants fare longer.
The harvest was surprisingly large, it was collected until the end of October. The fruits were very tasty. Almost before the New Year, we ate ripe houses "cherries".
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Thank you - an interesting way, good luck and good harvests to all of you!
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More than once I watched tomatoes sown in a greenhouse. And the date something grew. And if you try at all without seedlings? .. Alina Innokentevna Murtazaeva.
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If we lived somewhere in Krasnodar or Sochi, I would say - of course! And so .. And for 35 years of "summer residence" I had the opportunity to make sure that tomatoes sometimes appear self-sowing. Last summer I even transplanted such a plant, and it bore fruit. Theoretically, you can try. Only in this case you will have to create a maximum favored treatment for tomatoes. Pick the earliest, superdeterminant varieties. But even then, fruiting will be shifted by at least two weeks. And also with our unpredictable summer ... After all, we grow tomatoes through seedlings to take (or at least start to take) the crop before the August outbreaks of late blight. After all, even in the Black Earth region, tomatoes are mainly grown through seedlings, though, often, there, to get the crop early, and then to have time to grow something else on this place before the cold snap. So we have a lot of fuss, but is the result justified?
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How to save seedlings of tomatoes?
It rises good, friendly, and when these leaves appear, it begins to disappear. Foliage as burned, but the root system is excellent, does not suffer. I would like to understand what is happening?
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Arches above the beds
I do the garden myself, so the goal was this - to save time and effort, as well as the durability of the material used. The tomato support is a folding arch from fittings. For the arch, you will need two-meter rods for support poles and rods 2,5 m long for jumpers. Everyone can choose the length of poles and jumpers for themselves, based on considerations of ease of use and the length of the site.
To connect the rods, I use ordinary plastic connections for irrigation hoses. At the corners of the arch - in the form of angles with
By the way
To wash your hands after working with tomatoes, just wash a couple of things manually or wash with the juice of red elderberry or rhubarb berries. But the most effective thing to do is ... a whitening toothpaste!
two holes, and for internal connections - with three holes, tees. The rods painted green. I support the rods from the rods by 30 cm, and insert the rods used as jumpers into the joints.
Everything is easy to assemble and so easy to understand.
Tomatoes are planted in staggered order. I prefer indeterminate (tall) and determinant (medium height) varieties. Tomatoes form in two stems. Through a crossbar I throw a twine (synthetic), I fix a loop to a leg of a plant. Stems wrap around twine as they grow. When the stems reach the crossbar, I pinch them. At the end of the season I dismantle everything and hide it in the utility room.
This arch can also be used for cucumbers. I hope that this design will make it easier for truck farmers to work.
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Olya. for you!
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Early tomatoes without a greenhouse
They say that bushes of early varieties of tomatoes, giving a harvest, die. My last season was fruitful until the very frosts. I think all this is due to the successful selection of varieties and care. Seeds 30 minutes disinfected in 1% solution of potassium permanganate, washed with running water, then soaked in Ecosil solution (according to instructions).
© 8 January (according to the lunar calendar) sowed on 10 seeds of each variety (took early, low growth, resistant to low temperatures Renet, Taimyr, Sakhalin, Peterhof, Little Red Riding Hood, Mete-1
face, Polar explorer) in cups of 0,5-0,7 l, covered with polyethylene and placed near the boiler. When the seedlings appeared, they transferred the plants to the windowsill, where they regularly watered and lighted 2-3 hours in the morning and in the evening. In the phase 2-3 of the present leaflets, the seedlings were split into the same glasses by one plant, culling the weak ones. Tomatoes watered and fed. In the middle of March, in plants with a height of 30 cm with flowers and buds, the tops were cut off over the 3-4 leaf and placed in water. When they let the roots go, they put them in the same cups
- by May they were well-developed plants with a lush crown, flowers and ovary.
The seedlings that remained after the cutoff were not thrown away. From the sinuses of the leaves grew stepchildren and also blossomed. 10 May, the glasses with plants brought to the street for quenching, and 15 May transplanted into the open ground by the method of transshipment in composted and warm water lunched wells.
Tomatoes did not hide and did not go to bed, they grew in 3-4 stems and already 15 June gave the first fruits: delicious, sweet, fragrant.
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How to care for the octopus?
I bought seeds of tomato tree Octopus P, but I can not find instructions on how to take care of it. Need to dig in the winter or leave? Or how? Please explain what kind of tomato.
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How to harvest good tomato seeds - my advice
Take the most beautiful and smooth, fully ripened fruit from the bush. Dry it with a clean rag. We shall cut across - we will see the open seminal chambers on both halves. In a dry, clean glass let out the seeds together with the juice. Do not allow water to enter the seeds! On the piece of paper write the date, the name of the variety and cover the glass with the seeds. Leave for three days in the room. During this time, the transparent placenta or "panties" with which the seeds were clothed will separate from them. You will wash the seeds on a strainer with cold boiled water. Rinse again. Seeds dry on paper at room temperature. Dry seeds are packed in a paper bag with the name of the variety and the date. They last for 8 years.
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A year ago one of my tomatoes grew and developed very slowly and blossomed only at the end of September. I transplanted the bush into a pot, transferred it to the house, and by the New Year nine fruits were ripened on it. To my surprise,
"did not calm down", but began to give powerful stepchildren. I cut them off, rooted them in the water, and dropped them into the pots, in order to place them in the garden in May. However, another shock awaited me: the entrenched cuttings blossomed and
knotted fruit without delay. And there were a lot of berries and they were delicious. In the ground, I already planted bushes, covered with ovaries and flowers. So now I will grow some of the tomatoes through stepchildren.