Irises planting and care: frequently asked questions
Alexander Leonovich from the city of Minsk grows about a thousand varieties of irises! This expressively proves his undoubted long-term experience of irisovod. Questions relating to the cultivation of this plant, we addressed to him.
Dry-Bearded Irises Bearded
Do you often need to divide the bearded irises to bloom?
At irises on 3-4-th year flowering begins to fade. But the reason is not in the place of planting, but in rapid growth. "Fatigue" from the old place in the iris I do not observe. Unlike tulips, which accumulate disease. Therefore, iris after iris can be planted without fear.
Is it possible to plant bearded irises near the wall, under a blind fence?
If you are sure that in these places the soil is dry, there is no runoff from the roof and no flooding occurs in the spring. If moisture in this place goes away quickly, you can even water it in the heat. However, under such conditions, the groups grow smaller.
Can bearded irises be propagated by part of the rhizome without digging the plants completely?
This is a very easy method of reproduction. The old fan after flowering, as you know, is dying. The new ones, emerging from sleeping buds, grow in the first year. In the second year I stick a knife in the rhizome (not far from the fan) and pull the fan - I'm in my hands.
I've been doing this since August. Dwarf irises can be propagated in this way after flowering. Of course, the wound remains on the plant, which it is desirable to treat with greenery or powder of charcoal.
Often tall irises grow from year to year into one fan, lateral shoots do not appear, only the rhizome link is lengthened.
In this case, it is necessary to cut off the apex fan from the "secondaries". Then the sleeping buds will begin to wake from below. Do this in September, and next spring "childless" irises will sprout "hedgehog."
On heavier patches of watering, undoubtedly, will accelerate the growth of iris, but it is possible to lose the plant due to bacteriosis.
In early spring, to give a boost to growth, I feed my irises with mineral fertilizers. However, later this summer it is better not to do it.
These plants can normally develop on very poor soil.
Reference by topic: Irises are bearded and not bearded: planting, care and varieties
Dwarf bearded irises need to be divided more often than medium-sized or tall? And how do they differ, except height?
Dwarfish, of course, can be divided more often, because they grow faster and the extinction of flowering with the years they are not so noticeable. All the bearded irises carry the transplant well. They all need an open sunny place. Differences - in the rate of increase, the methods of reproduction, as well as in the earlier flowering of undersized. And dwarfs are slightly more resistant to bacteriosis, although they are afraid of excess water, just like high ones.
It is believed that iris bearded need dry places. And if the soil is heavy?
Bearded I plant on elevated ridges, because the soil is really very moisture-consuming, clayey. Otherwise they just rot. He began to make and framed boards (treated them with a special impregnation) ridge. From above I plan to pour a layer of clean sand, into it irises and plant. Rhizomes in such conditions will quickly dry out after rain or watering, and the roots, reaching the soil layer, feed on. After all, in the clay soil, the substances needed by plants are well retained.
Why do iris at the end of summer prune the leaves with a wedge?
The well-known scientist-iris Georgiy Ivanovich Rodionenko recommended to prune to remove the bulk of the infection - spotting. Because of the disease, the rhizome grows less. But then the florists had only a Bordeaux mixture at their disposal. Now there are a lot of drugs that can be used against spotting. And I prefer to process, since each leaf carries the plant a portion of food. And I clean the leaves only in the spring.
Love the water and food
Siberian irises are rapidly growing and thickening, they too need to be divided often?
- Siberian irises in one place can be grown for ten years and even more. And all the years they will blossom well, but you need to provide the necessary care. It must be remembered that the "Siberians" must necessarily "feed and water" a lot, like the marsh irises.
And if the marsh iris grows in an artificial pond?
Potted plants are fed in spring, when they are extracted and cleaned
water. And for those growing in water there are fertilizers of prolonged action, for example "Asmakota". It usually happens in the form of sticks, which can be stuck into the sponge of the rhizome.
Variegated iris marshy planted in the ground or for him to create a swamp?
It grows well in soil, especially clay, in water it is not necessary to plant. I do not recommend growing on a sandy area where there is little moisture and food.
