53 Review (s)

  1. Pavel Kalugin, Moscow

    Thuja can be taken from cuttings quite easily, as well as juniper. Once I cut them out for landscape compositions and received seedlings. Since I took cuttings with a reserve, I didn’t use everything. The remains grew in containers on the ground, and in a couple of seasons they turned into lush Christmas trees.

    This is how the idea of ​​using them as Christmas trees was born. Why buy all sorts of araucarias and cypress trees if there is such a beautiful analogue! Now we decorate them like New Year trees, and this year we want to temporarily move one live thuja in a container into the house for the holiday. Then we'll go back to the garden. Unless, of course, it dries out in the apartment. It is possible that this specimen can be used many times as a Christmas tree.

    Reply
  2. Sergey SAMOLETNIKOV, Yaroslavl.

    Of all the conifers on the site, I like the spherical thuja most of all, which has been growing for several years. She decorates the flower bed near the house, sitting among tiger lilies, daylilies, miniature roses and subulate phloxes.
    I chose an open sunny place for her. When planting in the hole, I added a little moss and bark.
    Basic care
    I water the thuja moderately in the heat.
    I mulch the soil every spring with sawdust and not much hay.
    In May, I feed with humus or infusion of grass. I fill a 10-liter bucket halfway with weeds, fill it with water to the brim of the container and insist for several days. I filter before use. In June or July I use "Organic Mix" for conifers (according to the instructions) or "Healthy Garden" (5 caps per 8 liters of water).
    During the summer, I cut the shoots, maintaining a rounded shape of the crown.
    I do not cover for the winter.

    Tui: planting and care, varieties and species.

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      The most open and hottest area is not suitable for thuja, but she will not like the full shade either. The ideal place is in openwork penumbra.
      When planting in the hole, moss and bark do not need to be added. There will be no harm from them, but there will be no particular benefit either. It is better to replace these components with coniferous litter.
      Watering is necessary not only in the hottest time. During long periods of drought from May to the end of September, thuja is also moistened at least twice a month.
      Hay is not quite suitable as tree mulch. It is better to replace it with the same coniferous litter.
      From top dressing, I would recommend excluding humus. Enough mineral fertilizers that you use.
      For the winter, it is still better to cover the thuja with a layer of spunbond or burlap. This will protect her from drying out and sunburn.

      Nikolai CHROMOV

      Reply
  3. Julia Kurilovich

    Several years ago, without experience, I planted thuja eastern Aureya Nana and larch on a trunk (1-1,5 m high) too close to each other. Now the thuja has grown under 1,7 m and covers all the beauty of the larch, moreover, it has lost the needles from the neighbor's side. Tell me which is better: to make topiary pruning of thuja (spherical or cone) or transplant larch? What is the right time frame for this and will new needles grow?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      - In this case, it is better to seat the neighbors. To cut the way you want, you need to cut more than half of the crown, and it is permissible for plants to "lose" no more than 30% of the total volume per year. Pruning will have to be carried out in stages - over several years. Growing up, larch will still begin to shade the thuja
      - and she will "go bald". " It is not possible to transplant conifers until September - in the summer they will not be able to safely transfer this procedure.

      Transplant wisely
      In autumn, preferably in rainy weather, dig up the larch with a large lump of earth very carefully so as not to destroy it. Pour water into the prepared hole and lower the plant, fill it with soil. It is strictly forbidden to deepen the root collar of the tree - this will lead to its death! Water liberally after planting and continue to moisturize as much as possible until frost. Around the planting pit, you can make a low roller of the ground so that water does not spread over the surface. Dilute "Kornevin" in 1 liters of water for irrigation once every 2-10 weeks - the drug will help speed up the growth of new root hairs.
      Aftercare
      Next year, be sure to water the larch so that the entire root ball is soaked. To do this, leave a hose with oozing water next to the plant in the evening for several hours or even overnight: the earth will be deeply saturated, and the larch will take root.

      The "bald patch" "of the thuja will gradually begin to grow over with new branches. Unlike deciduous, conifers take longer to restore the crown. Spraying with a solution of a mixture of drugs will help speed up the process: "Ferovit" (1,5 ml / 1 l of water) + "Epin-Extra" (0,2 ml / 1 l of water) - once every 2 weeks.

      Reply
  4. Galina. Moscow region

    Thuya turned red ...
    What happened to my Teddy thuja (pictured)? After wintering, the plant looked good. Treated it with growth stimulants Epin Extra and Ferovit. And then the thuja unexpectedly "crumbled", and the needles inside turned yellow. I tried to clean off this "rust - it does not work." Maybe you should tie the crown?

    Tui: planting and care, varieties and species.

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      - Tuya received a severe sunburn. The affected needles can no longer be saved. Your task is to stimulate the growth of young shoots and their rapid overgrowth with needles. Loosen the trunk circle slightly and feed with a fertilizer solution with a high nitrogen and potassium content (1 liter per 10 liters of water). And immediately mulch the soil with crushed bark or peat chips, or even better - with coniferous litter from the forest.
      Gently comb the crown with your hands so that the yellowed and dry branches crumble, and then cut out the reddened shoots. You do not need to tie the crown. It is better to treat again with growth stimulants Ferovit and Epin Extra (according to the instructions).

