Growing and reproduction of lilies, planting and care

Lily - the flower is truly multifaceted. It turns out that in the culture of the lily they were used not only as an ornamental plant!

For example, in China and Japan since the XIII century, some varieties of lilies (in particular, lanceolith lily) were grown exclusively for the sake of bulbs that were used for food. And to use the lily as an ornamental plant in China and Japan began much later - in the XVII century. In European parks, the lily as an ornamental plant has been cultivated everywhere since the end of the 16th century.

But to grow a lily, so to speak, on an industrial scale have learned in our time. And as you can easily guess, the most successful in this business are famous florists - the Dutch.

And the cultivation and "harvesting" on dozens of hectares of lilies covered with bulbs are maximally automated: combines, washing and drying machines, storehouses of bulbs in which the specified humidity and temperature are maintained, everything is organized in order to get the highest quality products.

From such enterprises, bulbs of lilies and sent to different ends of the world, so that each florist had the opportunity to decorate his garden with those representatives of the family of lilies, which he likes most! Especially since the difference among the lilies is not limited to specific features, since on the basis of the original species, many varieties and hybrids have been brought to the surface, affecting the eyes with an unprecedented variety of shapes and shades!

Lilies - this perennial bulbous grasses, reaching a height of 180 cm. According to one version, the name "lily" comes from the Greek word lerion - "white"; from this word there was a Latin Lirium, later transformed into Lilium. Currently, there are more than 100 species of lilies, differing from each other both in the shape of the flower, and in color and size, common in central and southern Asia, Europe and North America.

However, the area of ​​lily growth is unusually wide: flowers of various lilies can be found both in zones with a warm climate (southern China, Taiwan, Philippines), and in a zone with a temperate climate and even in the cold north (Japan, Korea, taiga forests of Primorsky Krai of Russia , The Kurile Islands and Sakhalin Island).

Lilies, as already mentioned, are perennials, so they accumulate nutrients in the underground organs - bulbs that hibernate in the flowerbed until spring, during the growing season. The depth of occurrence of bulbs in the ground can vary depending on the type of lily variety: most species form bulbs at a considerable depth, but there are also lilies with bulbs located near the surface of the soil. It is noteworthy that in the climatic zone with frost-free winters, the stems of lilies may not die completely in the cold season, but may wither only partially, to the basal rosette. With the onset of the climatic spring, the stem that has survived since autumn gives a new shoot, and the cycle of development of the flower repeats itself.

Flowers of lilies can be as small as in the wild lily of Martagon, and very large, like many varietal varieties, often have a pleasant aroma. The range of shades of flowers is very diverse: from classic white to interesting yellow, orange, red and even purple hues. Most of the lilies bloom in late spring - the first half of summer. The flower has 6 bent petals and large, outstanding forward stamens and pestle. This form promotes the attraction of pollinating insects to the flower. Ripe seeds on the flowers of lilies in late summer.

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See also: Lilies - purchase, storage planting (photo)

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We choose bulbs of lilies for cultivation

When buying bulbs, you must adhere to a few simple but important rules. First of all, it is necessary to avoid places of spontaneous trade, that is, not to buy bulbs of lilies from the hands: in markets, in places of unauthorized trade near garden shops. After all, with such a purchase, you not only risk getting a "cat in a poke," that is, you can not buy the kind of variety or hybrid that you promise, but also bring a plant infected with fungi, for example, to a garden, so that healthy flowers, including lilies (if you plan to complement the collection of lilies in your garden). Therefore, the best option is to buy bulbs of lilies in specialized shops that sell plants and have proven themselves in the market of producers.

But even if you buy bulbs, for example, brought from Holland, in a bag with the appropriate label - you still need to carefully examine the bulbs before buying. First of all, probe each bulb - a healthy bulb should be dense, without softening or signs of rot. On the bulb, there must necessarily be several rootlets and a sprout. Also, the packaging with bulbs should not be too battered - this may indicate that the bulbs are stored in the store for a long time, are transferred from box to box and, therefore, for a long time are at the inappropriate temperature for them.

To buy bulbs of lilies should be as close as possible to the time of the planting day: in this case, the risk of damage to the bulbs due to improper storage is significantly reduced from the time they are purchased in the store to planting. If you still need to hold a bulb for a while at home until the day of planting, then you can do it only at a certain temperature. The best place for this is the refrigerator compartment, where the temperature is maintained at the level of 0 degrees. Store in the refrigerator lily bulbs can be in any air-permeable container. For example, in a cardboard box, interspersed with dry peat or sphagnum. If on the bulbs even in the refrigerator the sprouts start to grow longer, then this should not be frightened, since this is a natural process: bulbs of lilies grow even in winter. Landing in the ground can be made in the very beginning of spring. The only condition - on the street should be a plus temperature and the ground should not be frozen.

Planting lilies

Planting bulbs of lilies in the ground is usually done in the autumn (no later than 3 weeks before the beginning of frosts) or early spring, as soon as the soil is thawed.

Planting material should be healthy: the bulbs should not show signs of rot, soft dents, fresh mechanical damage. Before planting, it is necessary to carefully inspect the bulb and, if it reveals the dry tips of the roots, cut them with a pruner. The depth of the closure depends on the bulb itself: the large bulbs are buried deeper, the smaller ones are closer to the surface of the earth. In order not to be mistaken in calculating the depth, one can always use a simple rule: to plant a bulb to a depth of three dimensions of the bulb itself (except for planting a white lily and hybrids originating from it to a depth of no more than 3 cm).

The distance between the bulbs during planting is usually 15-30 cm, depending on the size of the plants. Before planting, it is necessary to drain the landing pit with sand: the sand is poured onto the bottom of the pit, then it can not be achieved due to the overstretched sprout, then the bulb in the hole will need to be placed at an angle so that the seedlings are buried underground and the bulb is not too deep. Also, when planting these or other lilies, you need to carefully study the characteristics of a particular species: remember that not all natural species and hybrids of lilies are frost-hardy and it may happen that some of them can not grow in your region. Therefore, in order not to waste time and work in vain, choose for planting only those varieties of lilies that are adapted to your climate zone.

And one should not forget about spring frosts. In principle, most of the lilies withstand the cold and spring frosts without damage,

but there are exceptions. For example, the lilies of a group of tubular hybrids can suffer during spring frosts and because of this do not blossom, so during the cold weather, it is recommended to cover the site of tubal lilies with last year's foliage or any other insulation. And it is also necessary to remember the need for each variety of lilies in the sunlight. It is known that many lilies grow quite well in partial shading (for example, the litters of the Martagon group), but still an optimal place for most lilies is an open sunny place (especially for tubular and snow-white hybrids). And the last but not least important condition for the correct planting of lilies is the correct selection of soil by the level of acidity. For example, lilies of LA- and OT-hybrids grow on neutral soils, tubal lilies and lilies of the Candida group prefer slightly alkaline soils, the lilies of the group of Eastern and American hybrids grow well on acid soils, the lily of the group of Asian hybrids and the group of hybrids Martagon - on weakly acidic or neutral .

Care for lilies

In the summer, lilies are not required for special care. Most varieties of lilies are well suited for short-term drying of the ground in hot weather in summer, so artificial irrigation should be done only during a prolonged drought (except for Eastern hybrids, who prefer frequent watering). An important rule of artificial irrigation of lilies: watering can be done only under the root, do not use water sprayers.

