Beet for the winter (podzimnius sowing)
Podzimniy sowing beets
Who does not risk - he does not eat the early harvest of table beet from his own garden. And if the spring is late and the terms of the spring sowing are removed, the podzimnius sowing in general will prove to be very useful.
Cycle: Biennial vegetable plant
FORMS: Dining room, fodder, sugar
KORNEPLODS: In shape - from round to cylindrical; by color - red all shades (table beet), white (sugar beet) or yellow (fodder); from 400 g to 10 kg
Pregoods: Good: potatoes, cucumbers, cabbage and other crops, under which organic fertilizers were applied
Nutrition: Beets are returned to their former place through 3-4 years
Beets grow well and yield high yields on soils rich in humus, loose, loamy and sandy with a deep arable layer and the occurrence of groundwater is not closer than on 60 cm to the surface.
The beds for the sub-winter planting are made on a high place, protected from cold winds (with a slight south or south-west incline), which in the spring quickly dries up and warms up, but with a stable snow cover.
Preparation of a bed for beets for winter
The site is prepared in advance - by the first ten days of October. It is dug into the spade bayonet, covering 4-6 kg per 1 sq. M pereprevshego compost or humus (but not fresh manure!) With the addition of 60-70 g of potassium sulfate and 40-50 g superphosphate. After the area is leveled and make ridges facing the south, cutting into them grooves depth 4 cm (after the subsidence of the soil they will be less). Prior to the onset of frosty frosts, the bed is covered with an old sponge-bond or polyethylene film, so that the grooves are not covered with snow. In addition, the soil is stored to fill the seed, which is stored indoors.
Beetroot is a cold-resistant culture. Its seeds begin to germinate even at soil temperature + 5- + 6 degrees.
FACT: Experiments to determine the optimum sowing time beets for the winter showed that the crop when planted in frozen soil at 1-2 kg with 10 sq. m is higher than when sowing in unfrozen soil. Also in the first case, the percentage of attacking plants was smaller.
TIP: An important role in podzimnem sowing beets is a variety. Suitable for all early cold-resistant non-stalking varieties: Cold-resistant 19, Bordeaux 237, Boltardi, Prygazhunya, Gaspadynia.
Do not miss with the timing of sowing!
It is important to choose the right time for sowing beets for the winter, because the seeds should swell, but do not have time to germinate in the fall. Therefore, they are sown with the onset of a cold snap and frost: in the middle zone this is the second decade of November, in the south - the end of November. Crops in October are dangerous - in a thaw the seeds can germinate and then die in frost.
Reference by topic: Beets - planting and care. Beetroot Dishes
Sowing beets for the winter
For the sub-winter planting, the largest seeds are selected. They are not soaked before sowing, but only for a short while they lower it into a weak solution of potassium permanganate, then they are washed and dried.
Sown at the rate of 1,5 g of seeds per 1 running meter on ridges or ridges according to the scheme 5-10 × 30-40 cm to a depth of 1,5-2,5 cm. After they are sprinkled with previously prepared soil, and then mulched with dry peat or humus with a layer of 1,5-2 cm. Leaves, spruce branches or branches with leaves are thrown onto the garden. In the spring, until the snow completely melts, the shelter is removed. So you can get a beet crop 10-14 days earlier than with spring sowing.
In the spring
When the snow comes down, the mulch is raked by rakes, and the beds are covered with film so that the earth warms up faster. In addition, the beets can be covered with foil or non-woven material under the arches, which will allow harvesting a week earlier.
With the emergence of sprouting soil loosened in the aisles and make nitrogen fertilizers (7-10 g urea at 1 sq.). Further care for crops is common, as in spring planting.
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GRADETHE TABLE BEETS FOR SOWING NAZIM |
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Name |
Features of beet cultivar |
Description |
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Cold-resistant 19 |
Ultra-early variety: from shoots to harvesting root crops - 68-97 days. Cold-resistant, carries back spring frosts. Resistant to flowering, high-yielding |
Roots dark red, weight 150-220 g, leveled, good presentation |
|
Bordeaux 237 |
Medium-ripening (from sowing to full harvesting - 110-123 days), a yielding grade. To blossom inclined slightly, prone to cercosporosa and peronosporosa |
Roots are round and round-flat, weight 230-500 g |
|
Pablo F1 |
Mid-term hybrid of Dutch breeding. The period from shoots to selective harvesting is 60-65 days, until technical ripeness - 100-110 days. Good shelf life |
Roots are rounded, firm peel, weight 230-300 m. Pulp is red-burgundy, sweet |
To note - the use of beets:
Table beet is rich in pectin substances, it has a lot of iodine and calcium.
