Propagation of plants with cuttings and seeds (part 3)
Contents ✓
- ✓ VARIETY OF VEGETABLES
- ✓ Reproduction of rhubarb by fission of rhizome
- ✓ Seeds of pods and beans
- ✓ Breeding of Yearlifters and Juveniles
- ✓ We propagate biennials
- ✓ REVENUE REVENUE
- ✓ We reproduce miniature, ground cover and park roses Green / lignified cuttings
- ✓ We propagate roses with seeds in the end of autumn
- ✓ Inoculation (budding) in July: Hybrid tea roses
- ✓ BREEDING OF FRUIT TREES AND COUPLE IN THE GARDEN
- ✓ Fruit trees: copulking in spring
- ✓ Gooseberries reproduction by green cuttings in summer
- ✓ Raspberry reproduction by root shoots in autumn or before the appearance of young shoots in spring (left)
- ✓ Blackberry propagation by layering in late August - early September (right)
- ✓ Propagation of garden strawberry mustache in July - August
- ✓ Breeding of cropland plants
- ✓ Agapanthus reproduction by dividing rhizomes in spring
- ✓ Fuchsia reproduction
- ✓ Reproduction of Pellargonium by green cuttings from spring to autumn
- ✓ BREED BREED TRAINING
- ✓ Chives - reproduction by dividing the bush in the spring
- ✓ Rosemary reproduction by green cuttings in summer
- ✓ Basil and its propagation by seeds in spring - early summer
How to propagate plants with cuttings and seeds, other ways of reproduction (continued)
One of the popular trends in landscape design today is the natural style.
It is good for those who appreciate the harmony of pristine beauty, because such gardens are the very embodiment of naturalness.
And the so-called “tramp” plants will fit here just perfectly!
Once settled on the site, they will sometimes appear in the most unexpected places, delighting and surprising with a variety of shapes and colors, as well as the distances to which they can spread. These “wandering plants” are also good for their unpretentiousness: in general, “tramps” do not require care, except for those cases when they germinate in undesirable places, but then they can be easily torn out, since they have a shallow and compact root system.
Conventionally, all “vagrants” can be divided into annual, biennial and perennial species. The first pleases with bright colors in the summer, but completely dies by the fall. Biennials bloom the next year after sowing. But the lifespan of perennials is not limited to even 5 seasons.
A popular plant that propagates by self-sowing is primarily digitalis (it is good in almost all flower gardens). This is followed by evening primrose, dioica slumber, stock-rose, mullein, medicinal verbena, Karvinsky melkolepestnik and an elegant catchment. Magnificent picturesque paintings in the garden - all this is their merit.
With “decorations” from these plants, paths or narrow paths lined with natural stone or clinker will look great. Stitch paths can also be made from wood saw cuts or bombarded with wood bark. The final touch to the look of the natural garden will be made by ponds or streams, dry masonry walls and, of course, the Moorish lawn.
Reproduction of hibiscus
1. Although hibiscus is Syrian and multiplies by self-seeding, but in the shadow of an adult bush, its offspring have too few chances for full development (here they receive little light).
Therefore, those who want to propagate this plant, experienced gardeners are advised to grow seedlings in a pot. 2.First thing carefully, dig up the seed you like with the roots. 3.In the substrate, make a small indentation, into which carefully place the young plant. Take care not to damage the roots. 5 Sprinkle the roots with earth, tightly pound it. Put the pot in a place protected from direct sunlight. Regularly water.
Do not let the earth dry up!
VARIETY OF VEGETABLES
We propagate seeds of fruit vegetable plants
Vegetable plants are propagated by seeds and vegetatively (tubers, bulbs, cuttings, dividing the rhizome or using vaccines). Most often, the first method is used. In this case, the main role is played by the quality of the planting material (therefore if you buy seeds, and do not collect them yourself, it is advisable to contact specialized shops).
Important: Choose plant seeds of those varieties that are recommended for your region, as they are adapted to local climatic conditions, so it is better to bear fruit. Along with the varieties on sale, there are hybrid seeds (they can be identified by the addition of F1 in the title), which yield a particularly good harvest, but only in the first generation, so it is not worth collecting their seeds.
Immediately before sowing, it is advisable to soak the seeds in water so that their shell swells and softens. In addition, when soaking, substances that inhibit their growth, inhibitors, leave the seed coat.
All heat-loving species that differ in a long vegetation period, for example tomatoes and peppers, are usually grown through seedlings. The rest can be sown directly into the open ground.
Tip: to increase the viability of seedlings after transplanting to the garden, pour them with water with the addition of potassium salt (20-30 g per 10 L of water).
At the same time, there are vegetable plants that are best propagated vegetatively. Cultures such as potatoes, horseradish, perennial bows, in this case give an earlier and higher yield than with the seed method.
So, in horseradish grown from seeds (which also rarely gives them), rhizomes grow very slowly; and when propagated by root cuttings, this process is significantly accelerated. In some cultures, for example rhubarb, when propagating by seed, varietal qualities are also poorly preserved. Therefore, it is often propagated by dividing rhizomes. Tuberous and bulbous vegetable plants are most easily propagated by tubers and bulbs. Vaccination is used to increase the resistance of breeding plant species to environmental conditions, diseases and pests (for example, vaccination of melon and watermelon on a pumpkin).
