Gooseberries - cultivation, varieties and disease control
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How to care for gooseberry in the country
The gooseberry season starts in July and, with a successful selection of varieties, lasts until autumn. Fruit-bearing his bushes is always plentiful, they are quite satisfied even with our short summer.
And they carry the cold better than the heat.
It is easier for gooseberries to bear a low winter temperature than a high summer. Once planted a bush - and, read, for life, because in one place it can grow and produce crops for more than a dozen years.
Among gardeners and gardeners gooseberries take pride of place.
Rare inhabitants of the garden will be able to compete with it in a variety of sizes and of course the taste of berries.
So that you know
Gooseberries began to be called the royal berries with the light hand of Catherine the Great. She was so astounded by the taste of jam from green fruits that she gave her cook a precious ring with an emerald.
Sugar, as is known, is not enough in gooseberries, that's why it's possible to call it grapes, even northern ones, with great stretch. But the composition of gooseberry fruit is very close to the wine berry, and the number of vitamins are next to the raspberries. And only from gooseberries (berries of green varieties, covered with hairs), wine is obtained, with taste characteristics most reminiscent of grape.
I want - eat a mature kryzhovngik, I want - immature
Gooseberries - the only berry that is used for cooking to any degree of maturity. They are usually distinguished by three: gooseberry unripe, solid ripe and ripe.
Unripe berries are the first candidates for processing. They are good for stewed and pickled. Berries are picked when they are still solid and have not reached their final size. By the way, with early harvest gooseberry bushes are less depleted.
Note
Compotes are preferable to cook from yellow and green fruit varieties (Russian yellow, Grossulyar, Shalun). Dark-colored berries in sunset become faded and unattractive.
According to the Old Slavic agricultural calendar, the year 2014 is currant-ber-senyi (old Russian bersen - gooseberry).
And immature gooseberries contain in large quantities succinic acid. In nature, it is rare: only in the unripe fruits of gooseberries, grapes, stems of rhubarb, turnip. This is an active biostimulant that stabilizes the functioning of internal enzymes that “manage” metabolic processes. Succinic acid plays a huge role in maintaining the elasticity of blood vessels.
Of the half-shed fruit, jam is usually cooked. The berries are removed in the technical maturity phase when they reach the normal level and begin to acquire the coloration inherent in the variety, but still solid (6-7 days before they mature). Such fruits contain a large amount of organic acids, tannic and pectin substances.
Reference by topic: Gooseberries - planting and care
Keep in mind
One of the easiest ways to preserve all the useful qualities of gooseberries is quick freezing.
Ripe berries are one of the best desserts and excellent raw materials for the preparation of table and dessert wines, varied in color, with a delicate bouquet and a pleasant taste.
For the preparation of dessert wines, varieties with dark-colored berries are the best suited: African, Black Negus, Prune, Black Sea, Anniversary; for dry and semi-sweet wines - Russian, Cossack.
To collect gooseberries and not to be scratched
Many gardeners do not like this unpretentious culture for excessive prickliness. While you collect all the berries from the bush, you risk scratching from head to foot. To reduce the risk to a minimum it is possible if you pick up bushes together: one raises and holds branches, the other collects berries.
Helpful advice
To avoid scratches, bushes for an hour or half a torus before cleaning are abundantly poured with cold water. The spines become soft and there are fewer problems with them. And linen clothespins will help fix the branches so that it is convenient to pick fruit.
To the great joy of lovers of gooseberries, breeders brought out several horseless or slightly horny varieties (it is clear that their seedlings are not cheap).
Buying such, know: no matter how the sellers praise their goods, there is absolutely no gooseberry in nature. The seedlings of the seemingly weak-horned Northern captain or Laskovoy usually get very scratched in adolescence, but as they grow older they become less aggressive. But Vladil (Commander), absolutely smooth in his youth, can grow spines with age. Yes, and paying for smooth branches often have a dark color, a medium size and powdery taste of berries.
If you like large and tasty gooseberries, you will most likely have to choose among the varieties with spines: Belarusian Sugar, Honey, Krasnoslavyansky, Jubilee, Russian yellow, Neslukhovsky, Ural grapes.
However, thorn spines are different. If they are small and there are only on branches older than two years, then they can be reconciled.
The following varieties of gooseberries have minor spines and tasty fruits: Pink 2, Salute, Sadko, Ballet, Lada. Almost completely without spines Captain, Kolobok, Rodnik, Chernomor, African, Grossulyar. And soft-bearing varieties are more resistant to powdery mildew than their prickly brothers.
Also about grades of gooseberry can be read here, here и here
If the bush of gooseberry with spots
From people of the older generation, you can sometimes hear statements about what an amazing gooseberry was in the years of their youth, and now "everything is not right." And they are, in general, right. Modern gooseberry varieties are not at all the ones from which the famous royal jam was brewed. At the beginning of the XNUMXth century, almost all of them were destroyed by powdery mildew (spherical).
Most new, resistant to this disease varieties were derived by crossing European sweet and large-bodied with American, not differing in special taste and size berries (total 1-2 g), but winter-hardy, drought-resistant, weakly harsh and not affected by powdery mildew. From their parents they received many advantages. Unfortunately, there were some drawbacks: the more pleasant the taste, the more capricious the variety.
With competent pruning and planting on a sunny blown place, you can not spray varieties at all Russian, Plum, Pink 2, Spring, Sadko, Lada, Neslukhovsky, Grushenka, Ural gem, Salute, African, Besshipny 2, Eaglet, Northern captain, Black Sea, Prune ...
Do not do without spraying on varieties Phoenix, Lemon Giant, London, Crown Bob, Green Bottle, Antagonist, the mass of berries from 20 to 50
Currently, effective ways to combat this disease have been found. Before blossoming and after harvesting, the drug Topaz is allowed. But resort to it should be only if you are sure that no one will want to eat berries after sprinkling before the deadlines.
