About growing pears and caring for a tree ...
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Growing a pear - gardener tips for caring for a tree
I've been doing the pear from 1990 a year and I can say that if you pick the right variety, you can annually get abundant crops despite the harshest winters.
As a result of the tests, I found out that the highest hardiness is possessed by trees grafted on the seedling wild game, which itself is resistant to any tests of nature and has a strong root system.
I plant new seedlings in the crown of an adult tree to quickly test the variety for winter hardiness, resistance to diseases, and also determine the taste qualities of the fruit. In addition, at the end of summer such a tree-garden, when it ripens different in appearance fruits, looks more than original. Harvest on such a pear is always excellent due to good pollination.
The vaccine itself is done either by the method of improved copulating, or in the cleavage of seedlings of the local pear-wild duck at an altitude of 10-30 cm from the ground.
The compatibility of the scion with the stock is excellent, the seedlings grow well and quickly enter into fruiting.
When planting pears on a permanent place, I make a pit 50x50x50 cm, put in it 3 buckets of humus, 1 bucket of dolomite flour, 1 bucket of sand, 1 l ashes, as well as 0,5 l superphosphate and potassium chloride.
Everything is well shoveled, I make a knoll, I plant seedlings on it, straighten roots and sprinkle with fertile soil, by cutting the root neck on 3-5 cm. Then, around the 8 30 trunk, I make a watering hole in which I pour out 5 buckets of water.
See also: Planting and breeding pears - the choice of variety
Why do we need such a flood? And that the wet earth well stuck roots. And within a month I support the ground in a wet condition.
The seedlings are well established during planting both in spring and in autumn.
In the first case, during the swelling of the kidneys, I spray trees from scab and fruit rot with Bordeaux liquid or copper chloroxide, and from lichen mosses with iron sulfate. For the same reason, in the early spring, I rake and burn leaves.
But against the pests I apply infusion of celandine and garlic with the addition of a few drops of liquid smoke for smoking. In the fight against all sorts of bug-cockroaches I help birds that live in the nesting boxes, installed by me around the perimeter of the site.
Early in the spring, I sanitize the branches, and also lower the crowns of trees by trimming the central trunk at a certain height onto a strong lateral branch.
All slices, cracks and hollows are covered with a solution of clay and mullein (2: 1) with the addition of copper sulfate.
I have long been convinced that wounds covered with such a "talker" heal much faster than they are smeared with garden var.
In the spring, in order to avoid breaking the tree under the weight of the crop, I connect the oppositely directed branches with a kapron rope (or wire), placing the pieces of tire under it, so as not to damage the bark.
Some skeletal branches I fasten with thin staples.
In May, I water the trees repeatedly, and in June I combine the irrigation with the manure feed on the tree crown in order to increase the supply of nutrients for fruit filling in the summer.
In a barrel of tincture, except rabbit manure and chicken manure, add 100 yeast or a loaf of black bread, celandine, garlic, dandelion, nettle, tansy, leaves and branches of elderberry and bird cherry, which give the liquid a deterrent effect for leaf-eating.
In the summer I do not forget about watering, loosening of the soil I combine with the removal of weeds using a flat-saw, and in July I spend abundant watering so that the soil becomes soaked to a depth of up to 50 cm.
In September, I shorten the annual branches: large growths - 1/2 length, short - 1/3.
Once every two years, under the fruiting pears in the radius of the crown, scatter on 1 a bucket of dolomite flour, 1 l ashes, a glass of superphosphate and potassium sulfate, then loosen the soil or mulch with humus.
This increases the winter hardiness of the tree, and the fruits become sweeter for taste and less prone to spoilage.
In October, the whitewash trunks with a solution of lime with the addition of clay and copper sulphate. I wrap the trees’s stakes in “blankets” from plastic bottles cut along without a neck and a bottom to protect against rodents, and cover the skeletal branches with a spruce to protect against frost.
See also: Care of the pear tree (American experience)
Briefly about pear varieties
From early varieties of pears I want to highlight Moscow, Bergamot, Tonkovetku and Skorospelku.
Also pleasing with good yields are medium-ripening varieties: Faithful, Lada, Chizhovskaya, Elegant, Efimova, Vidnaya. Winter hardiness is very good for them. But most of all I'm happy with autumn varieties. These are pear varieties In memory of Yakovlev, In Memory of Zhegalov, Srednerusskaya, Otradnenskaya, Marble, Moskvichka. The period of their consumption in fresh form until mid-November.
VF Okhotnikov. Vladimir region
Pear growing - planting and care: sharing experiences
Growing a pear in Bashkiria - planting and care
I want to share the experience of my 40-year work in the garden gardens of a personal plot (15 acres) for growing pears in our northern regions. For the first time in our country a pear tree appeared in 1978. We bought it in a nursery and rejoiced like children — they were young. They planted and waited for sweet pears. Four years later, the tree bloomed, the children rejoiced. But when the fruits began to ripen in August, tears stood in their eyes - the pears turned out to be so acid! Here you are, grandmother, and St. George’s Day, waited ...
