Raspberry in spring - care and pest control in raspberry
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HOW TO CONTROL RASPBERRY PESTS: MOTHS, FLIES AND GALLMITIES. WORK IN MALINNIKA IN SPRING
Spring work in raspberries is better to start as early as possible, until it has snowed.
Raspberry in the spring: care
All operations to free bushes from hibernation seem to be simple in execution. But if they are not held, raspberries will be bad, it will not give a normal harvest
Where the summer raspberry bushes were bent in the fall, the stems should be carefully freed from the shelter and allowed to straighten.
Further, the stems that wintered in the free state (like the bent ones) should be fixed on the support, for example, tied to the trellis wire (pre-tensioned if it sagged). Maybe I'll have to pull a new or some strong twine-substitute.
There are a lot of ways to attach the stems to the trellis wire, the most common ones are to “braid” with a single string of twine or tie 1-2 stems with a separate ribbon. You can cut out templates for attaching raspberry bushes to a trellis from a sheet of any flexible material.
Simultaneously, the summer varieties remove unfit for fruiting or extra stems. The left stems are shortened at a height of 2 m or higher. However, it is possible to refuse the operation of shortening, but then the tips of the stems should be bent and bound to the wire additionally.
In autumn (remontant) varieties completely cut off last year, fruit bearing autumn stalks. However, in the varieties of this category with a limited number and excessive height of the stems, it is permissible to shorten them by removing the upper part bearing fruit in autumn, keeping the lower height
See also: Raspberry planting and care
Fighting pest raspberries in the spring
In plants inhabited by larvae of the fly, we urgently need to cut off the tip of the pruner by 3-5 cm below the bend point and cut 1,2-1,5 m all cut (guided by a well-formed and unharmed kidney in winter). In this case, you can actually get two crops from one stem (and the bush as a whole): in autumn on young shoots and on them next summer, before fruiting begins on new young shoots.
Having completed the normalization, fastening and shortening of the stems, we urgently need to take care of the protection of plants from harmful organisms. In the fight against the raspberry buds, 1-2 will require spraying as soon as the soil at the base of the bushes is bare of snow. A little later, it is necessary to follow the condition of the kidneys responsibly.
In case they do not open and look like a frozen, nasoculum knife, cut a suspicious kidney to see if there is a pink caterpillar in the stem.
If there is a “swath”, and even in other buds, the entire stem should be cut off immediately at the base before adult adults and immediately burn. There is another option: you can rely on the development of additional buds (many varieties in each leaf axil may have up to 3 pieces) yes, some harvest is still possible this year, but due to the high level of pest development on the crop in subsequent years do not have to count.
As soon as the “slots” of the first young shoots of substitution and offspring appear on the soil surface, it is necessary to prophylactically carry out 2-3 sprayings (with an interval of two to three days) against the raspberry fly.
It is necessary to act according to this scheme: the flight of females is not instantaneous and each is not limited to a single "sowing".
And in the future, throughout the entire flight period of females, it is necessary to observe the state of “nettles” - young shoots, from the moment they appear on the soil surface until the time when they reach 20-centimeter growth. In plants inhabited by fly larvae, the tips of the insignia slightly (then more) subside and then become violet-black, rot, and die.
Once again, it is simple to verify the presence of the larva in the shoot - it is easy enough to pull the drooping top.
It comes off the ring of the path made by the larva. In such shoots, we urgently need to cut off the tip of the X-axis at 3-5 cm below the bend point and cut all the cuttings. In summer varieties, the growth of shoots after the operation will continue, and hope for fructification will continue next year. In autumn varieties, the delayed shoot growth associated with the operation can delay the flowering and ripening of berries.
Shoots with bulges at the base - nests in which larvae are located cauline gall midges - it is necessary to cut and remove in the autumn, but it is allowed as early as possible in the spring.
The fight against raspberry bug begins with the early spring melting of the soil under the bushes, the removal of weeds, tk. some of them are intermediate hosts of the pest. The true battle will continue when the adult individuals migrate to the raspberry during the extension, detachment of the buds, the beginning of flowering.
While the buds are not opened, sprayings are allowed. If there is such an opportunity, it makes sense for the period of the migration of beetles to cover the bushes with film, collect the pest on it and destroy it.
See also: Growing remont raspberries - varieties and care
Growing raspberries on a note:
In plants populated by the larvae of a fly, it is necessary to urgently cut off the tip of the pruner by 3-5 cm below the bend point and cut everything off!
