Pests and diseases of trees and shrubs - how to detect at the very beginning
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How to detect signs of disease in shrubs and garden trees at the very beginning - as early as possible?
On the branches and trunks of trees and shrubs, in the spring, before the bud opening, wintering stages of pests can be detected.
On the bark of tree trunks and skeletal branches it is necessary to look for the presence of some species of leafworms that hibernate in the egg stage (the laying eggs of the rosewood have the form of flat brownish-gray lozenges of round shape up to 10 mm, the ruffle-pile leaflets look like lime sprays and are clearly visible on dark crust). In each clutch there are from 10-20 to 150 and more eggs. They can also be carefully cut with a thin piece of bark and destroyed.
Similarly, it is possible to treat other insect eggs that have been found.
On the trunks and thick branches under the flaking scales of the bark, one can see black shiny eggs of some species aphids. On pines such eggs can be located on needles. The aphids laid on plants (as well as other insects and herbivorous mites) are very small, so it is convenient to use a magnifying glass with 4-fold magnification during the examination.
On the shoots of last year, sometimes skeletal branches, in many conifers, galls similar to small cones created by relatives of aphids can be found - Hermes (spruce fir, spruce-larch, yellow, late, etc.). Many try to cut old dry galls in the spring - this is a pointless exercise, since these galls were abandoned by pests in June-July last year.
If aphids and hermes are detected prophylactically at the beginning of leaf and needles blooming in mid-April - early May (depending on weather conditions), the plants must be sprayed with one of the preparations: Actellik, Fufanon, Decis, Inta-Vir, Komandor, Golden Spark, Actara in accordance with directions on the labels. It is advisable to alternate the drugs used in the future.
On the bark of tree branches and trunks, gray-brown, narrow, elongated, 3-4 mm long can be found, expanding, slightly curved shields to the rear end are comma-like scutes - apple (damages plants from 34 families) or pine (pine, less often other conifers). If you separate the fresh shield from the cortex, densely laid white eggs are found under them.
See also: Pests of trees photo
On plants from 17 families there are flat light gray or sometimes even almost white guards, under which are located purple eggs. These settlements willow of European shield. Scabies and other species are found singly - juniper, spruce, brown, etc.
Also, a fresh look at the branches and trunks of trees, often in the area of old frostbites, dry bones, necrotic areas or cancer wounds, can be found in the settlements of false scythes. Females fake scrapers lay eggs under their own body, which at the end of egg laying turns into a hard, brown, fairly large tubercle 3,5-6 long, 2,5-4 mm in width and up to 4 mm, filled with a mass of oval yellowish eggs. The most commonly encountered acacia false-shattering, damaging up to 130 species of plants.
Together with it on different plants there are spruce, tuya, yew, birch, chiligovaya and other falsities.
On separate branches or trunks, sometimes visible are flakes of "cotton wool" adhering to the bark. On closer inspection, it appears that the white fluffy pad inside contains eggs of pinkish color and a round, dark brown scales are attached to it.
This is the dead body of a female pads, or feltsmanwho made a protective device for posterity with the help of secretions from special glands - an egg sac (ovisac). Or did you find leftovers mealybug (spruce, juniper, maple, etc.). In the latter case, the egg sac is similar to an elongated white narrow roller.
If single colonies of scale insects, false shields, pads and earthworms are found, cutting and burning of populated branches is recommended; for mass population, spraying before budding or with a green cone is recommended using preparation No. 30 (liquid paraffin). This treatment will also hit masonry mites, aphids and leaf-eating pests that have wintered in the crown and on the trunk.
If in the spring on the trunks of the trees you have found traces of intense taring, resin funnels, borax on the bark and at the base of the trunk, holes of different sizes and in different numbers, gum, which means that somebody from your area stem pests.
See also: Treatment and spraying of the garden from pests
The struggle with them is difficult and depends on the correct definition of the pest species, which only a specialist can do.
Their appearance is easier to prevent, removing from the territory of the site sick plants or their parts (cutting out dry branches, removing deadwood, wind and wind, snow and snow-breaking trees, uprooting stumps), but these measures may be unsuccessful if your site A species that inhabits absolutely healthy and useless trees (like, for example, a large spruce beetle).
You can sprinkle crowns and trunks of trees yourself with drugs Arrivo, Carbofos-500, Decis, Karate, but without knowing the exact biology of the species and the time when it is most vulnerable, your efforts are likely to go to waste.
