Transplant cabbage seedlings into the open ground - initial care
Contents ✓
We transplant seedlings of white cabbage into open ground without loss - top dressing and care
Seedlings of white cabbage "sit out" in the house did not last long, because not far off is the time to land on a permanent place. Let’s figure out how to do it right.
Family: Cabbage
Cycle: Biennial plant, in the first year it forms a powerful kidney-head with a mass of 400-500 g in early cabbage and up to 10-12 kg and more in later varieties
Vegetation: In early varieties - 70-130 days, medium varieties - 125-175, late varieties - 153-245
Cabbage crop rotation: Good predecessors - cucumbers, onions. tomatoes, potatoes, legumes, beets, pumpkin, perennial herbs; bad - other cruciferous
Read more: Compatibility and alternation of vegetables
For cabbage, choose smooth, well-sun-heated areas. For seedlings of early varieties, from autumn, 1-5 kg of rotted manure, 6-12 g of potassium chloride, 15-30 g of superphosphate and 40-25 g of ammonium nitrate are planted per 30 sq.m. For medium- and late-ripening, 5-10 kg of manure, 10-12 g of phosphorus and 20-25 g of potassium, and in the spring before planting, 10-12 g of nitrogen per 1 sq.m.
Preparation for planting cabbage seedlings
There are three main points. First, a week before the planting, the seedlings are transferred to a greenhouse or every day they put 3-4 hours in the sun. Secondly, reduce watering from daily to 1 times in 2-3 days, and the day before planting does not water at all (so that the seedlings are not broken on the road and it was easier to extract from the pot, and if poured, the plants are transported by laying on their side ). Thirdly, for 1,5-2 weeks before planting, seedlings are potted with potassium (4-6 g of potassium sulfate per 1 L of water), which increases the cold resistance of plants.
If the site has a risk of pests (for example, aphids), then for 2-3 days before disembarkation, the seedlings are watered with Aktara solution (0,3 g per 1 L of water).
FACT: planting sprouts cabbage is better in the morning or evening hours, when there is no direct sunlight. Ideal cloudy weather or even light rain.
On the market for concave seedlings
If you buy cabbage seedlings, pay attention to its appearance. The plant should have at least 3-x real leaves, be chunky, i.e. not extended in length, not to have kinks, injuries, etc. Pay special attention to the roots: their length should be at least one-third of the above-ground part, there should be no thickening, rot or other signs of disease on the roots.
Planting cabbage seedlings
Seedlings of early cabbage at the age of 60 days are planted in open ground in late April - early May, when the soil warms up to + 8 ... + 10 degrees. The planting pattern depends on the expected size of the head - a child 45 × 20-25 cm (cabbage with heads of conical shape can be planted more often). The age of the seedlings of cabbage of medium and late ripening varieties should not exceed 35 * her, otherwise the survival rate will fall. Plants are caught in the middle-end of the bark according to the pattern of 5 × 70-30 cm. Contrary to popular belief, cabbage should not be deepened: this leads to poor ventilation under the lower leaves, accumulation of excess moisture and disease damage.
It is more correct to plant it so that a third of the height of the cup (when removing the seedling from the pot, the soil in which it grew, retains the shape of the vessel) was above the soil level. Only strongly overgrown seedlings can be slightly closed.
After planting, plants are watered at the rate of 3-5 l / sq.m. To protect against frost, the bed is covered with a white spanbond. In addition to warming, it protects the soil from drying out, does not allow pests to penetrate plants. Cabbage is opened on the day after the daytime temperature rises to + 18 ... + 20 degrees.
Care of planted seedlings
First time watered cabbage sparingly. They are weeding from the weeds.
A great danger is represented by various pests (fleas, cabbage, aphids, whiting, etc.). Fight them chemically, alternating preparations of different groups, so as not to cause addiction in insects (for example, Decis, BI-58 New, Karate or Aktara).
Top dressing of young cabbage
In the initial stages of growth, cabbage requires a lot of nitrogen, and when heading, phosphorus and potassium. The beginning of top dressing is usually combined with the first hilling of the plant and watering: early varieties - 10-14 days after planting; later - after 20-30 days. The second and subsequent do 20 days after the previous one.