      Reply
  5. Nikita Sergeiuk, p. Bezlyudovka, Belgorod Region

    An adult thuja grows in the shade of the house, the needles fall off, most likely, the soil in this place is acidic. What plants can be planted next to it to make a flower garden or decorative composition?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      - Based on my experience, I can say that needles that periodically fall off one thuja, even a large one, will not be able to greatly change the acidity of the soil.
      For light shade or partial shade (if the sun still peers into this corner for a while) with slightly acidic or close to neutral soils, hosts, bergenia, geraniums, geychera, tenaciousness, purse, hydrangeas are suitable. You can also "adhere" to ferns, tiarella, violets, lily of the valley, kupenu, yarnotka. For the solidity of the composition, I advise you to plant other decorative varieties of western thuja, as well as forms of junipers, fir trees.

      Reply
  6. Galina

    How many beautiful words have been said about this tree, and they all correspond to reality. It is even easier to breathe next to the thuja! This evergreen tree is beautiful in summer and winter. Several thujas of different ages grow in my front garden.
    In early spring, they throw out small, very beautiful fragrant cones. They can be pickled like birch buds. In autumn, they turn brown, and these cones, in which the seeds are located, can be planted. I collect them, put them on the table in a glass, or you can put a candle there.

    I advise all gardeners to start a thuja on the site. Information about its medicinal properties can be found on the Internet. Thuja tincture has now appeared in pharmacies.
    Growing her is not difficult at all! I take a pot, pour drainage and soil from the site. Then I sow the seeds collected in the fall - I cover the cones with soil for conifers and water them.
    In winter, this pot stands on the windowsill, and in spring, needles of greenery appear from the ground. After a while, they turn into a thuja twig.
    In this way, you can also grow a date palm (I have already tried it) from the stone of a purchased date. Good luck everyone, and don't be afraid to experiment!

    Reply
  7. Alexander Prokopovich

    I bought a beautiful western thuja in a container, but I'm afraid that I don't have time to plant it on the site in autumn. Does the seedling overwinter in a container?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      - Thuja should be planted in open ground no later than mid-September (if autumn is warm, then until the 20th of the month). Then, before the onset of cold weather, it will have time to take root and take root. But it is best to do this in spring, in April, when there are least risks for plants. Do not have time to plant now, do not worry - western thuja winters well in the garden in a container. The main thing is to properly prepare it for the cold weather. Without waiting for severe frosts, wrap the container with a thick non-woven material and place a piece of thick board under it. Later, make sure that not only the container is covered with snow, but also a layer of at least 20 cm lies on the soil surface.

      You can also dig the thuja directly into the container so that it is completely in the ground. Then mulch with peat and cover the whole plant with spunbond or burlap. In the spring, in April, you just need to dig up the plant and transplant it to a permanent place.

      Reply
  8. Olga Zinchenko

    When and how to plant thuja correctly so that they do not die (there is a sad experience)? What is the best place for them?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      - In the middle lane, the western thuja and its forms are grown - they can decorate an alpine hill, a rocky, heather and Japanese garden, a retaining wall, a slope, the edge of a forest corner, a walking path and even the shore of a reservoir. The place should be sunny or not more than half a day in the shade. Remember, parts of the crown that will touch (shade) with other plants will become bare over time.
      It can be planted from late August to mid-September (bare roots).

      Thuja prefers medium loam, moderately nutritious, slightly acidic.

      If the soil is heavy clayey, light sandy or clean peat, you need to improve: a) add sand (1, 5-2 buckets / sq.m); b) clay soil (1 wedge / m2) and peat (3-1 wedges / m5); c) clay in powder form (2 buckets / sq. m); sand (3-5 buckets / m10), lime (depending on the acidity of the soil), compost (XNUMX-XNUMX l / mXNUMX).

      ADVICE
      In the prepared hole, spread the roots evenly (for container seedlings, the bottom layer of the coma must be “tousled”). Lift the tree so that the root collar is 2-3 cm above ground level.
      Fill with prepared soil and compact the soil with your hands, just do not squeeze it near the trunk. Thuja will settle a little with the ground, and the root collar will be flush with the horizon. You cannot deepen it.
      After watering, it is better to immediately mulch the soil in the trunk circle with pine bark and wood chips. But at the root collar (10-12 cm in diameter), cover the ground by no more than 1 cm or not cover it at all.
      Galina SINOGEYKINA, Cand. agricultural sciences, Barnaul

      Reply
  9. Nikolay ERMIKOV, Bryansk

    Collecting thuja cones

    In late August and early September, I collect unopened thuja cones (earlier - in city parks, now - from my trees). I lay it out on paper and dry it. As soon as the cone opens, I shake out the seeds and immediately sow (the longer they lie, the worse their germination). I mix garden soil with peat and sand (2: 4: 1), level and compact the garden bed. I make grooves every 5-6 cm, 2 cm deep and 1 cm wide. I evenly spread the seed at a distance of 1 cm from each other, sprinkle it with a layer of earth about 1 cm on top and press it lightly with my hand. If it's dry, I water the soil, then cover the crops with foil. In the spring, in the process of melting the snow, I put pegs under the film so that it does not touch the ground. With the emergence of seedlings, I remove the shelter. Once a month I feed it with a solution of complete mineral fertilizer (according to the instructions). I will definitely shade from the sun.

