14 Review (s)

  1. Natalia KICHINA, Smolenskaya obl.

    Plant cabbage where there used to be potato beds or beets, onions. Then the crop yield will increase significantly.
    And lay in the holes when planting cabbage seedlings on a shovel of humus, a handful of ash and one peeled potato tuber of medium size. Potatoes under the influence of composting bacteria will gradually decompose, mix with ash and, together with it, supply all the microelements necessary for the active growth of cabbage. This is the best natural fertilizer known to me.

    About this method, I learned from one grandmother, who was selling very delicious sauerkraut near my house. Thanks to him, my heads grow large and crispy.

  2. Nikolay ERMIKOV, Bryansk

    In order for the cabbage to grow healthy, I plant it away from the apple, cherry, viburnum and plum - for some reason, it is near them that cabbage often suffers from pests. I stick sprigs of wormwood between the future heads of cabbage, sow coriander and marigolds nearby, as their smell scares away insects that annoy the cabbage.

    To my landing did not attack slugs, mulch the soil with nettle. Periodically I inspect the leaves of cabbage from the lower side. If I see the larvae of a cabbage scoop, I spray the plants with an ash solution (for 10 l water 2 a glass of wood ash and 1 a liter of liquid soap). I also work with a mixture of slugs and a cabbage fly: I mix 1 a glass of lime and wood ash, 1 tsp. red pepper or mustard powder. I sprinkle this mixture and aisle. Thanks to such prevention my cabbage is whole!

  3. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    I grow a lot of everything, everything grows well, but with cabbage, it's been three years now. And I do not understand what's the matter!
    Sow, grows - and suddenly falls. They say that it is a black leg. But no black at ground level, and then good, and the root too. I buy different seeds: ka is empty in the context of green, and these hefty ribs - neither chop nor time to beat. Cabbage has always been white, but alas!
    Last year they didn't even ferment - they grew very rough, and our whole family really love cabbage.

  4. Dmitry Kharchevich, Bryansk

    Cabbage from the refrigerator
    The first 2 year I sowed cabbage for seedlings in old basins and boxes. I had to bring them home at night so that the seedlings on the street would not freeze, but in the morning they would take out again so that the seedlings would grow better in the sun. And so before transplanting into the ground.
    Last year, I somehow took out the garbage and saw a scrapped refrigerator in the dump. Without thinking twice, he took him to the dacha and made a nursery for cabbage.
    To do this, detached the door, laid the refrigerator on the back wall, to the bottom
    laid out the manure, last year's leaves, all watered well and fell asleep with earth. Top covered with a frame with glass.
    Since then, I sow cabbage only in the refrigerator! I do this at the end of April and do not worry that my seedlings will suffer from frost. The walls of the nursery are thick, do not freeze. From below, the manure produces heat. In the morning I just open the frame for airing.
    Cabbage seedlings grow "zhirnenkaya", bright green and not stretched.

  5. Tatiana OKOLITSYNA, Kostroma

    We sow cabbage in the ground
    With the onset of stable heat, cabbage can be sown immediately into the ground. To do this, the soil must be loosened, make holes at a distance of 30-35 cm from each other, add to each little ashes and mix it with the ground. Seeds for a day to soak in a damp napkin.
    Pour the wells with warm water, put in each a few swollen seeds. Sprinkle with soil and cover each well from the top - you can use a glass jar, you can use a transparent plastic lid from the cake.
    Some time after the emergence of seedlings, the weakest in the hole must be removed. Moreover, it is not worth pulling them out by the root - this can damage the roots of the remaining plant. It is better to gently break off excess seedlings.
    From above, the plants must again be covered with jars - to protect against temperature changes, cold winds and drying out. You can remove the shelter when the plant gets stronger and it already becomes cramped “under the hood”.
    Later, it's a good idea to "plant" the plant in a wide ring, cut off from a plastic bottle. Such rings effectively protect young cabbage from slugs.

  6. Summerman, gardener and gardener (anonymous)

    Cabbage - in the mud
    Cabbage seedlings before planting pickled in the solution of the drug from root-eating pests. Usually I use Prestige (20 ml per 2 L of water) - I lower the roots in the solution for 6-8 hours before disembarking. Or Matador (10 ml per 200 ml of water): soak time - 1 hour.
    The best cabbage gets accustomed to landing in the mud. If you plant her seedlings in a dry soil, and then water, there is a risk that the plants will be dragged into the ground deeper than necessary.
    Oleg TITOV

  7. Tatyana IVONINA. Penza

    Hurried up this year with cabbage planting. It's still cold outside, but the seedlings are already high. A couple of weeks completely stretched out. What to do to prevent it from growing so much? How best to plant "overgrown"?

    • Margarita Pavlenko, Ryazan

      I do not remember a year that I did not grow cabbage seedlings. But it happens that it turns out to be too thin and long. This is bad for the crop, so I try not to allow the plants to stretch.
      So that the seedlings do not stretch out, I place the boxes with just appeared shoots in a cool place - 11-12 °. I keep them at this temperature until real leaves appear on the plants. Then I put the boxes in a room with a temperature of 16-17 °. After 2-2,5 weeks after sowing the seeds, I plant the seeds
      shading in the pots, drowning them on the cotyledonous leaves. When transplanting, I cut the roots approximately at 1 / 3. I put the sprouted cabbage on the most sunny place. It is necessary that the plants were in bright light no less than 11-12h. in a day.
      If, despite the efforts, seedlings stretched out, for 7-8 days before disembarkation into the ground, I stop watering it. I only water the water just before planting. I plant the plants deeper and later hibernate. After this, even a sprouting seedling gives a good harvest.

