How to harvest and store seeds from their plants
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Procurement and storage of own seeds
Many vegetable growers and flower growers themselves receive plant seeds.
Here a double win: significant savings, as well as the fact that plants grown from their own seeds, better adapted to the conditions of a particular site.
However, remember: do not harvest seeds from hybrid plants, because their offspring are not uniform. In addition, when obtaining seeds of high-quality plants, do not forget that they can be dusted.
Problems will not be with self-pollinating plants (aster, lemon, sweet peas, peas, tomato).
But to get varietal seeds of pumpkin and zucchini will have to isolate flowers. Seed plants are preferably fed with mineral and organic fertilizers, in dry weather, irrigation will be useful.
Responsible selection
To get quality seeds of flowers choose the most healthy, powerful, beautiful plants, marking them, for example. ribbons. When the seeds are close to maturation, the seed plants are cut, brought into the room and hung in a dry place.
The poured seeds are cleaned of debris, the remains of the seed capsules and dried for three to four weeks.
Seeds of vegetable plants are isolated from the largest, well-developed fruits, necessarily ripe on the plant.
To obtain seeds of heat-loving plants it is desirable to grow them in seedlings. Seeds of root crops and cabbage are obtained in the second year, planting the stored root crops and heads to the beds. The exception is radish: its seeds can be obtained in the first year.
To do this, choose a well-ripe, large root crops, cut off most of the leaves, put them on the refrigerator for a few days, and then plant and wait for flowering. If carrot or beetroot blossomed in the first year after sowing (the so-called bloomer), do not leave these plants for seeds - it is likely that their offspring will also be prone to blossoming.
See also: Vegetables growing on seeds
Optimal conditions for seed storage
Well-dried seeds are packed in paper bags and necessarily sign the name of the crop, grade, crop year.
Store them in a well-ventilated room at a temperature of 6-12 ° C and an air humidity of about 55%. Many store seeds in the bottom of the refrigerator or on the veranda. Do not forget that seeds do not tolerate sharp changes in temperature and humidity.
The seeds of the Colored flowers require a warm dry period of storage for three to six months (during this time the embryo development process is completed), later they are also stored at lower positive temperatures. Seeds of some ornamental perennials (crib and others) quickly lose their germination capacity, the optimum storage temperature for them is close to 0 ° C, and they are stored in a moistened substrate.
In order to preserve the seed material, I follow several simple rules.
1. Seeds need to be collected in dry weather. Untreated seeds warmed up in the warmth, covered with mold and spoiled. The seeds of most vegetable crops should have a moisture content below 10%.
Of course, it is difficult to determine the moisture content of seeds without a device. But you can do it in another way. Try breaking the seed. If this can not be done, then the humidity is above normal.
2. Seeds, which I lay for long-term storage, I clean of debris, sick and damaged specimens. For this, tomato seeds, aubergines, carrots and parsley I pour into tissue bags (one-third of the volume) and rub it with my hands. Then alternately I pour the seeds into a weak solution of common salt, mix it, let it settle. Garbage and empty seeds quickly pop up, I delete them. The rest is washed in water and dried.
3. The seeds are better kept germinating if stored at a temperature of 0 ° C to 5 ° C and a constant humidity of not more than 55%. Since it is difficult to create ideal conditions, it is important to ensure that there are no sudden fluctuations in temperature and humidity. Surprisingly. the most suitable place for storing seeds is considered to be living rooms - precisely because of the fact that there are rarely sharp changes in temperature and humidity of air.
4. Seeds should not be stored in plastic bags, but in paper or bagged bags. Suitable for storing large seeds and boxes of chocolate sweets. It is not superfluous to arrange in them ventilation, making small holes in the lid. Also in every box I put on the clove of garlic, which kills pathogenic bacteria.
