14

14 Review (s)

  1. Natalia KUHARCHIC, Doctor of Science

    Septoria raspberry

    White spot (or septoria) is a common fungal disease of raspberries and related crops. In the beginning, small light brown spots appear on the leaves. Then they turn white, increase in size, a brown or purple border may appear around the edges. Black dots are visible on the spots - spores. Whitish spots with black dots appear on diseased stems. In these places, the bark is cracking. The leaves turn brown and dry up. Infected bushes do not bear fruit well and eventually die.
    What to do
    To deal with septoria, dig up the soil under the raspberry bushes in early spring.
    Cut off the tops of weakly affected shoots.
    Before bud break, spray raspberries with Bordeaux liquid (300 g per 10 liters of water). Repeat the treatment before flowering (during the promotion of buds), as well as after harvesting raspberries (100 g per 10 liters of water).

    Reply
  2. Elena Pisarenko, Saratov region

    At one time, we had hard times in the raspberries: the raspberry beetle took a fancy to our plantings and harmed as best it could. He spoiled leaves, flowers, and the most offensive - berries. But we did not endure it for a long time and began to fight it.
    During the budding period, the bushes were sprayed a couple of times with a solution of mustard: 100 g of the powder was poured with boiling water, stirred to a mushy mass, and then this mass was dissolved in a bucket of warm water. In parallel with spraying, beetles were shaken daily from the stems into a bucket of water.
    Pest larvae overwinter in the ground under raspberries. Therefore, in the spring, we carefully removed a 20 cm layer of earth around the bushes and replaced it with another soil. The new soil was sprinkled with dry mustard powder.
    These methods of pest control helped us get rid of it. Not immediately, of course, gradually. So far, so far, everything is fine, and raspberries please us with tasty and healthy berries.

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      Experts comments

      Removing a 20 cm layer of earth is laborious and not always effective. In addition, raspberry roots can be damaged. It is more practical to mulch the soil with non-woven material. On the one hand, it will prevent the raspberry beetle from leaving the soil in the spring, on the other hand, it will not allow it to return to the soil for wintering. Any non-woven breathable material (spunbond, agro-span) will do. You can also use peat or coniferous sawdust. It is recommended to lay mulch in early spring, after digging the soil.

      Natalia Solonovich, agronomist

      Reply
  3. Lily

    The main work in the raspberry
    In August I feed summer raspberries: in 10 liters of water I breed in 1 tablespoons. double superphosphate and potassium sulfate, and under each bush I pour 1 l.
    I cut off the stems and spray the plants with Zircon (according to the instructions).
    Annual shoots damaged by stem gall midge (swelling on the shoots indicate this), cut to the base and burn. I remove the extra growth, leaving 2-4 escape to the bush.
    Signs of the appearance of a spider mite on raspberries: leaves on the outside turn pale, small white spots appear, the lower side is covered with cobwebs. I tear off and burn these leaves, and spray the bush with Fufanon-nova.

    Against the spotting of shoots and raspberry leaves after pruning, I treat the plants with Bordeaux liquid (100 g per 10 l of water).
    In young shoots, on which I plan to harvest next year, I pinch the tops (on 10-20 cm).

    Reply
  4. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    After harvesting, process raspberries against raspberry-strawberry weevil Fufanon, strawberries from strawberry mites - Actellik (all according to the instructions) or colloidal sulfur solution (100 g per 10 l of water). If there are a lot of ticks, spray again after 2 weeks. Colloidal sulfur will also help against spotting on fruit trees. Of the biological drugs, you can use Fitosporin.

    Reply
  5. Raisa Bondarenko

    I have a plot in the garden where the raspberries have been growing for 10 for years. The last three years with her trouble. Twigs are formed on the branches, they break off (with and without berries). What is this attack and how to fight it? Chemical means of struggle did not apply, but for the winter raspberries were cut out under the root and dug up the earth. Alas, but it did not help.

    Reply
    • OOO "Sad"

      Thickening on the stems of your raspberries are original capsules (galls) in which a specific raspberry pest settles-the raspberry gall midges. This is a small flying insect, the stage of development of the larva of which passes inside the stems of raspberries (both young and older). The larva actively feeds live tissues of stems, eating them from the inside. As the development develops, the larva eats up new tissues that are above the gall. In a number of cases, the death of an escape is noted above the site of the lesion.

      Infection of raspberry bushes occurs in the spring, usually during raspberry blossom. Winged insects choose places with cracks on the stalk surface, where eggs are laid. The larvae quickly gnaw through the stalk and settle in it. With time, a visual thickening is formed in this place. In the autumn, gal-larva larvae usually get out of the capsule and creep into the soil for the winter. The depth and area of ​​the pest can be significant, so digging does not have a significant effect. In this case, larvae often winter in the galls themselves, especially in warm winters. In the spring, the larva turns into a flying insect, is selected from the soil and the process of raspberry infection is repeated.

