Growing irises and caring for flowers. Varieties and species.
Irises belong to perennial rhizome plants and comprise about 800 species growing on five continents, combining over 80 of thousands of varieties with a rich variety of shapes and colors. That is why this flower received such a name - iris (the flower of the goddess Irida), which means “rainbow” in Greek.
Many irises in nature are easily interbreeding with each other, and this allows achieving impressive results in breeding new varieties within a short time. This feature provides irises with close attention on the part of breeders and love from gardeners.
Iris is also known as the flower of the monastery gardens of the Middle Ages; flower of French kings, included in the coat of arms of France; favorite flower of the modernist era; a symbol of magic and mystery; a flower that inspired artists of all time and countries, from the author of the fresco on the island of Crete (II millennium BC) to the masters of the XXI century.
The rainbow gamut of colors and shades, bizarre forms of inflorescence of irises were widely used among the Slavic peoples in handicrafts, in fabrics, as well as in everyday life: home painting, utensils and clothes. Moreover, in Russia until the second half of the 19th century, irises were called differently - killer whales, in the shape of a leaf ("like a braid").
There are various classification systems of garden irises. If we take into account the variety of proportions, sizes, colors, different locations of the upper and lower lobes of the flower, it becomes clear why until now a single classification has not been worked out.
According to the classification used by Russian iris breeders, garden irises can be divided into bearded, including the group of aryl and arylbred, and non-human (the latter immediately divide into classes, and the former have an intermediate division). It looks like this:
- actually bearded (Properly Bearded);
- tall bearded (Tall Bearded);
- Median Bearded: Standard Median Bearded, Small-Flowered Median Bearded and Intermediate Median Bearded;
- Dwarf Bearded: Standard Dwarf Bearded and Miniature Dwarf Bearded;
- aryls and arylbreds (Arils and Arilbreds): non-aril-like Arilbreds, aryls and aryl-like arylbreds (Arils and Aril-like Arilbreds);
2. Irrigated Irises (Unbearded):
Siberian, Chrysographes, Japanese, Spuria, Louisiana, Californian and others).
The agrotechnics of varieties of irises are different.
One plant needs space, others can develop in crowded conditions, bearded irises do not tolerate burial, and beardless people do not suffer from this. So, if you decide to grow irises, you should know about some of the subtleties of handling them.
Preparing the soil for planting irises
Before proceeding with the preparation of the soil, it is necessary to choose a place for the future flowerbed. Irises prefer sunny places and when grown in the shade, they bloom very poorly. True, light partial shade in the afternoon is quite acceptable. Another "caprice", however, regarding exclusively bearded irises - they do not tolerate stagnation of water. So with a high level of groundwater, the place of the future flower bed needs to be drained. And in any case, if you lift the flowerbed by 10 — 15 cm, it will do them good.
Irises can be grown in one place without transplanting up to 10 years (hybrid - up to 5 years), but during this time they will grow greatly. And it is better to make the flowerbed more spacious initially, since in a limited space the flowers will lack nutrients, and the flowering intensity will decrease sharply.
These flowers are rather unpretentious and do not require special requirements for the composition of the soil, but the introduction of mineral and organic fertilizers, taking into account the composition of the soil (irrigated soils are best suited for weakly acidic or neutral soils) will not be superfluous. It is not recommended to add manure to the soil just before planting irises, to fertilize the soil better one year before it. Before planting, the soil is loosened, dug repeatedly with forks and a raised bed or flower bed, preferably with a slight inclination to the south.
In summer, the flower buds are laid in irises, from which the flowers will appear next year. And the best time for planting is considered to be the interval when the flowering period has already been completed, the flower bud has not yet become tied, but the new links in the rhizome have grown. The fact is that the landing unit
Iris (shoulder blade, layering, deletion, fan) is a one-year link of a rhizome with a diameter of 1 -2 cm and a mine of the order of 3 cm. It is carefully separated from the main plant with a knife, without digging the bush itself. In this case, the leaves must be shortened by one third of the length. The roots on the young link are in their infancy, and their active growth begins in a new place after 7 — 14 days. By the time the flower bud begins to lay, the layering is already firmly rooted. Summer landing in duration takes 14 days.
For the autumn planting of irises, plants with a flower bud already formed, no longer than 6 cm, a diameter of 2-3 cm and well-developed roots, are chosen. If you are lucky with the weather, then the plant will quickly take root and blossom the next year. The autumn planting period takes up to one and a half months. At the same time, it is necessary to calculate the time so that the plant has time to take root before the frosts come and freeze the soil.