It has a diuretic, laxative, hematopoietic action.
It removes radionuclides from the body, improves fat metabolism.
With hypertension, mix 1 Art. beet juice with the same amount of honey, drink on 1 st.l. 3-4 times a day before meals until the state is normal.
Improves peristalsis of the intestine. Has a mild laxative effect. Useful for constipation.
See also: Beet cleaning
Beet storage in winter
Even if the roots are cleaned in time and properly cleaned (without mechanical damage), they are sorted, cleaned of the leaves (cut with scissors, leaving a tail in 1,5-2 cm), storage still needs to be paid close attention.
Take at least the initial period of storage of beet, when it is particularly sensitive to high temperatures and already at + 4 degrees, begins to grow the tops. How to store beetroot?
Properly equipped supply and exhaust ventilation in the cellar will prevent the accumulation of carbon dioxide. Then you can simply store root crops in bulk on the floor, but it is more convenient in a wooden box at 15 cm above the floor and with walls up to 1 m. At the bottom, a wooden grate was made for better air circulation. Roots are evenly cooled without harmful sweating. I watch that in the cellar rodents do not start. Sometimes, under the beet and on top of it, I put the leaves of the fern.
There are other options.
Stack the beetroot over the potatoes. So she absorbs the moisture necessary for her, and potatoes, on the contrary, gets rid of her surpluses.
A familiar summer resident interweaves beets with pure granular sand. At the bottom of the box or trench, sand is poured (moisture within 20%) by a layer of 2-3 cm, then spreads the roots in one layer, falls asleep with a new layer of sand and over again the roots. The space in 5-10 cm above leaves free. After making sure that the sand remained dry.
You can store beets in boxes, pouring salt.
© Author A.GORNY, Cand. s-x Sciences and V. ROSSIYSKY, Minsk
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- When to clean and how to store beets
- Fodder beet varieties - planting and cultivation
- Growing and cleaning of beets
- Storing beets from A to Z - varieties, conditions and 4 storage methods
- Beet seedlings - subtlety tips and secrets, pros and cons
- Winter beet planting - what are its huge advantages
- Beet Growing: 5 Rules + 7 Tips
- What to do so that the beets do not shoot?
- Own beet seeds - cultivation, collection and selection
- Planting beets is my way
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Beets can be sown both in spring and autumn - before winter. For winter sowing, select only cold-resistant varieties that do not shoot for a long time. Among them are 'Cold Resistant 19', 'Winters A 474', 'Bordeaux 237', 'Detroit'. Winter beet planting is usually carried out in late October - early November. After sowing, watering the beds is not necessary. Just cover them with sawdust or fir spruce branches. In the spring, remove the shelter and gently loosen the aisles.
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Cylindrical beet, despite its unusual appearance, is liked by gardeners for their simplicity of cultivation and good taste. In addition, the elongated root vegetables are convenient to cut and grate.
Cylindrical beetroot is mid-season, about 4 months pass from the first germination to maturity. Root crops reach a mass of 600 g, and in length they grow to 15-16 cm. Their color is saturated, dark red, without whitish circles typical of round beets. The yield of a cylindrical beet is high, as it is resistant to diseases characteristic of this culture. It is only necessary to observe simple rules.
Beetroot grows well on the soil after cabbage, cucumbers, carrots or onions.
In order to achieve a bright dark red color, it is worth choosing a sunny area, in the shade the beet grows pale. Seeds begin to sow after the soil warms up to 6 °, this is around mid-May. The width of the bed should be about 1 m. Furrows make every 25 cm, pour and dip the seeds to a depth of about 3-4 cm. Then mulch with peat.
In order for the root vegetables to grow to their optimum size, dilute the beets 2 times. First, you need to do this after the first shoots, so that the distance between them is 2-3 cm, and when a pair of real leaves appear, increase the clearings to 10-12. See if you do everything right, then in September-October, harvest an excellent crop.
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We sow beets in autumn
Beets can be sown not only in spring, but also in late autumn, for the first frosts. With sufficient snow cover, its seeds perfectly winter and already with the first rays of the spring sun they start growing. Beetroot podzimnego sowing very early and gives vitamins and greenery, and root vegetables. In the spring, it will not be necessary to "catch the weather" for sowing: the plants themselves will determine the optimal timing of germination and easily transfer recurrent cold snaps.
The best predecessors of beets: tomatoes, potatoes, peppers. Deposited from ethical crops, the beds are dug up, humus, ash, and some phosphorus fertilizers are added. I Just not fresh manure! Sowing is carried out after frosts. One of the folk signs of the beginning of winter sowing is the complete fall of foliage from cherries. Seeds are sown dry and in dry land! If autumn is wet and warm, sowing is better to postpone.