In summer, people often ask why he does not have variegated leaves. This form of this feature - to show variegatnost only in spring on young leaves.
Reference by topic: Bearded irises - growing care and some varieties (Part 2)
Japanese irises are special
The most unstable in the middle band are Japanese irises?
- They normally grow in our conditions. But it is important to remember: they need a frequent transplantation, as the rhizomes actively "get out" during the growing season, and the flowering stops. It is often said: "We bought a Japanese iris, it blossomed well for two years, and then it was chopped". And this apical bud of the rhizome for the third year got out of the earth, froze and rotted. In spring, from the replacing kidneys located below, the plant again sprouted, giving little shoots. For the restoration can take more than one year.
If the iris is planted not in the current year, check its condition. A small salvation for one winter is a mulching layer, for example. peat. But every 2-3 year (periodicity depends on the mechanical composition of the soil) it is necessary to excavate the iris and to close it.
What are chrysographeses irises
Chrysographers are close relatives of Siberian irises
Otherwise, they are called so - Sino-Siberian, or gold. The first wild-growing representatives of chrysographs were found in the mountainous regions of China not so long ago - at the beginning of the 40th century. The main difference is that they have 28 chromosomes each, and Siberian irises have XNUMX.
Only 6 species of wild-growing chrysograses are known. They are good interbreeding, their hybrids and gave rise to this garden group. Interesting varieties were obtained, including tetraploid varieties. with large bright flowers. Exotic distinctive feature of coloring flowers - a light spot in the base of the perianth lobes - a "signal", which is decorated with a mottled pattern. The color range of petals is from deep velvety-violet to greenish-yellow, and in cultural varieties, gamma is even more diverse. The height of the peduncles is from 0,5 to 1,20 m. The so-called "black iris", a black-violet form of the iris chrysograsses, has long been well known in culture.
In care, chrysoprises are somewhat more capricious compared to conventional Siberian irises. And yet their agricultural technology is quite close. Chrysocrystals prefer mild winters, not too hot and dry summers. They should be regularly watered, mulched and built a light winter shelter in the first year after planting.
The experience of growing chrysoscopes is not too great. For example, they grow in the area of St. Petersburg in the garden of Irina Makarova, it was from her that they got into the collection of the Botanical Garden of Moscow State University named after MV Lomonosov. Lomonosov, where they have perfectly taken root and are pleased with flowering.
In general, it is difficult to meet chrysograses in the garden, because they are still not so popular and rare even in botanical gardens.
Is it irresponsible irises?
Siberian irises are considered plants that do not require much care when growing. Why are they still not as common as the bearded ones, for example?
Based on my fifteen-year experience, I can say that this is not quite so. Growing them in the garden is no less laborious than cultivating tall bearded irises. The fact is that modern varieties of Siberian irises in their parents have several species. Work began with species I. Siberians (I. sibirica) of the European population, then added I. blood-red, encountered in the wild in Siberia and the Far East, in China, Mongolia, Japan and Korea. Later, iris hriz-grapes, growing in the mountains of southern China at an altitude of 1500-3000 meters, and I. Rogozolistny, recently found in the northeast of China and Mongolia, were used. You see, what are the different ancestors: with sometimes completely different requirements to the conditions of dwelling. This is the reason for the difference in their survival rates and the growth force in the mid-zone conditions in newly derived varieties.
Bearded irises are usually transplanted two weeks after flowering. In July, many florists transplant and Siberian irises. As a result, they get sick and do not blossom for a long time. When is it better to transplant this plant?
In 2011, I was greatly disappointed. I then brought from America 60 plants of new varieties of Siberian irises. It was in June, it was very hot. Wanting to save them, she planted the delenki in the pots, put in the shade. And they ... began to die. Hurriedly transplanted irises on a bed and covered with loutra-force from the sun. As a result, out of 60, only 17 survived, and then 3 of them died later. I believe that the main reason for the failure is an untimely landing. Siberian irises are best planted in late August-September or in April.
At this time they grow new roots.
- Rooting Siberian irises is not an easy process, they never bloom the next year after transplantation. Only when a strong bush is formed.
