Repaired raspberry - the advantages of cultivating the repairing varieties
Contents ✓
Repair raspberries - care and growing features
The berries of the repair raspberry keep up at the time of the autumn sale of seedlings, so, despite the considerable price, they are bought up instantly.
Yes, and how to resist, if the sellers guarantee the receipt of two crops of large and fragrant berries.
Having bought on advertising tricks, many gardeners start to look after it, as behind usual raspberries, and instead of an abundant crop of them disappointment waits.
Success is expected only by those who know about the peculiarities of this culture and competently cares for planting.
Repairing raspberries are able to bloom and bear fruit twice during the growing season. In summer, berries are formed on the fruit branches of last year's stems, and in autumn - on the tops of young shoots of the current year. However, hoping for a double raspberry crop in our region is not particularly worth it.
If you get, then mediocre: forcing a fruit-bearing patch of raspberries in early summer, you will postpone the beginning of the autumn fruiting, at a later date, thereby significantly reducing the size of the possible crop. Summer harvest will also be modest, because bushes do not have time to retreat and recover after late-fruiting fruiting.
Therefore, the most correct is to get one summer-autumn harvest on the shoots of the current year.
Reference by topic: Raspberry remontant - cultivation and varieties, care and reproduction
Five advantages of raspberry raspberry
1. Repaired raspberry yields in the first year after planting. If you plant it in October (or early spring), then from the end of August you will already collect large berries. They do not deteriorate and do not fall off the bushes for a long time, they can be collected once a week.
2. This shrub practically is not damaged by pests or diseases. All insects, lovers of sweet berries, are arranged for the life cycle of ordinary raspberries, which fructifies from the second year of life. In other words, all insects are baffled, and the diseases of the repair raspberry can not fully develop, because in the late autumn, the shoots that are harvested are cut to zero and destroyed along with the entire infection.
3.No need to worry about her wintering: no shelter, no crouching anything.
4. Late flowering. It starts usually after serious spring frosts pass, so flowers rarely suffer from them.
5. In contrast to ordinary raspberries, which spread out around their offspring, which it is even more difficult to cope with than with weeds, the repairman does not scatter so much over the site.
... and three minuses of remont raspberries
1. Repaired raspberry is very demanding for light. Plant it should be in the most illuminated places in the garden. Even a slight shading, which is permissible for raspberries of normal fruiting, significantly delays the beginning of ripening of berries and leads to a decrease in yield. The distance in the row between the bushes should be about 0,7 m, the spacing is not less than 1,5 m.
2. It is difficult to propagate in traditional ways, since this raspberry gives very few root offspring.
3. The berry is large, beautiful, the bushes are fruitful, the taste of raspberries, but there is no aroma ...
Seven Moments of Proper Care for a Repairing Raspberry
If you follow the below-mentioned agrotechnics, then the raspberry raspberries will ripen a few weeks earlier, and the harvest of the berries will be sweeter and more plentiful.
See also: Cultivation of patch raspberry according to the American pattern
1. Timely planting raspberry raspberry.
Plants planted in optimal time (early October), outstrip the growth and yields planted in the late autumn and spring terms.
2. In each hole before planting make 1-2 buckets of humus and a glass of full mineral fertilizer (without chlorine).
3. When planting, the root neck should be at the same level with the surface of the soil, both its penetration and bulging are unacceptable. And only on light soils, which even in the spring the upper layer dries up quickly and with a shallow planting, the roots may suffer from a lack of moisture, the neck is buried at 3-5 cm. The main shoot is cut to a height of 35-40 cm (also about pruning raspberry raspberries can be read here).
4. Shoots will grow faster, if in May to establish arcs and cover bushes lutrasilom. Lightweight cover materials can cover the bushes from July until late autumn.
5. In April - May, and then at the beginning of June, it is good to make liquid top dressing with either chicken droppings (1:20), or slurry (1:10), or a solution of mineral fertilizers (15 g of ammonium nitrate per bucket of water, 40 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate).