Shoots with swellings at the base - nests containing stem gall midge larvae - can be cut and removed earlier
In combating the raspberry buds, 1-2 will require spraying as soon as the soil at the base of the bushes is bare of snow
Growing and caring for raspberries: personal experience
Raspberry propagation
The best method is to obtain root suckers. In early spring or autumn, after fruiting, we plant the uterine adult raspberry bush in a trench filled with a nutrient mixture (compost, organic fertilizers, a glass of ash would not hurt; mix everything with plant soil and spill with water). We straighten the roots, spread them along the entire length of the trench (if space allows, in a wide circle around the trunk), fill them to a depth of 30 cm, water them well, trample them down tightly, mulch with peat or compost.
To accelerate the appearance of sprouts during planting, Elena Ivanovna slightly cuts (cuts) the spreading roots with a knife (2-3 mm) on the opposite side of the buds in several places after 20-25 cm. Own roots soon form from these notches. In the next season, she separates new plants with secateurs and plants them as independent bushes according to the 0,5 × 2-3 pattern м.
How and when do you cut raspberries?
As soon as the collection of berries is finished (in ordinary raspberries - in summer, in remontant - in autumn), we cut off all the fruiting stems at ground level. At the same time, we remove weak and too thickened shoots from summer raspberries. We burn. In the spring, summer raspberries slightly, by 15-20 cm, shorten the young shoots.
Mulch
Raspberries are very fond of a magnificent "nourishing" "pillow" from mulch. Over time, over-ripening, the mulch feeds the plant and, most importantly, keeps the soil moist. At the same time, in addition to traditional peat, compost or rotted manure, raspberries willingly “accept” mown or cut grass, cut stems of perennial flowers.
We collect everything during the season and put it in compost heaps or stack, condensing, under raspberry bushes. Manure can also be planted in this material, as well as wood ash (about a glass on a bush).
Is it necessary to water the raspberry in the heat?
We water 1-2 buckets of water under the bush once a week. This “drinking” regime helps raspberries survive drought.
What would you recommend to beginners who are just starting to grow raspberries? - Beginning gardeners usually very sorry for their plants when pruning, removing unnecessary shoots (we also went through this), and thereby only harm their pets. After all, the correct pruning is the rejuvenation of the plant, the formation of a “transparent” bush, where the sun is available to each stem, airing, enough nutrition. Therefore, arm yourself with secateurs and feel like a “green hairdresser”, and then admire how raspberries become prettier and transformed after a competent pruning!
© Author: Ilona BUTOVSKAYA.
RASPBERRY PEST CONTROL - TIPS AND REVIEWS
HOW TO GET RID OF THE RASPBERRY BEETLE IN THE RASPBERRY BREED
With the first warm weather, the raspberry beetle begins to take over the berry fields. I urgently save the bushes from it: I need to do it before the bug starts laying eggs, otherwise the larvae will damage the berries. Early in the morning I shake off pests onto a Vaseline-smeared plywood board. Sometimes you have to do this several times.
I fertilize with mullein infusion: I pour 2-3 buckets under raspberries, 1,5-2 buckets under blackberries.
Around the raspberry bushes I scatter 2-2,5 tbsp. wood ash per 1 sq.m. For blackberries, I prepare a solution: I dilute 250 g of ash in 12 liters of water, leave for two days, then mix thoroughly and pour 1,5-2 buckets under the bushes. I noticed that the ash made the berries larger and sweeter.
Raspberry and blackberry bushes love mulching. I always keep a 5-7 cm layer of tree bark under them.
© Author: Galina NIKOLAEVA, Moscow region.
© Author E. Yaroslavtsev In the photo above: 1. Raspberry escape damaged by raspberry fly 2. Raspberry kidney moth. 3. Bloating on raspberries is a nest of stem gall midge.
WHAT AND HOW TO TREAT RASPBERRY FROM PESTS IN SPRING - VIDEO
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Real raspberry tree - tutaymer - cultivation, care and expert reviews
- Repairing raspberries - planting and care (Volgograd region)
- Double pruning raspberries
- Raspberry Variety Orange Miracle - Care Tips
- Repair raspberries - the best varieties, planting and care
- Varieties of yellow and black raspberries, reviews and descriptions of varieties
- Raspberry varieties Stolichnaya, Patricia and Brigantine - my reviews
- Raspberry sprawl - about fashionable varieties and types of raspberries in light of the problem
- Autumn pruning raspberry raspberry
- Care for raspberries on trellises (Mordovia)
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Septoria raspberry
White spot (or septoria) is a common fungal disease of raspberries and related crops. In the beginning, small light brown spots appear on the leaves. Then they turn white, increase in size, a brown or purple border may appear around the edges. Black dots are visible on the spots - spores. Whitish spots with black dots appear on diseased stems. In these places, the bark is cracking. The leaves turn brown and dry up. Infected bushes do not bear fruit well and eventually die.
