Why carrots horny, crooked
They dug up carrots, but the harvest did not please: the root crops grew with many processes (“fingers”). Why? And what to do to make the carrots smooth and not horny and clumsy as in the photo?
Love BEREZIN, p. Bereznik of the Kirov region.
Responds to Nikolai ROGOVTSOV, agronomist
To get smooth and beautiful roots of carrots, you must observe several basic requirements when growing them and carefully care for the plants.
Horned Carrots grows where the soil is heavily compacted. Therefore, beds should be prepared from autumn.
In autumn, the soil is dug up to a depth of at least 20 cm, in the spring it should be deeply shoveled again in the spring of 1,5-2 weeks before sowing. This is especially necessary to do on heavy, clay, swimming soils. On such soils, sand, rotted sawdust are introduced in the fall, and compost in the spring.
Ugly roots are formed from fresh manure. Therefore, it is introduced only under the previous culture: cabbage, cucumber, pumpkin, early potatoes.
Lime materials and ash can not be applied directly to the soil before sowing, and potassium chloride or potassium salt can also be fertilized with plants.
The drying of the soil after sowing and within a month after emergence also leads to the ugliness of the root crops. Therefore, it is necessary to conduct timely irrigation with mandatory loosening of the rows.
This phenomenon can also manifest itself from damage to rootlets of plants at a young age by pests (carrot fly, bear and etc.).
WHY CARROTS GROW HORNY, UROL AND TASTY - TESTIMONIALS
WHY CARROTS ARE NON-CANDY AND TASTY
How can it hurt, when, caring all the summer for carrots, in the autumn instead of large and sweet root crops you get a mountain of small, curved or shaggy, and exhausted by the moves. And it is caused by specific reasons. You need to deal with them without waiting for the end of the season, so that you have time to work on your mistakes.
Where do the “horns” and the “tails” come from?
Most often, the appearance of distorted root crops is caused by the following incorrect actions of gardeners:
1) growing on heavy clay soils that do not allow air to pass through. As growth grows, the root crop encounters in its path an obstacle in the form of compacted soil and is bent;
2) introducing fresh manure or unripe humus. Organic fertilizers should be better applied to previous crops (cucumbers, onions, cabbage or early potatoes) or from autumn, and then in the form of a well-bred humus;
3) sowing in a loose, uncultivated land. A seedbed for sowing carrots should be prepared from autumn so that the earth can settle. Be sure to add superphosphate to the soil.
Carrots can be not only twisted, but also horned or multi-tailed. The main reason is damage of the rootlet at an early stage. There are several options:
a) the seeds germinated longer than necessary, as a result of overgrown rootlets damaged during sowing;
b) repeated drying of crops before emergence and in the first month of cultivation of carrots. The gentle tips of the roots in this case die off one of the first;
c) rough pulling of superfluous carrots during thinning (either it was carried out late in strongly thickened crops) or weeds during weeding;
d) the spine was damaged by insects (carrot fly, wireworm, bear);
e) frequent, but superficial watering. Because of them grow freaks, in which from the wide head leaves not one long root, but several short ones. The central spine, after passing through a moist layer of soil, stumbles on a dry and dense one. He has nothing left to do but to direct the side roots to the sides.
Increased hairiness
Root hairs root crops are usually released when a dense crust forms on the soil (when the root system suffocates without oxygen) or in search of moisture. Carrots will not grow shaggy if it is provided with timely abundant watering and regular loosening of the soil in the aisles. If you do not have the opportunity to so water carrots throughout the season, water it well in the first month, and then gradually reduce the watering to a minimum.
Immediately after sowing, it is better to cover the garden bed with plastic wrap so that the water does not evaporate. After emergence, it should be removed and replaced with non-woven material. But even in the first month it is impossible to superficially water the garden. In moderate weather it is enough - once every 10 days, but so that the earth is saturated with moisture by 20 cm.
Not liking the orange beauty and an excess of moisture, root crops from this crack and even unfold. Another reason for the appearance of cracks can be excessive fertilizing with fertilizers, especially nitrogen fertilizers.
So that you know
The first thinning is performed when the first true leaf appears. And just need to thin out the carrots 2-3 times. In this case, the final distance between root crops depends on the variety and planting method - in rows, ribbons ... So, carrots of a cylindrical shape need less space than conical ones. After each thinning, the plants are spudded so that the shoulders of root crops do not stick out of the ground.
On a note:
Nitrogen fertilizing requires carrots only until the root crop is formed. In the second half of the summer, plantings are fed with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers.
Worse than bitter radish
The most important thing in the orange spine is juicy sweetness. Deterioration in his taste may occur:
1) when used for sowing hybrids F2. If you collect seeds from Ft hybrids, next year hybrids of the second generation will grow. In agriculture, only the first hybrids are used, because in the process of growing F2 hybrids the property of the ancestor begins to dominate - A white wild carrots, and it is bitter;
2) if the shoulders of root crops bulge out of the ground. In the sun they turn green and get a bitter taste.
Bitterness is the response of root crops to damage by a carrot fly and wireworm or a leaf block attack. You can find out about the appearance of the latter by suddenly turning curly leaves. This is especially true if there is a coniferous forest near your site.
To the appearance of bitterness and woody carrots leads to a lack of phosphorus and potassium. And also growing it on acidic soils.
By the way, acidic soil is another reason that carrots grow shaggy or ugly.
