12 Review (s)

  1. Sakina Aitmukhametova

    The gladioli bulbs were dug up a long time ago. How to arrange them for the winter in apartments? My friend Elena Sergeevna Kokina (Omsk) had 33 winter storage options. But the older we get, the less we want to bother. The main thing that needs to be done with all the flower planting material: wash it off the soil, get rid of the diseased parts, dry it well, pack it in paper, put it in boxes or put it in a container and lower it into a cold but not freezing cellar or basement. Gladioli bulbs can be stored in paper bags in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator.

    There is one issue with gladioli bulbs, which are often damaged by thrips. A very nasty pest! After inspecting the bulbs, before storing them, they need to be treated with one of the preparations: “Decis”, “Akta-ra”, “Commander” or others (ask sales consultants in seed stores). If you have completed at least some minimum of tasks, then next season you will have flowers.

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  2. Sofia Nikolaevna

    For several years now, I have been using Vishnevsky ointment, purchased at a pharmacy, to preserve flower bulbs.

    Before planting tulips, gladioli, lilies and other flowers, I take out this product, dilute it with warm water in a disposable bowl until the consistency of sour cream, quickly dip the bulbs in this mash and plant it in the ground. Mice and moles bypass my tubers. For all the years of use of this odorous ointment, rodents have not damaged a single bulb plant.

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  3. Natalia Ivanovna GOMONOVA, Oryol Region, Livny

    The main rule responsible for the preservation of gladioli until spring is the drying of the bulbs in the 3 stage.

    First, immediately after excavation, they lie under a canopy in the shade with uncircumcised stems. Then I remove the aerial parts, remove the old ones from the young onion bulb, children and roots. And then I dry the bulbs in a city apartment at room temperature
    about 18-20 degrees. I do not remove the scales from the bulbs, otherwise they will evaporate moisture too quickly and fade. So gladioli should lie down for about a month.

    After this, planting material is best disinfected to protect against fungus infections. To do this, if possible, clean the diseased bulbs from scales. I cut off slightly affected areas, grease with green paint, put it in a cardboard box and put it in the refrigerator on the top shelf. In early March, I conduct an inspection again. If necessary, re-treat. And then I leave it to warm up at room temperature right in the box for 2 weeks and only after that I lay it out for germination.

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  4. Olga Pavlovna STARIKOVA, Karelia, Sortavala

    So much work was in the winter for the preservation of gladiolus bulbs, but they did not bloom. Why does this happen?

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  5. Zalina, Izhevsk, Udmurtia

    Gladiolus is not a simple culture, you need to make a lot of effort to admire its slender, luxurious arrows strewn with flowers in the fall. This plant respects well-treated loose soil without weeds, it does not need competitors for food and water.
    Therefore, in the garden you will have to constantly approach the gladiolus, loosen the soil, remove all kinds of dandelions, wood lice; at least eight times a month he needs to pay attention. And do not forget to feed him, in the first month of summer treat the gladiolus at least twice “tasty”: the first - when the fourth sheet begins to form, the second - when the sixth sheet appears.

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  6. Raisa CHERMANENKO

    The flower garden with gladioli is lit up all day.

    Because of the shadow in the morning, flowering will come later on 15-20 days. From the gladiolus trees it is better to plant at a distance of 3-5 m.

    In the autumn, I apply humus (1-1,5 buckets to 1 sq.), Superphosphate (50-100 g), potassium sulfate (20-40 g) and wood ash (100 g) in the autumn on a bedding under a deep digging.
    When buying corms I choose the diameter of 2,5-3,5 cm, with a donet of diameter 3-7 mm, clean, without spots and signs of disease, with a powerful single sprout.
    My bulbs, which I keep in the fall, I get in April for 2-3 weeks before disembarkation, I clean, soak 15 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate and lay them in boxes for germination.

    I plant corms from the middle of April to the middle of May: small and medium - to a depth of 7-10 cm, large - 15 cm. The distance between corms also depends on their size: 6-15 cm - in a row, 20-25 cm between rows.

    THREE PETS
    Ais Fire has an elegant flower with whimsically corrugated white flowers with pink flowers.
    At the tall gladiolus Admiral Ushakov the flowers are richly blue with a blue-violet hue and highlighting in the neck.
    Delight causes crimson, with a darker lower petal, strongly corrugated flowers of Vasilisa the Beautiful.