6. In the fall (in late October - early November), all sterilized shoots are cut out. You should not hurry with pruning, you can do it after the snow falls and even in the spring. Before the soil freezes from the leaves and shoots, nutrients will come to the roots, which will allow the bushes to develop faster next year.
7 If the autumn is not very warm, for a fuller maturation of the autumn harvest, it makes sense to conduct the rationing of the inflorescences. At the same time, remove up to half of the weakest fruit branches on the stem, as well as buds and flowers, unable to give ripe fruits until frost. This operation not only accelerates maturation, but also improves the quality of the remaining berries.
Useful adviceт
If the raspberries need to be multiplied, cut out the middle of the second or third year of the bush's life. Preserved roots will give good seedlings for subsequent planting.
Remontantanya raspberry - gums and fertilizer
Raspberry is a two year old plant. In the first year, shoots grow both in length and in thickness. In the second season, fruit branches develop from the buds, on which the crop is formed. Soon after fruiting last year's shoots die off. They are cut out and removed from the site.
Raspberry roots are perennial. At the base of the bush and on roots located close to the surface, buds are laid in the middle of summer, from which new shoots grow in the spring of next year. The roots give a sufficient number of buds only on loose soils. The latter, along with proper top dressing, is one of the most important conditions for obtaining a sufficient number of powerful shoots and, therefore, a good harvest.
Fertilizer raspberry before planting or during planting
Raspberry tolerates moderate acidity, but if the soil is very acidic (pH - less than 5,5), then liming will significantly increase the yield. The best form of lime fertilizer is dolomite flour. Raspberry has high demands on the fertility of the upper humus layer, so on poor soils it is necessary to make 15-20 kg per 1 sq. M of manure or compost. On soils of medium and high cultivation, you can limit yourself to 10-12 kg per 1 sq.m. On soils with medium nutrient supply, phosphorus fertilizers are applied at a dose of 25 g of superphosphate per 1 m30; potash - 1 g of potassium sulfate per XNUMX sq.m. Fertilizers close up for plowing or digging.
If fertilizer has not been applied to the raspberries before planting, you can do this when planting. Plant plants in pits or trenches the size of 30x40x30 cm. At the bottom make 4-5 kg of organic fertilizers, 30 g superphosphate and 40 g of potassium sulfate. After planting raspberries are watered and mulched with peat or humus layer in 3-5 cm.
Fruiting plantations With a good preplant planting of soil with fertilizers in the first 2-3 years, raspberries can not be "fed". In the future, fertilize necessarily. Every year, 1-3 kg of organics, 4 g of nitrogen (9 g of ammonium nitrate or 26 g of urea, or 20 g of ammonium sulfate), 44 g of phosphorus (this is 9 g of superphosphate), 19 g of potassium (about 12 g it is 24 g of sulfate or 20 g of potassium chloride, or 120-150 g of wood ash).
FOR THE NOTICE
Raspberries can be planted both in spring and autumn. However, autumn planting is preferable - the end of September, October. In this case, it is better to prepare the soil in advance (for spring planting - in the fall, and the length of the autumn - 2-4 weeks before planting).
Growing and caring for maintenance raspberries - the opinions of summer residents
About the raspberry raspberry in our garden ..
Recently, many disputes have arisen about the repair raspberry. I want to do my bit too.
Firstly, discourages such a judgment: I have a raspberry raspberry growing for the third year, and I advise everyone not to cut it in the fall. Well, how can you judge the perennial bush for two years? Yes, raspberry all its potential, then only shows at 4-5-th year, when the bush will increase the power and get stronger!
Secondly, people in the southern regions mainly write. They, of course, have a longer summer and more heat. Perhaps, in the south, the repair raspberry easily fruits twice a summer, but in our non-black soil it must be cut in autumn. I'll tell you how I came to this conclusion.
At the beginning of the 1990-ies, I bought a bush of the Indian summer (then it was the only grade of raspberry raspberry on sale). In the early years, I grew it like a simple raspberry (I completely did not raise the bush in the autumn), and I even liked it: in the summer it began to bear fruit earlier than usual.
