Growing and cleaning of beets
Contents ✓
Beets - how to grow and when to clean
Beetroot is a biennial plant, but for gardeners it is of value in the first year of life, since at this time it gives a juicy root crop. In the second year, the plant blooms - this is important for those who want to get beet seeds on their own.
Beets are more thermophilic than carrots and parsley, but still quite cold. Its seeds begin to germinate already at a temperature of 5-6 °. But these are still extremes: it is worth remembering that if the beet will remain in such unfavorable conditions for a long time, its growth will slow down.
Therefore, the best temperature for seeding unnoticed seeds 10 °, and soaked 25 °. With this temperature regime, the seeds are planted together on 6-7 day.
Growing beets, do not forget its heat-loving roots (Mediterranean, Asia, Transcaucasia, Crimea, the Balkans).
Plant shoots do not like negative temperatures and can die if even a light frost occurs. But adult plants are already more resistant to cold and easily tolerate freezing up to -2 °.
True, if the plants will be in the cold for a long time, then they, in the end, will not form a root crop - the beets will produce a flower-bearing stem.
Therefore, in the case of early sowing, it is necessary to cover the bed with a film or to plant the beets in the greenhouse beforehand.
What beetroot is very demanding on is light and watering. Lack of light leads to lower yields. If you plant beets in a shady place, then the root crops will turn out to be small, poor in sugar and vitamins. Therefore, you need to choose well-lit places for sowing. Beetroot loves moisture - it especially needs water during the emergence of seedlings, the formation of rosettes of leaves and the growth of root crops.
WHAT DOES THE SOUTH NEED SOIL?
On cultivated rich soils, beet yield is increased by 60%. Favorite beetroot soil - loamy, sandy loam, chernozem, rich in organic matter. Beet, on the contrary, does not like acidic soils: on them, plants can start to hurt and give a meager harvest.
Mineral fertilizing is necessary for plants. At the initial stage of development, beets need nitrogen; in phosphorus, potassium, copper, manganese - during the entire vegetative period.
Potassium increases the cold resistance of plants and accelerates maturation. But if it is too much, then the rooting of root crops will worsen. With a lack of manganese, plants can be affected by black leaf spot, and a lack of copper leads to root rot.
PREPARATION FOR SOWING
A bed under the beets can not be placed in the place where the last fall grew beets, carrots and other root crops. It is best to choose a place where legumes grew before. The soil for sowing should ideally be prepared in autumn.
Pre-rotted manure at the rate of half a bucket per 1 sq. m. Then, 30 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium chloride per 1 sq. km are scattered over evenly distributed manure. m. After that, the bed is carefully dug up to the depth of the bayonet of the shovel - the manure should be sealed inside the bed. In the spring, it is enough to dig the earth and deposit it on each square. m 40 g of ammonium nitrate or 30 g of urea.
See also: Growing beets - planting and care. Varieties.
THE BEAD TO START!
That the plants were more resistant to cold and rose together, the seeds should be prepared before sowing. There are several options for preparation.
Soak. For 3-4 days before sowing the seeds must be soaked for a day in warm water. During this time the water change 2-3 times. Swell the seed or, if desired, sprout further, spreading a thin layer.
Cooling.
For the acceleration of plant growth, stratification of seeds is preliminarily carried out. For this, for 2 weeks before sowing the seeds should be immersed in water for 3-4 h. (The water should be the same as the seeds), and then wrap the seeds in a rag and put in the refrigerator or bury it in the snow (it is necessary that the temperature of 0 °). Every 3 days the seeds should be mixed, and dry them before sowing.
Pelleting.
This method is used in pre-early plantings. The shell created in the coating process protects seeds from death under adverse conditions. In addition, germinating seeds from this shell receive nutrients that can not be taken from the cold soil. Shoots are obtained friendly, and the yield when using drained seeds is higher.
