Gladiolus - planting, care and treatment of bulbs - advice of the master
Contents ✓
How to care for gladioli
In Holland, several varieties of Gladiolus Mikhail Alekseevich were put into industrial production. The first were the most famous Grand Duchess Elizabeth and Dimitry of Thessalonica. Mikhail Kuznetsov - the first of the breeders of Russia was awarded the Order of Glory of the Nation.
My mother gave me love for the land and flowers. Her beds were always flat, the garden was neat, - Mikhail Alexeevich recalls. - A large grape garden, and on one of my favorite apple trees - up to 40 vaccinations. And even then we had a lot of flowers. When the family needed money, they gave tulips to the store.
But the gladiolus bought better, and I decided to grow this culture. They have become a passion for life: attract the original shape of the flower, a gamut of color shades and, most importantly, that this flower can be made even better.
How to grow a beautiful gladiolus?
And this is what the Lord will send. The very operation of pollination is simple - from one flower I carry the pollen on the stig of the other. After a while in the middle of the tied a box, seeds are formed, which I sow.
But it does not always happen and not at all. The Grand Duchess Elizabeth does not form seeds at all. Although she has magnificent and stigma, and pestle - everything seems to be there. And when the pollen from her transferred to another plant, everything turned out.
From the seeds I get bulbs, plant them and wait for the result. Nina Afanasyevna Miroshnichenko, a well-known breeder from Zhytomyr, teaches that new varieties should be obtained only on a very good "mother" - a strong bulb, a beautiful ear, holding buds, and the father may not be such a perfect variety. For 20 years, that engaged in breeding, I received about 60 new varieties and many are proud. In terms of the number of awards won, Dimitri Solunsky and Moscow Region are in the lead. It strikes with greatness John the Warrior.
Great Arkhipova and Vladislav Piavko remind of the magic voices of the famous soloists of the Bolshoi Theater. Pleases one of the last varieties of gladiolus - Kuznetsovsky porcelain.
But I admire other people's gladioli. I really love Cranberry in sugar Valentin Fedorovich Dybov, Third millennium Andrei Nikolayevich Gromov. He created the most unique varieties, which are still the best in cutting. And mine The Grand Duchess Elizabeth was created with the participation of its variety.
See also: Care for gladioli: feeding and pest control
Annually you plant on the site about 400 corms gladiolus. What is the most difficult thing in growing them?
Through trial and error, long-term observations, I developed my own rules. Sometimes bulbs are very flat in height. This means (in addition to the characteristics of the variety) that the plant was not adequately fed and the soil was poorly prepared. Gladiolus can be grown on all types of soils, the main thing is that they are cultivated. If the soil is clayey, but nutrient, treat it to a depth of 15-20 cm, and it will give plants moisture, nutrients and will have good air permeability.
Consider that the roots of the gladiolus penetrate deep into the earth. By the way, on clay, heavy soil, you need to plant bulbs to a shallower depth than on sandy ones. But, according to my observations, if to plant finely (8 cm), gladioli will not have enough moisture, which means that the flower stems will not be powerful.
Many buds in the ear, if during warm season the weather, a sufficient amount of moisture and nutrients. I plant the bulbs to a depth of about 15 cm. We have 22 hundreds of sandy soils, a very dry place. We have to create the humus layer ourselves. It should be at least 20 cm. Annually we buy two machines (KamAZ) horse manure with sawdust, and it lays a year.
Then we bring it under the previous culture. With it, soil moisture remains better. And after another year at this place we plant corms of gladioli. On sandy soil it is very important to maintain moisture, a growing gladiolus needs a lot. Even a healthy plant may have a curved ear, if it is not watered in time.
I plant tuber-bulb gladioli in the direction from the south to the north in four rows. We have sand, gravel, stones, and often bulbs die because they are located near the stone. The temperature regime is different. I thrust the baby in three to five rows with a distance of about 20 cm.
I rake the soil between the rows, make a groove and fall asleep in it humus, water. Since for decades the soil was replenished with organic matter, it is rich enough, therefore I do not do any top dressing. And for 25 years at all exhibitions gladioli received the first places.