    To a permanent place
    After the next wintering, I plant the seedlings in a semi-shady place. I pre-dig the site, scattering a bucket of humus, 45 g of nitrophosphate and 250 g of wood ash per 1 sq. M. When planting, I leave the root collar at ground level.

    Reply
  10. Tatiana VRONSKAYA

    So that thuja do not turn yellow
    Every year, the neighbors' thuja turn yellow, and mine are green. I share the secrets of care.

    When planting in a pit, I definitely add crushed eggshells (no matter how much I feel), but first I cover the bottom with drainage from broken bricks or small stones. This will strengthen the root system by directing the lateral shoots to grow in width. Then the thuja will be more resistant to strong wind gusts.
    Thuja should not be planted in an acidic substrate, otherwise the roots will quickly rot. The needles will turn light green. And the annual growth will be very small.
    The plant does not tolerate stagnant water. I water the thuja as the earth dries up and only in the evening after sunset (then all the essential oils that are formed on the trunk after watering will release their aroma into the air).
    From ticks and rust, I spray thuja with chamomile infusion (pour 1 kg of dry crushed inflorescences and leaves with 10 liters of hot (60-80 degrees) water, leave for a day under a lid, strain, dilute with water 1: 4, adding 10- 40 g of shavings of laundry soap) and wormwood (dry 50 kg of raw materials, pour water in a saucepan to cover the plants, boil over low heat for 1 minutes, strain, bring the volume to 20 liters, adding 10 g of laundry soap).

    If the tips of the branches turn yellow, then the roots are lacking in minerals. Can be fed with special fertilizer for conifers. I bring soil from the forest (I remove about 7 cm), with which I cover the trunk circle.

    Reply
  11. Anna Fedotova, Krasnoyarsk

    A friend says that you need to water the thuja with acidified water (with the addition of 9% vinegar) a couple of times a season, because, in her opinion, conifers grow better on acidic soil. Is it true?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      - It is often thought that thujas, like pines and spruces, prefer an acidic environment. But this is not the case. Most varieties of western thuja, namely this species are more often used in landscaping, are tolerant to soil acidity (i.e., this indicator does not greatly affect the growth and development of the plant) or prefer a slightly alkaline soil. Therefore, it makes no sense to water the soil under them with a vinegar solution.

      But for hydrangea, heather and rhododendron, this procedure is useful. Depending on the acidity of the soil on the site, water the plants once every 10 days or once every 1-2 months with a solution of 9% vinegar (100 ml / 10 l of water). Ammonium sulfate also acidifies the soil well (according to the instructions).

      Reply
  12. OOO "Sad"

    For one of the holidays I was given a thuja in a pot. She was small, 20 centimeters in height. I really liked her, and I carefully looked after her. But after some time the tree began to wither. They tried to transplant - it did not help, fertilizers also did not give any result.

    Then we decided to land it in the open ground: otherwise we could only throw it away. Our cottage is located on the Karelian Isthmus, the fertile layer is thin there, the soil is loam, and the climate is quite severe. But the thuja took root and began to grow! We planted it in the middle of a flower bed, not far from the house. (By the way, it’s better not to plant close to the house — snow falling from the roof can damage the branches.) 5 years have passed since then, and the thuja has grown into a fluffy tree of the correct form, even without additional crown formation.
    In nature, thuja under favorable conditions can reach a height of 20-30 m, and its trunk - 180 cm in diameter.

    Ekaterina Pozdnyakova, Leningrad Region

    Reply
  13. Eugenia SIMHAHODSKAYA, landscape designer, Moscow

    How to quickly breed thuja

    If you want to decorate your site with thuja and at the same time save on planting material, I suggest that you propagate the plant from cuttings yourself. And now is the right time for this lesson (second half of May - early June).
    From the top of the arborvitae, Narva cuttings with a length of 10-20 cm - down from the trunk, with a piece of wood (the so-called "heel"). To disinfect, dip them in a pink potassium permanganate solution.
    On the cuttings, remove the lower leaves, dust the “heels” with the root stimulant and plant them on a half-shade bed under arcs with agrofibre or film (or under “caps” from cut 5-liter bottles - remove the shelter after a couple of months). Plant to a depth of 2-5 cm at an angle of 3-40 degrees, squeezing with soil. And do not thicken: the cuttings should be well ventilated.
    Water the plantings, in the future, monitor the moisture of the soil.
    Transplant rooted plants into a permanent place in April next year.

