How to grow gladioli: planting and care

I'll tell you about my technology of growing gladioli.

In my collection about 400 varieties of these graceful plants. At first, they collected them chaotically. With the experience came the understanding that the selection of varieties should be approached more closely.

Now in my collection of gladioli about 10-15% of varieties with very early flowering periods, the main part are early-medium and medium-sized varieties (within 70%) and very few (approximately 10%) medium-late ones.

I do not keep late varieties, because they bloom very late, the bulb does not have time to ripen and the next year does not thrive.

It has to be grown, and the flowering of the onion comes only in the third year, which is generally unprofitable.

Planting gladiolus

At the end of August, after harvesting early vegetables, the soil is loosened, forming beds and densely sowing them with siderates (white mustard, oats, phacelia). After frosts, crops are placed on the soil surface with a thick layer of mulch, protecting it from compaction.

In the spring, when the soil warms up to a depth of 10-12 cm up to 8-10вС, across the ridges I make grooves with a depth of about 15 cm, with the distance between them 25-30 cm. Direction of furrows from south to north.

Pour a mixture of sand, peat, humus (1: 1: 2 ratio) into the furrows with a layer of 5-6 cm, pour it with a solution of phytosporin. I plant the bulbs of the first and second analyzes with a distance of 12-15 cm in the row, the third and fourth analyzes - after 8-10 cm. I completely fill the furrow with the same soil mixture and again pour it with phytosporin solution.

After the emergence of the shoots, the plant is bored from two sides, and the furrows formed are covered with humus.

Note

Large and small bulbs are planted separately, as large grows faster and will depress small plants.

Further care for gladioli: timely weeding, if necessary loosening and watering. In the absence of rain, watering should be done once a week, abundantly. The lack of moisture during the formation of the inflorescence and budding can lead to deformation of the inflorescence.

On a note:

The gladiolus bulbs for analysis can be of different ages:

• I parsing> 3,2 cm
• II analysis 2,5 - 3,2 cm
• III parsing 1,5 - 2,5 cm
• IV parsing up to 1,5 cm

Important point - top dressing gladioli

I am a supporter of organic farming, therefore I apply mineral fertilizers only at the initial stage and only once - in the phase of two leaves.

For a long time I use complex water-soluble (for example, FERTICARE-KOMBI). I use complex because there are collected in a good ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, necessary for plant growth.

All the rest of the time (3-4 times) I add green fertilizers, which I prepare in a large closed barrel.

I do them like that. I fill the barrel with biomass, half of which is about 50% nettle (there are a lot of benefits), 10 percent are celandine (planted throughout the garden, this is the prevention of various diseases), yarrow and tansy are also about 10% each. Everything else is what comes to hand: wood lice, dandelions, mugs, everything goes into business.

I put everything in a barrel, close it with something dark, impervious to light and insist 3-4 day. The time of use will be determined even by neighbors by the specific smell. But my lid is tight, so I come up and check.

Then I filter the solution, pour 1 l into 8-liter watering can and spread it to the top with water. I water and the baby, which I grow to replace old bulbs, and adult bulbs. I spend such treatments 3-4 for the season.

Illnesses of gladioli

I try to prevent the disease gladioli, so that there are no big flashes. To do this for the season 3-4 times I plant the plant with a solution of phytosporin, combining it with watering. Practically every day I inspect my beds with gladioli. At the slightest suspicion of the disease, I delete a doubtful specimen with a clod of earth. I burn the plant and put the soil outside the plot.

One of the very dangerous pests of these plants is gladiolus thrips, which has spread widely with imported material. To prevent the appearance and mass spread of thrips, with the release of the 4th-5th leaf, I begin prophylactic treatment of it with pesticides (you can’t do anything else ...). I carry out such treatments 3-4 in about 16-18 days - this is the period in which the trip develops from a larva to an adult insect.

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See also: Gladiolus - planting care and processing of bulbs

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With each treatment I change the drugs (actara, fufanon, gold spark, comandor), they are always available to me. The last treatment is carried out at 20-x in August, when the average daily temperature decreases.

