11 Review (s)

  1. Tatyana Viktorovna

    I am a beginner grower. I would like the window sills of the house to be soon filled with pots with indoor plants. But they cost a lot today. Tell us how you can propagate them at home?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      Most often, indoor plants are propagated using vegetative cuttings, because this is a fairly easy way in which the plant takes root quickly.

      Stalks
      Using apical cuttings, you can have more ampelous flowers and balsamines. Such an escape with 3-4 full leaves is taken from the upper, not lignified part of the stem. Make an oblique cut under the knot, retreating 1 cm. It is here that new roots will sprout. And to make this happen faster, the section should be treated with a growth stimulator. The prepared cuttings are placed in a moist and loose substrate and covered with a film.

      With stem cuttings, you can grow succulents, ficus and geranium. Such a stalk without flowers and buds is cut from the mother plant below the node. It should not have bottom sheets, if any, they should be removed. Root a sprout in the garden ground with the addition of sand. After 3-4 weeks after rooting, the seedling is resettled in a pot and placed on the windowsill.
      Such a stalk can also be rooted in a container of water.
      Leaves
      Cutting with leaves is good for senpolia, bush begonias, gloxinia. Choose a healthy and strong leaf that has not been attacked by diseases, and cut so that a long stalk remains. It is lowered into loose soil and waiting until a daughter plant appears from the soil. Then they are separated and precipitated.
      And with streptocarpus and sanseveria, a third of the leaf with veins is buried in a moist substrate.
      Offspring
      There is also propagation by offspring, which is used for bulbous, bromeliad plants and cacti.

      The offspring is a subsidiary independent plant formed by the mother. When it is sufficiently developed, it is cut off or carefully separated. It is on it that own root processes should form. Each individually planted in a substrate of a suitable type and composition.
      And bulbous species are propagated with the help of small bulbs, which, when they grow up a bit, are planted in pots. Such plants will bloom in 1-2 years.

      Reply
  2. Tatyana ZAKHAROVA

    Zamiokulkas from leaflet
    Adult plants zmiokulkasa look qualitative and stylish, so the stores in the flower is quite high. In fact, it can easily be propagated at home.

    Zamiokulkas can be propagated by tubers, neatly dividing and planting in pots. But this is best done during transplants. And I like to reproduce it with leaves more. Rather, not a whole leaf, he at zamiokulkasa departs from a tuber, as a branch, and leaf blades (cuttings). Prepare them for reproduction is better in the spring. On my own experience I was convinced that planted in November took root twice as long as May.

    Cuts cut off with petioles, I just plant them in pots to houseplants with similar growing conditions (light soil, rare watering), for example, to the cleavage. But you can plant them and in separate cups in a mixture of peat and sand or perlite (1: 1),

    Leaves before planting a little dried, I make a hole with a wooden rod and deepen them into the ground on 1 / 3. slightly at an angle. The soil before planting is only slightly moistened from the spray gun. I water the leaves only when the soil is completely dry. Instead

    This zmіokulkasam exactly a year of watering can simply spray them. They are standing in a warm bright place. Each leaf cut first increases the bulb. but new leaves grow from it.

    Reply
  3. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    I want to share my modest experience of growing zamiokulkasa. The plant appeared by chance. The colleague on work transplanted the bush and has presented to me a tiny tuber with two small leaves. But since I did not know anything about the care of this flower, he almost died.
    Now I know that for the successful cultivation of zamiokulkasa it is necessary to provide him with three important conditions.
    The first is light, loose soil. I use cactus soil for planting.
    The second is very poor watering, even in the summer not more than once every 2-3 weeks. You need to water the plant to the full, but then the excess water from the pan is then necessary
    merge. Once a month I do zamiokulkasu shower to wash away the dust. In the autumn-winter period I pour with warm water, and only after it has completely dried up by an earthen cloud.
    And the third is dim lighting. The best option is a northwest window. At first, Zamioculcas stood at home on the windowsill. Then, when the leaves began to turn yellow, I decided that it was hot for him and carried her out onto the loggia. But it did not help. Now I know that if a plant is illuminated by direct sunlight for more than 6 hours a day, then in spring and summer the leaves will burn, and the rest of the time it will just turn yellow. Now my zamiokulkas lives about three meters from the south window (I just do not have others), where it receives a minimal amount of light. And in no way suffers from this. On the contrary, it feels great.
    And I realized that Zamioculcas is a slowly growing plant. And it is better not to adjust its growth with fertilizers. From overfeeding, the roots begin to hurt at first, then the leaves turn yellow. And, as a result, the plant dies.
    At the moment I have such a handsome man. Each new sheet grows much more than the previous one. Recently transplanted zamiokulkas in a new pot: the old one was made of thin plastic and the overgrown tubers were torn.
    Alexandra KOVALEVA, Orenburg

