32 Review (s)

  1. Galina Sycheva, Moscow

    White bloom on gooseberries - What's with my gooseberries - (pictured)?

    Gooseberries - cultivation, varieties and disease control

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      - Gooseberries are affected by American powdery mildew. The disease is caused by a fungus that develops many (10-11) generations over the summer, re-infecting plants.
      Control measures
      During the growing season, in order to protect the plants from infection, treat them with a solution of soda ash (linen) with soap (50 g of soda and soap per 10 liters of water) - before flowering, immediately after it, and then 3-5 times with an interval of 8 10 days.

      In early spring, before the buds begin to bloom, spray the bushes and the soil under them to destroy the wintering infection with a solution of ferrous sulfate (300 g per 10 liters of water).
      Use healthy planting material. Take layers only from healthy bushes.

      Reply
  2. V. FROLOV Belgorod

    Gooseberry bushes began to ache: leaves and fruits with dark spots, then turn yellow, dry out and fall off. The neighbor "made a terrible diagnosis" (the name cannot be pronounced right away).
    Gooseberry anthracnose is a fungal disease. Young shoots and leaves are covered with small deep brown sores. In the affected bushes, the supply of plastic substances decreases, hence the resistance to frost decreases, and as a result, a poor harvest. Sometimes in the middle of summer the bushes are almost completely naked, without foliage. The disease develops more often in rainy seasons (in case of its outbreaks, you can remain without a crop at all), and the infection is really difficult to cure (it persists even in winter on fallen leaves).
    Unfortunately, there are no gooseberry varieties that are absolutely resistant to anthracnose, but the Salyut, Krasnoslavyansky, Kazachok, Consul, and Commander varieties are more resistant.
    I sprayed the bushes in the spring, before budding, and then in the fall, when the leaves fell, with a 1% Bordeaux mixture (100 g of copper sulfate and lime per 10 liters of water). I learned that in case of mass damage, it is necessary to process the plantings during the growing season three times: after flowering, then after 10 days and when you have collected all the berries.
    As a preventive measure, I advise everyone not to allow thickening of the plantings, be sure to burn the fallen leaves, carefully dig up the ground under the gooseberry, and in addition to organic and complex fertilizers, add copper sulfate or zinc sulfate (Zg per 10 liters of water).

    Reply
  3. Vera Akhremchik

    Is there any way to save gooseberries?
    The berries are covered with a white bloom ...

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      - Powdery mildew (spheroteka) on gooseberries. It is a ubiquitous fungal disease that affects gooseberries and currants. Wet weather contributes to the spread of the disease. The source of infection is the affected shoots, fallen leaves and berries, on which the fruiting bodies of the fungus with ascospores overwinter. They appear on gooseberries soon after flowering, affecting first young shoots with leaves, and then fruit ovaries. These parts of plants are covered with a white, later brown tomentose bloom. Young growth suffers especially strongly from powdery mildew.

      Control measures
      After fruiting, treat the plants with a fungicide (Bayleton, Fundazol) according to the instructions.
      Cut and burn diseased shoots.
      Dig deep under the bushes, apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (in August).
      In the future, use powdery mildew-resistant gooseberry seedlings (Neslukhovsky, Malakhit, Chernomor, Commander).

      Reply
  4. Elena OSS

    Three rules of gooseberries

    For myself, I brought out the main rules for caring for gooseberry.
    1. Good nutrition First time I feed immediately after flowering - I bring under the bush 10 kg pereprevshego manure or compost. This helps the plant to form powerful shoots and increases yield. After picking berries to gooseberries laid flower buds, mix superphosphate (5 st.l) and potassium sulfate (1 st.l.), evenly scatter under the bush, I seal the rake in the soil and water well.
    2. No neighbors! Familiar in order to save space, put between gooseberry bushes vegetables or flowers. I do not do this, because these plants take nutrients from the bushes.
    3. Shrinkage of shoots At the end of June and the beginning of July on young shoots I count the bottom of the 5-7 internodes, and cut everything off higher. This simple technique increases the yield of the bush, and the berries themselves grow much larger.

