Lupine (photo): cultivation in a flower garden
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FLOWER LUPINE FOR DECORATION OF COTTAGES - LANDING AND CARE
Translated from Latin, lupus means “wolf”, and it is interpreted differently, but there are two main versions. The first - lupine is completely unpretentious, which makes him related to a wolf that can survive in difficult conditions. The second is based on the use of parts of this plant by sorcerers and healers for the preparation of various potions
Finally, this plant has received a worthy recognition from gardeners and from the weed category has turned into a very fashionable and popular culture.
Lupine (Lupinus) is a large family of legumes and unites about 200 species. These are plants with complex palate petiolate leaves, assembled in a rosette rosette, cauline - alternately sit on the shoot.
Flowers are butterfly type collected in long racemose inflorescences. Coloring flowers is very diverse: white, cream, pink, blue, blue, violet, red, and also two-color.
Of annuals in culture are most often used Lupinus with violet-blue flowers and lupine changeable (Lupinus mutabilis) with fragrant inflorescences of white, pink and blue-lilac color.
Under the general name lupine hybrid (Lupinus hybridus) united cultivars of different origin with flowers of various colors.
A huge popularity lupine multifoliate (Lupinus polyphyllus) - herbaceous perennial with a height of up to 120 cm and its numerous varieties of hybrid origin.
English designers are very fond of using in the flower gardens of its variety: Mu Castle - with dark pink flowers; Noble Maiden - with luxurious cream-white; The Chatelaine - with two-colored white-pink flowers, collected in long racemose inflorescences. Very interesting variety lupine low (Lupinus nanus) Pixie Delight, sowing which, you will receive plants 30 cm in height all shades of pink, white and blue. Lupine arboreus (Lupinus arboreus) is a semi-evergreen shrub with scented yellow flowers, needs shelter for the winter. At the peak of the flower fashion are the famous hybrids Russell (Russell Hybrids), which differ in fantastic colors of flowers: white-blue, bright yellow, purple, carmine-red.
Reference by topic: Lupine as a siderat - growing, planting and care
LUPIN - CARE AND TRANSFER
Lupins are rather unpretentious and low-yielding plants. They need well-lit places with weakly acid or neutral soil.
It must be remembered that they do not tolerate the transplant because they damage their core, deeply rooted in the soil. The disadvantages of lupines include their unceremonious assimilation of space, this must be taken into account when used in compositions.
Also, each year, the root collar rises several centimeters above the soil surface, which requires regular hilling.
The advantages of lupines are a beautiful, long flowering and soil enrichment with nitrogen, which accumulates in the nodules of nitrogen-fixing bacteria located on the roots of plants, so nitrogen fertilizers are not necessary for them and their neighbors.
REPRODUCTION OF LUPIN
Propagate lupins by seeds and vegetatively.
To preserve especially valuable varieties, plants reproduce by buds of renewal, which are formed at the base of the stem. After flowering, you need to cut out these kidneys with a knife with a piece of root neck and put it in a container with sand. A month later the plants can be planted in a permanent place.
See also: Compatibility of plants and alternation of vegetables
LUPIN IN THE FLOWER - PHOTO
1. Against the backdrop of a variety of plants, the accent in this composition is the red inflorescences of lupines, which perfectly shades bright pink fragrant peas.
2.This classic in white is a wonderful snow-white lupine and fragrant Rose. Planted in the background, the Katran creates a very effective accent, forming an airy cloud.
3. A complex border is built on contrast, which is based on such basic colors as blue, yellow and red. Such color aggressiveness is somewhat mitigated by white-leafed spindle grass.
4.Natural composition is built with the participation of blue lupine multilayered with luxurious carved foliage and bright yellow buttercup. This combination of plants is suitable for the forest part of the garden.
5. The main green range of this flower ensemble will not be monotonous even after the flowering of irises, lupines and daylilies, these plants differ in the form and texture of foliage.
6. Flower mixes also have the right to a place in the garden, for example, at home in the front garden or next to the summer kitchen. Only they do not have to be big in size, it's tiresome.
7.Imusing combination of lupines, poppies and irises is supported by no less interesting cereals and wormwood, foliage of which is a good contrast in the flower garden.
8. The composition is interesting at the time of flowering, has an original color solution, but not for our climate. Such a beautiful picture, we, no matter how hard we try, will not get it.
LUPIN: LANDING AND CARE - FLOWER TIPS
High peduncles of this herbaceous perennial glorify the eye in sunflowers for a long time. Lupine beauties are now experiencing a new wave of popularity thanks to the emergence of varieties with polychrome flowers.
Lupine in bloom is a fantastic sight! Obviously, the lush flower buds of the plant involuntarily attract everyone's attention. Since June, they soar above the delicate finger-like leaves, reaching a meter height.
The name "lupine" comes from the Latin lupus - "wolf". According to an old legend, a potion was drawn from this plant, turning a person into a beast. But botanists put forward a more prosaic version: most likely, the terrible name has got to our hero thanks to the ability to survive in the most unfavorable conditions. It is this "property of character" that has contributed to the great love of breeders for the flower.
New varieties arose in the early XX century. by crossing the "American" - lupine multifoliate (Lupinus polyphyllus) - with other one- and perennial species of this plant. To this day in the big favor among gardeners hybrids of the British breeder George Russell (1857-1951). To the variety created by him "Mine Schloss"Refer, for example, Fraulein with snow-white flowers, Kronlyouter with yellow and Edelknabe with flowers of rare carmine coloring. Representatives of these varieties reach 80-100 cm in height and bloom for many weeks. Significantly lower "growth" derived by Russell hybrids lupine low (Lupinus nanus) sortseries Gallery!! These babies height up to 50-60 cm are also suitable for growing in a pot.