5. During the winter, not to lose seed, I at least three times sort out the seeds, removing the sick or rotten.
Natalia Antonova, Kaliningrad
See also: Stocking up and storage of flower seeds
Seeds of pepper and tomatoes harvested itself - so cheaper and more reliable
Love of Plaksin, Kemerovo
Do you want to see that in the new season you have grown plants in the beds of the sort that you need? That's what I always dreamed about. Therefore, the seeds of pepper and tomatoes began to harvested itself - and cheaper, and more reliable. Verified!
To get quality seeds, you need, first of all, to properly feed the plants. I use infusion of herbs with the addition of "Humate + 7". "Baikal", "Ovary". I pour water without additives rarely. Once a week in the infusion of herbs necessarily add "Baikal". "Humate + 7" I use once in 15 days, and "Ovary" - according to the instructions.
Pepper I grow all summer under the cover material, so that it was easier to maintain the moisture of the soil in the heat. Even for this culture, foliar top dressings are very important.
In the 3-liter pot, I make an infusion of ashes (2 spoons) and eggshell flour (3 spoon). I leave for 5 days, then filter and spray this infusion with peppers. The result is always good.
Note: the jar in which the infusion is prepared should be placed in a black cellophane bag, as calcium in the light decomposes.
To get sweet pepper seeds I choose the most healthy, strong plants, and on them - the fruits laid on the first fork. Immediately mark them (tie bright ribbons-tags). Fruits on the bush should reach full biological ripeness. Cut them in late August - early September.
After they lie down at home (not in the sun) and wither, I cut out the fruits of the placenta with the peduncle. I put them on a sheet of paper and wait for them to dry. Tried to leave all the fruit, but nothing happened - rotted, because it has too thick walls. But the bitter pepper wilt easily, so I keep it - in the pods.
Seeds of sweet pepper I put in gauze pouches. In the spring I must check for germination. Usually it is almost 100%.
I get seeds of tomatoes of each variety from individual plants specially grown for these purposes. Many varieties do not plant, usually four: 'Bull's heart' (pink). 'Grushovka'. 'Oak', 'Miracle of the Earth'. They have been growing on my site for many years. I am very pleased with them.
Seedlings form in one stem (1). Flowers from the first brush I remove, the second brush I leave with 2-3 flowers. I do not prick the top of my head, I do not cut off the leaves. I clean all my stepsons. Plants I feed organic-mineral fertilizers.
Watering with herbal infusions begins in May, when the second brush appears: in 10 l of water I add 1 l of herbs. 1 st. spoon of magnesia, 1 ch. spoonful of chalk. 1 st. a spoonful of potassium sulfate. By the end of July in the water for irrigation I add "Humate + 7" with iodine. 1 st. spoon of superphosphate. During the summer several times I sprayed with "Ovary".
Tomatoes ripen on the bushes.
But it's important not to overdo it, or the seeds can begin to germinate. To determine maturity, I apply the tried and tested method. With my thumb I press on the skin of the fetus (2). If there is a clear trace from the finger, the seeds are ready for "evacuation". Plants grown from such seeds are not sick the next year.
See also: Choose seeds for planting - seed energy
I select the seeds with a spoon together with a part of the tomato pulp (3) and put it in a glass, put it in a warm place for 5-6 days. This mass should be sour in a glass (4). Then I wash the seeds well and immediately etch with potassium permanganate according to the usual scheme (5). After drying (6), I pour seeds into the tissue bags.
Harvesting seeds for future use - Seed storage
"Over time, I learned how to store seeds properly"
I want to share my own experience of storing seeds in autumn and winter.
It so happened that my husband and I got a fairly large piece of land. About a quarter of the territory is occupied by a fruit garden and a flower garden, and the rest of the area we use for the cultivation of all sorts of vegetable crops and cereals.
Of course, it is quite expensive to purchase planting material for such a large plot in the store, so I try to keep as much of my seeds from year to year as possible for planting in spring beds.
I want to admit that at first I did not succeed! Sometimes, you collect the seeds, wrap them in paper and put them in a box somewhere on the closet. I know how the seeds of many plants look, I remember where that is wrapped, and in spring I take out the box - and I can not determine where the seeds are!
