Planting pepper on seedlings: seed preparation and proper care
Contents ✓
- ✓ Preparation and seeding of pepper seeds for seedlings
- ✓ Care of seedlings
- ✓ Useful properties of pepper
- ✓ Varieties of pepper seedlings which can try to grow even a beginner
- ✓ Primer and container for pepper seedlings
- ✓ Improvement of soil for pepper seedlings
- ✓ Natural growth stimulators
- ✓ We select the best seeds of pepper for seedlings
- ✓ Presowing preparation of pepper seeds
- ✓ Pepper Seedlings - share growing experience
- ✓ Pepper seedlings - video
How to grow the right sprouts of pepper
Success in growing pepper largely depends on the quality of the seedlings and their age at the time of planting. Well, let’s figure out how to lay a “solid foundation” for pepper harvest.
FAMILY: Nightshade
CYCLE: Perennial, but mostly grown as an annual plant
STEM Grassy, as it grows woody. According to the type of branching, they distinguish stems, half-stems and bushy forms
FLOWERS: Formed 30-100 pieces per season and more in the leaf axils one by one, less often two on each side branch
FRUIT: False hollow berry with mass 50-200 g with wall thickness 1-10 mm
SEEDS: Retain the germination of 3-5 years
For growing plants in heated film greenhouses, sow seeds in mid-February, in unheated - in the beginning-mid-March, in small-sized film shelters and open ground - in the middle-end of March. Soil for seedlings is best composed of peat, humus, turf or garden soil (1-2: 5: 3-4), you can add coarse river sand.
Preparation and seeding of pepper seeds for seedlings
Before sowing for disinfection, hold the pepper seeds for 20 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate (1 g per 100 ml of warm water). Then, if you want to accelerate the emergence of friendly seedlings, soak the seeds for two days in water at a temperature of + 25 ... + 30 degrees. After they bend down, dry them slightly and immediately sow them in cups (so as not to dive later) or boxes according to the 1 × 5 cm pattern to a depth of not more than 1,5 cm.
Cover the containers with plastic wrap and place them near the battery. After 3-7 days, when the first shoots appear, remove the polyethylene and rearrange the boxes on the south, southeast or southwest window sill. The first 3-4 days, maintain the temperature within + 15 ... + 17 during the day and + 12 ... + 14 degrees at night. If you did not sow immediately in cups, in the phase of cotyledon leaves, seedlings are peaked. After this, hold the plants in the shade for 1-2 days, then rearrange them to the window.
Care of seedlings
Pepper seedlings grow well at temperatures of + 24 ... +26 by day and + 15 ... + 17 degrees, at night. In the morning, as needed, water the plants with warm, settled water, make sure that it does not stagnate. Turn pots with seedlings daily so that the bushes are evenly lit. In short days, it is advisable to re-illuminate them so that the total duration of the light period is 13-14 hours per day.
Feed the seedlings twice: the first time with 1-2 real leaves (10 g of urea, 40-50 g of superphosphate, 10-15 g of potassium salt per 10 liters of water at the rate of 1 liter of solution for 10-12 plants) and the second after 10 -14 days, increasing the dose of phosphorus twice. After each dressing, water the plants with clean water.
10-12 days before planting, begin to temper the seedlings, taking it to the balcony or to the greenhouse at an air temperature of at least + 12 degrees, first for 2-3 hours, then for 10-12. And 3-5 days before planting, leave the plants on the balcony for the night (if frost is not expected).
✓ Tip: In a very frosty night, if the glasses are freezing, the plants from the window sill are moved deep into the room. When open the ventilation pane, seedlings cover with paper or rearrange. And that the plants near the battery do not overheat, protective shields or shields are attached to it.
Reference by topic: Pepper at home - planting and care
Useful properties of pepper
- In addition to the rich content of vitamins C and P, a lot of vitamin A is found in pepper (especially yellow and orange). Therefore, those who often eat vegetables are guaranteed sharp eyesight and beautiful skin.
- Sweet pepper stimulates the growth of nails and hair and makes them durable, and also dilutes the blood and prevents the formation of blood clots.
- In bell pepper, a large amount of vitamin E - this protects against early aging and cancer.