- Without a transplant, they grow well and blossom much longer than the bearded irises - up to 10-15 years. And yet I think it's better to plant them around once in 3-4.
They say that irises like to grow in a shady place. Is it so?
Siberian irises - plants of moist floodplain meadows, fringes, and therefore, for good growth and abundant flowering, they need sun, slightly moist, but unpeated soil and mulching landings. If the plant does not receive the sun for at least half a day, there will be no bright flowering.
When planting, lay drainage. Although irises easily carry spring flood, prolonged stagnation of water during a rest period can be disastrous for them. It is advised to plant a pond on the shore when the roots of the irises can be permanently moist, and at the same time, the growth points of the rhizomes will be much higher than the water level - these are the most optimal conditions.
Last year, the Siberian irises were invaded by ants. How to deal with them?
Garden ants really do a great harm to the planting of Siberian irises, especially in late summer. I just rake out the anthills, remove the aphids and spray or sprinkle some ant-cure. In recent years, the buds of Siberian irises are affecting larvae of the lilac fly. You can find thrips and spider mites. For the fight, it is necessary to use the appropriate systemic insecticides (according to the instructions). The plant can die from a mushroom disease - a new one, which has so far been little studied, it is called a "scorcher". Effective methods to combat it have not yet been found.
Siberian irises are weeded! They easily tie seeds, perepylyaetsya and give samosev. If it is undesirable, remove the stems after flowering, not allowing the seeds to ripen.
Is it true that Siberian irises like acid soil? What you need to consider when preparing it?
In 2013, I received from America a batch of Siberian irises from recent years. I landed it right in time - in August, but ... I added ten 50-liter bags of Seliger soil and ash to the ground in the flowerbed, which absolutely could not be done. There were many dead plants. The survivors were stunted for 2 years, until I guessed to transplant them in the spring to another place where I did not add anything except humus to the soil. By the fall, I realized how much the irises like in a new place: together they went to growth, the bushes grew, the foliage became powerful and richly green.
Siberian iris is uncomfortable in strongly alkaline soils.
When planting, you need to add not only compost, but also a little peat (1: 0,5).
GROWING IRISES - PLANTING AND CARE. TIPS AND REVIEWS
IRISES AND PEONIES: DISCOVER THE VARIETY OF NEW PAINTS
Now my collection of irises and peonies totals about 500 modern varieties. Earlier, in the flower garden, irises of only three colors grew - blue, white and rarely yellow. The grassy peonies, the usual pink, red, and white, were not happy with colors.
Today, a huge variety of varieties of all kinds of colors does not cease to amaze and delight passers-by. For example, tall bearded irises of the Gypsy Lord variety are a powerful bush, in which the wide blue border of the flower goes well with the white-yellow core and orange-red tongues on the petals. Terracotta Bay is a slender plant with pure terracotta flowers. The variety Stop Flirting has a pastel color with a purple-brown haze. It is impossible to look away from the blue-blue iris of the variety Louise Song, the brown-bodied Decadence, the delicate blue Supermodel.
Of the grassy peonies I want to highlight the Coral Charm variety - a bright orange color over time becomes a pastel yellow. The Chocolate Soldier is also impressive - on a burgundy-brown saucer, not even yellow, but golden fire burns. Peonies of two-tone varieties are popular - White Cap, Cora Stabs, as well as terry varieties - bright yellow Bartzella, burgundy beetroot Red Grace, snow-white Silver.
ADVICE FOR CARE
Since mid-April, I spray all the iris plantings several times in 3-5 days with the BI-58 insecticide (or its analogue). The goal is to destroy the iris fly, which lays eggs in the buds that are forming. From leaf spot before and after flowering, I treat with Strobi fungicide.
I feed plants in the spring (in April). In summer and autumn - only watering.
In the south and in the middle zone, irises hibernate without shelter; in the northern regions, you can bombard plantings with leaves or a layer of land of 1-2 cm.
In peonies, sometimes the leaves brighten - then I water the bushes under the root with a solution of iron chelate or Ferrilen.