Tomatoes from own seed
If you want to collect tomato seeds, cut the fruit, remove the seeds, put them in a glass and pour a little water (if fermentation starts, do not panic: thanks to this process, the substances preventing their germination are removed from the seeds (the same is true for the seeds of cucumbers). After 1 -2 days, when the seeds sink to the bottom and are no longer slimy, wash them well in clean water, then put the washed seeds on a kitchen towel and allow them to dry out.Storage the seeds in a dark glass container. other vegetable plants, they can be easily washed several times.
Tomatoes are usually grown through seedlings. To do this, in March, sow them in seedling cassettes or large balcony boxes and, as soon as real leaves appear, pee seedlings into separate pots (preferably peat). Seedlings can be planted in open ground only when the threat of late frost passes, that is, in late May - early June. If possible, choose a lighter, warmer place for fruit and vegetable plants.
Also multiply:
• physalis peruvian • eggplant • cucumber • physalis philadelphia • pumpkin • zucchini
On a note:
Eggplant in large tubs grow even better than in the garden. Grow these plants, like tomatoes, through seedlings, in a bright place at 22-24 ° C. Their rounded seeds retain germination for about 4 years.
Pumpkin is sown in late April. Three weeks later the seedlings can already be transplanted into the open ground. Own seed can be collected only from mature fruits.
Reproduction of rhubarb by fission of rhizome
Every 5-10 years, this herbaceous perennial must be rejuvenated by dividing the rhizomes in the middle of spring, when the underground buds swelled (in southern regions it is possible in the early autumn). This procedure also gives an excellent opportunity to get several from one plant at once.
1.Lopatoy chop off all the roots around the plant, having deviated from it by about 15-20,
2. Carefully remove the rhubarb with the root from the ground so that the earthenware remains as intact as possible. 3 Split the rhizome with a shovel or a large knife. At the same time, each Xenix 1 thick growth buds must be on each division.
4. Then, remove all the leaves and plant the seedlings so deep that the top bud is only slightly or slightly protruding above the surface of the bud.
5.Please note: the petioles of the leaves should later rise above the ground level to the height of the thumb, otherwise the duck can simply rot. 6 Finally, well, pour in the landing site and mark it with some object, such as a pole or a stone.
Also propagated: • artichoke
Seeds of pods and beans
In the bush and winding beans to collect their own seed material does not work. To do this, first find among the ripening beans a couple containing especially a lot of seeds and leave them on the plant until fully ripened, that is, until the leaves of the beans dry completely and resemble parchment.
Tip: to check whether the seeds lie throughout the winter, push the peel with your fingernail - if it does not push, you can safely collect the seed for the next year. If, nevertheless, it is pressed through, it is necessary to dry the beans in a warm place. They should be stored in a glass, tightly closed container. Since April, beans can be sown for seedlings in pots or in the third decade of May - directly in the garden. Following the example of beans, you can also collect the seeds of peas, lentils and other leguminous and leguminous vegetable plants.
An exception to the rule is pepper: fruits cannot be left on the plant waiting until they are completely dry, the pods must be picked as soon as they are fully ripe. Then, in sweet pepper, the pods must be cut, get the seeds and dry. As for chili peppers, the pods can be strung by the stalks on a thread or wire and hung in a warm room or under a roof canopy against a solar wall until they become completely stiff and dry.
With chili peppers, you can also collect seeds from fresh pods: cut them along into two halves, remove the seeds with a knife and allow them to dry on a kitchen towel (at least 7 days).
Part 1: Plant reproduction calendar
Also propagated: • cereal peas • smooth-grain peas • lentils • chickpeas • soybeans
On a note:
Collect chilli seeds from fresh pods only in plants of thin-skinned varieties. Grow peppers through seedlings, which are necessarily dive.
Breeding of Yearlifters and Juveniles
Because of the short life expectancy, summer and biennials propagate exclusively with seeds. And here it is good that these plants tend to bloom very richly, after which they form a huge amount of seeds, so you definitely will not have a deficit in the seed material.
Most of the fliers in terms of flowering can be divided into three conditional groups. Plants from the first group blossom already in 8-9 weeks after sowing. it lobularia, cornflower, delphinium summer, dimorphosis, clove chinese, clarkey, calendula, summer lupine, summer gypsophila, kosmeja, Iberis, annual flax, escholcia.
In May, the seeds of these flowers can be sown directly into the open ground.
The second group includes plants blooming through 10-12 weeks.
These include: gerodia, matricaria, reseda, silenas, sweet peas, cornflower knapweed, scabiosa, gelipterum, acroclinium, salpiglossis, rodanthe, snapdragon, callisteifus (annual astra), tagetes deviated etc. They, like the seeds of flowers from the first group, are sown in the ground in early summer.
Summer crops blooming through 13-14 weeks after sowing form the third group.
Its representatives, and these are verbena, left-handed and asters of late varieties, erect tagetes, Drummond phlox, zinnia, lobelia, petunia, sage, are best grown through seedlings, sowing seeds in March - April in a container on the windowsill (at a temperature not lower than 15 ° С )
Important: biennials are sown exclusively in the summer.
