Tui: planting and care, varieties and species.
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TUYA - LANDING AND CARE, GROWING AND VARIETIES
The Thuja genus includes five species, home to which is North America: thuja koraiensis, thuja western (Thuja occidentalism thuja folded (Thuja plicata), thuja Japanese (Thuja standishii) and thuya Szechuan (Thuja sutchuanensis).
Returning to the history of this plant and expressing itself in modern language, the tour of beauty-thui in Europe was at full notice. Conquering the Old World, with lightning speed, she ascended to the top of the hit parade, where she lives but this day, pushing other coniferous fellows - junipers, firs, pines and other species. As they say, "Statistics is a stubborn thing." According to her, thui are most in demand by amateur gardeners and are the undisputed leaders in sales.
From the point of view of landscape gardening, Tuya was the answer to numerous questions - evergreen, frost-resistant, undemanding in care, fragrant, easy in topiary work and many more advantages.
During the naturalization process in Europe, it turned out that not all of its species are suitable for this climate. Therefore, there is nothing surprising in that after the lovers of gardens and parks, breeders became interested in it. As a result of their work, the most widespread were the varieties: the western and the so-called folded. Each of these natural species has acquired a variety of decorative varieties with different characteristics of shape, growth and coloring of the needles.
On a note:
His trip across Russia began in the 18th century thanks to the Russian aristocracy, who loved to rest on the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus and in the southern part of the Crimea. The peak of prosperity fell on the first half of the XIX century, when such masterpieces of landscape architecture as the estate "Koreiz" of Princess Golitsyna, the estate "Sofievka" of Prince Naryshkin, the estate of Shuvalovs, Yusupovs, August princes and other well-known historical figures began to be created. Unfortunately, the twentieth century, which began with turbulent upheavals, stopped the spread of Tui in Russia. But everything goes on in this world, the First World War and the October Revolution subsided, the Civil War ended and the new government was already concerned with the need to restore landscape art as an integral part of the culture and recreation of the Soviet citizen. And in the fall of the year 1933, a decree of the Politburo introduced the post of commissioner for resort issues. Thanks to this decision, Thuya returned to us-firmly, for a long time and does not intend to leave.
Today, as a result of selection selection for the climatic conditions of Russia, western thuja and folded thuja are also recognized as suitable. Let us dwell on these two types in more detail ...
Thujia the Western
The tree (less often a shrub), reaches 2 meters in height. Needles are scaly, in summer bright green, and in winter with brownish tinge. The crown is small, the trunk is flexible but sturdy. Bark smooth light brown color (young tuya) and with a red tinge in adults. The cones are very small, rarely more than 1 cm.
Of all the cultivated varieties, and there are more than 100 of them in Western soils, the most popular (if you look at the offers of nurseries, for example, the Yuzhny decorative culture nursery) among gardeners and landscapers are such as: 'Brabant', Danica ',' Aurea ',' Globosa ',' Hoseri ',' Smaragd 'and' Yellow Ribbon '. Of the above garden forms, the unconditional three leaders:
Thuya 'Brabant' - an even green column, in adulthood, 1.5–2.0 meters high, 3–6 meters wide. It grows rapidly - up to 30 cm high and 10 centimeters wide a year.
Fruits Brabant-brown cones. Needles retain color in winter. It feels best on sunny or semi-shady areas, the soil prefers fertile, light soils. It grows poorly on heavy soils, it is very sensitive to drought. Well suited for creating hedges, especially cropped.
Thuya 'Smaragd' - a neat pyramid of saturated green color, in the adult state of 5 m in height, up to 1,8 m in width. It grows slowly: in a year up to 10 cm in height and up to 5 cm in width. Fruits are round brown cones up to 0,7 in length. The needles retain their color in the winter. It is so undemanding to the conditions of growth and frost that it will suit even the beginning gardener. Due to its shape, it can be used everywhere - alone, in compositions and hedges.
Thuya 'Hoseri' - a charming dark green bead, a dwarf variety - in its adult state its height is 40 - 50 cm. It prefers fertile soils. Withstands dry period, frost-resistant. The best option for use in small gardens, rockeries, rock gardens.
Thuya folded
This tree is up to 75 m in height with a pyramidal or conical crown. The branches are horizontal and slightly drooping, shoots are flat. The bark is reddish-brown. Needles on the upper side of the shoots are glossy-green, on the bottom - with whitish stripes. Cones oblong-oval, length 10 - 12 cm.
Let's make an obligatory accent: this thuja is for those who live south of the Moscow region, since in winter the plant can freeze. However, the places damaged by frost will be restored, the plant will not die, but during the recovery period the appearance will not be very decorative. There are a lot of varieties, the most interesting, from our point of view, are:
Thuya 'Kornik' - an even column, it grows rather quickly, in an adult state 2,5 - 3 m, diameter - up to 1,5 m. This plant is somewhat capricious, prefers fertile and moist places. It does not tolerate high temperatures and needs constant moderate watering. Suitable for hedges and compositions.
Thuya 'Zebrina' - grows rapidly, in an adult state 12-15, in shape similar to a loose haystack, needles are striped. Requires sunny or slightly shaded places, undemanding to the conditions of growth, but needs regular watering. It is well-cut, quickly restored, but at the same time it loses its striped color. Very suitable for solitary or accentuated plantings.
Photo 1: Thuya folded. Photo 2: Thuya West
Kennels
The active development of the domestic market of planting material and the creation of private nurseries of ornamental plants for the past ten years has allowed to expand the varietal spectrum of thuja and made their purchase affordable for amateur gardeners and professional market operators. There were 16 varieties of t. Western alone in the spring assortment of the Yuzhny decorative culture nursery (trees: 'Brabant', 'Globosa Compacta', 'Globosa', 'Golden Smaragd', 'Yellow Ribbon', 'Columna', 'Pyramidalis Compacta ',' Sunkist '.' Smaragd ',' Holmstrup '; shrubs:' Woodwardii ',' Golden Globe ', Danica', Teddy ', etc.).
Currently in the Moscow region there are about 35 professional nurseries, members of the Association of Producers of Planting Material, in which to a greater or lesser extent the decorative planting material, including thuja, is represented. A good tone among professional nurseries is the inclusion in price lists descriptions of varieties, external characteristics, prices, which definitely allows buyers to make the right choice.
See also: Growing of dwarf conifers on the site
Acquisition of Tui
In order to buy thuya, you first need to decide - what exactly you want (general tips for choosing and buying seedlings for the garden read in this article). Then it should appear where the plants are sold, but we warn you - never buy anything at the "plant disintegration", even if conveniently located along the road to the dacha. Do not be lazy to change the route a little, turning from the road towards the nursery. For those who do not see the difference, we will explain - any nursery guarantees the following parameters: the purity of the variety, the health and viability of the plant, its zoning (that is, the variety for this climate, but for growing under greenhouse conditions), resistance to pests and diseases.
Nothing like this will be offered to you on the "collapse". There, very often traded on the principle: "I sold something, I do not know what, and where I got it, I do not know either."
When choosing a tree in the nursery, follow these rules: the specimen should like its appearance and shape; the presence of any weed grass in the pot with the plant indicates that it grew or wintered in Russia (for the imported specimens) and did not lose its qualities (healthy, living).
If you have any questions - contact a specialist of the nursery, you will be told in detail about the selected species and variety. When buying a large plant, you should not save on delivery and try to shove it into your car - the landing material that you have broken will not be accepted back, so it's better to ask the large-scale truck to be delivered to your site by truck.
Planting of thuja
And now Tuya safely got to your garden site, which means that it should be planted. First of all, the plant should be well watered, and if landing is immediately impossible, it should be placed in the shade. Choose a suitable permanent place: the sun should be only one half of the day, otherwise because of constant direct sunlight the plant can dehydrate or get winter frost damage. Then dig a hole 60 deep - 80 cm and with the same diameter (if planting a thuju as a single plant or in a free composition). If you have a large copy in a large container, then the pit size should be at 20 cm larger than the container on each side. A turfy ground with the addition of peat and sand is best suited, although thuja will grow in any other soils - sandy loamy, loamy, even marshy - without any problems.
When grouping this coniferous breed, you must maintain the distance between the trees. It ranges from 1 to 5 m, namely: when planting an ordinary single-row hedge - 1 meter; with two-row hedges - up to 2 m; when planting large species of thuja in the alley - up to 5 meters. Do not forget that the trees will grow not only in height, but also in width.