    Reply
  5. Polina SMIRYAGINA, Pskov region

    Gardeners who grow gooseberries can run into trouble like goblet rust. This disease begins with orange spots on the leaves in the spring, which by the beginning of summer turn into bloating glasses. As a rule, spores of the parasite fungus fall on gooseberries from weeds, especially often from sedge. On the weeds, the mushroom hibernates, and in the spring it affects berry bushes.
    In the middle of summer, diseased leaves lose shape, curl and eventually crumble, berries wither and fall off too. Significantly higher risk of the appearance of goblet rust on lowland, wetlands, favorable for the growth of sedges and, accordingly, for the habitat of the fungus. That is, in low places gooseberries are best not to plant.
    If you notice signs of illness, immediately cut and burn the affected shoots. Use also organic top dressing, they strengthen the immunity of the plant and have a disastrous effect on the fungus of the glassy rust.

    Another proven tool is soda solution. It is especially effective in the early stages of the disease. Dilute 2 tbsp. l baking soda in 10 liters of water, add a little liquid soap and spray the bushes until flowering. Repeat the treatment after harvesting.

    Reply
  6. Alexandra N. Poryvay, Krasnodar

    Gooseberries can not be called moody. Although, like all berry plants, it bears fruit better on fertile, structural soils. However, he has one indispensable requirement (no matter what soil it grows on) - sufficient moisture. Therefore, I recommend that when the berries are poured, it is good to water the gooseberry bushes, especially if the weather is hot. The yield of berries will increase by 20%. But keep in mind that areas with stagnant moisture will also not work.

    Reply
  7. Vladimir KUHTO

    For 6 years of cultivation, my gooseberry bushes did not hurt. First of all, I select varieties that are resistant to diseases and adapted to local conditions. In my still small collection - Belarusian Red, Coral, Chernomor, Black Negus, Yarovoy, Kurshudzintars and Krasnoslavyansky. Gooseberries planted in a sunny open area at a distance of 1,5-2 m from each other.

    The bushes are well illuminated, aerated and, as a result, are not affected by fungal diseases.

    A bucket of rotted compost and a handful of ash were introduced into the planting pit 40 × 40 cm in size. Watering well watered, sprinkled the soil in places of ravines and mulched with foliage.
    By the way, mulching is an important technique in agrotechnics! In the autumn, under the bushes, I heat the leaves, the withered and sloping grass, which has darkened the straw. In the spring, this "good" is shoving away from the plants, so that the earth warms up. But already in the beginning of summer I constantly hide the area near the grass with mown grass and weeded weeds.
    Mulch retains moisture, maintains soil structure, is the food and habitat of soil microflora. Some varieties (Belarusian Red, Coral) produced supports, so that the branches with the crop did not fall to the ground. Until 5-6-year-old bushes do not cut: they grow, increase yield. In adult plants in the early spring (before the beginning of the sap flow), I remove the branches thickening the crown, and also cut off the shoots that tend to the ground.

    Reply
  8. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    Gooseberries are collected, and thoughts are already about the future harvest. Fruit buds in this shrub are laid in the second half of summer, so in passing water and feed.
    I always water only under the root, otherwise powdery mildew is right there, it's almost the only scourge of gooseberries. I chose a solution of baking soda (5 g per 1 liter of water) and vitriol (3 g per 1 liter of water) from many products. I process it as soon as I notice a white coating. I do not let the bushes grow, the best option is a bush with five main branches, after picking berries I cut ugly and old shoots.
    Recently I found information that gooseberries can be successfully propagated by planting golden currants. The fact that the golden currant is a beautiful stock, I know! Its roots reach 1,5 m in length, it takes food from the very depths, on it you can form a beautiful bole of gooseberries! But I can’t imagine what it looks like! Has anyone tried this? Progressive gardeners, answer me!
    THEM. Aleshin, Nizhny Tagil

    Reply
  9. OOO "Sad"

    Gooseberries are my favorite gardening culture. One misfortune, oh, and he has spiny bushes! Every time I harvest, I almost cry - all hands are punctured with thorns. And I’m already 80 years old, such adventures are already useless. So what to do? And, in the end, I came up with a device.
    I took a thin plate, cleaned it with sandpaper and cut out a small blade with a knife with a knife. And in the wide butt of this scapula, she hammered in two small nails. Now I'm just using this tool to bend the branches covered with berries, raise them and calmly harvest. It is very convenient: both hands are intact, and the fruits are not damaged when they are removed (otherwise it all jerked earlier because of thorns, and many ripe berries pressed with many fingers). And recently I thought that this fork, probably, can be bent out of the armature. But this is beyond me, I'll have to ask someone.
    Alexandra Sergeevna Yoshkar-Ola

    Reply
  10. Valentina OGLOBLEVA, the city of Kostroma

    For the second year in a row, my gooseberries have been suffering from powdery mildew. In the first year I sprayed it with a solution of kefir. In the second - a solution of soda. It helped for a while. If this misfortune appears again today, you will probably have to use chemical agents. What are the more sparing but effective methods of controlling powdery mildew? I heard about the use of burnt rubber. How effective is this method?