✓Fact: the height of a healthy, ready-to-plant pepper seedling should be no more than 25 cm. The plants should have a thick sturdy stem, 7-9 of real leaves and the first buds formed.
Varieties of pepper seedlings which can try to grow even a beginner
Name |
Description |
Features |
Actor |
Bush height - 70-150 cm. Fruits are bright red, cone-shaped, weighing 250-300 g, wall thickness - 6-7 mm
|
Early ripening variety. Resistant to tobacco mosaic virus, quite unpretentious |
Orange miracle |
The height of the bush is 90-110 cm. The fruits are cuboid in shape, bright orange in color, weighing 230-250 g, wall thickness up to 10 mm |
Early ripening harvest (100-110 days). Resistant to tobacco mosaic virus |
Bagration |
Plants are semi-determinant, medium-tall, 80-100 cm high. Fruits are yellow, cuboid, ribbed, weighing 150-200 g, wall thickness - 6-8 mm |
The mid-range (100-110 days) is a yielding variety for all types of greenhouses. Resistant to tobacco mosaic virus, verticillium and vertex rot |
Ilya Muromets |
The plant is a sham, medium-size plant. The fruits are red, from rectangular to trapezoidal, weighing 180-300 g, wall thickness - 5 mm |
Medium-ripening (125-130 days) grade. Demanding on the soil, has increased resistance to verticillus wilting |
A few tips from summer residents with experience in growing peppers through seedlings:
Always get a good harvest of sweet peppers.
Seeds before sowing are processed according to the instructions of EcoSil, and then also warm up on the battery. We have our own seed for the seedlings with the addition of ash and compost.
We keep seedlings on a warm sunny windowsill, additionally highlight, dive, monitor humidity - peppers like irrigation on leaves every other day.
We plant the plants in the greenhouse after the threat of frost when the buds appear. We make large holes, add them to a handful of compost and ash. To peppers of different varieties not perepylyalis, we plant them separately from each other.
In the summer, feed every two weeks with infusion of herbs, water 1-2 times a week. Constantly open the transoms (not making drafts) so that the plants do not overheat, otherwise the ovaries fall off, and the next ones will not appear soon.
Grow peppers and in the open ground on a sunny, sheltered from the wind place, watered with warm water, in the cold season we cover with spunbond, but in the greenhouse the harvest is still higher.
Council ✓: To destroy the tobacco mosaic virus, the seeds of pepper before sowing can be held for 30 minutes in an 20% solution of hydrochloric acid.
Primer and container for pepper seedlings
Components for the soil I select so that the mixture was loose, absorbed moisture well. Therefore, I usually take peat (light brown with particles of undecomposed plant residues), small sawdust, perlite, leaf, greenhouse, turf, humus soil, garden compost, coarse sand and biohumus.
The simplest universal selection: peat, turf land and humus (3: 1: 1). For 1 kg of the nutrient mixture, add 1 g of ammonium nitrate, 10 g of superphosphate and 4 g of potassium salt. I use boxes, plastic jars and cellular pallets as containers for seedlings, I tried peat pots. If I sow the seeds in a box, put it near the battery and cover it with glass, film or any non-woven material so that moisture evaporates less and seedlings appear faster. And as soon as they appear, I remove the "roof" so that the plants do not overheat.
✓ Tip: I do the following for picking tanks: in the bottom of a plastic or ceramic pot I make a hole and cover it with a circle cut from a plastic lid, cardboard or plywood. When it's time to plant the seedlings on the bed, push the stick into the circle through the hole in the bottom, and it, like a piston, pushes the plant along with the coma out.
Reference by topic: All you need to know about growing paprika
Improvement of soil for pepper seedlings
I have stored the soil for seedlings prepared in the fall in the garage - in a warm house it would have dried up, and there, freezing, pathogens and pest larvae would die there.
Then I bring it into the house for a week, I pour it down with melted water and put it to the battery to awaken the seeds of weeds that winter in the soil of pests and pathogens.
I “wake up” the soil for a week again in the cold, and I do this 2-3 more times. For 7-10 days before sowing, I return it to the apartment completely to thaw, and in 2-3 days I put it in boxes, pour it with hot 1% potassium permanganate solution (1 g per 100 ml of water) and cover it with plastic wrap.
