Formation of tomatoes - indeterminate and deterministic
Tomatoes for the North and South - formation
You come to any self-respecting seed store before the start of the season, eyes are staring from the variety of tomato seeds offered! And the pictures on the bags are good, and the seeds inside are felt plump ... What to choose, especially for a beginner?
We begin to read texts on packages and often stumble over incomprehensible words: sort “indeterminate","determinant"...
First, pay attention to the region for which a particular variety is intended. It will be strange in Vologda, for example, to grow something intended for the Kuban,
Then, for sure, there will be information about the yield of the crop - the variety is early, medium, late. Estimate how much positive temperatures acceptable for the growth of tomatoes are held in your area, and make a decision.
And further. Pay attention to the resistance of the variety to diseases. The above three triad of signs at 80% will determine your choice. And the rest 20%?
Reference by topic: Tomatoes: planting and leaving from A to Z
Determinative and indeterminate tomatoes
Define them once and for all. Initially, all science spoke Latin, and even now the terminology in the majority has Latin roots.
The verb terminare in Russian means "stop", "limit". Has it become a little clearer? Varieties indeterminate have unlimited growth. For perennial tomatoes, nothing strange.
In suitable conditions and with the appropriate agrotechnics, they will grow and bear fruit for a year, two, and more. The famous variety Octopus, eg.
Grades of determinants permanently cease to grow after the formation of several brushes with ovaries. The second wave of growth is much weaker.
And there are sorts of super determinants.
All plant growth points quickly turn into a generative state, that is, they are able to form only flower brushes and “feed” the fruits. These varieties are characterized by the earliest and friendliest return of the crop and are especially good for northern gardeners who do not even have time to really bask in the short summer.
See also: Growing and pasynkovannoe tall indeterminate tomato
Formation of tomatoes
Only super-determinant varieties almost do not need formation.
Having quickly built up the necessary vegetative mass, they are engaged only in the nurturing of the fruits that have begun. Ripe tomato on the vine is the norm for them. But with two other groups of varieties will have to master the profession of "hairdresser".
In the plant of an indeterminate variety, the apical growth point first regularly drives the leaves. After they are deployed around 10. it goes into a generative phase, forms an inflorescence.
And the growth of the shoot continues through the activation of the axillary bud of the last leaf, a kind of overturning of the bush occurs.
The newly made "center" issues 3-4 leaves and forms the next inflorescence. Growth is temporarily suspended, but it is replaced by the axillary shoot of the latter again under the inflorescence of the leaf, and everything continues. The entire formed slightly cranked axis is called the main stem.
Such a plant yields the harvest for a long time, evenly and unhurriedly. These varieties are good for our southern regions, where the tomato is warm for at least five months a year.
They are formed more often in one, less often in two stems, constantly removing the emerging stepchildren (extra axillary shoots).
The bush should be removed all the stalk leaves under the first knotted brush, and just above it should not be more than three. A couple of weeks before noticeable nocturnal cold snap all the tops and new ovaries should be pinched.
Determinant varieties quite sharply “slow down” in the growth of green mass after the formation of about 5 inflorescences. The first inflorescence is laid about 7th leaf, the next - after 1-2 leaves.
The second wave of growth begins when the first fruits begin to reach technical ripeness.
It will be weaker, and after the formation of the 2 ovaries the growth point will be pinched (at this time you will have 6-7 inflorescences with fruits in different stages of development on the bush) and remove all the extra leaves, as in the indeterminate varieties.
To ensure that most of the ovaries are surely turned into a full-fat tomato, do not expect them all to ripen: two or three of the first can be brought to full ripeness in the bush, and the others are removed when the color that characterizes the variety begins to appear on the fruits and dosazrivayte.
Good for non-Black Earth and Northwest greenhouses and open ground for more southern regions.
Reference by topic: Cultivation of determinant tomatoes - formation and pasynkovanie
Word of the master
And finally, let’s quote the words of the luminaries, the author of many famous varieties and methods of growing different tomatoes, Sergei Fedorovich Gavrish: “... many gardeners do not want to spend money on seeds, and they are attracted to varieties that can be easily propagated independently. But this is a trap!
Yes, in our country there are many such varieties, but most of them are “orphans”, which no one has been seriously engaged in for a long time. After all, any variety needs to be maintained, to conduct special selections so that it retains its qualities.
An amateur or a businessman who wants to get more goods for sale can not cope with this.
Behind each grade should be a person who cares about his fate. —That is, the author, the breeder. Ideally, he guarantees that the seeds are not only germinating, but also 100% varietal.
However, almost 95% of the varieties that can be propagated on their own have not been accompanied by authors for a long time and are gradually turning into “garbage”, only the name remains.
Let’s say, sow the White filling variety today - although you will have a tomato and not a cucumber, it will not be the White filling that we all loved so 20 years ago. ”
How to form tomatoes
I’ll say without false modesty: tomatoes are my hobby. There are different groups of varieties of this plant. Indeterminate - high, they have an unlimited growth point. The determinants form a powerful, but lower bush.