DISEASES OF BUSHES AND TREES
Necrosis and cancers are most often detected by changes in the color or structure of the cortex (cracking, peeling, ulceration, tumors, wounds), as well as by manifested spores (large dark or brightly colored tubercles).
Necrosis areas, ulcers and wounds should be treated similarly to treatment of frostbites. Strongly affected branches are desirable to remove and destroy. If the size of the necrotic area is small, it is possible to save the branch by smearing the place where the pathogen is infested with copper-containing preparations (copper sulfate, copper oxychloride, etc.).
Finally, with the descent of snow, it is possible to detect the settling of coniferous plants with a snow shute or a brown shute of coniferous species (snow mold). Strongly infected branches, which are also easier to remove, are covered with a thick layer of dirty white or brown mycelium. Over time, it disappears, which many perceive as a sign that the disease has gone by itself. Fungi penetrate into plant tissues and external mycelium they do not need.
With a low degree of infection, you can try spraying with Bai-cholon, Fundazol, Topsin-M, sulfur-containing preparations (Kumulus and others).
Reference by topic: Rot in plants - how to fight?
PREVENTION OF DISEASES AND PESTS IN THE GARDEN
Even if during the inspection of the plants you did not find anything that would raise concerns, it is necessary to carry out several measures aimed at worsening the living conditions of pests and pathogens on the site. It is necessary to rake, burn, take out from the site or punch last year's fallen leaves (if you did not do this last fall before snowing) - harmful organisms often winter in the litter.
The same goal pursues the digging of the soil in the trunks: needle-and leaf-eating, as well as miners and gall-forming sawflies, walnut-trees, gall midges often hibernate in the soil of the near-crop circles of plants.
Digging should be carried out carefully, so as not to damage the roots, especially if the root system is superficial (as, for example, in spruce, in the near-trunk circle of which the ordinary spruce sawworm hibernates).
At the same time, it is recommended to clean trunks and skeletal branches from mosses and lichens growing on them, which in themselves do not pose a danger, but, while retaining moisture, create conditions for the conservation and reproduction of parasitic fungi and bacteria.
Clean them with a brush or handle with a brush moistened with an 3-5% solution of copper or iron vitriol.
Until budding buds on individual plants, it is possible to carry out sanitary pruning, in which the shrunken branches are deliberately cut out, even if they do not carry obvious signs of pest infestation or infection by plant pathogens (they might not yet manifest themselves).
Cut need not only a dry area, but also to capture at least 2-3 cm of the healthy part of the branch. Sections that have a width of 1 cm and more must be disinfected and sealed (as mentioned earlier).
All work related to pruning trees is carried out in dry weather, the plant remains immediately destroyed.
Treatment from pests in the spring
Spring wakes everyone up. Everyone wakes up. Including pests.
And as you know, prevention is much better than treatment - and a minimum, and health savings. While the enemies are still drowsy and weak, it's time to strike a preemptive strike on them. But before grabbing poisons, we will provide the elementary agrotechnical measures with a regime that is most comfortable for plants, after all, being healthy, they will largely cope with their misfortunes.
Spring processing of the soil, especially its digging, "bury" a significant part of the pests to a depth with which they can no longer escape. And for the surviving enemies, an almost insurmountable obstacle will be the hunting belt, which is put on the trunk of a tree or a branch of a shrub. There are many ways of realizing this simple and effective reception.
One of the simple and effective techniques will be applying to the trunk of the ring (width 2-3 cm) of the non-drying rat glue, where the pests rising to the budding buds will successfully stick.
- Timely and correct pruning not only helps the plant to form the crown: pests that winter on branches (clutches of aphids, nests of the Kalinidae, etc.) are also destroyed.
- The same can be said about cleaning the old bark and whitewashing trunks and skeletal branches.
- If the currant bushes have globular non-budding buds - this is the winter apartment of the kidney mite: do not be too lazy to pick them and burn them.
- Before cultivating the soil under the plantings, we carefully remove the leaf litter, which was not picked up in the fall, - this is the "wintering" of the fungal spores of our garden, especially scab and mildew.
When we introduce fertilizers, we remember that phosphorus and potassium, as well as some trace elements (boron, manganese) contribute to the health of plants, and the excess of much needed nitrogen encourages the growth of vegetative organs, to the detriment of the general immunity of the green pet.
Spring is a time when we want something new. We visit exhibitions, garden centers and nurseries and we will buy something.
Here it is more attentive: as a free bonus you can drag uninvited guests into the garden (buying, for example, a begonias box of ever-flowering, you will surely get at least a dozen snails in the load, and what an animal it is in the garden, you know!).