    Reply
    • Maria SEROVA, Tambov

      Often meet advice: they say, get rid of powdery mildew on berry bushes will help fumigating burnt rubber. This is when the old rubber is offered to be placed in a specially prepared bucket, ignited and fumigated at the beginning of the season before budding.
      I hasten to warn that it is not only undesirable, but even dangerous!
      Of powdery mildew, you, of course, get rid of. That's only harm from such fumigation more than
      benefit. When burning rubber, not only harmful to human and plant gases are released, but also fine soot that settles on the ground and branches, poisoning everything around.
      A safer and easier way is fumigating with sulfur briquettes or sabers. They also release gases harmful to powdery mildew, but do not produce hazardous substances for the earth. Buy these checkers can be in stores for gardeners.

      Reply
  11. Catherine

    If the gooseberries were pulverized
    What kind of feeding is necessary for gooseberries in the spring? And then something last year he chopped. What other reasons can there be for grinding fruits from gooseberries?

    Reply
    • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

      Spring top dressing of gooseberries should be started quite early - as soon as young leaves appear on the branches, pour the plants with a solution of urea and nitrophos (40-60 g per 10 l of water). About a bucket, one and a half, on one bush. Before flowering, spend the second dressing - 10-15 g of potassium sulfate, 4-5 kg ​​of organic fertilizer (compost, humus) and about 200 g of ash for each bush.
      To ensure a good harvest in the next season, in the fall it will not hurt to feed the soil. Both organic and mineral fertilizers are suitable. Gooseberries are getting smaller most often due to improper care - they need regular pruning. Gooseberry branches fruit well for 6-7 years, and thickening of the bush contributes to infection with fungal diseases. Therefore, old, sick, frozen, lying on the ground branches should be removed. Regulate the number of shoots, on one bush there should be 20-25 developed branches. Do not forget about watering - it is especially important after flowering and during the ripening of berries.

      Reply
  12. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    On my site grow six bushes of gooseberry. They are already old, they are about the age of 10, but I constantly take care of them {regularly cut, feed, loosen the ground), the bushes feel rather well and bear fruit well. But in the middle of last summer on one of them the leaves began to acquire a red color and dry up a little, and their edges began to curl up. Completely they all the same have not dried up and have remained in such kind on branches. But there were no new healthy leaves. There were no fruits, except for a couple of three of the same half-dry bunches of berries. In general, the look of gooseberries was achingly, and in this condition he left under winter. Other bushes grew as if nothing had happened and gave a normal harvest. Tell me, please, dear gardeners, what happened to my berry and what measures to take in the spring to cure it?

    Reply
  13. Rashid Aidarovich Kasimov. etc. Rich Saba. Tatarstan

    FIGHT AGAINST LISINGS
    With increased humidity, lichens can settle on gooseberry. In this case, the stems will have a greenish-gray coating. Lichens often develop on the bark of trees and shrubs in thickened low-lying gardens. They clog the microscopic holes of the cortex and thereby impede the flow of air to the internal tissues. Branches of gooseberries wipe with a coarse cloth to clean them from plaque, and clean tree trunks with a wooden scraper. After cleaning, disinfect the surface with 1% solution of copper sulfate or 3% ferrous sulphate solution.

    Reply
  14. Anna Grushnitskaya, Moscow Region.

