13 Review (s)

  1. F.Satyrin, Novomoskovsk

    Several years ago we planted fruit trees, chose suitable for our climate and are resistant to diseases. But last year we noticed on the trees a lot of oblong outgrowths, similar to small shells. What is it and is it not dangerous for the garden?

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      Your problem is similar to a commoid shield. It feeds on plant juices. Breeding can completely cover branches and trunks. The damaged bark gradually dies off, leaves fall off, branches wither. Trees are weakened, they lose their frost resistance, they are more easily affected by other pests and diseases.
      For the destruction of scabs early in the spring use the drug Prefilaktin. Spraying is carried out at an average daily temperature of 4 ° C. At this time, insects are vulnerable, because are in hibernation. One active ingredient of the drug covers the trees with a thin film, blocking the entry of air to the pests, and the second destroys them. The drug is also active against other wintering pests, such as coffins, leaf rollers, aphids, etc.
      E. KARPACHEVA, agronomist scientist

      Reply
  2. Galina KRAEVA, Ulyanovsk

    Has planted on a summer residence some juniper, but they have transferred the second wintering very badly. When I came to the dacha in the spring, I discovered that in many places the needles were puffy and covered with a grayish coating and black dots. Then I decided to ask specialists in the nursery, where I usually buy garden crops, what could be the reason. We came to the conclusion that I planted junipers too close and in the thaw period, in conditions of high humidity, the fungus of brown snow mold developed.
    I uprooted one juniper - it was severely affected by the disease and, moreover, it was located just between the remaining two, creating a thickening. Two junipers suffered much less. I removed all the affected branches and fallen needles from them. Then she sprayed the plants with Bordeaux liquid, and the soil was generously poured with a fungicide solution. Spraying with Bordeaux liquid was repeated every 10 days for a month. In addition, in the summer I fed the plants several times with complex mineral fertilizers (according to the instructions) in order to increase their resistance to diseases.
    Of course, junipers were restored for a long time, but now they look pretty decent.

    Reply
  3. Evgenia KAPITOVA, the city of Smolensk

    It happens that, among the summer on apple and pear trees, branches suddenly dry up, while the leaves and fruits do not fall off, but remain hanging dead.

    There may be several reasons. If the bark of the affected branch is covered with shallow shaggy cracks and small dark tubercles, brown spots, drops of gum are visible nearby - this is cytosporosis. The disease is caused by fungi and quickly captures not only the bark, but also the deep layers of wood. The secretions of the mycelium are toxic to the tree, and the thickening gum clogs the conductive channels. Ripening spores are carried by wind and water, and when they hit other trees, they begin to multiply on any damage to the bark, quickly penetrating inside.
    It will not be possible to save the affected branches. They will have to be cut with a stock of healthy wood, immediately taken out of the garden and burned. Cut the sections with a solution of copper or iron vitriol (30-40 g for 1 L of water) or burn with the flame of the burner.
    After the fall of the leaves and in the spring, before opening the buds, all trees should be sprayed for prevention with 5% solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid. Such treatment will be useful for other fungal diseases: scab, fruit rot (moniliose), powdery mildew, leaf spot, etc.

    An important element of prevention is the protection of the cortex from sunburn, frost, and aging. Trunks and skeletal branches in spring and autumn should be tightly whitened. Disease resistance is higher in "well-fed" trees, so you need to regularly feed, and in drought - to water. Autumn potash and phosphorus top dressing is especially important, which ensures high-quality aging of wood.

    Reply
  4. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    On clear winter days, visit the garden to remove dead fruits from the trees. If they are blackened, wrinkled, with a rough surface, this is a sure sign of the disease with black cancer. If the fruits are black, mummified, but the surface is shiny, this is obviously fruit rot.
    In the winter, when the branches are viewed very well, they can be found curled dried leaves, covered with cobwebs. These are winter nests of hawthorn, golden-eared and other pests. On high snow, it is not difficult to remove them, and then burn them.
    During thaws, you can uproot and burn the currant bushes, severely affected by currant buds. If only individual branches are affected, cut and burn them.

    Mite-infected kidneys are clearly visible - they are more rounded and large, resemble small cabbage heads, pests overwinter in them. A tick is also dangerous because it is a carrier of terry currants.

    Reply
  5. Elena Rychikhina, city of Ivangorod

    Powdery mulberry is most often affected by figs, orchids, azaleas, citrus, Kalanchoe.

    But other plants from him, too, are not insured. You will recognize this pest in a thick white raid, from afar resembling hoarfrost or scraps of cotton wool. These are isolations of insect females, which are a favorable environment for black fungus. Other signs of the disease are a pinched look, withered and deformed leaves, buds and shoots, white patches in the soil. Often, infection occurs through a soil containing eggs or larvae. So always treat the soil with hot steam before use.

    If the lesion is severe, it will be difficult to save the plant. And at the early stage, triple treatment with a soap solution is effective (you can use "green soap" - 10 g per 1 liter of water).

    Reply
  6. Roza Akhatyevna

    This year on the leaves of peach, nectarine and currant of all kinds appeared tubercles. The foliage was not amazed at all, but from the top to the bottom of the plants it gradually crouched and turned yellow. I could not think of anything else, how to tear off all such leaves and bumps and destroy them. How, how and when can I save my garden from such an affliction? And I'm wondering whether any of the cottagers has found an effective and quick way to get rid of scab on potatoes? You can, of course, sow lupine, change the crop rotation and plant only varieties resistant to this disease, but this is too long and tedious. Especially since I was addicted to such a change of varieties and got elected to the fact that I stayed with potatoes, which really does not suffer from scab, but it is also of little use in food: you can fry and cook, but there is no taste of normal (and if you weld in uniform, in general the feeling is as if you were chewing on paper). After that I abruptly moved to plant delicious potatoes, but I had to reconcile myself to the fact that on all new varieties that began to grow, a scab appeared.