Even the material from a large proven nursery is not guaranteed to be clean from pests: follow each plant in an industrial greenhouse with an area of several hundred square meters!
Many "savages" (for example, mountain ash, bird cherry) decorating plots, are distributors or intermediate dwellings of some fungal diseases of our cultivated plants.
It is absolutely unacceptable to have a close neighbor to gooseberries and barberries, and also caragans: the latter are strongly affected by powdery mildew, which will readily migrate to gooseberry. This same sin oaks, especially the young.
And do not forget about the birds. A dub in the bush of a Kalina with a brood of tits or wagtails will completely clear the plant of the pernicious leaf beetle without any chemistry!
And so it is tempting on the store shelving to choose a drug from everything that will work immediately! .. But. as is known from the old song, dynamite does not help in the fight against cockroaches. Chemistry should be used after the fact, pre-zirovanno and purposefully. Do not think that if the drug will save from aphids, then the caterpillars will work. A universal remedy for all diseases is only a flamethrower. Although something you can advise.
If in the previous season your garden was weighed down by pests, two-fold early-spring processing of trees and bushes with nitrafen, and after harvesting the leaves and processing the soil, spraying the land under urea plantings will greatly reduce summer "rodents" and "suckers" on plants.
We process the garden when the average daily temperature confidently overrides the "plus", in the morning or evening in windless weather, always with the observance of individual protection measures. If the garden was healthy last season, it is not worthwhile to deal with processing "so that it does not get sick any more." And in the season we are working on the fact.
Who exactly eats your garden-garden? Determined? And only after that we go to the store and buy a specific "treat" for a specific enemy.
The variety of plant protection products is so great today that only their enumeration will take more than a dozen pages, so we will limit ourselves only to general considerations.
- When choosing a drug, pay attention to the hazard class: you will be healthier!
- Convenient in the use of preparations of systemic action-penetrating into the plant, they make it inedible for the pest, leaving the fruits edible for us.
- Watch for bans on old drugs: before DDT was used almost instead of salt, now it is known that this rubbish is very poisonous for warm-blooded.
So the thoughtful use of agrotechnical techniques and competent use of pesticides will save your garden from diseases, and you from the functions of the reanimator!
How to deal with snails and slugs
Most often we do not see these mollusks, but only guess their presence on some grounds. For example, a corroded leaf of cabbage, a salad or a shiny trail on the ground, left after an overnight attempt on your garden.
The most common in the gardens are the grape snail and tilled slug. Their diet includes more than 150 species of cultivated plants. And they eat not only the leaves and flowers, but also root crops. And from the mucus left by them, the fruits rot.
Despite the fact that snails and slugs are called sanitary attendants of the garden, their number still need to be reduced, since they are also the carriers of helminths, dangerous for pets.
With snails and slugs you can fight in several ways: mechanical, environmental and chemical.
Mechanical - a collection of manually and using traps. Since mollusks like dampness, coolness and beer, it is very easy for them to prepare a trap. Lay the old bags or boards moistened with beer between the rows, leave until evening, and then collect slugs hidden under them. Destroy them with a salt or soap solution. Ecological - to attract to your site natural enemies slugs, for example, toads and hedgehogs. For toads, you can equip a small pond, and hedgehogs are easy to attract dog food. Birds are good assistants in the fight against snails. Encourage them to eat in winter on your site, and they will do it in the summer. Help in this feeding troughs and birdhouses.
Chemical is an extreme method when nothing else is left. Often in the fight against slugs and snails they use iron sulfate or a metal guide. These chemicals attract and destroy mollusks. But they are extremely dangerous for humans and pets!
Everyone knows that it is easier to warn than to deal with the consequences, and in our case, with invasions. You can avoid such raids if ...
- to deprive snails of daytime shelter (excess boards, stones, mown grass, etc.);
- not to thicken the landing;
- periodically remove the lower rotten leaves from cabbage and lettuce;
- regularly loosen the soil.
How to understand that a tree got sick - signs
In diseased trees, the bark becomes gray due to the exudate frozen on it (bacterial fluid), which can be seen on the entire surface of not only the trunk, but also on branches, especially in autumn. In the spring, this liquid is carried by insects from diseased plants to healthy ones and infection occurs.
During rainy weather on the bark of young trees you can see many small bubbles (cortical bubble). With the onset of sunny weather, they dry up and begin to crack, forming well-marked white lenticles. The bark itself looks rough at the same time. Subsequently, ulcers appear on it, sometimes quite large. These ulcers are a big threat, especially for young trees, and lead to their gradual death. Ulcers on the trunks of adult trees can signal the death of some branches.
