Growing cabbage broccoli seedlings and seedlings
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To ensure that broccoli does not overgrow and become stiff
For three years now I have been sowing broccoli seedlings. But after transplanting to the garden, plants quickly produce long stiff stems (pictured). I tried to plant broccoli later - in July, and it seems that the heads began to be tied, but then the plants still went into the stem. Tell me, what am I doing wrong? Angelina Y. ZINEVICH, Brest region, Beloozersk
We think that there are two reasons: too early planting time and random varieties, which most likely do not suit your conditions. Even early flowering contribute to damage to plants by a cabbage fly.
Sorts
For our country, the following varieties and broccoli hybrids are recommended for cultivation: Green Magic, Caesar, Batavia and Ironman.
Biological features of broccoli
Broccoli is less demanding than cauliflower to growing conditions. The optimum temperature for its development is 16-25 degrees. Late-ripening varieties withstand temperatures of 7-10 degrees. On cold autumn days, plants retain marketable qualities for a long time.
Tip:
The best precursors for broccoli cabbage are early potatoes, pumpkin cultures, bow, tomato. It should not be placed after plants of the cabbage family.
This cabbage grows well on any land, but does not tolerate acid soils. Lime is better to make under the previous crops or in the fall. Direct application of large doses of lime can cause a sharp lack of boron, which will lead to a decrease in yield and product quality.
High yields of broccoli give only with thorough and deep cultivation of the soil. With a prolonged lack of moisture reduces the yield, the plants become brittle, woody.
Technology of broccoli growing
Cabbage broccoli is grown on fertile, rapidly warmed in spring, light and medium loamy, structural, with a deep arable horizon and well-endowed with moisture soils.
Under broccoli, plots filled with manure or compost in the spring are reserved. The approximate dose of organic fertilizer is 4 kg / sq. m. If phosphorus-potassium fertilizers were not applied in the fall, it must be done in the spring. Ammonium nitrate is added to the site - 60-30 g / sq. m (a third of nitrogen fertilizers are applied in April, and the rest is used for feeding), superphosphate and potassium sulfate - 30-40 g / sq. m. Then the earth is deeply dug up and leveled with a rake.
Reference by topic: Cabbage kohlrabi - growing and care
Seed preparation and broccoli seeding
Sowing is performed by calibrated seeds with germination capacity of at least 90-95%. For prevention against fungal diseases, they are treated in hot water for 18-20 min at a temperature of 48-50 degrees, followed by rapid cooling in cold water 2-3 min and dried to flowability.
Broccoli can be grown in seedling and seedling methods, but in practice the first option is usually used. The rate of seeding in the soil with the seedling method is 0,4 g / 10 square meters. m, and with direct sowing in open ground - 1 g per 10 square meters. m
Sowing seeds for seedlings is carried out in 3-4 terms with an interval of 12-15 days: for early summer crops - March 15-April 15, for summer - April 15 -
To form dense inflorescences, the optimum air temperature is 16-25 degrees. It is impossible to tolerate the effects of low temperatures (2-8 degrees) during the germination of seeds, which subsequently leads to stalking of the plants even before the inflorescence is tied.
15 June, for summer-autumn -15 June -1 July. This ensures the possibility of continuous consumption of cabbage. At the same time seeding seeds for seedlings in the second and third decades of July no longer allows you to obtain a commodity crop.
When growing seedlings, the seeds are planted to a depth of 0,5 cm. Before emergence (it takes 2-3 days), the air temperature is maintained at 20-22 degrees, then it is reduced to 10-12 in the afternoon and 8-10 in the night. The optimum temperature for growing seedlings is 20-22 degrees during the day and 12 at night. This mode is a good prophylaxis of plant stalking after planting in the ground.
Transplanting broccoli seedlings a permanent place
Seedlings are planted in a permanent place if it has 5-6 true leaves in the following periods: early culture - April 25 - May 1, summer-May 25 - June 1, summer-autumn culture - July 25 - August 5. The optimal age of seedlings is 35-45 days, and overgrown plants give poor-quality heads.
Growing seedlings, planting it in the open ground, caring for plants are similar to early and mid-day white cabbage. Seedlings are planted according to the scheme 50-60 * 20-30 see.
During the season, 1-2 carries out manual weeding from weed plants. During the vegetation period, the crops are watered 5-6 times by sprinkling over 20-25 l of water at 1 sq. M. m.