When the average daily temperature falls below 9 C, the thrips begin to move from the upper aerial parts toward the bulb, penetrate beneath its scales, and there it remains to winter.

This is the period I try to catch, so that the tripe does not have time to move to the bulb. Therefore, the bulbs before laying on storage, I never treat them with pesticides (I store them in an apartment on a loggia).

Cleaning and storage of gladiolus bulbs

It should be remembered that the delay in harvesting gladioli contributes to diseases. I try to clean gladioli after 10 September. First I dig out the early varieties, then the middle ones, then the remaining ones. I finish cleaning the bulbs, which I grew from a tuber.

I brush the ground from the bulbs into the tray, gently turn the mother bulb, unscrew it (it separates well), remove the baby, cut off the roots, cut off the stem, I do not leave a stub. I put each variety in a separate bag, put a label there and start to prepare for drying.

From each bag individually I pour the bulbs into a colander and wash from the remnants of the earth in clean water. Then I return them again to the bag, I bind two together (it is convenient then to hang them, besides, the bulbs dry out faster in this state).

And for half an hour I put on a dressing in a strong solution of potassium permanganate, in which I add any washing powder with an inscription on the box that it "has bactericidal properties" (1 spoonful per bucket of warm water). Then I remove the bags with the bulbs, rinse them and add them to the drainage grid to collect the solution in which they lay, and isolate it from the plants.

If there is a suspicion of the presence of thrips, you can treat the bulbs in a dry way: fold them in a plastic bag and sprinkle for a few seconds with dichlorvos, tie the bag for 8-12 hours and then ventilate.

After that, if the weather is sunny, I post all the processed bags on airing. And in the evening I bring them into a closed room on the veranda, in which I create the ZO'S temperature using a heater with a fan. I turn it off at night.

I bring the dried up gladioli to the apartment. I have a loggia on the south side, and when the day is sunny, the temperature there is off scale. Therefore, on it I continue to hang gladioli, where they undergo additional drying. And they are there before the onset of cold weather.

When the bulbs dry well, put them in a cardboard box and install them in a large cardboard box, lined with thick (10 cm) polystyrene foam. I keep it on the loggia. Below on gladioli lies a thermometer. Usually on a closed loggia at a temperature outside of -10 * C, the temperature holds 3-7 C in the box. When I see that the temperature is going down to -20 ... -30'C (but this is a short period), I open the balcony door (I have loggia insulated). I live in cool conditions, but it preserves my favorite flowers.

The best gladiolus bulb - from the baby

For myself, I determined that the best planting material is a juvenile bulb (the one that is grown from a baby). She has a terminal kidney in the middle. There are still replacing buds on the bulb, but they, as a rule, rarely develop in which varieties. Mainly dominates the terminal.

Good, but somewhat worse in quality can be considered large high-molded corms 2-3-year-old. Bulbs 4-5-year-olds as a planting material have lower quality.

To replace old bulbs, I sow a tuber every year. I grow it in plastic boxes 25 × 40 cm in size. I grow two varieties in one box. I clean the baby before sowing and sow in two rows, retreating 5 cm from one and the other side of the box. I sow 20 children of each grade. In the end, 15-17 remain (not all sprout, and I remove the weakened shoots)

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See also: Growing gladioli - watering, care and nutrition

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Gladiolus in the design of the garden

As an ornamental plant for the garden gladiolus in our time is rarely used. If you place these plants against the background of high leafy bushes, then the upward directed gladiolus stems will not spoil the overall picture of the garden.

I plant the gladioli in groups or clumps with a diameter of about 1 m. To prolong the flowering time in the curtains, gladioli are selected according to the flowering time: OR - very early, P - early, C medium, SP - medium late P - late. And you can stretch the flowering of the curtain by picking onions of different sizes from the first to the third analysis

Beautiful neighbors for large-flowered gladioli:

• helenium (herbaceous many years up to 70 cm);
• Kohija (annual shrub up to 100 cm);
• klopogon (tsimicifuga) (height up to 1,5 m, a lot of peduncles and thick foliage);
• lupine;
• eremurus.