    I am surprised when they say about gooseberries that they are sour and tasteless. Gooseberries are an all-rounder! The main thing is to find the variety that will be to your taste. For example, in my garden several bushes of different varieties grow at once.
    The earliest varieties in my collection are Eaglet and Russian. Their harvest can be removed in July. The Eaglet’s berries are medium-sized, almost black, with a waxy coating, sweet and sour. The best part is that there are no thorns on its branches, which means that children will not get hurt in search of goodies. The Russian has thorns, but his berries are large, very sweet, dark pink. Harvest from these bushes I practically do not process - eat all the berries fresh.
    Later, ripe varieties, from which I cook jam. It is important that they have large berries with thick walls and small seeds, so they retain their shape
    when cooking. For the so-called "royal" jam, transparent honey, from half the fruit with the seeds removed, I grow an old Malachite cultivar with green round berries almost the size of cherry plum. Collecting them is a pleasure, since the fruit stems are longer than the thorns. For ordinary jam I use the Spring variety. Its berries are elongated-oval, greenish-yellow with a pink "tan", hang on the bushes for a long time. The fruits of the Spring are very tasty and fresh, so we eat them with pleasure.
    The best grade for compotes and home-made wine, in my opinion, is the senade. Its branches are entirely covered with small ruby ​​berries in the form of droplets. In fresh form they are sour, but the drinks from them turn out to be fragrant, with pleasant sourness, rich color.

    Reply
  15. Daniel PLATNIROV. Kostroma region

    How to treat gooseberries?
    Something bad began to bear fruit on gooseberries in the last two years. It seems that there are no pests and diseases, no winters. I think, maybe it needs something to feed him? Until now, I just brought in the spring humus.

    Reply
    • Sergey PATRUSHEV, city of Kirov

      You are right, it is necessary to feed gooseberries not only with organic matter, but also with mineral fertilizers. The amount and composition of top dressing depends on the type of soil - gooseberries love fertile and light. To improve loamy and sandy lands, peat and humus (about 5 kg per bush) and 300 g of ash should be added annually. For light soils, the addition of magnesium sulfate (50 g per bush) is also recommended; acidic soils are well deoxidized with dolomite flour (in addition, it contains many trace elements). As soon as the first leaves begin to appear, it is necessary to make 1 tbsp. Under each bush. l nitrogen fertilizers. When the gooseberry blooms, it is necessary to pour it with a nutrient solution (take 1 tbsp. L nitrophoski and 2 tbsp. L. Potassium humate and dissolve in 10 l of water). During the autumn digging, superphosphate and potassium chloride (2 tbsp. Each) can be added to the soil. Manure, bird droppings and other organic matter is also best done in the fall - enough 1 time in 2 years.

      Reply
  16. Vera LIPAY, Minsk region

    Gooseberries: the harvest will be!
    Gooseberries are always happy with the harvest. It's all about proper care. Firstly, before the bud opening, it is necessary to dilute the bush. I remove the shoots, which are practically lying on the ground, broken, intertwined, very thin and sick. I cut off the tops of the remaining stalks to the first strong lateral branch.
    The second pruning I spend immediately after harvesting: I cut out old branches on which practically there were no berries. Of the shoots that grew in the base of the bush, I leave 4-5 strongest, and the rest I delete.
    About And more: in the beginning of August I pinch annual growths. As a result, the berries become larger, and the harvest is markedly increased. Secondly, podkarmliva. /. As soon as the leaves start to blossom, I water the bushes with this solution: 1 st.l. urea and 2 st.l. nitrofoski on 10 l of water (2 buckets per plant). 2. Next top dressing - at the beginning of flowering: 1 st.l. potassium sulfate on 10 L of water (3 buckets per bush). Previously, under the plant, I scatter 1 art. ash.
    , '}. When the berries are tied, I cook this: 1 tbsp. nitrofoski and 2 tbsp. potassium humate per 10 liters of water (3 buckets per bush).
    4- In late September - early October I mix double superphosphate (1,5 st.l) and potassium sulfate (4 st.l) and evenly scatter under the plant, then water. And at the end of October I bring under the bush the overgrazed manure (0,5 buckets).

    Reply
  17. Dionisy of Vyazemsky, Zhigulevsk

    The yield of gooseberries directly depends on the level of groundwater and light
    5 years I collected a purely symbolic harvest of gooseberries, literally a couple of handfuls from a bush.
    When I told my neighbor-gardener about this, he immediately volunteered to look at my gooseberry.
    It turned out that the main mistake was the wrong choice of the landing site. In the lowlands, where I determined the plant, rain and melted water accumulated, he lacked light and heat. It was in the autumn, so I immediately transplanted the bush above, to a sunny place.
    On the recommendation of the same neighbor, every spring, before leaf blossoming and after harvesting, gooseberry was fed. For these purposes, manure, compost or bird droppings are excellent, thanks to organics, young shoots begin to grow more actively, Simultaneously with the introduction of sub-
    Sterns carefully loosen the soil around the bush to improve the water-air regime.
    In the spring, before budding, she began to trim. I cut out old shoots of dark color at the very base. I remove all damaged and broken branches. The aerial part of the fruiting bush should consist of 18-30 branches of various ages. On all branches, regardless of age, shoots grow annually - annual growths.
    Most of the crop matures on them, so you should not neglect pruning. When I started to do all these tricks, I did not recognize my gooseberry! Fruits have become larger, and this year I collected from one bush about 10 l berries.