However, the second time (already on young shoots), raspberries started to bloom late, in September, and the first berries ripened in the second half of September, when it is cold or even rainy. As a result, the berries were very few, small and mediocre in taste. And where does the taste come from, if there is no heat or sun? For several years of cultivation, only a long, warm autumn fell one time, and I was able to harvest a more or less decent crop.
It was a pity to refuse repair raspberries, and since all its charm is just in the autumn fruiting, I decided to focus on it - after all, in summer there is enough plain raspberry. In the fall, I cut all the bushes to ground level and covered the soil around them with a layer of humus. In May of the following year, a friendly growth of young shoots began. When they grew to 10-15 cm, I thinned them, leaving 4-5 strongest in the bushes. As it grew, I tied the bushes to the trellis, and in the fall they surprised me. Firstly, flowering began in mid-August, and not in September, as before, and secondly, the berries were much larger and sweeter, and the yield was much larger.
In recent years, many new varieties of repair raspberry appeared. I could not resist, I bought a bunch of varieties Orange miracle. With him, I did not begin to experiment, I grow the same way. The next year the Orange miracle showed itself in all its glory: peach-colored berries, very large, sweet! The first ripen in early August, when the fruiting of ordinary raspberries is coming to an end, so that the berry conveyor is not interrupted.
Removable raspberries bear fruit until the frosts. The harvest didn’t count specially, I can only say that I freeze autumn raspberries for the winter (3-4 kg), and eat about the same amount fresh, often directly from the bush - because at that time there can be no larvae in it, the berry is clean. And all in all, I have three shrubs of remont raspberries.
When it gets really cold, I cut off the ends of the branches with the unripe berries and flowers, tie them into bundles and hang them at home warm. Unripe berries are gradually ripening, and the remaining twigs with ovaries and flowers I dry and use in winter for colds. I wish everyone to make friends with a patchwork raspberry!
Natalia VISHNYAKOVA. Murom
How to grow raspberries on virgin soil
Our family acquired the cottage not so long ago - three years ago. Everyone is very happy: a young pine grows on the site, good neighbors live nearby, the river is not far, but as soon as it came to planting, a serious problem arose - there was only one untouched virgin land! At first we were confused, but then we gathered our courage and went into battle!
It's about a raspberry patch. First, they removed the sod from it and transferred it to the place of the future garden bed using the “grass to grass, earth to ground” method, then closed the entire turf removed with black covering non-woven material.
And the place where it was removed, fertilized with ash, sulphate potassium, superphosphate and planted raspberries varieties Credo.
Throughout the year, under black covering material, the turf rotted, and in the spring we opened the film and saw that the process was not yet complete, but everything was going according to plan, so we dug up the soil with ash, complex fertilizer, loosened it and again covered it with the same material . Then crossed in it cross-shaped holes and planted zucchini in them.
All summer they regularly fertilized and watered this high bed, and in the autumn they took a wonderful crop. Then they opened the fabric and made sure that the decomposition process was nearing completion, and instead of turf - hard, unsuitable for planting land - we now have loose, soft, fertile soil! We laid out this wonderful country house under the bushes of already growing raspberries, and new inhabitants were settled on the finished bed - raspberry varieties Vysokaya, Giant ruby and Pride of Russia.
And now it's spring.
Raspberry feels fine. As soon as the first green leaves appeared, we immediately began to look after the promising bushes. The earth was covered up, the raspberries were surrounded with cardboard boxes and covered with mown grass. They fed a complex fertilizer and infusion of fermented herbs (in a 200-liter barrel they put a pack of yeast, skewed grass, weeds, poured old jam, poured bread crusts, food waste, poured water and left for a week).
All summer we watched our raspberries, and she pleased us with the first large berries - exactly those that were declared by the breeders of the purchased varieties. And the next year, matured, matured raspberries brought a crop several times more than the previous one. The berries are dessert and table type with a pleasant characteristic aroma, very tasty.
So for three years we have turned the virgin soil into a fertile soil and now we have good yields of raspberries of promising varieties.