The distance between plants during planting determines their future "growth": for high varieties (70 — 80 cm), the planting interval is 30 — 40 cm, for dwarf (20 — 40 cm) —15 — 20 cm. Planting depth determines the form: the rhizome is correct planted bearded iris should be at ground level, and beardless iris varieties are buried a few centimeters. Based on the length of the roots, they dig a landing hole necessary
depths. At the bottom of this fossa, a small mound should be built, a rhizome should be affirmed at the apex, and the roots carefully distributed along the slopes. Lightly pressing the seedling, fill it with a layer of earth and gently soil the soil. In this case, the leaf fan should remain vertical, even if it is smacked with the palm of your hand.
The plant is watered immediately after planting and after 3 — 5 days. Seedlings are best done if the sunny days are too hot.
Selection of planting material for irises
The commercially available planting material is most often a rhizome with clipped roots and leaves. In this condition, irises can be stored for one to two weeks without serious harm, while they can not be stored in cellophane bags or in wet material. When buying irises, pay attention to the size of the rhizome, since it contains the supply of nutrients necessary for the development of the plant, and, consequently, the larger it is, the better the plant will get used to and start to please you with its magnificent flowers. Pay attention also to the leaves, more precisely, to their number: in the presence of seven or more leaves, the probability is high that the plant will blossom in the spring of next year.
Iris seedlings need the same care as all other perennials: weed removal, timely loosening of the soil, seasonal top dressing, watering, treatment of diseases, pest control and the like.
One-year planting of irises in the late autumn must be well covered with foliage or pine lapnikom. In the beginning of spring, as soon as the snow comes down, this shelter is removed. The old plantations do not need shelter during the winter.
Fertilizing with fertilizers is carried out as soon as the top layer of the earth dries up after the snow melts. In this case, it is advisable not to overdo it with nitrogen - it can cause fatliquoring of irises. That is, their bushes will have many powerful leaves, but you will not wait for flowering. After applying mineral fertilizers to the soil, it should be loosened, gently deepening no more than 4-5 cm and trying not to damage the roots of the plants - they are almost on the surface.
All plants need preventive protection against diseases and pests. And experts recommend periodically spraying them with protective preparations, starting from the moment when the leaves reach 10 cm. You should also carefully examine the rhizomes when transplanting and if rot is found, carefully scrape this place. Last year's leaves are cut and burned in the spring - pests could remain in them.
When choosing plants for their garden, gardeners often compare different varieties of irises, which for a hundred and fifty years of breeding produced a huge amount. Let's consider some of them, including wild ones, which are most suitable for cultivation in Russian conditions.
The marsh iris (Iris pseudacorus) in the wild usually grows in river floodplains and along the banks of water bodies, while its seeds are spread by water, which it deftly uses to capture new habitats.
The extraordinary viability of this plant can be easily verified by planting it in its own area: seeds that fall in the fall from numerous seed boxes on the surface of the ridges give mass seedlings in spring. He even developed the properties of a typical weed: seedlings quickly grow with powerful roots in the soil and it is very difficult to tear plants from two to three months old out of the ground. You can deal with this in a simple way - remove the flower stalks at the end of flowering.
Until very recently, swamp irises did not cause much interest among breeders, since the main object of their study was bearded irises. They drew attention only in the second half of the XX century. The most remarkable marsh iris variety is Roy Davidson (Roy Davidson). It was created by an outstanding American breeder B. Hager. In addition to the flower, it is distinguished by wide glossy foliage, which is not damaged by thrips, often affecting other varieties of marsh iris. Unfortunately, being born in California, it is not hardy enough and requires winter hiding in the central and northwestern regions of Russia.
To grow iris marsh is not difficult. Seeds should be sown at 1,5-2 cm, so that after rain or watering they do not float to the surface. Cultured forms are propagated by parts of rhizomes. When the soil dries up, especially if it occurs during the flowering period, the decorative quality of the marsh iris is reduced. But the flooding it is able to withstand a long enough time, so it can be planted in a body of water to a depth of up to 30 cm. Among pests, the gladiolus tripe is more common, damaging the leaves.
For decorative purposes, iris marsh is best planted against a lawn or as framing of artificial ponds. This is the cheapest element of garden decoration, since iris is able to grow in one place for dozens of years without transplantation and special care, and planting material can be found in the wild on the shore of a nearby pond (though, in this case, there is no need to speak about any varieties ).