Then, for many years, we distributed crops to our friends who kept pigs in their buckets - they liked the fruit, champed it so appetizingly ... Looking at them, we ate one and two, but we really wanted real sweet pears!
Finally, we found the zoned and, as we were told in the kennel, sweet varieties and bought with great distrust. It was already in 2004 year. Planted, as before, dug a hole in advance, considering the entire method of planting, not burrowing the root neck, with all the necessary components in the soil. In a year our pear let two branches in opposite directions, and I knew from books that such branches can split the entire tree in half. Therefore, in the second year, one branch had to be cut and covered with garden fume. Kronu yearly decorated with a haircut.
Seven years of pear harvest waiting
At last they waited: our pear blossomed for the seventh year. But at that time the rains were pouring and, apparently, washed away the pollen: it is in the rain and in the cold, or very little, or not at all. Nevertheless, 18 ovaries appeared.
How glad we were of him! They gave top dressing and leaf and root, poured ash, watered in the absence of rain. In the first year, 16 pears ripened, two of which were glued by birds, but we were happy with such a “crop”, because we all, especially the granddaughter, were interested in the taste of the fruits. Waiting for August, we realized that they were ripe. The granddaughter was given to tear off the first pear and, by the expression on her face, they understood: this is what we have been dreaming about for so long - a juicy, sweet, fragrant, real pear!
Now we have three trees. Pears from the first planted earlier than others are not suitable for storage: if you keep them for more than a week, they darken and turn into a plain sugar lump. The assortment was expanded, other varieties were planted - Lada, Cosmic. All these years they have not used any chemistry - thank God, there have been no pests so far, and now they are not. The leaves of the early pear are lighter than that of Lada, which is darker, velvety.
Until autumn, we give feeding with ashes, then we lay out buckets of rotted manure according to 5, we spread limestone buckets under each tree according to the diameter of the roots. Annual growth cuts in early spring, when the snow still lies. I spend the whitewashing of trees necessarily, starting from the root neck and as high as possible. I noticed that organic fertilizers improve the taste of fruits.
A limestone lay out because the acidity of the soil in my garden 4,7. I want pears as sweet as possible.
So now we, at our cold latitude, also enjoy sweet juicy pears. Sometimes we are afraid for them when weeks of frost are below -35 ° ... -40 °, but they are so grown up and become so high that you can’t hide anything. We hope for exposure of the trees themselves.
© Author: Vera Toktaeva Bashkiria
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Choose a pear variety (photo and description)
- Planting and caring for the pear for early harvest
- Pear (photo) description of planting and care: from the seedlings to the tree
- Pear and shale formation (stamping)
- To the pear gave fruit earlier
- Pear grafting - types of vaccinations, explanations for novice gardeners, photos
- The best varieties of pears for the middle lane - reviews and description
- Crop garden in the garden - planting and care
- Pear care: 5 problems and solutions
- How to make pear pruning shapely
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On the leaves of the pear late in the summer, black spots appeared. Supposed it was a scab. After harvesting, she was sprinkled with Tsitkor. It's enough?
Marina Verbitskaya, Moscow region
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Citricor is an insecticide, a preparation for the control of pests of crops, but not with diseases. Therefore, your treatment is useless. For the control of diseases fungicides are used (Skor, Fundazol, etc.). After the fall of the tree, it was necessary to spray the 10% solution of ammonium nitrate (1 kg per 10 L of water). If you did not do this processing, be sure to do it in the early spring
The snow layer thickened over the winter with the thickness of 50-60 cm gives, when 15 thaws, the water buckets on 1 sq.m of the garden area so-called "blue" spraying (3% solution of the Bordeaux liquid - 300 g per 10 L of water).
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Already more than once I was engaged in transplantation of a pear and here to what conclusions has come.
The best time for transplantation is the period from mid-September to mid-October. For these purposes, I choose biennial seedlings with a well-developed root system.
The pit for the pear is digging cone-shaped, depth to 1 m. At the bottom I fall asleep the upper fertile soil layer, followed by 2 buckets of humus and 2 buckets of compost that need to be properly tamped. To transplant the seedling of a pear is better with a clod of earth. At the same time, all the leaves on the tree are cut off. Root neck is not buried. Be sure to tie the seedling to the peg. On the day of planting I pour out under the pear 30 l of water. If the soil around the trunk sagged, I pour new soil.
A very important role is played by the quality of care in the 1 year after planting, so the tree is important to water it in time (although the adult pear easily tolerates a temporary drought), weed and loosen the near-stump circle. Growth in the 1 year is usually small. If the pear bloomed and formed fruit, they should be removed. So the forces of a tree will not be delayed by the formation of fruits, but will go on to further rooting and development.