Since the winters have been “weak” recently, it is not always possible to do frosty processing. Therefore, sometimes I steam the soil.
Earth spread on a fine-mesh net and stand over boiling water 20-30 minutes, and how to cool, put in pots for seedlings.
If the time is short, I simply shed the soil with boiling water, a solution of potassium permanganate saturated raspberry color or Fundazol (according to instructions).
Since the thermal treatment together with harmful microorganisms destroys and useful microorganisms, then, in order to restore the microflora, I spill the soil with a solution of the EM preparation (Phytosporin, Baikal).
✓ Tip: The standard mixture for seedlings I have is: garden or garden soil, humus, peat, sand, sawdust (2: 1: 1: 1: 1). And be sure to add 10 tbsp of soil for 1 tbsp. ashes. And so that the soil is light, it passes water well, bring in vermiculite or perlite, but the most affordable option is sawdust and sand.
Natural growth stimulators
Seed to the seed
Preparing seeds for sowing is a serious matter. Someone warms up, someone, on the contrary, tempers, checks for germination, "pampers" with nutrient solutions ... In anticipation of the seedling season, we offer proven advice from our readers.
Natural stimulants
I never buy ready-made growth stimulants - I do everything from the natural “helpers” that almost everyone has at hand.
Willow
Her infusion is a worthy replacement for Kornevin. I cut willow twigs and put them in water. When the rods give root, and the water turns brown, I water the seeds with it when sowing or soak in it for 5-7 hours. I will not throw out the branches of the willow with the roots that have appeared, but again I fill them with water and after 7-10 days I use this liquid. She, by the way,
sometimes becomes jelly, so before use dilute it with water 1: 1.
Aloe
I cut several leaves, put them in the refrigerator for about 4-7 days, then grind them, I fill them with water (1-2 l), I insist 5 days. With the finished composition, I water the seeds during sowing.
Tea mushroom
200 ml infusion of the tea mushroom I dilute in 1-1,5 l of water. I sprinkle seeds with sowing and feed them plants.
Dried Nettles
A handful of dried nettle pour 1 l of water, I insist 7-10 days, then dilute with water 1: 3 and feed seedlings.
Husky and ash
Two handfuls of onion husks fill 1 with boiling water. I'm adding 1 tsp. Ashes and insist 1 -3 days. Further, I dilute with water 1: 3 and water the seeds during sowing, as well as seedlings.
Do not overdo it
Before soaking, whether it’s a homemade or ready-made growth stimulator (Epin-Extra, Kornevin, Zircon, Novosil), I first hold the seeds in clean or, even better, melt water for several hours. And only after their swelling I transfer to a stimulant solution - so they will not absorb too much of its dose and will not “burn out”.
See also: Planting sweet pepper in the open ground
We select the best seeds of pepper for seedlings
Soaking seeds has long been combined with germination. I turn the big flat plate of transparent glass upside down, divide it into sectors, each write the name of the variety, turn it over. From the cotton fabric I cut the squares.
In each seed seeds of a certain grade, wrapped in an envelope and put on a plate in the appropriate sector. When the entire container is full, spray the envelopes with melt water well, put a wet piece of foam or a pile of moistened cotton discs in the center.
Then I tighten the plate with food film and put it in the warmest place in the kitchen. Every day I take off the film, check the seeds and sprinkle them with melt water. If in some envelope a third of the seeds are stuck, I remove them with tweezers and sow. In a day, once again, I select those who have come to bed.
And I throw away those that are still “sleeping” - all the same, the plants from them will be weak.
Potato juice for seeds
I read that under the influence of darkness and low temperature, biologically active substances are formed in the potato juice, which influence well the germination of seeds. I freeze several potatoes in the freezer, I get out to thaw, I rub it on a small grater, squeeze the juice and keep seeds in it about 5 hours. The result is always very good!
Presowing preparation of pepper seeds
Presowing seed preparation for me is a must. Indeed, it is possible to significantly increase their germination and strength, and hence the future harvest.