Broccoli pests and control measures
Cruciferous fleas are the most dangerous pest of broccoli. Usually immediately after sowing, the ridge is covered with a spunbond. When a pest occurs, the plants are dusted with limestone, tobacco dust and ash. In the literature, information has appeared on the high efficiency of acetic acid against this pest. We need to dilute 1 art. l. 70% acetic acid in 10 l of water and treat this solution with sprays by spraying. Very often during the formation of inflorescences on plants, you can see cabbage moth caterpillars. To conduct chemical treatments at this time is inexpedient. It is best to use herbal preparations, for example, based on tobacco.
Reference by topic: Colored cabbage and broccoli - cultivation, varieties, care, properties
Cleaning broccoli
Broccoli is harvested as it reaches technical maturity selectively 65-70 days after transplanting. The formed heads should not be overexposed: they become loose, and their taste deteriorates. Harvesting broccoli is best in the cool time - early in the morning or late in the evening (then it remains longer).
Cut the formed heads (when they are tightly closed) with a diameter of 15-20 cm with the inflorescences not yet begun to disperse. Rosettes are cut out gradually, as far as they reach market ripeness, but buds should be closed and dense.
In hot weather, cleaning is carried out every 2-3 days, preventing the appearance of yellow flowers, in cloudy and damp - once every 7-10 days. Rosettes are cut with a piece of fleshy stem 20-25 cm long. After the main outlet has been cut, the side ones develop faster. Eating sockets eat with a piece of stem. Continue cleaning as the main and side outlets grow. The yield of broccoli is 5-6 kg / sq. m. The productivity of one plant ranges from 0,1 to 1 kg.
Storing broccoli - how right?
To increase the shelf life of the head, it is recommended to clean it in a cooled state and immediately wrap it in a food film. After cleaning, they are quickly sold or placed in refrigerators, which protects the heads from yellowing. For storage, it is better to lay the heads in the maturity phase if there are any covering leaves.
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Cabbage has been very good this year, especially the broccoli harvest. For several years of its cultivation, I noted a number of points.
Broccoli loves loose and nutritious soil.
In hot summers, it grows better on black soil, and in cool, richer crops are obtained on sandy loam soil.
Broccoli does not like heat, so at the initial stage, it is better to shade seedlings with spunbond.
If you want to get a high yield, you will have to feed it regularly, because you need to give the plants the opportunity to gain strength. I add humic fertilizer diluted according to the instructions to the solution of chicken manure (1:20).
Excellent Brussels sprouts have also grown this year. It turned out to be easy to get her harvest (care - as for all cabbage), only she has the longest growing period. The heads of cabbage became dense only with the first frost.
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In order not to waste time on rearing seedlings, seeds of late white cabbage are sown immediately to the bed to a depth of up to 3 cm.
As soon as seedlings appear, I dust them with wood ash from cruciferous fleas. Two weeks after the emergence of seedlings I feed the plants with a solution of superphosphate (30 g per 10 L of water) and potassium sulfate (15 g per 10 L of water) per the bucket per 1 sq.m.
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Four rules of sawn cabbage
Broccoli, kohlrabi, color and Pekinese cabbage can be sown by seeds on the garden even in late May or early June.
They will grow and give a full harvest. But this method of cultivation has its own characteristics.
Under the seedless cabbage, select a bed with the most fertile and loose soil. Under the digging, add humus or compost (a bucket to 1 sq.m.), as well as azofosca (60 g per 1 sq.m). The earth is well leveled with rakes so that there are no large lumps, otherwise the seeds that fall under them will not rise.
Sow the cabbage of early ripening varieties with a growth period of up to 100 days. Leave only the largest and undamaged seeds. Sow two in the hole without additional preparation dry to a depth of 1-2 cm at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other and 40-50 cm between the rows. If both get up, one of the germs is transplanted into the hole where the seeds did not rise or the plants died.
To protect the shoots from the cruciferous blossom, immediately after sowing, sprinkle the bed with the Aktara solution (according to the instructions), then cover with a spunbond. Nonwoven material will not allow insects to tender shoots. Remove the shelter when 5-6 seedlings appear on these leaves - then the flea will no longer be scary.
Take care that the land does not dry out, water the young cabbage with standing water. Weed the weeds in time.