And finally, we present the novelties of selection, claiming the title of the main hit of the season, - the variety series West Country. Many of these tall and at the same time resistant to lodging hybrids have two or even polychrome flowers, which turns them into real garden stars. Extravagant varietal plants, for example 'Masterpiece 'and'Salmon Star ', so catchy that in their "retinue" it is desirable to choose satellites with a more modest "appearance", for example, geranium or a cuff.
Polychromatic inflorescence looks incredibly spectacular. Towering Inferno fascinates with orange-red flowers with a yellow sail. Still not blossoming buds are painted in dark pink color.
Lupins do not require special care.
They are completely undemanding to the soil, except that on loamy weakly acidic and slightly alkaline soils they develop better. In the garden, this representative of the flora needs to be provided with a sunny, sheltered place from the wind to protect the lush "candles" from damage. If the flower buds are cut off after flowering, the plant forms new shoots, so that at the end of summer the "pet" will re-brighten you with bright furniture.
The main pollinators of lupines are bumblebees. When the insect sits on the so-called boat, it bends, opening access to the pollen.
Sowing lupine
After flowering, lupine first forms green, pubescent fruits-beans, which become brown as they mature.
They contain spherical seeds. Do you want to collect them for sowing? Do not miss the moment: when the fruits open the leaves, the seeds will fall to the ground. Important: in flowers grown from such seed "pets", the color of flowers is often different from that of the mother plant. Therefore, to insure against such unpleasant surprises, it is better to buy seeds in garden centers.
In the spring, sow "seeds" in the pots for seedlings and in early June, plant the strongest seedlings in the flower garden. Advice: young seedlings should be carefully guarded against slugs! In shopping malls you can find mixes the annual lupine of Hartweg (Lupinus hartwegii), which in May can be sown directly into the open ground
LUPINES - LANDING AND CARE: TIPS AND FEEDBACK FROM FLOWERS
Why did lupine become so small in flower beds?
Suddenly she wondered - why? Why are lupins, such grateful and vibrant plants, grown so little now?
And this despite the fact that our lupine is slowly naturalizing, flooding in June the breathtaking cobalt blue abandoned fields and roadsides. Moreover, it is absolutely wonderful in bouquets, pleasantly and unobtrusively fragrant and extremely effective in flower beds. And what color brightness, what color contrasts ...
On the one hand, this is due to the peculiarities of reproduction. Finished plants are sold infrequently, and perennials are not very popular with us. As there are some inconveniences at cultivation of lupines this way. They are better sowed and somehow,
Pruning the faded tops of lupins can provoke repeated flowering in late August - early September
then it's time to keep seedlings in pots until enough "meat" grows to land on a permanent place (young seedlings get better, but in a ready-made flower garden they can easily be killed by neighboring plants). The fact is that adult lupins categorically do not like transplantation, getting accustomed only in rare cases. Rarely survive after division, so you can not just bite off a piece of the neighbor's favorite bush. It's pointless and digging up favorite specimens in the field outside the outskirts, the result will also be negative. True, lupins can be propagated by root cuttings, but this is a separate troublesome story with far from 100% yield. But more on that later.
A curious trick is to plant lupins and decorative bows close to each other. Lupine will "leave", and the bow heads will remain until the fall
On the other hand, our flower macho is not always behaving decently. It is good in the first half of summer, before flowering. Spectacular unique foliage, so graphic and delicate, then clear rising ears of inflorescences, an explosion of color and ... After a short time, the foliage is covered with powdery mildew so dense that it dries quickly, and what remains remains does not decorate the flower garden, but spoils it. Powdery mildew is not so easy to fight, it is a stubborn mushroom, it requires more than one treatment with fungicides, and not every fungicide can help here. There is a way out (even two), but more on that later.
What is our plus? The fact that all these cons can be circumvented. The first is that lupins are sometimes sold in roots at the end of winter - in the spring. It is better to buy such material earlier (while it has not yet been worn out in the store / online store and has not started to grow) and store it in the refrigerator until planting at a temperature near zero. On the other hand, the last couple of years with the advent of LED lamps with a red-blue spectrum on sale, it has become easier to raise plants from the roots on the windowsill.
Only the substrate should be well-drained (up to a third of the volume of sand, perlite or vermiculite - and no “wonderful” agrogels and granules from them, otherwise you will not expect anything except rotten roots). And sowing of scarified seeds directly in plastic pots, followed by growing easier than steamed turnips! But from the seeds you can get a large number of different color specimens. And then varietal plants have inflorescences not only bright, but also dense, savory and weighty.
The second minus is nullified by the correct placement in the flower garden, since after flowering these plants should simply be disguised.
Therefore, feel free to spit on all the recommendations to plant lupins against the background of the lawn, "tapeworms" and groups. Even in the flower garden, groups are not allowed. Since when their foliage begins to lose its decorative effect, the most correct thing is to simply cut it off at the root, leaving an empty space. After a while, new clean foliage will begin to grow, but this will not make the weather decorative. This “failure” that has arisen just needs to be masked. This is really easy. Plants around should be tall and spreading, for example, geleniums, black cohosh, Canadian chamomile, solidago, autumn-flowering cereals, saplings, and so on.
Very ingenious decision-to plant lupines next to perennial bows. Their dry ball heads then "swim" into the liberated side, and no one will understand that there was something else in the beginning of summer.