By the way
If in autumn, humus (6 kg / sq.m) is added to the garden, and urea (15-20 g / sq.m), superphosphate 25-40 (g / sq.m), potassium chloride (25-30 g / m0,5), boric acid (0,5 g / m0,5), copper sulfate (0,1 g / mXNUMX), cobalt sulfate (XNUMX (g / mXNUMX) and ammonium molybdate ( XNUMX g / mXNUMX), then the root crops will grow smooth, beautiful and tasty.
© Author: Tatyana MIRONCHIK, agronomist-seed producer
WHY THE "GIRL" GREAT HORNS
Many gardeners are surprised, harvesting the carrot crop, and can not understand why the roots grew so ugly? And really, why is this happening?
Manure is contraindicated
This happens for many reasons. First of all, which experts have repeatedly told gardeners, it’s not necessary to add undecomposed organic fertilizers for carrots! However, every year some vegetable growers diligently fertilize the beds, anticipating a large crop in advance. Root vegetables with such a diet, of course, do not complain of hunger, but become ugly. The presented photo shows one of the options for carrot ugliness: the reason for this is unspoiled manure.
When organic fertilizers (and especially manure) are applied, a lot of solid straw residues are formed in the soil. Gentle roots, having stumbled upon them, bend and bend. And yet - with the decomposition of organic residues in the soil, the carbon dioxide content rises sharply. And this can lead to damage to the delicate root - here’s the “increased branching”.
Note
When “fresh” organic fertilizers are applied, the plant grows longer, and the content of putrefactive bacteria in the soil increases. Because of this, root crops begin to decay right in the ground.
Other causes of “horned carrots”
However, there are other causes of ugliness of root crops. Here they are:
- root crops cracked - there was plentiful, but irregular watering;
- root crops are small and ugly-dense sowing, untimely weeding and thinning, it is also possible that sprouts used for thinning were used as seedlings;
- multi-tailed root crop - here the reason lies in the introduction of lime: carrots do not tolerate large doses of calcium;
- hairy carrots - there may be an excess of moisture or nitrogen in the soil;
- large lentils on the rhizome - the reason is too dense or moist soil, root crops "suffocated" from a lack of oxygen;
- the root crop is curved - the soil was not deeply processed, less than 25 cm, and the carrots simply could not fit in the treated layer;
- root crops grew branched - it means that carrots were planted on a poorly prepared bed with heavy, not drained soil. When digging, they brought in fresh manure that did not turn humus or potash fertilizers containing chlorine;
- in root crops, several short roots go off from the wide head on the sides - in dry weather, the plants were watered little and irregularly.
Be careful with the seeds!
I settled on the basic miscalculations of vegetable growers. But gardeners may be "guilty without guilt." Poor-quality seeds began to appear on the market more and more often. Surely, many saw yellow-white carrots. This is not at all a new variety bred by breeders. Such root crops can be safely sent to the trash as a marriage, no taste, no good for such carrots. And the strange harvest is explained by the fact that some firms selling seeds continue to purchase them in Central Asia, where they are much cheaper. Unable to constantly update the mother liquors, local farmers-entrepreneurs continue to grow vegetable crops for seeds using old degenerate varieties. As a result, yellow-white and even ugly carrots grow, despite strict adherence to all agricultural standards. So the choice of seed should be approached very carefully, trying not to fall for the cheapness hook.
© Author: Iosif Vladimirovich VOYTYUK, Kazan
WHY HORNY, MULTI-BURNED CARROT GROWS - MY EXPERIMENT
For four years now, I have not been able to make carrots: each time more and more multi-fingered root crops grow.
Finally, the disaster has reached such limits that everything is already an edge. And last season I started experimenting. In the fall, the land on all ridges was calcified, filled with humus and dug up. In the spring I brought in a little superphosphate and ash and dug it up again to a depth of 15-20 cm. And then I went over all the earth with my hands - I can't find a lump!
Carrots were planted on May 1 at an air temperature of 19 °. I dug grooves on one of the selected beds, spilled them with warm water with a small addition of potassium permanganate and, when the solution was absorbed, decomposed the seeds, lightly sprinkling them with earth. And then she covered the entire ridge with non-woven material. It's still a handy thing! And the "efficiency" of non-woven fabric is great, and it is easy to spread it, and it protects planting from frost, and does not interfere with watering.
By the way, the garden bed with carrots was regularly watered directly over the geotextile only with warm water taken from a barrel that I had specially installed in the greenhouse.
On May 12, after the end of all planting work on the site, 'I discovered that I still had a piece of free land near the young apple tree, and planted six more rows of carrots there, also covering the soil with non-woven fabric. On May 20, carrots rose densely in a large garden bed, and I took a shelter from it. Under the apple tree, of course, the seedlings appeared 10 days later, but they also looked cheerful. Both the one and the other carrots were fed on June 10 with a solution of bird droppings. After a couple of weeks, she treated me with fermented grass, and after the same period of time, also with potassium fertilizer. The rest of the care of the plants was the most common: weeding, loosening and watering.
I began harvesting at the end of September (if you delay with this even a little, you can easily get frozen), choosing a dry day. And the results are pretty interesting. On a large bed of multi-fingered root crops, much less grew than in the previous season, but the rest were not only even, but also large. And on the plot under the apple tree there were no defective carrots at all - there they were all even, but, however, not too large (or rather, smallish).