Calibration
I noticed that the more friendly seedlings are from high-quality, large seeds. Apparently, they have more nutrients. To take them away, I fill the seeds in a solution of sodium chloride (1 teaspoon per 1 tbsp of water), mix for a couple of minutes and let it stand. Floating, throwing the smallest, and leave for sowing sown to the bottom. I wash and dry them.
Seed warming
To increase the pumpkin seed germination, I heat their seeds for two-three days in gauze bags on a battery or for 2-3 hours in the oven at + 50 ... + 55 degrees, sprinkling with a thin layer and stirring occasionally. By the way, this will be especially useful if the seeds were stored not at room temperature, but at a low temperature.
Seed disinfection
For the prevention of viral and fungal diseases seeds 20 minutes pickled in a pink solution of potassium permanganate or 5-7 minutes in a warm 2-3% solution of hydrogen peroxide.
Germination of seeds
I cover the saucer with gauze or filter paper, I spread the seeds from the top, lightly sprinkle them with water and keep them in a warm (+ 20 .. + 25 degrees) semi-dark place until they come into contact. All this time I watch that they do not dry up, but I do not pour it, otherwise they can corrupt.
Hardening
This technique is needed to make the plants better tolerate temperature changes, which is especially necessary for tomatoes. The seeds are put in the refrigerator for an hour, then I keep it for a couple of hours at room temperature; so I repeat 2-3 more times.
✓ Tip: In saline, I calibrate only my seeds. But it’s dangerous to do this with purchased ones - if they are overdried, even good specimens can come up.
Without pre-treatment, I never sow seeds. I think that the harvest will be higher! For several years I tried many options. Here are the most, in my opinion, effective.
- I irradiate the seeds with an ultraviolet lamp for no more than one minute. After such treatment, they will not only be decontaminated, but will also receive a powerful stimulus to intensive growth.
- Excellent disinfects and garlic solution: 1 tsp. garlic porridge I dilute in 200 ml of warm water and within an hour I keep the seeds in it under the closed lid.
- To charge the seeds with nutrients, before planting for 10-15 minutes, I lower them into the infusion of Mullein (1: 6).
See also: Sweet pepper - cultivation, planting and care. Varieties of sweet pepper.
Pepper Seedlings - share growing experience
My favorite cockatoo ...
For many years I have been growing peppers through seedlings. But I also like to experiment with hot peppers. The year before last, I bought at random and raised one variety - it turned out to be so hot that last year it switched to semi-sharp varieties. In our family we love such peppers - they are good for borscht, both in marinade and for seasonings.
I plant both bitter and sweet pepper in late February - early March, and I buy seeds, by the way, much earlier: I know from experience that there are fewer people in specialized stores, and you can choose calmly, without fuss, in consultation with seller.
I prepare seeds for planting like this. I make a weak solution of potassium permanganate and soak them for half an hour. Then I dip in a gauze bag in a solution of wood ash - for a day. Very much increases productivity! After that, I let them dry and start planting in the ground.
The land is always prepared for me in advance: a light peaty ground in half with the garden ground, and I add ashes (1 glass on a bucket of soil). Someone plants seedlings in glasses, but I do not have much room on the windowsill, so I use the 1 container. First, I cover with a film, pre-pouring water, and after a while, when the sprouts appear, I open the film and then remove it altogether.
When it's time to send seedlings to the beds, I am abundantly watering the soil with water about 2 hours before planting.
Now a few words about the grades. From sweet peppers I plant only Cockatoo F1. Amazing sort! He gives such large, juicy, fleshy fruits that I do not need any other pepper and nothing!
But many varieties have been sold to Gorky. I advise: Ratunda, Senna, Paladin, Sirin - everyone has a magnificent peninsular (not burning!) Taste, aroma, high yield.
I will share the secret: since bitter and sweet peppers are dusted, I plant a bitter pepper longer than her vegetable garden, and around the flower bed. Very original and looks beautiful!
Irina Ermolaeva with. Shopino Belgorod region.
Strong pepper sprouts
1. To grow pepper in an ordinary film greenhouse, I sow seeds for seedlings in early to mid-March, and my neighbor, who has a heated greenhouse, sows in mid-February.
2. The substrate needs pepper with a high content of humus, crumbly. Therefore, for many years I have been composing it myself from fertile black soil, purchased soil for seedlings and sand (1: 1: 1). Recently I began to add a little vermiculite - it retains moisture well and loosens the soil.