Important factor
In the fight against powdery mildew it is important to carry out the treatments in a timely manner. If you are late, the harvest is no longer yours: it was eaten by a fungus.
In my opinion, it is better to take advantage of albeit more troublesome, but safe ways, for which at the first signs of the disease the bushes every 10-15 days, alternating formulations, are sprayed:
- baking soda (30-50 g per bucket of water) with liquid soap (10 g) for better adhesion;
- potassium sulfate - 10 g per 10 l of water;
- milk whey (before use, diluted with water in the ratio 1: 10): the mycelium of the fungus perishes, as the solution from the serum forms an oily film that does not allow the mycelium to breathe;
- infusion of mullein or overgrown hay. Raw materials (1 / 3 buckets) pour 3-4 L of water and allow to brew 3 days. Before spraying, it is filtered and diluted with water (1: 3). Spray every 10-12 days, alternating the formulations.
Gooseberries: planting and care - tips from summer residents
Gooseberries hurry to the rescue
A few years ago, my husband and I had cardiovascular diseases. We already thought of putting an end to the cottage, but the doctor advised us to eat more gooseberries, because in its berries there is a whole natural pharmacy. After that, I immediately decided to breed this plant. I wrote out three varieties: early-maturing Yarovoy, the middle-ripened Leona seedling, late-maturing Finik.
Although it is believed that seedlings need to be planted at the end of September, we did this in the middle of summer - in a hurry. Looking ahead, I’ll say that everything has taken root perfectly.
There is one important condition so that there are no problems with growing: it is better to plant seedlings that are two years old! They put humus in the pits (they dug them into a depth of about two bayonets of a shovel at a distance of 1,5 m from each other), lowered the seedlings, carefully straightened their roots, sprinkled them with earth “with a hill” in order to quickly grow additional shoots. They thoroughly compacted, watered and immediately mulched with mowed grass.
The rules gooseberry care is quite simple. For example, since the future crop is planted at the end of August, immediately after the harvest, I feed potato-phosphorus fertilizer bushes. I also do regular pruning in spring and autumn (there are also no difficulties here - everything is the same as on currants).
I note that the high-quality gooseberry does not get sick, but the bush, which was given by friends, immediately fell ill with powdery mildew. I had to spray twice a season with infusion of mullein (I filled the bucket by a third with manure, added water to the brim and insisted for three days). But next year the same bush got anthracnose. I had to spray during flowering with iron, and after harvesting - with copper sulfate.
And our health, pah-t-fu, now like nothing.
After all, gooseberries are a very productive crop. Especially we love jam from its fruits. I cook it like that. I remove the tails of the berries, wash them, crush them with a wooden nibble, sprinkle sugar (1,5 parts per 1 part of the berries) and cook with the addition of banana slices.
Sometimes I make "royal" jam. With him a lot of trouble, but very original and tasty. I take 1 part hard berries 1,5 parts sugar, walnuts. I cut each berry, squeeze the insides. I wipe this pulp from the seeds, mix with sugar and heat until it is completely dissolved. And the berry skins are filled with walnut slices, forming a berry. I dip the berries in syrup and cook, preferably in two divided doses. The jam is transparent, beautiful, unusual.
© Vera Tomsk
Gooseberries: keep the shape
The most favorable time for planting gooseberries is autumn (end of September – October).
The formation of a gooseberry bush begins with trimming the shoots immediately after planting - this helps to awaken the sleeping buds at the base of the buds and the emergence of new root shoots.
Form a bush with 6-7 strong branches. In the future, every spring cut out all weak, damaged shoots, leaving 3-4 the strongest. By 6-7-year-old age the bush must have 15-18 of different age branches. The bulk of the harvest is focused on last year's growth. Branches with this type of fruiting very quickly grow old: the growth weakens or ceases altogether, the berries grow smaller. In addition, excessive thickening of the plant promotes the development of fungal diseases. Therefore, starting from 5-6-year-old age, the old branches must be removed, and the same number of newly developed basal shoots should be left to replace them.
Tatyana ANDRUSHKEVICH, sc. RUE Institute for Fruit Growing
Neighborhood with gooseberry
As far as I can remember, he was always in our garden. Unpretentious, did not require special care for himself, and berries on it were always in abundance. However, in the 1990s, powdery mildew began to bother much, since the varieties were old, unstable to this disease. I tried to process the bushes with chemistry, but since June in our region is most often cold and rainy, sometimes you will not choose the time for processing. So one year without a crop, another, third ...
And I decided to exchange my varieties for new, resistant to powdery mildew, since there were already enough of them on sale. The old bushes uprooted and planted new ones in another place. And after 2-3 years, when it was time for the berries to appear, something incomprehensible began ...
During the summer, one bush gradually withered. In the fall, I cut it to the ground, in the spring young shoots went, and the bush was restored, but the berries never appeared. The next year, the second bush began to dry, it also had to be cut. Then the third, and so for several years: the bush dries up, I cut it out, for 2-3 years it is restored, then it dries again. And all - there are no berries. But most importantly, the acquaintances to whom I gave layering from these bushes are satisfied - their gooseberry grows well and bears fruit! So this year, in August I’m looking: one bush began to dry again. What kind of misfortune is this ?!
And then suddenly it dawned on me: but all the gooseberry bushes grow near the pear. And those that are closer to it, wither more often, and the one that is far away, withered only once. Apparently, not only black currant gooseberries life poisons, but the pear also seeks to survive it from under its crown! Now it remains only to move it away from the pear.
Effective method to combat gooseberry flies. I will.