The great flower girl Gertrude Jekyll recommended to hide exactly the same bad behavior of the delphinium for fragrant peas.
You can use distraction distraction. Plant next to something destructively bright and abundantly blooming, and the look will be focused on it. And do you think, why do the English like to combine lupines with roses and clematis? That's why they love. Plants with colored leaves will also be very welcome here. Strung geometric forms also have the property of drawing attention to themselves. We rarely "prop up" the backdrop of the flower bed with a sheared hedge, but in vain, and in vain
Picture from Chelsea. Clematis should be 2-th group trimming (shoots need to be kept in winter). It is the first flowering on the wintering shoots that coincides with the flowering of lupines in many ways in vain. The green wall, even with the usual flat top, not to mention the figuratively cut, conceals many flaws in building a flower garden in front of it.
The third option is to plant lupine bushes from the edge of the flower garden. Fourth - place the lupins in the background of the flower garden, or at least behind a fairly dense foreground.
QUICK SCARIFFICATION OF SEEDS OF LUPIN
Take two sheets of sandpaper. Pour the seeds on a layer one by one, cover with others and with effort roll several times.
Or in a different way. Take an ordinary kitchen sieve of a small size, pour seeds into it, put a kettle on the fire. When boil, let cold water out of the tap, scald the seeds with boiling water and quickly put it under cold water. All are alive and germinate amicably.
WHY NOT?
An old, almost ancient Baltic recipe for combating powdery mildew. True, the original was given for phlox, but what prevents to try on lupines?
Colloidal sulfur powder is taken and foliage is dusted in the second half of May. The air temperature must be above 19 ° and below 30 °, so that sulfur acts on the one hand, and there are no burns on the other.
LUPIN'S LENGTHENING
In spring, when the foliage begins to grow only, the lupines can be cut.
Root rosettes with a root collar and a piece of root are used as cuttings. They are cut off with a sharp knife, dipped in root stimulant powder.
Planting on the rooting in a micro-pot with a loose soil, located in the penumbra.
The simplest option is for a plastic bottle between other plants, but in such plantings, as a rule, the percentage of rooting is lower, you have to pay for simplicity.
As always with cuttings, it is important to monitor the humidity of the soil and air under cover. Roots are formed about a month later.
LOVE DOES NOT LOVE
Lupins do not like stagnant moisturizing and do not live long in damp places.
And also they do not like skinny sandy soils, although the eyes are tired of reading about nitrogen-fixing bacteria, which will get food from the air. This is true, but on dry, lean soils and lupines will be lean, in spite of any nitrogen-fixing bacteria, since this food will be scarce enough for them. Therefore, if you grow them to decorate a flower garden, and not as a sidereate, remember that lupines love fat, moderately moist loams and full sun. Not bad friends with penumbra and vegetate in the shade.
© Author: E. ABROSIMOVA
LUPIN - BEAUTIFUL AND USEFUL
This charming plant, which softens the earth with its rootlets, serves as a biologically valuable fertilizer, as it enriches the soil with nitrogen and organic substances. After it, grow any culture. On the roots of lupine, nodules are formed which assimilate nitrogen. The roots themselves penetrate to a depth of up to two meters and absorb hardly soluble substances.
GROW IN THE SHADOW OF TREES
In order to improve the fertility of the soil, I sow the lupine in the trunks of fruit trees (apple, pear, cherries). After all, for them, this is an excellent fertilizing, and for the flower is very suitable pritennye conditions. I also noticed that 8 this case, my fruit trees annually bear fruit.
I plant lupine usually with seeds in early May. Shoots appear days through 10. In the first year, lupine does not bloom, grows green mass, and in the second year begins to bloom in early June.
When the beans mature, their leaves crack and the seeds scatter in different directions. Next year, of them appear plants, but not varietal, but with loss of decorativeness. To prevent this from happening, the pods must be cut before they crack.
Simple reproduction
Loving copies of lupine can be multiplied. To do this, you need to find the kidneys at the base of the stem, cut them out with a piece of root and plant them in a shaded place. When the cuttings have young roots, they should be moved to a flower bed. You can propagate lupines and dividing the bush.
Council
To autumn a long lupine blossomed a second time, I cut off its faded stems, trying not to damage the leaves of the rosette. Thus, this ornamental plant blooms in me until late autumn.
Updating the bushes
Every five years I renew the lupine bushes, because the flowering is not as lush as it was before. On my site I dig up the beds occupied by plants. I mow down them, I chop and cut the roots and put them on the bayonet with a shovel. The organic mass is perfectly decomposed and replaces manure.
Council
For the winter, I do not cover the flower, I do not apply fertilizer, water it as the soil dries up, and loosen the soil around it. Stems and leaves of lupine I use as a mulch.
Flower for Beginners
I would like to advise novice growers to begin their practice with lupine, because it does not require special care, this unpretentious plant. Try planting these plants on your site! After all, their amazingly beautiful inflorescences not only will delight with luxurious flowering, but you will discover the most valuable green fertilizer that will enrich the beds with irreplaceable nutrients, and hence the harvest will be better. Svetlana
© Author: Anatolyevna Martynovna, Oryol
MY FAVORITE LUPE
The story of my love for lupins began about three years ago. Once I was driving home to my parents on a long-distance flight. Looking out the window, I was amazed to notice a picturesque glade, all strewn with some blue-violet tall flowers. This glade looked simply magical. What kind of fabulous flowers? Upon reflection, I concluded that they were lupins.
Since then, I had a burning desire to plant these lovely flowers on my site.
