How to properly water the vegetables in the heat
Watering vegetables in the heat and drought - doing the right thing
Watering the garden in a dry summer is the most important technique in the struggle for the crop.
Among vegetable plants, there are also their spenders and economists. Based on the biological characteristics of cultures, their own capabilities and long-term observations, I established the following order and frequency of watering the beds.
Cucumbers and zucchini they have an underdeveloped root system and spend a lot of moisture on the growth of lashes and juicy fruits. Therefore, I pour them with warm water after 1-2 days (and in severe drought - daily), spending 5-10 liters per square meter. In hot weather, they like to "lower their ears" even with sufficient moisture in the soil, then they are shown a light, warm shower in the afternoon.
Peppers and aubergines - Active "evaporators", so the second in line. Their roots are not deep in the soil, with a lack of moisture, the stems quickly turn green, the flowers and ovary fall, the fruits are smaller and the yield is reduced. The rate of watering per plant is 2-3 liters of water.
Cabbage - also a strong chowder. All her seedlings need to be watered abundantly until she starts growing.
Colored and broccoli pampered with water twice a week during the formation of the heads. Early cabbage needs intensive watering in June, late cabbage in late July and August at the stage of head formation. She also loves sprinkling.
In the high humidity of the soil, during the entire growing period, all the roots of the family Cabbages: radish, radish, turnips, rutabaga. They have weak roots, but they are lopushy leaves. Therefore, they absorb moisture from the soil poorly and spend it uneconomically.
Tomatoes love a dry head, but wet feet. To excess moisture in the greenhouse is not to provoke the development of phytophthora, I pour water into the furrows between the rows. And I always remember that when the moisture is evenly moist, the fruits do not crack and are not affected by vertex rot. In the open ground I water the tomatoes only once when planting. By the way, the tomato responds well to watering with cold water in hot weather.
Onion and garlic poorly extract moisture from the soil, but spend it sparingly, so if the summer is rainy, then do not water them at all. In dry and hot weather I do this once in 7-10 days, combining watering with top dressing. For a month and a half before the proposed cleaning (usually from the middle of July), I stop watering the onions: excess moisture at this time delay the ripening of the bulbs.
Beetroot watering is not very demanding. Although it intensively consumes moisture, it produces it well. Once a week I only water the one that I plant seedlings for early production. Sown with seeds - only before thinning and after top dressing if there is no rain. The same goes for carrots.
Potato I water only the early one, planted with sprouting tubers. I pour water into the grooves. When the soil will dry a little, I loosen it from above and sprinkle with peat or humus.
Pumpkin however, despite its impressive dimensions, it is able to produce water for itself, therefore I water it only in childhood, until the first hilling. Leafy leaves in extreme heat are its protective reaction.
Reference by topic: Auto-watering by own hands
Resistant to lack of moisture, heat and drought Watermelon, Melon, Corn, Beans (except for asparagus). I water them no more than two or three times per season, necessarily combining watering with fertilizing.
On a separate line
Sprinkling with sprinkling the most like cucumbers, cabbage, green vegetables, with the exception of salads (rotting "heart", the leaves become dirty).
For vegetable crops, the water temperature is very important. Often, even with sufficient watering, plants still suffer from a lack of moisture.
This is explained by the fact that the cooling power of roots decreases from cold water from heat-loving vegetables, which means that its intake into plants decreases. For them comes the so-called physiological drought.
Proven techniques
After watering or rain, I always try to loosen the soil. But not immediately, but as soon as it begins to crumble well. I do this with a flat cutter, it is convenient for them to pick up the roots of the weeds, not digging too deeply into the soil.
The main purpose of loosening is to break up the formed crust, thereby ensuring free access of oxygen to the root system. Meanwhile, this process is laborious. To minimize it, I apply, where I can, mulching. For example, I fill the bed with garlic with leaves in the fall, in the spring I do not remove them, but leave them in the center of the ridge. This significantly reduces the area of weeding and cultivation and allows me to grow garlic without watering. Other vegetables are usually mulched with humus mixed with garden soil and peat.
On a separate line
Mulching the soil significantly reduces the need for watering, and the plants feel more comfortable.
Watering with top dressing
Mineral root top dressing quickly acts on plants. But if you give them often, the microflora of the soil is gradually dying. Therefore, I use fertilizers carefully, never overestimate doses, I only add them in a liquid form (0,2-0,3% solutions) after watering or rain, and only when I consider that they are extremely necessary.