    Reply
  7. Alina Golovatova, Moscow

    How to destroy lichens
    I bought a summer residence, I first examined the garden. It is quite old, but beautiful. True, many trees have found lichens. How to deal with it, and whether it is necessary to remove them from the trees?

    Reply
    • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

      The growth of lichens on trees leads to a decrease in yield and a deterioration in the growth of the tree. In addition, the abundance of lichens creates an excellent environment for the development of pests and their larvae.
      it is better to control lichens not in the spring, but in the autumn, after the end of the leaf fall. If lichens have struck the whole tree, it is better not to regret, but to uproot it and burn it. The same is true for the affected branches. If the infection is not very strong, in the fight against lichen will help copper or iron vitriol and a wooden scraper. For the treatment of trees from lichens, a solution is needed: in 1 l of water add 2 st. l. vitriol. Lichen on the branches and trunks richly moisten the solution and leave for an hour or two. Then gently remove the build-ups with a wooden scraper.

      Reply
  8. E.V. BOYKOVA

    Looking at the spring bushes of black currant, you can find a lot of swollen buds in the kidneys with normal shape and size. I hasten to disappoint you: on your currant settled bud. Do not try to see it with the naked eye, these parasites are so small (their length is up to 0,2 mm), that you can consider them only under a magnifying glass. Many gardeners spray the bushes of the currant from the mite only 1 times, at the beginning of the swelling of the kidneys, but I assure you that by this method you will never cope with this pest. Having overwintered in the kidney, the females lay eggs. From the eggs, after a while, larvae appear, which will become a new generation of adult mites. Pests penetrate the newly pawned buds (early in the season) and continue to successfully reproduce.
    The exit of ticks to the surface begins during budding. At this moment, the main treatment of currant bushes from the parasite is needed.
    Those kidneys in which the mite settles, become barren-they not only will not open, but flower stalks on which the future harvest of berries should be formed will not be released. Over the years (without destroying the tick), almost all the kidneys on the shoot are infected, and therefore you lose a crop of valuable berries.
    In addition, passing from one plant to another, the tick promotes the spread of mycoplasma disease - the terry nature of the flower of black currant. At the first signs of the disease, I advise you to immediately remove the bushes from the site and be sure to burn them.

    Reply
  9. Sergey Dmitrievich Sumin. Moscow

    We treat frosts
    Examine the trunks of all trees, including ornamentals, giving special attention to young plants. Due to the current extreme winter, frost cracks could form on them. They often appear on hardwoods (fruit trees, lime trees, maple, chestnut, ashberry and others), but conifers could also suffer. Trees with frost cracks, not healed in time, are weakened, dry out. The cracks must be healed by covering the garden with varnish. In the future weakened trees pay maximum attention: feed phosphate-potassium fertilizers, water regularly and in time treat against pests and diseases.

    Reply
  10. Semenov

    As a rule, treatment of berry bushes in order to protect them from insect pests is carried out in several stages.
    Before the swelling of the kidneys (early April)
    To protect plants from the possible development of fungal infections, as well as to deprive starving pests that have overwintered in the soil, the ability to regale young shoots and greenery, it is necessary to clean the garden plantings. To do this, all the foliage needs to be scraped and destroyed. In addition, under the plantations of currants, raspberries and gooseberries, it is mandatory to dig the soil.
    During this period, all berry bushes are subject to inspection, after which all dry and damaged by insects or diseases twigs and shoots should immediately be cut and burned.
    If you notice swollen buds on the currant, it's a signal that your plants
    was chosen by the tick. In the case of a strong pest population, entire branches are subjected to removal.
    To neutralize insects after hibernation, as well as pathogens, berry bushes and soil under and around them, it is recommended to spray with a solution of nigrafen, prepared at the rate of 0.2 kg per 10 l of water. If it becomes necessary to perform treatment exclusively against diseases, it is recommended to use 10% solution of copper sulfate or 30% ferrous sulfate solution.
    In the phase of bud opening (end of April)
    Against pests on gooseberries and currants spraying with 10% solution of carbophos is applied. To destroy the mite on the currant can use 10% solution of colloidal sulfur.
    To prevent the exit of the fire and sawfly from the soil under the plantings of currants and gooseberries, no later than 3 May the trunks of bushes are sheltered with such materials as roofing paper, foil or roofing, sprinkling the edges of the earth, and remove the shelter only after flowering.
    To prevent the strawberry-raspberry weevil from entering during budding, the raspberry is sprayed with an 10% solution of carbophos, and also 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid as a prophylaxis against the onset of disease.
    After the flowering of currant and gooseberry to neutralize the fire, the soil must be regularly loosened both under the bushes and between them. In addition, all damaged fruits are removed.
    After harvesting of gooseberries and currants, all bushes are treated with 10% solution of carbofos or 10% solution of triphos. To prevent the development of fungal diseases, plants are sprayed with 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid. The same goes for raspberries.
    As soon as berry crops are thrown off the foliage, it is recommended to rake and burn the entire recession to destroy pests that leave for the winter in the soil, and dig the soil under the plants and between the rows.
    At the same time, bushes of currants and gooseberries against fire should be bored with a layer of soil up to 15 cm, and in raspberries, in order to protect it from pests, it is necessary to cut and destroy all damaged and otppos.

    Reply
  11. Anna Posokhina

    thank you very much!

    Reply

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