    Reply
  4. Olga Surinovich

    Green cuttings
    In the second half of June, green action is propagated by action, chubushnik, rose, hydrangea, forging, veygel, lilac, spirea, chrysanthemum and dahlias. Cuttings are cut in length 7-10 cm with 2-3 leaves (the upper ones are shortened by one-third, the bottom sheet is completely removed), 12 hours are kept in Heteroauxin solution, and before planting the bottom of the cut is lowered into Kornevin powder to a depth of 1 cm. Cuttings are planted at an inclination in greenhouse in boxes 7-9 in height to a depth of no more than 2 cm. Leaves of cuttings (they should not touch each other) are often sprayed. Through 3-4 weeks young roots will develop. Old leaves fall off, there will be young. From this time, spraying can be shortened and start tempering - periodically ventilate the hotbed. After 2 weeks after rooting, the film shelter is removed. Further care - moderate watering, weeding and loosening.

    Reply
  5. Tatiana Komova, Serpukhov:

    Usually pelargonium (popularly called geranium) is grown at home. And I ventured to plant her in the flower garden. Almost all summer, geranium pleased me with luxurious flowering. I just don’t know what to do next. Does it need to be dug up and can it be stored until spring?

    Reply
    • Tatyana

      Of course, it is easiest to preserve pelargonium by digging and transplanting into a pot. But in the apartment for the plant there is not always a place. In this case, you can try the following method. In September, dig up the pelargonium, shake off the soil slightly, then make a baglet from the newspaper, wrap the plant in it, put it in a cardboard or wooden box with openings for air access and put it in a cool place (basement or glazed loggia). In spring, free the paper from the plant, remove the damaged leaves, slightly trim the roots, then gently lay in a deep bowl and fill with water at room temperature (you can add any growth stimulant, for example epin - 10 drops per 10 liters of water). After a day, the plant can be planted in a loose substrate, consisting of steamed sawdust and humus (in a ratio of 1: 1). Soon, pelargonium will begin to grow rapidly. It is planted in open ground when the threat of late spring frosts passes.

      Reply
  6. Taisia ​​NOVAKOVSKAYA, city of Kashira

    Yellow flowers in my garden
    At one time I grew an annual one and two year old, but most of all I liked the long-term
    Missouri. Plant it, and for several years you can admire the large bright yellow flowers.
    I was lucky, in the autumn a neighbor in the countryside thinned out the plants in a flower garden and gave me a small evening rubbish. Over time, it has grown so much that I planted some of the plants on the Alpine hill, while others located along the garden paths. Golden flowers do not close even at night!
    Now the Missorian enotera grows not only on sunny places, but also 8 penumbra, where it also perfectly develops,
    gt; The soil on my site is light, but when planting I use drainage, as the plant does not like excessive moisture.
    When in July-August part of the blossoming flowers fade, I delete them. Once in 3 weeks I feed plants with liquid fertilizers for flowers or simply scatter on 1 st. l. complex fertilizer at 1 sq. m. m. After watering on wet soil, the granules gradually dissolve.
    The Missorian enotera multiplies not only by growth, but also by dividing the bush and seeds. They are sown at the end of May right into the ground, and the division of the bush is produced either in September or October, or also in May.