In addition, some seeds turned out to be either dried up or suppressed, especially if they were stored in large quantities. But perfection comes with experience, so in time I learned how to store seeds properly!
The first thing to do is always to sign the packaging with seeds, even if you are sure that you will not mistake anything.
But as regards the packaging for seeds, I never use polyethylene bags for storage, since in such packing the seeds are usually spiked.
But in the package of natural materials, the seeds feel great! For example, for storage wheat, oats and peas I use sacks sewn with my own hand from the fabric of a two-thread.
Each pouch has hinges along the edge, where a pull cord is inserted. Grain-filled bags I hang on special brackets in the basement, equipped for storing seeds and house preparations. But small seeds of flowers - for example, sweet-smelling tobacco - it is convenient to keep in capsules from under candies. But in most cases I use ordinary paper bags to store the seeds of ornamental plants.
Such a "trifle" I have packaged in boxes that are placed in the same basement on special shelves.
Some seeds I close - but not tight! - in glass jars with self-closing lids or in glass tubes with a "cork" made of cotton wool, so as not to be spiked.
And the most important thing! In the room where the seeds are stored, always be cool and dry. With the first problems there, since the cellar is not heated. But I try to lower the humidity. To do this I use special moisture absorbers with absorbent pills. Usually two or three of these tablets are enough for the entire winter period.
© Author: I.Kozachenko
Work with seeds is not an easy task. This is a whole science, before experimenting, you need to get enough knowledge. They are the key to success.
My mother lived all her life in the village and always worked in the garden, and the garden is rather big, 50 acres, however, most of it was occupied by sweet cherry, cherry, plum and nut trees - this is a common thing in the south of Ukraine. We children tried to help, remember what and how to do. Then they grew up. Fate threw me to Siberia-mother. Here I had to learn everything anew. At first, I was curious that such simple plants as tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, etc. need to grow through seedlings in order to get the crop on time ...
I remember that from year to year my mother received all the seeds herself, so I decided to try. In the spring, when they planted potatoes, I took out the most beautiful, already sprouted carrots from the cellar and planted to get my seeds. Then everything was according to plan: when the inflorescences appeared, I left three umbrellas on each planted carrot (you can’t do it anymore - the seeds will be small), I removed everything else, just breaking even the tops off. The seeds ripened are excellent, large, each exceeded the size purchased ten times! Sowing such seeds is a pleasure.
The next year I repeated my experience, but did not take into account the fact that my mother passed the seeds from generation to generation, but I bought from breeders. And now in the third year, as they say, that has grown, it has grown ... By all indications, it seemed that the harvest would be excellent, as in previous years - the tops were strong, and the tops of carrots in some places looked so plump, strong. And since I sowed it so as not to thin out, until I needed a carrot, I did not touch it. But when she pulled out the root crop, she immediately realized: everything, was left without carrots. In my hands was a bunch of lush greenery with a short, thick root crop and a lush root system. Looks like what has been crossed with has grown. carrot.
I grow carrot seeds and now, only do it every few years. They are stored well, but on the landing I take the carrots from the purchased seeds.
I also want to advise the summer residents not to waste time cultivating their seeds of black radish. No, you will get the seeds, only it will not be black, but juicy, not very bitter, and the color will not be black, but lilac, pink, white. It is stored well.
With corn, too, nothing happened. She was very delicious once she was born, so she decided to leave it on the seeds, but only worked in vain: she grew up, as my granddaughter says, toothless.
But peas are my pride since I bought it ten years ago. I have it big, tall, sweet. I take seeds from year to year, already all neighbors are provided.
© Author: F. Bublik Novosibirsk
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- How to inoculate cucumbers, watermelon, melon on a pumpkin gourd
- Climate change and its impact on the timing of planting and care of plants
- How to properly mulch the soil. Mulching summer cottages.
- Timing of seed stratification – when will they hatch?
- How to protect coniferous from frost - shelter options
- Reproduction by spores (fern, etc.)
