Gooseberries without thorns: varieties
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Growing of beech gooseberry varieties
Only to collect them from the bush is not an easy task: you will be scratched from head to foot. For excessive prickliness and many gardeners do not like this valuable culture. Therefore, they gladly discover the unscrupulous varieties.
Gooseberry - a brief biological reference
Appearance: A small shrub up to 1 m in height with a dark gray or dark brown peeling bark
Leaves: Plate with 3-5 blades and notched edge
Flowers: Bisexual, greenish or reddish, single or 2-3 in leaf axils
Fruits: Oval or almost spherical. naked or coarse-bristly. green to purple
Strong spiny plant shoots tried to eliminate as early as the beginning of the 19 century - by crossing gooseberries with currants black. As a result, a new culture - Ribelaria with varieties of Josh, Crom, Yochi on and others.
However, it only remotely resembles gooseberry.
More effective was the hybridization of large-fruited dessert Western European varieties of gooseberries with wild American bezshipnye species.
The first results were obtained in Canada. No less fruitful in this direction have worked and Russian scientists, who have already created about a dozen unscrupulous or with individual spiked varieties.
Reference by topic: Growing of gooseberries: varieties and care, pest control
Landing of the bows honeycomb combs
For gooseberries choose a well-lit area. Culture prefers fertile, medium-loamy and sandy loamy soils rich in humus. But there is no waterlogging: the occurrence of groundwater is not closer than 1 m from the surface of the earth. Planting pits are prepared with the depth and width of 40-50 cm. Add to the bottom 8-10 kg of humus or well-repaired manure, 50 g superphosphate, 40 g of potassium sulfate - all this mix well with the top fertile soil layer. Plants planting on 5-7 cm deeper than they grew in the nursery - this contributes to the additional formation of roots and shoots.
Then necessarily poured (1 bucket on the 2-3 bush), and the surface of the hole is mulched with a thin layer of dry earth, humus or peat. After planting, the aerial part is cut off, leaving the kidneys on 2-4 above each soil on each shoot.
Horseless gooseberry varieties enter fruiting at the 2 year after planting and can yield 1-1,5 kg of berries from a bush
The most favorable time for planting gooseberries is autumn (end of September - October). When spring planting, there is a danger of being late due to the early entry of the plant into vegetation, which may affect survival.
Horseless gooseberry is easily propagated by arcuate, vertical and horizontal layers, lignified and green cuttings.
The guarantee of the future harvest with the entry of gooseberry into fruiting requires regular feeding.
In spring, ammonium nitrate, urea or ammonium nitrate (10-20 g per square meter) enter the bud during bud opening (March-April) and during shoots and ovaries growth (late May-early June).
In autumn, starting from the third year after planting, add phosphate-type fertilizers - superphosphate (45 g / m2) and potash salt (30 g / m2). Gooseberries are responsive to organic, which is brought in autumn (in September-October) under the last tillage: compost is embedded in the soil, manure is used as mulch.
As fertilizer, ashes (400 g per bush - when filling berries).
In hot weather gooseberries must be watered, especially during the period of active growth and formation of the green ovary (10-15 days after flowering), during the filling of berries (for 2 weeks before harvest) and after harvesting for the flower buds - the foundation of the future harvest.
Tip:
In most varieties of silken gooseberry, low self-fertility, therefore, for pereopylenia plant 2-3 of different varieties at a distance of 1 -1,5 m from each other.
See also: Gooseberries - varieties planting and care
Spraying and processing of horseradish gooseberry varieties
Most gooseberry varieties are resistant to American powdery mildew.
But for prevention twice a season (before flowering and after harvest), plants are sprayed with Topaz, Karatan or Title (according to instructions).
Against pests in the period of leaf blossoming and before the flowering begins, the bushes are treated with one of the insecticides - Aktellik, Fufanon, Novaktion (according to the instructions).
Gooseberries: benefit
- In terms of vitamin C content, gooseberries are approaching mandarin and lemons, far superior to cherries, raspberries, plums, apples.
- Iron in the gooseberry berry is larger than in apples.
- Fresh fruits of gooseberries are useful for people who are overweight: delicious berries are ideal as a product for unloading days.
- Pectin, contained in gooseberry, removes heavy metals and radionuclides, and fruit acids help to cope with digestive problems, improving metabolism and providing a mild laxative effect.
Choose a variety of gooseberry without spines
Name | Features
(All varieties are winter hardy, resistant to powdery mildew) |
Fruit |
Tender | The bush is tall, almost without thorns. Yield - 5-6 kg per bush | Large (5-6 g), light-green, full-ripening pinkish |
Glorious | The shrub is medium-sized, thorns are found in the lower part of some basal shoots.
Yield - 4-5 kg per bush |
Large (4,5 g), red with a wax coating, sweetly sour, hangs long on a bush |
Sirius (Gulliver) | The bush is tall, unsmooth. The variety of the mid-late maturity period, yielding (up to 7 kg per bush) | Medium (2,7-3 g), not always one-dimensional, dark red with wax napetom |
Prunes | Spines are small, located in the lower part of the shoots. A variety of the early ripening period.