I made the following conclusions from this. Apparently, the reason for the large number of multi-toed root crops is planting in not too warm soil. In general, now it seems to me that our Earth is slowly beginning to cool down. After all, for example, in the early 2000s, when planting carrots in early May, the hands were warm in the soil, but now, if the same deadlines are met, nothing of the kind.
This means that in order to obtain high-quality root crops, the sowing must be shifted by about two weeks,
And the experience with agrofibre is the best confirmation of this. If I had done this with a large garden last year, then, probably, there would have been no spoiled carrots at all. And why then did the carrots grow smallish under the apple tree? Probably, the land for this culture has not been sufficiently prepared. In short, experiments will continue this year.
By the way, I will now try to plant Queen Elizabeth II's repairing strawberries on the covered beds, only I will no longer use agrotextiles, but a black film, in which I will make a hole every 30 cm, where I will plant two bushes. And in the center of the film I will make an additional row of holes so that you can stick plastic bottles with a cut bottom into the garden bed with their necks down. And then I won't have any problems with watering the strawberries!
For the sake of experiment, I will also try to cut tomato plantings by half. What for? And to optimize labor and time costs. Indeed, last year I collected only 11 buckets, and this was more than enough for all of us. All winter then I wondered: where did I put 50 buckets before? How did you manage to rework everything?
© Author: Lyubov Ivanovna NIKITINA. from. Spaso-Barda of the Perm Territory
CARROT: HOW TO GROW NOT HORNED, BUT SWEET AND SMOOTH
To harvest an excellent crop of carrots, I always adhere to the following rules.
I do not bring fresh manure under the culture. I sow seeds where I applied manure 2-3 years ago.
My soil is heavy, loamy, so when preparing a carrot bed, I always add sand (a bucket per 1 sq.m).
If the weather is wet, and the seeds still do not germinate, from time to time I additionally water the bed with carrots through the net to soften the earthen crust.
I make sure that after the first thinning, at least 4 cm remains between the plants.
Tamara ROMANOVETS, Svetlogorsk
COMPLETED BY ALEXANDER GORNY, CAND. S-X SCIENCES
To get a beautiful and even carrot, you need to grow it in open sunny areas.
It is advisable to dig up a bed for carrots in the fall, and in the spring it will be enough to loosen the ground with a pitchfork.
On soils with a shallow fertile layer, it is undesirable to grow carrot varieties with a long root crop. But if you really want to grow just such a variety, sow the seeds in the ridges.
Thin out carrots as carefully as possible. Any damage to root crops can lead to the formation of additional roots.
Stop watering a month before harvesting to avoid cracking the carrots.
Top dressing will make carrots tastier
In order for you to grow (sweet and tasty carrots, a month before harvesting after rain or watering, I add 30-40 g of superphosphate per 1 sq.m.
Immediately after that, I water it with a solution of potassium sulfate (20-30 g per 10 liters of water per 1 sq.m).
Svetlana BEREZNEVA, Volgodonsk
COMMENTARY
One of the reasons why carrots can grow tasteless is indeed a lack of nutrition, so mineral dressing now, in the fall, at the end of growth, when root crops are actively accumulating sugar, can affect the taste. By the way, insufficiently sweet carrots can also be watered with a solution of boric acid (10 g per bucket of water per 1 sq.m of plantings).
But carrots do not always grow tasteless from a lack of nutrition. Often this leads to an excess of nitrogen in the soil.
Svetlana KRIVENKOVA, agronomist
WHY CHILD CARROT - VIDEO
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Why doesn't yew grow after planting in the garden?
- What to do with the scavenger
- To dig or not to dig the ground for onions and other vegetables? My Reviews
- Do tomatoes need a pick ???
- Blooming vines for the middle lane - photos and names
- Optimal height of beds
- Thaw in the middle of winter - plants wake up: what to do?
- Why is arugula bitter?
- Peppers: many ovaries but no fruits
- Hippeastrum in the open ground - planting and care
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I plant a lot of carrots, and it grows even and tasty.
I fill the bed with humus, but I'm not zealous. I noticed that if there is a lot of humus, the carrots will be bitter. I carefully dig up the soil. I make furrows with a hoe. And then I take an ordinary salt shaker, conveniently with three holes. The holes were sharpened with an awl. I pour carrot seeds into it and proceed to sowing. He shook the salt shaker over the row - three seeds fell. Every 4 cm - he shook it again, and so on throughout the garden. You don't have to cut.
I feed with urea once a season (a matchbox for a bucket of water). I water as needed, you don’t need to fill the carrots - she doesn’t like it. Before watering, I pierce the aisle with a pitchfork, then the water reaches the roots well. Weeding, loosening - are required.
By the way, I learned how to cook caviar from carrots. Pass boiled carrots through a meat grinder. Fry onions, add carrots and stew everything, salt. Arrange in banks, roll up.
Blanket with barley. Soak barley in the evening, cook in the morning. Mix with fried onions, boiled and sliced \uXNUMXb\uXNUMXbcarrots or circles, simmer until tender. Tasty and inexpensive.
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Carrots have grown with horns and tails this year. Why?
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- There can be several reasons.
1. The central root was damaged by soil pests - a mole, a shrew, a bear. At the same time, the lateral buds woke up and several of them began to grow at once. As a result, a horned root crop grew. To prevent this from happening in the future, you need to fight pests - set traps for moles and shrews, use poisoned baits for the bear.