If fruit trees are highly infected, then in damp weather black spots appear on the bark, the tissue in this place becomes soft and when pressed, fluid oozes out. Over time, the stain can greatly increase, and if the stump of the young (tree) rings, it will die. Various fungal microorganisms that aggravate bark disease usually settle on trees with bacteriosis. If you look closely, you can see numerous convex points - this is cytosporosis.
Around the wounds, inadvertently made during cutting, a black film may appear - this is the "mob", a mushroom disease. In spring and summer, the mycelium is light, but gradually turns black by winter. The mycelium is well preserved in the winter, and in the summer affects leaves and fruits. This is expressed by the appearance of a black coating, which can be easily erased with a finger.
In adult trees infected with bacteriosis, saprotrophic fungi, very similar to turtles, can only settle a bit softer and lighter.
If throughout the summer you will carefully observe your green pets (inspect the bark of boles and young growths), then in the fall you will be able to fight for their health and prolong their life.
After all the foliage has fallen from the trees, it will be necessary to clean off the stagnant bark with a blunt scraper and treat the place with any copper-containing preparation. For example, a Bordeaux liquid (100 g of copper sulphate + 100 g lime per bucket of water) or copper chloride 50 g per 10 L of water.
If the bark on the trunk and stem A is strongly affected by bacteriosis and there are saprophytic fungi, try to clean this place as carefully as possible and disinfect with a concentrated solution of copper sulfate (300 g per bucket of water) or copper chloride (500 g per 10 L of water).
The same can be done also where you find deep cracks or hollows.
After processing, the small ones are sealed with wooden bushings, the deeper ones are covered with a mixture of clay, sand and crushed stone, and on top with cement mortar.
In the fight against fungal diseases (if the bark is affected in places), it helps the autumnal for the protein boles and skeletal branches with lime with the addition of copper sulfate (1: 3). You can also use a mixture of lime and clay, according to 2 kg each per bucket of water with the addition of 100 g joinery glue.
© D.BELOV, Candidate of Biological Sciences A.Shimsky Photo L.Trevis
© Yulia Olegovna Khramtsova, Candidate of Biological Sciences, Saratov
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
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- Tomato miner moth - pest control (Krasnodar Territory)
- Should peach branches affected by curling be trimmed?
- Combating leaf-eating pests on flowers
- The use of metronidazole in the garden and the garden against diseases and pests
- How to defeat late blight on tomatoes? List of effective means and agricultural practices!
- Diseases and pests of seedlings: memo tables from a specialist
- Three treatments of tomatoes - hydrogen peroxide, microbial and mineral solutions
- Sea buckthorn sucker and green sea buckthorn aphid - sea buckthorn pests
- Powdery mildew on currants - a folk remedy
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Several years ago we planted fruit trees, chose suitable for our climate and are resistant to diseases. But last year we noticed on the trees a lot of oblong outgrowths, similar to small shells. What is it and is it not dangerous for the garden?
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Your problem is similar to a commoid shield. It feeds on plant juices. Breeding can completely cover branches and trunks. The damaged bark gradually dies off, leaves fall off, branches wither. Trees are weakened, they lose their frost resistance, they are more easily affected by other pests and diseases.
For the destruction of scabs early in the spring use the drug Prefilaktin. Spraying is carried out at an average daily temperature of 4 ° C. At this time, insects are vulnerable, because are in hibernation. One active ingredient of the drug covers the trees with a thin film, blocking the entry of air to the pests, and the second destroys them. The drug is also active against other wintering pests, such as coffins, leaf rollers, aphids, etc.
E. KARPACHEVA, agronomist scientist
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Has planted on a summer residence some juniper, but they have transferred the second wintering very badly. When I came to the dacha in the spring, I discovered that in many places the needles were puffy and covered with a grayish coating and black dots. Then I decided to ask specialists in the nursery, where I usually buy garden crops, what could be the reason. We came to the conclusion that I planted junipers too close and in the thaw period, in conditions of high humidity, the fungus of brown snow mold developed.
I uprooted one juniper - it was severely affected by the disease and, moreover, it was located just between the remaining two, creating a thickening. Two junipers suffered much less. I removed all the affected branches and fallen needles from them. Then she sprayed the plants with Bordeaux liquid, and the soil was generously poured with a fungicide solution. Spraying with Bordeaux liquid was repeated every 10 days for a month. In addition, in the summer I fed the plants several times with complex mineral fertilizers (according to the instructions) in order to increase their resistance to diseases.