Siberian irises (Iris sibirica) include both species of the sibirica series and varieties obtained as a result of crossing. Siberian irises are the most practical and reliable culture for the regions of Russia that are cold and not too favorable for floriculture. In culture, they have been known since the 17th century as medicinal plants, and only in the 19th century acquired the status of ornamental plants. The first grade from which "it all began" was a white White Swirl.
A remarkable feature of Siberian irises is that their foliage is decorative throughout the season. Depending on the variety, the leaves of the bush can stand upright, fan out or have drooping tips, which adds variety to these plants. The shape of the leaves should be taken into consideration when planting; a bush with fountain-like foliage will require more space than with erect.
In general, Siberian irises are quite unpretentious perennials that can bloom in partial shade, although there are more capricious varieties that require planting in a sunny place. The most important thing is to initially plant the plants in a good, fertilized soil without adding lime. In the first year after planting, no fertilizer is needed. It is better to plant irises in the second half of August, then dividers winter better. But you can transplant and plant in the spring, especially within your garden. Starting from the second year, in the spring they make mineral top dressing with a complete set of microelements.
Before flowering, you can spend two more fertilizing - mineral and organic. Plants should be provided with water during the season. In autumn, not earlier than October, after severe freezing, which can kill foliage, you need to cut the leaves to a height of 15 cm. In the case of a protracted warm autumn, this work can be transferred to early spring. Of the diseases in Siberian irises, scorch and viral mosaic are especially dangerous, and of the pests of iris, the caterpillar of the scoop, slug, snail, leaf rodent, aphid, which can be either leaf or root, is very dirty. Ants can be a big problem, especially for small plants.
Elegant Siberian irises are a godsend for landscape designers. Some varieties bloom in the first year after planting, and the second may “skip”. Some species may bloom in the third or even fourth year. Siberian irises are unpretentious. They are not afraid of severe frosts without enough snow, they feel good in humid low places, they successfully withstand spring floods and, with all this, grow splendidly. Landscape architects around the world have long appreciated the plasticity of Siberian irises, as well as the beautiful shape of the bush, magnificent leaves and plentiful flowering. The number of peduncles in some varieties at the age of seven may approach 200.
See also: Siberian irises - planting and care
Bearded irises (Iris) - the most popular of garden irises. They got their name because of the outer petals (halyards), the bases of which are decorated with stripes of hairs, often distinguished by contrasting coloration against the general background of the flower. Bearded irises are divided into several main groups:
- miniature dwarfs - this class begins to bloom first. These are the lowest irises (up to 20 cm), descended from a wild fellow. Modern varieties have preserved the size of their ancestors and acquired fairly large flowers with wide open soaring halyards;
- standard dwarfs - bloom after miniature. They are slightly higher (up to 35 cm), so the possibility of their use in the garden is much wider, and the number of varieties and prevalence is greater. The popularity of dwarfs is also facilitated by the fact that they are quite unpretentious, grow rapidly and bloom profusely;
- medium-sized bearded irises up to 70 cm high replace dwarf flowering. They are divided into three classes: intermedia, dining rooms and curbs. The Intermedia class combines the earliest flowering varieties, and has the best properties - stability, abundant flowering and a variety of colors. This class is best suited for use in garden design. Table and border irises are less common. Dining rooms are small-flowered, but at the same time abundantly flowering varieties, convenient for arranging bouquets. The very last of these three categories are blooming irises, and the optimal field of their application is obvious from the name;
- tall bearded irises begin to bloom after a medium height. Their main advantage is that all varieties without exception grow in the open ground.
Bearded iris is suitable for a sunny place, preferably slightly elevated so that there is no stagnation of water. Moreover, it is better to create this elevation artificially even when planting, to subsequently exclude the influence of spring floods on the health of flowers. Roots of irises are loved when the sun warms them up.
Tall, bearded irises are less susceptible to infection by wet rot - especially in light, well-drained soils. If your site has clay soil, dilute it with a significant amount of sand. At the end of summer and autumn they can not be watered.
Dry weather at this time will stop the growth of shoots and provide iris better conditions for wintering. It is not necessary to cover them for the winter. It should be remembered that bearded irises can be affected by rust, heterosporiosis, gray rot, fusariosis of bulbous iris, dashed mosaic virus, decay, thrips, slugs, onion murmur, root onion mite and nematodes.
For a century and a half the breeders of the whole world are working tirelessly to create new varieties of bearded irises. At the moment more than 30000 varieties are known, and this list is constantly updated with new variants.