    Reply
  14. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    When and how best to cut thuja?
    Alina Boyko, Volgograd

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      Thuja forming pruning can be carried out from spring to autumn.
      The first shaping haircut should be carried out at 3-4 year after planting the seedling. During this time, he will gain strength and gain strength, take root in a new place. It is better to start pruning from mid-summer until the fall. In the future, you only need to adjust the already given shape.

      Before proceeding with pruning, it is necessary to study the shape of the tree and orient yourself on them. So that the plant does not experience severe stress, at a time you need to trim only the third suit of all branches. In autumn, correct an already formed crown.
      For pruning, you can take garden shears and a pruner or hedge trimmer. Tools should be well sharpened and sharp so that there are no dents on the stems.
      It is advisable to start pruning on a cloudy day. This will help to avoid the appearance of yellow and brown patches of needles. At the end of the procedure, the tree should be abundantly watered.

      Reply
  15. Vladimir Korotkov. Adygea

    I have a thuja growing on the site that is more than 20 years old. The height is about 8 m. I want to shorten it to 5 m and somehow give the crown a neater look. How to do it right? What time?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      - Tui is one of the most unpretentious and spectacular plants for landscape design. And to a large extent due to the fact that it responds well to trimming and molding cutting. These works should be carried out in early spring (March-April) or in the fall (early September). And be sure to choose a dry, clear day (in the rain and wet weather, you should not approach the tool with the tool).

      Three cutting stages
      1. If you are going to cut the center conductor, measure the height you need. Cut the tip under the nearest side branch from it, departing no more than 1,5 from this branch.
      2. Then, for sanitary purposes, remove dry branches and those that thicken the crown with garden shears, so that you will ensure better air circulation and thereby reduce the possibility of plant infection with diseases and pests.
      3. The last step - a decorative haircut to give shape to the crown. Trim the side branches about a third. All places slices immediately gloss over the garden pitch.
      Mikhail NAUMOV, agronomist

      Reply
  16. Veronika Pavlovich, Samara

    The better to feed thuja western?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      - To conifers remain in the "dress" of a saturated green color, I do not advise using a large amount of nutrient mixtures, especially with a high nitrogen content. Emphasis in fertilizing needs to be made on micro and macro elements as part of complex mineral or organic mineral fertilizers. Currently, the market is oversaturated with conifer fertilizers. The most common - WMD Conifers (organomineral). Bring it three times per season:
      - spring (in April-early May);
      - in the middle of summer;
      -in early autumn (late August-early September).

      On 1 sq. M, put 20-30 in soil, then pour plenty of water. In April and the beginning of May, it is possible to grind the tree trunk under a thuja of rotted manure (thickness 5-8 cm), slightly mixing it with the top layer of soil.

      Reply
  17. Lyudmila NOVOZHILOVA

    Sometimes at the end of March, the street warms sharply, but the earth still does not have time to thaw out - such conditions are dangerous for conifers.

    I read that at this time the needles are actively working (photosynthesis begins), evaporating moisture, and the roots are not yet able to extract it from the frozen soil. As a result, the plant is dehydrated. Now, to help my tuyam, as soon as the snow melts, the ground beneath them is well spilled with hot water. I do this once.

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      In general, the actions are correct, but in the beginning of spring the complex care of conifers is important. As soon as the temperature rises above + 10 degrees, loosen the soil in the near-stem circle with minimal addition of the peat mixture, since the coniferous plants have a superficial root system.

      In the spring of moisture plants, as a rule, enough. But additional watering does not hurt, especially on sandy soil, where water does not linger (1-2 buckets of warm water per plant in height 1-3 m). I also advise, as a preventive measure, to spray the aboveground part of the Bordeaux mixture (100 g per 10 l of water). After 10-12 days against diseases, spray the fungicide (Fundazol, HOM) according to the instructions. Re-water the thuja after 3-4 of the day with Epin or Zircon growth biostimulator. In the same period, you can hold molding pruning tui.
      Mikhail NAUMOV

      Reply
  18. Natalya Vasilyevna TREGUBOVA, Kursk

    In winter and summer - in different colors
    After a haircut last year, my thuja pleased with lush greenery.
    But at the end of the summer, red spots began to appear on the conifer tree and the branches began to fall. What is my favorite sick?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      Few people know that there are species of thuja that live for no more than six years, after which they first brighten and then begin to turn yellow and eventually die. Ryzhina usually appears around the trunk in the middle of the crown, which subsequently falls. This usually happens in late summer and autumn.
      External influences
      Conifers can be painted in golden-bronze, brown, brown in winter due to frost, air temperature drops, and in early spring also from sunburn.
      Thuja can change color due to the fact that under it defecate the need of dogs and cats. In this case, the tree is covered with black bloom.