2. The root crop came across an obstacle in the soil and, to overcome it, sent the nutrients to the lateral roots, which turned out to be in a more advantageous position than the main root. Before sowing carrot seeds, remove stones from the ground, if any. If the soil is clayey and very dense, add loosening substances - sand, sawdust, rotted compost (one bucket of them per 1 square meter of the garden). Also, if you have dense soil, choose carrot varieties with short roots so that they don't bump into firm soil.
3. If too much manure or nitrogen fertilizers were applied, the excess nitrogen stimulated the awakening of the lateral roots, and they began to grow along with the main root. Fresh or poorly rotted manure must not be introduced into the soil for root crops!
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Once, the godfather complained that her carrot was growing ugly with branched roots. She asked me to tell how I manage to grow large, even root crops from year to year.
So that the seedlings are not too thick, I cook a liquid jelly from starch, let it cool, fill it with carrot seeds (1 tsp seeds per 1 tbsp of jelly), mix everything thoroughly. I pour it into a teapot with a spout and pour a thin stream into grooves with a slightly tamped ground (depth - 0-7 cm). Kissel envelops each seed and prevents it from sticking to others. I sprinkle with loose soil. I make sure that the earth does not dry out, otherwise the shoots can not wait. As soon as 1-2 seedlings appear in the seedlings, I begin to thin out the seedlings. If you sowed seeds in May - thinning is completed by the end of June (no later!).
I water the carrots only in a drought - rarely, but abundantly.
If necessary (if it stops growing), I feed with complex mineral fertilizer.
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There are several reasons why carrots grow with branched roots.
1. The soil on the bed with carrots should be loose, without stones and dense lumps. If your site has dense clay soil, make a digging (to a depth of at least 20 cm) 1, 5-2 buckets of sand per 1 sq.m.
2. Do not grow carrots in areas where fresh manure was introduced in the fall or spring. Also discard fertilizers that are high in potassium (potassium nitrate, potassium sulfate). If the soil needs to be fertilized, use a complex mineral fertilizer, for example, azofoska (1 tablespoon per 1 sq.m).
3. Thin carrots carefully: even minor damage to the root already in the first stages of growth can cause root crops to grow curved or bifurcated.
4. Monitor the acidity of the soil: it should be neutral. Therefore, take away the areas under the carrots for which dolomite flour or gypsum was added in the autumn (300-500 g per 1 sq. M).
Svetlana KRIVENKOVA, agronomist
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Why did ugly carrots grow?
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The growth of the main root of carrots in stressful situations stops. And after this begins the growth of lateral roots, leading to the appearance of multi-tailed freaks.
There are many causes of stress. One of the most popular is under-cultivated soil. A growing root meets an obstacle in the form of compacted soil and bends at best, and at worst it stops growing, and side roots begin to develop actively.
Another reason for the appearance of “horned” carrots may be the presence of fresh manure in the soil. Organic fertilizers are best applied under previous crops (cucumbers, onions, cabbage or early potatoes) or in the fall, and then in the form of a well-rotten humus.
Sometimes the cause of the problem may be drought. Repeated drying of crops before germination, as well as in the first month of growing carrots leads to the death of the delicate tips of the roots. The same result can be obtained with frequent but superficial irrigation. The central root, having passed through a moist layer of soil, stumbles on dry and dense. He had no choice but to direct the side roots to the sides.
You can provoke branching of the root crop yourself - roughly pulling out weeds or excess carrots during late thinning of crops.
Sometimes the cause of the appearance of "horned" carrots is a carrot fly, which damaged the growth point.
O. RAZUMOVA, agronomist
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I will tell you how I grew carrots for the first time last year. I planted the garden beds under it to make it easier to care for it. Has brought humus, ashes and superphosphate, dug up everything. The seeds, not soaked (they were green, which means they had already been processed), laid out one thing at a time in well-watered holes. After their backfilling, she no longer watered, so that there was no crust on the beds.
Since she sowed rarely, and even not all the seeds have grown, there was no need to thin out. After germination pollinated tobacco dust, loosened, watered in the heat, but did not feed. Polola only once. As a result, the tops were lush, and the roots began to look out of the ground. After consulting with my sister, I began to spud them so that they would not turn green. This had to be done often, as they stubbornly climbed up. The whole carrot was large, flat and clean. And I realized that this culture loves loose earth, moisture in the heat and hilling.
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Some people think that the sooner you plant a carrot, the better. I have a different opinion on this. And the weather itself strengthens me in it: every year the earth warms up later and later. So it seems to be warm outside, but still cold underfoot. You dig up the earth even in early May, and ice flaunts on the edge of the shovel. Well, where does it fit? And I gradually got to the point that I began to plant carrots in two stages - in the middle and end of May.
And here is what I want to say in this connection. The carrots from the first batch, planted in the land that has not yet been fully heated, then give a lot of “flowers”, which I have to constantly pull out so that they do not pollinate the “garden” - this is what I call plants intended for divorce. After all, after several times they sent me seeds from the nurseries with extremely bad germination, and even mixed the varieties, I decided to start collecting my own sowing material again. In addition, this carrot also gives a lot of crooked root crops, among which there are often not only “two-fingered”, but even “six-fingered” ones. But carrots from the second batch always grows smooth and large. Hence the conclusion: it is better not to rush into planting this culture, although it’s difficult to put up with it - your hands itch and you constantly look at the calendar.