For panning, the beet seeds are moistened with mullein solution and poured into a jar, in which the nutrient mixture is added in portions, and then shaken until granules 0,4-0,5 cm in size are obtained around the seeds. The composition of the nutrient mixture is 300 g of turf land , 700 g of humus, 100 g of ground mullein with the addition of superphosphate (15 g per 1 kg of the mixture). Instead of mullein, you can use 20 g of starch paste.
Sowing on paper.
A few days before sowing, the seeds must be laid out in a row on strips of toilet paper 3-4 cm wide. The distance between the seed nests is 8-10 cm. Put paste on paper. The use of sowing on paper makes it possible to lay seed strips in the soil earlier and ensures uniform seedlings, which reduces seed consumption.
Treatment with trace elements, which promotes yield growth. Seeds need to be immersed in a solution of microelements for a day, and then dry. Processing is carried out by any one element to choose from: 2 g potassium permanganate for 10 l of water or 2 g boric acid or copper sulfate for 10 l of water.
SOWING AND CARE OF THE BEAUTY
Beets must be sown, observing the distance between the rows of 25-30 cm, and between the seeds - 3-4 cm. The depth of the grooves is -3 cm. The ground needs to be well leveled, compacted and watered. The appearance of a soil crust is harmful for crops, so it is better to sprinkle the beds with mulch (sawdust, humus) 1-2 cm thick.
After the appearance of the first two true leaves, thinning can be carried out. Do not be late, otherwise it will negatively affect the harvest. Between plants leave a distance of 8-10 cm with the first thinning, 10-15 cm with the second.
It is necessary to regularly loosen the row spacing to a depth of up to 4-5 cm after each watering. If the spring is dry, water the crops regularly until the shoots take root. If the summer is arid, then at least 4-5 irrigation is required with soaking the soil to a depth of 0,5 m and more.
BEE CONCENTRATIONS
By the appearance of plants, you can determine what trace elements and substances they lack, and adjust the situation. So, if the leaves of the shoots turn out to be pale green, it is necessary to feed them with diluted 1: 10 mullein or bird droppings.
To feed plants it is necessary and with tying of root crops, having taken on Yule of water 50 g of the mixture described above. This solution is enough for processing 2 square. m. beds. The solution must be poured only into the grooves, not the plants themselves.
Reference by topic: Growing beets - rules and tips
Beetle, do not be sick!
The most common diseases of beets are fungal infections - root eater, phomosis, cercosporosis, downy mildew. Root beetle affects seedlings, and other diseases - root crops.
At root, sprouts begin to stain and dry up. With phomosis, light gray spots appear on the leaves. With false powdery mildew, leaves turn pale, twist, become brittle, and the plant dies. Cercosporosis is easy to identify by the appearance of the spotted leaves.
Do not allow the emergence of disease can be, observing the rules of agricultural technology: do not plant beets after beets and carrots, avoid landing on acidic and heavy floating soils. When planting it is better to use seeds of varieties resistant to these diseases.
CLEANING OF THE BEECH AND ITS STORAGE
Harvesting can begin when the leaves of the beets begin to wither, but always before the onset of frost in late August and the first half of September.
For cleaning it is better to choose dry cool weather. Even a little freezing of root crops can have a bad effect on keeping quality: beets will be poorly stored and rot. It is believed that the earlier the beets are removed, the better it will taste.
After excavating the tops from the root crops, it is necessary to cut it to the level of "shoulders" and send it to storage in a dry cool place. Drying before storage of root crops is not necessary: they will be stored worse. You can store them by pouring dry sand or clay.
In areas where winters are mild and warm, beets can be left for storage right in the ground and dig it out as necessary in the right amount.
D.KOREPIN, Moscow Region
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
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- Own beet seeds - cultivation, collection and selection
- Beet top dressing - folk remedies
- What to do so that the beets do not shoot?