      Improper care
      Errors in choosing the place and time for planting, improperly carried out watering and top dressing can also become a cause of ill health. So, if the tree does not have enough moisture, or, conversely, in excess, the thuja starts to mope. It should be watered once a week, and immediately after planting - daily. No more than a bucket of water is poured under one tree. If you overdo it, stagnation of water for at least two weeks will lead to rotting of the roots and the appearance of fungal diseases. At the same time, with a lack of moisture, the thuja turns yellow and begins to dry out. But what thujah like, especially in the heat, is sprinkling. Ideal if you will have her showers in the evenings.

      Prevention and treatment
      In order to prevent and treat fungal diseases, the plant should be sprayed with copper-containing preparations (Bordeaux mixture, “HOM”, “Oxy”) or watered under the “Fundazole” root.
      Council
      Bordeaux liquid can be prepared independently. To obtain 10 l 1% solution will need 100 g of lime and copper sulfate. In glassware (in no way iron or plastic) in the 1 l of hot water (temperature to 50 degrees) the vitriol (copper sulfate) dissolves, the volume of the liquid is brought by adding cold water to 5 l. 8 other capacity diluted with hydrated lime (fluff), you can immediately 8 5 l of water at room temperature. The first liquid is carefully poured into the other (in no case the other way around), constantly stirring, filtered through two layers of gauze or old tights. This working solution can be used for preventive spraying every spring (during the growth of new needles) at the rate of 10 l / 100 square. m
      It is also worth recalling that seasonal changes in coloring are characteristic of western and folded thuja. They become slightly brown varieties of European Tui Brabant and Columna. And only the Smaragd variety is not afraid of any frosts.

      Reply
  19. Nikolay ERMIKOV, Bryansk

    Thujia cones

    In late August and early September, I collect non-disclosed cones of thuja (formerly in urban parks, now from their trees). I spread it on paper and dried it. As soon as the cone opens, I shake out the seeds and immediately sow (I shovel the garden land with peat and sand (2: 4: 1), spread the seedbed and compact it. I make grooves through 5-6 cm with depth 2 cm and width 1 cm. uniformly seeds at a distance of 1 cm from each other, top with a layer of earth about 1 cm and sprinkle it with my hand.If dry, water the soil, then close the crops with film.

    In the spring, in the process of melting snow under the film, I put pegs so that the shelter does not touch the ground. With the emergence of shoots remove the film.

    Once a month I feed with a solution of full mineral fertilizer (according to the instructions). Necessarily pritenyayu from the sun. After the next wintering, the seedlings are planted in the penumbra. The site is pre-digested, scattering 1 bucket of humus, 45 g nitrofoski and 250 g wood ash per 1 sq.m. When planting, the root neck is left at ground level.

    Reply
  20. Vasilisa YURIEVA, Belgorod region

    A couple of years ago, my grandmother had a rest in the sanatorium of the Krasnodar Territory and brought from there seeds of thuya. At first I doubted that it was possible to grow a warmth-loving thuja from a seed at home, but my grandmother did, and now we have several seedlings. We dream with grannies to plant a whole hedge at the cottage.

    Until spring, Grandma kept the seeds in a linen cloth in the fridge. In the spring, she mixed the sod land, peat, sand (1: 1: 2), filled the mixture in boxes and sowed the seeds of thuja to a depth of 1 cm. She sprayed the soil from the spray gun overhead, covered it with film and placed it on the windowsill. When sprouts appeared, she occasionally opened the film, and after about a month she completely removed it and transferred it to the balcony. The seedlings grew very slowly, and there was not even a question of planting it in the open ground in the same season. In autumn, the grandmother planted a dozen of the strongest sprouts in separate pots. 1 once a month in water for irrigation it added fertilizer for conifers. By spring the seedlings reached about 10 cm in height.

    In early summer, Granny planted seedlings under the cherry trees in the open ground every 30 cm, not burrowing the root neck. On the bed before this brought 1 bucket of humus, a handful of ammophoski and 2 a glass of wood ash. In the next spring, if the plants safely overwinter, they can be planted in a permanent place. And then grandmother's dream will come true!

    Reply
  21. Anastasia Rumyantseva, Moscow

    We all know the needles of thuja - it seems that you can not confuse it with anything. But no! She has amazing heather-like forms with needle-shaped needles. For example, the cultivar 'Ericoides' is a dwarf bushy and fast-growing thuja up to 1 m high.

    It is strikingly similar to a juniper! By the winter, its needles acquire bronze shades, but do not panic, in the spring it quickly recovers and again becomes silvery-green. In the dwarf variety 'Teddy', the needles are short and fluffy, also needle-shaped. Its height after 10 years is only 0,3 m, the best it will look in any stony garden. The needles are similar to that of 'Recurva Nana', only it is higher than 'Teddy' (2 m).

