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8 Review (s)

  1. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    I want to stand up for planting potatoes under the vegetation cover, and as this season my children were convinced of the usefulness and convenience of such a method. They bought the dacha in 2013 year already in the summer, so they had to do the first potato planting only in the next spring. At the same time, their neighbors said that the former landlady had not fertilized the land for a long time, but we did not use chemistry in principle, but we had nothing else. We decided that we should take a chance and put it as it is. They made four double rows. And then the children bought an apartment (so it turned out) and they were not up to special courtship for planting. I had to help them.
    They had a lot of herbs, but they started mowing already in July no-July. By the time I had already peeled potatoes once. The children suggested sloping grass to be put directly on the beds, but they thought it would be ugly, and they just dumped it in a ditch that remained from the former mistress. But the roots of 8-10, I still poured this herb twice a season (it was already seeded and seedless by that time). We did not have any weeds so wrapped up this way, except for the birch tree, until the fall.
    And now it's time to harvest. From all three and a half beds there were a few potatoes, but it also grew small
    But on my pilot site the tubers were large, and in the bush by 12-15 pcs. Here's to you and "ugly" hay. Now the children realized what power is in the organics and why I collect in the winter onion husks, egg shells and even dry on the cleaning battery in the boxes. Places all this dried up good takes a little, for the winter is typed only about 1 bag.
    And I want to say thank you to everyone who sends their observations and recommendations on how to cope with different pests.
    I have already tried two such advice: from aphids I spray the planting with diluted tar soap, and from the ants I place jars with a solution of boric acid mixed with sugar.
    And really everything helps. But, of course, not all advice should be immediately believed. I always check on small sites so as not to hurt, if something goes wrong.

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  2. Sasha

    I grow tomatoes in a greenhouse 2,5 × 4 m. Since the autumn I dug up, put fertilizers, green manure, covered with straw. And in the spring she took off the mulch, fluttered and laid the straw again, then spread it
    null her and planted seedlings. But the earth had not warmed up yet, it was necessary to put the mulch in about ten days! Here they are, my dears, and began to fall one after another ... Their roots froze and died. More than half died, and it is especially unfortunate that all the Krasnobai died, so expensive and hard to get.
    DBom, do not like me! Teplice needs a week to warm up, especially under mulch.
    In general, I want to say that straw is a miracle. And he will close the potato in the aisles - it will not dry, and you can lay the cucumbers - the earth is loose, and you have to water less, and between strawberries, everywhere. Now the grass is in short supply, people cut off all the grooves and clearings, mow. Summer residents now went literate, thanks to our beautiful "Country".
    And one more thing. Sometimes you read articles: "Sow rye after potatoes - a wonderful siderat." And then: “In no case will there be plenty of wireworms!” Well, how is it? Who to believe? I do not judge how many people, so many opinions. But still ... Or here: to take seeds only from varieties, from hybrids - in no case!
    And all my friends buy hybrids of vegetables and in the first year they take seeds from them. Normal vegetables grow, good harvest. Only here you can’t take seeds from these vegetables - only once, from the first harvest. We all do that. One seed is enough for two years, then again we buy in the seed store. Buy seeds only in specialized stores where horrible do not take - my advice.