- Planting beets is my way
- Growing and cleaning of beets
- Growing beets in the Kirov region - varieties and care
- Beet Growing: 5 Rules + 7 Tips
- Growing beets in the Orenburg region - planting and care
- My secret to planting beets - sharing experience
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If the beets do not get enough moisture, it produces flower stalks to the detriment of the development of the root crop. So if there is heat, I water the bed with beets every other day, with cloudy weather - 1 time per week. Water should not be cold, otherwise the burgundy beauty may get sick. If the beds are mulched, water less often, since mulch helps to preserve moisture.
When the beets do not have enough water, it immediately signals this - its leaves turn brown-violet. If there is heat, they will also be small. But I do not bring my beets to such a state. When there is doubt whether plants need watering, I lightly rake the soil in the garden. If the earth is dry at a depth of 3-5 cm, I water it. Norm - 10-15 liters per 1 square. m. However, if beets grow in a lowland, watering should be reduced.
If the leaves become reddish, then the beetroot lacks sodium. In this case, I add watering to the 5-liter watering can of 0,5 art. l. salt. It is enough three such waterings for a season. This and the lack of sodium make up, and make the beets sweeter.
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The beets I always succeeded in glory, but, as they say, and on the old woman there is a gap. When the leaves of young plants began to turn yellow and die, looked at them and did not believe their eyes.
Leaflets were covered with blown mines. They tried the larvae of beet flies, which they call mining. During the growing season, she manages to lay eggs 2-4 times. The most dangerous is the first clutch, in May larvae emerge from it, which are embedded in beet leaves and destroy young plants. Even if some beetroots managed to escape, the grown fruits will be small, unsweetened.
By sight the beetroot fly looks like a regular room, lays eggs 6-8 mm
white color. I start looking for them as soon as the shoots of beets appear. I do this many times. If I see, collect and destroy.
With larvae it is more difficult to fight. Spray the beet with carbophos, adding to the 10-liter bucket of water 60 g of the drug. But it's better to start with prevention in the fall. I collect plant remains, my son digs through the beds, where the wolves of the pest are hibernating. During the whole period of vegetation, I carefully weed the beds.
All this helped. Now the pest does not even show a nose on a beet plantation and does not "minify" it! And I share my experience with all the neighbors. I decided to write in the "Dacha Council" to help everyone!
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Beets this season grew unimportant - small. Even her leaves are somehow scanty, and even not green with a red stem, but red with dots. What happened to my beets? Is she missing something?
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Beets, in which red leaves are formed instead of green, grows on acidic soil. The high acidity of the soil does not allow the plant to absorb the necessary nutrition and minerals. Therefore, the root crop is small, and the leaf turns red or even burgundy. To help the plant, you need to deoxidize the soil - to add lime. Another reason for the development of beets is a lack of phosphorus and sodium. To replenish the necessary elements, apply phosphoric fertilizers to the soil. And also pour the beets with a solution of sodium chloride (1 tbsp. In a 10-liter bucket of water). Well restores mineral ash wood ash. It is sprinkled on the surface of the soil.
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To improve the heart, cut the beets into thin slices, sprinkle with lemon juice, sprinkle with sugar and brown in the oven. It turns out "dried apricots", replacing
Lotions of boiled beetroot juice or freshly ground root crops are applied to the affected areas with poorly healing ulcers and pribintovyvayut. Bandages change 3-5 once a day.
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Has got rid of an ulcer
When I had a duodenal ulcer, I was treated like this: every day for a month I squeezed 100 juice of red beet, white cabbage and fresh potatoes. Defended 2-3 hours. In half a glass of this mixture added to 1 st.l. juice of aloe and honey. Drank a medicinal medicine three times a day before meals.
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Experience of ancestors
Sowing beets was always planned for the time of flowering bird cherry. It was believed that if you sow later, the beets will be sore. Seeds before planting for a while kept together with seeds of other plants, believing that in this way they will pass on the quality of beets (it is practically not damaged by pests).