What dates for planting gladioli are most acceptable for our climate zone?
- Depends on what time you want to get flowering plants. In addition, the soil must warm up; Heavy, clay warms up later. The best time to plant is May. But, if it is possible to hide plants from recurrent frosts, you can plant in the middle of April. And early varieties are planted and in June - in late August-September they will blossom.
Reference by topic: Gladiolus - planting and care
Than before planting process corms?
- I use foundation. I prepare the solution in 20-30 times stronger than recommended in the instructions, reducing the content of bulbs in it for 5-10 minutes. A strong solution of the drug kills mushrooms and bacteria in a short time.
When digging in the autumn, I etch the bulbs with a foundationazole from thrips. I keep the bulbs in solution for only 15 minutes and then rinse twice. Forced to spray plants from thrips in the summer - this is the main pest of gladioli. Although the causes of the disease may be other. Feed with fresh organics - wait for Fusarium. Its first sign is sickle-shaped leaves. There are longitudinal strokes on the petals - a viral disease, destroy the plant so as not to infect the others ... Mikhail Alekseevich knows the answer to any question related to gladioli. The love that the Master carried to these plants after so many years gives him the strength to create, creating one flower better than another. We wish him good health and new discoveries.
Author of questions: Z. Novikova Answers. M. Kuznetsov. In the photo, the variety of gladioli "Cornet"
LANDING AND CARE OF GLADIOLUS - TIPS AND FEEDBACK FROM FLOWERS
GLADIOLUS FLOWERED. WHAT'S NEXT?
I dig corms of gladioli 30-50 days after the end of flowering. But the main indicator is the state of the aerial part: the stems with leaves should completely die off and turn yellow.
After I dug it out, I don’t immediately cut off the leaves of gladioli: the bulbs dry with them for a while.
After digging the bulbs, I soak them for an hour in a solution of the drug Maxim Dachnik (a disinfectant for flower bulbs) and leave them to dry in the open air in gauze bags for about 3 days (so that insects cannot lay eggs on the bulbs)
Then I cut off the aerial part, put the bulbs in cardboard boxes. I cover the bottom of the boxes with pieces of torn newspapers, lay out the bulbs only in one row with the bottom down and again sprinkle with scraps of newspapers on top. If it is warm outside (about +20), you can keep the boxes in the open air for two weeks. And then for about a month in a room at a temperature not lower than +18 degrees.
And already for the winter I tie the box with twine and hang it in a dry cellar (where the temperature is not higher than +8 degrees). It is important that the bulbs do not get sunlight, otherwise they will germinate ahead of time.
If by spring the bulbs have dried up a little (decreased in size), before planting (in early May) I wrap them for a day in a wet cloth. They will return to normal size and quality.
© Author: Roman VASIN, Bryansk
NOTE: GLADIOLUS UNDER MINT PROTECTION
I cover the wooden fruit box with thick paper, put gladiolus corms there, sprinkle each row abundantly with dry mint leaves (its essential oils inhibit the germination of bulbs), tightly cover with paper or cardboard and store in the basement until spring.
Alesya OSMOLOVSKAYA, Mogilev region
BASIC RULES FOR LANDING AND CARE OF GLADIOLUS - VIDEO
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Growing gladioli - planting and care: tips and tricks
- Gladioli - planting and care for flowers, placement of watering and top dressing
- Gladiolus Care - Feeding and Pest Control
- Small-sized gladioli “Little Miracle” and “Tiny Miracle”
- Care for gladioli - 10 rules
- Technology of growing gladioli - advice from a professional florist
- Planting and growing gladioli is my experience and a few tips. Magnetized water and containers.
- Gladiolus Gromov: photos and varieties
- Species Gladiolus - cultivation and care, species and reproduction
- Gladiolus - planting, care and treatment of bulbs - advice of the master
Subscribe to updates in our groups and share.
Let's be friends!
#
For several years now, I have been using Vishnevsky ointment, purchased at a pharmacy, to preserve flower bulbs.