  8. Herman ZVYAGINTSEV, Lipetsk

    In our family, cabbage is very fond of, so we grow it a lot and necessarily different maturation periods.
    Most of all we plant early and mid-season varieties. Early cabbage is tasty and juicy, ripens in 2-2.5 months. But it cannot be stored for a long time, so we immediately use it for food. Mid-season harvest: harvest a little later - in 3-3,5 months! tsa. This cabbage is perfect for pickling and for all kinds of preparations.
    We judge the ripeness of the head by the color of the upper leaves. If they turn yellow, the cabbage is ripe. We cut off mature heads of cabbage with a strong knife, and if the head is large, we cut it down with a sharp ax, but so that a leg of 5-7 cm remains. It is more convenient to hang the heads during storage. At the same time, be sure to preserve the top layer of leaves so that the cabbage does not dry out.

  9. Semen ANTONOV, Odoyev

    Cabbage with lime is friendly
    Many years of work with cabbage and other cruciferous plants convinced me that these plants develop well only with low soil acidity. And maintaining the right balance is not so difficult.
    Approximately 1 times in 3 weeks I water cabbage with a solution of lime or dolomite flour. A glass of substance is poured into a bucket of water with a volume of 10 l and mix well. Under each head I pour out 1 l mixture. The remnants of the product can be watered radish and radish.
    Besides reducing acidity, cabbage, of course, needs other treatments. A couple of weeks after transplanting, I slightly huddle the young plants - thanks to this, oxygen reaches the roots faster, and the cabbage becomes stronger, develops faster. Since the beginning of summer, I water the culture abundantly almost every day. I stop watering 2-3 weeks before harvesting, otherwise the heads of cabbage will crack.
    Weekly feeding is of great importance. If I use chicken manure, I dilute it with water in a ratio of 1:20, if weed infusion is 1: 5, manure is 1:10. I alternate organic and mineral substances. Of the latter, I use ecofosca or nitrophoska in a ratio of 3 tbsp. l. per bucket (10 l). In feeding, I often add boron -2-3 g per Yul of water.
    The reward for all these labors is the weighty and dense heads.

  10. L. MOSIN

    Every summer cabbage leaves appear caterpillars.
    Appetite in their fresh air is good, as a result of which the cabbage grows slowly.
    Sometimes the caterpillars damage the cabbage growth point so much that the head is not able to form for a long time.
    Earlier I collected caterpillars manually, but in parallel I was always looking for some effective tool. And, imagine, I found it.
    Leaves of cabbage I sprinkle with drinking soda. The substance is completely harmless to plants and to humans, so treatment can be done several times a season without fear of overdose.

  11. L. Kvakin Kaluga Region

    Planted many different varieties of white cabbage, but I never managed to get quality head. They sometimes grow to solid sizes, but they always remain loose.

    • V. SLAVIN, an agronomist

      So that the cabbage is not loose and soft
      It is not easy to answer this question - there are too many unknowns in this problem. What sort are you planting? After all, there are varieties with a long growing season, which often form a loose head of cabbage: Urozhainaya, Losinoostrovskaya, Moscow late and some others. What is the age of the seedlings? When were they planted? How well is the site fertilized? How are things going with watering? Only having received answers to these questions, you can find out the reasons for your failures.
      Late cabbage can be sown in the first half of April, and seedlings should be planted in 20-25 May. Then it will have time to form a good vegetative mass and form a tight head. Late cabbage for this is needed in the middle band 160-170 days. The fact is that the formation of the head starts only after the end of the growth of the leaves.
      It is very important to observe the -distance- between landings. Late-ripening, well-leafy varieties require a large feeding area: 70 × 70 or 70 × 60 cm. Hybrids, varieties such as Amager 611 with a low vegetative mass, can be planted according to the scheme 70 × 40 cm. , or it turns out to be very loose.
      Cabbage is a moisture-loving plant: it requires a well-moistened (but not soggy!) Soil. With a lack (or excess) of moisture, the head of cabbage practically does not develop. The same happens if she is struck by a keel.
      On poor soils, in the absence of fertilizers, one should not expect to receive dense heads. So search for the reason, think, what condition of an agrotechnics you break.

  12. Dmitry Kharchyovkin. Bryansk

    On the vegetable beds I manage almost without "chemistry". For example, cabbage is protected by wormwood, which I grow in a corner of the garden. As soon as the first butterfly butterflies appear, I break the wormwood stems and spread them over cabbage.
    I always put onions and carrots side by side - and they "take care" of each other.
    With slugs I struggle so: I pour beer into a deep bowl in the evening. put it on a bed at night, and in the morning I collect a "drunk company" - I put pests in a bird feeder.
    I love coriander: in the spring, its young leaves make any salad appetizing, in summer the ripening seeds are driven away from the beds with the roots of mice and voles, and in winter I spread out its dried stems in the vault - their rodents, and at the same time potatoes and other vegetable supplies, bypass.


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