You can “plant” seeds in the ground even in winter (such “hardened” plants are more resistant to diseases and bloom much earlier). In late October - early November, with the onset of stable frosts, seeds are sown in grooves and covered with light nutrient soil.
However, the consumption of seeds at the sub-winter crop is much greater.
We propagate biennials
In the case of some summer-leaved plants, for example rose-rose rose (Alcea rosea), You will need to be patient and not expect to see the flowers in the first year after sowing. 1 Collect the seeds of a faded stem rose at the end of summer (preferably in dry weather). The next year they are sown in June - August. 2 In the same year, the biennial appears rosette of leaves. 3 In the second year, stockrose reaches its final size, blooms and gives a seed crop for the next generation. Biennials also include plants such as Turkish carnation and Cheriranthus cheiri.
REVENUE REVENUE
How many-sided the world of roses is, the methods of propagation of these flowers are just as diverse. However, none of them suits all groups at once. Take at least the seed method: it would seem that it is possible to propagate all the roses that form the fruits and, accordingly, the seeds ...
However, this method gives a good result only when breeding park roses, or dog roses. Unfortunately, this method is inapplicable to cultural varietal roses.
Their “descendants” grown from seeds, as a rule, do not inherit the best characteristics of “parents”. In this case, you need to use one of the methods of vegetative propagation - vaccination, cuttings or layering. The last way you can propagate almost all roses, but most often it is applicable to ground cover and climbing.
The technique itself is simple and does not differ from the reproduction of rhododendron layers.
The next year, the "child" can already be separated from the mother plant.
Cutting gives good results, for example, in miniature, groundcover and park roses. Green cuttings with 2-3 buds (the lower cut should be done directly under the kidney) is cut, as a rule, from the middle part of the shoot. Important: so that the cuttings do not rot, use sand or perlite as a substrate. Then follow the standard scheme: put in a pot - and under the "cap". When shoots from the axils of the leaves appear, begin to ventilate the greenhouse.
Propagation by lignified cuttings is more suitable for climbing roses with long shoots, as well as shrubby and groundcover beauties. Ideally, they should be rooted in the same place where they will continue to grow. Tip: regularly shorten new growths - this stimulates the branching of the shoot.
Whatever method of propagation you choose, you should know that young plants should never be fed, as they become “lazy” due to the extra diet and do not form enough roots. Fertilizing is possible only from the second year of life of the "newcomers".
Most often, roses are propagated by grafting, that is, a kidney or stalk of a cultivated variety plant is planted on a strong rose hips. This is shown primarily tea-hybrid roses, which have a weak root system. For rootstocks, mostly choose rose hips (Rosa laxa), for rose roses often use dog rose (Rosa canina) with long shoots. As a rule, at a certain height, several kidneys are planted at a certain height, which give shoots, and later a thick crown is formed. Important: remove all wild roses from all the grafted roses.
We reproduce miniature, ground cover and park roses Green / lignified cuttings
1.In the budding period, cut off the matured but not yet lignified shoots with three leaves on the cuttings. Remove the top sheet. Drop the shard into the sandy ground, pour in and cover with a packet. 2. After 4 weeks, take the pots with rooted cuttings in the garden. In the first winter, roses should be placed in a non-freezing room, in spring it can be planted in an open ground.
On lignified cuttings in autumn cut shoots with a thickness of a pencil and a length of 15-20 cm, remove all leaves from them. Wrap it in sackcloth and till spring keep it in wet sand at 1-2 C. In spring, in April, drop them under the film. When the kidneys are moving to the ground, gradually open the film.
In lignified cuttings above the soil surface, 2 upper buds should be left.
We propagate roses with seeds in the end of autumn
Put the seeds from the mature fruit in a sachet with a damp compost and bring it to the room for a week, then put it in the refrigerator for 6 weeks. After that, spread the seeds in a container with a sandy substrate and lightly sprinkle with earth. For winter put in a cool place, with the advent of sprouts, transfer to light and warm. When the first real leaves appear, arrange the seedlings in separate pots.
See also: Propagation of plants with cuttings and seeds (part 2)
Inoculation (budding) in July: Hybrid tea roses
Rosehip (future stock) should be planted in advance - in the spring. It will take root before the summer and give the first shoots. As an alternative, rooting can be used rooted lignified shanks of wild rose.
1-3 On a hot summer day, cut a bud from a mature, flowering shoot near a rose of the desired variety. Before that, remove leaves and thorns on the shoot. Flip it from top to bottom. Place a clean, sharp knife under the kidney and cut it off. 4 At the place of the cut you will see a bast (lignified tissue under the bark), it must be removed. 5. Clean the root neck of the dog rose and make a transverse incision. 6 Then make another longitudinal incision from top to bottom in the form of the letter “T”. 7 With the tip of the knife, pry off the bark at the cut site, bend it slightly and 8 place a kidney cut from the varietal plant under the bark into a T-shaped incision.
9. Part of the cortex over the kidney, protruding a few millimeters from the t-shaped incision, gently cut off.
10. To protect the place of vaccination from loss of moisture and contamination, wrap it with eyepiece film.
11. Such a "dressing" is necessary so that the kidney under the bark fits snugly to the stock and later they can grow together.