Before planting tulips, gladioli, lilies and other flowers, I take out this product, dilute it with warm water in a disposable bowl until the consistency of sour cream, quickly dip the bulbs in this mash and plant it in the ground. Mice and moles bypass my tubers. For all the years of use of this odorous ointment, rodents have not damaged a single bulb plant.
#
The main rule responsible for the preservation of gladioli until spring is the drying of the bulbs in the 3 stage.
First, immediately after excavation, they lie under a canopy in the shade with uncircumcised stems. Then I remove the aerial parts, remove the old ones from the young onion bulb, children and roots. And then I dry the bulbs in a city apartment at room temperature
about 18-20 degrees. I do not remove the scales from the bulbs, otherwise they will evaporate moisture too quickly and fade. So gladioli should lie down for about a month.
After this, planting material is best disinfected to protect against fungus infections. To do this, if possible, clean the diseased bulbs from scales. I cut off slightly affected areas, grease with green paint, put it in a cardboard box and put it in the refrigerator on the top shelf. In early March, I conduct an inspection again. If necessary, re-treat. And then I leave it to warm up at room temperature right in the box for 2 weeks and only after that I lay it out for germination.
#
So much work was in the winter for the preservation of gladiolus bulbs, but they did not bloom. Why does this happen?
#
Gladiolus is not a simple culture, you need to make a lot of effort to admire its slender, luxurious arrows strewn with flowers in the fall. This plant respects well-treated loose soil without weeds, it does not need competitors for food and water.
Therefore, in the garden you will have to constantly approach the gladiolus, loosen the soil, remove all kinds of dandelions, wood lice; at least eight times a month he needs to pay attention. And do not forget to feed him, in the first month of summer treat the gladiolus at least twice “tasty”: the first - when the fourth sheet begins to form, the second - when the sixth sheet appears.
#
The flower garden with gladioli is lit up all day.
Because of the shadow in the morning, flowering will come later on 15-20 days. From the gladiolus trees it is better to plant at a distance of 3-5 m.
In the autumn, I apply humus (1-1,5 buckets to 1 sq.), Superphosphate (50-100 g), potassium sulfate (20-40 g) and wood ash (100 g) in the autumn on a bedding under a deep digging.
When buying corms I choose the diameter of 2,5-3,5 cm, with a donet of diameter 3-7 mm, clean, without spots and signs of disease, with a powerful single sprout.
My bulbs, which I keep in the fall, I get in April for 2-3 weeks before disembarkation, I clean, soak 15 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate and lay them in boxes for germination.
I plant corms from the middle of April to the middle of May: small and medium - to a depth of 7-10 cm, large - 15 cm. The distance between corms also depends on their size: 6-15 cm - in a row, 20-25 cm between rows.
THREE PETS
Ais Fire has an elegant flower with whimsically corrugated white flowers with pink flowers.
At the tall gladiolus Admiral Ushakov the flowers are richly blue with a blue-violet hue and highlighting in the neck.
Delight causes crimson, with a darker lower petal, strongly corrugated flowers of Vasilisa the Beautiful.
#
Royal Flower of August
Gladiolus pleases with its flowering from the second half of summer until the very frosts. In order to always decorate my garden with royal flowers, I propagate them vegetatively, with babies. Young corms with the size of 4-5 are best suited. Old, flat, bulbous bulbs larger than 7 cm give little children and weakly bloom.
I grow gladioli on slightly shaded places. Both in strong light, and in the shade, plants are stretched and do not bloom for a long time. I prepare fertile soil for flowers, I add lime before planting (100 g per 1 sq. M). At the bottom of the hole I put a handful of peregresthuyu pine needles. And for additional fertilizing, water the beds with soapy water. After 3-4 such watering plants grow rapidly, the leaves become saturated color, and the buds become larger and brighter.
