How to improve sandy loam
Improvement and fertilization of sandy soil
Sandy soil quickly dries up, and then is carried by the wind and dust, as it often is structureless (it does not have lumps). But its advantage can be considered a good warming in the spring, due to which plants begin to vegetate earlier, and also excellent workability and air capacity.
For a few seasons, even such a soil can be significantly improved.
Note that mineral fertilizers must be brought into the sandy soil more often than in loam.
It is better to do an agrochemical analysis of the soil first, and only then add the missing fertilizers. Remember that an excess of some element, as well as its lack, is harmful to plants.
WE DO THE CLAY CASTLE
If you got a new site, then at the end of the construction before filling the new soil on a sandy base, arrange a "clay lock" (clay layer 7-10 cm). It will retain watering water in the root zone (up to 40 cm). The clay is also added to the sandy soil under the digging.
WE USE SOIL ADDITIVES
To improve sandy soil, it is important to use organic fertilizers. Each summer resident can use plant residues and food waste to prepare compost.
Also, before entering the ground, you need to compost sawdust, lawn grass cuttings, straw and tree trimmings, adding nitrogen fertilizers during the process, as bacteria that decompose wood absorb a lot of nitrogen. In modern country cottages it is sometimes difficult to buy manure, and its use on small allotments in flower gardens is not always convenient.
In addition, not all plants tolerate it. Therefore, granular chicken manure can be added to the soil (0,7-1,0 kg / m2), as well as deoxidized peat with a pH of 5,5-7 (7-10 l / m2) Agroermiculite, an environmentally friendly mineral from the hydromica group, which easily absorbs water and the minerals dissolved in it, is rarely used unfairly today and is gradually given to the plant.
Entering of agvromiculitis (6-8 l / m2) on sandy soils very quickly gives a tangible result.
Organics on the site can be scattered over the surface, and then mixed with the ground with the help of rakes or (p) those digging.
If the plot area is large, try to apply fertilizer directly to the planting pit, depending on the size of the coma, plants are taken to the tree-from 10 to 30 l peat, to the shrub-5-10 l peat, 0,5-1 kg chicken manure or 3-5 l agrovermiculitis.
See also: A vegetable garden on Mitlajderu - creation of fertile soil
What to grow on sandy loam?
On sandy loamy soil, drought-tolerant and undemanding soil fertility is good, such as apricot, quince, cherry plum, cherry, cherry, sea buckthorn, golden currant, irgan, root crops, onions, potatoes, corn, leguminous and almost all vegetable crops.
From ornamental plants can be successfully grown: pine ordinary, black and mountain, spruce, juniper virgin, rock, Chinese and Cossack, birch, catalpa, snow leopard, spiraeus, tamarix, alpine plants, flowering florets and grains.
Author V.Roy
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We have problems with water on the site. If the garden is still more or less lacking, then the garden, we, unfortunately, can not afford to water often. Many trees because of this began to bear fruit poorly. I think if nothing changes with the water in the next few years, maybe we should plant trees that are drought-resistant in the garden? The soil is sandy loamy.
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The main problem of sandy loamy soils is that they do not retain moisture well. Nutrients from sandy and sandy loamy soils are washed very quickly, in summer such soils overheat, and in winter they freeze more strongly. Plants suffer from lack of water, nutrient deficiencies. You can pick up drought-resistant, frost-resistant plants, but still have to farm.
The most stable bushes and trees: barberry, hawthorn, honeysuckle, gooseberries, irga, raspberries, sea buckthorn, bird cherry, cherry. When planting plants, it is necessary to prepare a planting pit deeper than usual, and it is compulsory
add to it elements that improve the structure and composition of the soil, retain moisture at the roots: leaf humus, garden compost, peat (1 bucket per 1 sq. m). You can make 1 -2 buckets of clay per 1 square. m - this will significantly improve the structure of sandy loam soil. True, there is a condition - clay must be applied dry, crushed. If you add clods, they will be mixed with sand for a very long time. Sowing siderates also gives a good effect. To retain moisture, sandy and sandy loamy soils should be mulched. This allows you to reduce the evaporation of moisture, in addition, weeds in the mulched areas grow much less.