Early in the spring, as soon as the soil thaws (or in the autumn, if you are afraid to be late in the spring), cover the soil under the bushes with pieces of linoleum, roofing felt, cardboard, etc., so that there are no cracks if possible. Close the entire projection of the crown. The fact is that chrysalis pupae winter under a bush in the soil at a shallow depth. In the spring, at an air temperature of 10 °, butterflies come out of the pupae, and your shelter will prevent them from getting out - under it they will die. So I got rid of the fire on the currant in 2 years, and then in the second year it was much less. It is useless to cover with a film, butterflies gnaw at it. At the end of June, if the ognevka appears again, remove the shelter so that the caterpillars pupate under the bush, and not somewhere else in a secluded place where you will not get them. And in autumn or early spring, restore shelter again
© Author: N.Vishnyakova
Gooseberry - hernia
I love gooseberries from a village childhood on the Volga, when my grandmother drove me away from the bushes with a “hernia”. Because the most delicious seemed absolutely green, hard as seeds, sour to the tip of the tongue.
By the way, the grandmother was wrong: one of the amazing properties of gooseberries is that it can be eaten at any stage of ripeness. And thinning berries during ripening is useful - the remaining ones will grow larger.
For the past 10 years I have been collecting my collection from its various colors and shades. The collection is small: six bushes - six varieties. When choosing them, they were guided by three basic conditions: winter hardiness is understandable; resistance to powdery mildew (sferotek) and color of berries. Someone includes large-fruited in this list. Someone cares about a weak spike, someone the size and shape of the bushes. In the world there are about 1500 varieties of gooseberries, there are plenty to choose from.
Cut, do not wait
Gooseberries wake up earlier than other berry bushes in our region in March. Therefore, if I did not have time to cut it and thin it in the summer, then I do it at the end of winter. The main thing is to do the work before the kidneys are awakened. I leave the shoots no older than 6-7 years. Some owners also leave 8-year-olds, but, according to my observations, their productivity decreases, and the berries are small. On each bush I leave no more than 20-25 shoots of different years.
Recognizing the age of the shoots is easy. The escape of the first year is direct and bright. Every year new branches appear on it. Accordingly, one branch - 2 years, two - 3 years, and so on. Gooseberries are best planted in September and October. But it is possible in the early spring. I dig a hole with a diameter of 50 cm and the same depth. I mix the fertile soil layer with 8-10 kg of humus (or well-rotted manure), add a handful of complex fertilizer and water it well. This stock is enough for a bush for three years. I always water only under the root, not on the leaves.
Gooseberry and powdery mildew
The most serious danger to my gooseberries, I consider powdery mildew. It is also called “American” because it was from there that it was brought to Europe, and then to Russia at the very beginning of the XNUMXth century. And I almost ruined gooseberries as a species in general.
Therefore, at the first signs of the disease - a white, powdery coating appears on the leaves and berries - I begin to act. I spray the bushes with soda ash (linen) (50 g soda per 10 l of water), add 40-50 g of laundry soap to the solution so that it sticks better. I repeat the treatment 2-3 times in 8-10 days.
You can also use spraying bushes and soil under them with iron sulfate (300 g per 10 L of water) or chlorine lime (1-2 spoonfuls per 10 liters of water). If earlier than in 5 hours after processing it will rain, it is necessary to repeat. But for 2 weeks before the harvest of berries, all processing is stopped.
Types of gooseberries
After various experiments, including with a negative result, I stopped at such a palette.
Red - grade Kolobok. The berries are dark red in color, large, up to 8 g. Taste with a slight acidity. The variety is mid-season, the bush is slightly prickly.
Yellow - White nights. Early, medium-sized berries, 1,5-4,3 g, sweet. The bush is medium-tall, there are a lot of thorns.
Yellow-green - Spring. Early, berries 5-6 g, sweet and sour, medium-sized bush and thorny, it can be said to be average.
Pink flamingo. Mid-season, berries up to 4 g, sweet, with a nutmeg aroma. The bush is vigorous and strongly prickly.
Green - Grossular. Medium-early, thin-skinned berries, up to 8 g, sweet-sour taste with a refreshing aroma. The bush is vigorous, but slightly prickly.
For black berries I chose a new variety of Eaglet. But it's still small, 3-flying. So I hope to see the first berries next summer.
© Author: О.В. GUSEVA, Pskov
How to transplant gooseberry
In the garden, there is often a situation when the bush of gooseberry starts to get in the way. Buying a small seedling, not everyone can imagine how quickly and widely it can grow. An adult bush of gooseberries (depending on the variety) can reach a diameter of two meters. Planted near the path, through 2-3, gooseberry climbs on it with its prickly shoots. Many people put up with this situation and for years suffer that the thorny bushes interfere with the passage. But gooseberries are far from safe, especially when there are children.
Spines gooseberries have the property to break off when you hit the hand. As a result, such a small splinter is formed that it is completely invisible and can not be reached with a needle, as is done with ordinary splinters.
A small prickle of gooseberry can cause purulent inflammation, which doctors call phlegmon of the brush. The hand swells, which is accompanied by a strong reddening and an increase in temperature. Cure such inflammation is possible only surgically.
From all that has been said, it follows that gooseberries, growing inconveniently, need to be transplanted! Gooseberries carry the transplant well, if done correctly.
The technology for transplanting large shrubs is approximately the same. Branches are severely pruned or thinned out to balance damaged roots and the aerial part. In the case of gooseberries, it will be useful to remove ALL stems for security reasons or to leave the youngest, but only in the center. Do not be afraid to cut gooseberries heavily. This will only benefit him - as a procedure for rejuvenating the bush.
After trimming, you need to dig a bush from all sides, retreating at least 30 cm. Then put the board under the roots, resting it in the soil with one end. Put a log under this board (not far from the base of the bush). Get a long lever. Pressing on the long end of the board, the bush manages to extract from the ground.