    Reply
  7. Valentina MOLCHANOVA, town of Kostroma

    Zinnias are my inspiration
    Now zinnias are already growing in a constant place in the flower garden. And to get seedlings, I sow it in early spring. I mix the purchased land with the garden and pour it into a box. I sow seeds densely, since usually not all sprout, weak - delete. I abundantly water the earth and put the box on the window. As the seedlings grow in rows, I sprinkle the earth. With the onset of heat, I begin to temper the seedlings - I carry it on the veranda.
    In the flower garden I scatter ash from the birch branches, dig up the earth, and as soon as the threat of recurrent frosts passes, I plant the zinnia on the flower bed. I make loose beds, add compost. When the seedling gets a little stronger, I spray it and the soil next to it with fertilizer for flowering plants. Over the summer, I sprayed and
    I pour this solution 2-3 times. I loosen up, water often, feed with ashes. I use only birch ashes, sometimes I add rotted compost. As a result, this kind of beauty grows!
    In addition to zinnias, phlox and marigolds grow in my flower garden (on the same bed with zinnias). Delphiniums are planted along the fence. Peonies grow in the middle of the flower garden, and between them - a dicenter and an astilbe. The primroses planted along the house look beautiful. There are also hydrangeas: pink and white.
    I always try to share the seedlings of flowers, so as many gardeners as possible to attract to floriculture. I want the streets of our cities and villages to become one big blooming garden!

    Reply
  8. M.Nikolaeva

    Now on sale you can find such an abundance of flower seeds that the eyes run wide. You want to buy that bag of seeds, and this one ... But it often turns out that you didn’t dream of such beauty.
    About pelargonium (geranium) with complete certainty it can be said that this is a universal flower. It's good on the windowsill, on the balcony, in the hanging street baskets, and in the villa bed. A magnificent plant with dark green leaves and a variety of colors of large inflorescences that amaze with luxurious and long flowering. Pelargonium does not have many competitors for the duration of flowering. At me geranium blossoms practically all the year round: in the winter - on a window, and from early spring and to frosts - in a garden on a flower bed and in pendant кашпо.
    There was a pelargonium in our house for a long time, now I even find it difficult to remember when. Then this plant interested me in earnest. And several times I bought seeds in bags, updating my collection. But the crux of the matter lies precisely in the fact that now I am updating it every year with a strong pruning,
    I propagate by cuttings. In March or April, I cut off all the home geraniums (not very shortly). Bushes in pots very quickly gain shape and after a fortnight again bloom. And the fact that cut (the tips of shoots about 20 cm long), you can put in a jar of water and wait for the roots to appear, and then plant in peat pots.
    Sometimes I immediately plant cuttings in pots, but then I always put plastic bags on top. When the cuttings take root and the young plants grow, the tips of the shoots are plucked.
    In any case, when spring frosts pass, I already have a beautiful and already flowering planting material. With the onset of heat, I plant all the pelargonium that is in the house: both young plants and adults.
    Verified by personal experience: geranium does not like sunshine. She likes bright places, but with diffused light. Still Pelargonium loves moderate moisture, loosening, feeding. I assure you, your work will be rewarded with luxurious, plentiful and long flowering.
    And by autumn each young bush will have young shoots. They can be cut into cuttings and planted in pots. And after a short time your house will again be decorated with elegant globular terry inflorescences.

    Reply
  9. a guest

    Seeds of sage Muscat usually sow under the winter. On a site with fertile soil, after every 20-25, we cut rows of 2-4 cm deep and seed the seeds at the rate of 1-1,2 g per 1 sq.m. In spring, when shoots appear, thin out, leaving 15-20 cm between plants - sage does not tolerate thickening and shading. In droughty periods do not forget about watering. The leaves are cut as needed - according to 1-2 from the plant. After each large cut, we feed bushes with complex mineral fertilizer (40-60 g per 10 L of water). For harvesting in the fork, cut at the beginning of flowering and dry under a canopy or in a ventilated arbor. We season them with salads, fish, meat, omelets, add it with canning. And what a fragrant sage tea turns out! Not only does sage improve the taste of dishes, it also adds health.

    Reply

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