Correct planting of the seedling in autumn

Question: Hello. I was going to break my fruit garden. I decided to start right from this autumn. Tell me how to plant seedlings correctly?

Answer:

Planting seedlings is an important stage in the life of a plant, on which survival and further growth depend.

Trees are planted in autumn or spring. But in any case the plot for seedlings is prepared in the autumn. How do most gardeners plant trees?

They dug a hole, planted a seedling, sprinkled it, watered it, absorbed water, sprinkled it again, trampled it down - it seems that they did everything right. But this is only at first glance…

The depth of the landing pit

The size of the planting pit depends on the planted crop and soil fertility. When I was replanting a 3-year-old seedling of decorative plum with a root length of 40 cm (three-lobed louisania), I dug a hole 70 cm deep and almost 1 m in diameter. “Why?” - a question arises from the beginning gardener. Let me explain: the roots of small seedlings develop in the upper soil layer.

There the land is more friable, fertile. As the plant grows, the root system grows in depth and breadth. The top layer of the soil (30-40 cm) was easily removed.

Further it was more difficult: the soil was so hard that it had to be soaked. The water in the well absorbed very slowly (this means that the soil has a very weak penetrating ability, that is, moisture will spread over the upper layer, and deep into rare cases).

And this despite the fact that my site is regularly processed. And you imagine what kind of soil in those places where grass grows for years? Therefore, it is important that the pit is of suitable size for the proposed root system.

FACT: If the top layer of the soil is highly fertile, you can fill the pits only with the soil of the top layer without applying organic and mineral fertilizers

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See also: How to choose the seedlings of the bookmark (planting) for your garden

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Soil quality for planting a seedling

A significant effect on the survival of the seedlings is also provided by the quality of the soil, which is filled in the planting pit.

At the bottom I put humus (1-2 buckets) interspersed with the earth from the upper fertile layer.

I also add mineral fertilizers - phosphorus and potassium (100 g each). I put a seedling so that the root neck is at ground level.

I fill the ground and water. The amount of water for irrigation is never standard: lyu, while it is absorbed. Then, on top of the tree, I fall asleep on the ground and tread it well.

Fruit tree planting

It’s not easy to plan your plot correctly: nothing is still going on with the garden, every year you can dig beds in a new place, and the flower garden is not so difficult that you didn’t like it - replanted it, but you have to tinker with the garden.

And this is not in the sense of caring for him, it will be all after, but in the fact that everything is planted correctly, each tree has its own place. Here, as they say, you hurry - you make people laugh, but cherry and apple trees cannot give a good crop if they are intertwined with branches and roots.

Therefore, first it is necessary to have patience, paper with a pencil and thoroughly think it over and even sketch out schematically.
It is necessary to take into account absolutely everything: how much growth the trees have achieved, and what kind of crown they are, and even plan pruning in advance, because they live together for decades together. After five or six years, the error will no longer be corrected.

It is also important that there are few places on the site, you will not take a hectare under the garden, so you want to plant everything compactly and without harm to the trees.

Here the envelope way of landing will come to the rescue, it is far from new, but only for some reason very few people use it and it is very in vain. The square is used to the maximum, the garden is not too thickened, the trees suffer less from frosts and the yield is quite high.

And his whole trick is that you need to mark out a square of 8X8 meters and plant powerful trees-centenarians - apple trees and pears - at its corners.

They are far from each other, but do not worry, the rest of the place is not lost, in the center of the square is planted a tree-sealant, for example, a plum or apricot. But that's not all, on this small plot we have to place nine fruit trees, but for now we only have 5.

Therefore, we divide each side of our square in half and exactly in the middle we plant less compactly compacted trees with a shorter life span, for example, cherries of different varieties. The distance between the trees is four meters from each other, which is quite enough for normal life of each of them.
But, of course, it is worth taking into account some details.

Choose apple varieties with less spreading crown, such as in Pepin, Melba, White filling. Such a landing will also affect the pruning: the crowns of the trees should be made not spread out to the sides, but half-high, so the light will pass unhindered through the crowns.