12. During the summer, the dog rose continues to grow. For the winter bite the rose on the ground at 5-7 cm above the site of vaccination. In spring, unload the plant below the site of inoculation, cut the aboveground part of the dog rose above the grafted kidney and remove the eyepiece film. Now it's time to appear escape from the kidney. Tip: Young shoots as they grow are constantly shortened, then a new rose will be better to be bitten.
The kidney is placed under the bark of the rootstock from the dog rose and wrapped with a ribbon, so that they become fused.
The kidney is taken from a varietal plant, which is intended to propagate.
If you often plant plants, you should buy a special knife for budding.
See also: Reproduction of Root-Producing Roses
BREEDING OF FRUIT TREES AND COUPLE IN THE GARDEN
Have you ever thought about taking and propagating fruit trees and berry bushes yourself? Too complicated, many think and ... are wrong. In fact, to propagate these plants is quite simple, you just need to gain a little experience. Imagine: having mastered this skill, you can, for example, “reproduce” a piece of the garden of your grandparents on your site; re-graft an old tree or bush, or save a plant of a good, but rare variety.
All this can be done only by grafting or grafting - fruit trees and berry bushes with seeds, as a rule, are not propagated. Indeed, as a result, anything grows, but not a varietal mother plant. Therefore, seeds are the lot of breeders who are always in search of something new.
The fruit trees propagate mainly by grafting. If the graft and the rootstock are of the same diameter, then copulation is used (they are joined together in an oblique way with slices). If the diameters do not coincide (most often the stock is much thicker than the scion), then the varietal stem is planted behind the bark (the stock is not cut off, but only the bark is cut on it and the graft is cut into the incision) or the groove (the stock is cut, the stump is cut and inserted, Like a wedge, sharpened on both sides of the stalk).
The easiest way to get vaccinated is copulation. If you want to plant several varieties on one stock, then only vaccinations for bark and vrasplich are suitable for you, however they are quite complicated.
Vaccines must be prepared in advance - in the fall or early spring, no later than mid-March. After that, tie them into bundles and put them in a dark, cool place (with a temperature of no higher than 3 ° C, otherwise the kidneys will grow). The grafts are inoculated before sap flow, approximately at the beginning of April.
Peach, apricot and almond - a special case. They can be successfully inoculated at the height of summer. Since cuttings dry very quickly at this time of year, budding is more suitable for these trees.
With berry bushes, everything is much simpler - they can be propagated by the methods indicated on this spread. Which one you choose depends on the type of plant and whether you need only a few copies or a lot.
Fruit trees: copulking in spring
The stem is grafted onto the desired rootstock (it determines whether the tree is high, medium or short). A new variety can also be planted on a tree already having a crown. For copulation you will need seedlings with a central conductor that is thick with a pencil (for a rootstock) and cuttings of a high-quality plant of the same thickness (i.e., pryvoj).
1. On a rootstock at the top and a scion below, use a sharp knife to cut 2-3 cm long. 4. Both cuts should be done slightly back up from the kidney. It is better to practice well in advance how to cut. Combine the stock and scion, folding them in the butt, but do not touch the slices with your fingers! 3-4. Wrap the grafting site with oculistic film. 5. Young shoots appeared - it means that the tissues at the vaccination site have grown together and the film can be removed.
Also propagated: • pear • grapes • quince • cherries • cherries • plums • nuts • standard stem berry shrubs
Gooseberries reproduction by green cuttings in summer
1. Already existing gooseberries can be propagated by green cuttings. 2. For this, use a sharp knife to cut off mature, but not yet lignified shoots. They should be about 10 cm long. 3. On the lower third of the shoots, remove all the leaves and plant the cuttings in the substrate. Until the cuttings are anchored, they must be covered with a transparent bag. Make sure that the earth is constantly wet!
Also propagated: • currant • elderberry • boyzenovoy berry • yoshtu • lingonberry • garden blueberry • aronia • cornel, dogwood • logan berry
Raspberry reproduction by root shoots in autumn or before the appearance of young shoots in spring (left)
This berry shrub grows due to root growth. But it, as a rule, does not appear at all where it is needed, for example, far from the trellis, and it has to be regularly removed. But the root shoot is ideal for propagating raspberries. Such young offspring appear throughout the summer. Just cut off the "baby" from the mother plant with a shovel, dig with the root and plant it in the place you need. If you need a lot of young plants, and there is only one raspberry bush, then bend the whole shoot to the ground, having previously removed the leaves on it, and tack it, leaving only the top (follow the example of propagation of blackberries with layering). Cut off the young shoots with a shovel and transplant.
Also propagated: • blackberry • cranberries • ordinary dereza • lingonberry • sea buckthorn
Blackberry propagation by layering in late August - early September (right)
Annual flexible shoots of varietal plants can be bent to the ground and root. For this, on the shoot, remove all the leaves, except the whorl at the top. Lock the escape place with a stud and fill it with earth. Prior to rooting, make sure that the soil in this place is always wet. As a rule, the bark takes root during one growing season. Then you can safely separate it from the mother plant and plant it in the proper place.