Carry a bush conveniently on film or tarpaulin. The new pit must be ready and filled with fertile soil. You can use compost. But fresh manure can not be used - it must be over-baked (at least three years) and in small quantities. Mineral fertilizers, too, is better not to add, so as not to burn the roots.
If necessary, the pit can be expanded to the size of an earthen coma, which turned out during the excavation. Roots should fit freely in a new place. The depth of the pit is made so that the bush “sits” at the previous level or even a little deeper (when planting gooseberries and currants, a depth of 5-7 cm is permissible).
Before putting the bush in a pit, it must be well spilled with water (2-3 buckets pour gradually and wait until it absorbs). Watering from above, as do many, does not give the proper effect, the water evaporates quickly.
When preparatory work is in progress to expand and deepen the pit, the roots of gooseberries should not remain in the air, they need to be covered with a damp cloth (or at least wet the newspapers) so that the roots do not dry out.
Finally, put gooseberries in a pit and fall asleep on the roots of the earth. We watered and again poured the earth where it had strongly subsided. Once again, watered and topped with dry soil or compost.
As for the term of the transplant, it is better to do it in the fall. However, in order not to lose the season, you can transplant in early spring, as soon as the soil allows (preferably before budding). The main thing during spring planting is to provide regular watering. To preserve moisture, the soil in the near-stem circle can be covered with pieces of roofing material.
After pruning, many new shoots will go. Superfluous should be removed immediately, without waiting for the fall, while they are still green. Trim their 2-3 times over the summer. Leave only the strongest and well-located shoots. Without pruning, many stems will grow, they will loosen the bush and will interfere with each other. A year later the bush will again bear fruit.
4 SECRETS OF THE CROP
They say about gooseberries that they are from the category of plants that they "planted and forgot." Like, even without leaving it will yield a crop. True, in this case it will be scarce. And if you want a lot of berries, observe four important conditions.
- Plant in groups
Gooseberries of many varieties by itself knot about half the berries of the possible amount. But if at least a couple of other varieties are “hooked” on one bush, the crop will double!
- Form correctly
Gooseberries love the abundance of the sun. But in the process of growth, it forms a lot of long shoots, which over time begin to obscure each other. As a result, the crop drops sharply. Trimming in 3 stages will help.
In the spring before buds open: remove shoots that lie on the ground, broken, intertwined, very thin and sick. For the remaining ones, trim the tops to the first strong side branch.
In the summer immediately after harvesting: cut old branches on which there are either no berries or very few berries. From the shoots that grew at the base of the bush, leave 4-5 the strongest, and remove the rest. The ends affected by powdery mildew, cut to a healthy kidney.
At the end of July-beginning of August: pinch all annual growths. This simple operation significantly increases the yield, the berries become much larger.
- Feed on time
Gooseberries must be fertilized 5 times during the summer.
As soon as the leaves begin to bloom: 1 tbsp. urea and 2 tbsp. nitrofoski per 10 liters of water (the norm is 2 buckets per bush).
At the very beginning of flowering: 1-1,5 tbsp. Sprinkle the ashes evenly under the plant. Azatem pour nutrient solution: 1 tbsp. potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water (3 buckets per bush).
As soon as the berries are tied: 1 tbsp. nitrofoski and 2 tbsp. potassium humate per 10 liters of water (3 buckets per plant).
In late September and early October: 1,5 tbsp. double superphosphate and 4 tbsp. potassium sulfate. Mix fertilizers, sprinkle evenly under the bush and water.
At the end of October: mulch the soil under the plant with rotted manure (0,5 buckets per bush).
- Water in a timely manner
Gooseberries are resistant to drought.
Nevertheless, for the season and he needs two waterings: at the end of May and the end of June (three buckets per plant).
© Author: Alexey VOLODIKHIN, agronomist, Moscow
© Author: Yuri VEREMYEV, Smolensk. Photo by author
Gooseberry Planting - VIDEO
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- Gooseberry cultivation in the Tambov region - planting and care
- Gooseberry varieties for all regions - name and description
- New varieties of gooseberry - planting and care
- Growing gooseberries and currants - planting and care based on American experience
- Gooseberry Pest and Lock Management - Tips
- Gooseberries - cultivation, varieties and disease control
- Old gooseberries - which is better to uproot or tightly cut? My reviews and experience (Voronezh)
- Gooseberries - varieties and pruning (photo), planting and care
- Planting gooseberries in spring - 3 important points for proper planting
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White bloom on gooseberries - What's with my gooseberries - (pictured)?
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- Gooseberries are affected by American powdery mildew. The disease is caused by a fungus that develops many (10-11) generations over the summer, re-infecting plants.
Control measures
During the growing season, in order to protect the plants from infection, treat them with a solution of soda ash (linen) with soap (50 g of soda and soap per 10 liters of water) - before flowering, immediately after it, and then 3-5 times with an interval of 8 10 days.
In early spring, before the buds begin to bloom, spray the bushes and the soil under them to destroy the wintering infection with a solution of ferrous sulfate (300 g per 10 liters of water).
Use healthy planting material. Take layers only from healthy bushes.
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Gooseberry bushes began to ache: leaves and fruits with dark spots, then turn yellow, dry out and fall off. The neighbor "made a terrible diagnosis" (the name cannot be pronounced right away).
Gooseberry anthracnose is a fungal disease. Young shoots and leaves are covered with small deep brown sores. In the affected bushes, the supply of plastic substances decreases, hence the resistance to frost decreases, and as a result, a poor harvest. Sometimes in the middle of summer the bushes are almost completely naked, without foliage. The disease develops more often in rainy seasons (in case of its outbreaks, you can remain without a crop at all), and the infection is really difficult to cure (it persists even in winter on fallen leaves).