Feeding of lilies

During the vegetation, lilies should be fed with complex mineral or organic fertilizers, especially if lilies are grown on poor soils. In this case, the larger and the more luxuriant this or that kind of lily should bloom, the more demanding it is for top dressing. Usually lilies fertilize 3-4 times during the growing season, and the type of fertilizer depends on the phase of development of the lilies. In the spring, nitrogenous fertilizers stimulating growth are introduced, before the beginning and during the flowering phosphoric, and at the end of flowering potash fertilizers, which increase the ability of plants to withstand winter cold. During the summer period, weeding, loosening of the soil around the plants and pest control, if any, should also be carried out as necessary.

In the autumn period it is necessary to take care of the correct preparation for the winter of certain varieties of lilies. Particular attention will be paid to the lilies of the Eastern group, as well as OT-hybrids: in the autumn period, the bulbs of these varieties should be in dry ground, therefore in rainy weather their place of growth will need to be covered with a film.

In the first winter after planting, all lilies should be sheltered regardless of their frost resistance. In the following winters - according to the needs, depending on the climate of your region and the frost resistance of the species you planted, a variety or a hybrid of lilies.

Reproduction of lilies

The simplest ways to reproduce lilies - the division of bulbs, bulbous scales and cauliflower buds (bulbots).

Reproduction of lilies by bulb division

Throughout life, the bulb of lilies is always divided, so around it are formed the so-called children, eventually reaching the size of the mother plant. Outwardly, this process manifests itself in the formation on the site of an adult plant bush of lilies. Therefore, such a bush can be divided and planted in a new place. Division of a bush is best done when young lilies reach a height of 10 cm, and in time of the year - in autumn or spring. The transplantation process is simple: a lily bush is dug out, young bulbs are separated from it, before planting the bulbs soaked in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes and on the same day they are planted in a new place.

Bulbous scales

The method of bulb multiplication by scales is based on an interesting fact: scales of bulbs of lilies are viable in themselves and can form a full-blown bulb and a plant. And this is how it is done. In early spring or autumn, bulbs of adult lilies are excavated. The bulb is washed, cleaned of dirt. Then, it is necessary to carefully remove a number of external scales at the base in such a way that the bulb diminishes in volume by no more than half. The remaining bulb can be placed again on the bed, and scales should be soaked for half an hour in a weak solution of potassium permanganate and then treated with a drug that stimulates rooting. Then dried scales should be mixed with moss-sphagnum and placed in this form in plastic boxes, covering them with caps on top.

In this form, the boxes with flakes are placed in a dark, but warm place with a temperature of about 23 ° C and are kept so for 6 weeks. Then, for another 4 weeks, the temperature in the room where the boxes are stored should be reduced to 17 ° C. As a result, we get small bulbs formed on scales of lilies. In this form, plants should be planted in a permanent place in the garden or temporarily in boxes, if it's too cold outside. Formation of adult plants from scales occurs at 2-3-th year after planting.

Stem lilies of lilies

Another interesting way of reproduction of lilies is with the help of stem buds-bulbs. True, this method has one drawback - not all varieties of lilies form stem buds. Nevertheless, the phenomenon is not so rare, especially in long periods of warm but damp weather.

Most often bulbs are formed after the flowering period of lilies, maturing in the sinuses between the leaf and the stem. After the maturation, the bulblets are separated. From now on they are suitable for planting. Planting bulbs from autumn is better not directly into the bed, but in a special container in the form of seedlings. The very same container for the winter is placed in a cool room with a weakly positive temperature. And with the arrival of the climatic spring, when young shoots appear on the bulbocks, they must be planted on a permanent place in the garden.

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Reference by topic: Lilies - planting and care, varieties and species

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Two varieties of wintering lilies

Wintering lilies involves two options: staying in winter covered ground and digging bulbs for the winter and storing them indoors at a certain temperature and humidity.

Wintering lilies in the ground

Wintering in the ground can those lilies, frost resistance which does not cause fear in relation to the average temperatures of the coldest month in each individual region. For example, it is known that the lily of the Asian hybrids group, the Martagon group, are the least sensitive to frost, and a number of new hybrid groups, for example, LA hybrids.

A variety of long-flowered hybrids, as well as some groups of Oriental and Tubular hybrids, belong to the low-frost-resistant species.

On the other hand, in the first year after planting, most varieties of lilies require shelter for the winter, as the plants are not yet strong enough.

A good means of shelter for lilies are a variety of plant remains - fallen leaves, straw, mown grass. The best multi-layered shelter, consisting of how many layers of plant from the garden soil. In snowy weather, the growth of lilies is additionally insulated with sprinkled snow over the insulation. More complex shelter for the winter requires the East and Tubular hybrids. These species can hibernate only in dry ground, therefore, since autumn, the growth sites of these lilies need to be protected from moisture by means of a film in the days of atmospheric precipitation.

Wintering lilies at home

Digging for the winter and keeping bulbs of lilies at home is done as follows. The bulbs excavated in autumn are cleared from the ground, washed and dried. Then a visual inspection of the bulbs is made: specimens with rotting spots or traces of mechanical damage are removed from the total mass. After that, the bulbs are treated with a fungicide and placed in a place of winter storage. No pre-treatment, for example, pruning roots, do not need to produce. Store bulbs of lilies are necessary in containers with a paper base, letting air in. This can be cardboard boxes or boxes, paper bags.

Before loading into the container, the bulbs must be mixed with a mixture consisting of pine sawdust and peat in the ratio 1: 1. The storage area of ​​the bulbs should be cool (with a constant temperature of 0-2 ° C) and fairly humid (humidity of at least 70%).

Growing lilies at home

Part of the garden lilies can be grown in a container. This method has several advantages. Firstly, the container with lilies can be easily moved in the garden, it can be placed on the terrace, balcony, recreation area. Secondly, lilies grown in a container are easier to shelter from rain in autumn and it is convenient to store it in winter in a cold room at the optimum temperature for wintering lilies. Well, the main advantage of this method is the opportunity to grow those varieties of lilies that can not overwinter in the open ground because of their non-frost resistance.

One of these lilies is Philippine lily. This species will not be able to winter in the open ground, but it will grow well in a container. A remarkable feature of the Philippine lily is a stalk of an unusual shape and white, sometimes with a greenish tint and delicate aroma, tubular flowers. Philippine lily is demanding of light, heat and regular watering. In winter, a container with a Filipino lily is placed in a cool room, watering is minimized and kept until spring. In early spring, a container with a lily can be placed on the south balcony or loggia, and when warm frosty weather sets in, it can be taken out into the garden again.

Another example is the lily of Formosa. This species is found in nature in the south of China and on the island of Taiwan, so it is also not frozen. But Formosa lily is also of interest as a container plant. Her undoubted merit is the tubular fragrant flowers of non-

ordinary color, white inside the petals and painted outside in a maroon color, turning into the same burgundy stalk. Zimovat Formozskaya lily can be in a light and cool room, and the period of vegetation of the lily under favorable conditions (a lot of light and heat) can not stop at all.

Lily long-flowered - another species that is best suited for growing in a container. Lily long-flowered in nature grows in the south of Japan, in height reaches 1 meters and is adorned with classic white tubular aromatic flowers.

In a truly graceful way, another thermophilic species will look in the container - lily. It is a lily from the southern regions of China, reaches a height of 180 cm. The flowers of the lily are numerous, tubular, fragrant, white on the edges, yellow inside, and adorned with burgundy veins on the outside, closer to the base. Lily is not hardy, it can winter in a container in a cool room.