For the new summer season I purchased lupine seeds of different colors. Among them are the varieties Monsieur Pierre (plants with orange-red inflorescences), Faust (dark purple inflorescences), Castle (inflorescences of bright red color), Gallery (unique yellow color of inflorescences). Also, I could not help but notice the varieties of lupins, the Countess (plants with giant cylindrical pink brushes), Ruslan's lupins, White Flame (with cream-white color of inflorescences), Russell's lupine, Blue flowers (with blue flowers).
In April, I sowed all this beauty right into open ground.
I want to note that my plants developed in different ways: some are good, while others somehow turned yellow and eventually disappeared. In the places of the missing lupins in the late autumn (towards the winter), they sowed the seeds (it’s good that there were enough of them in a pack). The following year, all the plants, to my great happiness, were alive and well. I came to the conclusion that the subwinter seeding by lupins was more to my liking.
Lupins "lit" their colorful candles already in late May, their luxurious bloom lasted about 28 days.
The rich color of the inflorescences, the lacy foliage very much pleased me and my family, all eyes were turned to these colors. The spirit captured from this beauty!
As I mentioned above, I sowed lupins immediately in open ground. But some practice a seedling method of growing. Although this method is not the best, in my opinion. The fact is that lupine does not like transplants. A sturdier plant will grow if it is immediately planted in the ground (and to do this either in early spring or planted before winter). If you still prefer the seedling method, then when planting seedlings in open ground, handle the plant with care not to damage its roots.
With regard to the podzimnogo sowing: I recommend to carry it out after a stable subzero daytime temperature is established.
To improve seed germination, before sowing, they can be subjected to scarification (mechanical damage to the seed coat - for example, rub with sandpaper).
The most optimal for lupine are light soils with a slightly acidic or slightly alkaline level of PH (5,5-6,0). On highly alkaline soils (if the pH exceeds 7,5), the leaves of the lupine may begin to turn yellow. This is a sign that the plants lack iron, they develop chlorosis.
In such a situation, it is necessary to acidify the soil (for example, add sour peat to it or apply iron-containing fertilizer).
If on your plots, on the contrary, too high acidity of the soil, then it should be reduced. This can be done by proizvodkovav soil (make lime-fluff or dolomite flour).
Lupine loves sunbathing, so it is advisable to place it in well-lit places. But in lightly shaved he will feel quite comfortable.
Lupins should not be planted in areas with high groundwater levels. Remember: lupins feel very bad on wet areas! The plant has good drought tolerance, so it is necessary to water it only during periods of long dry weather (to avoid overwetting).
Before flowering (the second year after planting), lupins can be fed with potassium sulfate (add 10 st. Of fertilizer to the 1-liter bucket of water).
And during flowering, I pour under each bush approximately 3 Art. l wood ash.
The lupins display their best decorative qualities on loose, fertile soils, so be sure to loosen the soil around the plant in order to provide oxygen access to the roots (oxygen deficiency is undesirable for lupine).
Lupine after ottsvetaniya scatters its ripe seed beans in different directions on the 3-4 m and therefore gives a good self-seeding. (By the way, lupine seeds have excellent germination.) In this regard, many consider this plant to be weed, as it grows rapidly and can take a large space. If you do not want the lupine to grow, trim the peduncles in time after flowering is over. By the way, after cutting off faded stems, lupins can give repeated flowering in August (although not so elegant and plentiful).
At one place lupins grow around 4-5 years, then you need to update the planting (division of rhizomes or cuttings).
Lupins look good surrounded by irises, delphiniums, daylilies, phloxes. My lupins, for example, coexist with irises and complement each other's beauty.
An interesting fact is that the white lupine was first cultivated, besides, it was edible. White lupine beans first began to be eaten in ancient Egypt, and then in ancient Rome. But on our plots we grow a many-leaved lupine, and its beans are inedible!
By the way, white lupine seeds can now be found in health food stores. These beans are rich in protein, vitamins, minerals, reduce blood sugar levels. Currently, they are used as a natural natural energy, shown to people engaged in physical exhausting work, athletes. White lupine seeds tone up, have a positive effect on the work of the nervous system, their regular use gives a surge of strength and energy. White lupine proteins are even included in the composition of drugs aimed at the treatment of hormonal alopecia (white lupine drugs can cure hair loss associated with hormonal problems, namely, increased testosterone production).
Lupine, without any doubt, a noble and beautiful plant. In my opinion, this is the most beautiful of the siderats! In addition, today there is a large selection of varieties of this plant with a very interesting color, for example, two-dimensional varieties. Pay attention to this spectacular plant, I am sure you will be satisfied!
© Posted by Julia Kupina
Lupine doesn't forgive mistakes
I want to tell you how I tried for several years in a row a multi-colored lupine from seeds on my site, but for some reason I failed. Of course, I was very annoyed. After all, when the plant does not emerge, for the gardener a year, consider it lost.
Make friends failed
I wanted to breed lupine on my site because it is a perennial. It is drought tolerant, has a powerful rhizome, growing in depth up to 1-2 m. It has small tubers that can absorb nitrogen from the air.
But no matter how much I tried to “make friends” with this crop, trying to propagate it with seeds, and then seedlings, nothing worked. Last spring, I ordered rooted cuttings of lupine in different colors. However, they were sent too soon, when there was still snow, and I dropped them off in pots at home. Cuttings took root, and soon had a chance to see young sprouts, and then the time came to plant them in the ground.