To get a good harvest, choose quality, full-bodied seeds. Norm should be slightly increased in comparison with spring sowing. It is better to use special varieties that are not inclined to throw out peduncles in harsh conditions: A47 Subzone, Cold-resistant 19, Polar flat. The latter is specially created for the northern regions, its root crops fully ripen through 50-70 days after emergence.
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Long-playing beet
In order to eat the beets early in the summer, I plant the early varieties.
But I do not forget about the late ones, because it is the autumn roots that can be stored almost until the next harvest.
For a long time already I grow a grade of the Cylinder. Its fruits are elongated and occupy less space on the bed. But this does not mean that the beets can thicken. At the end of July, I necessarily thin the Cylinder, leaving gaps of at least 10 cm. Torn root crops I use for food, and the remaining ones grow until the beginning of October. By this time they reach 200 g, and individual instances-and 250! In this case, they are perfectly preserved.
It has excellent keeping quality and Renova. The fruits of this variety are also cylindrical, can reach 350 g! But on average - about 200 g. The pulp is tender, juicy, saturated dark purple.
Last year, I decided to try new varieties - planted Ataman and Crimean borsch. Their taste was appreciated by homemade ones, and the keeping quality of root crops did not disappoint. A neighbor praises the mid-season hybrid Red Cloud F1. Next year I will definitely plant this beet.
In order for root crops to be large, every 2 weeks I feed plants with potassium fertilizers. You can take even chlorine-containing, as the beet is resistant to this element.
Nelli KOTOVA, Orel region.
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Beetroot - its cleaning time
To ensure that the beets are well ripened and well kept, I remove it, depending on the weather, 15-22 September. This culture is not cleaned early, because from mid-August to early September, root crops gain most of their weight and nutrients. If the autumn frosts are promised, I cover the beets with a spunbond. You need to do this carefully, so that the leaves do not come off ahead of time, otherwise the root will lose weight because the beet will almost cease to grow.
If there is warm dry weather, then I remove the large and medium root crops, and small give rise to the first of October. Before storing for storage, I dry the beets in a gazebo, where only scattered sun rays fall. After that, I lay the harvest for storage in the cellar.
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Beet priorities
To achieve a good harvest of beets, I determined for myself a few important rules of cultivation.
First of all, I plant beets in an open area without shading - the root crop loves the sun. Be sure to thin out the seedlings when the beets grow to a height of about 10 cm, leaving a small distance between the plants. During the period of intensive growth of leaves and root crops, I often water the beets. At the same time, I feed with ammonium nitrate {5 g per 1 sq. m) and an aqueous solution of the infused manure (1: 8).
To prevent ердеццевинной rot, I spray the plants with 0.1% solution of boric acid (1 g per 1 l of water). I fertilize beets only in the first half of summer. In addition, I try not to wet the beetroot, especially in the second half of the summer, otherwise the fruits can be rotten and will be poorly stored.
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Beetroot - Chowder
Our traditional Russian table I can not imagine without beets! Therefore, one of the main vegetables in my garden is beets. Despite the fact that there are many modern varieties and hybrids now, I prefer the old varieties - Kuban borsch-vaya, Cylinder and Bordeaux.
In Siberia, summer is short, so I grow beets seedlings (in addition, in summer and so much work, and also to squeeze the beetroot-hoodily, there is not enough time). In the second half of April I sow a row of beets of my favorite varieties in the greenhouse 3, water and cover with non-woven fabric. In early June, when the bird cherry blossom and there is no threat of frost, I plant seedlings in the open ground.
I have a place for beets along the edges of the beds. Carrots, onions, garlic, etc. grow in the center, and I plant beets at the edges. I make a groove, pour ash and compost, water and plant seedlings. A week, of course, she gets sick, takes root, but then she grows and grows well to a good size.
At this time, the main thing is to water it in time, preventing the earth from drying out. Beets are very fond of water, so I moisturize the plant regularly to prevent root crops from cracking. With irregular heavy watering, water metabolism in the plant cells is disturbed and the fetus cracks. Once, in the middle of summer, I feed the beets with an aqueous solution of mineral fertilizer and pour 2 times with salt water (in a 10-liter bucket of water I dissolve 1 cup of salt). So the beets become sweeter, and the soil receives additional nutrients. A month before digging up the beets, I practically stop watering (excess moisture adversely affects keeping quality), especially since August is usually rainy. For harvesting, I choose a sunny day, so that the beets are well dried out in the fresh air, and then they are lowered into the basement. I keep in boxes with sand.