But perhaps the most valuable representative of container lilies can be considered lily royal because of its unusually strong flavor. In nature, the royal lily grows in the southwest of China, has white funnel-shaped flowers, with yellow spots inside, decorated with pink and purple veins on the outside. The frost resistance of the royal lily is low, but in regions with mild winters it can be grown outdoors.

Lilies, being one of the most beautiful flowers, can not hide somewhere in the corner of the garden, they should always be in sight. In this case it is desirable that the lilies not only pleased with the look when you, for example, go out of the house into the garden or go into the garden from the street, but were planted in such a way that they could be seen from the window of those rooms in your house where you spend enough time. Noah how to place lilies in the garden and in relation to what plants - there are possible options. One should only not forget that many lilies are light-loving enough, so shaded places for most hybrids will not work. How to place lilies in the garden? Just look at your garden. Is there an artificial pond in it? If so, then the lilies will be an excellent addition to the tall grasses, usually grown in the pond. The only condition - lilies should be planted from the opposite side of the pond, not close to the point of inspection, otherwise bright flowers of lilies will simply distract attention from the reservoir to themselves, and this is undesirable, because the pond itself is an attractive object of the garden.

Look beautiful lilies planted along the garden paths, especially if the space between the tracks is occupied by a simple lawn and small compositions, for example, from coniferous crops.

Many hybrids of lilies vary considerably in size. Therefore, when forming a composition from a variety of lilies, it is necessary to place the tallest species in the center, and at the edges the lowest ones. Add the same composition of lilies along the edges of the flowerbed with the help of unpretentious bushes hosts. The host successfully conceals the stems of the extreme lilies and covers the free space between, ground and lily flowers.

During the formation of garden compositions, it is desirable to select varieties of lilies not only in color, but also in flowering time. After all, if you plant lilies in the same place that blossom in different periods of summer, then we will receive a continuously flowering flower bed.

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See also: The structure of lilies - flowers, stems, leaves and bulbs

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Diseases and pests of lilies

To ensure that lilies always delight you with their delicious flowers and do not hurt, you need to provide them with proper care and protection. Consider the most common and dangerous diseases and pests of lilies that can threaten your pets.

Chlorosis of lilies

Most lilies usually suffer from violations of the rules of farming and diseases arising from this. The most popular mistake gardeners - planting heat-loving lilies in a zone with a cold climate or on grounds with unsuitable acid-base reaction. For example, in excessively alkaline soils, many lilies may develop chlorosis. This is especially true for hybrids adapted to acidic soils (American hybrids, for example). Chlorosis is a process caused by the withering away of chlorophyll, and externally manifested in the appearance of rusty spots and streaks on the leaves of lilies, while the stronger the disease, the more yellow on the leaves and stems of the plant. Also, the cause of the appearance of chlorosis in lilies can serve as excessive precipitation, as rainwater from the soil is washed out necessary for the plant microelements.

Control measures. The best way to help the lily in case of chlorosis is to transplant it to a new place, suitable for the acidity of the soil, or to acidify the soil around the plant itself. To do this, it is enough to cover up the soil with perepred pine needles, bark or sawdust. It is also possible to pour a forest soil from under the old pines around the bushes. In the case of the appearance of chlorosis due to rain, it is also necessary to add fertilizers containing iron and magnesium to the soil.

In the case of growing lilies in an inappropriate climatic zone, for example, South Asian hybrids in the zone with a short warm summer and a long period of climatic winter (3 months or more), there is a risk of plant death in the first winter due to a reduction in the growing season and winter how they are completely not adapted to a long period of rest.

Botritis, or gray rot

A common disease of lilies is botritis, or gray rot caused by a specific fungus, often settling on thickened and long-growing lily plantings in one place. The cause of infection can be prolonged rains or excessive watering of lilies, in which moisture and moisture remain on the leaves and flowers. In the first place at risk are hybrids derived from snow-white lilies, Henry lilies, Marchagon lilies and Daurian lilies. Signs of the disease are easy to identify visually. Initially, brown spots form on the leaves, rapidly increasing in diameter and becoming whitish. The disease 'spreads rapidly to the whole plant, the vegetation stops, the lily begins to dry in parts from top to bottom and dies, while the bulb remains alive (the fungus does not affect the bulbs). The next year, the lily grows again and, as a rule, is again affected by the fungus.

Control measures. The best means of combating gray rot - three times processing of lilies 1% solution of Bordeaux liquor and a solution of calcined soda (3-4 spoons on a bucket of water). At the end of summer, for prevention purposes, you should cut off the stems of lilies and burn them outside the garden: the fungus hibernates on the stems, so they can not be left on the flowerbed.

Fusarium in lilies

Another common disease of lilies is fusariosis. In fusariosis, in contrast to botrytis, lilies of lilies are primarily affected. At what the infection can occur even during storage of bulbs, at their mechanical damage or infringement of rules of storage. The disease is transmitted by spores located in the soil and retaining viability for up to three years. The external sign of bulb damage is the formation of rotting spots, usually near the bulb of the bulb, the disease progressing, so that the bulb loses the scales behind the scales and eventually decays completely.

Control measures.

In order to save bulbs of lilies with signs of minor damage, it is necessary to clean them

from the affected parts and treated with a fungicide, for example, foundation. Processed bulbs can be planted only on another part of the site - away from the place where the affected lily fungus grow. Strongly damaged bulbs must be burned. But in lilies in the middle of the growing season, the external sign of fusariosis is the yellowing and drying of the leaves in the lower part of the bush. In this case, it is necessary to wait until the end of the summer, dig out the bulbs and process them according to the scheme described above. Next year, a flowerbed with lilies will need to be laid in a new place.

Also, predisposing factors to the appearance of fusariosis is excessive soil moisture, its acidification, as well as an overabundance of nitrogen fertilizers.

One of the most common diseases of lilies is a viral mosaic. On the leaves there are bright spots, the plants grow weakly, the stems are bent, buds and flowers are formed ugly.

Control measures. Methods of treating the disease are unknown - infected lilies must be excavated and destroyed. Also for the prevention of viral mosaic, it is necessary to deal with aphids, mites, thrips, red beetles in time.

Lilium red beetle and aphids

Some insects are also able to cause significant damage to lilies. Among them, a lily red beetle and aphids.

Control measures. Fight with a beetle can be both mechanically (by collecting and destroying by hand), and with the help of chemical agents (means for combating the Colorado beetle). It is possible to fight effectively with aphids on lilies only with the help of special preparations aimed at fighting precisely this pest.

Lily useful properties

Among a large number of lilies, some species deservedly enjoy the reputation of medicinal plants.

One of these species is the lily tiger - it is used, in particular, for the manufacture of homeopathic medicines and in folk medicine. It is noteworthy that most of the preparations made from tiger lily are most used in the treatment of women's ailments, namely irritability, depressive states, chronic fatigue. Also, there is an opinion that lily-based preparations help women to find inner harmony, minimizing the consequences of contradictions in the character!

From the point of view of official medicine such a tiger lily is caused by a pronounced sedative effect, and also by the ability of the latter to normalize the hormonal balance. Therefore, you are always sad, feel depressed, burdened with unreasonable cares and responsibilities - preparations based on lily tiger just for you! Also, science notes the positive effect of preparations from the tiger lily on female reproductive organs, as well as the positive impact on people suffering from colds and diseases associated with circulatory disorders.

No less well known in folk medicine and white lily. Preparations made from various parts of white lily are able to treat skin diseases, heal wounds, soften, moisturize the skin and remove unwanted pigmentation. Ointments based on white lily are able to relieve pain in the joints, as well as headaches. Also, the decoction from the petals of the white lily can be used as a healing agent for stomatitis. This is all the more urgent in our time, since frequent stomatitis remaining without treatment is the cause of other diseases

For the treatment of stomatitis, pistils of white lilies are brewed in milk with the addition of sugar, insist and keep the broth in the mouth for 10-15 minutes. A white lily is also prepared with oil and alcohol infusions.