Last year, the garden was cleaned in the twentieth of September. Then they cut out all the cut panicles to the battery for drying, and then rubbed them with their hands to select the seeds. The seed collected in this way was sifted through a sieve and soaked in salt solution (1 tbsp. Per 1 liter of water): everything that settled on the bottom was taken out, again dried and poured into the bags from the newspaper, and what it popped up was thrown away.
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Carrot: horned and furry
Often, truck farmers, seeing that the ugly carrots have grown on the bed, first of all complain about the seeds they bought. But in fact, unsightly form of root crops are acquired for other reasons.
If the land on the site is heavy, clayey or stony, as the root crop grows, it encounters obstacles (pebbles, dense lumps) on its way, which causes it to curl. To avoid this, in the garden under the carrot in autumn, mix the top layer of soil with sand (1 bucket to 1 sq.m.). In the spring it can not be done - the land will not have time to settle, it will be too loose, and carrots will still grow ugly.
Fresh manure on a site with carrots can also become the reason for the curvature of root crops. Organic fertilizers are applied only under the precursors of carrots - tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, cabbage or early potatoes.
If at the beginning of growth the spine has been damaged, the carrot will also "please" you with "horns" and "tails". The cause may be drought, sloppy thinning, pests (bear, carrot fly).
Excess potassium chloride and calcium are also extremely harmful for root crops and will not allow you to rejoice in the harvest "as from the picture."
And to avoid the cracking of root crops, during harvesting, choose a fine day after 2-3 dry days. Immediately after the rain, the carrot is full of moisture, the pressure of the ground does not allow it to burst, but when exposed to the air, the root crops burst under the pressure of water.
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I have grown carrots for a long time, and always the root crops are clean, without black spots, with a homogeneous orange structure. To achieve this, I apply a simple technique.
After the second thinning in early July, I water the young plants with water, in which I dissolve potassium permanganate and boric acid (both ingredients - 3 g per 10 l). A bucket of solution is consumed per 3 square meters. m beds. However, before this, you need to water the planting of carrots with plain water to prevent root burns.
Treatment with this solution should be repeated after three weeks.
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Why did the carrot form a curved and deformed root crop?
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Most likely, the problem is in soil, clayey or rocky. In such conditions, the root of the carrot warps or dies, and several growth points are formed
The second reason is the introduction of manure or an excess of mineral fertilizers. Or liming shortly before sowing carrots. After manure, there remains a lot of straw residues, on which the spine stumbles and deforms. The decomposition of organic substances in the soil increases the carbon dioxide content, which inhibits growth. An excess of calcium also negatively affects the shape of the root crop, and in addition, badly affects the taste.
The third reason is uneven watering. Carrots are especially vulnerable in the first month. Overdrying of the soil leads to the death of the central root, and several lateral ones grow.
The fourth reason is damage by the larvae of a carrot fly. The tops of damaged plants acquire a purple hue and curls.
What needs to be done to make the carrots please you with an even and beautiful harvest? Carrots love sandy loam or light loamy soils; on clay or loam, they dig it up on a shovel bayonet in autumn, adding river sand. Manure is applied only for the previous crops - tomatoes, onions, potatoes, cucumbers. It's a good idea to plant onions, garlic, rosemary or sage nearby - plants that repel carrot flies. It is important to ensure uniform watering. Preventing the soil from drying out too much, it is spilled to a depth of 20 cm, preferably in the morning, and if it is very hot, then twice a day. Care must be taken to thin out the plantings so as not to disturb the neighboring plants.
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Before, digging up carrots, I was just wondering: what strange specimens come across!
Some had several curves of interlaced processes, others were short, and others had cracks.
Such root crops amused my children, but I was not pleased at all.
Later I learned that multi-rod carrots grow in too dense soil. I began to think how to make it more friable and nutritious. Neighbors advised to try to plant siderates. But which are the best loosening of the soil?
First, in a small area, I sowed white mustard. The plant has long roots, and they perfectly loosened the dense earth. In addition, mustard releases substances that cleanse the soil from harmful microorganisms. A healthy soil is a healthy garden crop.
On the second site I sowed buckwheat. Its roots strongly branch and also improved the water and air permeability of the soil.
Now I sow several green manure at once in the fall - mustard, buckwheat, a mixture of vetch, rape and colza. After these siderats, not only carrots, but also beets grow beautifully.
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Very often when harvesting carrots you can find curved, with numerous "fingers" and "tails" roots. Of course, it's completely inconvenient to use such carrots. To grow even roots, I use the following rules.
First of all, I prepare the soil very carefully. It should be loose, not stony, since any interference with the growth of carrots can cause the appearance of freaks. In addition, I never add fresh carrots to carrots, as well as fertilizers containing chlorine.
Best is the rotted compost. Lime for deoxidizing the soil I make from autumn.
After emergence, I try to water the garden more often. And with further growth of watering I limit it, because with excess moisture, the root crops may crack or become “hairy” —with many small white roots. Since carrots are very fond of potassium, during the growth period I water it with a solution of sifted ash - 0,5-1 cup per 10 liters of water.
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Many carrots have strongly got out of the earth, and "hangers" at them now green. Naturally, they will have to be cut off later. And this is the loss of part of the crop. How can you avoid such green "shoulders" in carrots?