Unfortunately, there are no gooseberry varieties that are absolutely resistant to anthracnose, but the Salyut, Krasnoslavyansky, Kazachok, Consul, and Commander varieties are more resistant.
I sprayed the bushes in the spring, before budding, and then in the fall, when the leaves fell, with a 1% Bordeaux mixture (100 g of copper sulfate and lime per 10 liters of water). I learned that in case of mass damage, it is necessary to process the plantings during the growing season three times: after flowering, then after 10 days and when you have collected all the berries.
As a preventive measure, I advise everyone not to allow thickening of the plantings, be sure to burn the fallen leaves, carefully dig up the ground under the gooseberry, and in addition to organic and complex fertilizers, add copper sulfate or zinc sulfate (Zg per 10 liters of water).
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Is there any way to save gooseberries?
The berries are covered with a white bloom ...
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- Powdery mildew (spheroteka) on gooseberries. It is a ubiquitous fungal disease that affects gooseberries and currants. Wet weather contributes to the spread of the disease. The source of infection is the affected shoots, fallen leaves and berries, on which the fruiting bodies of the fungus with ascospores overwinter. They appear on gooseberries soon after flowering, affecting first young shoots with leaves, and then fruit ovaries. These parts of plants are covered with a white, later brown tomentose bloom. Young growth suffers especially strongly from powdery mildew.
Control measures
After fruiting, treat the plants with a fungicide (Bayleton, Fundazol) according to the instructions.
Cut and burn diseased shoots.
Dig deep under the bushes, apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (in August).
In the future, use powdery mildew-resistant gooseberry seedlings (Neslukhovsky, Malakhit, Chernomor, Commander).
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Three rules of gooseberries
For myself, I brought out the main rules for caring for gooseberry.
1. Good nutrition First time I feed immediately after flowering - I bring under the bush 10 kg pereprevshego manure or compost. This helps the plant to form powerful shoots and increases yield. After picking berries to gooseberries laid flower buds, mix superphosphate (5 st.l) and potassium sulfate (1 st.l.), evenly scatter under the bush, I seal the rake in the soil and water well.
2. No neighbors! Familiar in order to save space, put between gooseberry bushes vegetables or flowers. I do not do this, because these plants take nutrients from the bushes.
3. Shrinkage of shoots At the end of June and the beginning of July on young shoots I count the bottom of the 5-7 internodes, and cut everything off higher. This simple technique increases the yield of the bush, and the berries themselves grow much larger.
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Gardeners who grow gooseberries can run into trouble like goblet rust. This disease begins with orange spots on the leaves in the spring, which by the beginning of summer turn into bloating glasses. As a rule, spores of the parasite fungus fall on gooseberries from weeds, especially often from sedge. On the weeds, the mushroom hibernates, and in the spring it affects berry bushes.
In the middle of summer, diseased leaves lose shape, curl and eventually crumble, berries wither and fall off too. Significantly higher risk of the appearance of goblet rust on lowland, wetlands, favorable for the growth of sedges and, accordingly, for the habitat of the fungus. That is, in low places gooseberries are best not to plant.
If you notice signs of illness, immediately cut and burn the affected shoots. Use also organic top dressing, they strengthen the immunity of the plant and have a disastrous effect on the fungus of the glassy rust.
Another proven tool is soda solution. It is especially effective in the early stages of the disease. Dilute 2 tbsp. l baking soda in 10 liters of water, add a little liquid soap and spray the bushes until flowering. Repeat the treatment after harvesting.
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Gooseberries can not be called moody. Although, like all berry plants, it bears fruit better on fertile, structural soils. However, he has one indispensable requirement (no matter what soil it grows on) - sufficient moisture. Therefore, I recommend that when the berries are poured, it is good to water the gooseberry bushes, especially if the weather is hot. The yield of berries will increase by 20%. But keep in mind that areas with stagnant moisture will also not work.
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For 6 years of cultivation, my gooseberry bushes did not hurt. First of all, I select varieties that are resistant to diseases and adapted to local conditions. In my still small collection - Belarusian Red, Coral, Chernomor, Black Negus, Yarovoy, Kurshudzintars and Krasnoslavyansky. Gooseberries planted in a sunny open area at a distance of 1,5-2 m from each other.
The bushes are well illuminated, aerated and, as a result, are not affected by fungal diseases.
A bucket of rotted compost and a handful of ash were introduced into the planting pit 40 × 40 cm in size. Watering well watered, sprinkled the soil in places of ravines and mulched with foliage.
By the way, mulching is an important technique in agrotechnics! In the autumn, under the bushes, I heat the leaves, the withered and sloping grass, which has darkened the straw. In the spring, this "good" is shoving away from the plants, so that the earth warms up. But already in the beginning of summer I constantly hide the area near the grass with mown grass and weeded weeds.
Mulch retains moisture, maintains soil structure, is the food and habitat of soil microflora. Some varieties (Belarusian Red, Coral) produced supports, so that the branches with the crop did not fall to the ground. Until 5-6-year-old bushes do not cut: they grow, increase yield. In adult plants in the early spring (before the beginning of the sap flow), I remove the branches thickening the crown, and also cut off the shoots that tend to the ground.
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Gooseberries are collected, and thoughts are already about the future harvest. Fruit buds in this shrub are laid in the second half of summer, so in passing water and feed.
I always water only under the root, otherwise powdery mildew is right there, it's almost the only scourge of gooseberries. I chose a solution of baking soda (5 g per 1 liter of water) and vitriol (3 g per 1 liter of water) from many products. I process it as soon as I notice a white coating. I do not let the bushes grow, the best option is a bush with five main branches, after picking berries I cut ugly and old shoots.