To protect the beets from beetroot (small copper-bronze insects 1,5-2,5 mm in length), spray sprouts garlic infusion. For this, 200-300 g of garlic is passed through a meat grinder, pour 2 l of hot (80 degrees) water. After letting it brew for 24 hours, squeeze out a lot of mass, add 8 l of water to the infusion and spray the shoots. After this treatment beetroot beetles fly around my garden for a mile!
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Beets for long-term storage are always cleaned in late September or early October. I dig it out in the morning. The skin of the root vegetables is very thin, so I try not to damage the heads when pruning the tops, otherwise this will affect both the timing and the storage quality. Immediately after harvesting 1-2 days, the beets lie in the canopy covered with the tops. After that, the root crops are peeled off in small batches in paper bags with holes, and the bags are folded in dried and lime-treated boxes. There is practically no waste with this storage.
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I water the beets with this solution - 50 g of rock salt for 10 l of water. Pests and diseases bypass the planting side. And root crops become much sweeter. However, remember: the excess salt in the beds, as well as on the table, is harmful.
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Beets - good and bad
The constant addition of beets to the food strengthens the immune system well. This property is explained by the high content of folic acid in the roots, as well as vitamin C and beta-carotene (in leaves).
Thanks to the large content of potassium, beets are useful to people with high blood pressure, as well as suffering from heart disease.
With the beet, our body receives many iron salts. Consequently, its roots should be more often included in the diet for iron deficiency anemia.
As one of the sources of iodine, the beet is shown for thyroid dysfunction.
Raw, cooked beets and beet juice doctors recommend people suffering from diseases of the biliary tract.
Beet juice for rhinitis and adenoids can be buried in the nose and nasopharynx even to small children.
maintains an acid-base balance in the blood of a person,
keeps memory and working capacity, binds cholesterol in the intestines, not allowing it to be absorbed into the blood,
has a laxative effect, has antipyretic and diuretic action.!
You can not use it for people with diabetes,
is not recommended for kidney disease,
It is necessary to exclude from the menu at a hyperfunction of a thyroid gland.
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Beetroot is a plant of a long day, demanding of light intensity. Grow this vegetable in open areas.
Beetroat well coexists on one bed with bush beans, onions, kohlrabi, salad cabbage.
The largest yield of root crops is obtained from those areas where the crop was sown before the appearance of real leaves on the plants (ie, in the presence of only cotyledons).
If the roots of beets strongly stick out of the ground, they should be bored.
Do not let the beet grow. In root crops with a diameter of 10 cm and more quality deteriorates.
On plants that are designed to produce root crops, leaflets do not tear during growth. For the preparation of colds and borsch use leaves from the transplanted plants.
Beet - a culture indicator for the high acidity of the soil. If the soil is acidic, you will not get a good harvest.
Sergey BARSUKOV, Cand. of sciences
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The best predecessors for beets are cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage, onions. To obtain a guaranteed crop, sowing seeds is recommended in two terms with a two week breakdown.
The soil for beets must be sufficiently loose and nutritious. Prepare it you need in advance - late autumn. Under the digging for every square meter of the beds, it is good to make a bucket of turf and peat, a bucket of humus or compost, a bucket of sand and a glass of dolomite flour (as a deoxidizer it is much better than traditional lime-lint). You can also add ash (1 item / sq. M.), Matchbox superphosphate and the same amount of potassium salt, 1 st, liters. potassium fertilizers. Avoid excess nitrogen (do not get carried away with the introduction of manure, especially - not pereprazhego) - from it in the root crops there are voids. In the spring, under a digging (plowing), bring only nitrogen fertilizers to the bed.
Seed preparation
Beetroot shoots usually appear through
8-12 days after sowing seeds. To accelerate the germination, pour seeds into a bag of rare tissue and dip into clean water for 1,5-2 days. In the morning and in the evening, change the water. After that, keep them in a damp cloth until the appearance of single sprouts at a temperature of + 18-20 degrees. When they start to germinate, dry them to a loose state and sow.