Productivity - 4 kg per bush |
Large (4 g), oval, dark red, with full maturation black, sweet and sour |
Also, some information about non-spiny varieties of rose hips can podcherpnut in this article
© Author: Tatyana Andrushkevich, Nauk. Comp. Rul Institute for Horticulture
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Old gooseberries - which is better to uproot or tightly cut? My reviews and experience (Voronezh)
- Gooseberry Care - Gardener Tips
- Planting, care and varieties of gooseberries: tips for gardeners
- Varieties of gooseberries are tasty and easy to care for. Recipes with gooseberry
- Why gooseberries do poorly: 6 reasons + pruning rules
- Gooseberry varieties for all regions - name and description
- Spherical gooseberry varieties - name and description
- Gooseberries - varieties for Moscow region
- Gooseberry cultivation - planting and care (Saratov region)
- How to root gooseberry
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All my relatives adore gooseberries, but they always sent me to collect it, because nobody wanted to stab their hands with sharp thorns. Once I got sick of it, and I decided to get varieties without thorns.
There were quite a few of them.
Here, for example, a variety of naughty. It has large greenish-yellow fruits that taste sweet and sour. The variety winters well and is not afraid of a disease typical of gooseberries - powdery mildew. Grade Yubilyar can also be called bearingless. In fact, he has spikes, but not many, and they are very small. The fruits of the Jubilee are of medium size and large, red in color, taste sweet-sour. The variety easily tolerates frosts, but is occasionally affected by fungi.
A significant part of the site is now occupied by the Commander, a red-fruited variety that is not afraid of frost or powdery mildew.
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Since childhood I love gooseberry. Now on the site 2 varieties - Ravol and Coral. I plant plants in the middle of September (seedlings only get in specialized nurseries). For a couple of weeks I prepare pits with a diameter and depth of 0,5 m. I fill up: the fertile layer of the earth (2 / 3 from the pit) is mixed with manure bucket (can compost) and 200-250 d complex mineral fertilizer. The remaining fertile layer (1 / 3 part) is poured on top of the mound. By the time of landing, the mixture in the pit will settle. The root neck is buried at 5 cm, I compact the soil well, water, mulch with humus. That the plant developed better, I cut off shoots - I leave 5-7 above the ground.
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Gooseberries are protected from enemies by their sharp spines. But he does not spare his friends, especially when he is harvesting. And meanwhile there is a way to tame this "hedgehog".
Make his thorns not sharp, which means that the fire helps to protect them. In autumn, bushes on which there are no leaves or they are about to fall, you need to sing. To do this, you can use a torch from a folded newspaper or a wooden stick taken from a fire. The flames must be carried quickly enough along the branches, without stopping, so as not to accidentally set fire to the bush itself. This "fallen" is enough to burn the ends of the spikes, as a result, they stop pricking.
At the same time, spores of powdery mildew and other dangerous
fungi that cause diseases of gooseberry. Favorably reflected this procedure and the wintering of gooseberries, which generally increases immunity.
I think that the effect of fire applies to other plants that have sharp thorns - roses, rose hips, barberries, and hawthorn. It is only necessary to choose the safest time for each of these plants — it is important that it already “falls asleep” in preparation for winter.
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Rosehip - a completely unpretentious plant. The main thing is not to forget to water it in a dry summer and cut dry twigs that have outlived their spring in the spring. I prefer to plant Russian rosehip varieties with beautiful flowers and large berries. At the same time, the plants do not occupy a place in the garden, but serve as a wonderful hedge between my and neighboring sites. I noticed that a neighbor quietly for her part collects rose hips at the end of summer, but I do not mind, because the plants produce a lot of fruits.
Cultivating varieties: Vorontsovsky 1. Large-fruited VNVI, Crimson and the Globe. All of them have large fruits. I do not like trifles, although they say it's easier to dry, but it's more pleasant for me to collect large ones. In this case, all varieties are frost-resistant. For the winter, I do not harbor shrubs, and they suffer frosts without loss. The most important thing is that the fruit of the dog rose the vitamin C content is incredibly high, so let my neighbor rejoice that I am so prudent. In winter, for a cold, I think my dog-brews!
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RUSSIAN FRIDGE
The real pride of the Russian selection is the Russian gooseberry.
It ripens in the second half of June, is famous for its high productivity. The berries of the "real Russian" are delicious, dark red, medium in size. Another big plus of the variety is it is self-fertile, and also an excellent pollinator for other varieties. In fairness, I’ll say that in my garden there is also the Russian Yellow variety, which is not inferior to it, with berries of the same size, but yellow. Their flesh is tender and juicy.
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Cured gooseberries and currants
Last year in June, gooseberry and black currant "settled" American powdery mildew. This fungal disease over time causes a sharp decline in yield, and then a complete death of the bush.
External signs: on the young branches and the inner surface of the leaves there appears a white cobwebby coating, the affected shoots cease to grow, are bent and
wither. Berries are covered with a touch, crack, dry up. At the first signs of the disease, I filled half a bucket of ash with two buckets of hot water and insisted for two days. Sprayed the bushes. After 10 days treated with another compound: 50 g of soda ash and 30 g of soap dissolved in a bucket of water. And even after 10 days such: 100 g of copper sulfate and 50 g of soap dissolved again in a bucket of water. It helped. A