WHY DO NOT COLOR
Often, summer residents ask why peonies stop blooming. It is important to water the plants abundantly in the summer so that the buds of flowering next year are established. In addition, old and adult bushes should be periodically dug up, divided and transplanted to new places (at the end of summer) - to a sunny area (they do not bloom in the dull shade). Peonies love top dressing with any organic matter (for example, 1:10 mullein solution) and regular watering.
© Author: Oleg KITSENKO, Rostov Region In the photo - author
SUNNY BIRDS OF IRIS
Five years ago, I bought two iris bushes on the market with yellow petals (I call them “sun bunnies”) and one with white ones. The latter for some reason remained to grow in one bush, but the yellow ones are constantly growing, although I plant them every autumn and share them with my friends.
Before planting, at irises, I cut off the overgrown leaves at an angle of about 45 degrees, leaving stems 5-10 cm high. Since their rhizomes are quite long, you have to dig the bushes very carefully with a pitchfork.
I plant it shallow so that the root neck is above the ground. It is necessary that their roots are always covered with a thin layer of earth (2-3 cm). If the rhizome is large enough, I cut a few clean cuts with a sharp clean knife so that each has a separate fan-bunch. I lower the divisions for an hour in a light pink solution of potassium permanganate and plant them in prepared holes the size of a root coma.
At the bottom of the landing pit I pour a small mound of earth, put a rhizome on it and straighten the roots around. I sprinkle them with sand, and on top with earth. Gently crush the soil and water abundantly. When planting, I take into account the direction of the heel of the fan: it should be oriented to the south, so that it always warms up by the sun, and the leaves do not obscure the rhizome.
I mulch irises with peat, sand or a small layer of earth. Irises do not like compost containing a lot of nitrogen. I transplant them at any time, but it is better to do this after flowering.
I feed with nitroammophos at the beginning of spring, and pour water with potassium sulfate solution during budding. When the irises fade, I feed them with an aqueous solution of potassium phosphate. I bring all top dressing at the rate of 1 tbsp. on 10 l of water.
In time I cut off faded peduncles in irises. Leaves may dry out during growth; carefully remove them. I periodically inspect and, if I notice that some part of the tuber dries up or decays, carefully remove the damage with a knife, treating the cutoff place with brilliant green. But with this type of iris, this rarely happens. They are quite hardy, for which I especially appreciate them, and also for that. that for 5 years they "ns let" no pests and diseases.
When steady colds come, I sprinkle the earth around the bushes with a mixture of sand and soil, lay dry stalks of nasturtium and marigolds around them and sprinkle with dry woody foliage. And if a snow cover covers them from above, the flowers will be reliably protected from frost in the winter. With the advent of spring, as soon as the soil thaws and the snow melts, I carefully remove the shelter from the flower garden.
© Author: Valentino STAROVEROVA, city of Khorol, Poltava region Author photo
Judging by the photographs and description, I think the idea is ide1 about a hybrid iris (I. Hybrids). People call him “bearded”, because on the lower petals there are characteristic outgrowths resembling thin hairs. According to the height of the peduncle, they are divided into 3 groups: dwarf (up to 40 cm), medium-tall (41-70 cm), high (above 70 cm). Most likely, the described irises are dwarf or medium-sized.
Perhaps plants with white flowers belong to another group, without a photo it is difficult to determine. The reasons may be different, for example, if another plant obscures the rhizome, then the iris vegetates poorly.
Regarding a proper fit. it is better that the top of the rhizome remains on the surface of the earth, i.e. it is not completely buried.
If the garden has sandy soil, you need to add humus to it, and on heavy clay uiieci both sand and peat. Iris "bearded" loves sunny places, but can tolerate partial shade. Plants do not bloom in the shade.
© Author: Inna STARTSEVA, agronomist, Pavlovsky Posad, Moscow region
© Questions asked Valentine BONDAR.
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Dwarf bearded irises (photo) planting and care: questions and answers
- German Iris (photo) - planting and care
- Wintering irises in an apartment
- Bearded irises - growing care and some varieties
- Irises are bearded and not bearded: planting, care and varieties
- Siberian irises: varieties, planting and care
- Irises Siberian (photo): cultivation and care
- How I grow bearded irises on the site - planting and dividing
- Irises in questions and answers: growing, planting and care
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