Of course, junipers were restored for a long time, but now they look pretty decent.
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It happens that, among the summer on apple and pear trees, branches suddenly dry up, while the leaves and fruits do not fall off, but remain hanging dead.
There may be several reasons. If the bark of the affected branch is covered with shallow shaggy cracks and small dark tubercles, brown spots, drops of gum are visible nearby - this is cytosporosis. The disease is caused by fungi and quickly captures not only the bark, but also the deep layers of wood. The secretions of the mycelium are toxic to the tree, and the thickening gum clogs the conductive channels. Ripening spores are carried by wind and water, and when they hit other trees, they begin to multiply on any damage to the bark, quickly penetrating inside.
It will not be possible to save the affected branches. They will have to be cut with a stock of healthy wood, immediately taken out of the garden and burned. Cut the sections with a solution of copper or iron vitriol (30-40 g for 1 L of water) or burn with the flame of the burner.
After the fall of the leaves and in the spring, before opening the buds, all trees should be sprayed for prevention with 5% solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid. Such treatment will be useful for other fungal diseases: scab, fruit rot (moniliose), powdery mildew, leaf spot, etc.
An important element of prevention is the protection of the cortex from sunburn, frost, and aging. Trunks and skeletal branches in spring and autumn should be tightly whitened. Disease resistance is higher in "well-fed" trees, so you need to regularly feed, and in drought - to water. Autumn potash and phosphorus top dressing is especially important, which ensures high-quality aging of wood.
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On clear winter days, visit the garden to remove dead fruits from the trees. If they are blackened, wrinkled, with a rough surface, this is a sure sign of the disease with black cancer. If the fruits are black, mummified, but the surface is shiny, this is obviously fruit rot.
In the winter, when the branches are viewed very well, they can be found curled dried leaves, covered with cobwebs. These are winter nests of hawthorn, golden-eared and other pests. On high snow, it is not difficult to remove them, and then burn them.
During thaws, you can uproot and burn the currant bushes, severely affected by currant buds. If only individual branches are affected, cut and burn them.
Mite-infected kidneys are clearly visible - they are more rounded and large, resemble small cabbage heads, pests overwinter in them. A tick is also dangerous because it is a carrier of terry currants.
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Powdery mulberry is most often affected by figs, orchids, azaleas, citrus, Kalanchoe.
But other plants from him, too, are not insured. You will recognize this pest in a thick white raid, from afar resembling hoarfrost or scraps of cotton wool. These are isolations of insect females, which are a favorable environment for black fungus. Other signs of the disease are a pinched look, withered and deformed leaves, buds and shoots, white patches in the soil. Often, infection occurs through a soil containing eggs or larvae. So always treat the soil with hot steam before use.
If the lesion is severe, it will be difficult to save the plant. And at the early stage, triple treatment with a soap solution is effective (you can use "green soap" - 10 g per 1 liter of water).
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This year on the leaves of peach, nectarine and currant of all kinds appeared tubercles. The foliage was not amazed at all, but from the top to the bottom of the plants it gradually crouched and turned yellow. I could not think of anything else, how to tear off all such leaves and bumps and destroy them. How, how and when can I save my garden from such an affliction? And I'm wondering whether any of the cottagers has found an effective and quick way to get rid of scab on potatoes? You can, of course, sow lupine, change the crop rotation and plant only varieties resistant to this disease, but this is too long and tedious. Especially since I was addicted to such a change of varieties and got elected to the fact that I stayed with potatoes, which really does not suffer from scab, but it is also of little use in food: you can fry and cook, but there is no taste of normal (and if you weld in uniform, in general the feeling is as if you were chewing on paper). After that I abruptly moved to plant delicious potatoes, but I had to reconcile myself to the fact that on all new varieties that began to grow, a scab appeared.
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How to destroy lichens
I bought a summer residence, I first examined the garden. It is quite old, but beautiful. True, many trees have found lichens. How to deal with it, and whether it is necessary to remove them from the trees?
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The growth of lichens on trees leads to a decrease in yield and a deterioration in the growth of the tree. In addition, the abundance of lichens creates an excellent environment for the development of pests and their larvae.
it is better to control lichens not in the spring, but in the autumn, after the end of the leaf fall. If lichens have struck the whole tree, it is better not to regret, but to uproot it and burn it. The same is true for the affected branches. If the infection is not very strong, in the fight against lichen will help copper or iron vitriol and a wooden scraper. For the treatment of trees from lichens, a solution is needed: in 1 l of water add 2 st. l. vitriol. Lichen on the branches and trunks richly moisten the solution and leave for an hour or two. Then gently remove the build-ups with a wooden scraper.