What to do
To deal with septoria, dig up the soil under the raspberry bushes in early spring.
Cut off the tops of weakly affected shoots.
Before bud break, spray raspberries with Bordeaux liquid (300 g per 10 liters of water). Repeat the treatment before flowering (during the promotion of buds), as well as after harvesting raspberries (100 g per 10 liters of water).
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At one time, we had hard times in the raspberries: the raspberry beetle took a fancy to our plantings and harmed as best it could. He spoiled leaves, flowers, and the most offensive - berries. But we did not endure it for a long time and began to fight it.
During the budding period, the bushes were sprayed a couple of times with a solution of mustard: 100 g of the powder was poured with boiling water, stirred to a mushy mass, and then this mass was dissolved in a bucket of warm water. In parallel with spraying, beetles were shaken daily from the stems into a bucket of water.
Pest larvae overwinter in the ground under raspberries. Therefore, in the spring, we carefully removed a 20 cm layer of earth around the bushes and replaced it with another soil. The new soil was sprinkled with dry mustard powder.
These methods of pest control helped us get rid of it. Not immediately, of course, gradually. So far, so far, everything is fine, and raspberries please us with tasty and healthy berries.
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Experts comments
Removing a 20 cm layer of earth is laborious and not always effective. In addition, raspberry roots can be damaged. It is more practical to mulch the soil with non-woven material. On the one hand, it will prevent the raspberry beetle from leaving the soil in the spring, on the other hand, it will not allow it to return to the soil for wintering. Any non-woven breathable material (spunbond, agro-span) will do. You can also use peat or coniferous sawdust. It is recommended to lay mulch in early spring, after digging the soil.
Natalia Solonovich, agronomist
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The main work in the raspberry
In August I feed summer raspberries: in 10 liters of water I breed in 1 tablespoons. double superphosphate and potassium sulfate, and under each bush I pour 1 l.
I cut off the stems and spray the plants with Zircon (according to the instructions).
Annual shoots damaged by stem gall midge (swelling on the shoots indicate this), cut to the base and burn. I remove the extra growth, leaving 2-4 escape to the bush.
Signs of the appearance of a spider mite on raspberries: leaves on the outside turn pale, small white spots appear, the lower side is covered with cobwebs. I tear off and burn these leaves, and spray the bush with Fufanon-nova.
Against the spotting of shoots and raspberry leaves after pruning, I treat the plants with Bordeaux liquid (100 g per 10 l of water).
In young shoots, on which I plan to harvest next year, I pinch the tops (on 10-20 cm).
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After harvesting, process raspberries against raspberry-strawberry weevil Fufanon, strawberries from strawberry mites - Actellik (all according to the instructions) or colloidal sulfur solution (100 g per 10 l of water). If there are a lot of ticks, spray again after 2 weeks. Colloidal sulfur will also help against spotting on fruit trees. Of the biological drugs, you can use Fitosporin.
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I have a plot in the garden where the raspberries have been growing for 10 for years. The last three years with her trouble. Twigs are formed on the branches, they break off (with and without berries). What is this attack and how to fight it? Chemical means of struggle did not apply, but for the winter raspberries were cut out under the root and dug up the earth. Alas, but it did not help.
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Thickening on the stems of your raspberries are original capsules (galls) in which a specific raspberry pest settles-the raspberry gall midges. This is a small flying insect, the stage of development of the larva of which passes inside the stems of raspberries (both young and older). The larva actively feeds live tissues of stems, eating them from the inside. As the development develops, the larva eats up new tissues that are above the gall. In a number of cases, the death of an escape is noted above the site of the lesion.
Infection of raspberry bushes occurs in the spring, usually during raspberry blossom. Winged insects choose places with cracks on the stalk surface, where eggs are laid. The larvae quickly gnaw through the stalk and settle in it. With time, a visual thickening is formed in this place. In the autumn, gal-larva larvae usually get out of the capsule and creep into the soil for the winter. The depth and area of the pest can be significant, so digging does not have a significant effect. In this case, larvae often winter in the galls themselves, especially in warm winters. In the spring, the larva turns into a flying insect, is selected from the soil and the process of raspberry infection is repeated.