Oil infusion is prepared from leaves and lily flowers, filled with vegetable refined oil, preheated to a temperature of 70-80 ° C. This tincture should be a month infused into the direct sun and can subsequently be used as a skin care product.

The alcoholic tincture is prepared even easier: a container filled with half-chopped lily flowers is poured with vodka slightly more than half the capacity and is insisted for a month and a half.

Such a tincture can treat wounds, and also effectively combat acne and other skin diseases. Use this solution can also be in the form of lotion, previously diluted with water.

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Lilies - questions and answers

Formed last year, I have a girlfriend, an exquisite lady slightly post-Balzakova, a ceramist by profession and a new convert florist for passion. And she reads a lot and different, but some confusion over the news of hobbies in her mind has not yet dissipated.

That's why a lot of questions, sometimes unexpected, often apt, methodically written out on a separate sheet, with which it comes to me usually.

How to increase the winter hardiness of the Eastern Lilies, which fall out with an enviable regularity?

Unfortunately, they drop out more often simply because they are old, and not because they are frozen. This process is natural, and it has to be treated as a given. And the multiplication factor for lilies of this garden class is close to unity (bulbs practically

do not share). And the only thing we can do (if we don’t want to mess around with scales, and to propagate the bulbs with scales - this is not a quick process). - just quietly bribing new ones. Although there is a little kondovaya truth in slightly covering them for the winter, as winter hardiness weakens with age. So, sprinkling them in the winter for insulation with leaf or humus, we can add them a couple of years of life.

And why on the lily was 54 bud? Can you make the rest blossom so?

I'm afraid not. Such a huge number of buds and flowers, or rather, the ability to collect them is inherent in single varieties. And such a well-fed onion is capable of issuing this. In fact, this is a stem grown from several buds, which is why there are so many flowers on them. It can be seen that this stem is a ribbed ribbon. Next year, the same bulb is likely to bloom normally.

How to be with the second wave of flowering roses, does it weaken the bushes, they will not be prepared for frost? Maybe it's better to cut flowers?

With normal care, bloom does not weaken the rose bushes. On the contrary, cutting flowers, we provoke the growth of new shoots, which may not have time to mature and then freeze. Therefore, at the end of the summer, it is advised not even to be too zealous with cutting into bouquets.

Is it necessary to cut irrigation in August, again, in order not to "outnumber" the plants? Should I stop feeding for the same reason?

With watering everything is exactly the opposite, the lack of moisture is almost worse than its excess. In arboreal and shrub shoots grow worse in drought. Excess of moisture is harmful against the background of excess nitrogen or already late autumn, but this is a completely different story.

Lack of nutrition is also not good. Of course, in August they reduce the proportion of nitrogen in top dressing, but they significantly reduce it; there is no need to remove it completely, unless the soil is too "greasy". Favorite organists dung and herbal infusions in August can already be set aside. Do not like chemistry - use ash. There is potassium and some phosphorus, but do not forget that there is also a deoxidizing component. And a lot of calcium, which not all cultures love. But talking about top dressing, we find ourselves in the Procrustean bed of averaged recommendations. Still, according to the mind, the "diet" should be selected a little more targeted, depending on the culture and condition of the soil. Therefore, it is still better to use ready-made fertilizers, specially “sharpened” for crops and terms of application.

© E.Abrosimova

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Our Lilies

We live in Belarus, we work at an enterprise for the production of automatic drip irrigation systems for greenhouses. This equipment greatly facilitates the work of summer residents, they are also known in Ukraine. My wife and I also use it at our summer cottage. I especially like to grow flowers, they have quite a lot of space.

Under the windows there is a large bush of a tree-like hydrangea, a netting separating our site from a neighbor's garden, a stumpy rose was planted, and the lilies took center stage. For hydrangeas in Belarus, the ideal climate, therefore it grows quickly and always blooms very richly. Rosa pleases with flowering only once a year, but the aroma of her lovely flowers is so tender that she can forgive this defect. But we treat the lilies with special trepidation.

Although we come to the cottage only on weekends, lilies do not suffer from this. In our opinion, growing them is easy. With this case - even beginner growers can handle. It is only important to acquire healthy planting material. When buying, carefully inspect each bulb so that they do not have spots, damage, or mold. We plant lilies, depending on the time of acquisition of planting material - in the summer, spring or autumn.

A place for them needs a sunny. Our flower garden is located just on the south side of the house and is not shaded by trees. We plant the bulbs in rows, according to the scheme 30 × 30 cm (when planting it seems that this is quite rare, but lilies love the open space), to a depth equal to two bulb diameters. The soil on our site is fertile and holds moisture well, so when planting under the bulbs we pour a thin layer of sand.

In the first two years, the lily is not fed. We pour in the early morning directly under the root and only if necessary, in arid weather. We must make sure that there is no stagnation of water. In the natural and climatic conditions of Belarus and Ukraine, these flowers can hibernate without shelter.

The most important thing in growing lilies is regular weeding. If it is not possible to often remove weeds, you can cover the planting of lilies with mown grass, layer 10 see. Mulch not only prevents the growth of weeds, but also prevents the topsoil from drying out. We try to pluck flowers with your hands, and do not cut it with a knife (it is not always possible to break the lily with your hand, as a rule, you need a knife or a pruner, especially if it's powerful PO and LA hybrids). Here, in principle, and everything you need to know a budding floriculturist about growing lilies. They even have enough such minimal care. With all our employment and a rare visit to the dacha, the lilies blossom luxuriantly in our garden.

Zhanna and Igor Sychev, Minsk

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Lily at home

Blooming lily right in the house! It is quite possible! Special difficulties with its cultivation will not arise. Moreover, it is possible to regulate the periods of flowering and to receive beautiful buds for solemn family events.

Lily in the pot can be high {1,5 m) or in the form of a small compact bush (depends on the variety).

It is important to choose the right size of the pot. Landmark: for the 1,5-meter flower I take the container with a height of 35-40 cm. With the diameter of the pot 40 cm, you can plant no more than 4-bulbs {on each of them you need to plant an amount of 16 sq. Cm). Single landings are not entirely profitable due to the formation of a large number of children. And the lily will blossom in this case only in a few years - as soon as the pot volume is filled with onion cubs.

important points

It is important to choose the right seed material: the weight of a good bulb should be from 40 g; presence of living roots approximately 5 in length.

1. For growing in a pot I take lilies of oriental, dwarfish, Asian, royal and long-flowering varieties.
2. Before the bulbs stratify (keep in the refrigerator 15-20 days) at a temperature of + 5 deg.
3. Before planting the bulbs soak for 30 minutes in a pink solution of potassium permanganate (5 g per 10 L of water). Then dry it in the shade.

When is it better to plant lilies in a pot? In this issue there are no strict terms - any season of the year is suitable. If you set a goal to decorate the balcony in the summer, plant the bulbs in March (the second decade). And in the second half of May they will please you with beautiful flowering! Later terms of budding will require you to repeat planting with a two-week interval. Do you want flowers in December? Then plan the planting works at the end of September.

© Author: Natalia STRAZDAUSKENE

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Growing lilies - mistakes in care

When in the distant 1990-ies I began to deal with flowers, I had no experience, no teachers, no suitable literature. Therefore, I had to pour a lot of cones myself before something began to work out. I want to tell you about some of my mistakes, so that they will not be repeated by those who have just started learning the basics of floriculture.