The first time they feed the cabbage with ammonium nitrate (5 g / l of water) or infusion of mullein (1: 5) or bird droppings (1:10), 1-1,5 l per plant. The second top dressing - with a mixture of ammonium nitrate, superphosphate and potassium chloride (1: 2: 1) at the rate of 40-60 g / m2, as well as nitrophosic in the same dose. In the future, if the plants are underdeveloped, make a mixture of superphosphate and potassium chloride (1: 30) or wood ash (XNUMX g around the plant).
Tip: Because of the wax coating on the leaves, the solutions used to treat cabbage for diseases and pests often roll to the ground. To avoid this, you can add an adhesive: special from the store or liquid soap, shampoo (1 tsp per 10 l of the composition).
See also: Growing White Cabbage - Planting and Care
Cabbage without seedlings
In the middle lane, open cabbage seeds are sown in open ground in early April, late - in the first decade of May. In the southern regions, late-ripe cabbage is sown in the first and second decades of May, mid-season - in late April - early and second decade of May. The seeds are quite densely sown immediately on the bed according to the scheme of 10-15 × 70 cm to a depth of 1-1,5 cm, they immediately spill the soil and then cover the area with a spanbond.
Cabbage sprouts will be able to fight for life only in a month, when they form 3-4 real leaf. Until this time comes, they will have to be taken care of especially carefully: regularly weed weeds, because young shoots are not in a position to compete with them, to process from cruciferous fleas and other pests. In the phase 4-6 of the real leaves, cabbage is thinned, leaving between adjacent plants in a row 40-50, see. It should not be done before: only by this age will it become clear whether the plant is injured with a whale or a black leg or not.
Cabbage: benefit
Cabbage leaves contain mineral substances, organic acids, enzymes, vitamins B, C, PP, K, E, U, dietary fiber, biologically active substances, as well as 16 amino acids, which suppress the growth and multiplication of pathogenic bacteria in the human body.
Cabbage improves digestion, metabolism, removes harmful cholesterol.
It is rich in potassium salts, which prevents fluid retention in the body.
Fresh cabbage juice is prescribed to drink 3 times a day 30 minutes before eating with an ulcer: starting from 0,5 tbsp. and gradually increasing a single dose to 1 tbsp. (do not add salt). The course of treatment is 3-4 weeks.
Choose the best variety of cabbage
Name | Features | Description |
Gribovsky 147 | Early ripening grade. It easily withstands both low temperatures and drought. On acidic soils, keel is affected | Round heads, mass t 1-1,5 kg, medium density |
Glory 1305 | Mid-ripe productive, adapted to different climatic conditions, one of the best pickling varieties. Cold-resistant, moisture-loving, resistant to cracking, heads of cabbage are stored until January | Heads of cabbage are round, with a diameter of 15-25 cm, juicy, average density, weighing 2,4-4,5 kg |
Moscow Late 15 | Late variety, medium transportability. Unsuitable for winter storage, but it is one of the best varieties for pickling. Demanding on fertility and moisture | Round heads, average weight - 4-6 kg |
On a note:
Lacy cabbage
Delicate corrugated leaves of Savoy cabbage do not have rough veins, it is juicier and more nutritious than white cabbage. There is it can be fresh and boiled, but most of all I like it stew, because when cooking Savoy does not produce the smell inherent in all cabbage. It is especially good to make cabbage rolls from it: the leaves are easily separated from the head and do not tear.
In the sale of seedlings Savoy cabbage is not met, so grow it myself. Since it is rather cold and seeds begin to germinate at + 3 degrees, I sow them in the middle of April on a sunny platform with fertile soil, then transplant to a permanent place.
Caring for savoy cabbage is even easier than for white-bodied: it is resistant to leaf-eating pests, and its matured heads of late varieties tolerate small frosts.
I cut the savoy of early varieties along with covering leaves when the heads of cabbage have reached a sufficient density, I do not tighten the harvesting - the forks can crack. We harvest early varieties in the summer, because it is not subject to storage, later ones we keep in the cellar for up to three months, laid out in a row on shelves or in boxes.
Reference by topic: Cultivation of the Savoy cabopus
Plant kohlrabi
Experienced gardeners grow kohlrabi throughout the summer, removing 2-3 waves of this cabbage from one bed. Now is the time to take care of the early harvest of the vegetable - 30-40-day-old seedlings of kohlrabi are planted in the ground at the same time as early cabbage. Planting pattern - 25-30 cm between plants and 45-60 cm between rows.