Also propagated: • boyzenovoy berry • garden blueberry • kiwi • hazel • currants • blackberries • grapes • logan berries • ordinary dereza
See also: How to cut the roses correctly
Propagation of garden strawberry mustache in July - August
This plant gives a mustache on which leaf rosettes are formed. As a rule, they are removed so that the "children" do not take away the strength of the "parent". However, garden strawberries are short-lived plants. Already from the fourth year of life, it blooms (and, accordingly, bears fruit) worse and worse. Therefore, every 3-4 years old plants must be replaced with young ones, and the mustache will come in handy. 1-2 First, during the flowering and fruiting period, select among the garden strawberries the most healthy, abundant fruiting plants and designate
their chopsticks or something else. 3 Fix the most powerful and healthy sockets with a hairpin in pots with a substrate for seedlings dug next to the mother plants. Important: the ground in the containers should not dry out until the sockets form roots. When the “children” take root, separate them from the mother plant. Since garden strawberries propagated vegetatively bear fruit worse and worse from generation to generation, experts advise from time to time to buy fresh planting material.
Breeding of cropland plants
Many cadre handsome men breed very easily, the main thing is to know what and how. For instance, ferns, callas, agapanthus - These are plants that are actively growing in breadth. It is this factor that is decisive - such flowers are propagated mainly by dividing the rhizome. The rest of the herbaceous perennials, as a rule, are “duplicated” by green cuttings, and shrubs are semi-and lignified cuttings.
Cuttings root well both in water and in the substrate - choose which is easier for you. Important: if the “segments” in the water begin to rot, just add activated carbon to it. As for the substrate, the ground for seedlings is best suited for rooting - it is not too nutritious, so all the forces in the plant will go to the formation of roots. And this is exactly what we need!
And do not forget to cover the pot with cuttings package and twice a day to ventilate. In such hothouse conditions do not need unless succulents, as well as fuchsia and pelargonium. There is one more nuance: shoots, in which milky juice protrudes at the place of the cut, must be placed in a glass of water and kept in it until the juice stops standing out. Then you need to sprinkle the place of the cut with crushed activated carbon - and again into the water.
If there are not enough shoots on a flower and cuttings simply can not be cut or their plant does not form at all, as, for example, saintpolia or sansevieria, propagation by leafy cuttings is possible. To do this, cut a leaf near the ground, with a stalk. The length of the latter depends on where you are going to root the leaf: if in a glass with water, the petiole should be 3-4 cm, for a pot with a substrate - 1 cm. Important: the leaf should not come into contact with the ground. In the same way, you can "clone" gloxinia, small-leaved pepermia and some kinds of begonia. A leaf without a petiole is propagated by succulents (cleansing, echeveria, zamiokulkas and etc.). Such leaves should be left to dry for a few days, then press into the wet sand.
Agapanthus reproduction by dividing rhizomes in spring
This plant is divided in spring, ideally before the emergence of young shoots. 1 Separate the root ball with a shovel or knife. 2 The easiest way is to split the lump into two equal parts. 3 If necessary, each of them can be re-cut in half so that on each delenka there are roots and a growth bud. 4 Delenki planted in separate tubs. 5 Tip: all plants like agapanthus prefer close containers otherwise kadoschnye handsome men will permanently stay in growth.
Also propagated • ferns • royal strelitzia • asparagus • calla • sansevieria
Reference by topic: Cuttings of plants - how to
Fuchsia reproduction
This plant is easily propagated by semi-lignified cuttings with a heel (a piece of old bark and wood). To do this, semi-lignified shoots with 3-4 pairs of leaves must be broken off at an angle, slightly departing from the leaf node. In this case, the heel must be left, except that you can shorten it a little, but not cut it off. Then shorten the large leaves by half and remove all the flowers and buds from the shoot. Separate the bottom pair of leaves so as not to damage the sleeping buds in the leaf sinuses - of them, 2-3 weeks after you plant the stalk in a moist substrate, roots form. To provide the humidity required for rooting, cover the handle with a jar or plastic bag. Important: during dormancy, from mid-October to the end of January, it is better not to touch the plant.
Also propagated: • lantana • hibiscus
Coleus reproduction by green cuttings in water from spring to late summer
To multiply the wheel, pinch the tip of the shoot, remove the lower leaves and put the so-called apical stem in a glass of water (also can be rooted in a pot under the film). When the first roots appear (approximately in 8-12 days), plant the cola into the pot with the substrate. This plant can also be easily grown from seeds. It is important: the more pricked the tips of shoots, the busier the bush will be.
Also propagated • oleander • potato tree
Reproduction of Pellargonium by green cuttings from spring to autumn
1. Pelargonium is rightfully considered to be the most popular balcony plant - not least because it is very easy to propagate. The ideal time for this procedure is early spring. Find a strong shoot on the mother plant and cut it with a sharp knife under the last pair of leaves. 2. The cut should be smooth, because pathogens penetrate the plant more easily through the nicks. 3. Remove from the shoot the lower leaves, as well as all the buds and side shoots. 4. Cut side shoots can also be used on cuttings. 5 Plant the cuttings in pots with a moist substrate, it is advisable to take one that is intended for seedlings. 6 Compact the soil around the cuttings and carefully pour them. 7 Put the pots in a warm and bright place - after 3-4 weeks, the cuttings should be rooted. In early summer, young plants can already be put on the balcony or in the garden, where they will soon bloom.