Planting thuju it is desirable in the spring, though, if all actions were performed correctly, the plant will well tolerate planting at any time of the year. When growing the culture in containers or tubs it is better to use a substrate of peat and fertile soil with the addition of organic fertilizers - 30-50 g per 10l of soil. Mandatory condition for planting - do not bury the root neck. As the tuya grew, at the same level with respect to the surface of the soil it must be planted. Deepened - begins to rot and die, planted high - will dry and again perish. Always remember this!
Reference by topic: Conifers in the country - it's all about the cones
Thuya: care
Tui is already planted and happy, now we will make every effort to ensure that this remains the same.
If the landing has been made in the right place, then the tuya will require only the very minimum of care.
If the groundwater is high on the site, then the tuya can do without irrigation at all.
You need to fertilize once a year (preferably in the spring). At this time, you should feed the tree with mineral fertilizers or organic matter at the rate of 35 - 50 g / m2.
If fertilizer was laid in the planting pit, there is no need to fertilize the next two years of vegetation.
Now a very large selection of balanced fertilizers specifically for coniferous trees and shrubs, you only need to visit the garden products department in the nursery and purchase them.
After planting, in the first month, water thuja once a week for 10 liters. If the weather is dry, a little rainy then twice and twenty liters per bush. If you water enough thuya, the crown will be thick and the needles bright.
If the earth is dry, the crown will begin to thin out, and the needles will acquire a yellowish shade. The plant responds very well to sprinkling the crown in hot weather, but it needs to be done strictly after sunset to avoid burns of needles.
Usually weeding and loosening the soil is combined, but the loosening should be shallow (up to 5 cm) and not frequent, because the root system of the tuja is near the ground. Therefore, it is best to conduct weeding with a slight loosening a month after planting and to cover up the ground in the near-barrel circle. As a mulch, you can use wood chips (there is color), bark or walnut shell - when buying thuya in the nursery ask what is available for mulching. Also, thuja should be cleaned from dry shoots, it should be done in the spring.
In any planting in the first two winters, the plant (regardless of age and size) must be protected by any of the concealed materials offered in the garden centers, so that it is not drained by wind or burnt by the sun. Sometimes there are specially tailored covers for hiding coniferous plants. The period for shelter - from 20 January to 10 February, remove the covers in cloudy weather, when the soil in the trunk circle rolls to the full depth (bayonet bayonet).
With the proper execution of these simple actions, thuya will please not only you, but your grandchildren, as this is one of the long-standing plants.
Thuja occidentalis - benefit and harm, recipes from the herbalist
Cultivation
In the shade, it grows poorly, prefers the penumbra; The landing site must be protected from the north wind.
Young thuisas cover for winter, and with age it is enough to mulch the near-trunk circle.
It grows practically on all types of soils, the main thing - without stagnation of water.
Watering - regular, but moderate. In the first year after planting, watered weekly.
If, during the planting of thui, fertilizers were introduced into the planting pit, the next fertilizing is in 2 years.
Shear in the spring, cutting at a time not more than a third of the length of the shoot.
Recipes with thuja
When diseases of the genitourinary sphere (especially effective in pyelonephritis), mix 1 st.l. birch buds and the rhizome of medicinal asparagus, peppermint leaves, according to 3 st.l. herbs of common oregano and sporass (mountain bird), 1,5 st.l. herb St. John's wort and flax seeds, according to 2 st.l. leaves of parsley garden, shoots of thuja western. Fill with 2 Tbsp. collect 0,5 l boiling water in a thermos bottle, leave for a day, strain and drink a third of the glass 2-3 once a day an hour after eating. Take on 2 st.l. 3-4 times a day 2 a week, after an 5-day break you can drink another month. Drink broth with a therapeutic purpose can be throughout the year with breaks for rest; with preventive - in the spring and autumn.
When urolithiasis (during colic attacks), take the collection by mixing 5 st.l. rhizome rootgrass creeping, 10 st.l. grass parsley garden, according to 6 art. l. shoots of thuja western, leaves of peppermint, currant black, herb St. John's wort, fruit of wild rose, according to 8 st.l. stalk of corn, common cowberry, horsetail grass, 5-6 st.l. (without a slide), pour in 1 l of boiling water in a thermos for the night. This is the daily dose in the first period of treatment, the course of which is 14-20 days.
Then reduce the dosage: 3 st.l. Collect 0,5 l l boiling water in a thermos for the night. The course of treatment is 30 days, then take a break for 10-15 days and repeat the treatment.
Contraindications Tui
Pregnancy, epilepsy.
TUYA - LANDING AND CARE: TIPS AND FEEDBACK
GOLDEN TOUI BEAUTIES
I made friends with thuja long ago and far from home. Previously, we did not have a summer residence, we rested, as they say now, in the south. It was there that I met beautiful cypress. This is my favorite tree, I just adore its harmony and beauty. And 30 years ago we got a plot along the Riga highway, at the clearings, only 6 acres. Earth is clay, huge roots stick out. I had to burn them. For every stump, I promised my husband barbecue.
Walking somehow at VDNH, I saw there junipers and thuja and decided to plant them on my site. I bought seeds, sowed, but not a single seed rose. And then we went with my husband to the Vagankovskoye cemetery to remove the grave of my parents, and I saw a woman selling either a juniper or small tuja with an open root system. Of course, I was glad and bought five pieces. Unfortunately, not a single tree has survived.
Time passed, the land was ennobled - they brought in sand, earth, burned stumps (again, ash). A fence appeared instead of ropes, forest daisies, a dining table, a shed for storing tools, etc. But the idea of thujas did not leave me, and five years later, when we built a house, I bought and planted four thujas, 20 cm each, along the path. I planted it on bad land - construction waste. The only thing I did was water and irrigate in the heat from the sun. By the way, I can water all the plants during the day - both roses and clematis, of which I have a lot. I also have an infusion of herbs in the greenhouse, but this is only for feeding tomatoes and cucumbers.
Tui took root and grew beautifully. But I noticed that it becomes cramped, and one transplanted to the fence. She was already six years old, she thought she would not get used to it, but it did manage to grow. Under the fence I have 10 green tuya.
The son of my friend Sasha Sobolev is a biologist. They have an old cottage, and he, having learned that we are arranging the plot, presented us with a small golden tuechka. Due to the fact that we immediately poorly planned the site, this tuechka had to. Peres live from place to place several times, but she survived. Now this is a big golden beauty (photo 1), I gave her this form for a change.
I learned to breed thuja both green and golden, they generally take root perfectly. I myself form them, without any stencils - so, by eye. But now all our neighbors have acquired thuja.
And between the thujas we planted yellow lilies, it's very beautiful. When watering lilies, something goes to thuja. Twice twice a summer, there is a special saw.
When I plant everything, I take up thuja (end of June). I give the form myself, as I wrote - cut off the tops with a hat so that they do not grow too tall and shaggy. Trees stand like monoliths, even birds arrange nests there. Previously, we tied the arborvitae for the winter and covered it a little on the south side (they burn from the sun), but this year, due to circumstances, I did nothing, and it was icy rain. In winter, we don’t go to the cottage, so now spring will show everything.
On order and as a gift
When I cut the thuja, long branches (20-25 cm) come across, and if necessary, I can cut several branches from the bottom - with and without heel. I collect these branches and stick them under the apple tree on the north side, there can be 5-6 of them. I water with plain water. And forget it. I myself no longer need them, this is for those who ask. They grow there for a year, two, three - I remember when one of the neighbors comes and asks. Sometimes I plant these little tunics in a pot and give birthday presents to men from our street — they are very satisfied, and I am pleased. I have 20 thuja and junipers myself, and the Cossack juniper has grown so much that now I cut it in the fall and cover them with roses for the winter.
The air at the dacha is divine!
Coming there, I can not breathe. Of course, our land is not as fertile as in Ukraine, but you can still grow absolutely everything and turn your piece of land into an earthly paradise. I call on all dacha owners to take care of the land and make their land beautiful, and the conifers will help you in this. Care for them is minimal, and they will treat you with their healing air.
BREEDING THUY: WINTER SHEARING
For several years I have been breeding thuy cuttings at home. And February is the most suitable time for this.
In clear weather, from the side branches I tear off the cuttings 7-15 cm long, necessarily together with the heel - this piece of wood is needed for rooting (if it turned out to be long, I prune it a little, otherwise the stem can rot). And then everything is very simple ...