Kohlrabi can be used as a sealant (it is placed next to late-ripening vegetables), and also as a culture for re-sowing after harvesting green plants or early vegetables: onions on a feather, radish. In these cases kohlrabi is grown both in seedlings and without seedlings. Vegetables are eaten in salads, stewed and baked. They store stems, like white cabbage or table beets.
See also: Cabbage kohlrabi (photo) - cultivation and varieties
Our reference
In hot summers, kohlrabi should be watered well. Drought inhibits growth - and then the stem stalk is not formed or grows small, rough and tasteless. However, sharp abundant watering kohlrabi can crack!
Successful cabbage seedlings - tips
Cabbage sprouts love the cool and mandatory lowering of temperature at night.
For cabbage, completely spartan conditions are required (15-17 ° in the afternoon, 8-10 ° at night), for cauliflower and Brussels spicy conditions (17-20 ° in the afternoon, 20-15 ° at night). In the round-the-clock heat of the apartment, it will soon become pale after germination, stretch out and lie down. If circumstances force the preparation of seedlings in the city, then it is better to keep it on the balcony, loggia, in some cool place.
Typically, cabbage is sown in small street greenhouses, covered at night with glass or film. You can sow seedlings in unheated greenhouses, just in time for the planting of pepper and tomato in them, cabbage can be transferred to a permanent place. Cabbage should be planted in the ground when the ground warms up well. There is a reliable folk method for determining the timing of planting. If you can sit on the ground without bedding, it means that vegetables will be comfortable. If the body feels a deep cold, then the plants will suffer.
Why do we need seedlings?
Although cabbage for a season has time to go through a full life cycle, without growing seedlings still can not do. Why? The fact is that adult cabbage plants require a lot of space for nutrition. The swing outlets of leaves of some varieties can reach 1 m. Even small varieties of leafy cabbage should be placed at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other. Sowing seeds on a permanent place at such a distance is irrational. Therefore, cabbage is first sown and nurtured in nurseries.
Cooking the Earth
The soil for the nursery should be nutritious and friable. Special frills are not required: it is necessary to mix in equal parts turf ground and humus, add a little wood ash. Part of the humus can be replaced with peat, biohumus, overgrown sawdust. If the soil is too dense, you can pour a little sand for looseness. You can not take the land from the beds, where cabbage and other cruciferous plants grew in the past year (rutabaga, radish, turnip, mustard). The day before sowing, you should water the earth with a solution of potassium permanganate to prevent rot.
GROUND FOR CABBAGE
- Humus. 1 part
- Ash, 1 glass on the bucket of soil
- Soddy land, 1 part
Baby food
Cabbage seedlings need at least 2 top dressings: at the age of 2 weeks and a few days before planting in the ground. For the first top dressing, 1 tsp should be dissolved in 1 liter of water. ammonium nitrate and superphosphate. In order not to burn the roots, the plants must first be watered with clean water, only then with a fertilizer solution. For the second top dressing, an infusion of manure with the addition of ash is perfect. Between dressings, seedlings can be dusted with ash - this will also be the prevention of the black leg.
Seeds, to start!
Before sowing, seeds are best treated to increase their resistance to fungal diseases. Seeds for 15-20 minutes. immersed in water - about 50 °, and then for 5 minutes. placed in cold. You cannot process dragee seeds in this way! Soil needs to be watered before sowing, and then it is better not to water it before emergence. The germination of cabbage seeds is usually good, the seeds are not too small, so you can immediately sow at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other. If the seedlings are dense, they must be thinned. Whether picking - there is no single answer.
If the sowing was first done in egg-boxes, then it is better to distribute 2-week seedlings into pots. When sowing in hotbeds, you can confine yourself to thinning out shoots.
Moving to the garden
On a permanent place is usually planted 40-day seedlings, which has 2 of this leaf. In extreme cases, the presence of 3-4 leaves is permissible, a later transplantation leads to a severe development delay, the heads may not form at all. If the weather is unfavorable, it is better to plant the seedlings under temporary shelter than to delay with transplantation.
Excellent individual houses for cabbage are obtained from 5-liter plastic bottles from under the water. At the bottle, cut the bottom and install it above the plant with a neck up. In cold nights, you can twist the lids. Such caps further protect seedlings from leaf-eating insects.