Along the perimeter of the curtains below the gladiolus can be podbi low-aged annuals: marigolds, begonias, pelargonium nasturtium.

In each case, the selection of plants is determined by the color scale, which should not disturb the overall harmony of the garden.

Types of gladioli

I want to emphasize that I select varieties of Russian collectors, because they are grown in conditions close to ours, they quickly adapt, with fewer problems. Foreign countries can not withstand our climatic and soil conditions, as they grew in a different climate and on other soils. Although I have several varieties of foreign breeders. I tried to be engaged in selection of gladiolus, I have several varieties and proudly show them to my neighbors and relatives.

But this work is not easy, it takes a lot of effort and time.

© Author: Raisa MORKEL, member of the regional gladiolus club in Moscow

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Growing gladioli - planting and care. FLOWER TIPS AND TIPS

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Gladioli - Favorite Flowers

One of my favorite colors is gladiolus. I have been growing them for a long time, so I have accumulated some experience, which I want to talk about.

Patients - no place in the flower garden

I’m planning to prepare corms for 15-20 days before planting. First, I clean them from integumentary scales, carefully examining each for damage by diseases or pests. A good and healthy corm is distinguished by a dense and shiny surface, and there are already buds and buds of roots. Dried or damaged ulcers, mold-covered bulbs, I advise you to immediately throw it away. For germination, corms are arranged in two rows with the kidneys up in a bright, warm place, protected from direct sunlight.

What are the kids?

Healthy babies have a clean surface, without damage and stains. Their diameter is approximately 4-5 mm or slightly larger. If there are a lot of children and there is absolutely no time to clean them, then before planting, you can simply soften the hard cover. To do this, soak them in a weak potassium permanganate solution for 10-12 hours or in 1% soda solution for 1-2 days. After this, the shell of the children will become soft, therefore, it will not prevent germination.

I want to note that from a large child with only one root tubercle, a not very strong plant will grow compared to a small child, but with three tubercles. Children retain viability until the 4 years, of course, subject to the integrity of their integument.

Landing

Before disembarking, I choose a sunny place for gladioli, protected from piercing strong winds. Avoid waterlogged lowlands. Most suitable is loose, moisture-intensive, loose, but not heavy soil.

I dig a bed in advance, dress it with already ripened compost. Fresh manure must not be used! To compensate for the lack of organic matter, it is better to use mineral fertilizers introduced during the season.

I dig trenches on the bed: for large corms, the depth is 15 cm, medium - 7-9, children - 5 cm. If the soil is light and strongly settles after irrigation, then large corms can be dug into the soil by 20 cm. I advise you to pour a large sand with a layer of 2 cm. Top the bulbs with wood ash, cover with sand, pour a solution of warm potassium permanganate and cover it with earth. It is not necessary to use sand, but such a technique makes it possible to improve the composition of heavy soils and saves corms from diseases. In autumn, this makes it easy to remove corms from the ground with the children.

Keep the distance between the bulbs according to size. I have an interval between large bulbs of 10-15 cm, medium ones of no more than 10, between children - 3-7 cm. It is better to leave about 20-25 cm between rows.

To speed up the emergence of seedlings, I recommend to cover the beds with a film, creating a tunnel of thick wire. When freezing shoots cover or spud earth. After planting and germination of gladioli, the bed is mulched with a layer of humus in 5-7 cm. Mulch helps protect the surface from overheating, overcooling, drying out, allows you to drown out the germination of weeds and will become additional fertilizing.

Grow gladioli and enjoy their charm, grace and splendor of bright colors!

Council

Gladioli tolerate the cold well, but they need to be planted in a fairly warm soil to a depth of 10 cm. Before planting the bulbs, it is worth treating with a weak solution of potassium permanganate for disease prevention.

© Author: Natalia Ivanovna GOMONOVA, Oryol Region, Livny

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