Cultivation and varieties of Siberian irises

At first, we should be interested in the plant, we are ready to groom and cherish it, to put up with whims. However, then often the question arises, but is it worth a short period of admiring the flower of a whole season of struggle for his health? And as it is good that there are plants, joyful communication with which does not interfere with any "side effects". Siberian irises just like that!

Siberian irises are by no means rare plants, their old varieties with bluish-blue flowers can often be found in gardens and parks. They form bushes with beautiful foliage, decorative throughout the summer, which, you will agree, is a great dignity.

In nature, the ancestors of Siberian irises grow on the moist meadows of Europe and Asia. They love the moisture, so the rains and spring floods do not harm them. On the other hand, the root system of Siberian irises is so powerful that they can extract water deep from under the ground and, except for an extremely abnormally dry summer, do not require special watering.

Undemanding to the soil, however, do not like alkaline soils, so when planting no deoxidizing materials are added.

ALL YOU NEED FOR THIS ARTICLE IS HERE >>>

The terrible enemy of bearded irises - bacteriosis - is absolutely safe for the Siberian, they are not susceptible to this disease. Also, they do not require any tricks with wintering, as they are quite resistant to our winters. Siberian irises withstand shading without much damage to flowering, so they are often planted in a moving shade or in places exposed to the sun not all day. However, they are also good in open areas.

Siberian irises: varieties

There are few short varieties, I prefer them 'Nana's' and 'Haste'. In general, the height of peduncles rising above the foliage, 70-80 cm, but there are also varieties that grow much higher than a meter ('Banish Misfortune', 'Pennywhistle') But even these tall plants do not require a garter - their flower stalks are strong and stable.

Siberian irises begin to bloom in late May, the earliest of them is 'Hanka'. Most varieties open their flowers in the second half of June, and the flowering of the latest in the second half of July ends.

Thus, these irises can decorate our gardens for a month and a half. Breeders try to increase the number of flowers on one plant to make the flowering as long as possible ('Shaker's Prayer', 'Lemon Veil', 'Kismet'), as well as the display of richly flowering border varieties - decoration of the foreground of flower beds.

Most often in the gardens you can find Siberian irises of blue-blue coloration ('Seneca Feather Dancer', 'Ship Are Sailing', 'Mabel Codey', 'Lorena Cronin'), but they are also yellow-white ('Moon Silk', 'Summer Evening', 'Summer Revels'), pinkish ('Fond Kiss', 'Dance Ballerina Dance'), red ('Hot sketch'), as well as a complex overlay of colors ('Humorsof Whiskey', 'Salamander Crossing'). Especially unusual are yellow and reddish forms, as well as multicolor ('Contrast in Styles', 'Charming Billy') Some varieties, mainly blue-violet, have amazing velvet petals in texture, the beauty of which is not visible in the photograph, and you can fully appreciate them only “live”. On the lower petals of a Siberian iris flower there is usually a so-called “signal” - a spot of different intensities of yellow color, and in some varieties this signal seems to be painted with gold paint, which gives the flower a royal royal splendor!

Annually new varieties of Siberian irises appear, but those that were obtained by breeders many years ago do not lose their attractiveness, because these plants do not have some rigid standard that determines how a modern variety should look, but there is a great variety both in color, and in the form of a flower.

The flower of wild Siberian iris is arranged so that it is easy for insects to pollinate it. But varietal plants, pollinated by humans artificially, often have features that are "harmful" to a wild plant, but which impart a special decorative effect to a flower.

The blades of the column, which cover insects with access to nectar before pollination, rise, turn into severely dissected crests, like 'Dawn Waltz', or become like petals, which creates a terry effect ('Drops of Brandy', 'Double Standarts'), and it is already difficult to understand what kind of origin of which part of the flower. There are also really terry varieties, 'Kabluey', 'Kita-no-Sieza', 'Rigamarole', 'RikugiSakura'.

Siberian irises: care

In general, Siberian irises are quite unpretentious perennials, their agricultural technology is not complicated, but we must remember that varieties, unlike savages, need to provide a sunny place for plentiful flowering. The most important thing is to initially plant Siberian irises in a good, fertilized land without adding lime.