1. SURFACE MOUNTAINS

I bought the first lilies in early March. Planting them in the open ground was too early, and I put the bulbs in the refrigerator. One of them was with a rather large sprout. And then I made the first mistake.

Having pulled the onion out of the refrigerator, I planted it in a pot, and so that the sprout was above the soil level. Then, when the weather conditions allowed, I planted all the bulbs in the ground. Soon the lilies rose and grew rapidly. But the one from the pot seemed to be frozen. Then the lilies began to bloom. Everyone bloomed except the one in the pot. She remained small and somehow tortured. She did not bloom the next year. Only when I transplanted it (the bulb was small, not at all like the one that I once bought) did it bloom. Now I know for sure: the landing depth is a very important point, it cannot be neglected. The bulb should be planted to a depth of approximately 3 of its diameters. The presence of a sprout should not change anything, it can be completely covered with soil, the main thing is not to break it.

2. AUTUMN LANDING OF LUKOVITS WITH SPROUTS

In the autumn I bought bulbs with large sprouts. Very attracted me is the low price. The seller cheered: "Dig in deeper, and everything will be fine." Since in the near future a trip to the dacha was not planned, I decided to plant the bulbs in large containers and leave them on the balcony (buckets resembled capacity). The planting was carried out according to all the rules, the shoots fell asleep, literally a day later the sprouts appeared above the ground. I fell asleep again, and they appeared again. Then I stopped competing with them and left the lilies alone. When the cold came, she brought the tanks home. Some lilies blossomed in a month, one pleased with the bloom for Christmas, and several pieces were "blind." The whole story pleased me only by the fact that I did not land bulbs with sprouts at the end of autumn directly into the ground. In fact then they for certain would be lost. I do not buy bulbs with sprouts in autumn.

3. COLD ON BALCONY

I decided to plant lilies at home again so that they bloom in winter or early spring. To do this, I selected large bulbs (I did this at the end of August when transplanting Asian hybrids that bloomed in June), planted them in buckets and left them on the balcony. The plan was as follows: in winter I will take them from the balcony, put them in a bright place, start pouring warm water, they wake up faster and bloom faster. But my plans were not destined to come true - all my bulbs, which hibernated perfectly in the open field, froze safely on the balcony. The conclusion is this: if you want to do forcing, containers with bulbs must be lowered into the basement.

4. "DEEP" OF SHELTERS ON ZIMU

No need to cover lilies for the winter. Bulbs in the ground are not afraid of frost, but excessive moisture, condensation that accumulates under unventilated shelters can harm them. Lilies need dry wintering. And it is very easy to arrange it - you need to put caps made of plastic bags, inverted buckets over the plants, or simply cover it with pieces of roofing material, slate, etc., and in early spring do not forget to remove all these structures.

5. RED BULBS-HE PAINS

In the spring on its lilies I found very nice red beetles. I did not touch them, but they ate my flowers, and even left voracious larvae, which spoiled the plants completely. It turned out that I admired the onion cracker, and this is a pretty dangerous pest for lilies. It is necessary to fight the cracking with insecticides.

In general, lilies are very viable, hardy and grateful plants. With a minimum of attention and care, they are pleased with their flowering for a long time.

© Author: Irina ROMANENKO, Vinnitsa

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Lily - useful properties and recipes of application

In my flower garden a beautiful plant has been growing for a long time - a white lily. During flowering, it exudes a pleasant, rich aroma.

But this plant also has remarkable healing properties and the ability to maintain beauty. During flowering, its beautiful snow-white petals are collected (they are required very little). And lily bulbs can be harvested in both autumn and early spring. Here are a few recipes that I use myself.

Mask for velvet skin

Pour in 2 art. l. fresh crushed petals of white lily with a glass of boiling water. Leave to stand for about an hour. Strain. 2 st. l. oatmeal flour diluted with the resulting infusion to get a messy mass. Add the 1 tsp to the resulting gruel. honey, 1 egg yolk, stir. Apply mask to cleansed, steamed skin for half an hour, rinse with warm water. Then wipe the skin with the remaining infusion of lily. This mask nourishes and moisturizes the skin, increases its elasticity and elasticity, and the infusion of lily whitens the skin. After applying the mask, the skin will become velvety and tender.

Lotion for problem skin

Fill a third of a liter jar of dark glass with crushed white lily flowers. Pour up with alcohol. Insist about two weeks. The resulting lotion can be wiped with greasy, inflamed skin with acne (previously diluting the alcohol tincture in equal proportions with boiled water) or pinpoint pryshchiki and inflammation, apply a cotton disc, soaked in lotion, to abscesses and pustules.

Juice for discoloration

Squeeze out the juice from two bulbs of white lily. Mix with 1 tsp. lemon juice and 2 tsp. juice of parsley. Lubricate the skin with pigmented areas of the skin, traces of post-acne (skin changes due to a lingering acne), freckles.

Oil for healing

Half a liter jar of dark glass filled with petals of white lily and pour olive, linseed or peach butter (to choose from). Insist for three weeks in a dark place. The resulting oil lubricate very dry areas of the skin, irritated and damaged skin, seizures and cracks in the corners of the lips, dry, cracked skin of hands (which often happens after working in the garden and vegetable garden). Oil also heals wounds and burns on the skin.

Based on this recipe, you can make oil for massage, treatment of back pain: in 1 a glass of white lily oil, add 1 drops of essential oils of fir, eucalyptus, pine, cloves. The resulting composition can rub the aching joints, do massage with back pain.

Boil two bulbs of white lily for 10-15 min in 1 L of water. Strain. The resulting broth can rinse the sore throat, previously adding a glass of decoction of 1 tsp. honey. The broth has an analgesic, expectorant and antimicrobial effect, so it can be consumed inside by coughing, bronchitis. For ingestion 1 st. l. decoction and 1 tsp. Honey diluted in a glass of boiled water and drink, dividing into 3 intake (inside only use after consulting a doctor).

Council

Kashitsu from the boiled bulb of white lily apply to inflammations on the skin, furuncles, non-healing wounds.

Julia S. KUPINA

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If the lilies are sick?

Lilies this year are as disappointing as ever. Some do not bloom at all, leaves dry, they do not grow. On the other - traces of pests: I can not understand whether it is bugs, or remnants of them. What to do with lilies, can they help?

Olga Lobova

The root cause of this state of lilies was, of course, frost. The temperature in April days sometimes dropped to -9 degrees, and the shoots of the lilies were already on the surface of the earth. They had to be covered with at least a tight spunbond and held until such time until a positive temperature was established.

But who knew that the spring this year will be presented with a surprise for the surprise. Immediately after frosts, it was necessary to carry out foliar top dressing with phosphorus and potassium, spray plants "Epin" (according to instructions). All this must be done now, so that the plants are restored. As a result, weakened lilies are the target of pest attack, they are affected by viral and fungal diseases.

Pay attention!

Of the fungal diseases, gray rot is the most dangerous, it is easy to identify by the round brown spots on the leaves, which are transformed into a mucous tissue with a gray bloom. Summer rainy cold weather contributes to its spread. At the first signs, plantings are treated with solutions of Bordeaux liquid, "Fundazol" or "Oxychoma".

Dangerous and fusariosis, when rot affects the bottom of the bulb. Now diagnose the disease is impossible, and if you do not take any measures, the result will be the death of the bulb in the autumn-winter period. Sprinkle lilies for prophylaxis with "Fundazol".