Also propagated: • oleander • jasmine
BREED BREED TRAINING
By and large, all spicy herbs can be propagated by seeds, and collected with their own hands. Find a suitable place in the garden and just sow them (you can also in a pot). Important: feed plants in a timely manner, and also give them enough space in their “childhood” age so that the herbs have space for proper growth and development.
Such a method is especially effective when a plant package with seeds of a parent plant has been specified not by a variety, but only by a plant species, for example cumin or coriander. If the seed is taken from a hybrid variety, the “children” will be very different from their “parents”. This applies primarily to those breeding novelties in the name of which there is a subscript “F1”. If you want to feel like a breeder, you can try to collect the seeds of hybrids and grow new plants from them - the result is likely to be unexpected.
There is a nuance in the reproduction of perennial spicy herbs by seeds - in this case, the harvest will have to wait a long time. That is why it is still better to apply such a method to these plants as reproduction by dividing the bush. This does not take much time and also contributes to the rejuvenation of already adult specimens. This applies to herbs such as tarragon, chive-onion, lemon balm and lemon balm. These spicy herbs should be divided, rejuvenating bushes, every 3-4 years.
For cuttings in the first place are suitable semi-shrubs, that is, plants in which shoots in their lower part are lignified. Cuttings can be propagated traditionally by Mediterranean plants, such as sage, rosemary, thyme and basil.
Some gardeners root cuttings first in a glass of water and then planted in the ground. Although that in the water, that in the substrate the result is almost the same. Why do not you see for yourself?
Chives - reproduction by dividing the bush in the spring
There is simply no easier way to reproduce: First, dig up the chives and use your hands to divide it into several parts the size of your palm (if you can’t manually, use a knife). Often, you can simply cut off parts of the plant along with the roots of the planting scapula. Delenki immediately put on the bed. This technique allows you to kill two birds with one stone at once - get new plants and rejuvenate the old, because after 3-4 years, chives become less lush and form predominantly thin feathers. Therefore, dividing the bush provides an excellent opportunity to breathe new strength into such a plant.
Also propagated • valerian • tarragon • sorrel sorrel • mint • lovage • lemon balm melissa
Rosemary reproduction by green cuttings in summer
For propagation by cuttings, shoots about 10 cm long are needed. 1. With scissors with clean sharpened blades, cut off the tops of the shoots. 2. Fill the pots with seedling substrate. 3 From the cuttings, remove the lower leaves. 4. Directly under the lower kidney, make an oblique cut. 5-6 Plant the cuttings in pots and carefully tamp the substrate. 7. Carefully water the plantings so that the earth is completely saturated with moisture. 8 Cover containers with cuttings with plastic bags to protect the cuttings from moisture loss and drying.
Also propagated: • Italian caraway seeds • Lavender • Oregano • Sage • Thyme • Hyssop • Lemon verbena • Fragrant basil
Basil and its propagation by seeds in spring - early summer
1. Fill the pot with a substrate for seedlings, shake out the basil seeds from the sachet and spread evenly over the surface of the earth. Do not sow too much! Basil refers to plants whose seeds germinate in the light, so do not cover them with a substrate (or only slightly). Then, with any flat object, push the seeds a little into the substrate. Pour well (preferably from an atomizer to not accidentally wash the seeds) and cover the pot with glass. 2. Once the seedlings are strong, arrange them on separate pots with a fertile substrate. 3. The basilica should be allocated a warm, windless place, for example on a balcony or terrace.
Also propagated: • anise • cucumber grass • watercress • dill • watercress • fennel • chervil • coriander • caraway seeds • marjoram • oregano • parsley • hemorrhage • purslane • arugula • savory garden • sorrel sour • lemon-melissa
Part 1 of this article here а Part 2 here
In preparing the article, the materials of the wonderful magazine for gardeners “My Beautiful Garden“ were used
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Calendar of works in the garden, vegetable garden and summer cottage in January and February
- January - gardening, what to do first
- Lunar calendar and what can be done at the dacha in July
- Terms of sowing seeds and planting seedlings - memo
- Garden work if winter is late - what can be done
- Works in the garden, flower garden and in the garden in April - from A to Z
- Calendar of works in April at the dacha, in the garden and the vegetable garden
- October - list of mandatory works for the garden
- Garden-garden in July: weeding, feeding, watering
- Care for berry bushes (August)
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I am a beginner grower. I would like the window sills of the house to be soon filled with pots with indoor plants. But they cost a lot today. Tell us how you can propagate them at home?
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Most often, indoor plants are propagated using vegetative cuttings, because this is a fairly easy way in which the plant takes root quickly.
Stalks
Using apical cuttings, you can have more ampelous flowers and balsamines. Such an escape with 3-4 full leaves is taken from the upper, not lignified part of the stem. Make an oblique cut under the knot, retreating 1 cm. It is here that new roots will sprout. And to make this happen faster, the section should be treated with a growth stimulator. The prepared cuttings are placed in a moist and loose substrate and covered with a film.
With stem cuttings, you can grow succulents, ficus and geranium. Such a stalk without flowers and buds is cut from the mother plant below the node. It should not have bottom sheets, if any, they should be removed. Root a sprout in the garden ground with the addition of sand. After 3-4 weeks after rooting, the seedling is resettled in a pot and placed on the windowsill.
Such a stalk can also be rooted in a container of water.