      There is no effective chemical means of combating gall midges. The only thing that can be done in this case is to fight the pest mechanically. To do this, periodically check the raspberry for any blisters and immediately cut this shoot (at 10-15 cm below the blister) and burn. The places of the cut are covered with garden vine. Regular inspection and removal of pest galls may interrupt the cycle of insect development and ultimately lead to victory over it.

      Reply
  6. Ilya ROGOV, Ivanovo

    In mid-May, I take a watch - regularly inspect the tops of young raspberry shoots. After all, it is here that during this period the females of the stem fly lay their eggs. If the pest is not noticed in time, the appeared larvae will invade the stem, gnaw passages to the ground there and destroy the shoots.

    If, at the next round, I see that the tops of raspberries began to develop poorly, the leaves acquired an unusual shade, I understand that there clearly was not a fly.

    Sick shoots immediately cut and burn. For prevention, I use insecticides - I prepare a solution according to the instructions and spray them with raspberries during the swelling of the kidneys. In addition, in early May, loosening the soil in raspberries, sealed under each bush for 1 tbsp. l nitroammophoski. In the autumn, I rake the leaves, burn them and dig the soil.

    Reply
  7. K.A. Rakytskyi

    In summer, such a picture was observed on the raspberry: thickenings formed on the stems, the top, along with the berries that had already begun to set, dried up ... Is this a disease or some kind of pest worked?

    Reply
    • Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

      The main pest of raspberries is gall midges, which affects both young shoots of substitution and stems. They form ring blisters-outgrowths, or cones (they are usually located in the lower part of the stem, closer to the root). External tissue - epidermis - crack. The stem is easily broken in this place. As a rule, one bloat and one larva on the inside, but sometimes there are two or three blisters at different distances from each other. What to do?
      For mass damage, it is best to remove this raspberry plantation. A new lay in a different place, using a healthy planting material. Follow the
      a number of agrotechnical rules for the cultivation of this crop:

      plant raspberry resistant to diseases and pests varieties;
      in the autumn cut out-fruited shoots, in the spring - small, sick, damaged;
      regularly weed the plantation and loosen the soil;
      mulch the root zone with peat layer in 10-15 cm;
      Before flowering, treat raspberries with insecticides: Karate, Confidor, Spark, Arrivo, Fufanon, Decis, BI-58 (as instructed). For greater effect, it is possible to alternate treatment with chemical preparations and use folk methods of fighting pests and diseases.

      Reply
  8. KISELEVA Tatarstan

    Malinnik: feed and drink
    After harvesting the berries, after the old branches and the weak excess shoots were cut out, care should be taken to the health of the plants. It is necessary to treat the raspberry with a Bordeaux liquid (standard concentration) or copper chloride (40 g per 10 L of water). The solution is applied with a sprayer on the leaves and stems. So destroy the fungal infection that affects the leaves and stems.
    As a fertilizer for raspberries are very good sawdust sawdust. But when rotting, they take a lot of nitrogen from the soil. Therefore, sawdust is pre-composted with slurry or pro-
    are poured with toilet water or a solution of nitrogen fertilizers, and then subjected to composting. Sawdust is dolomite flour, this is a favorite fertilizer for raspberries and for cherries, it reduces the acidity of the soil, enriches it with calcium and magnesium. This fertilizer begins to be cooked in August, and is used in early spring: mulch the ground in a raspberry garden with a layer of 10-15. This mulcher not only fertilizes the berry, it protects the earth from drying out. Raspberry needs moist soil, rich in organic matter of wood origin. The berries will be productive, large, juicy.

    Reply
  9. Maxim Pavlov, town of Novogrudok

    On the stems of raspberries, outgrowths like chasti fungi on the trunks of trees were formed. What is it?

    Reply
    • Andrei

      Apparently, the plant is affected by raspberry shoot gall midges. In May, females lay eggs in young shoots of raspberries and blackberries. Larvae live under the bark, and winter is shallow in the soil under the bushes. It is important to follow the rules of agricultural technology and care for planting raspberries. Do not allow mechanical damage to the bark of the shoots. In the late autumn or early spring dig up the soil under the bushes, especially at the bases of shoots. Sprinkle the plants before flowering with Fufanon (as instructed). Cut shoots with swellings.

      Reply
  10. Evgenia POPTSOVAc. Letka, the Komi Republic

    My mother knows a good way how quickly and without much effort to say goodbye to pests in the garden, without damaging the plant itself.
    The whole winter we collected lemon, orange and tangerine peels, which were then dried, as this is an excellent helper in the fight against pest. The whole secret is that insect pests - aphids, scale insects, etc. - do not like pungent odors. Therefore, if you notice pests on plants, then spray them with a decoction of citrus peels (per 1 liter of water, 100 g peels). For prevention, crust powder can be added to the soil.
    Also, a sharp citrus smell does not like wireworm, so in the places of its spread you can scatter fresh or dried mandarin crusts.
    Evgenia POPTSOVAc. Letka, the Komi Republic

    Reply

Mini-forum of gardeners

Your email will not be visible