© Alina Hafizova Perm
© N.ZASTENKINA, agronomist and R.Matveeva (top dressing and fertilizer of remont raspberries)
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Growing raspberries - planting care and reproduction
- Raspberry leaf raspberry - my reviews
- Raspberry varieties Yellow giant, Orange miracle and Apricot - my reviews
- Types of raspberries (photo and description) - planting and care
- Black Raspberries "Cumberland" - and the harvest and the hedge
- 2 excellent ways to prune remontant raspberries - one-year and two-year
- What kind of growths in raspberries?
- TOP-15 varieties of large-fruited raspberries - photo + name + description
- Repairing raspberries - planting and care: my reviews (Moscow)
- Raspberry planting and nursing in the Vladimir region
Subscribe to updates in our groups and share.
Let's be friends!
#
Many gardeners raspberry ranks are divided at a distance of up to 2 m from each other. Comfortable conditions! But what if the site is small, but I want to see a raspberry summer and a patchwork in the garden? I found a way out. In the first row of the southern side of the site planted a repair, and in the second, after 1,2 m, a year of maturity. As a result, plants do not thicken each other, do not shade, grow in turn.
At the beginning of the season, the summer raspberry begins (2-meter shoots illuminate the sun well). And she
does not interfere with its repairing "sister", because in the autumn the entire above-ground part is trimmed "to zero." When the stems of the repair raspberry are gaining strength, summer harvest is already underway. In early August, I cut out the summer raspberries from the shoots that carried the shoots. And from the second decade of August, already abundantly bearing the repair. The benefits of raspberry varieties are many, they ripen unevenly, and therefore until the very frosts we eat large delicious and healthy berries.
Alexander NIKONOV, Nizhnekamsk
#
I go to the market in August. I look at one woman in a jar of raspberries in an alcoholic solution, so large that it cannot be expressed in words, but there are bushes nearby. I could not resist, went to see, asked. It turned out that this is the Pride of Russia variety - it is not remontant, so it was alcoholized so that the goods could be shown to customers. Of course, I bought three bushes (I would have taken more, but I had already lowered all the money). At home I spread a growth stimulator in a three-liter jar and lowered the seedlings there with roots for a couple of hours. Meanwhile, she went to prepare the holes for planting. When the seedlings were planted, I decided that they were too tall (it would be very difficult for the roots to deliver nutrients all over the trunk), and I cut them off. In the hands were strong, plump, green sticks.
And then it dawned on me: the diluted life-giving solution remained in the bank - let me, I think, put them there. Suddenly what happens?
From the trunks, I removed all the foliage so that they would not take the excess force, put it in the water and forgot it until new ones began to swell in place of the old ones. Immediately decided to put in the ground, and then the houses are warm and leaves can blossom, the streets are cool, rainy and damp (in general, all the conditions for rooting). Petrushki planted in the holes at an angle, rammed the ground and put plastic bottles without a neck. Everything else was done for me by autumn: she poured and covered the leaves. In the spring I took off the shelter, all the seedlings swelled buds.
So, from three bushes I got six and for the same money. But raspberries are really a miracle: from one bush I scored five kilos of berries!
#
Repaired raspberry
When planting the plant I place in a row at a distance of 50 cm, row spacing is 1,5 m. Pour humus (1 bucket to 1 sq.), Add wood ash (1) and ammonium nitrate (100 g). Fertilizers are mixed with fertile soil. Then the plants are well watered and necessarily mulched with dry needles. During weeding, of course, I remove excess shoots, which take away strength from the plant, while the berries are reduced. At 1 sq. M I leave 4-5 bush. Repair varieties, according to
Raspberry and strawberry strawberries are my favorite cultures. I look after them, observing certain rules. And as a result - good harvests!
#
Malinnik for two cottages
Raspberries are usually planted along the fence so that its young shoots do not attack the beds and the plot. But one big problem remains - radical siblings penetrate the fence, and not all neighbors put up with uninvited guests.
