The arrangement of beds in the garden: ordinary and high (warm)
Why do we need beds in the garden and how to arrange them?
All the year round (except perhaps only in winter) on the site and in the garden is a cycle of changes: harvesting, releasing the land. Now it's time to start vacant space to meet the spring season in full readiness.
In fact, few gardeners are wondering - "And why do we need beds?", We will try to answer this question ...
The living conditions of plants in the garden can be improved by changing the terrain of the soil. In many regions of Russia, where heat is not enough, truck farmers have long thought to arrange beds.
Standard beds usually have a width of about 1 m. It is at this width that care of vegetables is more convenient - from two sides you will reach the middle. But this standard should not be taken as a dogma. The owner of a short stature needs a bed not so wide, and do a little child's little bed at all.
The distance between beds should be 30-40 cm to walk comfortably with a bucket, and when you bend down or sit down, do not crumple those plants that are behind.
Some summer residents manage to make passages between the beds to the width of the foot, and then all summer they go on their fingers like ballerinas. And for what?
The length of the bed should also be comfortable for work, so that you do not have to jump through it. The bed length from 5 to 10 m at the cottage is quite good.
Height of beds
The height of the bed is dependent on the type of soil in the plot. On the sandy loam soils make a height of 15-18 cm. But the heavier the soil than the clay, the higher the row is raised - up to 25-30 cm.
The bed has many advantages. By sampling the soil in the aisles and raising it to the bed of the ridge, we are building up a root layer. It becomes thicker on 15-20%. This is important for the development of the root system, this increases the ability of plants to receive more water or mineral nutrition from the soil.
In spring or autumn, the garden is dug up, and then the edges are crumbling. No problem, the repair is simple. Some gardeners put a formwork on the beds of boards, deeply impregnated with an antiseptic.
It turns out neatly, but this design has its own drawback. In the interval between the formwork and the soil, garden enemies are found: slugs, mites, thrips, larvae of insects. The box can be used on light soils, and on heavy soils the garden bed keeps well.
Warmer ...
Here we arranged a garden.
Let's see how the temperature changes throughout the day.
If on the surface of a flat garden in 8 hours of the morning the temperature is + 16 °, then the bed is already 18,4 degrees.
At noon, the temperature is almost equal: in the garden 21,6, and in the garden 22,3.
By evening the bed remains noticeably warmer than the plain.
This additional heat on the bed allows the plants to grow, develop, bear fruit. The accumulated heat penetrates deep layers. A warm patch is a guarantee of accelerated harvesting of a large mass. Plants, like any living thing, grow better and develop with rising temperatures. And the garden contributes to the normalization of the water regime. This is very important in early spring, in summer, and in autumn rains.
The paths between the beds can be sprinkled with sifted brick crumbs. It does not stick to the shoes and creates a pleasant color. And some summer residents put synthetic carpets between the beds.
Useful find
The air has already warmed up, but the soil remains cold for a long time. You dig in May, and at the depth of a bayonet of shovels there is still ice ... And August brings cold nights. All this creates serious problems for us - in June we are afraid not to destroy the seedlings by planting it in cold soil, and in August we are worried about how to preserve the crop.
Another problem for me personally is the long stagnation in the meltwater in late spring, which makes it impossible to grow berries, greens and vegetables in flat, unregistered ridges - they will simply be washed with water.
So how do you make the soil warm, while preserving its composition? I found a way out of the situation for a long time - you need to grow everything in high and warmed in a special way the ridges. Much later I learned that the name of these ridges is warm, and many gardeners and truck farmers use them successfully in their plots.
Hospital for planting
At first I was building such facilities for zucchini and cucumbers (for more information on how to grow cucumbers on a warm patch, you can read here) - spread out the pillow from the dung, from it did the skirts, and already in the middle of a similar structure fell asleep the ground.
Then I put arches on the bed and, if necessary, pulled the film on them. All would be well, but the proximity of the groundwater and spring flooding the river washed away my ridges, and every year they had to constantly correct. So I decided to make a stationary ridge.
From the scraps of boards, the boxes were built, not buried in the ground, the cardboard was laid down at the very bottom (it is important!), Overhead for it, branches with a diameter no larger than 2 cm were heated for drainage, and then organic material - grass, sloping, leaves, leaves (in fact , garden garbage, which is always at hand, only rake through the site).
I spread everything layer by layer, well spilling water and tamping my feet. Necessarily added to each layer either the rotted manure, compost, or garden land. Very good, if you can add more ash on the bucket in each layer of the new bed.
See also: How to arrange beds in the garden
Pros and cons of beds
When I laid all the layers in the bed, I poured bio-fertilizer to ripen the compost. From above poured garden ground and covered up to plantings with a film that did not dry up. By the same principle made a cucumber glass with a roof of reinforced film and walls on the sides of a double layer of covering material, which can be opened and closed if necessary.
On such high ridges I grow zucchini, peppers, aubergines and cucumbers - vegetables that require increased nutrition. In the process of decomposition of organics, heat is actively released, which is why vegetable seedlings can be planted sometimes even a month before the due date.
Plants grow faster in the warmth, and possible frosts are not so terrible as in low cold beds.
Naturally, in such conditions, the yield increases, and it is not difficult to care for planting.
Every spring (or autumn, here as it turns out) I remove the top layer of the earth and add again the leaves. After that, I return the earth to its place.
The only thing to remember about: in the first year after the device, these beds contain a lot of nitrogen, so it's better to plant and grow vegetables on this high bed, which require good nutrition.
In the first year after the construction of the garden, it is better to grow root crops and greens on them. Here, through 2-3, when the organic is recycled, it is possible to expand the assortment of plantings, without fear of accumulation of nitrates in them.
In general, high warm ridges are a way out for farmers who live in conditions of risky farming.
Author: Т.Паршина
PS: We must remember that the earth dries faster on warm ridges than on ordinary ones. Therefore, watering them requires more. Do the width of the bed so that when processing from either side, it is easy to reach its middle ...
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- How to buy soil for seedlings - select and check
- Long, short daylight and neutral vegetables - the difference in cultivation
- A vegetable garden on Mitlajderu - creation of fertile soil
- Saplings for the berry - choose correctly (memo + table)
- Preparation of the site for planting vegetables and growing, seed preparation and hardening of seedlings
- Signs of improper care of plants (vegetables): table-MEMBER for the gardener and the summer resident
- How to accelerate the ripening of tomatoes and other vegetables?
- Three "fashionable" scams - curly strawberries, a miracle buttock and Dutch technology
- Harvest the harvest correctly - for long storage
- Crop rotation in organic farming
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Improving the composition of the soil on the site is a perfectly feasible task. Even if there is no way and means to bring manure for the beds.
I want to share my experience in the autumn preparation of the beds by spring. Maybe it's not a no-scientific, but for the third year I've been doing so. During weeding, the ridge does not carry grass in the compost pile, but I put it in black tight polyethylene bags and tighten it.
When the garden is empty, I spread mustard, and those beds, on which mustard was not enough, I loosen with a flat-cutter, free of the weeds.
In bags, the grass rotates over the summer, it turns black earth. I put it on the beds, add phosphorus-but-potassium fertilizers, level and cover with black film.
By this time, mustard has already grown. I chop it off with a plane cutter, add earth and cover it with a black film too. So my beds are until spring. When it’s time for planting, I remove the film, and the ground under it is soft, loose. Once again, loosening a plane cutter And planting what I need. The result is wonderful.