As never before this summer the onion and lily beetles, which in the people are still called cracks, became more active. To protect themselves from birds, they envelop the body with their excrement (the very blackness on the leaves you are writing about) and birds do not pay any attention to them (in the photo).

They must be destroyed manually or by spraying the affected lilies with herbal infusion of wormwood wormwood. Leaves of the grass are picked in the flowering period and fill them with a bucket. Pour water at room temperature. Insist for 24 hours, then boil for half an hour on low heat. Dilute with water (1: 1) and sprinkle.

Raisa Rutkovskaya, a lily breeder, Mogilev. Photo by Tatyana Sanchuk

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Lilium land folium - information from the "Encyclopedia of Flowers"

Description.

This we all know the tiger lily - bulbous plant up to 1,5 m. The leaves are sessile, lanceolate, located on well-leafed, slightly pubescent stems. Flowers beautiful chalmovidioi form, drooping, with characteristic spots on the inside of the petals, can reach 9 cm in diameter.

In the inflorescence can be up to 30 flowers. They blossom in the middle of summer, and beautiful flowering lasts for a month. There are varieties with yellow flowers, salmon-orange and fiery-red.

Agrotechnics.

This lily is rather unpretentious, in our conditions it is winter-hardy and does not require shelter. It is better to plant it in an open area, protected from the wind. The soil prefers loose, fresh, fertile, weakly acidic or neutral. Completely does not tolerate areas with excessive moisture. Bulbs need to be planted in autumn to a depth of 15-17 cm.

Reproduction.

Propagates by bulbs that bloom for the third year.

Using.

This beautiful, touching lily to find a place in the summer cottage is easy. Unlike her pompous crystal-flowered relatives, the lanceoliferous lily looks organically in any garden. It is good in itself, planted in small groups.

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LILY: RULES OF SPRING LANDING

Lilia can not admire. But in order for them to grow, bloom and smell, you need to know a number of secrets. One of them is that without a transplant (once in 4-5 years) flowers degenerate.

Right place

Lily bulbs soot and transplant in spring and autumn. But there are strict rules: transplanting a late-flowering golden lily and Henry's lily at the beginning of the season. But the North American and Caucasian lilies are best planted from the second half of August to mid-September. In the spring of bulbs I plant from the last decade of April to the beginning of May (it is important to complete the transplant before the buds appear). I bought bulbs with small shoots in early spring in several layers of a newspaper and keep them in the fridge before planting. If the sprouts are tall, temporarily plant the bulbs in a flower pot, and after the disappearance of the threat of frost, I carefully roll over the hole in the garden.

An experienced florist told me that the sun is important for lilies at dawn and in the morning. I also take into account the color of flowers: for example, my luxurious black lilies quickly fade in the sun. In hot summer, the bulbs suffer from overheating, so I plant lilies next to low plants. The best soil is loose loam (I add neutral peat and sand in equal parts to the eye). Under digging (to a depth of 40 cm) on 1 sq. I am introducing a bucket of loose humus, a couple of glasses of wood ash and a complex mineral fertilizer for flowers (according to the instructions). Fresh manure and semi-decomposed compost are not suitable!

Distance between the bulbs:

• dwarf lilies —15 cm;
• tall varieties of Oriental and Asian hybrids - 50 cm;
• tubular lilies - see 35-40

There is one detail: young onions are better planted on less nutritious soil. In the future, the balance will make up feeding.

LANDING

At the bottom of the holes I pour a small layer of sand. Lilies, which have developed supralucaceous (stem) roots, plant 15-25 to depth. See Lilies with sub-mitral roots — on 5-10. See White-lined candidate candidum is sunk only 3-5 cm, and I warm it in the winter, I warm it, and in the winter I warm it, I warm it, I fold on the XNUMX-XNUMX cm, and I warm it in the winter to warm it, I warm it in XNUMX-XNUMX cm, and in the winter I warm it, I warm it, I warm it in the winter, I warm it on XNUMX-XNUMX cm, and in the winter I warm it, I warm it, I warm it and I wrap it in the winter, I warm it on XNUMX-XNUMX, and I warm it in the winter to warm it.

Buying a new onion, I do not always know what type of root system it has. Then follow the rule: the depth of planting the bulb is equal to its tripled height.

© Author: Maria ANASHINA, Moscow Region

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Lily - a symbol of perfection

The long flowering period, the delightful scent and charm of its flowers, can beautify any garden. Although September and October are considered the optimal timing for planting and transplanting lilies in the middle lane, they are very often planted in spring. And it is at the beginning of summer that they need our care.

Firstly

Special attention at the beginning of the season requires tubular hybrids. A flower bud is laid in May, a year before flowering. In the same period, the flower stalk of this year begins to grow and flowers form on its top. Therefore, in addition to the obligatory complex top dressing, they also need potassium phosphate fertilizers.

Need to know

Plants planted in fresh soil, seasoned with organic matter, in the first year or two, you can not feed. In the future, top dressing with mineral complex fertilizers (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) with trace elements, preferably in liquid form, is required. In the period when green buds appear, you can pour lilies with a solution of magnesium sulfate, this improves the color of the flower. After flowering, for the full development of the bulbs, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are necessary (all according to the instructions).

If necessary, the plant can be transplanted in spring and summer during flowering (do not injure the root system).

But the lily is able to grow in one place for several years, and frequent transplants can slow its development. Therefore, the place for this beauty must be chosen carefully so that the next 3-4 years do not disturb the plant.

Organic feeding of lilies does not tolerate - they contribute to the appearance and spread of various fungal diseases! But they will be grateful for the introduction of wood ash, which will protect them from pests.

No to diseases and pests!

With the onset of heat on plants, you can see lily-beetles. These insects are able to eat not only leaves, but also flowers and plant stems. They are collected manually or shaken in a container. Some gardeners use chemicals: Inta-Vir, Decis, Kinmiks - everything that is suitable for the destruction of the Colorado potato beetle.

In summer, it is necessary to pay attention to the prevention of fungal diseases: botritis and fusarium. Botritis quickly spreads in rainy cold weather, when the leaves do not have time to dry by night. Sudden changes in temperature also affect. As a result, brown spots appear on the leaves and buds, which gradually grow, which leads to early drying of the plants.

For the prevention of the disease, it is necessary to remove all plant debris, not to thicken the planting, and also to process the lilies with copper-containing preparations (HOM) and the Fitosporin biofungicide during the growing season. Waterlogging of the soil can cause the appearance of root rot, fusarium.

BTW

FOR PREVENTION OF DISEASES, ABOUT THREE TIMES A YEAR, LILIES ARE sprayed with a solution of 1% - NOAW BORODE LIQUID.

Where are they comfortable?

Asian lilies, tubular, Orleans, OT hybrids feel great both in the open sun and with little shading. Lily Henry, as well as L. Hanson, curly-haired, Canadian, two-row, Caucasian prefer partial shade. The landing site should be protected from strong winds, but at the same time well ventilated. Plants feel great if their upper part is basking in the sun, and the “legs” are in the shade, the bulb does not overheat.

Soil acidity for lilies

Asian, American and Eastern hybrids prefer slightly acidic soils and respond well to the introduction of peat with humus. For lilies requiring soil with a slightly alkaline reaction (tubular. L. snow-white. Henry, royal, Shovitsa, single-shot, curly and their hybrids), it is necessary to add wood ash 150-200 g / sq. Or bone meal 20-50 g / sq. .m.