From the bottom of the cut cut the pine needles and drop the twigs into the solution of Epin (2 drops at 0,5 water station) for 12 hours (photo 1).
While the cuttings are soaked, I pour the moss-sphagnum with water. After a couple of minutes I take it out, lightly squeeze it and lay it on a disposable diaper (I buy it in a pharmacy).
I take the cuttings out of the solution, the base of each is carefully pressed in Kornevin's powder (thanks to the root stimulant, cuttings will be allowed to root faster). Then I put them on the moss and cover it with a half cloth. I fold the fabric into a roll and bandage it with an elastic band (photo 2).
For successful rooting cuttings need enough light. Therefore put the roll in a transparent t-shirt and hang it on the window frame (but it is important that the plants do not get direct sunlight!).
If necessary, moisturize. By April, cuttings should take root. As the soil warms up, I plant them in the open ground to grow. And through 1-2 years - to a permanent place.
FACT: ABOUT YOUNG FORMATION ON YOUR ROOT SYSTEM, YOUNG NEEDLES VARIOUS IN THE BASIS OF THE PLANT CERTIFY.
© Author: Natalia POSKREBKO
FIVE TUI SETTLEMENT RULES
Site Selection
The plant likes a well-lit area. In the shade, the thuja becomes less lush, thinning. Only I avoid places in the draft.
Depth of landing
Depending on the size of the root system, the depth of planting varies from 60 to 80 cm, the diameter of the pit is up to 1 m.
soil
Conifers prefer light sandy or loamy soil. On the heavy drainage is needed - broken brick, rubble, expanded clay (to fall asleep on the bottom of the landing pit in a layer of 7-10 cm). From above drainage sprinkled with a mixture of peat, sand and earth (2: 1: 1). If thuju plant in the spring (before bud budding), I add a nitroammophosco to the soil mix (500 g per seedling).
Landing
Saplings with a closed root system are planted throughout the season, with open - early spring. I make sure that the root neck is at the level of the soil surface.
If the plant is sloughed or, on the contrary, heavily elevated above the ground, it can dry out.
Watering
In the first month after planting, thuju watered about once a week (the norm of water for one seedling is at least 10 L). Another tuja loves sprinkling (especially in drought), so I pour plants from the hose from above.
Olga STARTSEVA, Saint-Petersburg
I AM IN UKRAINIAN IN POTTLES
In February, rooted cuttings of conifers in pots with a diameter of about 15 cm, filled with a mixture of peat, garden soil, sand and crushed coniferous bark (1: 1: 1: 1). I plant 5-7 cuttings in each container, deepening them by 2,5-3 cm. I cover the pots with a cropped plastic bottle (to create a certain microclimate) and put it near the window. The temperature in the room should be at the level of + 17 ... + 19 degrees. I regularly spray the soil in the pots with spray water.
Alexandra Razumovskaya, Podolsk
WHY DOES A LOT OF BONES FORM ON THERE?
On one of my arborvitae this year, a lot of fruiting has formed, which is not the best way affects the decorativeness of the plant. Is it possible to ensure that these conifers do not form cones in large numbers?
Elizaveta Vladislavovna FEDOROVICH
Interesting thing: from some plants we want to get more seeds, others strive to refuse fruiting. Along the way, I note that thuja perfectly reproduce by seeds, so that their cones can very well be “attached” with advantage.
But if a question is asked, and for sure there will be many summer residents and owners of personal plots who believe that coniferous fruiting spoils their appearance, I will try to answer it.
Drought and fertilizer are to blame
Let's recall the concept of fatliquoring of plants. In relation to vegetable crops, it, of course, has a negative character, and we strive in every way to get rid of this phenomenon, when a plant spends energy on building up vegetative mass to the detriment of flowering and fruiting. But in this case, in order to decorate the site, this feature can be used.
The thuja, about which the author writes, is in the so-called generative phase (its priority is fruiting). This often happens in drought conditions. Under stress, the plant is in a hurry to acquire offspring, which will continue the genus in case of its death. Drought, by the way, can be artificial when thujas are not watered or irrigated very sparingly, believing that they themselves can get water from the depths of the earth. But, as you know, these conifers have a rather superficial root system, so they require regular hydration.
The abundant fruiting is also caused by the introduction of a significant amount of potash fertilizers.
Chew!
To transfer the plant to the vegetative phase, characterized by an increase in the mass of the crown, it is necessary, abandoning potassium compositions, to apply mainly nitrogen fertilizers. However, by early August, all dressings should be stopped so as not to provoke the growth of new shoots that do not have time to mature before the onset of cold weather.
To this it is worth adding abundant watering and protection from direct sunlight: it is enough to cover the thaw with non-woven material in the very heat, preferably black.
I want to note that the plant will not be rebuilt immediately, it may take a couple of seasons so that the “program” aimed at bearing fruit changes.
In parallel with this, it is worthwhile to engage in the formation of the crown of the conifer with cutting off a significant part of the fruit. After the haircut, the sleeping buds wake up on the thuja, as a result of which new shoots will grow, which will be facilitated by nitrogen.
Note
Cutting of conifers is best planned in the spring, until the plant has decided how to develop it: according to the "program" of fruiting or according to the "plan" of growing vegetative mass. At the same time, last year's shoots must be cut off by no more than a third. In summer - from late June to mid-July - the haircut can be repeated.
Thuja variety selection
The tendency to bear fruit is also determined by the type of plant. So, in the columnar thuja Smaragd, infertility is formed in a smaller amount than, say, in the Brabant variety. At the same time, the latter species is characterized by faster growth of shoots, which makes it more acceptable for creating hedges. But you have to come to terms with the fact that it will be strewn with bumps, which, once again I express my opinion, may well be decorative. The agronomist answered the reader's question
© Author: Dmitry Petrovich MEZIN, Bryansk
THU SPHERICAL DANIKA
Insanely beautiful variety of thuja. Grows in the form of a ball, is a very non-standard decoration of the garden and the garden. This plant with a dense rounded crown up to 80 cm high and about a meter in diameter belongs to dwarf forms. It will look great near the alpine hill, among the flowering perennials and stone decor of flower beds. A great exit for places where there is no way to plant full trees.
It is interesting
Such arborvitae are durable. With decent care, like other varieties, it is able to reach the age of 150 years.
Such a thuja is almost invisible, rarely brown round cones appear on it. She loves the sun, so you need to plant it where she fully enjoys its rays. Protect the bush from the wind. Plant thawed at least 50 cm from other plants.
Thuja Danica does not need special pruning, but she needs a standard one. First of all, old, dead or incorrectly sprouted branches should be cut.
Sanitary pruning is carried out in early spring. During her:
- dry branches are removed;
- cut branches broken by wind or snow;
- sheared with needles, dried up by the bright spring sun.
Outwardly, such a thuja looks very unusual and original, so that it will definitely become a non-standard decoration of any garden.
IF TUYA turns yellow and dries up, then she has 5 reasons
Tui in landscape design can amaze with their colors, the shape of the crowns, and with a skillful approach, real masterpieces are obtained from these plants. But only if the needles are healthy. Otherwise, you will get the opposite effect - the feeling of an unkempt and unkempt area. Why can the color of the needles change in thuja? Here are some reasons.
Lack of dressings
If the needles have become pale green, but the annual growth is normal, young shoots are developing well, most likely, this is chlorosis - a lack of trace elements. Mostly iron and magnesium. I feed the plants in early spring and early summer with iron chelate (according to the instructions). I compensate for the lack of magnesium with a solution of potassium magnesium (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). By the way, magnesium will not hurt for prevention purposes (in April): a sufficient amount of this element in the soil gives the needles a bright green color.
Yellowing of the needles, a small increase, frail young shoots - this is a signal of a lack of nitrogen. Top dressing with any nitrogen fertilizer will help (you can apply until mid-July).
У needles reddish purple tint?
Thuja lacks phosphorus. In this case, in June-July, I close up double superphosphate (2 tablespoons) in the near-stem circle for loosening, then water the plant.
Seasonal changes
In winter, due to frost, the color of the needles at Tui Brabant and Columna acquires a bronze tint. In the spring, with the beginning of sap flow, the color will be restored. You can help thujas by feeding them magnesium.