Recently I found information that gooseberries can be successfully propagated by planting golden currants. The fact that the golden currant is a beautiful stock, I know! Its roots reach 1,5 m in length, it takes food from the very depths, on it you can form a beautiful bole of gooseberries! But I can’t imagine what it looks like! Has anyone tried this? Progressive gardeners, answer me!
THEM. Aleshin, Nizhny Tagil
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Gooseberries are my favorite gardening culture. One misfortune, oh, and he has spiny bushes! Every time I harvest, I almost cry - all hands are punctured with thorns. And I’m already 80 years old, such adventures are already useless. So what to do? And, in the end, I came up with a device.
I took a thin plate, cleaned it with sandpaper and cut out a small blade with a knife with a knife. And in the wide butt of this scapula, she hammered in two small nails. Now I'm just using this tool to bend the branches covered with berries, raise them and calmly harvest. It is very convenient: both hands are intact, and the fruits are not damaged when they are removed (otherwise it all jerked earlier because of thorns, and many ripe berries pressed with many fingers). And recently I thought that this fork, probably, can be bent out of the armature. But this is beyond me, I'll have to ask someone.
Alexandra Sergeevna Yoshkar-Ola
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For the second year in a row, my gooseberries have been suffering from powdery mildew. In the first year I sprayed it with a solution of kefir. In the second - a solution of soda. It helped for a while. If this misfortune appears again today, you will probably have to use chemical agents. What are the more sparing but effective methods of controlling powdery mildew? I heard about the use of burnt rubber. How effective is this method?
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Often meet advice: they say, get rid of powdery mildew on berry bushes will help fumigating burnt rubber. This is when the old rubber is offered to be placed in a specially prepared bucket, ignited and fumigated at the beginning of the season before budding.
I hasten to warn that it is not only undesirable, but even dangerous!
Of powdery mildew, you, of course, get rid of. That's only harm from such fumigation more than
benefit. When burning rubber, not only harmful to human and plant gases are released, but also fine soot that settles on the ground and branches, poisoning everything around.
A safer and easier way is fumigating with sulfur briquettes or sabers. They also release gases harmful to powdery mildew, but do not produce hazardous substances for the earth. Buy these checkers can be in stores for gardeners.
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If the gooseberries were pulverized
What kind of feeding is necessary for gooseberries in the spring? And then something last year he chopped. What other reasons can there be for grinding fruits from gooseberries?
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Spring top dressing of gooseberries should be started quite early - as soon as young leaves appear on the branches, pour the plants with a solution of urea and nitrophos (40-60 g per 10 l of water). About a bucket, one and a half, on one bush. Before flowering, spend the second dressing - 10-15 g of potassium sulfate, 4-5 kg of organic fertilizer (compost, humus) and about 200 g of ash for each bush.
To ensure a good harvest in the next season, in the fall it will not hurt to feed the soil. Both organic and mineral fertilizers are suitable. Gooseberries are getting smaller most often due to improper care - they need regular pruning. Gooseberry branches fruit well for 6-7 years, and thickening of the bush contributes to infection with fungal diseases. Therefore, old, sick, frozen, lying on the ground branches should be removed. Regulate the number of shoots, on one bush there should be 20-25 developed branches. Do not forget about watering - it is especially important after flowering and during the ripening of berries.
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On my site grow six bushes of gooseberry. They are already old, they are about the age of 10, but I constantly take care of them {regularly cut, feed, loosen the ground), the bushes feel rather well and bear fruit well. But in the middle of last summer on one of them the leaves began to acquire a red color and dry up a little, and their edges began to curl up. Completely they all the same have not dried up and have remained in such kind on branches. But there were no new healthy leaves. There were no fruits, except for a couple of three of the same half-dry bunches of berries. In general, the look of gooseberries was achingly, and in this condition he left under winter. Other bushes grew as if nothing had happened and gave a normal harvest. Tell me, please, dear gardeners, what happened to my berry and what measures to take in the spring to cure it?
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FIGHT AGAINST LISINGS
With increased humidity, lichens can settle on gooseberry. In this case, the stems will have a greenish-gray coating. Lichens often develop on the bark of trees and shrubs in thickened low-lying gardens. They clog the microscopic holes of the cortex and thereby impede the flow of air to the internal tissues. Branches of gooseberries wipe with a coarse cloth to clean them from plaque, and clean tree trunks with a wooden scraper. After cleaning, disinfect the surface with 1% solution of copper sulfate or 3% ferrous sulphate solution.
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I am surprised when they say about gooseberries that they are sour and tasteless. Gooseberries are an all-rounder! The main thing is to find the variety that will be to your taste. For example, in my garden several bushes of different varieties grow at once.
The earliest varieties in my collection are Eaglet and Russian. Their harvest can be removed in July. The Eaglet’s berries are medium-sized, almost black, with a waxy coating, sweet and sour. The best part is that there are no thorns on its branches, which means that children will not get hurt in search of goodies. The Russian has thorns, but his berries are large, very sweet, dark pink. Harvest from these bushes I practically do not process - eat all the berries fresh.
Later, ripe varieties, from which I cook jam. It is important that they have large berries with thick walls and small seeds, so they retain their shape
when cooking. For the so-called "royal" jam, transparent honey, from half the fruit with the seeds removed, I grow an old Malachite cultivar with green round berries almost the size of cherry plum. Collecting them is a pleasure, since the fruit stems are longer than the thorns. For ordinary jam I use the Spring variety. Its berries are elongated-oval, greenish-yellow with a pink "tan", hang on the bushes for a long time. The fruits of the Spring are very tasty and fresh, so we eat them with pleasure.
The best grade for compotes and home-made wine, in my opinion, is the senade. Its branches are entirely covered with small ruby berries in the form of droplets. In fresh form they are sour, but the drinks from them turn out to be fragrant, with pleasant sourness, rich color.