- How to grow the best seedlings at home - the advice of a candidate with \ x \ sciences
- How to propagate plants with green cuttings
- Solar house - equipment and device. Solar panels
- How to increase the size of garlic and onion bulbs - simple and effective tricks
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they write little about the collection of seeds, so I decided to share my experience. In addition, many complain that the seeds have risen badly or there were no shoots at all. So why not use your own seeds?
I take last year's root crops of carrots and beets and plant them in the spring so that the earth slightly covers the top of the root. That's all - I'm waiting for the seeds. I set a strong high stick near the planted root crop, then I attach stems with seeds to it, otherwise they will break. When the seeds ripen, I collect them and store them in a linen bag.
To collect tomato seeds I choose the largest fruits.
I give them a good ripen - I tear it off and lay it on the windowsill, then I cut and clean the seeds from all the seed chambers along with the juice. I leave it in a warm place for three days, after which I thoroughly rinse and dry it. I do the same with cucumbers. I do not collect seeds of hybrids. Once in my youth I collected seeds from hybrid varieties of cucumbers, and it turned out to be complete nonsense - humpbacked, crooked freaks.
For cabbage seeds, leave a root with a stump without leaves, and in spring, plant it. In Krasnodar Krai, we can not remove cabbage from the bed, do not dig it out, but simply cover it in three layers with a film (pre-put small arches). Winter without problems, and in the spring there will be shoots with seeds, but not to attack any evil spirits, I tie gauze in two layers, as it grows higher.
When eggplants fully ripen, grind them, let stand, sour. When everything is up, wash it and dry it. And the seeds of pumpkins, watermelons and melons I just collect, wash and dry.
I can not send the photo, I do not have a camera. Health, luck and success in country life and high yields!
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Properly store the seeds
The key to successful storage of flower seeds is dry air and constant temperature (not higher than + 17 degrees - otherwise the seeds may dry up). For storage, it is better to use wax paper packages. Usually, the seeds of flower crops retain the germination 2-3 year, and nasturtium, calendula, sweet pea - up to 4-x years.
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How to properly prepare the flower seeds for planting next year? Is it possible to collect seeds from all the flowers and when to sow?
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To obtain seeds, choose the most healthy, powerful, beautiful plants and mark them during flowering, attaching to them, for example, ribbons. When the seeds are close to maturation, the stems of the seed plants are cut and suspended in a dry place above the sheets of paper. The poured seeds are cleaned of debris, the remains of the seed capsules and dried for three to four weeks. If the fruits crack, and the seeds do not pour out, they are collected by hand. To get the seeds of heat-loving plants, it is desirable to grow them in seedlings.
Seeds of annual plants sow in the spring (for seedlings-from February, in open ground-in April-May), biennial-in June-July, perennial-in May or in September. Seeds of some perennial flowers quickly lose their germination, so they must be sown immediately after harvesting (primula, hellebore, delphinium). Seeds of other perennials for germination need some time to be in a moist state at low positive temperatures, and some need to freeze, so they are best sowed under the winter (aquilegia, gentian, bathing).
Seeds multiply annual and biennial flowers, but most of the perennial plants are easier to multiply in other ways: bulbous-daughter-nimulkovichkami, gladiolus-children. Some ornamental plants are propagated by dividing rhizomes, by green cuttings. This is faster and easier, since plants grown from seeds will bloom only after a few years (peony, for example, in five to six years).
It does not make sense to collect seeds from plants that are heterotic hybrids (F1), as they are often not very similar (and if the seeds still climb, they will produce heterogeneous offspring). Some terry flowers do not form seeds at all (for example, lemon). Receiving the seeds of varietal colors, do not forget that they can perepylyatsya. Problems will not be with self-pollinating plants (astra, sweet pea), but most flowers are cross-pollinated.
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How to harvest strawberry seeds
Strawberries have very small seeds, and harvesting them is not an easy process. But what to do? My strawberries give very few mustaches, so I decided to renew the planting with seedlings grown from house seeds.