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  3. Alain

    When I read notes about potatoes, I always pay attention to two factors - the region where it is grown, and what kind of farm it is - a country house or a farm. I check many tips for myself. For 30 years, we have developed the optimal - with the lowest labor costs - option for obtaining a decent potato crop. When they were young and worked in production, they planted 3-4 varieties, without a name, took in quantity: more planted, more you get. Now retired, there is time and opportunity to experiment.
    We plant potatoes on a plot of 20 × 10 m in size, 5-6 buckets. We now have 14 varieties, tested by three years of practice. In the fall, at an agricultural fair, they bought a variety of Yugan. Resting in the fall in Cyprus, I saw there beautiful and clean white potatoes, beautiful tubers, acquired 4 pieces. It is only washed and baked with peel. Very tasty! So now two more varieties have been added.
    Our summer is short and the weather is unpredictable. We plant from May 20 to June 1, we dig on September 7-10. We prefer mid-early and mid-ripening varieties, the late ones do not ripen in our country, and the early ones are not preserved until a new crop. We check the seed material for two to three years before abandoning the variety. In each variety, I am attracted not only by the size and taste of the tubers, but also by their purity, the shape of the bush, how compactly the potatoes are located in the nest, and even the color of the tops. I noticed that potato is a plastic culture, and in our West Siberian region both the German Rosara, the Belarusian Dyne, the Dutch Symphony, and the varieties of the Central region — Artemis, Sappho — adapt well. We acquire potatoes at a breeding station, exchange them with our neighbors. So they raised Nakra, Sarovsky, Symphony - with 4 pieces of each grade. Kemerovo varieties Udalets; Tuleevsky, Kuznechanka bought 1 kg at the station. We have Rosar, Tea, Artemis, Solnechny, Nevsky, Sappho. Favorite - Nakra, Tuleevsky, Sunny, Dina.
    Young potatoes are more useful than usual: the sugar in it has not yet turned into starch.
    Do not put it in cold water, only boiling!
    Small tubers should be checked: if they are rubbed heavily, and the peel remains, it means that you are not young, but just small, "salad" potatoes.
    In the autumn we dig out each variety separately, choose the seed material from the best nests, wash it, dry it and put it in small nets, they are now sold a lot in shops. We hang a label from a piece of old linoleum on the net, write the name of the grade with a pencil.
    Grids with potatoes for two weeks hanging in the sun - green. This is not difficult, because we leave 1,5–2 kg of each variety, and 4–6 kg of favorites. It is stored in a cellar in nets well, clean and medium-sized. During the winter, I take small cardboard boxes from under the sweets in the pastry shops. Unassembled, they do not take up space at all.
    We raise potatoes for germination from the cellar by May 1. Each variety - in its own box, with a pencil on the box we sign the name. For two weeks we keep seed potatoes in the basement of our five-story building - it is warm and dark there. The last two weeks we have kept potatoes in the country in a house where it is still cold but light.
    Potatoes are periodically sprinkled with a growth biostimulator based on peat or a solution of potassium permanganate.
    We plant as a standard 70 × 25 cm, put into the holes a handful of wood ash, onion husks, eggshells and humus. We dig a plot under the first row, pull the cord and make holes on the cord. We spread the potatoes - we dig further, after 70 cm we transfer the cord and make the second row of holes, immediately falling asleep the first row. We try to do it in a checkerboard pattern. The plot is smooth, not trampled. For the season we make weeding for the first time, at the same time loosen young seedlings and for the second time weave and spud high. We don’t touch potatoes anymore. We don’t have a Colorado potato beetle; we don’t pick flowers on potatoes.
    10 days before harvesting, cut the tops with a sickle. After harvesting the potatoes, we clean the area, leave it clean for the winter, if possible - sprinkle with a thin layer the husks of pine nuts. With its harvest after processing, the husks are enough for the entire site. In the second year after harvesting, we sow green manure. The first autumn, oat seedlings were glued together by crows and magpies. Last year, white mustard was sown, and its green shoots went under the snow. I liked the advice from Dacha, where the mustard is scattered in front of a potato digging and it is simultaneously planted in the soil.
    We dig from 50 to 80 buckets from 6 planted - a crop of an average of 1:10. There are always 15-20 buckets left for sale. Last year, they read in a magazine about landing in double rows. They tried it - half of the plot was planted double, with a distance between them of 90 cm. I did not like it. Our land plot has a slight slope, so it is inconvenient to double the double rows, and you have to dig one row - from top to bottom, the second - vice versa.
    So, after trying many tips, you choose the most convenient for yourself and the site. Since 1997, I have been conducting books on crop accounting for varieties of all vegetable crops. And I wish the readers pleasant summer holidays!