Timing and sowing scheme
If you want to get root crops more quickly, in early spring sow seeds on the seedlings between rows of cucumbers in the greenhouse. And when the cucumber stretch the whip, cut the beets into the open ground. When pickling seedlings, a long thin "tail" -the root cut off - this helps to form the roots correctly. In the open ground in conditions of the middle band, the seeds are sown when the soil temperature at a depth of 5-6 cm is within + 6-8 degrees, and ends normally 10-15 May. It is better to grow beets on low beds
width 1-1,2 m and height 12-15 see. After sowing the soil is rolled up, which will accelerate the emergence of seedlings. To not form a soil crust, rassochki with crops, sprinkle a small layer of humus or peat.
Care
In 6 days after the emergence of seedlings, necessarily dilute the beet, leaving in each nest one of the best plants. The rest sit on the edges of beds with other vegetables or on a separate bed.
The best watering for beets is sprinkling. With this method, its leaves are washed, refreshed, which contributes to their better development. Norms of watering depend on the weather and the phase of development of plants. In the first month of growth, beets need watering 1 once a week for 10-12l / sq. M. And when the root crops are growing and the weather is hot, the dose of irrigation is increased to 20-25 l / sq.m. For 3 weeks before harvesting, watering should be stopped.
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I heard that beets like well-fertilized soil, is it?
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Yes, indeed, beets like fertile soil. And when choosing a top dressing it is better to use one that has magnesium in its composition. Another important element for this culture is boron. If it is not enough, then the beet growth slows first, and then stops altogether, the core leaves die. Both one and the other element is present in the ashes.
Also, beets need sufficient nitrogen and potassium. While there is growth, leaves develop actively, it uses nitrogen in a larger quantity, and potassium at the end of vegetation. Phosphorus uses this culture evenly, throughout the season.
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For four years now, I began to grow beets. This is not to say that I am harvesting good crops, but I also can’t sign the failure, too, so halfway through. Although I follow all the necessary agricultural techniques. I sin that not all varieties are suitable for my sandy soil. Therefore, I am in an active search for suitable varieties. In the store here I saw Egyptian flat planting material. On the package it is written that this beet is unpretentious to the soil. None of the gardeners tried to grow such a variety? And by the way, maybe, after all, I'm doing something wrong, since my beet harvests are modest?
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And beet is superfluous
Beets can be different - flat, round, cylindrical, yellow, red, sugar ...
This vegetable is necessarily present in all gardens. It’s easy to grow, but I am most surprised by the need for constant thinning. Usually we sow a lot, just in case - suddenly it does not come up. But even if the seeds are rarely arranged, then this does not save the procedure of pulling out excess. I wonder why so?
Beet seeds are enclosed in solid dry fruits, from which they can not be extracted. Fruits are connected by 3-5 pcs. in strong glomeruli. In this form they are sown. From each glomus several plants grow. That's why there is thickening. In crowdedness, the plants mutually oppress one another. If they are left so, the harvest will turn out to be shallow, the fruits will be crooked, non-commodity.
Beets require three thinning. The first is when the plant has two leaves. The distance between seedlings leave 2-3 centimeters. Remove the smallest and weakest seedlings. Second
once engaged in pulling out when the fifth sheet appears. Then the distance is up to 6 centimeters. The third thinning is carried out until mid-August, leaving between the beet spacing to 8 centimeters.
In the second and third time, larger, edible, as well as ugly and diseased plants are pulled out.
It is preferable to water the beets by sprinkling, so that the rosettes of leaves are freshened and washed. To drink, thin out, grow loose - and an excellent harvest is guaranteed.
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A special look at the beets
When a few years ago I read about the healing properties of a seemingly ordinary beet, I began to relate to it in a completely different way. It turns out that the root crop and the leaves of this plant contain a huge amount of vitamins. Therefore, I constantly add beetroot leaves to summer vegetable salads. In addition, fiber contained in the vegetable improves the microflora of the human intestines, it lowers blood cholesterol, which serves as a prophylaxis of atherosclerosis. Knowing this, I often rub the beets on a fine grater, pass several cloves of garlic into it through the press, season with sour cream or olive oil - I really love this beetroot salad.