Naturally, it’s very difficult to choose from all this variety - when you see photos on the pages of catalogs, your eyes literally “run up”. The variety of modern varieties of irises is amazing, tremulous and at the same time majestic, they are highly appreciated by many gardeners for their beauty.
In conclusion, I would like to quote the words of the artist-florist and passionate lover of irises Irina Fedorovna Stepanova: “Iris is inexhaustible. Each new variety brings a surprise - either an unprecedented shade, then weightlessness or heavy folding of the petals, often decorated with a border or an intricate pattern. This plant, as it were, combines different types of art.
Reference by topic: Wintering irises in an apartment
The plastic lines of the petals, directed upward inside and falling down or soaring outside, give the flower a sculptural character. And how nature decides its color! Only she is capable of violent imagination, where contrasting colors are boldly bold or light watercolor shades are carefully mixed. Finally, the finest graphics of lines, dots, strokes, dots. "The iris flower organically completes a clear composition of straight, sturdy peduncles with spiky buds and a fan of strict xiphoid leaves (a symbol of the suffering of the mother’s mother’s heart)."
Variety of varieties of irises
Active work on the hybridization of irises began in Europe in the middle of the XIX century. The result of the crossing of German iris (Iris germanka), pale iris (Iris pallida), dwarf iris (Iris pumila) and other natural species was the emergence of a new group of varieties, currently taking first place in popularity - bearded irises. This group includes irises with large creeping rhizomes, xiphoid leaves and magnificent flowers of the most amazing colors.
The lower perianth lobes of these irises are decorated with a pretty "beard" - thanks to her they got their name.
In nature, representatives of the Iris family (Iridaceae) are found on all continents. The genus iris includes more than 250 species, and the number of varieties is amazing - their count goes to tens of thousands.
Aromatic flower bed
Some varieties of bearded irises can without exaggeration be attributed to the best fragrant plants for the garden. They can smell like vanilla, chocolate, citruses, honey, lilac, violet or allspice. Sweet, spicy, subtle or intense - the variety of their aromas is truly enormous. Such flowers are good to plant next to the gazebo or terrace - where you like to relax.
Bearded irises will please you from year to year with their flowering, if you take care of their correct planting. They are quite hardy plants, but they can show themselves in all their glory only under suitable conditions.
Advice to the Florist
The very first ones usually bloom low-growing varieties, from 25 to 36 cm. These plants can be planted along the edge of the paths, in the foreground of the flower beds, they look great on rocky slides. In June, there comes a line of medium-sized irises (37-70 cm). High varieties (more than 70 cm) bloom from June to the first decade of July.
Place for planting
The place for planting bearded irises should be sunny and protected from strong winds. These plants completely can not stand stagnant
waterlogging, heavy and acidic soils. If the conditions on your site are not suitable, try to correct the situation in advance. Clear the place for planting irises from weeds, if the earth on your site is clayey - remove the top layer of soil, put drainage, and sprinkle loose soil on top, with the addition of coarse sand and peat. So that the water does not stagnate, raise the level of the flower garden. On acidic soils, liming is necessary. The soil should not be too nutritious - an excess of organics provokes the development of various fungal and bacterial diseases in bearded irises.
Regular watering is required for these plants only at the beginning of summer, during a period of active growth and budding. After flowering, excess moisture is not only not needed, but even harmful.
Single iris plantations
Bearded irises do not like neighborhood with aggressively growing perennials. They look great in solitary landings. Planted in a large group, irises always attract attention - do not be afraid that such a flower garden will be boring and monotonous. In mixed plantings, spring bulbs, peonies, daylilies, perennial poppies and lilies will be good partners for irises.
Irises grow well. Strongly thickened, old plants with time begin to bloom worse. The growth rate of different varieties varies, but, on average, irises are divided every four years. They best tolerate this procedure during the active growth of the roots-through 1,5-2 weeks after flowering.
In order for irises to bloom profusely and grow strong, they need to be properly fed. These plants do not tolerate fresh manure. Best of all, they respond to the introduction of complex mineral fertilizers for flowering plants. The first time the irises are fertilized in the spring.
The second fertilizing is carried out during bud formation. The third time they are fed three weeks after flowering.
Advice to the Florist
Bearded irises perfectly tolerate the heat.
In dry, warm soil, their rhizomes mature well. Such plants almost do not get sick and perfectly winter. They can be planted on sunny slopes, where other flowers do not always work out. In such areas, water does not stagnate even during prolonged rains, during the summer the plants receive a lot of heat and light - what irises need.