The first seed harvesting experience was unsuccessful. Instead of studying the process, I began to act on a hunch. I chose some of the largest berries, put them on a rag, a rag on a saucer, put a saucer on a windowsill. After 3 days, I found my berries on a feather bed of fluffy white mold. I had to throw it all away.
Before I repeat the experiment, I decided to ask the more experienced summer residents how to do it right. It turns out that you need to choose the most beautiful ripe berries, cut off the top layer with seeds, grind them on paper and leave to dry. After that, rub paper with your hands to separate the seeds, and pour them into a glass jar with a lid. I did everything as recommended to me, and as a result I got my own strawberry seeds. I hope that I will succeed in preserving them and growing quality seedlings next year.
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I bought a large juicy sweet peppers for a salad in the store. When I cleaned, I noticed that the seeds in them are good, ripe. I decided to dry them and try to plant them next year. Do you think I can grow and get a crop of the same large and delicious peppers that I bought in the store?
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On the food shelves there is a large selection of fruits and vegetables, and many summer residents dream of growing something like that. Unfortunately, most often vegetables sold from seeds marked F1, i.e. hybrids, are on sale. Such plants are resistant to diseases and pests, give good yields, they are more beneficial for industrial cultivation. And to get the same pepper is possible only on condition of its varietal affiliation, lucky or not - a matter of chance. However, do not be upset. Now there is such a variety of seeds on sale that you can easily choose a variety with the characteristics you like and get peppers in your own cottage that will be no less beautiful and tasty than those you bought in the store.
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Seed collection can begin in the first half of summer:
at this time, the seeds of spring-flowering biennials and perennials (forget-me-nots, daisies, pansies, primroses and doronicums) ripen. Cut daisies, pansies and forget-me-nots whole when the fruits turn black, remove primrose seeds as the bolls are browned, and doronicum - as the baskets bloom.
Seeds after collection and drying must be placed in paper bags (sign the grade and collection date) and store in a well-ventilated room.
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Its seeds are more reliable
Because of the unlikely store seeds, do you run the risk of losing the crop? Collect them yourself!
Tomatoes
The main thing is to choose fruits larger, typical for variety of species and color, healthy. The exception is hybrids, it is not worth taking seeds from them. Seeds I take from the fruit in a bowl of water and leave for fermentation for two or three days, after which mucus is easily separated. Then they are washed and dried.
Peppers
On seeds I select the largest lower fruits in full ripeness. I leave it on the window sill for ripening and after three or four days I take out the seeds. To avoid a sorting, the peppers of different varieties are grown separately, especially sweet and bitter.
Parsley
With leaf parsley, I leave the plants with the most corrugated leaves on the seeds. The best seeds are on the central umbrellas: they are larger and more productive than on the side.
Radish
The largest root crops (sown in the spring) are digging, cutting off the leaves (leaving 3-5 cm petiole). Half shorten the root. I dip it into a clay chatterbox and plant root on a separate bed. Three weeks after the transplant, the plant gives a powerful stem - the testis. When it grows to 70-80 cm, it's best to tie it up so it does not fall to the ground. Seeds are removed when the pods are straw-yellow.
Svetlana SHUMILOVA, city of Volgodonsk
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Preparing the seeds of tomatoes
To save in the spring on the purchase of tomato seeds, you can prepare them yourself. To do this, select the strongest varietal tomatoes of the correct form without damage. Hybrids do not work, because in the second generation, the plants lose their original positive characteristics. If necessary, leave the fruit for ripening.
Mature fruit cut in half and with a spoon or wooden spatula, take out the seeds. Put them in a jar or plastic container and close the lid. Leave at room temperature (20-22 °) to start fermentation.
After 2-3 days, drain the juice. rinse the seeds, refill with water and leave for a while. Too long to hold so the seeds cannot be - they can germinate. Drain the water along with the seeds that have surfaced - they are unsuitable.
Put the remaining seeds on gauze, folded in several layers. When water runs off, move them to a clean sheet of paper and dry. Prepare the seed for storage until spring.