In the first year, no fertilizers are needed. When planting, you must remove the old parts of the rhizome, devoid of leaves, they are easily broken off, and the wound remains small. Plant plants in the hole on the mound, the roots are straightened, and then the rhizome is sprinkled with a layer of ground about 5-7 cm. Very fond of irises are mulching, for which you can use any available materials (peat, sawdust, crushed bark, etc.)

Starting from the second year, in spring mineral fertilizing with a full set of trace elements is introduced. If it's better to give a cold top dressing to a cold root, as the roots work poorly in the cold and the plants can suffer from a lack of nutrition.

In autumn (not earlier than October), after a strong frost that can kill foliage, it should be cut at an altitude of about 15 cm. This particularly applies to varieties with thick thick foliage that does not decay over the winter and hinders the growth of young leaves in the spring. In the case of a long warm autumn, this work can be postponed to early spring.

Siberian irises can grow in one place for five to seven years or more, growing a bush and increasing the number of flowers. And only when the flowering begins to weaken clearly, plants need to be transplanted. The best planting time is the second half of August, by this time the delenki accumulate maximum reserves for the winter, take root well and winter better. But you can transplant and plant in the spring.

It is better for beginners not to pursue novelties, but first to plant Siberian iris varieties, which showed their reliability, and then gradually to expand the collection. I would advise such a "gentleman's set": 'Dreaming Yellow', 'Cambridge', 'Silver Edge', 'Helen Astor' and 'Ruffled Velvet'.

Siberian irises: photos of some varieties

Author: N. Alexandrova - a famous gardener and collector

ORDER QUALITY AND CHEAP SEEDS AND OTHER PRODUCTS FOR HOME AND COTTAGE. PRICES ARE BOTTLE. CHECKED! JUST LOOK FOR YOURSELF AND BE AMAZED. THERE ARE REVIEWS. GO >>>

Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"

Subscribe to updates in our groups and share.

Let's be friends!

Dacha with their own hands > Flowers - planting and care > Irises > Siberian irises: varieties, planting and care

Comment

Ilona
21/07/2014 (16:47) #

If you want to decorate your garden with flowers of various colors, comparable in beauty to orchids, very generous in return for the moderate care of them, you need to plant irises. In my garden, irises grow everywhere: along the edges of the flower beds, along the garden paths and. of course. in a flower bed.
Irises love loose nutrient soil, light loamy. But what they do not tolerate is the stagnation of water in the soil: the rot quickly affects their rhizomes. For planting irises, I fill the elevation 10-15 cm from the land prepared for planting, along the edges of the elevation I make grooves for water drainage. On the hill I place the delicate iris and the slug-
ka press it into the ground (if you over-deepen the rhizome, iris will surely rot). I spread the roots on the sides of the elevation, sprinkled with soil, tamped it lightly. Delenki should stand in the ground tightly, so that the wind does not destroy the landing. Sometimes I fix the rhizomes with a wire. Irises are very proliferating, so you need to leave room for growth. In my experience, developed iris requires 0,5 m2 of land. For a long time in one place, the iris should not be left: the roots begin to press each other, the plants cease to flow luxuriantly, the flowers grow shallow. With proper care, de-lenka achieves its maximum decorativeness for the third year.
Rhizome rhizomes often come to the surface of the earth. And whatever I do, it happens year after year. In the autumn, after trimming the leaves so that the roots do not freeze, I sprinkle them with well-dispersed manure or humus (fresh manure does not like irises), I cover with lagnik. After the melting of snow cover the storm, but completely remove it in mid-April.
In the spring, at the beginning of the growth, irises are fed with nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers, during the budding period - full mineral fertilizer (I feed Kemira-lux), two weeks after flowering (when the roots grow actively) - potassium and phosphorus fertilizers.
Bearded irises successfully fill a pause between the flowering of early spring and summer flowers. Usually they begin to blossom from the second decade of May, when the tulips of late varieties are still adorned, and the flowering ends in the first decade of July, when lilies and roses blossom.
The beauty of irises can be admired indefinitely.
Most garden irises belong to the group of bearded irises. So they are named because of the presence on the outer pubescent petals