    Reply
  22. Nicholas

    REALIZE THAT ALL IS NOT DIFFICULT

    A few years ago in the spring, a friend of mine, a summer resident, brought me a twig of western thuje. I put it in a bottle of water and, while she stood on the window, read the literature about this plant.
    I was interested, can it be rooted? It turned out that Tuya generally reproduces easily by cuttings. From the brought twigs, I cut a dozen cuttings with a small heel each (about 1 cm). Day spent the prepared cuttings in a solution of hegeroauxin, and the next day dropped them to a depth of about 2 cm in the old leaky pelvis.
    The soil was taken peat, bought in the store, from above poured a layer of sand about 3 cm. I put the pelvis into the garden in a shaded place, under gooseberry. All the spring and summer watered them, in the hot days after watering covered with plastic wrap.
    What was my joy when practically all the cuttings went into growth! In autumn he dropped them in the open ground to a permanent place where they grow now. For winter covered with a layer of leaves.
    Through 2, the thuja climbed to a height of 30-35 cm, and although my land is heavy, clay, thuya grows fine.
    Then he repeatedly rooted thuja cuttings directly in the open ground, planting them in late March - early April. I distribute rooted cuttings to neighbors and acquaintances. Thuja is very good in summer and winter.
    He also mastered one more method of reproduction of this plant. When it reaches a height of about 2 m in spring, carefully, so as not to damage the roots, I make a groove perpendicular to the trunk in the ground, 4 bends down the lower branch of the thuja, pins it and pours the groove with fertile soil. In autumn the branch gives already rooted shoots. I cut off the seedlings and plant them in a permanent place. The next year such seedlings reach a height of 50 cm.

    Reply
  23. Dmitry Kolesov, city of Molodechno

    I tried to sow thai seeds. Everything worked out. But last year he collected them from the Thuya variety of Smaragd, and not a single seed emerged. What could be the reason?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      - Tiuma seeds need stratification. You can now sow their houses in a bowl and put in the refrigerator for 2-3 months, or you can sow under the winter in the garden - on the bed, but better - in the tank, so as not to lose. Fill it with a mixture of turf or garden soil, peat and sand (1: 2: 0,5). Well level and compact the soil. Make a groove and evenly distribute the seeds along it. Top the ground with soil. You can pour a little. It is advisable to cover with polyethylene. Place a pot with a sub-tree on the street.

      In the spring, as soon as it gets warmer, the earth will warm up to + 13-15 degrees, the first shoots will appear.
      Every 2 weeks, feed the plants with a solution of full mineral fertilizer (nitrogen + phosphorus + potassium). When the seedlings grow, they can be planted, but if the crops are not thickened, leave it in the bowl for another year.

      Reply
  24. Polina KRYLOVA, Bryansk

    When colleagues gave me 4 thui for my birthday, I was happy as a child. Planted them in a row near the fence on the south side. Through 3-4, they were to become the highlight of the site. However, the hot summer of 2016-th played its fatal role.

    Tui very much like moisture. When they are poured on top of the sprinkler, their needles "opens" and begins to give a fragrant freshness. My husband and I poured tui 2 times a week, and they well tolerated 30-degree heat. But when we went on vacation, agreeing on watering with a neighbor, thujas had a hard time.
    Neighbor decided not to water the trees (not cucumbers!). The sun, which on the southern side bakes all day, "evaporated" all moisture from the tuja. As a result, by our arrival, the green pyramids turned into rusty panicles.

    For myself, I made 2 conclusions. The first is not to resort to the help of a neighbor. The second is not to plant thuja on the south side of the site. I placed new arborvitae near the porch of the house on the northwest side. While they are small, but already very cute!

    Reply
  25. Elena PONOMAREVA, Bobrov

    Conifers with a closed root system can be planted from April to October. Usually in summer residents, Tuva western Smaragd is most popular. This, as they say, is a classic - a plant of the correct form in the form of a candle, which looks good both as a separate tree and as a hedge.

    The seedling in the pot before planting should be "drunk" - put it directly in this container in a bucket of water for 30-40 minutes. Dug up a hole for 4 cm more than the pot in which the plant grows, and pour it abundantly. The place should be sunny or slightly shaded, but not a deaf shadow! The soil is fertile, well drained. On the loam soil fills fill with soil for conifers. Only no organics - humus, compost, etc.
    If you plan to create a hedge, plant the plants at a distance of 80-120 cm from each other.
    Remove thoy from the pot, put it in a hole, fill it with soil and pour again. By the way, to pour young plants first time you need regularly - in a drought 1 -2 times a week morning or evening. A week or two after planting, I recommend feeding it with fertilizer for conifers.

    FOR THE NOTICE
    In spring (in March-April), tuja may burn the needles - this is a natural process. Do not immediately get frustrated - time will pass, the sun will warm, and the color will again become saturated green.

    Reply
  26. Marina ISAYEVA, Kursk

    I planted thuya. They grew well for several years, but last year the bark on large branches began to swell, as if on the reverse side of the sheet, I noticed small specks of pink-yellow-brown color, the branches became brittle. What could it be?

    Reply
    • Marina

      Judging by the insufficiently complete description, your plant was attacked by a small insect (3-7 mm) - a thujaceous false shield. It is necessary to immediately carry out a set of measures to combat it.