Inappropriate landing site
Thuja lacks moisture in sandy soil. Therefore, peat and humus (compost) must be added to the planting pit in equal parts. And in the clay area, the thuja will suffer from stagnant water. In this case, drainage is necessary.
Pets tags
Due to the urine of cats and dogs, leaving marks on the plant itself and in the near-stem circle, the needles turn black. You can try to spray the lower branches with Antigadin spray. Or enclose the thuja with a fence made of non-woven material to the height of the marks.
Diseases and pests
Due to the defeat of diseases and pests, the needles acquire a brown or gray color. In rare cases, I cut off heavily damaged branches. But I try to prevent troubles: for the purpose of prevention, in April and October I spray evergreens with 1% Bordeaux liquid (100 g per 10 l of water).
© Author: Olga BABCHUK, Moscow region, Yandex-Zen Posad
SAVING TUI - IF TUI BLACKED NEEDLES
My thuja needles turn brown in places, then black dots appear. And in the neighbor's bark, cracks formed in some places, from which resin oozes. What's the matter? How to save plants?
Olga Smolyakova, Pskov
- If the thuja are properly planted (the root neck is not deepened, there is enough space for the roots), you take care of them (they have enough light, water, food) and no pests are found on them, the symptoms described indicate the presence of an infection. I'll tell you about the main diseases. Please note that all of these drugs are used strictly according to the instructions, given the air temperature favorable for processing.
TUI DISEASES IN THE TABLE - DESCRIPTION OF SYMPTOMS AND NAME
PATHENGER | SYMPTOMS | TREATMENT |
INFECTIONS AFFECTING THE NEEDLE AND/OR TUI SHOOTS | ||
Mushroom Didymascella thujina | The needles on the shoot become beige-brown in places. After a while, small, almost black areas appear on it - apothecia, which contain ascospores. | For prevention and treatment (after all diseased needles are removed), the preparations "Agrolekar" and "Ordan MC" are used. |
Mushroom Kabatina thujae | Symptoms are similar to the previous disease, but in this case, the disease affects all the needles on the shoot and it turns brown. Then black dots (apothecia) appear at the base of the needles, while in the first case, signs can appear on separate parts of the needles of one branch. | A partial effect on the disease is exerted by drugs based on mancozeb (Ordan MC) and thiophanate-methyl (Topsin M) |
Mushroom Pestalotiopsis funerea | More often affects weakened plants. The disease manifests itself in the lower part of the crown on young needles, capturing areas from the periphery to the center of the shoot. Needles gradually turn yellow, then become dark brown, almost black | Affected shoots are cut to healthy tissue and the plants are treated with copper-containing preparations. |
CANCER DISEASES OF THE STEM AND BRANCHES OF TUI | ||
Mushrooms of the genus Seiridium or Botryosphaeria | Cracks appear on the bark, which grow into deep, sometimes grinding ulcers. In places of active growth of the fungus inside the plant, sometimes you can notice abnormal thickening of the trunk or branches. The needles gradually turn brown and die. When opening the affected areas, dark-colored wood is visible on the cut. | There are no drugs for treatment. Cut out the affected areas with a margin of 3-4 cm of healthy wood.
Copper-containing preparations are used to protect healthy plants. |
ROT OF ROOTS AND WOOD OF TUI | ||
Mushrooms of the genus Phytophthora or Armillaria | The needles become pale, and then gray-brown. The disease spreads from bottom to top. In the later stages, the roots rot and break off easily. As a result, the plant dies | Conifers should be removed immediately and the soil where it grew should be replaced. For prevention, shed neighboring specimens 1-2 times with Sporobacterin (1 g / 0 l of water), Trichoderma Veride (10 g / 30 l) or Trichocin (1 g / 0 l) |
© Author: Nadezhda FLOSS, Ph.D. biol. Sci., phytopathologist, author of the telegram channel fitododoc_fljoss, Moscow
SAVE TABLE PICTURE
© Author: N. Brygina. Landscaping architect of the nursery Yuzhny
GROW THUYA FROM SEEDS
From the seeds, strong seedlings are obtained, which develop quite quickly. In 2 years they grow up to 50 cm, and then give an increase of 30 cm per season, besides, you will get a lot of seedlings!
What to do? I collect unopened cones in late August - early September (in the park or from my neighbors in the country). I lay them out on paper and clean them in a dry place.
As soon as they dry, I shake out the seeds and plant them in the ground.
The longer the seeds lie at room temperature, the lower the germination will be.
Then you need to choose a place for seedlings. Partial shade is better so that direct sunlight does not fall on tender shoots.
The soil. Mix garden soil with peat and sand in a ratio of 2: 4: 1. Level the bed, compact it well. Make grooves at a distance of 5-6 cm. Their depth is 2 cm and a width of 1 cm. Spread the seeds evenly at a distance of 1 cm. Cover with earth and slap the soil with your hand or a plank. If the soil is dry, then water. Then cover with a film or other covering material.
In the spring, I made sure that the material did not touch the soil. When the seedlings appear, they will not have scaly needles, but after 2-3 months they become like thuja.
Feed with mineral fertilizers after 2-3 weeks.
After the second wintering, plant seedlings in a permanent place. When planting, the root neck should be at the level of the soil. If you cover it with earth, the plant will begin to rot, turn yellow and may die. Water and mulch after planting.
Do not forget to water and feed the plants, as well as loosen the soil.
Antonina Zakharyina, p. Kapyrevshchina, Smolensk region
CARE OF THE THUI - VIDEO
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Thuja can be taken from cuttings quite easily, as well as juniper. Once I cut them out for landscape compositions and received seedlings. Since I took cuttings with a reserve, I didn’t use everything. The remains grew in containers on the ground, and in a couple of seasons they turned into lush Christmas trees.
This is how the idea of using them as Christmas trees was born. Why buy all sorts of araucarias and cypress trees if there is such a beautiful analogue! Now we decorate them like New Year trees, and this year we want to temporarily move one live thuja in a container into the house for the holiday. Then we'll go back to the garden. Unless, of course, it dries out in the apartment. It is possible that this specimen can be used many times as a Christmas tree.
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Of all the conifers on the site, I like the spherical thuja most of all, which has been growing for several years. She decorates the flower bed near the house, sitting among tiger lilies, daylilies, miniature roses and subulate phloxes.
I chose an open sunny place for her. When planting in the hole, I added a little moss and bark.
Basic care
I water the thuja moderately in the heat.
I mulch the soil every spring with sawdust and not much hay.
In May, I feed with humus or infusion of grass. I fill a 10-liter bucket halfway with weeds, fill it with water to the brim of the container and insist for several days. I filter before use. In June or July I use "Organic Mix" for conifers (according to the instructions) or "Healthy Garden" (5 caps per 8 liters of water).
During the summer, I cut the shoots, maintaining a rounded shape of the crown.
I do not cover for the winter.
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The most open and hottest area is not suitable for thuja, but she will not like the full shade either. The ideal place is in openwork penumbra.
When planting in the hole, moss and bark do not need to be added. There will be no harm from them, but there will be no particular benefit either. It is better to replace these components with coniferous litter.
Watering is necessary not only in the hottest time. During long periods of drought from May to the end of September, thuja is also moistened at least twice a month.
Hay is not quite suitable as tree mulch. It is better to replace it with the same coniferous litter.
From top dressing, I would recommend excluding humus. Enough mineral fertilizers that you use.
For the winter, it is still better to cover the thuja with a layer of spunbond or burlap. This will protect her from drying out and sunburn.
Nikolai CHROMOV
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Several years ago, without experience, I planted thuja eastern Aureya Nana and larch on a trunk (1-1,5 m high) too close to each other. Now the thuja has grown under 1,7 m and covers all the beauty of the larch, moreover, it has lost the needles from the neighbor's side. Tell me which is better: to make topiary pruning of thuja (spherical or cone) or transplant larch? What is the right time frame for this and will new needles grow?
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- In this case, it is better to seat the neighbors. To cut the way you want, you need to cut more than half of the crown, and it is permissible for plants to "lose" no more than 30% of the total volume per year. Pruning will have to be carried out in stages - over several years. Growing up, larch will still begin to shade the thuja
- and she will "go bald". " It is not possible to transplant conifers until September - in the summer they will not be able to safely transfer this procedure.