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Causes of "getting out" carrots from the ground are either too small seeding, or too dense soil. The optimal depth of seeding is 2-3 cm. Before sowing, beds for carrots must be thoroughly digged. If the soil is heavy, clay, it should be added to it river sand, peat, humus.
If root crops still get out, you need to sprinkle the protruding parts of the earth or hill. Podsypka convenient if the bed for carrots has a formwork of boards (or other material). Secondly, carrots can be defaced. As mulch, weathered peat, humus, needles.
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It often happens that the top part of the carrot roots becomes green. This is due to sunlight.
To avoid such staining, carrots need to be tempered several times so that the root crops were covered by the ground at about 5 cm. It is best to do this three times: in the phase of 5,7 and 10 leaves. In addition to isolation from light, this protects plants from overheating.
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First, do not pour the onion husks to where carrots will grow - if the bow is sick, it can cause diseases.
And secondly, the problem is not with your technology, but with the soil, or rather, with its inhabitants. Carrots are often affected by a nematode. This pest prevents the normal development of the root system, because of which the carrot grows shortened and branched. To get rid of the nematode "chemistry" is impossible, the only way out is to observe the crop rotation. Carrots in the same place to return no earlier than 5-7 years.
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Why do carrot tops get a curly haircut?
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These are tricks of a pest called an umbrella leaf-flea. She sucks the juice from the stems, which leaves the leaves curled. Moreover, both adult insects and their larvae do harm.
Considering that leaf-blocks hibernate in coniferous trees and fly to umbellate cultures in early spring, the main protection measure is the creation of a mechanical barrier for these pests. So, right after sowing, the carrot bed is best to tighten with non-woven material, for example, spunbond. In May-June should also be treated with insecticide against sucking insects, for example, "Fufanon." Usually, one spraying is enough.
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It happens that you pull out a carrot, and instead of a smooth root crop - a fancy weave. At first it’s funny to look at it, but when it comes to cleaning, there’s no laughing matter. Why does this happen?
"Horned", multi-root carrots grow when the main root is damaged. This can happen with belated thinning, biting root tips with pests, drying out the beds with gentle shoots. Koryavoy can grow carrots and when sowing overgrown seeds, when the spine stuck out from the seed is damaged during sowing.
Even carrots can bend in too dense soil: growing
The root can not go vertically down, looking for slack in the dense ground. Therefore, beds should be thoroughly digged, on heavy soils, sand, peat, humus. Only do this from the fall, so that the land can settle a little, and in the spring, only loosen the top layer.
Humus must be completely re-bred, fresh roots do not like root crops. Do not need to make carrots and too much ash and other potassium fertilizers, large doses of potassium are contraindicated. But on the phosphorus fertilizer carrots will respond with good growth.
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Her friend lamented the failed carrots: she expected to grow smooth, bright and sweet, and part of the crop was pale, sinewy, tasteless. It seems that everything grew on the same bed, the care and conditions were the same. Why did this happen?
I first asked what kind of seeds there were. It turned out that the neighbor planted her own, specially grown from the roots of a favorite, but expensive variety. That's the main mistake! Most modern variations are not resistant varieties, but hybrids of F1. Their best qualities they show only in the first generation, and then the signs can change unpredictably, sometimes becoming like distant wild ancestors. therefore
seeds of hybrids need to be bought only from manufacturers.
However, with purchased seeds there are similar incidents. In the pursuit of profit unscrupulous suppliers can pour anything into the bags, drawing a beautiful picture on top. So I write down the names of the stamps and compose my white and black lists.
If you still want to propagate the variety on your own, care must be taken to ensure that the mother plants do not pollinate with other varieties or wild forms of umbellate plants. For this inflorescence, it is necessary to wrap the gauze in advance and to polish by hand.
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My country neighbors were surprised for a long time at the ugly root crops of carrots. They are newcomers, do not yet know all the subtleties, so I had to share my experience (I have been working on the land for almost 50 years). Carrots do not like heavy soil: its roots simply can’t penetrate deep into! The loose earth is the guarantee of an even, juicy carrot.
Regular watering is also very important. I prepare the beds in the autumn, dig a shovel on a bayonet, cover with a layer of grass and leave until spring. I never bring in fresh manure. I plant where cabbage or tomatoes had grown before. They also advise on potatoes - I do not know, I have not tried it. And advised neighbors varieties with small root crops - Parmeks and Chanten, which grow well on problematic soils.
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So as not to grow horned
Why do root crops of carrots grow ugly, "horned"?
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Perhaps, carrots grow in you on the sodden, poorly cultivated soil or on strongly condensed loamy. In this case, the lower part of the root is bent or dies, the growth of the lateral roots is increased, in which the reserve substances are deposited. Most likely, the large area of plant nutrition influences, because of which the carrot side roots, without encountering obstacles from the neighbors, grow to the sides. Deformed root crops and in the case of growing carrots on fresh straw manure, as well as with a lack of boron in the soil. When presowing soil cultivation, add to the rows a granular boron superphosphate. If it is not, then spend foliar dressing of plants with boric / acid solution (5-10 g / 10 L of water). Consumption-0,4 l / 10 sq.m. The soil in the aisles systematically loosen and form the optimum density of plants in rows.
Nikolai KOZIN
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The carrot grows horned.