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Help me figure out the broccoli cabbage. Sorts seem to be picking good, broccoli grows with good foliage, but still not the same as in the store: even if it does not shoot, the heads are as if they are about to blossom.
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There may be several reasons for your problem.
A large role is played by the frequency and volume of watering - broccoli watered 2-3 times a week.
Probably, there are not enough trace elements. When growing broccoli to get dense heads, minimum 2-3 top dressing on leaves with boron, molybdenum, manganese and zinc (0,1-0,2% solution of complex fertilizer) is required: first time in phase 6-8 of real leaves, the second time in the phase of beginning forming the head.
And more: do not hold the heads, cut as soon as they are formed and have not yet become loose.
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One of the most unpretentious and useful varieties of cabbage is broccoli, it gives a guaranteed harvest even on the balcony and windowsill. However, this culture is still not particularly popular among summer residents of the Central Black Earth Region. And all because broccoli often does not tie heads, and it quickly goes into color. This may be due to non-compliance with agricultural technology. In general, this cabbage loves frequent watering (at least 3 times a week), high humidity, and in the heat - also spraying. My broccoli grows along the southern shore of an artificial pond in a friendly environment of grassy elderberries. When dry, hot weather sets in, elderberry partially obscures the cabbage, which the latter clearly likes.
It would be possible to refuse growing broccoli, but it is very tasty and useful! It has long been recognized as a product indispensable for those who suffer from heart diseases (protects the body from oxygen starvation) and diseases associated with the nervous system (alleviates the attacks of fear and anxiety).
Can not grow heads? Do not need! Do not give up trying, but for now try to prepare young shoots and leaves, because they are the most useful part of the plant. Include in your diet broccoli or her shoots regularly and be healthy!
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thank you
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I plant broccoli seedlings in a permanent place at the age of about 6 weeks, when she has 5-6 leaves, this period is considered the best for planting. I plant according to the scheme 50 × 25 cm, deepening to the first real leaf. I choose a sunny place, where lime and well-rotted manure were added in the fall. I add 2 tablespoons to the wells during planting. superphosphate, 1 tbsp. wood ash and 1 tsp urea.
Since cabbage takes the second place among vegetables for the removal of nutrients from the soil, I do not save on its nutrition: it requires a lot of moisture and responds well to liquid top dressing with boron and molybdenum (I produce the finished product on their basis according to the instructions).
I feed broccoli 2 times: the first - two weeks after transplanting, the second - two weeks after the first time. I regularly loosen and spud. TIP: To cut broccoli heads until late autumn, in June, I sow its seeds again immediately in the garden. Three weeks later, I feed the plants for the first time.
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Broccoli to 8 March
Of all types of cauliflower, broccoli is the most precocious and unpretentious. Therefore, its harvest can be obtained at home even in winter.
If in the summer cabbage was grown on the site, then the late varieties can be moved to the rearing home. In autumn, the plants are carefully passed with a clod of earth in buckets with soil and transferred to a warm veranda. After cutting the main inflorescence, broccoli releases new shoots from the side buds. They tied the heads-small, but the same delicious.
You can grow broccoli at home and out of seedlings. Two main conditions for success:
• each plant will require a large capacity and not less than 1 buckets of fertile soil (even sod land and humus, add to 1 a bucket of 1 l of coarse sand and 0,5 l of wood ash);
• vegetables can be grown in winter with strong backlighting.
For the house it is better to choose greenhouse varieties of the early maturation period: Curly head, Lazarus F1, Tonus. From sowing seeds to transplanting seedlings with three real leaves to a permanent place in large containers takes about a month. Another one and a half months will pass before the first heads are tied. So, in the late autumn planting of seedlings, you can get fresh broccoli to 8 March.
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Broccoli for the whole summer
My wife loves broccoli very much and has taught her the whole family. Now I, as the head of the garden, should provide domestic products in abundance with this vegetable.
I plant broccoli seedlings, on which at least 5 leaves. I leave about 40 cm between the plants, about 50 between the rows. I pour half a glass of wood ash into each hole. I firmly squeeze the planted seedlings with soil, otherwise it will not take root.
To get high yields, I often and abundantly water the cabbage, do organic fertilizing. I spend the first somewhere 15 days after planting, the next 1 time every 3-4 weeks. I try to do top dressing after a rain. As soon as the seedlings grow, I spud it a little - this is how the root system is stimulated, plus the prophylaxis of the black leg. Harvest all summer!