Transplant wisely
In autumn, preferably in rainy weather, dig up the larch with a large lump of earth very carefully so as not to destroy it. Pour water into the prepared hole and lower the plant, fill it with soil. It is strictly forbidden to deepen the root collar of the tree - this will lead to its death! Water liberally after planting and continue to moisturize as much as possible until frost. Around the planting pit, you can make a low roller of the ground so that water does not spread over the surface. Dilute "Kornevin" in 1 liters of water for irrigation once every 2-10 weeks - the drug will help speed up the growth of new root hairs.
Aftercare
Next year, be sure to water the larch so that the entire root ball is soaked. To do this, leave a hose with oozing water next to the plant in the evening for several hours or even overnight: the earth will be deeply saturated, and the larch will take root.
The "bald patch" "of the thuja will gradually begin to grow over with new branches. Unlike deciduous, conifers take longer to restore the crown. Spraying with a solution of a mixture of drugs will help speed up the process: "Ferovit" (1,5 ml / 1 l of water) + "Epin-Extra" (0,2 ml / 1 l of water) - once every 2 weeks.
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Thuya turned red ...
What happened to my Teddy thuja (pictured)? After wintering, the plant looked good. Treated it with growth stimulants Epin Extra and Ferovit. And then the thuja unexpectedly "crumbled", and the needles inside turned yellow. I tried to clean off this "rust - it does not work." Maybe you should tie the crown?
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- Tuya received a severe sunburn. The affected needles can no longer be saved. Your task is to stimulate the growth of young shoots and their rapid overgrowth with needles. Loosen the trunk circle slightly and feed with a fertilizer solution with a high nitrogen and potassium content (1 liter per 10 liters of water). And immediately mulch the soil with crushed bark or peat chips, or even better - with coniferous litter from the forest.
Gently comb the crown with your hands so that the yellowed and dry branches crumble, and then cut out the reddened shoots. You do not need to tie the crown. It is better to treat again with growth stimulants Ferovit and Epin Extra (according to the instructions).
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An adult thuja grows in the shade of the house, the needles fall off, most likely, the soil in this place is acidic. What plants can be planted next to it to make a flower garden or decorative composition?
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- Based on my experience, I can say that needles that periodically fall off one thuja, even a large one, will not be able to greatly change the acidity of the soil.
For light shade or partial shade (if the sun still peers into this corner for a while) with slightly acidic or close to neutral soils, hosts, bergenia, geraniums, geychera, tenaciousness, purse, hydrangeas are suitable. You can also "adhere" to ferns, tiarella, violets, lily of the valley, kupenu, yarnotka. For the solidity of the composition, I advise you to plant other decorative varieties of western thuja, as well as forms of junipers, fir trees.
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How many beautiful words have been said about this tree, and they all correspond to reality. It is even easier to breathe next to the thuja! This evergreen tree is beautiful in summer and winter. Several thujas of different ages grow in my front garden.
In early spring, they throw out small, very beautiful fragrant cones. They can be pickled like birch buds. In autumn, they turn brown, and these cones, in which the seeds are located, can be planted. I collect them, put them on the table in a glass, or you can put a candle there.
I advise all gardeners to start a thuja on the site. Information about its medicinal properties can be found on the Internet. Thuja tincture has now appeared in pharmacies.
Growing her is not difficult at all! I take a pot, pour drainage and soil from the site. Then I sow the seeds collected in the fall - I cover the cones with soil for conifers and water them.
In winter, this pot stands on the windowsill, and in spring, needles of greenery appear from the ground. After a while, they turn into a thuja twig.
In this way, you can also grow a date palm (I have already tried it) from the stone of a purchased date. Good luck everyone, and don't be afraid to experiment!
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I bought a beautiful western thuja in a container, but I'm afraid that I don't have time to plant it on the site in autumn. Does the seedling overwinter in a container?
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- Thuja should be planted in open ground no later than mid-September (if autumn is warm, then until the 20th of the month). Then, before the onset of cold weather, it will have time to take root and take root. But it is best to do this in spring, in April, when there are least risks for plants. Do not have time to plant now, do not worry - western thuja winters well in the garden in a container. The main thing is to properly prepare it for the cold weather. Without waiting for severe frosts, wrap the container with a thick non-woven material and place a piece of thick board under it. Later, make sure that not only the container is covered with snow, but also a layer of at least 20 cm lies on the soil surface.
You can also dig the thuja directly into the container so that it is completely in the ground. Then mulch with peat and cover the whole plant with spunbond or burlap. In the spring, in April, you just need to dig up the plant and transplant it to a permanent place.
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When and how to plant thuja correctly so that they do not die (there is a sad experience)? What is the best place for them?
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- In the middle lane, the western thuja and its forms are grown - they can decorate an alpine hill, a rocky, heather and Japanese garden, a retaining wall, a slope, the edge of a forest corner, a walking path and even the shore of a reservoir. The place should be sunny or not more than half a day in the shade. Remember, parts of the crown that will touch (shade) with other plants will become bare over time.
It can be planted from late August to mid-September (bare roots).
Thuja prefers medium loam, moderately nutritious, slightly acidic.
If the soil is heavy clayey, light sandy or clean peat, you need to improve: a) add sand (1, 5-2 buckets / sq.m); b) clay soil (1 wedge / m2) and peat (3-1 wedges / m5); c) clay in powder form (2 buckets / sq. m); sand (3-5 buckets / m10), lime (depending on the acidity of the soil), compost (XNUMX-XNUMX l / mXNUMX).
ADVICE
In the prepared hole, spread the roots evenly (for container seedlings, the bottom layer of the coma must be “tousled”). Lift the tree so that the root collar is 2-3 cm above ground level.
Fill with prepared soil and compact the soil with your hands, just do not squeeze it near the trunk. Thuja will settle a little with the ground, and the root collar will be flush with the horizon. You cannot deepen it.
After watering, it is better to immediately mulch the soil in the trunk circle with pine bark and wood chips. But at the root collar (10-12 cm in diameter), cover the ground by no more than 1 cm or not cover it at all.
Galina SINOGEYKINA, Cand. agricultural sciences, Barnaul
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Collecting thuja cones
In late August and early September, I collect unopened thuja cones (earlier - in city parks, now - from my trees). I lay it out on paper and dry it. As soon as the cone opens, I shake out the seeds and immediately sow (the longer they lie, the worse their germination). I mix garden soil with peat and sand (2: 4: 1), level and compact the garden bed. I make grooves every 5-6 cm, 2 cm deep and 1 cm wide. I evenly spread the seed at a distance of 1 cm from each other, sprinkle it with a layer of earth about 1 cm on top and press it lightly with my hand. If it's dry, I water the soil, then cover the crops with foil. In the spring, in the process of melting the snow, I put pegs under the film so that it does not touch the ground. With the emergence of seedlings, I remove the shelter. Once a month I feed it with a solution of complete mineral fertilizer (according to the instructions). I will definitely shade from the sun.
To a permanent place
After the next wintering, I plant the seedlings in a semi-shady place. I pre-dig the site, scattering a bucket of humus, 45 g of nitrophosphate and 250 g of wood ash per 1 sq. M. When planting, I leave the root collar at ground level.
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So that thuja do not turn yellow
Every year, the neighbors' thuja turn yellow, and mine are green. I share the secrets of care.
When planting in a pit, I definitely add crushed eggshells (no matter how much I feel), but first I cover the bottom with drainage from broken bricks or small stones. This will strengthen the root system by directing the lateral shoots to grow in width. Then the thuja will be more resistant to strong wind gusts.
Thuja should not be planted in an acidic substrate, otherwise the roots will quickly rot. The needles will turn light green. And the annual growth will be very small.
The plant does not tolerate stagnant water. I water the thuja as the earth dries up and only in the evening after sunset (then all the essential oils that are formed on the trunk after watering will release their aroma into the air).
From ticks and rust, I spray thuja with chamomile infusion (pour 1 kg of dry crushed inflorescences and leaves with 10 liters of hot (60-80 degrees) water, leave for a day under a lid, strain, dilute with water 1: 4, adding 10- 40 g of shavings of laundry soap) and wormwood (dry 50 kg of raw materials, pour water in a saucepan to cover the plants, boil over low heat for 1 minutes, strain, bring the volume to 20 liters, adding 10 g of laundry soap).
If the tips of the branches turn yellow, then the roots are lacking in minerals. Can be fed with special fertilizer for conifers. I bring soil from the forest (I remove about 7 cm), with which I cover the trunk circle.