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AUGUSTOVSKAYA ROSA
So called one of the most common varieties of pears. 'August dew' is a low tree with a medium-dense crown. Fruits of medium size, all almost the same size, ripen in mid-August. The pulp is very juicy, fine-grained and sweet and sour. The variety is resistant to scab and has good winter hardiness. Already in the 3-4th year after planting, subject to agricultural technology, you can collect up to 15 kg of the crop.
To remove pears is better than a little unripe. In a couple of days they will reach the ground and will be ready for consumption and processing.
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Secondary flowering is a rare phenomenon. It is related to the weather conditions of summer. Usually, the flower buds that have been planted should bloom only next spring. But some of them are formed earlier, ripen with the onset of favorable conditions (warm, humid summer) and blossom. There is another reason. Perhaps, in the previous year, some flower buds did not have time to form normally and did not blossom in the spring. They blossomed by the autumn. As a rule, this is not reflected in the crop of the next year.
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Miracles and more!
At our dacha, a pear of the Berel-Shitskaya variety grows. My husband and I waited a long time for her to blossom. And this happened. There were a lot of flowers, but only nine were left.
A We always talk with plants when we care for them, because they are also living beings. So with this tree. "This will grow our pears. and then we will know their taste, "we said. But when the pears are almost ripe, come once again to the country house, look, but they are only three of nine. Someone has beaten us! Remaining pears
we ate with great pleasure. The fruits were very juicy and delicious. We went to the tree, stroked and thanked him. True, they lamented that so few pears got ...
And then - a miracle! In the time of our arrival on one branch we noticed flowers. After they have faded, seven pears appeared on the branch. November came, the leaves had fallen from all trees. And the seven fruits were still growing. We tore them up and thanked our tree. And although the plodders grew small, but the taste was sweet.
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I have a pear, she’s about 20. The variety is either Aleksandrovskaya or Alekseevskaya. Fruits are the size of a chicken egg, with a sour taste, astringent, harsh. But for compotes, dried fruits and jam are suitable. Harvest annually stable and plentiful. But in the last 4-5 years, black dots began to appear on the leaves (first on single ones), like poppy seeds or pricks with a pin. The next year, there were more affected leaves, a year later even more, and in 2014, all the leaves became "spotted". Interestingly, over the summer, the leaf plate does not change in thickness or color, and the foliage does not fall until the fall. At first I thought - aphids. But she is not on the tree. Black spots slightly raised. I thought she was inside - neither. She asked, read, but did not find an answer. Advise what to do? By the way, the fruits themselves are not affected by anything even without wormholes.
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That pears do not dry
If the pears began to dry up small branches, then in the root system of the tree something is unsuccessful. Often this happens on sandy or peaty soils. And the reason is that in the cold season the roots lack moisture, and they dry. But to cope with this, believe me, it is not difficult.
In the fall, I water the pears profusely. Lew a lot of water in the near-barrel circle. If even then the frost hits and the roots are covered with ice, nothing terrible will happen. So the trees will safely transport the winter, and in the spring they will thaw, having received also additional moisture.
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What to do if under a large pear a lot of overgrowth grows? I have five pears five meters apart, and the undergrowth is only under one. I chose, dug up several years in a row - to no avail.
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I have an incomprehensible story with a pear. It does not grow, but it does not die either. It seems that she fell asleep. Could this be? And if so, then how to wake her up? And another question. The blackberry has normally overwintered me, and at the height of spring, when it seems like the heat has already set, she suddenly died. Why?!
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Give the pear a second youth
I’m already a lot of years old, and the dacha is already at a fairly respectable age, some of my garden dwellers have also aged - every year they give less and less fruit. It would be necessary to deal with cutting, but it is a pity. And if you try to return them a second youth? Cropped, for example.
As an "experimental rabbit" I chose an old pear-tree. She probably already lacked the strength of new branches, and the old boughs were so weak that they forgot to think about the fruits.
So I decided to radically cut off all the junk, in the hope that young growth will go in their place. I cut all the branches into two-thirds of their length with the expectation that a new crown will begin to form on tops - strong annual branches, which, as a rule, I used to remove so that the tree would not thicken.
Experiment with pruning conducted a couple of years ago. And now the old woman looks like a red girl-I can not. The following year, new branches were acquired, the crown formed, blossomed luxuriously. The pear was born! The whole village was treated.
So if you have old fruit trees in the garden, follow my example. And so that everything works out as it should, accept my parting words. The main rule of cardinal anti-aging trimming: on the lower branches, trim the branches looking up, and on the upper ones, to the side. Thus, the diameter of the crown is reduced by about one and a half meters, and the height of the tree is shortened by a meter. When pruning, also observe the following proportion: the length of the main skeletal branch should be longer than its cropped branch. Eternal youth to all!
Sergey DANILCHENKO, city of Pavlograd, Dnipropetrovsk region.