    Reply
  18. Alena AGEYEVA, Penza

    Trial by fire
    In the autumn, when leaves are completely falling on a bush of gooseberries, I spend on branches a lit newspaper: as a result, the ends of the thorns burn and stop pricking. In addition, after the "fire" procedure burns spores of powdery mildew, which hibernate on the branches. And they, unlike those that remain in the soil, are the most dangerous, since they begin to "wake up" in the spring very early.

    Reply
  19. E.S. IVOLGINA, city of Tver

    Save the gooseberry from fire
    Apparently, I have some kind of especially tasty gooseberry growing. At least, this is how butterflies and caterpillars of the ognevka believe, which not only lived on my bushes, but also flew from the neighbors. The neighbors, therefore, the moths disappeared, and I appeared in double size. The neighbors are happy, but at least I cry! Grandchildren demand gooseberry jam, and gooseberries can not be properly collected year after year ...
    I began to study this question and found out that the fire in the soil hibernates under bushes and early in the spring they fly out from there. Then I thought: I'll close the ground, so that this muck could not find a way out. Since autumn I covered the ruberoid with the space around the bushes and kept it closed until the gooseberries faded. After that, loosened the soil and mulched it onion peel with garlic.
    I did it all, jam cooked for several years ahead! Part of gooseberry, of course, the caterpillars still ate, but compared to what was, it's day and night. This fall I'll close the roofing felt. By the way, instead of it, I think, you can take polyethylene or a dark film. At the same time, weeds, by the way, will not be!

    Reply
  20. Alevtina MITINA, Kursk

    5 "dishes" for gooseberry
    Young gooseberries went to us "inherited" from previous owners of the site. They also suggested to us a few ways to feed culture organic. We take advantage of these tips and collect delicious large berries.
    It is very important to feed gooseberries 5 times during the year after planting. The first feeding should be carried out during the awakening of the kidneys - in early April. Add a liter jar of potato peelings to a bucket of boiling water. When the infusion cools down to about 50 °. pour 1 cup of ash and immediately pour bushes at the rate of 3 liters per each.
    The second time it is necessary to fertilize gooseberries during flowering. Grind the weeds after weeding and pour them with water. After a week 1 l infusion mix with 1 l dung-
    and dilute in 10 liters of water. Pour the gooseberries, sprinkle the stump of the fertile soil.
    When the berries begin to be tied, and this will be the third feeding, it will fit any herbal infusion, diluted with water (1: 10). After harvesting 1 glass biohumus stir in a bucket of water, leave for a day and treat the plant with the infusion received for the fourth time. And already in early October to prepare gooseberries for the winter for each bush pour on 2 buckets of compost.
    Such a menu is necessary not only for plant nutrition, but also for its protection against diseases. In the future, every 2-3 year, feed gooseberries any organic matter in combination with mineral fertilizer.

    Reply
  21. Evgeny VITYUTNEV, city of Samara

    Gooseberries on a trellis
    I went recently to my neighbor and saw him digging in the poles next to the bushes of currants and gooseberries. It turns out that he decided to grow them on a wire trellis. This experience is not a sin and to adopt, especially since the bushes of gooseberry are planted just on one line, literally in 1,5 m from each other.
    On both sides of the bushes, I dug poles (about 2 m high) to a depth of 0,5 m. I pulled a wire between them: the lower one at a height of 30-40 cm, the middle one at a height of 70-80 cm and the upper one at the end of the column - 1,5, XNUMX m from the ground.
    Since there was still an early spring, I cut the bushes. On gooseberries left on 4 the most powerful branches, which tied to the bottom wire in the form of a fan, and then sent them vertically with a garter to the middle and upper wire. The rest of the branches were cut off near the ground.
    In autumn, as the neighbor said, outgrowth shoots will be able to select 4 the strongest (remove the rest) and tie them to the bottom wire, slightly shortening. And next spring, tie them to the middle and top wire. not shortening.
    I think that now, on the trellis, and the bush will be well ventilated, and the harvest will be much more convenient!