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Looking at the spring bushes of black currant, you can find a lot of swollen buds in the kidneys with normal shape and size. I hasten to disappoint you: on your currant settled bud. Do not try to see it with the naked eye, these parasites are so small (their length is up to 0,2 mm), that you can consider them only under a magnifying glass. Many gardeners spray the bushes of the currant from the mite only 1 times, at the beginning of the swelling of the kidneys, but I assure you that by this method you will never cope with this pest. Having overwintered in the kidney, the females lay eggs. From the eggs, after a while, larvae appear, which will become a new generation of adult mites. Pests penetrate the newly pawned buds (early in the season) and continue to successfully reproduce.
The exit of ticks to the surface begins during budding. At this moment, the main treatment of currant bushes from the parasite is needed.
Those kidneys in which the mite settles, become barren-they not only will not open, but flower stalks on which the future harvest of berries should be formed will not be released. Over the years (without destroying the tick), almost all the kidneys on the shoot are infected, and therefore you lose a crop of valuable berries.
In addition, passing from one plant to another, the tick promotes the spread of mycoplasma disease - the terry nature of the flower of black currant. At the first signs of the disease, I advise you to immediately remove the bushes from the site and be sure to burn them.
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We treat frosts
Examine the trunks of all trees, including ornamentals, giving special attention to young plants. Due to the current extreme winter, frost cracks could form on them. They often appear on hardwoods (fruit trees, lime trees, maple, chestnut, ashberry and others), but conifers could also suffer. Trees with frost cracks, not healed in time, are weakened, dry out. The cracks must be healed by covering the garden with varnish. In the future weakened trees pay maximum attention: feed phosphate-potassium fertilizers, water regularly and in time treat against pests and diseases.
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As a rule, treatment of berry bushes in order to protect them from insect pests is carried out in several stages.
Before the swelling of the kidneys (early April)
To protect plants from the possible development of fungal infections, as well as to deprive starving pests that have overwintered in the soil, the ability to regale young shoots and greenery, it is necessary to clean the garden plantings. To do this, all the foliage needs to be scraped and destroyed. In addition, under the plantations of currants, raspberries and gooseberries, it is mandatory to dig the soil.
During this period, all berry bushes are subject to inspection, after which all dry and damaged by insects or diseases twigs and shoots should immediately be cut and burned.
If you notice swollen buds on the currant, it's a signal that your plants
was chosen by the tick. In the case of a strong pest population, entire branches are subjected to removal.
To neutralize insects after hibernation, as well as pathogens, berry bushes and soil under and around them, it is recommended to spray with a solution of nigrafen, prepared at the rate of 0.2 kg per 10 l of water. If it becomes necessary to perform treatment exclusively against diseases, it is recommended to use 10% solution of copper sulfate or 30% ferrous sulfate solution.
In the phase of bud opening (end of April)
Against pests on gooseberries and currants spraying with 10% solution of carbophos is applied. To destroy the mite on the currant can use 10% solution of colloidal sulfur.
To prevent the exit of the fire and sawfly from the soil under the plantings of currants and gooseberries, no later than 3 May the trunks of bushes are sheltered with such materials as roofing paper, foil or roofing, sprinkling the edges of the earth, and remove the shelter only after flowering.
To prevent the strawberry-raspberry weevil from entering during budding, the raspberry is sprayed with an 10% solution of carbophos, and also 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid as a prophylaxis against the onset of disease.
After the flowering of currant and gooseberry to neutralize the fire, the soil must be regularly loosened both under the bushes and between them. In addition, all damaged fruits are removed.
After harvesting of gooseberries and currants, all bushes are treated with 10% solution of carbofos or 10% solution of triphos. To prevent the development of fungal diseases, plants are sprayed with 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid. The same goes for raspberries.
As soon as berry crops are thrown off the foliage, it is recommended to rake and burn the entire recession to destroy pests that leave for the winter in the soil, and dig the soil under the plants and between the rows.
At the same time, bushes of currants and gooseberries against fire should be bored with a layer of soil up to 15 cm, and in raspberries, in order to protect it from pests, it is necessary to cut and destroy all damaged and otppos.
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thank you very much!