Every gardener wants to grow a large carrot, and it is insulting if it works, but the root crop is "horned," branchy. Therefore, you need to take care in proper time so that the carrot has the right shape.
To get large and even carrots plant the vegetable in well-loosened soil. Such soil is obtained as a result of double digging-in autumn and in spring. In the spring digging it is desirable to sand the earth with sand and the manure. It is desirable to sow the seeds so that you do not have to thin the planting later. If thinning is still necessary, it should be done carefully, so as not to damage the roots of the remaining carrots. I, for example, do not pull out the plants, but cut off the excess at the ground level.
Regular irrigation is extremely important for the correct development of root vegetables in June and early July.
However, this does not mean that you have to water every day a little. Such a regime can lead to the appearance of a large number of thin rootlets in carrots. Therefore, I water a little less often, but more abundantly, and always put on the nozzle nozzle. This allows you to distribute water more evenly. In addition, without a nozzle a strong stream of water can simply blur the soil and damage young plants. In the second half of the summer I reduce the watering, and then completely take it to nothing. But I do this gradually, reducing the amount of water once or twice. If at this stage water is seldom, but a lot, root crops can crack.
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To carrots grows even and beautiful, adhere to the rules.
Sow the seeds in an open sunny place with a good purge of the site.
The soil should preferably be sandy loamy, light loamy or sod-podzolic. The plot is better for digging (plowing) in autumn. In the spring, it is sufficient to conduct deep, uncontaminated loosening of the earth, without turning its lower layers to the surface.
To introduce fresh organic fertilizers under carrots is undesirable - this will cause the branching of root crops, and the smell of fresh manure will attract a carrot fly.
Now many varieties of carrots with long roots (up to 25 cm), but consider that on soils with a shallow arable layer such roots will turn ugly. In this case, it is better to sow seeds in the crests.
Carrots for long-term storage sowing
in the second-third decade of May. After sowing the rows, so that the soil crust does not form, cover with sifted peat or humus.
■ Spin and loosen the bed as necessary, trying not to damage the roots - this can also cause rooting.
Carrots are bent when thickening, so dilute it 2-3 times, starting with the appearance of the first real leaf. Do this in the evening, and after powdering the plants with ash or ground pepper, so as not to attract the smell of carrot pests.
Water with standing water once in 2 weeks in 2-3 reception, so that the moisture penetrates deeper into the soil (from the surface watering the root can also branch), and then loosen. One month before harvesting, stop watering so as not to cause cracking of carrots.
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Do you sow carrots? You can prepare the salt shaker!
Carrots can not be planted on manure - it will grow “bearded”. Organics can be introduced only in the form of completely rotted humus, and even then in a small amount, otherwise the root crops will be bitter.
Before sowing this crop (in three days), it is useful to water the beds with salt water: root crops will be larger and without horns.
But sowing carrots is a whole art! After all, usually it is not possible to do without thinning, breaking through too dense crops. And still it is possible to distribute seeds more seldom if to use a salt shaker when sowing. But there should be no more than three holes in it. It is necessary to sow like this: shook a salt shaker over a row - and three seeds fell into a groove. After 4-5 cm, you need to shake again, and so - sow the entire garden.
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Several times I tried to grow carrots, bought a variety of varieties. But instead of even, beautiful roots, which are depicted on the bags, I grow some horny, ugly freaks, although I do everything by the rules: thin out, field, water, feed. Tell me what to do to make the carrots even, Large and not crack.
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For the successful cultivation of carrots, several conditions are important. First of all - loose, damp and weed-free soil. Well, and, of course, not just thinning and weeding, but timely thinning (when the first real leaf appears) and regular weeding (mulching). Roots of carrots are usually injured and no longer equal when delayed with these obligatory activities. Carrots and the abundance of nitrogen fertilizers in the soil are harmful - in this case,
has the growth of tops, and root crops begin to branch. They can bend and branch even in the presence of chlorine in fertilizers. Lack of moisture (untimely watering) affects both the taste and appearance of carrots - it can crack. And an excess of moisture will force her to release additional roots, make her "bearded."
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carrots get out of the ground for two reasons: small sowing (I have 2,5 cm) and very dense earth.
If you previously imagine the length of the root crop (25-30 cm), then the soil should be cultivated at the same depth.
If the earth is clayey, it is best, in my opinion, to glue seeds on a tape from toilet paper in advance or wrap them in a small piece from it.
It's a pity for me to waste time on these procedures, but in general reception is good, many are happy.
I am very happy, Svetlana, that you expressed your opinion and provoked a useful polemic, because we gardeners often use some techniques that seem right to us, and do not think about why they were invented. In general, the summer resident who does not experiment with the selection of garden crops and methods of their cultivation is bad. Irina
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Carrot grows at me equal, accurate, not at all clumsy.
And all because I prepare the beds for an orange beauty in advance. And not anyhow.
Here, for example, manure. It would seem that he scattered in the fall, dug in the spring - and plant yourself. Erroneous opinion. Carrot 8 in this case will grow "horny", and the taste will not please. Manure should be allowed to re-soil in the soil for at least 2-3 years.
I dig twice in the spring, and then I pass through the garden with a pitchfork to remove the small pebbles. It turns out a "downy bed" for carrots!
If we talk about the fight against pests, then here not all
so simple. Many treatments for carrot and leaf blocks contain chlorine. It is because of him, I think, carrots grow curve and thin. Therefore, I prefer to use folk remedies.