My neighbor at first also expressed dissatisfaction, but he and I decided everything peacefully. I suggested that he not fight raspberries, but smash the same raspberry on the other side of the fence, only plant another variety. The neighbor approved my proposal. After all, raspberries are a delicious berry that is loved by both mine and his grandchildren. Now the neighboring young shoots penetrate my site, and mine to it. In addition, the pollination of different varieties is higher than when using one.
To prevent raspberries from spreading further to the area allotted to her, I planted a row of beets on the border with the raspberry, and my neighbor - potatoes. Caring for vegetables, at the same time we chopped off the shoots. This year I plan to plant cabbage on the border garden.
#
It attracts high and stable yields
Fertilize raspberry raspberry begins with the end of July and continues until frost. And it is capable of yielding both on biennial and annual shoots. But I completely cut off all the shoots for the winter, since the first crop at the two-year-old stems weakens the plants, and the berries will eventually be less.
Recently, I prefer the varieties Orange miracle and Elite 30-178-1. Berries are large (up to 4 cm and weighing from 4 to 10 g), delicious, perfectly tolerate transportation and can be stored for a long time. I mulch raspberries with overgrown manure, grass. During the season 2-3 times I give 20-25 g of nitrogen fertilizer (urea) per meter of row or the overgrazed manure, I feed it with Mullein solution (1: 10). If the soil is acidic, I add dolomite flour (0,5 l to 1 sq.m). As a potash fertilizer I use ash - 150-300 g per 1 sq.m. I pour raspberries regularly under the root, especially during the flowering and tying of berries - then they will grow larger and the harvest will be higher. I reproduce raspberries in September-October (in the autumn it is better rooted). I dig up the root with the sprout and plant it on the prepared place. In the landing pit mixed with the ground add humus, 2-3 st.l. superphosphate and 0,5-1 l ash.
TIP:
In autumn, feed the plants with ash and superphosphate (fill in the root area - 50-100 g for 1 sq.m). For winter, cover the trimmed plantation of raspberries with rotted manure, but only in a thin layer, so that it would be easier to shoot in spring.
The undoubted advantages of the annual pruning of raspberries are: the care of the plantation is facilitated, the shoots in winter do not freeze. In addition, along with remote shoots, possible sources of diseases and pests are also destroyed. So, there is no need to treat with pesticides!
#
Raspberry News Kuzmina known from 1912 year She reliably settled in our gardens, and it seemed that for many years everyone knew about this raspberries. However, this year Kuzmina was pleased with the autumn fruit reproduction. The first berries of the second harvest managed to be eaten in the first days of September, the last took off 30 September. The taste and aroma of berries was preserved at the level of the berries of the first harvest, the size of the berries increased almost half.
Another type of summer raspberry also pleased me with repeated fruit. Particularly large calibrated berries distinguished themselves Crossed, matured at the same time. The taste of autumn harvest was slightly less sweet than that of summer harvest berries, but it is eaten with great pleasure. Malina Sunny gave a pronounced grozdevoe fruiting. Grade Yellow giant began to bear fruit for the second time after 12 September. Many berries are bifurcated, which is not peculiar to this variety. The taste of berries is inferior to summer berries, but it surpasses most of the varieties of raspberry raspberry that ripen during these periods.
Varieties Maroseika, Skromnitsa, For health, Balm, growing on the same site, did not again bloom and did not bear fruit.
Should I wait for the harvest from the ripening raspberry bushes next year? Experts say that the harvest will be. To do this, trim the fruiting autumn raspberry varieties in the fall for spring. In spring, cut these shoots to the level of a well-developed kidney. Raspberry will yield in the growth of the bush, but will please the delicious berries.
#
Help me deal with the muck on my strawberries. Everywhere they write that the nematode is a worm about 1 mm long, and describe the signs of its action on strawberries. But on the berries, I have worms up to 20 mm long, about 0,5 mm thick, similar to pinworms, but thinner. They live to a depth of 30 mm and entangle the berries themselves, and the bushes do not look oppressed. No poisons and folk remedies take them. My neighbor and I (they first appeared at her) have been struggling with this muck for three years - to no avail.
#
Thank you - a wonderful article - you can write a lot about repair raspberries and there is always something you don’t know!