      The most effective measure is the treatment of plants in the spring (late April - early May) and summer (late June - early August) periods with insecticides. There are also folk methods. For prevention, you can tie the trunk with burlap. At the same time, treat the branches with a soapy solution on denatured alcohol (15 g of soap, 10 ml of alcohol and 1 l of warm water).

      Reply
  27. Vitaly IVLEV, Lipetsk

    Very interested in the question: how to keep the seedling tui until spring at home? I would not want him to turn yellow and die, because he did not get me so easily.

    Reply
    • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

      Seedling of western Tui is quite realistic to keep the house without any problems. The main thing is to ensure optimal conditions. Ground the earth wrap sackcloth in several layers. The burlap material must be free of synthetic inserts, fibers, and the like. Make sure that it is constantly wet. Roots should also be constantly wet. But do not overdo it, know the measure. Excessive watering can ruin a seedling. You can transplant the seedling in a suitable pot, and after the onset of heat, already move the plant to a permanent place. It is best to keep the seedling in a cool place (in the cellar, basement, on the loggia), where the temperature is about 5-10 °. However, do not allow negative temperatures and strong drafts. Do not forget that the tuja seedling needs light. Place a lamp, floor lamp or lamp above it.

      Reply
  28. Pavel ROGOZHKIN, Tula region

    At my dacha a few low tuya grow.
    These evergreen bushes, also called life trees, decorate the site remarkably well, giving it a well-groomed appearance. But in order for them to perform their decorative function, we must first look after them.
    When the thuja begins to grow actively, it should be well watered, and the trunks periodically break up to a depth of 8-10 cm. After this, it is desirable to mulch with sawdust or peat. And since loosening should be carried out often, in order to reduce the consumption of mulch, it is better to shovel it aside before starting work, and then return it to its place.
    In order for the bushes to grow well and quickly, they should often be sprayed with warmed by the sun water. It is desirable to add a little growth stimulant. Spraying should be done in the evening, so that the plant does not get sunburn.
    Dry branches need to be removed, and the plant itself is then treated with a systemic fungicide in order to destroy the fungus. Often it is the cause of the drying of branches.

    Reply
  29. Nikolai Nikolaevich SHEPOREVICH, Minsk

    Last year all the pears fell ill with an unknown disease for me. On many leaves there were spots of orange, similar to rust. On the reverse side, some growths were formed in these places.
    Do you have enough forces to fight?
    Having read the article about pear diseases, I learned that the source of infection is juniper, whose spores are spread over a distance of 50-100 m and infect pears and even apple trees not only on one's own, but also on neighboring sites.
    This disease is called rust and it occurs in the garden only with the presence of juniper, which became fashionable in many owners of summer cottages.
    How to get rid of this scourge? One respected scientist suggests treating trees in the garden with a 5-7% solution of urea at the beginning of fall foliage, and spraying pears with some fungicide 4-5 times in the next season.
    I could agree with a specialist and process trees 5-6 times, if I had only these works! But for the summer season we have to fight also with phytophthora, scab, powdery mildew, and also with the Colorado beetle, aphids and a bunch of other winged and wingless creatures.
    So I'm afraid that the work to combat rust pears for me, and other dacha residents is simply unrecognizable! And there is no certainty. that it will be successful, because, as it seems to me, there are still no effective means against this disease.
    Attention - to other conifers
    So I thought: is the role of juniper in our gardens great? Can you find him an equivalent replacement?
    I have three pyramidal and two spherical thuys on the site, which invariably cause admiration of acquaintances and just passers-by. After all, the "pyramids" shot upward at 5 m. And what flavor they exude!
    Without causing any harm to other plants, without creating a lot of shade, they grow beautifully without any care, not counting the abundant autumn watering with rain water, let down from the barrel.
    So for the sake of saving pears and apple trees from an infection that suddenly came to our gardens, let us all together say decisively: there is no place for juniper in our gardens! Forget about this culture and for beauty we will start growing other conifers that are not a threat to fruit crops.

    Reply
  30. Evgeny VASNETSOV, Ekaterinburg:

    In spring I found that on the bark of young tui (they were planted for about 5-7 years ago) longitudinal cracks appeared from 10 to 25 cm. Some of the gaps were obviously fresh, others had dragged on. Because of what they were formed? What to do to prevent the trees from perishing? Now they look quite happy