Leaves
Cutting with leaves is good for senpolia, bush begonias, gloxinia. Choose a healthy and strong leaf that has not been attacked by diseases, and cut so that a long stalk remains. It is lowered into loose soil and waiting until a daughter plant appears from the soil. Then they are separated and precipitated.
And with streptocarpus and sanseveria, a third of the leaf with veins is buried in a moist substrate.
Offspring
There is also propagation by offspring, which is used for bulbous, bromeliad plants and cacti.
The offspring is a subsidiary independent plant formed by the mother. When it is sufficiently developed, it is cut off or carefully separated. It is on it that own root processes should form. Each individually planted in a substrate of a suitable type and composition.
And bulbous species are propagated with the help of small bulbs, which, when they grow up a bit, are planted in pots. Such plants will bloom in 1-2 years.
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Zamiokulkas from leaflet
Adult plants zmiokulkasa look qualitative and stylish, so the stores in the flower is quite high. In fact, it can easily be propagated at home.
Zamiokulkas can be propagated by tubers, neatly dividing and planting in pots. But this is best done during transplants. And I like to reproduce it with leaves more. Rather, not a whole leaf, he at zamiokulkasa departs from a tuber, as a branch, and leaf blades (cuttings). Prepare them for reproduction is better in the spring. On my own experience I was convinced that planted in November took root twice as long as May.
Cuts cut off with petioles, I just plant them in pots to houseplants with similar growing conditions (light soil, rare watering), for example, to the cleavage. But you can plant them and in separate cups in a mixture of peat and sand or perlite (1: 1),
Leaves before planting a little dried, I make a hole with a wooden rod and deepen them into the ground on 1 / 3. slightly at an angle. The soil before planting is only slightly moistened from the spray gun. I water the leaves only when the soil is completely dry. Instead
This zmіokulkasam exactly a year of watering can simply spray them. They are standing in a warm bright place. Each leaf cut first increases the bulb. but new leaves grow from it.
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I want to share my modest experience of growing zamiokulkasa. The plant appeared by chance. The colleague on work transplanted the bush and has presented to me a tiny tuber with two small leaves. But since I did not know anything about the care of this flower, he almost died.
Now I know that for the successful cultivation of zamiokulkasa it is necessary to provide him with three important conditions.
The first is light, loose soil. I use cactus soil for planting.
The second is very poor watering, even in the summer not more than once every 2-3 weeks. You need to water the plant to the full, but then the excess water from the pan is then necessary
merge. Once a month I do zamiokulkasu shower to wash away the dust. In the autumn-winter period I pour with warm water, and only after it has completely dried up by an earthen cloud.
And the third is dim lighting. The best option is a northwest window. At first, Zamioculcas stood at home on the windowsill. Then, when the leaves began to turn yellow, I decided that it was hot for him and carried her out onto the loggia. But it did not help. Now I know that if a plant is illuminated by direct sunlight for more than 6 hours a day, then in spring and summer the leaves will burn, and the rest of the time it will just turn yellow. Now my zamiokulkas lives about three meters from the south window (I just do not have others), where it receives a minimal amount of light. And in no way suffers from this. On the contrary, it feels great.
And I realized that Zamioculcas is a slowly growing plant. And it is better not to adjust its growth with fertilizers. From overfeeding, the roots begin to hurt at first, then the leaves turn yellow. And, as a result, the plant dies.
At the moment I have such a handsome man. Each new sheet grows much more than the previous one. Recently transplanted zamiokulkas in a new pot: the old one was made of thin plastic and the overgrown tubers were torn.
Alexandra KOVALEVA, Orenburg
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Green cuttings
In the second half of June, green action is propagated by action, chubushnik, rose, hydrangea, forging, veygel, lilac, spirea, chrysanthemum and dahlias. Cuttings are cut in length 7-10 cm with 2-3 leaves (the upper ones are shortened by one-third, the bottom sheet is completely removed), 12 hours are kept in Heteroauxin solution, and before planting the bottom of the cut is lowered into Kornevin powder to a depth of 1 cm. Cuttings are planted at an inclination in greenhouse in boxes 7-9 in height to a depth of no more than 2 cm. Leaves of cuttings (they should not touch each other) are often sprayed. Through 3-4 weeks young roots will develop. Old leaves fall off, there will be young. From this time, spraying can be shortened and start tempering - periodically ventilate the hotbed. After 2 weeks after rooting, the film shelter is removed. Further care - moderate watering, weeding and loosening.
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Usually pelargonium (popularly called geranium) is grown at home. And I ventured to plant her in the flower garden. Almost all summer, geranium pleased me with luxurious flowering. I just don’t know what to do next. Does it need to be dug up and can it be stored until spring?
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Of course, it is easiest to preserve pelargonium by digging and transplanting into a pot. But in the apartment for the plant there is not always a place. In this case, you can try the following method. In September, dig up the pelargonium, shake off the soil slightly, then make a baglet from the newspaper, wrap the plant in it, put it in a cardboard or wooden box with openings for air access and put it in a cool place (basement or glazed loggia). In spring, free the paper from the plant, remove the damaged leaves, slightly trim the roots, then gently lay in a deep bowl and fill with water at room temperature (you can add any growth stimulant, for example epin - 10 drops per 10 liters of water). After a day, the plant can be planted in a loose substrate, consisting of steamed sawdust and humus (in a ratio of 1: 1). Soon, pelargonium will begin to grow rapidly. It is planted in open ground when the threat of late spring frosts passes.