Only homemade survived
I decided to leave a few pieces at home in pots, and placed the rest on a flower bed. I replanted the sprouts carefully, observing all the rules of agricultural technology, but to my great chagrin, they all died. Later, I found out that lupine does not tolerate transplants and can withstand this procedure only once if it is sown at home for seedlings.
But I still had cuttings that were planted in separate pots. I did not dare to transplant them. Fortunately, the plants pleased their flowering on the balcony for a very long time. True, they grew only by 40-50 cm in height, which, apparently, is explained by cramped conditions.
Follow the rules
During the failures I studied a lot of literature, I learned a lot about growing lupine. And she decided to act. In winter I bought seeds. Since even lupine seedlings have a long core root, they chose deep containers - more than 10 cm, so that the roots were not cramped.
On March 2 planted several beans in one large container at a distance of 6-8 cm from each other, so as not to dive. I did everything according to the rules, at the bottom of the tank I drilled drainage holes to drain excess moisture and poured expanded clay. She prepared the ground herself. She took peat, shop land for seedlings, sand in the ratio 2: 2: 1 and added perlite for loosening the soil. Everything was well stirred and filled with a prepared mixture of the container.
Why scratch beans
Now I already knew: in order for the germination of beans to be high, it is necessary to slightly damage the dense protective shell of the seeds. To do this, I took sandpaper, put in it 5-6 lupine beans and carefully rubbed them in my palms. With this procedure, the seed coat was scratched and the germination rate increased.
You can do otherwise: slightly cut the protective sheath with scissors. These simple procedures allow liquids to easily penetrate beans that swell quickly and germinate well. In science, this method is called scarification. I wrapped the beans prepared in this way in a wet rag, then in a film and put it in a warm place for germination.
What Lupine Loves
After 10-15 days, dicotyledonous leaves appeared. After that, I freed the seeds from the shelter and planted them in the prepared soil. Almost a month later, real leaflets appeared. Now the seedlings were ready for relocation to the flowerbed.
It should be noted that lupine is not very picky about the soil: it will suit the earth in the range from slightly acidic to neutral. The best for this culture is sandy soil. Ideal precursors of lupine are cereals.
The site should be well lit by the sun. When planting seedlings, it is also necessary to follow a certain pattern. Perennial lupins grow into fairly large shrubs over time, so they are placed at intervals of 0,5 m so that adult plants do not interfere with each other's growth and development. And I, unfortunately, thickened my landings, so the next year I had to break through them.
Now I'm getting ready for a reckless way of sowing lupine. With their cultivation, I think, there will be less trouble. Only in the autumn is it necessary to carefully dig up the soil with the addition of nutrients. And superphosphate or wood ash is best suited.
In the spring I’ll make grooves in the flowerbed 1,5-2 cm deep. The gap between the strips should be at least 50 cm. Then I will water the ground with water and plant lupine beans, cover the soil and slightly mulch peat. Two weeks later, according to sources, the first leaves should appear. After they grow up, they can also be used as seedlings and transplanted to another place. And if the plants are planted immediately in a permanent place, then the seedlings must be breached, keeping the distance between them 0,5 m. Lupins grown in this way will bloom much later, but they will delight with their bloom to the very frosts.
Council
In order for the plant to maintain its decorativeness until winter, it is necessary to timely remove dried inflorescences and branches. The resulting young shoots will allow it to bloom again - on the eve of autumn. After a few years, it is recommended that the lupins be spudded because their root neck and roots begin to become bare over time.
Lupine heals and fertilizes the soil
However, not only for the sake of beauty, lupine is grown. It is also considered an excellent green manure - environmentally friendly green fertilizer. It is chosen as a natural top dressing in cases where it is necessary to saturate the soil with oxygen. Lupine performs this function in the best way, as its roots penetrate deep into the earth. This property helps to loosen too much soil. In addition, useful mineral fertilizers rise up from the very depths of the soil along a two-meter root rod. And thanks to the alkaloids in its composition, lupine is able to neutralize too acidified soil. For these purposes, such varieties of lupine as blue (narrow-leaved) and white are most suitable - this is the highest flower with snow-white arrows. Both of these species perfectly enrich the soil and are a nutritious feed for livestock.
What is sick
Like other plants, lupins also have their ailments and pests. Most often, aphids damage them. This insect appears during budding and feeds on the sap of the plant, which leads to the drying of the buds and leaves and their subsequent decay. Aphids breed so fast that they can destroy a flower. To prevent this from happening, I spray the lupine bushes with insecticidal drugs such as Fufafon, BI-58 New.
Another attack of lupine is the nodule weevil. Adult beetles eat up the growth point and leaves, and the larvae feed on the roots. They should also be fought with Fufafon and Ke-mythos, and the larvae should be destroyed with Initiative.
The next enemy is the sprout fly. The larvae of this pest affect seedlings, because they live in the soil. Therefore, every autumn you need to dig around the plants and make manure.
Of the diseases, lupins often affect bacterial cancer, white rot, and other diseases resulting from excessive soil moisture and untimely removal of weeds. To avoid such a problem, it is necessary to comply with crop rotation rules and agricultural requirements.
When the first signs of disease appear - leaf spot, rust and bacteriosis - the crops are sprayed with a 1% suspension of colloidal sulfur.
Note
Lupins are flowers that practically do not need to be fed, because they themselves fertilize the soil around them. In the first year, fertilizers are not applied at all. One year after planting, you can give potassium chloride or superphosphate according to the instructions.