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How to treat gooseberries?
Something bad began to bear fruit on gooseberries in the last two years. It seems that there are no pests and diseases, no winters. I think, maybe it needs something to feed him? Until now, I just brought in the spring humus.
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You are right, it is necessary to feed gooseberries not only with organic matter, but also with mineral fertilizers. The amount and composition of top dressing depends on the type of soil - gooseberries love fertile and light. To improve loamy and sandy lands, peat and humus (about 5 kg per bush) and 300 g of ash should be added annually. For light soils, the addition of magnesium sulfate (50 g per bush) is also recommended; acidic soils are well deoxidized with dolomite flour (in addition, it contains many trace elements). As soon as the first leaves begin to appear, it is necessary to make 1 tbsp. Under each bush. l nitrogen fertilizers. When the gooseberry blooms, it is necessary to pour it with a nutrient solution (take 1 tbsp. L nitrophoski and 2 tbsp. L. Potassium humate and dissolve in 10 l of water). During the autumn digging, superphosphate and potassium chloride (2 tbsp. Each) can be added to the soil. Manure, bird droppings and other organic matter is also best done in the fall - enough 1 time in 2 years.
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Gooseberries: the harvest will be!
Gooseberries are always happy with the harvest. It's all about proper care. Firstly, before the bud opening, it is necessary to dilute the bush. I remove the shoots, which are practically lying on the ground, broken, intertwined, very thin and sick. I cut off the tops of the remaining stalks to the first strong lateral branch.
The second pruning I spend immediately after harvesting: I cut out old branches on which practically there were no berries. Of the shoots that grew in the base of the bush, I leave 4-5 strongest, and the rest I delete.
About And more: in the beginning of August I pinch annual growths. As a result, the berries become larger, and the harvest is markedly increased. Secondly, podkarmliva. /. As soon as the leaves start to blossom, I water the bushes with this solution: 1 st.l. urea and 2 st.l. nitrofoski on 10 l of water (2 buckets per plant). 2. Next top dressing - at the beginning of flowering: 1 st.l. potassium sulfate on 10 L of water (3 buckets per bush). Previously, under the plant, I scatter 1 art. ash.
, '}. When the berries are tied, I cook this: 1 tbsp. nitrofoski and 2 tbsp. potassium humate per 10 liters of water (3 buckets per bush).
4- In late September - early October I mix double superphosphate (1,5 st.l) and potassium sulfate (4 st.l) and evenly scatter under the plant, then water. And at the end of October I bring under the bush the overgrazed manure (0,5 buckets).
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The yield of gooseberries directly depends on the level of groundwater and light
5 years I collected a purely symbolic harvest of gooseberries, literally a couple of handfuls from a bush.
When I told my neighbor-gardener about this, he immediately volunteered to look at my gooseberry.
It turned out that the main mistake was the wrong choice of the landing site. In the lowlands, where I determined the plant, rain and melted water accumulated, he lacked light and heat. It was in the autumn, so I immediately transplanted the bush above, to a sunny place.
On the recommendation of the same neighbor, every spring, before leaf blossoming and after harvesting, gooseberry was fed. For these purposes, manure, compost or bird droppings are excellent, thanks to organics, young shoots begin to grow more actively, Simultaneously with the introduction of sub-
Sterns carefully loosen the soil around the bush to improve the water-air regime.
In the spring, before budding, she began to trim. I cut out old shoots of dark color at the very base. I remove all damaged and broken branches. The aerial part of the fruiting bush should consist of 18-30 branches of various ages. On all branches, regardless of age, shoots grow annually - annual growths.
Most of the crop matures on them, so you should not neglect pruning. When I started to do all these tricks, I did not recognize my gooseberry! Fruits have become larger, and this year I collected from one bush about 10 l berries.
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Trial by fire
In the autumn, when leaves are completely falling on a bush of gooseberries, I spend on branches a lit newspaper: as a result, the ends of the thorns burn and stop pricking. In addition, after the "fire" procedure burns spores of powdery mildew, which hibernate on the branches. And they, unlike those that remain in the soil, are the most dangerous, since they begin to "wake up" in the spring very early.
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Save the gooseberry from fire
Apparently, I have some kind of especially tasty gooseberry growing. At least, this is how butterflies and caterpillars of the ognevka believe, which not only lived on my bushes, but also flew from the neighbors. The neighbors, therefore, the moths disappeared, and I appeared in double size. The neighbors are happy, but at least I cry! Grandchildren demand gooseberry jam, and gooseberries can not be properly collected year after year ...
I began to study this question and found out that the fire in the soil hibernates under bushes and early in the spring they fly out from there. Then I thought: I'll close the ground, so that this muck could not find a way out. Since autumn I covered the ruberoid with the space around the bushes and kept it closed until the gooseberries faded. After that, loosened the soil and mulched it onion peel with garlic.
I did it all, jam cooked for several years ahead! Part of gooseberry, of course, the caterpillars still ate, but compared to what was, it's day and night. This fall I'll close the roofing felt. By the way, instead of it, I think, you can take polyethylene or a dark film. At the same time, weeds, by the way, will not be!
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5 "dishes" for gooseberry
Young gooseberries went to us "inherited" from previous owners of the site. They also suggested to us a few ways to feed culture organic. We take advantage of these tips and collect delicious large berries.
It is very important to feed gooseberries 5 times during the year after planting. The first feeding should be carried out during the awakening of the kidneys - in early April. Add a liter jar of potato peelings to a bucket of boiling water. When the infusion cools down to about 50 °. pour 1 cup of ash and immediately pour bushes at the rate of 3 liters per each.