3. By the way, it is better to check your own and purchased soil for acidity: it should not be increased. Especially this “sin” ready mixes with an excess of peat. In this case, I advise you to add lime or dolomite flour. Peppers, then mats and eggplants, 15 g per 1 kg of soil is enough.
In contrast to tomatoes, peppers do not tolerate pickings, because their roots are slowly restored. Therefore, seeds are sown immediately in two separate cups from sour cream and, if necessary, I then do not pick up, but transfer plants to pots.
© Author: Tatyana RUDKOVSKAYA
TIP: The soil, composed independently, it is better to decontaminate: pour hot pink solution of potassium permanganate, bake in the oven. But after these procedures, allow him to stand for at least two weeks, so that useful bacteria are again introduced into the soil.
Seed preparation
I sift through the seeds of pepper before sowing, delete empty, black, damaged ones. You can lower them into a salt solution (1 tsp per 1 tbsp of water): good, full-weight ones will be at the bottom, and the dummies will pop up - I remove them. The remaining ones are washed in clean water, disinfected for 20 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate (1 g per 100 ml of warm water) and dried. Usually, fresh seeds (no older than three years) germinate after two weeks.
I moisturize the earth, make rows in 2 cm, spread the seeds at a distance of 2 cm from each other, cover it with a layer of soil of 1,5 cm and cover it with film or glass. I put the seed bowl in a warm place, where + 25 ... + 30 degrees, {not lower, otherwise they will rise soon!), But not on the battery. With the advent of a pair of real leaves, I arrange the peppers in separate cups, moreover, the larger the capacity (up to 1 liter) - the better.
Sofya GUSEVA, Posev the Chelyabinsk region.
Pepper seedlings - sowing pencil
Before sowing, moisten a napkin with warm water (45 °), squeeze and fold in half. I put pepper seeds on one half of the tissue, which were before it for 20-30 minutes. In a warm weak solution of potassium permanganate, and cover the other half.
I place the tissue with seeds in a plastic bag, without tying it, and put it near the 6 of the battery (to heat).
On the third day the seeds wake up. Now I am preparing a hotbed: in a plastic box from under the fruit, stele the film so that there are sides. Of the 1.5-liter plastic bottles I cut the cylinders with a height of 10-12 cm and put them on the film in a box, compressing them so that they become oval. I fill the earth, tightly install and in the right and left parts of the oval I plant on the seed: I make dimples in the ground wider and with a simple pencil (wet seeds stick to it) I transfer them into the holes.
Soil I use universal purchased. Be sure to moisturize before planting, and after it I cover with a transparent film and put it under the battery. As soon as sprouts, loops appear, remove the film and put the box in the light, on the windowsill. I water only under the root, quite a bit, with warm, standing water (about 20 °). It is desirable to maintain the air temperature between 20-25 ° during the day and 15-18 ° at night - the roots are formed better.
I pinch the seedlings after the 5-6th leaf, so that side shoots appear on which the main crop ripens. I feed with a weak solution of ash and superphosphate. I temper, taking to the loggia in the afternoon, if there the temperature is above 10 °, I bring it into the room at night. Planted in open ground in warm weather.
To do this, I fill each hole with manure, ash and 1 tsp. superphosphate by adding a little dry chicken droppings. I mix everything and pour plenty of warm water. I cut the cylinders with scissors and with a lump of earth I plant them in beds, mulching. I have beds 80 × 300 cm in size, and I plant peppers on each bed in two rows in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between the plants is 50 cm. Between the beds I have tracks 80 cm wide, so I do not go along the beds with vegetables, and the land there is always loose and fluffy.
- After 10-15 days after transplantation, I do the first fertilizing: 1 L Mullein infusion, 30-40 g superphosphate, 20-30 g of potassium and 100-150 g of wood ash per 10 L of water.
- The second feeding before flowering: the same composition + 1 / 3 tsp. potassium permanganate.
- The third top dressing - with the appearance of the ovary: 1 liter of infusion of mullein, 10 g of urea, 30-40 g of superphosphate, 100-150 g of ash per 10 l of water. All watering - 1 liter per bush.