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A friend says that you need to water the thuja with acidified water (with the addition of 9% vinegar) a couple of times a season, because, in her opinion, conifers grow better on acidic soil. Is it true?
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- It is often thought that thujas, like pines and spruces, prefer an acidic environment. But this is not the case. Most varieties of western thuja, namely this species are more often used in landscaping, are tolerant to soil acidity (i.e., this indicator does not greatly affect the growth and development of the plant) or prefer a slightly alkaline soil. Therefore, it makes no sense to water the soil under them with a vinegar solution.
But for hydrangea, heather and rhododendron, this procedure is useful. Depending on the acidity of the soil on the site, water the plants once every 10 days or once every 1-2 months with a solution of 9% vinegar (100 ml / 10 l of water). Ammonium sulfate also acidifies the soil well (according to the instructions).
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For one of the holidays I was given a thuja in a pot. She was small, 20 centimeters in height. I really liked her, and I carefully looked after her. But after some time the tree began to wither. They tried to transplant - it did not help, fertilizers also did not give any result.
Then we decided to land it in the open ground: otherwise we could only throw it away. Our cottage is located on the Karelian Isthmus, the fertile layer is thin there, the soil is loam, and the climate is quite severe. But the thuja took root and began to grow! We planted it in the middle of a flower bed, not far from the house. (By the way, it’s better not to plant close to the house — snow falling from the roof can damage the branches.) 5 years have passed since then, and the thuja has grown into a fluffy tree of the correct form, even without additional crown formation.
In nature, thuja under favorable conditions can reach a height of 20-30 m, and its trunk - 180 cm in diameter.
Ekaterina Pozdnyakova, Leningrad Region
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How to quickly breed thuja
If you want to decorate your site with thuja and at the same time save on planting material, I suggest that you propagate the plant from cuttings yourself. And now is the right time for this lesson (second half of May - early June).
From the top of the arborvitae, Narva cuttings with a length of 10-20 cm - down from the trunk, with a piece of wood (the so-called "heel"). To disinfect, dip them in a pink potassium permanganate solution.
On the cuttings, remove the lower leaves, dust the “heels” with the root stimulant and plant them on a half-shade bed under arcs with agrofibre or film (or under “caps” from cut 5-liter bottles - remove the shelter after a couple of months). Plant to a depth of 2-5 cm at an angle of 3-40 degrees, squeezing with soil. And do not thicken: the cuttings should be well ventilated.
Water the plantings, in the future, monitor the moisture of the soil.
Transplant rooted plants into a permanent place in April next year.
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When and how best to cut thuja?
Alina Boyko, Volgograd
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Thuja forming pruning can be carried out from spring to autumn.
The first shaping haircut should be carried out at 3-4 year after planting the seedling. During this time, he will gain strength and gain strength, take root in a new place. It is better to start pruning from mid-summer until the fall. In the future, you only need to adjust the already given shape.
Before proceeding with pruning, it is necessary to study the shape of the tree and orient yourself on them. So that the plant does not experience severe stress, at a time you need to trim only the third suit of all branches. In autumn, correct an already formed crown.
For pruning, you can take garden shears and a pruner or hedge trimmer. Tools should be well sharpened and sharp so that there are no dents on the stems.
It is advisable to start pruning on a cloudy day. This will help to avoid the appearance of yellow and brown patches of needles. At the end of the procedure, the tree should be abundantly watered.
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I have a thuja growing on the site that is more than 20 years old. The height is about 8 m. I want to shorten it to 5 m and somehow give the crown a neater look. How to do it right? What time?
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- Tui is one of the most unpretentious and spectacular plants for landscape design. And to a large extent due to the fact that it responds well to trimming and molding cutting. These works should be carried out in early spring (March-April) or in the fall (early September). And be sure to choose a dry, clear day (in the rain and wet weather, you should not approach the tool with the tool).
Three cutting stages
1. If you are going to cut the center conductor, measure the height you need. Cut the tip under the nearest side branch from it, departing no more than 1,5 from this branch.
2. Then, for sanitary purposes, remove dry branches and those that thicken the crown with garden shears, so that you will ensure better air circulation and thereby reduce the possibility of plant infection with diseases and pests.
3. The last step - a decorative haircut to give shape to the crown. Trim the side branches about a third. All places slices immediately gloss over the garden pitch.
Mikhail NAUMOV, agronomist
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The better to feed thuja western?
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- To conifers remain in the "dress" of a saturated green color, I do not advise using a large amount of nutrient mixtures, especially with a high nitrogen content. Emphasis in fertilizing needs to be made on micro and macro elements as part of complex mineral or organic mineral fertilizers. Currently, the market is oversaturated with conifer fertilizers. The most common - WMD Conifers (organomineral). Bring it three times per season:
- spring (in April-early May);
- in the middle of summer;
-in early autumn (late August-early September).
On 1 sq. M, put 20-30 in soil, then pour plenty of water. In April and the beginning of May, it is possible to grind the tree trunk under a thuja of rotted manure (thickness 5-8 cm), slightly mixing it with the top layer of soil.
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Sometimes at the end of March, the street warms sharply, but the earth still does not have time to thaw out - such conditions are dangerous for conifers.
I read that at this time the needles are actively working (photosynthesis begins), evaporating moisture, and the roots are not yet able to extract it from the frozen soil. As a result, the plant is dehydrated. Now, to help my tuyam, as soon as the snow melts, the ground beneath them is well spilled with hot water. I do this once.
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In general, the actions are correct, but in the beginning of spring the complex care of conifers is important. As soon as the temperature rises above + 10 degrees, loosen the soil in the near-stem circle with minimal addition of the peat mixture, since the coniferous plants have a superficial root system.
In the spring of moisture plants, as a rule, enough. But additional watering does not hurt, especially on sandy soil, where water does not linger (1-2 buckets of warm water per plant in height 1-3 m). I also advise, as a preventive measure, to spray the aboveground part of the Bordeaux mixture (100 g per 10 l of water). After 10-12 days against diseases, spray the fungicide (Fundazol, HOM) according to the instructions. Re-water the thuja after 3-4 of the day with Epin or Zircon growth biostimulator. In the same period, you can hold molding pruning tui.
Mikhail NAUMOV
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In winter and summer - in different colors
After a haircut last year, my thuja pleased with lush greenery.
But at the end of the summer, red spots began to appear on the conifer tree and the branches began to fall. What is my favorite sick?
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Few people know that there are species of thuja that live for no more than six years, after which they first brighten and then begin to turn yellow and eventually die. Ryzhina usually appears around the trunk in the middle of the crown, which subsequently falls. This usually happens in late summer and autumn.
External influences
Conifers can be painted in golden-bronze, brown, brown in winter due to frost, air temperature drops, and in early spring also from sunburn.
Thuja can change color due to the fact that under it defecate the need of dogs and cats. In this case, the tree is covered with black bloom.
Improper care
Errors in choosing the place and time for planting, improperly carried out watering and top dressing can also become a cause of ill health. So, if the tree does not have enough moisture, or, conversely, in excess, the thuja starts to mope. It should be watered once a week, and immediately after planting - daily. No more than a bucket of water is poured under one tree. If you overdo it, stagnation of water for at least two weeks will lead to rotting of the roots and the appearance of fungal diseases. At the same time, with a lack of moisture, the thuja turns yellow and begins to dry out. But what thujah like, especially in the heat, is sprinkling. Ideal if you will have her showers in the evenings.
Prevention and treatment
In order to prevent and treat fungal diseases, the plant should be sprayed with copper-containing preparations (Bordeaux mixture, “HOM”, “Oxy”) or watered under the “Fundazole” root.
Council
Bordeaux liquid can be prepared independently. To obtain 10 l 1% solution will need 100 g of lime and copper sulfate. In glassware (in no way iron or plastic) in the 1 l of hot water (temperature to 50 degrees) the vitriol (copper sulfate) dissolves, the volume of the liquid is brought by adding cold water to 5 l. 8 other capacity diluted with hydrated lime (fluff), you can immediately 8 5 l of water at room temperature. The first liquid is carefully poured into the other (in no case the other way around), constantly stirring, filtered through two layers of gauze or old tights. This working solution can be used for preventive spraying every spring (during the growth of new needles) at the rate of 10 l / 100 square. m
It is also worth recalling that seasonal changes in coloring are characteristic of western and folded thuja. They become slightly brown varieties of European Tui Brabant and Columna. And only the Smaragd variety is not afraid of any frosts.