The second time it is necessary to fertilize gooseberries during flowering. Grind the weeds after weeding and pour them with water. After a week 1 l infusion mix with 1 l dung-
and dilute in 10 liters of water. Pour the gooseberries, sprinkle the stump of the fertile soil.
When the berries begin to be tied, and this will be the third feeding, it will fit any herbal infusion, diluted with water (1: 10). After harvesting 1 glass biohumus stir in a bucket of water, leave for a day and treat the plant with the infusion received for the fourth time. And already in early October to prepare gooseberries for the winter for each bush pour on 2 buckets of compost.
Such a menu is necessary not only for plant nutrition, but also for its protection against diseases. In the future, every 2-3 year, feed gooseberries any organic matter in combination with mineral fertilizer.
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Gooseberries on a trellis
I went recently to my neighbor and saw him digging in the poles next to the bushes of currants and gooseberries. It turns out that he decided to grow them on a wire trellis. This experience is not a sin and to adopt, especially since the bushes of gooseberry are planted just on one line, literally in 1,5 m from each other.
On both sides of the bushes, I dug poles (about 2 m high) to a depth of 0,5 m. I pulled a wire between them: the lower one at a height of 30-40 cm, the middle one at a height of 70-80 cm and the upper one at the end of the column - 1,5, XNUMX m from the ground.
Since there was still an early spring, I cut the bushes. On gooseberries left on 4 the most powerful branches, which tied to the bottom wire in the form of a fan, and then sent them vertically with a garter to the middle and upper wire. The rest of the branches were cut off near the ground.
In autumn, as the neighbor said, outgrowth shoots will be able to select 4 the strongest (remove the rest) and tie them to the bottom wire, slightly shortening. And next spring, tie them to the middle and top wire. not shortening.
I think that now, on the trellis, and the bush will be well ventilated, and the harvest will be much more convenient!
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Nugget is the largest variety of gooseberries. Berries look like apples, slightly elongated. On average for 10, Ripe - reddish color. Taste - five points (according to the Leningrad CSO).
High quality is the Salute variety. It is not very prickly, but the berries are large (up to 6 g), red, like cherries, undried, sweet-sour taste. Fungal diseases do not stick to him. But cold winters freeze its branches. However, if the summer resident is able to protect the garden roses from the cold, then for the benefit of the harvest of gooseberries all the more can try.
Good for our gardens Malachite. It is included in the State Register for many regions of Russia. Very yielding. The berries are large, like plums, but always green. Not for nothing is called Malachite. From the top of the head to the ground, the branches are densely covered with crops. Bushes are not affected by powdery mildew, grow rapidly, gain green mass, and bear fruit every year.
Of the varieties with unpainted berries one of the best is the White Night. In the State Register there are also such worthy grades as: Russian, Russian yellow (those and other berries are good, but the bushes can be seriously damaged by the spherote), Krasnoslavyansky (winter-hardy, resistant to mushroom diseases, large-bodied, tasty), Smena, Finik, Baltic.
It is enough for us to choose two or three varieties for a garden. October is the best month for planting gooseberries.
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From acne, age spots and freckles, I get rid of gooseberry berries. Daily in the season, once or twice a day, I lubricate the problem areas on the face with the juice of these berries. And also once or twice a week I make masks with a gooseberry mashed into a slurry: I put on my face for 15-20 minutes, I wash it off with cool water. The same mask nourishes and bleaches mature or inflamed skin.
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Against powdery mildew on gooseberries do so.
In late autumn or early spring, I cut and burn damaged shoots, destroy diseased leaves, dig through the soil. Next year, when the first signs of illness appear, I spray the bushes with a soap solution of calcined soda (50 g soda and 40 g soap for 10 l water). I repeat 2-3 times every 8-10 days. Instead of calcined soda with soap, you can use a three-day water infusion of manure (1: 3). Bacteria that develop in manure, destroy the mycelium of the causative agent of powdery mildew.
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To facilitate the collection of gooseberries and sea-buckthorn craftsmen invented many adaptations.
It is necessary to take an aluminum 0,5-liter mug. Its upper edge on the half of the circle opposite the handle, cut with scissors so that the teeth, like a saw, turned out only once in two larger.
It is worth lifting the branch and holding the jagged edge of the mug
on the underside of the branch, where berries hang, how they all turn out to be in a mug. The collection time is reduced by several times, and the process itself ceases to be agonizing. Only you have to be very careful not to tear off the branches from the branches, so as not to lose the crop of the next year.
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We fertilize gooseberry
My family is very fond of gooseberry. It is not difficult to care for him. The plant requires regular watering and loosening of the soil. When ripening berries, I fertilize gooseberries with urea (30-50 g per bush). In autumn, I inject potassium sulfate into the soil (20-40 g per bush) and super-
phosphate (according to 30-50 g per bush). With annual pruning, I remove shoots older than 7 years, as well as weak, sick, broken branches. I leave about 6 strong twigs.
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In a stubborn fight against pests of the garden, she came to the conclusion that the main condition for success in it is not lethal means and methods, but preventive measures. Therefore, I plan to pick gooseberry and currant berries at one time, and then immediately put the bushes in order. I carefully clean the fallen leaves and berries under them, cut off all broken branches. Then I densely cover the ground under the berry with grass specially mowed for this occasion, water it with herbal infusions and spruce bushes along the perimeter of the crown, slightly sprinkling the grass litter with soil.
Believe it or not, but not a single weed is observed from such procedures in the berry “compartment” of the garden. In addition, rotted grass is an excellent nutrition and prevention of fungal diseases.
And the final touch: when harvesting and nutritional work is finished, all bushes are sprayed with any biological preparation. After this, the bushes can be left alone until the fall leaf fall.
On the eve of the winter, I finally remove all the fallen leaves and treat them with a Bordeaux liquid. By the next summer, my berry toilers are full of health and give many, many excellent berries.