I even treated the beet planting and care differently. Previously, just planted at random, grows so much, and now I'm setting a beet planting in the fall. The area of 4 square. m, 0,8 kg of dolomite flour, 150 g double superphosphate, 150 g ka-limagnesium and 0,4 glass of sodium nitrate. I dig the ground with all these fertilizers and sow the seeds with white mustard. After it has risen, I dig again the soil for about 7 cm, to seal the mustard for the winter for re-planting and feeding to the ground. In the spring, the dressing turns out to be excellent, with all the necessary beet substances and microelements.
Galina GVOZDINETS, Bryansk
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Beets are fed into grooves with a depth of 4 cm, which I do in 7 cm from plants. On the one hand I pour the granules of superphosphate, on the other - urea, mixed in equal parts with potassium chloride (10 g at 1 pg.m). After the soil is well spilled, and the next day I loosen.
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Unfortunately, they rarely write about forage crops. Good for city dwellers - I went to the store and bought all kinds of seeds. But where and how to get the seeds of fodder crops in the outback is a real concern and problem. I myself live in a city, but my mother and numerous relatives are in the outback. I know that they don’t trust urban F1 seeds, so they plant the seed themselves, and share the surplus with their neighbors. But in the city I was not lucky to find, at their request, the seeds of fodder beets, cabbage, turnips, rutabaga.
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I had a case: I soaked beets and forgot about it. And when she caught herself, she had already sprouted through toilet paper and the leaflets were outlined. Fortunately, she was in a plastic bag and did not dry. Then I made a small inclined trench along the bed and leaned against it every sprout - so even the roots were not damaged. The main thing is that when planting the roots do not bend, otherwise the ugly root crops will grow.
I plant only beetroot beets. I store it in the basement, put it on top of the potatoes - it takes excess moisture from the potatoes. And the potato lies in my bunker, sprinkled with layers of lime-fluff, - so it does not deteriorate. But the autumn was rainy, they dug potatoes in the mud. For the first time in 20 years, I had to wash and dry tubers in the country.
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Do you know that root vegetables of all kinds should be cleaned as late as possible? If such plants are not mature enough, they are highly prone to damage during harvesting. Surprisingly, these heavyweights are big sissies and are characterized by low resistance to diseases, as a result of which they are poorly stored. But warned - it means armed, so we boldly go to autumn beds for old acquaintances and lesser known "characters".
The favorite of our table - red beetroot - can boast of a large amount of red-violet pigment, which is credited with the ability to lower the level of cholesterol. But because of its low
digestibility by the body dieticians are advised to give preference to yellow, white and pink beet species.
Now the leading cooks are very popular juicy turnips, better known as forage turnips. The matter is that recently the plant's salad varieties were bred by breeders. Turneps are added to salads, stewed and baked. To eliminate the bitterness, before consumption, the root is covered with boiling water.
The taste of kohlrabi is similar to that of its "sister" cabbage white, but kohlrabi is softer and juicy. Its stem can be very heavy - up to 1 kg. The kohlrabi varieties' Dyna and 'Blaril' are distinguished by a tender pulp and a delicate aroma.
Not too common in our area fennel Italian - the traditional nail program in the menu of deli Western Europe. Greens and fruits of fennel are added to vegetable, fish dishes, salads, sauces, confectionery (replaces such condiments as anise, baden). Thickening in the aerial part, formed by the bases of petiolate leaves, gardeners are called kochanchiki. The taste of them is less harsh and luscious than other parts of the plant. The main advantage of freshly picked kochanchi is considered to be a high content of vitamin C - twice as much as in oranges! In the European kitchen bleached kochanchiki are especially appreciated. Be sure to try it! □