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The site that I acquired this year has a rather uneven terrain, and it’s very damp in the lowlands - after rains there is no way to walk without galoshes or rubber boots, squish underfoot. I decided to align everything and order a couple of cars with fertile land, because I have plans to make an extensive garden. When he began to communicate with truck drivers who are engaged in delivery, they began to explain to me that one pound is indispensable, it must be mixed with sand, otherwise the whole backfill in the damp lowlands will "go into the water" over time. I suspected that this was just a banal wiring me for money. I asked the neighbors, and they said that, in principle, this should be done, but you can do it. Is it necessary or not? Who will say anything about this?
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After construction, there was a crumb of stone-shell rock. I read that it can be used to improve the soil. At me it clay, and in last year's drought this "concrete" it was impossible to dig up in the autumn. What is the best way to use crumb of shell rock? Under what crops should I make? Does it alkali the soil or oxidize it?
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Shell rock is a natural stone, formed mainly from shells of mollusks, i.e. it can serve as a source of calcium in the soil. If the crumb stone is well crushed (ideally the size of the granules should not be more than 5 mm), it can be applied in autumn as a lime fertilizer in a dose of 0,5-1 kg per square meter, mixing well in the plow layer. Large granules are better
seal in clay soil - improve the water and air regime, the ground will be less covered with a crust. You can make shell rock almost all the crops that love the soil with the reaction of the environment, close to neutral (cabbage, tomato, cucumber, beans). The exception is root crops. With the addition of calcareous fertilizers, they can manifest some diseases.
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I improve the soil so (not necessarily sandy loam)
In October-November, I chop or cut the shovel already lodged siderat, sown in August-September. After they are closed under a digging. I liked to use lupines, vetch, alfalfa, clover as siderates. But the neighbors sow everything with rye or oats, which are closed in the spring.
As the earth at us dense, for loosening time in 4 of year I bring pereprevshie sawdust. Gradually decomposing, they turn into humus and serve as food for microorganisms.
Once in 3-4 I sprinkle the beds (especially those where I'm going to grow potatoes and cabbage) with ashes. It is a storehouse of trace elements.
Also in the fall I scatter on the soil under the digging phosphate and potash fertilizers. If I only sell the complex, I keep it to be with the minimum content of nitrogen: usually on the packaging and they write - in the fall. I always observe the norm according to the instructions, because, as you know, it is better to underfeed than overfeed.
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I figured out how to get an excellent harvest of tomatoes and cucumbers, without humming and loosening these crops every single season.
In mid-May, she planted cucumber seeds in one greenhouse, and tomato seedlings in another. After 10 days, tomato seedlings took root, it was time to spud it. At that time, after bargaining, I bought peat at a great price. I added about 1 liter of peat under each tomato bush (it should not be sour). After 3 weeks - another 2 liters. And a month later she made the third bedding.
For 40 bushes, it took me 2 bags of this natural material, for only 160 rubles. But over the summer, I never had to either huddle or loosen the ground around the bushes. Thanks to the bedding, the soil has already become loose, air and moisture permeable here. In addition, during hilling, the roots of plants are often injured, at. This was not the case here, the root system grew well, and the plant received enough nutrition. The tomato harvest was good - it turned out to be <1,5 times more than usual. Cucumbers especially do not like loosening, even shallow ones - some of the roots are very easily damaged. Therefore, they also liked this method. I poured peat under the cucumbers 3 times, but it took even less than for tomato bushes. Among other things, peat has proven to be a reliable barrier against weeds. They had no chance of growing under a layer of peat. Cucumbers this year, too, pleased us, the last fruits were harvested in mid-October - and this is in an ordinary greenhouse, covered with plastic wrap!