Now about watering. It is important to comply with the measure. If you overfill, the carrot will be covered with a lot of thin roots and will give abundant tops, if not enough, it will grow stiff.
Do not forget about weeding and thinning. Extrude extra sprouts should be strictly upward so as not to damage the root system of neighboring plants.
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Carrots in spots
They grew large carrots, but now it is all in black spots, especially at the bottom of the root crop, because of which half must be thrown away. What is this disease?
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Symptoms are suitable immediately under two carrot diseases: phomosis and black rot.
Fomoz is a fungal disease, in which, besides root crops, the tops of carrots are affected. The source of infection is most often the fungus infected with seeds or plant residues (not only carrots, but also weeds). Black rot leads not only to the appearance of black spots on root crops, but also to the appearance of brown spots on petioles (pay attention to this!). Usually, the disease occurs with excessive moisture in the soil (rain or irrigation). Control measures for both diseases are the same: do not grow carrots at least 4 year on this place, remove the weeds, and in the spring, under a digging, add a double dose of potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.
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On heavy soils, carrots grow small and curved. But you can fix the situation by building a sandy bed.
Since I started practicing such beds (which is already years 6). I will not remember the carrot crop failure. Root roots grow to 45 cm! All as for selection equal, beautiful!
For the garden, dig a trench deep into the 2 bayonet bayonet. In the width and length of the bed do as you like. Fill the trench with a mixture of the extracted land, the manure and the river sand (1: 2: 2). When planting seeds, cover the garden with a layer of hay 5-7, see.
I harvest carrots I without a shovel. I take root from the ground with my hands. I shake the sand, I slightly dry it and send it to the cellar for storage.
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Why carrots are unsweetened
The taste of carrots depends on many factors, we will dwell on each of them in more detail.
Grade
Among the huge variety of varieties and hybrids are carrots with a high sugar content, so lovers of sweet root vegetables will certainly be to taste | Children's joy. Baby sweet, Carotan, Emperor, Honey sugary. Caramel and others,
Agrotechnics of cultivation
Carrots will grow delicious and juicy, if you follow the following rules of agricultural technology. Root crops do not tolerate shading and are sensitive to the mechanical composition of the soil. The culture grows better on light loamy soils. The exception is, perhaps, the variety of Shantane, which grows well even in clayey soil.
Carrots are not so sensitive to predecessors, but growing it in one place does not cost more than 3 years in a row. Despite drought resistance, the culture needs regular watering, especially during root growth, otherwise it will be rude.
Collection and storage
Harvest is necessary only when the root crops are fully ripe. Both unripe and overripe carrots quickly lose their taste. The harvesting period is calculated from the moment of planting and depends on the particular variety. But there is a clear sign that carrots are ready for harvesting - yellowing and dying of the lower leaves.
Keep the crop in a ventilated room. If the air in it is too dry, the roots will begin to lose moisture and will be bitter.
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This year, for the first time, I raised carrot varieties Polar Cranberry. It is unusual not only for its name, but also for its appearance: small carrots are very similar to radish, although the color is bright orange. To taste this carrot liked my grandson, and I was ideally suited for whole-fruit canning.
Polar cranberries are a ripening variety: from seeding to maturation, only 65-70 days pass. Agrotechnics - like carrots of other varieties.
Antonina POPOVSKAYA, Krasnodar Region.
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To carrots grew large
Not so long ago I became interested in gardening, and I had to comprehend the art of growing vegetables by trial and error. That is why I think that I have the right to advise on how to prevent those mistakes that I did in my time. Including pest control of my favorite carrots. One of them is a leaf carrot.
Even you will not think that this insect can be such a malicious pest, it is tiny, only 2 mm long, with transparent wings. But it is the leaf-block that lays eggs on the earliest and tender carrot leaves. Its larvae, like the adult itself, feed on the carrot tops, sucking out the nutritious juices from it. From this, the leaves turn yellow and twist, as a result of which the root of the carrot grows dry, bitter and small.
In order that already in the early stages of the development of carrots, when only its seedlings appeared, to scare off a hundred-block, I sow it between the beds with onions, the smell of which the pest does not like.
In addition, 2 times over the summer I spray carrots with an insecticide solution that destroys the leaf block and larvae.
If you prefer to use folk remedies, sprinkle between the rows a mixture of ash and tobacco dust in 2 stages with an interval of 2 weeks. Sprinkle the carrots with a decoction of tomato tops. You can also pour it 2 times a summer with an infusion of orange peels or tobacco dust - an excellent tool. In general, there is a pest control. The main thing is not to miss and take measures at the first signs of the appearance of a pest.
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To carrots was not "horned"
To carrot was smooth, and not clumsy, I do this: after the second thinning (in July), I water the plants with water with diluted 3-4 g of potassium permanganate and 2-3 g of boric acid. The calculation is given on the 10-liter bucket, I have enough to process 5 m2 beds.
This procedure I repeat again three weeks later, but before this I must water the carrots with plain water. And that the carrot was not cramped, it was not intertwined with roots and did not give cracks, planting is thin, leaving between plants at least 5-7 cm.
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We have the same parsley, or rather carrot) What they didn’t do - it’s impossible to sell - they ask whether carrots from Chernobyl or something :))
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Thank you very much and we were always told that such a carrot is clumsy due to rains - if there are a lot of them