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  4. Raisa

    I read about planting potatoes under the straw and fired up with this idea. In due time I laid out the tubers on the ground and covered them with manned hay (I have nowhere to get straw, so I took what was at hand). And she began to wait for the result. But it was not there. The potato either grew small (the son-in-law called it balls from the bearing), or did not sprout at all - the seed tubers still lay, becoming unusable.
    What kind of parable is this? I began to think. The method can not be bad, not for nothing that most readers use it successfully. So, the case is in cover. At first, I decided that the cause in a manured hay-it is heavier than straw. And then it dawned on me: I put it too thick! Here is a potato and it turned out as if in a refrigerator, not to sigh to it, or to exhale.
    The following year, I repeated my experiment, only now the manure of the hay did not begin to cast a continuous thick-
    and each tuber sheltered them a little, like a hat (and crushed slightly on top with small wooden bars). And the potatoes were not worse at all than at the main plot.
    Would you say if the result is similar, was it worth it to plant a garden? Of course, it was worth it, because all the focus in the work. Do something, almost nothing is needed, everything is growing. And we do not even have any weeds.
    Perhaps, for those who are ready to bend their backs on their beds day and night, hilling them and plucking every blade of grass, this method will seem like a blessed thing, but for people like me who are hard to bend all the time (especially in the heat), this is a real salvation .

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  5. a guest

    No potato wells are needed
    For potatoes do not necessarily dig holes. To see this, I conducted an experiment.
    Instead of the traditional planting, he simply laid out the tubers in two rows directly over the surface of the earth, which was well warmed by the spring sun. And the top was covered with a very small layer of earth mixed with compost.
    After that, I covered the improvised bed with lutrasil, pulling the nonwoven material over the arcs. Under this "canopy" plants were until the middle of June, that is completely safe from the point of view of frosts. Thus, in the most critical period for plants, when the root system grows, they were protected from cold. Shelter also helped to keep the spring moisture in the soil, and
    this had a beneficial effect on potatoes.
    True, from time to time I threw the canvas to loosen the soil, remove the weeds and pour the earth to the base of the bushes.
    The use of this method made it possible to accelerate the vegetation of plants. We started digging young potatoes about half a month earlier than usual. And at the end of summer, the entire crop was harvested, which, in comparison with the usual method of cultivation, was almost twice as high - at least 5 kg from each bush.

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  6. Svetlana

    Flowers for potatoes are not the most important thing. This thesis, I think, was adopted by breeders offering varieties that have virtually no flowering, for example, Bellarosa, Leader, Rocco. In this case, the plant does not spend nutrients on flowers and fruit formation - all forces are directed to the formation of tubers. Incidentally, a well-known agricultural technique is based on this - picking flowers to obtain a higher crop.
    But if a variety is grown that should bloom, and he avoids this, maybe weakened planting material was used or no fertilizing was done, so the plant spends all efforts to maintain its underground part.
    This should be a signal that potatoes need to be fed. In a bucket of water, dilute 0,5 l of mullein and pour bushes with this liquid at the rate of 0,5 l for each. You can also use bird droppings or mineral fertilizers - 1 tbsp. l urea (urea) or “Dissolve” on a bucket of water. After 10 days, it is worth watering the plants with infusion of wood ash - a glass on a bucket of water, withstand 10-12 hours.
    Flowering may be absent when plants are affected by a golden potato nematode. But in this case, other signs are manifested, the main of which is the weakness of the bush with a few frail stems, which begin to turn yellow prematurely.
    In the future, you need to carefully read the characteristics of the varieties used, then there will be no "surprises".

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  7. a guest

    For some reason this year does not flower potatoes. I've never faced this before. Will this affect the yields of tubers?

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  8. Svetlana

    How to grow potatoes on sand
    The soil on my site is sandy, the potato grows sick. The tuber is healthy in appearance, and black circles or dots in the section, and it is necessary to throw it away. Something in the soil is not enough, than to treat it? Or you need a special grade? Help advice.

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