    Reply
  22. Guest

    Nugget is the largest variety of gooseberries. Berries look like apples, slightly elongated. On average for 10, Ripe - reddish color. Taste - five points (according to the Leningrad CSO).
    High quality is the Salute variety. It is not very prickly, but the berries are large (up to 6 g), red, like cherries, undried, sweet-sour taste. Fungal diseases do not stick to him. But cold winters freeze its branches. However, if the summer resident is able to protect the garden roses from the cold, then for the benefit of the harvest of gooseberries all the more can try.
    Good for our gardens Malachite. It is included in the State Register for many regions of Russia. Very yielding. The berries are large, like plums, but always green. Not for nothing is called Malachite. From the top of the head to the ground, the branches are densely covered with crops. Bushes are not affected by powdery mildew, grow rapidly, gain green mass, and bear fruit every year.
    Of the varieties with unpainted berries one of the best is the White Night. In the State Register there are also such worthy grades as: Russian, Russian yellow (those and other berries are good, but the bushes can be seriously damaged by the spherote), Krasnoslavyansky (winter-hardy, resistant to mushroom diseases, large-bodied, tasty), Smena, Finik, Baltic.
    It is enough for us to choose two or three varieties for a garden. October is the best month for planting gooseberries.

    Reply
  23. Inna

    From acne, age spots and freckles, I get rid of gooseberry berries. Daily in the season, once or twice a day, I lubricate the problem areas on the face with the juice of these berries. And also once or twice a week I make masks with a gooseberry mashed into a slurry: I put on my face for 15-20 minutes, I wash it off with cool water. The same mask nourishes and bleaches mature or inflamed skin.

    Reply
  24. Guest

    Against powdery mildew on gooseberries do so.
    In late autumn or early spring, I cut and burn damaged shoots, destroy diseased leaves, dig through the soil. Next year, when the first signs of illness appear, I spray the bushes with a soap solution of calcined soda (50 g soda and 40 g soap for 10 l water). I repeat 2-3 times every 8-10 days. Instead of calcined soda with soap, you can use a three-day water infusion of manure (1: 3). Bacteria that develop in manure, destroy the mycelium of the causative agent of powdery mildew.

    Reply
  25. Vadim

    To facilitate the collection of gooseberries and sea-buckthorn craftsmen invented many adaptations.
    It is necessary to take an aluminum 0,5-liter mug. Its upper edge on the half of the circle opposite the handle, cut with scissors so that the teeth, like a saw, turned out only once in two larger.
    It is worth lifting the branch and holding the jagged edge of the mug
    on the underside of the branch, where berries hang, how they all turn out to be in a mug. The collection time is reduced by several times, and the process itself ceases to be agonizing. Only you have to be very careful not to tear off the branches from the branches, so as not to lose the crop of the next year.

    Reply
  26. Daria

    We fertilize gooseberry
    My family is very fond of gooseberry. It is not difficult to care for him. The plant requires regular watering and loosening of the soil. When ripening berries, I fertilize gooseberries with urea (30-50 g per bush). In autumn, I inject potassium sulfate into the soil (20-40 g per bush) and super-
    phosphate (according to 30-50 g per bush). With annual pruning, I remove shoots older than 7 years, as well as weak, sick, broken branches. I leave about 6 strong twigs.

    Reply
  27. Lyudmila

    In a stubborn fight against pests of the garden, she came to the conclusion that the main condition for success in it is not lethal means and methods, but preventive measures. Therefore, I plan to pick gooseberry and currant berries at one time, and then immediately put the bushes in order. I carefully clean the fallen leaves and berries under them, cut off all broken branches. Then I densely cover the ground under the berry with grass specially mowed for this occasion, water it with herbal infusions and spruce bushes along the perimeter of the crown, slightly sprinkling the grass litter with soil.
    Believe it or not, but not a single weed is observed from such procedures in the berry “compartment” of the garden. In addition, rotted grass is an excellent nutrition and prevention of fungal diseases.
    And the final touch: when harvesting and nutritional work is finished, all bushes are sprayed with any biological preparation. After this, the bushes can be left alone until the fall leaf fall.
    On the eve of the winter, I finally remove all the fallen leaves and treat them with a Bordeaux liquid. By the next summer, my berry toilers are full of health and give many, many excellent berries.

    Reply

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