Mineral dressing necessarily alternating with organic.
Mineral top dressing I cook like this.
I dissolve in a plastic bucket 0,5 kg of a well-soluble mineral fertilizer such as a kemira or a solution of grade B (you can take nitrophosphate), preferably if they are also with microfertilizers. I poured into a plastic barrel.
The day before feeding in 1 l of water, I dilute 200 ml of EM preparation, I add there a glass of old (not boiled) currant jam, I insist until the next morning and before the top dressing I pour into the barrel.
With this solution, it is possible to carry out both root and foliar top dressing. Preference for foliar I give especially from periods of prolonged cold snap.
To prepare organic dressing, I take what is literally under my feet: nettle, dandelion, sow thistle, clover ...
I crush the green mass with an ax and fall asleep in a plastic barrel, filling it with 2 / 3. I pour water almost up to the top and close the lid tightly so that nitrogen does not evaporate from the infusion. It is also believed that cooked without oxygen access, the infusion contains a more useful microflora.
See also: Norms of watering plants
During the preparation, it is advisable to open and mix the mass at least once a day. If the weather is warm, then usually the infusion is ready in a week. You can find out about this by stopping fermentation: the liquid stops foaming.
In the first half of summer, almost all vegetable and fruit crops, as well as flowers, can be fed with this infusion. In the second half - only vegetables, the fruits of which are consumed immediately (since it contains nitrogen).
Almost all summer infusion, diluted in the proportion of 1: 10, water peppers and eggplant. Cucumbers, zucchini, sugarcorn and cabbage are well responded to such feeding.
Before watering in a bucket with infusion, add ash or mineral fertilizers, the dose and amount of which regulate depending on what culture I will feed.
Author: N.SOLONOVICH, scientist, agronomist
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I water from the hose I'm drilling their well water
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I have a garden. But in the summer, in the midst of work, often have to go on business trips for 2-3 weeks. Obviously, a plot that has not been watered for so long will not produce a good crop. The novelty - hydrogel helped solve the problem.
Outwardly, it looks like sugar crystals. With an excess of moisture in the soil, the hydrogel absorbs it, increasing dozens of times, with a deficiency - it gives up. Thus, it protects plants from both drought and waterlogging. Moreover, the hydrogel itself does not have any harmful effects on the soil and plants.
Now, when I plant crops that need constant watering — tomatoes, cucumbers, bell peppers, zucchini — I put a hydrogel already saturated with water in the wells. I mix one handful of crystals with five handfuls of earth. I surely water the wells abundantly, so that the substance is better saturated with water.
Cultures that grow in rows (onions, garlic, greens), "fertilize" hydrogel at the rate of 30-35 g for 1 sq. M. m. The deeper the root system of the plant goes into the earth, the deeper I seal the hydrogel.
By the way, when feeding crops, half of the previous dose of fertilizer is now enough. Hydrogel crystals retain their properties for many years - having spent one time, I provided the garden with proper watering for years to come.
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Trees and bushes are more practical and, more importantly, more efficiently watered point-wise. For this purpose, under each tree and bush, we dug vertically the plastic pipes. With the help of a hand drill, this is done quickly and easily, and the tool is used for a very long time. For currants and gooseberries, the pipes have been chosen shorter, for grapes and trees - more authentic.
Now, as necessary, we insert the hose
into the pipe and water the tree or bush. After watering, the upper hole in the pipe is closed with the bottom cut from the plastic bottle so that the mouse does not accidentally fall there.
If desired, instead of pipes for watering bushes you can use the same plastic bottles. You only need to cut off the neck of the bottle, and cut the bottom only on the 2 / 3 circle. A tube with a lid will be obtained: lifted, a hose or a spout of water was inserted, watered, the bottom was returned to its place. We will be glad if our advice will bring someone benefits.
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The method of sprinkling, i.e. on leaves, in the morning or in the evening you can water cabbage of all kinds, cucumbers, radish, radish, carrots, beets, lettuce, dill, spinach, because they have an underdeveloped root system and a large leaf device. Root tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, pumpkins and zucchini under the root. In the furrows - potatoes, onions and garlic. The most effective are drop and subsoil (water under pressure is fed into the soil through the system of pipes through the pores or openings in them), irrigations that prevent the formation of soil crust can be combined with top dressing.
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Which vegetables are best for watering on leaves, what are the roots, and for which it is necessary to pour water only around?