    Reply
    • Alexander KULENKAMP Ph.D. Sci., Associate Professor

      In spring I found that on the bark of young tui (they were planted for about 5-7 years ago) longitudinal cracks appeared from 10 to 25 cm. Some of the gaps were obviously fresh, others had dragged on. Because of what they were formed? What to do to prevent the trees from perishing? Now they look quite happy
      The bark may crack due to frostbite. If the gap is small and the tree starts to grow slowly, by the middle of the summer everything is overgrown. In this case, you can do nothing, because before the cracks grow themselves. But when the thyme is overfed and grows in leaps and bounds, and the wound, especially serious, is dragged out with difficulty, the plant needs help!
      Large cracks with exfoliating bark have to be treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, after removing the dried out areas. Then dry, cover with a thin layer of garden gauze and tightly bandage with a tape from the net. The piping can also be spread over the top so that it does not get wet from the rain.
      What else to do? Reduce the dose of nitrogen in spring fertilizing and generally abandon it from the second half of summer. In hot, dry weather, thuja, especially with fresh cracks, should be watered abundantly every two weeks, and newly planted plants once a week. The norm is 1-2 buckets of water per plant up to 1,5 m high. Watering should be done early in the morning or in the evening, at the same time sprinkling crowns.
      Weakened, and healthy trees are much better than themselves if the ground above the roots is covered up. There are no sharp changes in temperature, longer moisture persists in the soil. If we use weeded, ground and shredded weeds as a mulch, we can refuse completely from the fertilization of these crops or reduce them to a minimum even on poor soils.

      Reply
  31. Grigory Tarasov, Kugesi, Chuvashia

    Why does thuya dry
    Pine, spruce, fir are conifers of northern origin, so in winter they consume less water than more southern species, such as thuja. This is due to the fact that the needles for the winter are covered with a dense waxy coating that covers the stomata, and the water does not evaporate through them. The trunks are protected from frost by thick bark, the kidneys - a layer of resin. And in thuja, the needles are open and the water evaporates all winter, while the roots, due to freezing of the soil, cannot extract moisture from it. As a result, by the spring on young thuja, with superficially lying roots, entire branches dry out. In addition, thujas suffer from the early spring sun. Therefore, in winter and early spring, they must be protected by covering the tree trunks and the ground part of the plants with non-woven material.

    Reply
  32. Maxim Nesterov, Kursk

    Nursery for Tui
    Along the perimeter of the summer house I have been building a green fence of tui for several years. To make it solid, you need to plant a lot of plants, especially since not all of them get accustomed. To buy young tuja in such quantity is expensive, here and has conceived to create for them own nursery.
    Every autumn I collect the matured cones from previously planted plants and arrange them on white paper. After a day or two, the cones are opened, small seeds spill out of them. On white paper they are clearly visible.
    Seeds for half a day put in water at room temperature, and then a little dried on a napkin and sowed in boxes filled with a moistened mixture of fertile soil and peat. I take both of them in equal parts. Sey seeds with an interval of 10-12,
    All winter I keep boxes near the window, periodically watered, loosened the soil, but so as not to injure the emerging sprouts.
    Around the middle of spring, I plant already grown seedlings in a permanent place - I compact them with a green hedge. Of course, growing thuja from seeds is a long process. But at my disposal is an almost unlimited number of seedlings. And this is without any costs!

    Reply
  33. Fedor and Galina Tsvetkovs. Moscow

    TUI WINTER CALCULATION
    After the thuja was frost-bitten by the first minus temperatures, we harvest cuttings for reproduction. Cuttings are separated from the shoot with a piece of perennial bark. Then they must be completely processed by a growth stimulant.
    We use heteroauxin at a concentration of 0,01-0.02%. The bottom of the handle needs to be cleaned of needles, then dip it in the "Kornevin." On a long textile napkin (they are sold in rolls and designed for cleaning), put sphagnum soaked in water, and cuttings in a row on it. Wrap the bottom edge of the napkin to fix the cuttings. Then roll everything into a roll, secure with an elastic band and wrap it in a bag. You can hang it on the window (higher, so that the heat from the battery does not damage). In spring, roots will appear, and it will be possible to plant plants in the school.

    Reply
  34. Inga LISOVSKA

    TUYA WILL NOT HOPE
    If the autumn is arid, then periodically water on the site with not too cold water. What for? As is known, all plants evaporate moisture through leaves, and evergreen trees and shrubs evaporate it in winter, especially on sunny days. If in the fall there was little rain, the soil for wintering leaves dry. As a result, conifers due to lack of moisture can gradually wither.

    Reply
  35. Tamara VETLOGANOVA, Nizhny Novgorod

    Sow - thu in the winter
    The most effective, I believe, is to propagate thawed seeds - sowing them in the winter. They need to be collected in early September, before the cones are opened.
    Cut the bumps, dry them (they must open), and then shake them, so that seeds spill out.
    Prepare a wooden box with soil. Take the land from the garden, mix it with peat (it should be 2 times more) and sand (enough half of the earth's volume). Seal the earth in the drawer, level it.
    make grooves with the distance between them 5 see In Sow the seeds of thuja. Lightly pour. Approximately in 3 weeks, shoots should appear. From time to time it is necessary to feed complex mineral fertilizer. □ In spring, the strongest seedlings should be planted in the "nursery" (preferably, if you choose a place in the penumbra). In another year, you can land thuju on a permanent place.

    Reply
  36. Marina

    Thuya has not been growing for years 5. as she was planted, she remained the same, did not grow at all, and did not die, all green. What to do to make it go into growth?

    Reply
    • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

      plant another

      Reply

Mini-forum of gardeners

Your email will not be visible