When the age of your garden approaches the mark 15-20 years of life, the cherries will already bear fruit poorly, and maybe they will stop altogether, so with a clear conscience they can be cut down and give space for the branches of apple and pear trees just gaining strength.
Planting the main planting trees and seals is desirable at the same time. The conditions for such planting are not too complicated, but the harvest will be several times larger than usual.

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Raisa MATVEEVA, Cand. Sc. (Biology), answers the most pressing questions related to the autumn planting of fruit trees.

How to correct a small or deep planting of trees?

Fruit plants, especially apple and pear, react sensitively to the depth of planting. A shallow landing, when the root neck is slightly above the soil surface, they suffer painfully, but it is easily correctable and does not do much harm. In this case, the roots of the newly planted tree can be sprinkled with earth from the row spacing. In addition, after planting in the tree trunk, manure, humus, and mulch are introduced. And during the autumn digging, the soil shifts somewhat towards the root neck. It is more difficult to correct excessive burial of the root neck. This happens when the landing does not take into account the subsequent subsidence of the soil in the pit. As a result, the root neck is significantly lower than the ground surface, which disrupts the relationship between the aerial part and the root system. The tree seeks to compensate for this disturbance by excessive vegetative growth and much later enters into fruiting. Correct this error better in the year of planting. To do this, after cutting the lump, pull the tree to the desired height, so that the root collar is slightly above the soil surface, under the coma bottom, nourishing soil is pummeled. At the end of the work, the tree is well watered.

Is it necessary to bleed for the winter just planted seedling?

Young trees with a smooth bark of whitewash are not only not useful, but in some respects even harmful. They then grow worse, their bones slowly thicken, the pores in the cortex are clogged, and gas exchange slows down. Especially harmful for whitewashing are lime solutions with the addition of sticky substances (difficult to wash). In practice, even cases of severe burns and dying of the cortex were noted.

But the stems and bases of the skeletal branches of adult fruiting trees must be whitewashed. Better - a solution of freshly slaked lime: 2 kg of lime, 0,5 kg of copper sulfate and 2 tbsp. milk or 3 kg of lime, dilute 1,5 kg of clay in 10 liters of water. Folds, cracks and roughnesses of the coarsened bark of adult trees serve as a winter refuge for garden pests. Autumn (in October) whitewash of boles helps to destroy them

and, in addition, it is a disinfectant that destroys mosses and lichens. And whitewashing protects the bark from sunburn and temperature changes (it acts as a kind of insulating "coat", thanks to which the tree trunk does not overheat on a winter day and does not freeze at night).

Is it possible to plant fruit seedlings in the place where there were vegetable patches?

Can. The main thing is that the ground waters in the area for planting fruit crops should be at least 1,5 m above ground level.

What should be the roots of the seedlings? What to look for when buying?

The fate of the plant depends on how well developed and viable the roots are. The length of skeletal roots in seedlings of pome and stone fruits should be at least 25 cm. Plants with very short roots either do not take root at all, or take root very poorly and lag behind in growth. Short roots after planting do not go deeper, but spread in the upper soil layer. They also form fewer growth points. In addition to length, the quality of the root system is indicated by its structure - seedlings with a rod root system and poorly developed lateral roots take root poorly. Plants that, in addition to large roots, have many thin, fouling (fibrous) roots, are much better and faster to take root. The roots of high-quality seedlings should be healthy, without signs of freezing and drying out.

Remember! It is better to buy a seedling with a poorly developed crown, but with good roots, than with a strong aboveground part and a well-formed crown, but with short cut roots.

At what depth should you plant fruit and berry crops?

It is important at first to provide a young plant with greatly shortened roots when digging out of the nursery the best conditions for survival and growth of new roots. Planting pits for proper and uniform development of roots are best done round with steep walls. The pits narrowed downwards are worse: in them the roots grow more in the middle of the pit, they twist.

Dimensions of landing pits, see the table.

Breed	Diameter of the pit Depth of the pit
Apple, pear	100-125 50-60
Cherry, plum	60-80 30-40
Currants, gooseberries	40 25-30
Raspberries	A continuous ditch of width 40 cm 30

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© Stepan Vitalievich Voronov, Vologda and I.FIRSOV, Vinnitsa.

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