© Author: Anna Ivanovna MURAVTSOVA, Gomel Region, p. Terehovka
BRIGHT CANDLES OF LUPINE
Lupine is popularly called wolf beans. The whole point is in seeds, which, with the exception of fodder species, contain bitter poisonous substances (“lupus” in Latin translates as “wolf”). Decorative plant varieties can only cause admiration. Original foliage and flowers collected in tall brush-candles of various colors will become a worthy decoration of your garden.
From seed
Lupine seeds are sown in April in a shaded corner of the garden, buried about 2 cm deep in moist soil, and lightly sprinkled with peat. After 7-14 days, seedlings appear. When the seedlings get stronger and form two or three true leaves, they are transplanted to a permanent place. Lupine has a core root, which is easy to damage, so do not delay the transplant. Already in the second year, seedlings will delight single flowering, and after 3-4 years you will have magnificent flowering specimens.
From cuttings
You can propagate lupins and summer cuttings. To do this, from three summer bushes, after they have faded, cut off basal rosettes with a piece of root and plant them in a shaded place. A month after planting, they have their own roots, and young plants can be transplanted to a permanent place. By the fall, they will bloom.
Предпочтения
In the first year of planting, lupins need timely watering in dry weather and loosening the soil. Next year, before flowering begins, it can be fed with any phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.
Very tall bushes are tied up if necessary so that they are not tumbled down by the wind.
They grow well and bloom lushly (in June) on any nutrient soil, they do not like stagnation of moisture. Prefer illuminated areas, but put up with partial shade.
After flowering, the flower stalks are pruned, then closer to autumn the plants will bloom again. It will also help to avoid uncontrolled propagation by self-seeding.
Choose varieties and neighbors
One of the most popular varieties of lupine is Abendglut. Its tall bushes are crowned with large dark red inflorescences.
A rare orange color of candles can be "boasted" Apricot variety.
Albus will please with dazzling white flowers and dense inflorescences.
Minaret and Lulu are undersized mixtures that look spectacular in discounts and borders.
Lupins are good in solitary groups on the lawn or in the vicinity of aquilegia, irises, tulips.
© Author: I. Korosa
BRIGHT COLORS OF LUPINE
Decorative varieties of lupine are admirable. Bushes with original foliage and flowers, collected in tall candle brushes of various colors, will become a worthy decoration of your garden. Bright varieties go well in mixed plantings with irises, hostas, lilies, nivyaniks, astilbes, delphiniums.
Lupine is an excellent "neighbor" (since he has a tap root): he does not interfere with anyone and even helps. How ? It has nodules on its roots, formed by nitrogen-fixing bacteria, which absorb nitrogen from the air, converting it into a bound state, and then accumulate in the ground.
HOW TO GET A PLANT?
Lupine can be propagated by summer cuttings. To do this, from three-year-old bushes, after they have faded, they cut off basal rosettes with a piece of root and plant them in a shaded school. A month after planting, they develop their own roots, and young plants can be transplanted to a permanent place. By autumn they will bloom.
Lupine seeds ripen in early August. You need to collect them after the fruits turn yellow. They dry unevenly. Therefore, it is better to stretch the collection over several stages. I advise you not to miss the right moment: mature "beans" of lupine crack. Dry the seeds well by laying them out in a single layer in a cardboard box. They are sown in April in a shaded corner of the garden, deepening about 2 cm into moist soil and lightly sprinkled with peat. Shoots appear after 7-14 days. When the seedlings get stronger and form two or three true leaves, they are transplanted to a permanent place. Lupine has a taproot that is easily damaged, so transplanting should not be delayed. Already in the second year, the seedlings will please with a single flowering, and after 3-4 years you will have magnificent flowering specimens.
POSSIBLE PROBLEMS
Fusarium wilt, root and gray rot, mosaics, rust, spotting and fomopsis are dangerous for lupine. A diseased bush should be cut at the root, treat the plant with a suitable fungicide. Growing shoots are usually healthy. Sometimes liming and digging of the soil are required. But, if you follow agricultural technology, you will most likely not have to fight pests and diseases.
GROWING RULES
Provide the plant with a well-lit area.
He will like loose, moderately nutritious soil. On soil rich in organic matter, powerful bushes grow, but they bloom weaker.
In the first year of planting, lupine needs timely watering (especially in dry weather) and loosening the soil.
Next year, before flowering, it can be fed with any phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.
After the second flowering season, the bush must be hilled up so that lateral roots develop. After all, additional shoots are formed on them, and the plant retains its decorative effect longer.
After flowering, the flower stalks are cut off, then closer to autumn the plants will bloom again. It will also help to avoid uncontrolled reproduction by self-seeding.
© Author: Natalia ERMOLOVICH, biologist, Moscow
LUPINE - LANDING AND CARE: VIDEO
© Author O. Nikitin. Landscape designer. Photo by A.Lysikov
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Bulbous flowers and plants - from spring to late autumn
- Care for gladioli during and after flowering
- Harvesting and collecting seeds from their flowers: a memo table
- Autumn planting and transplanting flowers - features and timing
- Cuttings of flowers (phlox, etc.)
- How and when to water flowers in the garden in the open ground
- Astrantia (photo) - planting and care, flower varieties
- Trachelium - planting and care in the open field
- Daylily division - master class and photo
- Flowers with double flowers - photo, name and description
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In early August, lupine seeds ripen. I collect them after the fruits turn yellow (they dry unevenly, so I collect them in several stages). Trying not to miss a moment, as mature lupine beans crack.
I line the shoebox with thick paper and put the beans in one layer.
Lupine and especially its seeds are poisonous. It is better to dry and store them in a non-residential area.