I remove the gladiolus in late August or early September. The main thing is to have time to pick flowers before freezing. From the "harvest" I prepare the planting material. After you-digging, I cut off the stem, leaving a stump about 1 cm. I sort the corms in size, cutting off their roots. Then soak them for half an hour in a tincture of garlic (300 grams of chopped garlic pour 10 l of water and I insist 2 h). After drying at room temperature for a week, and then put in a cool place. When the planting material is sufficiently dried, I remove it for storage on the lower shelf of the refrigerator. Suitable containers will be a cardboard box or bags of dense material,
#
After the excavation of the corms should be dried at a temperature of about 25 °, take healthy ones among them, clean them from old scales and roots, pour them with chalk or ground sulfur (20 g per 1 kg of corms). Store them best at temperatures from + 2 to + 7 ° and humidity not higher than 60%. Therefore, the most favorable storage conditions are in the cellar. In room conditions, at room temperature, corms dry up, but still rarely die (you should choose the coolest place for their storage). Small batches of corms can be stored in a refrigerator (not in the freezer) in perforated plastic bags. When storing them, you should regularly touch and remove damaged and sick corms.
In the conditions of the Middle Strip and to the south, in dry soils, they can be left for wintering in the ground, under a light shelter from freezing. Strongly shrunken, but still living corms stored at home can be planted in well-drained flower pots filled with sandy soil in January-February, and in May, plants can be carefully transplanted into the ground, often already blooming.
#
Usually she cleaned the gladiolus bulbs in the cellar, and this time decided to leave them for storage at home, on the closet. Recently, I checked the bulbs and was horrified. They all wrinkled and withered. Did my gladioli perish because of room temperature and they could not be saved?
#
Hello! I have been planting different kinds of flowers for many years. They give me strength to live after the death of my husband, I communicate with them as people. I really love gladioli. I try to exchange with someone and grow my varieties from children.
I'm not a fan of chemistry, and I loosen the ground by planting siderates: mustard or rye.
The place for planting is sunny, I make beds from the east to the west, and I plant rows from the south to the north. Landings start in May, depending on the weather. Winter until March the bulbs are in the subfield. We have a house in the lowlands, and it's wet in the underground. A couple of times during the winter I take out and dry the bulbs. In March, the bulbs are cleaned and laid out on large plates. Before planting, I process them with potassium permanganate or "Maxim".
Distance between the rows do in 30 cm, in the row large bulbs I plant through 15-20 cm, and less - through 10-15 see. For children I make grooves and plant not in one row, falling asleep on top of loose ground. Bulbs in the ground I place on depth up to 15 sm, as peduncles are high. When planting, I make ash and after planting I sprinkle the bed with ashes and water.
0 While the gladiolus is small, I pour from the watering can, and a little grown up, watering gently on the side. If the onions are bare, pour the ground to grow babies.
I rarely use fertilizers, mostly ashes. I loose the rows, weed out the weeds. Later on the sides of the bed
I make a fence and pull the twine so that the peduncles do not break. But basically, when the gladioli blossom, by evening I slam them carefully, giving the opportunity to form to the children. All summer long, there are vases with flowers in the house.
During the summer I remove sick bulbs.
Admire the beauty of me comes a lot of people, and I take off my flowers in the photo to winter remember the summer. I do not start cleaning the bulbs 25 September. After digging the gladioli, I dry the bulb, I cut off the roots of the old bulb, I break the peduncles and again dry in the shade.
Then I bring in the house, dry, until the old bulb separates. I clean the bulb on top and dry again. Then I clean up the cloth bags and in the basement until the spring.
I do not tear off anything from young onions, since they are fed by the roots. By spring the onions will get stronger. Updating the bulbs I spend through the planting of children.
#
This happens very often, and there are several reasons for this: a dry summer, an excess of nitrogen fertilizers, and the position of the bulbs during germination - this happens if they lay down sprouts.
The main reason for the last time, leading to the bending of the peduncle, is too dry summer during the stamping of the peduncle. Therefore, it is at this time that the gladiolus should be watered abundantly. For irrigation use a permanent and heated
in the sun water.
#
What could be the reason for the development of a stiff peduncle in a gladiolus?