In late July, I remove the tops again and leave 10-12 fruit. At the same place, I grow peppers 4-5 years.
© Author: Lyubov Lutsenko Konotop
Pepper seedlings - video
In preparing the article, the following tips were used:
Hope GrishchenkovOH, Mogilev Natalia FUES, Vitebsk Natalia DORONINOY, Kaluga V.ZAPOLSKAYA, Minsk Anastasia TYUMENTSEVA, Mogilev Galina BYCH, Krasnodar Natalia TARASOVA, Severodvinsk
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Pepper in the Moscow region - planting, care, review of varieties and reviews about them
- Eggplant and pepper cultivation in the Urals in open ground
- The best conditions for growing pepper seedlings
- Growing pepper in the Moscow region - its own seeds, its own seedlings
- Planting pepper on seedlings: seed preparation and proper care
- Sweet pepper cultivation technology and selection of suitable varieties
- Varieties of unusually shaped peppers - cultivation and my reviews
- How to grow store-bought black pepper on your windowsill at home?
- Growing bell pepper in open ground: planting and care (Samara region)
- When is it better to plant seedlings of pepper - sooner or later: experiment
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Sweet pepper seeds are coated with a thick layer of essential oils that can inhibit germination. Contrasting “baths” help improve their germination ability.
Water is poured into 2 glasses: in one - hot, at a temperature of 80-90 degrees, in the other - almost ice, left in the refrigerator for the night. In these vessels, seeds wrapped in a piece of tissue are alternately lowered for 3 seconds. In total, 3 cycles of such "hardening" are required.
After this procedure, in the same rag sprinkled with water, the seeds are left for two days - until they are bite. As soon as this happens, they are laid out in a seedling box with an interval of 1-1,5 cm. The same distance is maintained between the rows.
Seeds are sprayed with a solution of the root stimulant, and then with clean water and lightly sprinkled with loose soil. The seedlings should be tightened with plastic wrap and put in a bright place, illuminating with artificial sources to extend the daylight hours to 14-15 hours.
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Usually the seeds are sown for 65-75 days before the planned transplanting of the seedlings into the ground. Seeds for disinfection are pre-soaked for a day in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate. Aloe juice is very effective, possessing both bactericidal and stimulating properties. Cut the bottom (old) sheet for two days stand in the refrigerator, then its juice is diluted with water 1: 1 and soak seeds in it.
(Prepared seeds are buried at 1,5-2 cm, that is, approximately the length of the phalanx of the finger.) The soil is kept slightly moistened, but not wet, after emergence, they are only sprayed but not watered.
Dive (transplant into a large container) is made after the disclosure of the 2-th present sheet. Do this very carefully, so as not to damage the roots. When transplanting, try not to bury the root collar.
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A place for seedlings is chosen well-lit, but closed from drafts. If this is a windowsill, then the bottom edge of the frame is additionally insulated or a foam sheet is laid between the frame and the pots. The best mode for seedling development: 21 -23 ° - during the day and 16-18 ° - at night. Both overheating and overcooling are harmful.
Pepper requires a lot of moisture, but does not tolerate water stagnation. Watering the room temperature with water at a standstill is carried out once in 5-6 days, while wetting the earthen lump entirely.
The first top dressing is carried out 2 weeks after the dive, then repeat every 2 weeks. If the seedlings have grown too fast, then the number of top dressings is reduced. The composition of the nutrient solution: 1 g of water - 1 g of ammonium nitrate, 6 g of superphosphate, 2 g of potash fertilizers.
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Peppers have a fragile root system and react painfully to its damage during transplantation. Therefore, seedlings should not be grown in one large container, where the roots of plants intertwine, and in individual pots.
To germinate seeds, peat-tablets or small cells can be used, where seeds are sown one at a time. Good containers for the first time will be small cups from under yogurt. In their bottoms, it is necessary to make a few nuts for the drain of water.
Then each plant is transplanted into a pot with a volume of at least 0,5 l. It is very convenient to use liter terapakovskie packets from under juices and dairy products: they are strong enough, they have a convenient rectangular shape, a suitable volume. When it comes time to plant seedlings in the ground, the package is simply cut with scissors and extracted with an earth lump entirely, without damaging the roots. In the lower part of the bag, several holes are made to drain the water. At the bottom pour a handful of large line for drainage. You can add a little eggshell to it.