© Author: Natalya GRIGORIUK, Section Chairman of the Regional Public Organization “Club“ Moscow Flower Growers ”. Photo by Zoya NOVIKOVA

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Lilies from buds

I love it very much when there are many flowering lilies in the garden. I like to propagate them in an unusual way.

Usually, in August and early September, buds are formed in the tiger lily in the axils of the leaves, they are also called bulbs. They are 4-8 mm in diameter, when ripe, they have adventitious roots and are easily detached from the stem.

It is better to collect them yourself, rather than wait for a rash on the ground - then they will sprout in the most inappropriate places.

Preparation of beds

For the new generation of "tiger cubs" I prepare the bed in advance. I loosen the soil on a shovel bayonet, moisten it a little and add half a bucket of humus per square meter with the addition of a complex mineral fertilizer (about 1 g of ammonium nitrate, 40 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate each). Across the bed I make grooves 10-3 cm deep with a distance of 5-15 cm between them. I fill their bottom with fine river sand to a third of the depth.

Secrets of planting lilies

I plant air bulbs not densely - with a distance in a row of up to 6 cm, deepening by 5-7 cm.

I compact the soil a little, be sure to spill it (the drier the site, the more water is needed) and mulch it with peat chips with rotted sawdust (1: 1).

Before planting (at the end of August-September), I soak the bulbs for an hour and a half in a 0% solution of Fundazole (you can disinfect it for about half an hour in a 2% pink solution of potassium permanganate).

Note

Spring shoots of tiger lilies are bright, viable! And this is proof that bulb breeding is an affordable and effective method.

For the winter, although the planting material is very frost-resistant, I additionally cover the garden with spruce branches.

© Author: Victor ROSSIYSKIY

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There will be lilies in abundance

Lilies are flowers that rarely upset their fans. Blossom ^ -beautifully, the flowers are not small, moreover, caring for them does not require large costs. That is why many flower growers, carried away by such a culture, want the plantings of stately plants to only multiply. Let's see how you can get new lily plants from a flower shoot.

CUTTING OF LILIES

And it's pretty simple to do it. But first you need to wait for the plant to bloom. This method can even be applied if you were presented with lilies in a bouquet.

So what do you need? As soon as the lily has faded, cut off almost all of its shoot with leaves and peduncles. Do not forget to only leave a stump with a height of 15-20 cm, which will allow you to easily find your favorites in the garden in the spring. And the stems of flowers from a bouquet should only be shortened by 5 cm.

Then, dig a shallow groove in the shaded part of the garden - no more than 2 cm - for the length of the cut shoot. Make sure the land is rich, loose and light. Then lay the stem in this groove, and cover it with earth on top. After planting, spill the lily with a growth stimulant such as Epin-extra or Zircon.

It will be ideal if you immediately install low arcs above the landings, on

which are attached with lutrasil or film. A couple of months will pass, and small tender bulbs will appear on the stem along its entire length, which do not need to be disturbed until spring. It is worth recalling that watering in the greenhouse should be regular, but at the same time moderate, in order to prevent drying out and not cause water stagnation and waterlogging.

On the eve of cold weather, planting must be mulched with humus or peat. In this case, frosts will not be able to harm the delicate bulbs.

Note

Cutting lilies can also be done in a city apartment if you use oblong flower boxes. True, in such conditions it is more difficult to provide the plantings with the coolness and humidity they need so much.

With the arrival of spring, and it will be next year, the bulbs can be planted in a permanent place. Growing lilies from cuttings does not require special skills and abilities, and even a novice amateur gardener can perform these simple operations. You only need diligence and attention when performing these agrotechnical techniques.

TAKE THE LEAVES FROM THE LILIES

Lilies can also be propagated using leaves. During the period of bud formation, you need to pluck several leaves with a base from the upper part of the stem and plant them, deepening half the length. The leaves are planted upright in containers with holes. The containers are filled with loose soil, and on top - with wet river sand.

This method can be safely applied to such varieties of lilies as Regale, snow-white Tiger and others, which are characterized by slow growth of bulbs.

After planting the leaves, the box should be placed in a plastic bag, which must be removed to dry every day so that condensation does not collect. After a month at the base of the leaves, tiny bulbs will appear. This is a signal that the package can be removed. If the plantings remain to winter in the garden, they should be covered with fallen leaves. And the next year, prepare a place for a large number of lily bulbs.

It is worth noting that it will take several years to grow it to get an adult bulb.

Note

Lily is capable of blooming in numerous buds. This phenomenon is called fasciation and occurs due to mechanical damage to the shoots, overfeeding of plants with fertilizers, as well as abnormal weather conditions.

© Author: Elena Fedorovna KUDRITSKAYA

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LILYS: LUXURY CARE AND GRATITUDE - FLOWERING

In my flower garden there was a place for a variety of representatives of the lily kingdom. I grow Asian, long-flowered, LA and LO hybrids, but I have a special love for OT hybrids and tubular lilies.

FAVORITE LILY VARIETIES

OT hybrids are obtained as a result of cross-pollination of Tubular and Oriental hybrids (they are also called “Orienpets”). They are beautiful, stately, often human-sized, have strong powerful stems and huge funnel-shaped flowers that can both droop and look up. Let me briefly describe some of my favorite varieties:

High Tea (Hi Ti) is distinguished by very large flowers (about 25 cm in diameter). Up to 30 inflorescences can form on one stem (pictured above). The height of the plant is about 1,2 m (sometimes it grows up to 2 m). The flowers are beautiful, with a rich yellow center.

Donato (Donato) - bright pink flowers with a diameter of 20 cm with a pleasant aroma. The stems are strong, up to 120 cm high.

Honeymoon (Honeymoon) - a lily with flowers with a diameter of about 25 cm. The color of the flowers is white with a yellow center and a honey tint. Slightly corrugated petals give them a special zest.

Carbonero (Carbonero) has a rich wine-lilac color of flowers, in certain lighting it acquires a purple-cherry hue.

Pearpl Prince (Ash Prince) - a lily with large (25 cm in diameter) flowers of burgundy-violet color, the petals are slightly twisted. Height - about 1,5 m.

Lifestyle (Lifestyle) - large, wide-cupped flowers of deep pink color with white edging on the petals. The height of the lily is 1,3-2,5 m, the diameter of the flower is 24 cm.

The tubular lilies also delight me. They were bred as a result of crossing Asian species with a tubular flower shape and Henry's lily. Tubular hybrids are whimsical, love warmth and sun, and may suffer from recurrent frosts.

The plants are tall, the shape of the flower is different - elongated, star-shaped, cup-shaped. They usually have a strong aroma.

MY FAVORITE VARIETIES:

Royal Gold (Royal Gold) - bright yellow flowers with a golden hue and a pleasant, strong aroma with a diameter of 18-20 cm (5-8 flowers in an inflorescence). Plant height - 90-100 cm.

African Queen (African Queen) - flowers are creamy-orange in color, fragrant, reach 16 cm in diameter, collected in inflorescences of 5 pieces. It grows up to 0,8-1,2 m in height.

Golden Splendour (Golden Splendor) - a stunning variety with bright yellow, gracefully sloping down flowers. The height of the lily is 1,2 m, the diameter of the flower is 20 cm.

FEATURES OF CARE OF LILYS

For lush flowering and good development, I feed my lilies during the budding period with nitrophoska (30 g per 10 liters of water). I do not feed during flowering.

After flowering, lilies begin to prepare for the upcoming winter, stocking up on nutrients. Therefore, at the end of August, it is desirable to feed them with potash-phosphorus fertilizers. I use superphosphate and potassium magnesia for these purposes (in 10 liters of water I dissolve 1 tablespoon of double superphosphate and 1,5 tablespoons of potassium magnesia, the irrigation rate is a bucket per sq.m).