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Thujia cones
In late August and early September, I collect non-disclosed cones of thuja (formerly in urban parks, now from their trees). I spread it on paper and dried it. As soon as the cone opens, I shake out the seeds and immediately sow (I shovel the garden land with peat and sand (2: 4: 1), spread the seedbed and compact it. I make grooves through 5-6 cm with depth 2 cm and width 1 cm. uniformly seeds at a distance of 1 cm from each other, top with a layer of earth about 1 cm and sprinkle it with my hand.If dry, water the soil, then close the crops with film.
In the spring, in the process of melting snow under the film, I put pegs so that the shelter does not touch the ground. With the emergence of shoots remove the film.
Once a month I feed with a solution of full mineral fertilizer (according to the instructions). Necessarily pritenyayu from the sun. After the next wintering, the seedlings are planted in the penumbra. The site is pre-digested, scattering 1 bucket of humus, 45 g nitrofoski and 250 g wood ash per 1 sq.m. When planting, the root neck is left at ground level.
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A couple of years ago, my grandmother had a rest in the sanatorium of the Krasnodar Territory and brought from there seeds of thuya. At first I doubted that it was possible to grow a warmth-loving thuja from a seed at home, but my grandmother did, and now we have several seedlings. We dream with grannies to plant a whole hedge at the cottage.
Until spring, Grandma kept the seeds in a linen cloth in the fridge. In the spring, she mixed the sod land, peat, sand (1: 1: 2), filled the mixture in boxes and sowed the seeds of thuja to a depth of 1 cm. She sprayed the soil from the spray gun overhead, covered it with film and placed it on the windowsill. When sprouts appeared, she occasionally opened the film, and after about a month she completely removed it and transferred it to the balcony. The seedlings grew very slowly, and there was not even a question of planting it in the open ground in the same season. In autumn, the grandmother planted a dozen of the strongest sprouts in separate pots. 1 once a month in water for irrigation it added fertilizer for conifers. By spring the seedlings reached about 10 cm in height.
In early summer, Granny planted seedlings under the cherry trees in the open ground every 30 cm, not burrowing the root neck. On the bed before this brought 1 bucket of humus, a handful of ammophoski and 2 a glass of wood ash. In the next spring, if the plants safely overwinter, they can be planted in a permanent place. And then grandmother's dream will come true!
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We all know the needles of thuja - it seems that you can not confuse it with anything. But no! She has amazing heather-like forms with needle-shaped needles. For example, the cultivar 'Ericoides' is a dwarf bushy and fast-growing thuja up to 1 m high.
It is strikingly similar to a juniper! By the winter, its needles acquire bronze shades, but do not panic, in the spring it quickly recovers and again becomes silvery-green. In the dwarf variety 'Teddy', the needles are short and fluffy, also needle-shaped. Its height after 10 years is only 0,3 m, the best it will look in any stony garden. The needles are similar to that of 'Recurva Nana', only it is higher than 'Teddy' (2 m).
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REALIZE THAT ALL IS NOT DIFFICULT
A few years ago in the spring, a friend of mine, a summer resident, brought me a twig of western thuje. I put it in a bottle of water and, while she stood on the window, read the literature about this plant.
I was interested, can it be rooted? It turned out that Tuya generally reproduces easily by cuttings. From the brought twigs, I cut a dozen cuttings with a small heel each (about 1 cm). Day spent the prepared cuttings in a solution of hegeroauxin, and the next day dropped them to a depth of about 2 cm in the old leaky pelvis.
The soil was taken peat, bought in the store, from above poured a layer of sand about 3 cm. I put the pelvis into the garden in a shaded place, under gooseberry. All the spring and summer watered them, in the hot days after watering covered with plastic wrap.
What was my joy when practically all the cuttings went into growth! In autumn he dropped them in the open ground to a permanent place where they grow now. For winter covered with a layer of leaves.
Through 2, the thuja climbed to a height of 30-35 cm, and although my land is heavy, clay, thuya grows fine.
Then he repeatedly rooted thuja cuttings directly in the open ground, planting them in late March - early April. I distribute rooted cuttings to neighbors and acquaintances. Thuja is very good in summer and winter.
He also mastered one more method of reproduction of this plant. When it reaches a height of about 2 m in spring, carefully, so as not to damage the roots, I make a groove perpendicular to the trunk in the ground, 4 bends down the lower branch of the thuja, pins it and pours the groove with fertile soil. In autumn the branch gives already rooted shoots. I cut off the seedlings and plant them in a permanent place. The next year such seedlings reach a height of 50 cm.
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I tried to sow thai seeds. Everything worked out. But last year he collected them from the Thuya variety of Smaragd, and not a single seed emerged. What could be the reason?
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- Tiuma seeds need stratification. You can now sow their houses in a bowl and put in the refrigerator for 2-3 months, or you can sow under the winter in the garden - on the bed, but better - in the tank, so as not to lose. Fill it with a mixture of turf or garden soil, peat and sand (1: 2: 0,5). Well level and compact the soil. Make a groove and evenly distribute the seeds along it. Top the ground with soil. You can pour a little. It is advisable to cover with polyethylene. Place a pot with a sub-tree on the street.
In the spring, as soon as it gets warmer, the earth will warm up to + 13-15 degrees, the first shoots will appear.
Every 2 weeks, feed the plants with a solution of full mineral fertilizer (nitrogen + phosphorus + potassium). When the seedlings grow, they can be planted, but if the crops are not thickened, leave it in the bowl for another year.
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When colleagues gave me 4 thui for my birthday, I was happy as a child. Planted them in a row near the fence on the south side. Through 3-4, they were to become the highlight of the site. However, the hot summer of 2016-th played its fatal role.
Tui very much like moisture. When they are poured on top of the sprinkler, their needles "opens" and begins to give a fragrant freshness. My husband and I poured tui 2 times a week, and they well tolerated 30-degree heat. But when we went on vacation, agreeing on watering with a neighbor, thujas had a hard time.
Neighbor decided not to water the trees (not cucumbers!). The sun, which on the southern side bakes all day, "evaporated" all moisture from the tuja. As a result, by our arrival, the green pyramids turned into rusty panicles.
For myself, I made 2 conclusions. The first is not to resort to the help of a neighbor. The second is not to plant thuja on the south side of the site. I placed new arborvitae near the porch of the house on the northwest side. While they are small, but already very cute!
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Conifers with a closed root system can be planted from April to October. Usually in summer residents, Tuva western Smaragd is most popular. This, as they say, is a classic - a plant of the correct form in the form of a candle, which looks good both as a separate tree and as a hedge.
The seedling in the pot before planting should be "drunk" - put it directly in this container in a bucket of water for 30-40 minutes. Dug up a hole for 4 cm more than the pot in which the plant grows, and pour it abundantly. The place should be sunny or slightly shaded, but not a deaf shadow! The soil is fertile, well drained. On the loam soil fills fill with soil for conifers. Only no organics - humus, compost, etc.
If you plan to create a hedge, plant the plants at a distance of 80-120 cm from each other.
Remove thoy from the pot, put it in a hole, fill it with soil and pour again. By the way, to pour young plants first time you need regularly - in a drought 1 -2 times a week morning or evening. A week or two after planting, I recommend feeding it with fertilizer for conifers.
FOR THE NOTICE
In spring (in March-April), tuja may burn the needles - this is a natural process. Do not immediately get frustrated - time will pass, the sun will warm, and the color will again become saturated green.
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I planted thuya. They grew well for several years, but last year the bark on large branches began to swell, as if on the reverse side of the sheet, I noticed small specks of pink-yellow-brown color, the branches became brittle. What could it be?
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Judging by the insufficiently complete description, your plant was attacked by a small insect (3-7 mm) - a thujaceous false shield. It is necessary to immediately carry out a set of measures to combat it.
The most effective measure is the treatment of plants in the spring (late April - early May) and summer (late June - early August) periods with insecticides. There are also folk methods. For prevention, you can tie the trunk with burlap. At the same time, treat the branches with a soapy solution on denatured alcohol (15 g of soap, 10 ml of alcohol and 1 l of warm water).
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Very interested in the question: how to keep the seedling tui until spring at home? I would not want him to turn yellow and die, because he did not get me so easily.