After the tomatoes planted in a greenhouse or in the open ground, have got accustomed, they start to develop intensively. From the sinuses of the leaves grow stepsons, and if not remove them, these branches will take food from the plant, thicken it, which contributes to the appearance of diseases, the most dangerous of which is late blight.
It is necessary to remove the stepsons until they have reached 5 cm. On a sunny morning they just gently break off, leaving a “stump” 1 cm long. By evening, the wound
will dry up. Periodically, you need to cut off the lower yellow leaves before the first flower brush, but at a time no more than 3, so that the plant does not weaken.
I form tall tomatoes in one stalk (Fig. 1), and determinant ones in 2, leaving the strongest stepson (Fig. 2). If for some reason the main trunk ceases to grow, the second will be rescued from the stepson.
Be sure to tie tomatoes so that they do not break under the weight of the fruit and are better ventilated. As I grow, I attach a small variety to the support poles (Figure 3), and the top of the indeterminate plants neatly braids around the string, the end of which I fix under the ceiling of the greenhouse (Figure 4).
Rimma STOTSKAYA, city of Tver
© Igor Nikolaevich Dmitriev. Moscow Region
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Growing cherry tomatoes in pots and containers outdoors
- Sweet tomatoes - growing in a greenhouse and varieties
- Tomato variety Zhigolo (Masculine, Female joy, Casanova, Eros, etc.) my testimonials and photos
- Growing tomatoes in the Leningrad region - tips and experience
- Growing tomatoes in the Sverdlovsk region
- Signs of ripeness of black, blue tomatoes - how to know that they are ripe?
- Joint planting of tomatoes - how to compact?
- A simple way to deal with late blight of tomatoes is my tried and tested advice (Saratov region)
- Growing varietal tomatoes in the Bryansk region - suitable varieties and care
- Unusual tomato varieties
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A neighbor forms her tall tomatoes so that the fruits grow lower, and they plant them in special holes prepared in the fall. What for? First things first ...
Seeds of tomato seedlings are sown early, for example, this year - January 31. Such a supply is necessary for seedlings to take root after a special pick, which delays their growth by two weeks. First, it sows the seeds in jars of sour cream, then dives seedlings in plastic boxes from under the cake with ready-made universal soil (puts the lid on the lid: the bottom plays the role of a pallet), and in the phase of 3 real leaves (somewhere on February 28 ) seedlings ... pruning.
When choosing varieties, the landlady pays attention to the fact that on the sachet with seeds there was a note "more than 6 kg from the bush". This is a variety of De Ba-rao. Easter egg. Thick cheeks, Elisha, Black Moor. Female happiness, Wonder of the World.
Having cut the seedling under the leaves, I remove one leaf and immediately plant the sprout in a similar box according to the scheme of at least 4 × 4 cm in shallow wells, into which 1 tsp is poured. Kornevin’s solution (1 tsp. per 1 liter of water), - says the gardener. - I tightly close the box with the film, remove it after 5 days (during this time, thanks to Kornevin, sprouts start roots) and begin to water once a week.
I do all this so that in the future fruiting on the bush does not begin after the fifth leaf, but below: my tomato fruits form almost at the very ground. By the way, in one of the seasons we had an experiment with a friend: the tomatoes dived in the usual way and the way I did - with pruning.
In the second case, the harvest was 1,5 times higher!
After picking up tomato stems, the hostess does not use sprouts later on. But her friend, Lyubov Prokofievna, does differently: the seedlings cut the leaves in half in 7 and, after picking up the tops, continues to take care of the roots, which again release the leaves, thus increasing the number of plants.
In March, the owner of the seedlings dosveschivaet 5 hours per day, and before landing in the afternoon hardens for 2 hours on the balcony. - Due to the fact that we have a bear, the seedlings are adapted to be planted in five-liter PET bottles with cut-off bottom and top. It is checked - the bear can not overcome such protection! Bury them in the greenhouse as early as autumn: at such a depth that only 10 cm of the cylinder remains on the surface. Capacities I fill with humus in each I add on 2. crushed egg shell, a handful of ash, litter of birch leaves and onion husks. And one more matchbox of complex fertilizer I divide into six bottles. In the winter, since I do not open the greenhouse, I pour one 5-liter snow bucket on each bottle (melt water is very useful). In the spring (6-
11 April) in each well for warming pour out on 0,5 l of warm water and, not deepening, planted seedlings of tomatoes. I sprinkle with fresh soil (I collect it in a bucket in the fall and keep it in the cold). First time I cover a bed under pegs with a spunbond.
Olga Knysh
Experts comments
Of course, the cropped top of the tomato easily forms new roots, but this does not mean that during the picking, the entire root system must be removed. To create powerful roots, it is sufficient to pinch off unnecessary rootlets when picking and to cut the plant down to the cotyledons.
No pruning of roots will turn a tall (non-determinant) variety into a short shrub. Under all conditions, all tall varieties need support. If you want to get a higher yield from one bush, form it in two stems, and if you have a larger crop from the area of the greenhouse - in one stem. To produce fruits closer to the ground, you can plant the seedlings deeper.
Valery MATVEEV, Doctor of Science