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Yellow flowers in my garden
At one time I grew an annual one and two year old, but most of all I liked the long-term
Missouri. Plant it, and for several years you can admire the large bright yellow flowers.
I was lucky, in the autumn a neighbor in the countryside thinned out the plants in a flower garden and gave me a small evening rubbish. Over time, it has grown so much that I planted some of the plants on the Alpine hill, while others located along the garden paths. Golden flowers do not close even at night!
Now the Missorian enotera grows not only on sunny places, but also 8 penumbra, where it also perfectly develops,
gt; The soil on my site is light, but when planting I use drainage, as the plant does not like excessive moisture.
When in July-August part of the blossoming flowers fade, I delete them. Once in 3 weeks I feed plants with liquid fertilizers for flowers or simply scatter on 1 st. l. complex fertilizer at 1 sq. m. m. After watering on wet soil, the granules gradually dissolve.
The Missorian enotera multiplies not only by growth, but also by dividing the bush and seeds. They are sown at the end of May right into the ground, and the division of the bush is produced either in September or October, or also in May.
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Zinnias are my inspiration
Now zinnias are already growing in a constant place in the flower garden. And to get seedlings, I sow it in early spring. I mix the purchased land with the garden and pour it into a box. I sow seeds densely, since usually not all sprout, weak - delete. I abundantly water the earth and put the box on the window. As the seedlings grow in rows, I sprinkle the earth. With the onset of heat, I begin to temper the seedlings - I carry it on the veranda.
In the flower garden I scatter ash from the birch branches, dig up the earth, and as soon as the threat of recurrent frosts passes, I plant the zinnia on the flower bed. I make loose beds, add compost. When the seedling gets a little stronger, I spray it and the soil next to it with fertilizer for flowering plants. Over the summer, I sprayed and
I pour this solution 2-3 times. I loosen up, water often, feed with ashes. I use only birch ashes, sometimes I add rotted compost. As a result, this kind of beauty grows!
In addition to zinnias, phlox and marigolds grow in my flower garden (on the same bed with zinnias). Delphiniums are planted along the fence. Peonies grow in the middle of the flower garden, and between them - a dicenter and an astilbe. The primroses planted along the house look beautiful. There are also hydrangeas: pink and white.
I always try to share the seedlings of flowers, so as many gardeners as possible to attract to floriculture. I want the streets of our cities and villages to become one big blooming garden!
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Now on sale you can find such an abundance of flower seeds that the eyes run wide. You want to buy that bag of seeds, and this one ... But it often turns out that you didn’t dream of such beauty.
About pelargonium (geranium) with complete certainty it can be said that this is a universal flower. It's good on the windowsill, on the balcony, in the hanging street baskets, and in the villa bed. A magnificent plant with dark green leaves and a variety of colors of large inflorescences that amaze with luxurious and long flowering. Pelargonium does not have many competitors for the duration of flowering. At me geranium blossoms practically all the year round: in the winter - on a window, and from early spring and to frosts - in a garden on a flower bed and in pendant кашпо.
There was a pelargonium in our house for a long time, now I even find it difficult to remember when. Then this plant interested me in earnest. And several times I bought seeds in bags, updating my collection. But the crux of the matter lies precisely in the fact that now I am updating it every year with a strong pruning,
I propagate by cuttings. In March or April, I cut off all the home geraniums (not very shortly). Bushes in pots very quickly gain shape and after a fortnight again bloom. And the fact that cut (the tips of shoots about 20 cm long), you can put in a jar of water and wait for the roots to appear, and then plant in peat pots.
Sometimes I immediately plant cuttings in pots, but then I always put plastic bags on top. When the cuttings take root and the young plants grow, the tips of the shoots are plucked.
In any case, when spring frosts pass, I already have a beautiful and already flowering planting material. With the onset of heat, I plant all the pelargonium that is in the house: both young plants and adults.
Verified by personal experience: geranium does not like sunshine. She likes bright places, but with diffused light. Still Pelargonium loves moderate moisture, loosening, feeding. I assure you, your work will be rewarded with luxurious, plentiful and long flowering.
And by autumn each young bush will have young shoots. They can be cut into cuttings and planted in pots. And after a short time your house will again be decorated with elegant globular terry inflorescences.
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Seeds of sage Muscat usually sow under the winter. On a site with fertile soil, after every 20-25, we cut rows of 2-4 cm deep and seed the seeds at the rate of 1-1,2 g per 1 sq.m. In spring, when shoots appear, thin out, leaving 15-20 cm between plants - sage does not tolerate thickening and shading. In droughty periods do not forget about watering. The leaves are cut as needed - according to 1-2 from the plant. After each large cut, we feed bushes with complex mineral fertilizer (40-60 g per 10 L of water). For harvesting in the fork, cut at the beginning of flowering and dry under a canopy or in a ventilated arbor. We season them with salads, fish, meat, omelets, add it with canning. And what a fragrant sage tea turns out! Not only does sage improve the taste of dishes, it also adds health.