Division of irises - progress
1. Bushes irises should be carefully excavated entirely garden forks.
2. Carefully inspect the rhizome - if it has rotten areas, remove them.
3.To divide the plant into several parts, use a clean sharp knife.
4. Each delenka must have at least one fan of leaves and a formed rhizome.
5.To make the plant take root easier after transplanting, the leaves are pruned. Cutting height - about 15 cm.
6.If you can not immediately plant the separated plants in a new location, do not put them in water and do not pack in film. It does not matter, if the rhizomes get a little dry, the excess moisture for them is much more dangerous.
7. Do not plant irises closely. The distance between planting dwarf varieties 30-40, medium and high - 50 cm.
8. It is very important to remember 5 that bearded irises do not tolerate deepening, the “back” of the rhizome must be level with the surface of the soil when planting.
LOUISIAN IRIS - GUEST FROM AMERICA
Compared to tall, bearded irises, Louisiana ones are less affected by diseases and enjoy beautiful leaves all season. These irises belong to the group of beardless, they are water and moisture-loving.
Like most irises, Louisiana prefer sunny places and slightly acidic soils (pH 6,5 and below), which contributes to their better growth and flowering. They can grow both in water (in warmer regions) and in well-moistened soil near a reservoir. They reveal their amazing beauty and form of flowers after 2 weeks after bearded and Siberian and 2 weeks before the flowering of Japanese irises. Thus, thanks to these exotic beauties, you can create a garden of continuous flowering (dwarfs, tall with a beard, Siberian, marsh, versicolor, Louisiana, Spuria, Japanese), fragrant from late April to almost mid-July, depending on weather conditions. About transplant
They should be transplanted in late summer or early September, when the hot days are over. If you do this before flowering or late autumn, next year they will not bloom.
Louisiana iris can also be successfully grown in pots with a diameter of at least 36 cm. The mixture for filling the container is garden soil + good (mature, loose) compost or humus. The pot should stand in the water so that it covers it by about 5-7 cm. And so as not to wash the soil, pebbles are poured around (drainage).
Planting depth - about 5 cm, in water - no more than 20 cm. The distance between plants should be at least 50-60 cm, since they quickly grow to the sides (per season by 12-15 cm).
These irises do not withstand drying out of the roots. Before planting, they are soaked in water for 10-12 hours. When planting in the ground on the shore of a pond, humus or compost and 3 tablespoon should be added to the pit. superphosphate. Try to avoid lime (calcium) in the soil.
If irises are not planted in a pond, you need to water them regularly so that the earth does not dry out. Mulch the surface of the soil with peat (do not use sawdust, pine bark or mowed grass).
After flowering, flower stalks are cut, and at the end of autumn, leaves at a height of 3-7 see.
They feed in early spring with fertilizer (NPK 15: 15: 15).
Water well, especially before and during flowering. But irises should winter in dry soil! That is, plantings should be covered with straw or dry peat and covered with a film on top to avoid rainfall.
Potted plants are brought to the basement for the winter, where they stand until spring.
© Author: Alla CHERNOGUZ
Cloud of aromas in the garden
Irises are my favorite flowers. Not a single blooming corner created in my garden is complete without these beauties. They do not bloom for long, but probably no other plant has such a palette of colors. An incredible combination, contrasts, brightness or, conversely, softness, pastel shades - all these are the advantages of irises. But still these majestic flowers emit an unusual smell. Each flower has its own.
Copatonic, for example, smells like chocolate. And growing shrubbery bushes, creating a bouquet of various aromas, give a romantic mood.
Irises love sunny places. I plant them shallow, otherwise they may not bloom. I distribute the iris fan to the north, so that the sun shines on the "back", it should remain above him. The first time after planting I maintain moderate humidity, and then - depending on weather conditions. Irises are quite drought-tolerant plants, but during flowering, so that it lasts longer, I water the plants often.
As soon as in the spring irises begin to wake up, I feed them with urea (1 tablespoon / 10 liters of water).
These flowers do not tolerate fresh organic matter (which I did not know when I began to grow them, and fed them with manure). It turns out that such top dressing can provoke rotting of the roots, irises begin to dry, get sick, and flowering becomes sparse. A weakened plant provokes an attack of various pests. Now I feed the irises with Fertica Lux according to the instructions before flowering and after, so that it is good next year.