I take the container with the planting material to a warm, dry place (in the attic or in the barn). If moisture gets into the box, the beans will become moldy. In the spring, in April, before sowing in open ground, I lightly wipe the seeds with sandpaper to scratch the shell, and soak them in warm water for 5-8 hours to swell.
I pack the dried seeds into fabric bags, ATTACHING LABELS WITH THE NAME OF THE VARIETY AND THE DATE OF COLLECTION.
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At the neighbor every summer lupine blooms wonderfully.
I also decided to get it, but the plants turned out to be weak, and the flowers faded.
What's wrong?
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To grow lupine, several requirements must be observed: the place where it grows must be illuminated by the sun at least four hours a day. For tall varieties, it must be protected from the wind. The soil can be any, except strongly alkaline. Watering lupine should be moderate, not allowing the soil to dry.
The plant needs additional feedings, while it is desirable to use fertilizers without nitrogen. In preparation for the winter you need to trim the dried stem. Typically, perennial lupins grow 4-5 years, then the bushes are removed and new ones are planted.
Florist Anna Petrovna Blazhko, Minsy answered the readers' questions
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Always admired the openwork foliage and saturated colors of lupine inflorescences. In my flower garden, several of its varieties grow: Monsieur Pierre (with orange-red inflorescences), Faust (with violet), Castle (with bright red), Gallery (with yellow), Countess (with huge pink), Russell's lupine White flame (with cream-white) and Blue flame (with blue).
I sow lupine seeds directly into the open ground. To improve the germination, you can slightly rub with their sandpaper. Some growers practice seedlings. But he, in my opinion, is not the best. Lupine does not like transplants, and grows stronger if he is immediately planted in the soil (in the spring or under winter). If you prefer a seedling method, then when planting seedlings, be careful not to damage the roots.
Optimal for lupine are light soils with a pH level of 5,5-6,0. On alkaline soils (pH greater than 7,5), the leaves can start to turn yellow. In this case, it is necessary to introduce acid peat or iron-containing fertilizer. If the soil is acidic, add lime-puschka into it.
Lupine loves the sun, but also feels comfortable in light shading. Strongly does not tolerate damp places, but short-term drought is not afraid of him. Before flowering (in the 2nd year after planting), lupins can be fed with potassium sulfate (1 tbsp. Per 10 liters of water), and during flowering - add 3 tbsp under the bush. l wood ash.
Lupine multiplies perfectly by self-seeding. But if you do not want the lupine to grow, trim the withered peduncles.
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I widely use the lupine grown in a dacha in my home make-up. The use of products prepared on the basis of this plant, allows you to improve the skin: clean and maintain its healthy tone, get rid of acne and acne.
The seeds contain a high oil content that can be distinguished by pouring crushed grains with sunflower or olive oil. It is widely used in cosmetology, because it helps to maintain the elasticity and firmness of the skin, improves blood circulation, stops inflammatory processes and generally actively fights aging.
I offer recipes for infusions, masks, compresses, which give an excellent result.
Mask from acne
2-3 st. l. chopped dry grass lupine pour 200 ml of boiling water, insist 5 minutes, then strain. The resulting gruel is applied to the face. After 15 minutes, the mask should be washed off, and the face wiped with the remaining
you are infusion. With a problematic skin, make such masks should be 2 times a week.
Infusion for daily washing
1-2 st. l. dry herbs lupine pour 200 ml of boiling water, insist 2 hours, drain. Can be used within 2 days. With problematic and oily skin, to achieve a more lasting effect, washing with infusion is carried out for 2-3 months, due to which the skin will become matte and velvety.
Cleansing lotion
3 st. l. fresh herbs of lupine finely chopped, add 150 ml of vodka, cork and put in a dark place for a week. After this, drain, add
Stir 100 ml of cold boiled water, stir, store in the refrigerator. Use as a lotion to cleanse the face in the evening.
Infusion of dandruff
5 st. l. dry grass and lupine flowers brew in 200 ml of boiling water, cool, strain and rub into the scalp. After 20-30 minutes, rinse with warm water. Use 2 times a week for a month.
Compresses for getting rid of scars
1 tbsp. l chop green lupine grains, put on a layer of bandage, attach to the scar and fix with a band-aid. But you can do differently. 1 tbsp. l grind ripe lupine grains into flour (I use a coffee grinder for this), mix with sunflower, and even better - with olive oil (1-2 tbsp. l.). Apply to a layer of bandage, secure with a band-aid.
The compress in both versions should be kept in place of the 4-5 scar. Apply daily until the scar disappears completely on the skin.
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In my garden, for several years I have been cultivating various varieties of lupine, and I was not disappointed in the plant at all.
In order to admire the flowering in a year, I sow the seeds of new varieties in April (as they are more often on sale in the spring). You can sow in the fall, and so even easier and preferable - more friendly shoots. Then in the spring after the snow has descended the seedlings will already rise, and in early August they will bloom.
I seed the seeds in the soil to a depth of 3 cm. On the sandy you can sow deeper - up to 7 cm.
The place in the flower garden I take away behind the low perennials, which can cover the lupines with bright flowers. Well combined lupines in mixed plantings with hosts, lilies, irises, nivyannikami, delphiniums, astilbes.
Sowing lupines is better after cereals (oats, rye, vetch-oats).
Cultivate in one place no more than three years.
If you comply with agrotechnics, lupins are not sick, and pests do not attack them. But in unfavorable years fusarium wilt can develop, root and gray rot. Threatens the plant and mosaic, rust, patchiness and fomopsis. If any bush is sick, immediately cut it to the ground and feed it. Emerging new shoots are usually healthy.