In late autumn, I cover the freezing soil above the lily bulbs with compost with a layer of 10 cm (in winter it will serve as a warming protection).

During intensive growth, budding and flowering, lilies need moisture, but even after flowering, watering should not be forgotten, because the bulb accumulates nutrients. The top layer of soil, where many lilies have supra-bulbous roots, should not dry out. I water the lilies under the root, so as not to contribute to the development of fungal diseases.

After flowering, I pinch off the formed ovaries so that the plant does not waste nutrients on the ripening of the fruit to the detriment of the growth of the bulb.

I don’t cut the stems of faded lilies to the very ground, I don’t interrupt the process of nutrients entering the bulbs, I give them the opportunity to fully mature and prepare for winter. I wait until autumn and only then remove the stems.

PURCHASING BULBS AND PLANTING

Our summer is now warm, the autumn is long, in September the temperature often exceeds 25°C. Therefore, I plant lilies not in August, but later. I try to do it before the end of September - beginning of October, depending on weather conditions.

Bulbs acquire large, dense, with intact scales and live roots. I don’t buy soft, as well as overdried, without roots, strongly sprouted, no matter how beautiful the variety is.

When choosing bulbs for autumn planting, I refuse those on which sprouts have appeared (it is better to plant such bulbs in spring).

If I see some very beautiful, desirable variety for sale, but I understand that it’s too late for planting, I put the bulbs in bags, sprinkled with wet peat or sand, and put them in a cool place (I store at a temperature not lower than 0 ° C).

For planting lilies, I choose a flat, sunny area, protected from cold winds, but well ventilated. This helps to avoid high humidity, which contributes to the defeat of plants with gray rot. However, for martagon lilies, I allocate a place in partial shade (they develop better there).

I prepare the soil for planting lilies in advance. I mix the upper fertile layer with coarse-grained river sand and compost (a bucket per sq.m).

For lilies that develop well on slightly acidic soils, I add coniferous litter, and for those who prefer alkaline soils, I add wood ash.

Lilies of different garden groups require different soil acidity. So, Asian, long-flowered, oriental lilies will develop well on neutral and slightly acidic soil, martagon and tubular - on neutral and slightly alkaline, candidum - on alkaline. For candidum, martagon and tubular lilies, it is better to use leaf humus with the addition of ash or dolomite flour as mulch (the thickness of the mulch layer is 3-4 cm).

Before planting the bulbs, I must disinfect them: I keep them in the Maxim preparation. You can use for these purposes and a strong solution of potassium permanganate.

I plant the bulbs to a depth equal to three bulb heights. On heavy soils, bulbs can be planted smaller, on light and loose soils - deeper.

At the bottom of the hole I pour sand so that a small mound is obtained. I put a bulb on it, straighten its roots, fill it with sand, and then with a fertile mixture. The distance between the bulbs in a row is 20-25 cm (between the tubular ones - 35-40 cm, 10-15 cm - between the undersized ones).

To protect the bulbs from freezing in late autumn, I sprinkle the soil with humus or dry foliage with a layer of 10-20 cm. I do not cover Asian and LA hybrids, they are the most cold-resistant.

© Author: Yulia Kupina, Belgorod region. Photo from the album of the author

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LILY: RULES OF SPRING LANDING

Have you been dreaming of a flowerbed with lilies for a long time, but still do not dare to decorate your site with graceful plants? But this royally exquisite flower does not require professional care. You just need to follow some rules.

In order not to doubt the quality of planting material, I buy bulbs only from trusted flower growers or in large stores. I choose healthy strong specimens without visible damage.

THE RIGHT PLACE

When choosing a landing site, I take into account that lilies need sun only at dawn and in the morning. I also pay attention to the color (for example, black and other dark, deep colors flowers quickly fade in the sun). The best soil is loose loam. I dig the soil to a depth of 40 cm and bring in a bucket of humus per 1 sq.m, 2 tbsp. ash and complex mineral fertilizer (according to instructions).

LANDING

In early May, when the soil warms up enough, I prepare the lilies for planting. For large bulbs (6-7 cm high) I dig holes 20-25 cm deep, for smaller specimens -10-15 cm. At the bottom of each recess I pour 1 tbsp. sand.

DISTANCE BETWEEN BULBS:

• dwarf lilies - 15 cm;
• tall varieties of Oriental and Asian hybrids - 50 cm;
• tubular lilies - see 35-40

WATERING

When waterlogged, the bulbs rot, so be extremely careful with watering. Even in hot summers, I water lilies every 5 days in the evening. Usually I spend 3-4 liters of warm settled water per plant.

DIGGING AND STORAGE

Once every 2 years at the end of August I dig up lily bulbs. I do this with a pitchfork, because with a shovel they can be easily damaged. I leave about 3-4 cm of the stem above each bulb, and cut off the rest. I put the lilies in a wooden box and sprinkle with dry sawdust. I store planting material in a cellar or other cool place. I check bulbs from time to time. If one of them begins to rot, I throw it away without delay, otherwise the entire collection will suffer.

DO NOT APPLY FRESH MANURE AND SEMI-DECOMPOSED COMPOST WHEN PLANTING LILYS!

© Author: Natalya ANDREEVA

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AMAZING LILY

I love the plant for the variety of shapes and colors of buds. long and abundant flowering. I often replenish my still small collection with new beauties that emit a delicious aroma.

LANDING AND CARE

I grow lilies in different parts of the garden: among shrubs and under trees.

I plant bulbs in spring or autumn before frost, from September to mid-October.

I choose a sunny or semi-shady elevated place without drafts, with loose fertile soil.

Before planting, I dig the soil to a depth of 30-35 cm, adding humus, dolomite flour and urea to it.

I'm looking at planting material. I reject damaged, wrinkled and rotten specimens.

To protect lilies from mice and moles, I plant bulbs in plastic bottles. At the containers I cut off the top and bottom, leaving the middle part (about 15 cm). I dig holes, insert plastic containers into them, lower an onion into each cut bottle and cover it with earth. I compact the soil inside the "vessel" and around it.

In the spring, before the shoots appear, I feed the plants with Bud (10 g / 10 l of water). After the growth of greenery and during budding - fertilizer "Flower" (1 tablespoon / 10 liters of water). I spray before flowering with the drug "Oxyx" (20 g / 10 l of water).

I always water the bushes only at the root to avoid infection with gray rot.

After moistening, I loosen the soil and weed out the weeds.

ADVICE SPECIALIST

Lilies can grow in different garden lighting. It has been noticed that in an open, well-lit area, the color of the petals is more saturated, but they fade faster, the flowering period is reduced. And in partial shade, the color of the flowers is less bright, but the duration of flowering is longer and the petals do not lose their rich shade.

It is worth adding dolomite flour to the soil during planting only if the soil in the area is acidic. With nitrogen fertilizers, you also need to be careful. If you overdo it with the dosage, the lilies will actively increase the green mass to the detriment of flowering.

In the spring, it is important to have time to plant the bulbs before the onset of extreme heat, when there is still enough moisture in the soil, and in the fall - at least a couple of weeks before the onset of frost.

Mice and moles can really harm lilies. Hope uses reliable protection, and therefore pests are not afraid of bulbs.

Nikolai CHROMOV, Cand. s / h Sciences, Michurinsk

© Author: Nadezhda STEPANOVA, Povorino, Voronezh region.

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