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  7. Tamara SHEVCHENKO, Nizhneudinsk

    Royal Flower of August
    Gladiolus pleases with its flowering from the second half of summer until the very frosts. In order to always decorate my garden with royal flowers, I propagate them vegetatively, with babies. Young corms with the size of 4-5 are best suited. Old, flat, bulbous bulbs larger than 7 cm give little children and weakly bloom.
    I grow gladioli on slightly shaded places. Both in strong light, and in the shade, plants are stretched and do not bloom for a long time. I prepare fertile soil for flowers, I add lime before planting (100 g per 1 sq. M). At the bottom of the hole I put a handful of peregresthuyu pine needles. And for additional fertilizing, water the beds with soapy water. After 3-4 such watering plants grow rapidly, the leaves become saturated color, and the buds become larger and brighter.
    I remove the gladiolus in late August or early September. The main thing is to have time to pick flowers before freezing. From the "harvest" I prepare the planting material. After you-digging, I cut off the stem, leaving a stump about 1 cm. I sort the corms in size, cutting off their roots. Then soak them for half an hour in a tincture of garlic (300 grams of chopped garlic pour 10 l of water and I insist 2 h). After drying at room temperature for a week, and then put in a cool place. When the planting material is sufficiently dried, I remove it for storage on the lower shelf of the refrigerator. Suitable containers will be a cardboard box or bags of dense material,

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  8. a guest

    After the excavation of the corms should be dried at a temperature of about 25 °, take healthy ones among them, clean them from old scales and roots, pour them with chalk or ground sulfur (20 g per 1 kg of corms). Store them best at temperatures from + 2 to + 7 ° and humidity not higher than 60%. Therefore, the most favorable storage conditions are in the cellar. In room conditions, at room temperature, corms dry up, but still rarely die (you should choose the coolest place for their storage). Small batches of corms can be stored in a refrigerator (not in the freezer) in perforated plastic bags. When storing them, you should regularly touch and remove damaged and sick corms.
    In the conditions of the Middle Strip and to the south, in dry soils, they can be left for wintering in the ground, under a light shelter from freezing. Strongly shrunken, but still living corms stored at home can be planted in well-drained flower pots filled with sandy soil in January-February, and in May, plants can be carefully transplanted into the ground, often already blooming.

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  9. Karina GRIGORYEVA

    Usually she cleaned the gladiolus bulbs in the cellar, and this time decided to leave them for storage at home, on the closet. Recently, I checked the bulbs and was horrified. They all wrinkled and withered. Did my gladioli perish because of room temperature and they could not be saved?

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  10. Reader

    Hello! I have been planting different kinds of flowers for many years. They give me strength to live after the death of my husband, I communicate with them as people. I really love gladioli. I try to exchange with someone and grow my varieties from children.
    I'm not a fan of chemistry, and I loosen the ground by planting siderates: mustard or rye.
    The place for planting is sunny, I make beds from the east to the west, and I plant rows from the south to the north. Landings start in May, depending on the weather. Winter until March the bulbs are in the subfield. We have a house in the lowlands, and it's wet in the underground. A couple of times during the winter I take out and dry the bulbs. In March, the bulbs are cleaned and laid out on large plates. Before planting, I process them with potassium permanganate or "Maxim".
    Distance between the rows do in 30 cm, in the row large bulbs I plant through 15-20 cm, and less - through 10-15 see. For children I make grooves and plant not in one row, falling asleep on top of loose ground. Bulbs in the ground I place on depth up to 15 sm, as peduncles are high. When planting, I make ash and after planting I sprinkle the bed with ashes and water.
    0 While the gladiolus is small, I pour from the watering can, and a little grown up, watering gently on the side. If the onions are bare, pour the ground to grow babies.
    I rarely use fertilizers, mostly ashes. I loose the rows, weed out the weeds. Later on the sides of the bed
    I make a fence and pull the twine so that the peduncles do not break. But basically, when the gladioli blossom, by evening I slam them carefully, giving the opportunity to form to the children. All summer long, there are vases with flowers in the house.
    During the summer I remove sick bulbs.
    Admire the beauty of me comes a lot of people, and I take off my flowers in the photo to winter remember the summer. I do not start cleaning the bulbs 25 September. After digging the gladioli, I dry the bulb, I cut off the roots of the old bulb, I break the peduncles and again dry in the shade.
    Then I bring in the house, dry, until the old bulb separates. I clean the bulb on top and dry again. Then I clean up the cloth bags and in the basement until the spring.
    I do not tear off anything from young onions, since they are fed by the roots. By spring the onions will get stronger. Updating the bulbs I spend through the planting of children.

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  11. a guest

    This happens very often, and there are several reasons for this: a dry summer, an excess of nitrogen fertilizers, and the position of the bulbs during germination - this happens if they lay down sprouts.
    The main reason for the last time, leading to the bending of the peduncle, is too dry summer during the stamping of the peduncle. Therefore, it is at this time that the gladiolus should be watered abundantly. For irrigation use a permanent and heated
    in the sun water.

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  12. Anna

    What could be the reason for the development of a stiff peduncle in a gladiolus?

    Reply

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