Lupine is an excellent siderat. The root system of the plant penetrates the soil to a depth of up to 2 m, loosening its structure and raising nutrients from the depth of the soil. In the root tubers of lupine, nitrogen is formed, which enriches the soil, replacing manure.
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If you want beauty, but once densely to do flower garden, plant lupines. They are now a lot of varieties, but mostly interesting are derived in England lupins Russell.
There are tall forms. there are undersized. Both one-color, and two-color. Plants are very beautiful, very non-whimsical, grow well, winter well, retain decorative features for a long time. Faded - just cut the flower stalk, the leaves will remain beautiful until the end of summer. But think immediately where to place them. Because, if you decide to transplant or just dig up lupins, there is only one advice: call your husband. The rhizome is powerful, stiff.
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To enrich the soil with the necessary mineral substances, sow the lupine (in the beginning or middle of May) trunks of fruit trees (apple, pear, cherries).
In early summer, fruit trees need a lot of water for growth and development of fruits. In spring and early sowing, siderat, including lupine, will dry up the soil. Therefore, sowing in the garden is better in the second half of the summer. At the beginning of flowering, the siderates are mowed, chopped and embedded in the soil.
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The land in the garden is denser with time, and our holiday village and was completely formed on agricultural land, through which for years tractor went.
In fact, it turns out that at the depth of 25-30 cm for plants there is practically no oxygen. But they can help the soil themselves! In the summer season part of the site I leave "to rest" and sow there a long-term lupine. I sow it under the trees, close to the trunks. I let grow, and in the autumn I mow down. This plant has very thick and long roots. When they rotate in the soil, they simultaneously loosen it in a vertical direction and provide plants with air access.
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Agree that lupine is one of the most beautiful siderates. In Europe, it is called a "blessing" for the soil. For planting, choose a blue lupine - it is the fastest growing mass.
I plant lupine on the garden bed, which rests, on the first five-day day of May. On the roots of the plant there are small swellings - special nodules in which bacteria live that can bind the free nitrogen of the air and accumulate it. That is, the roots of the lupine work like a pump, they penetrate
into the soil to a depth of more than a meter and with their help pumping nitrogen from the air into the soil.
But that's not all. Unlike other ciderates. lupine in a short time increases the fatty green mass, when the lupine starts to bloom, I smell it into the ground, and a fine humus is formed. The acidity of the soil decreases.
I smell the lupins to the depth of 15 cm. Of course, I do not advise doing this with decorative lupines-handsome men.
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Gone are the days when the lupine was just a weed or, at best, a culture that was grown as a green fertilizer. Now there were such decorative varieties and such colors, that lupine became a real find for an unpretentious garden.
I really didn’t think that I would ever buy lupine! But I saw a varietal plant of bright orange color in the garden center and could not resist, although the purchase was not cheap! But I did not regret it even once. The next year I bought a different variety, and today everyone comes to admire the multi-colored ears of my lupins - no one has such flowers!
Sun
Best of all, the lupines themselves were shown on a sunny spot on sandy soil with a small addition of humic fertilizers. Lime and strongly fertilized soil
lupine does not like. We did not protect the weeds until the first year. then the lupine itself will stand for itself.
Lupine grew and blossomed beautifully for four years, then the flowers were chopped, and I realized that if I want to preserve this particular variety, I should multiply the plant. And here it turned out that the old bush of lupine was not divided, the rhizome became numb and almost died.
How to keep the variety
In order not to lose the plant, I gathered the seeds and sowed them in the winter. Everyone survived, grew, and when they bloomed in three years, there was no limit to disappointment - they lost the chic orange color of their parents. Since then I propagate lupins only vegetatively - by cuttings. Only then will the “children” retain all the parental characteristics.
On the cuttings I take basal rosettes, they develop from the kidneys on the root neck.
Cooking for reproduction
To cuttings it was easier to separate, I prepare an adult bush for cuttings in advance. In autumn, I plant it with good soil, and this stimulates the active growth of lateral roots and ground outlets, which I then carefully cut out with a piece of root and plant. I conduct this operation after flowering.
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Perennial lupine blooms beautifully, improving the decorative pattern of the front garden, and it can also be used as top dressing. I sow a plant at different times: in spring, summer and before winter. As soon as the lupine flowers begin to fade, I cut off the inflorescences to the first leaves - thanks to this, new shoots form, and the plant blooms again.
Lupine needs protection from numerous enemies. For example, from bean aphids; its larvae and adult insects suck juice from leaves and flowers. Leaves turn yellow and fall. I get rid of aphids with the help of onion peel - it must be poured with hot water, insist for a day, strain, diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 4. Alfalfa scoop is also dangerous - its caterpillars eat the leaves. Last year, I saved the lupins thanks to the pharmacy daisy. Pour it with boiling water, insist 12 hours, strain, dilute the infusion (it turned out 2 l) 10 l of water and mix with 40 g of soap. After spraying, the scoop disappeared.
Lupine attracts a lot of useful pollinators to the garden, he also extracts nutrients from deep layers of soil where other plants do not have access, and his crushed green mass serves as an excellent fertilizer if buried around the bushes of currant or gooseberry to a depth of 7-10 cm .
The rhizomes of perennial lupine are rich in nutrients. You can dig out the old rhizomes, cut off the green parts, chop them, pour them with soft (rainwater) water (1: 3) and insist in darkness 48 h. If you pour strawberries with such fertilizer, it grows larger and fruits until frost.