I love big bushes, but if they thicken, then the sprouts begin to creep onto each other in the center, and the plant suffers, the flowers grow smaller, the peduncles become smaller. Therefore, it is important to divide the irises on time. It is better to do this immediately after flowering (at the end of July) - this is how a powerful plant forms in winter. The optimal division rate is once every 4-5 years.
You can’t buy good varietal irises in mazinas; they can be purchased only in private collections. And it’s even more insulting when a young bush blooms right away, and then dies. To prevent this, in the first year of flowering, you need to cut the flower arrow so that the iris gains strength and plant flower buds for the next year. I was convinced by bitter experience: it is better to wait a year than to lose a flower.
I cut the foliage only in the winter.
© Author: Natalia PROKHORSKAYA, Togliatti. Author photo
JULY - IT'S TIME TO SHARE AND PLANT IRISES
Blooming irises delight in color and petal shape. It is not surprising that these beauties - bearded, Siberian, Japanese - certainly want to settle in your garden. And the best time for planting and transplanting is from the end of July to September 5-10. Choose delenki with 3-4 leaves (cut 1 / 2-2 / 3). Siberian and Japanese irises must be "alive" (not dried out), and their roots must be moist.
Seedlings with many leaves can bloom next year, but they take root and overwinter much worse. The planting material must not be wrapped in polyethylene.
FEATURES OF VARIETIES
Modern irises come to us from the USA, Canada and Australia. Many of them need adaptation within 2-3 years. At the same time, some varieties fall out in winter, others do not bloom - there is not enough heat. For example, the iris Progressive Attitude has never bloomed in our country for 12 years. Or plants do not form peduncles every year, we call them "difficult": Edith Wolford, Neon Rainbow, Kilt Lilt, etc.
Irises prefer sunny places - southwest, southeast or southern slopes. In a low, damp area, they are planted in raised flower beds.
The soil is drained garden. Sand is added to the oily loam. Excess humus leads to poor flowering and poor wintering (the largest specimens die). When planting in the hole, it is enough to add a handful of humus and nitroammofosk (according to the instructions).
Dolomite flour or lime must be added to acidic soil (the plant does not tolerate it!). I advise you to prophylactically add ash annually.
Before planting, the hole is generously spilled with water and the cut is immediately planted, sprinkled with soil, without deepening the root collar (in I. bearded, a third of the rhizome should remain above the surface, while the fan is oriented south). Remember: at a deeper depth, the plants are strongly oppressed.
© Author: Ivan NAUMENKO, iris grower, Novosibirsk
WITH LOVE AND CARE FOR IRISES
Do you like irises? I love them! For those who have failed in growing, I want to remind you of the rules for planting this rainbow flower.
First, choose a suitable area in the garden for it. It should be sunny, with a comfortable exposure to admire the blooming curtains. It is important that this place is above the main ground level, especially on heavy soils - it is necessary to exclude stagnant water. If this is not possible, make grooves along which it will go in spring and in downpours.
Irises are planted in August.
They are able to grow in any soil acidity, but prefer alkaline. I sprinkle some lime and compost on my plot. Then I dig it up.
Even if the soil is sandy, it is better to add a handful of sand under the rhizome. This will protect the iris from waterlogging. Frost for him is not as terrible as excess water.
These plants do not like deep planting, in which they spend a long time trying to "get out" outside. With a strong deepening, they may die.
In the first and second watering, I add a weak solution of potassium permanganate. In the future, it is necessary to moisten only as the soil dries out. I advise you to water the "doubtful" planting material with the addition of a rooting stimulant (for example, from the Chisty List company).
During planting, I do not apply fertilizers, but only compost. The first time I feed in October - I give a small amount of potassium monophosphate (half the dose recommended on the package). In the first autumn of planting irises, it is advisable to treat with fungicides against gray rot and rust. From experience, I can say that it is better to use systemic preparations or tank mixtures that combine contact and systemic fungicides, as well as fertilizers and insecticides. I use all drugs according to the instructions.
© Author: Larisa KHARITONOVA, iris grower
IRISES FOR BEGINNERS - VIDEO
© Author N. Akinshina, E. Limonchenko
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Irises are bearded and not bearded: planting, care and varieties
- German Iris (photo) - planting and care
- Wintering irises in an apartment
- Bearded irises - growing care and some varieties
- Dwarf bearded irises (photo) planting and care: questions and answers
- Irises in questions and answers: growing, planting and care
- Irises Siberian (photo): cultivation and care
- Siberian irises: varieties, planting and care
- How I grow bearded irises on the site - planting and dividing
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