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Peppers have a fragile root system and react painfully to its damage during transplantation. Therefore, seedlings should not be grown in one large container, where the roots of plants intertwine, and in individual pots.
To germinate seeds, peat-tablets or small cells can be used, where seeds are sown one at a time. Good containers for the first time will be small cups from under yogurt. In their bottoms, it is necessary to make a few nuts for the drain of water.
Then each plant is transplanted into a pot with a volume of at least 0,5 l. It is very convenient to use liter terapakovskie packets from under juices and dairy products: they are strong enough, they have a convenient rectangular shape, a suitable volume. When it comes time to plant seedlings in the ground, the package is simply cut with scissors and extracted with an earth lump entirely, without damaging the roots. In the lower part of the bag, several holes are made to drain the water. At the bottom pour a handful of large line for drainage. You can add a little eggshell to it.
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i Hurry NU him!
I'm not in a hurry to plant seedlings of cucumbers, watermelons and melons, because their seedlings are younger by the time they land - the better they get accustomed. Therefore, I sow the seeds of pumpkin seedlings not before mid-April. Also in April I sow a glass of corn and corn asparagus in order to get their harvest early.
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The main thing is the soil
For pepper, the ground must be loose, light and breathable, albeit not very greasy. And the seedling does not like pepper, when it is constantly rearranged from place to place, pinching or tearing off leaves. Peppers are big sissies
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Densely and amicably
I noticed that cabbage seedlings are not afraid of crowding, so that it is possible to sow in a tray densely, and even when planting on a bed, the distance between plants should be at least 30 cm.
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Let's try humidity
For seedlings, the optimum humidity is 60-80%, which is rare in a heated room. The cheapest and most effective way to increase air humidity is to moisten the curtains. He hung up the old ones and, regularly spraying water from them with a spray gun, determined with a hygrometer that the moisture level had increased by 10-15%.
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So that the pepper seedling is not stretched, I put a foil screen next to it.
Also, additional lighting will not hurt either: above the boxes at the adjustable height of the tripod I attach a fluorescent lamp with a reflector.
As the seedlings grow, I lift the lamp, keeping the distance from the lamp to the tops of plants 20-25, see.
I turn on the lamp every day for a while in the morning and evening with the expectation that the light day for seedlings lasted 16 hours.
And under the boxes with seedlings of pepper I put foam plastic from such warming in plants on a cold window sill the root system develops better.
In the phase of two real leaflets I feed on the instructions with the Baikal EM-1 preparation.
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7 tips for pepper lovers
It seems that for heat-loving sweet peppers in the greenhouse - the optimal microclimate, so they do not need much care there. However, this is not quite true.
Peppers are truly a thermophilic culture. If the temperature in the greenhouse is below + 18 °, they simply stop growing and can only recover when warming. Therefore, I do not allow a drop in temperature and always close the greenhouse at night.
In the afternoon, the structure must be ventilated, since the peppers do not tolerate condensation. This can weaken them, cause various diseases.
I am attentive to the composition of the soil in the greenhouse. Once in 2-3 years, no matter how troublesome it may be, replace the top layer with the thickness of 20 cm for a new one.
Peppers have a shallow root system, so they need sufficient watering. If rain helps in the open ground, then in closed water one should not forget about regular watering, and only with warm water.
Some varieties require pollination by bees, so during flowering you need to spray plants with sweet water. I do this early in the morning so as not to cause sunburn.
If the fruit is badly tied, I spray the plants once with the stimulant of fruit formation, I watch that the temperature does not rise above 30 °, otherwise the pollen will be sterile.
Twice a month I do organic-mineral top dressing and once - foliar, microelements.
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When growing pepper, I adhere to the principle: it is better to underfeed than overfeed. I feed it only when it develops slowly or hard to take root in a new place. In these cases, 10 days after disembarkation, I introduce a solution of urea (a matchbox on 10 L of water).
After each removal of fruits, I fertilize the pepper with organic: for 5-7 days I fill the manure with the water (1: 1), I plant 1: 10 and water.