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Seedling of western Tui is quite realistic to keep the house without any problems. The main thing is to ensure optimal conditions. Ground the earth wrap sackcloth in several layers. The burlap material must be free of synthetic inserts, fibers, and the like. Make sure that it is constantly wet. Roots should also be constantly wet. But do not overdo it, know the measure. Excessive watering can ruin a seedling. You can transplant the seedling in a suitable pot, and after the onset of heat, already move the plant to a permanent place. It is best to keep the seedling in a cool place (in the cellar, basement, on the loggia), where the temperature is about 5-10 °. However, do not allow negative temperatures and strong drafts. Do not forget that the tuja seedling needs light. Place a lamp, floor lamp or lamp above it.
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At my dacha a few low tuya grow.
These evergreen bushes, also called life trees, decorate the site remarkably well, giving it a well-groomed appearance. But in order for them to perform their decorative function, we must first look after them.
When the thuja begins to grow actively, it should be well watered, and the trunks periodically break up to a depth of 8-10 cm. After this, it is desirable to mulch with sawdust or peat. And since loosening should be carried out often, in order to reduce the consumption of mulch, it is better to shovel it aside before starting work, and then return it to its place.
In order for the bushes to grow well and quickly, they should often be sprayed with warmed by the sun water. It is desirable to add a little growth stimulant. Spraying should be done in the evening, so that the plant does not get sunburn.
Dry branches need to be removed, and the plant itself is then treated with a systemic fungicide in order to destroy the fungus. Often it is the cause of the drying of branches.
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Last year all the pears fell ill with an unknown disease for me. On many leaves there were spots of orange, similar to rust. On the reverse side, some growths were formed in these places.
Do you have enough forces to fight?
Having read the article about pear diseases, I learned that the source of infection is juniper, whose spores are spread over a distance of 50-100 m and infect pears and even apple trees not only on one's own, but also on neighboring sites.
This disease is called rust and it occurs in the garden only with the presence of juniper, which became fashionable in many owners of summer cottages.
How to get rid of this scourge? One respected scientist suggests treating trees in the garden with a 5-7% solution of urea at the beginning of fall foliage, and spraying pears with some fungicide 4-5 times in the next season.
I could agree with a specialist and process trees 5-6 times, if I had only these works! But for the summer season we have to fight also with phytophthora, scab, powdery mildew, and also with the Colorado beetle, aphids and a bunch of other winged and wingless creatures.
So I'm afraid that the work to combat rust pears for me, and other dacha residents is simply unrecognizable! And there is no certainty. that it will be successful, because, as it seems to me, there are still no effective means against this disease.
Attention - to other conifers
So I thought: is the role of juniper in our gardens great? Can you find him an equivalent replacement?
I have three pyramidal and two spherical thuys on the site, which invariably cause admiration of acquaintances and just passers-by. After all, the "pyramids" shot upward at 5 m. And what flavor they exude!
Without causing any harm to other plants, without creating a lot of shade, they grow beautifully without any care, not counting the abundant autumn watering with rain water, let down from the barrel.
So for the sake of saving pears and apple trees from an infection that suddenly came to our gardens, let us all together say decisively: there is no place for juniper in our gardens! Forget about this culture and for beauty we will start growing other conifers that are not a threat to fruit crops.
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In spring I found that on the bark of young tui (they were planted for about 5-7 years ago) longitudinal cracks appeared from 10 to 25 cm. Some of the gaps were obviously fresh, others had dragged on. Because of what they were formed? What to do to prevent the trees from perishing? Now they look quite happy
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In spring I found that on the bark of young tui (they were planted for about 5-7 years ago) longitudinal cracks appeared from 10 to 25 cm. Some of the gaps were obviously fresh, others had dragged on. Because of what they were formed? What to do to prevent the trees from perishing? Now they look quite happy
The bark may crack due to frostbite. If the gap is small and the tree starts to grow slowly, by the middle of the summer everything is overgrown. In this case, you can do nothing, because before the cracks grow themselves. But when the thyme is overfed and grows in leaps and bounds, and the wound, especially serious, is dragged out with difficulty, the plant needs help!
Large cracks with exfoliating bark have to be treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, after removing the dried out areas. Then dry, cover with a thin layer of garden gauze and tightly bandage with a tape from the net. The piping can also be spread over the top so that it does not get wet from the rain.
What else to do? Reduce the dose of nitrogen in spring fertilizing and generally abandon it from the second half of summer. In hot, dry weather, thuja, especially with fresh cracks, should be watered abundantly every two weeks, and newly planted plants once a week. The norm is 1-2 buckets of water per plant up to 1,5 m high. Watering should be done early in the morning or in the evening, at the same time sprinkling crowns.
Weakened, and healthy trees are much better than themselves if the ground above the roots is covered up. There are no sharp changes in temperature, longer moisture persists in the soil. If we use weeded, ground and shredded weeds as a mulch, we can refuse completely from the fertilization of these crops or reduce them to a minimum even on poor soils.
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Why does thuya dry
Pine, spruce, fir are conifers of northern origin, so in winter they consume less water than more southern species, such as thuja. This is due to the fact that the needles for the winter are covered with a dense waxy coating that covers the stomata, and the water does not evaporate through them. The trunks are protected from frost by thick bark, the kidneys - a layer of resin. And in thuja, the needles are open and the water evaporates all winter, while the roots, due to freezing of the soil, cannot extract moisture from it. As a result, by the spring on young thuja, with superficially lying roots, entire branches dry out. In addition, thujas suffer from the early spring sun. Therefore, in winter and early spring, they must be protected by covering the tree trunks and the ground part of the plants with non-woven material.
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Nursery for Tui
Along the perimeter of the summer house I have been building a green fence of tui for several years. To make it solid, you need to plant a lot of plants, especially since not all of them get accustomed. To buy young tuja in such quantity is expensive, here and has conceived to create for them own nursery.
Every autumn I collect the matured cones from previously planted plants and arrange them on white paper. After a day or two, the cones are opened, small seeds spill out of them. On white paper they are clearly visible.
Seeds for half a day put in water at room temperature, and then a little dried on a napkin and sowed in boxes filled with a moistened mixture of fertile soil and peat. I take both of them in equal parts. Sey seeds with an interval of 10-12,
All winter I keep boxes near the window, periodically watered, loosened the soil, but so as not to injure the emerging sprouts.
Around the middle of spring, I plant already grown seedlings in a permanent place - I compact them with a green hedge. Of course, growing thuja from seeds is a long process. But at my disposal is an almost unlimited number of seedlings. And this is without any costs!
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TUI WINTER CALCULATION
After the thuja was frost-bitten by the first minus temperatures, we harvest cuttings for reproduction. Cuttings are separated from the shoot with a piece of perennial bark. Then they must be completely processed by a growth stimulant.
We use heteroauxin at a concentration of 0,01-0.02%. The bottom of the handle needs to be cleaned of needles, then dip it in the "Kornevin." On a long textile napkin (they are sold in rolls and designed for cleaning), put sphagnum soaked in water, and cuttings in a row on it. Wrap the bottom edge of the napkin to fix the cuttings. Then roll everything into a roll, secure with an elastic band and wrap it in a bag. You can hang it on the window (higher, so that the heat from the battery does not damage). In spring, roots will appear, and it will be possible to plant plants in the school.
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TUYA WILL NOT HOPE
If the autumn is arid, then periodically water on the site with not too cold water. What for? As is known, all plants evaporate moisture through leaves, and evergreen trees and shrubs evaporate it in winter, especially on sunny days. If in the fall there was little rain, the soil for wintering leaves dry. As a result, conifers due to lack of moisture can gradually wither.
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Sow - thu in the winter
The most effective, I believe, is to propagate thawed seeds - sowing them in the winter. They need to be collected in early September, before the cones are opened.
Cut the bumps, dry them (they must open), and then shake them, so that seeds spill out.
Prepare a wooden box with soil. Take the land from the garden, mix it with peat (it should be 2 times more) and sand (enough half of the earth's volume). Seal the earth in the drawer, level it.
make grooves with the distance between them 5 see In Sow the seeds of thuja. Lightly pour. Approximately in 3 weeks, shoots should appear. From time to time it is necessary to feed complex mineral fertilizer. □ In spring, the strongest seedlings should be planted in the "nursery" (preferably, if you choose a place in the penumbra). In another year, you can land thuju on a permanent place.
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Thuya has not been growing for years 5. as she was planted, she remained the same, did not grow at all, and did not die, all green. What to do to make it go into growth?
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plant another