There is no effective chemical means of combating gall midges. The only thing that can be done in this case is to fight the pest mechanically. To do this, periodically check the raspberry for any blisters and immediately cut this shoot (at 10-15 cm below the blister) and burn. The places of the cut are covered with garden vine. Regular inspection and removal of pest galls may interrupt the cycle of insect development and ultimately lead to victory over it.
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In mid-May, I take a watch - regularly inspect the tops of young raspberry shoots. After all, it is here that during this period the females of the stem fly lay their eggs. If the pest is not noticed in time, the appeared larvae will invade the stem, gnaw passages to the ground there and destroy the shoots.
If, at the next round, I see that the tops of raspberries began to develop poorly, the leaves acquired an unusual shade, I understand that there clearly was not a fly.
Sick shoots immediately cut and burn. For prevention, I use insecticides - I prepare a solution according to the instructions and spray them with raspberries during the swelling of the kidneys. In addition, in early May, loosening the soil in raspberries, sealed under each bush for 1 tbsp. l nitroammophoski. In the autumn, I rake the leaves, burn them and dig the soil.
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In summer, such a picture was observed on the raspberry: thickenings formed on the stems, the top, along with the berries that had already begun to set, dried up ... Is this a disease or some kind of pest worked?
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The main pest of raspberries is gall midges, which affects both young shoots of substitution and stems. They form ring blisters-outgrowths, or cones (they are usually located in the lower part of the stem, closer to the root). External tissue - epidermis - crack. The stem is easily broken in this place. As a rule, one bloat and one larva on the inside, but sometimes there are two or three blisters at different distances from each other. What to do?
For mass damage, it is best to remove this raspberry plantation. A new lay in a different place, using a healthy planting material. Follow the
a number of agrotechnical rules for the cultivation of this crop:
plant raspberry resistant to diseases and pests varieties;
in the autumn cut out-fruited shoots, in the spring - small, sick, damaged;
regularly weed the plantation and loosen the soil;
mulch the root zone with peat layer in 10-15 cm;
Before flowering, treat raspberries with insecticides: Karate, Confidor, Spark, Arrivo, Fufanon, Decis, BI-58 (as instructed). For greater effect, it is possible to alternate treatment with chemical preparations and use folk methods of fighting pests and diseases.
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Malinnik: feed and drink
After harvesting the berries, after the old branches and the weak excess shoots were cut out, care should be taken to the health of the plants. It is necessary to treat the raspberry with a Bordeaux liquid (standard concentration) or copper chloride (40 g per 10 L of water). The solution is applied with a sprayer on the leaves and stems. So destroy the fungal infection that affects the leaves and stems.
As a fertilizer for raspberries are very good sawdust sawdust. But when rotting, they take a lot of nitrogen from the soil. Therefore, sawdust is pre-composted with slurry or pro-
are poured with toilet water or a solution of nitrogen fertilizers, and then subjected to composting. Sawdust is dolomite flour, this is a favorite fertilizer for raspberries and for cherries, it reduces the acidity of the soil, enriches it with calcium and magnesium. This fertilizer begins to be cooked in August, and is used in early spring: mulch the ground in a raspberry garden with a layer of 10-15. This mulcher not only fertilizes the berry, it protects the earth from drying out. Raspberry needs moist soil, rich in organic matter of wood origin. The berries will be productive, large, juicy.
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On the stems of raspberries, outgrowths like chasti fungi on the trunks of trees were formed. What is it?
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Apparently, the plant is affected by raspberry shoot gall midges. In May, females lay eggs in young shoots of raspberries and blackberries. Larvae live under the bark, and winter is shallow in the soil under the bushes. It is important to follow the rules of agricultural technology and care for planting raspberries. Do not allow mechanical damage to the bark of the shoots. In the late autumn or early spring dig up the soil under the bushes, especially at the bases of shoots. Sprinkle the plants before flowering with Fufanon (as instructed). Cut shoots with swellings.
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My mother knows a good way how quickly and without much effort to say goodbye to pests in the garden, without damaging the plant itself.
The whole winter we collected lemon, orange and tangerine peels, which were then dried, as this is an excellent helper in the fight against pest. The whole secret is that insect pests - aphids, scale insects, etc. - do not like pungent odors. Therefore, if you notice pests on plants, then spray them with a decoction of citrus peels (per 1 liter of water, 100 g peels). For prevention, crust powder can be added to the soil.
Also, a sharp citrus smell does not like wireworm, so in the places of its spread you can scatter fresh or dried mandarin crusts.
Evgenia POPTSOVAc. Letka, the Komi Republic