© Alexey SOBOLEV, Ph.D. Agricultural Sciences, Sergey BARSUKOV, Ph.D. Agricultural Sciences., Vera Prokopalova, p. Nina of the Stavropol Territory
Below other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with their own hands"
- Cabbage Rinda - description and my reviews
- How to grow a huge kohlrabi cabbage - sharing secrets
- Cultivation of cabbage - top dressing in the hole when planting and tar from pests
- Instructions for growing seedlings of white cabbage
- Growing white cabbage in Tatarstan - tips
- Cauliflower Growing Secrets - Care Tips (Kurgan)
- Growing of cauliflower and broccoli in North Ossetia
- Heating a greenhouse for cabbage with an electric heater and other care (Amur Region)
- Seedlings of cabbage - the MOST common mistakes and causes of failure
- Pump and rotate: what to do with cabbage to prevent the heads from cracking
Subscribe to updates in our groups and share.
Let's be friends!
#
Plant cabbage where there used to be potato beds or beets, onions. Then the crop yield will increase significantly.
And lay in the holes when planting cabbage seedlings on a shovel of humus, a handful of ash and one peeled potato tuber of medium size. Potatoes under the influence of composting bacteria will gradually decompose, mix with ash and, together with it, supply all the microelements necessary for the active growth of cabbage. This is the best natural fertilizer known to me.
About this method, I learned from one grandmother, who was selling very delicious sauerkraut near my house. Thanks to him, my heads grow large and crispy.
#
In order for the cabbage to grow healthy, I plant it away from the apple, cherry, viburnum and plum - for some reason, it is near them that cabbage often suffers from pests. I stick sprigs of wormwood between the future heads of cabbage, sow coriander and marigolds nearby, as their smell scares away insects that annoy the cabbage.
To my landing did not attack slugs, mulch the soil with nettle. Periodically I inspect the leaves of cabbage from the lower side. If I see the larvae of a cabbage scoop, I spray the plants with an ash solution (for 10 l water 2 a glass of wood ash and 1 a liter of liquid soap). I also work with a mixture of slugs and a cabbage fly: I mix 1 a glass of lime and wood ash, 1 tsp. red pepper or mustard powder. I sprinkle this mixture and aisle. Thanks to such prevention my cabbage is whole!
#
I grow a lot of everything, everything grows well, but with cabbage, it's been three years now. And I do not understand what's the matter!
Sow, grows - and suddenly falls. They say that it is a black leg. But no black at ground level, and then good, and the root too. I buy different seeds: ka is empty in the context of green, and these hefty ribs - neither chop nor time to beat. Cabbage has always been white, but alas!
Last year they didn't even ferment - they grew very rough, and our whole family really love cabbage.
#
Cabbage from the refrigerator
The first 2 year I sowed cabbage for seedlings in old basins and boxes. I had to bring them home at night so that the seedlings on the street would not freeze, but in the morning they would take out again so that the seedlings would grow better in the sun. And so before transplanting into the ground.
Last year, I somehow took out the garbage and saw a scrapped refrigerator in the dump. Without thinking twice, he took him to the dacha and made a nursery for cabbage.
To do this, detached the door, laid the refrigerator on the back wall, to the bottom
laid out the manure, last year's leaves, all watered well and fell asleep with earth. Top covered with a frame with glass.
Since then, I sow cabbage only in the refrigerator! I do this at the end of April and do not worry that my seedlings will suffer from frost. The walls of the nursery are thick, do not freeze. From below, the manure produces heat. In the morning I just open the frame for airing.
Cabbage seedlings grow "zhirnenkaya", bright green and not stretched.
#
We sow cabbage in the ground
With the onset of stable heat, cabbage can be sown immediately into the ground. To do this, the soil must be loosened, make holes at a distance of 30-35 cm from each other, add to each little ashes and mix it with the ground. Seeds for a day to soak in a damp napkin.
Pour the wells with warm water, put in each a few swollen seeds. Sprinkle with soil and cover each well from the top - you can use a glass jar, you can use a transparent plastic lid from the cake.
Some time after the emergence of seedlings, the weakest in the hole must be removed. Moreover, it is not worth pulling them out by the root - this can damage the roots of the remaining plant. It is better to gently break off excess seedlings.
From above, the plants must again be covered with jars - to protect against temperature changes, cold winds and drying out. You can remove the shelter when the plant gets stronger and it already becomes cramped “under the hood”.
Later, it's a good idea to "plant" the plant in a wide ring, cut off from a plastic bottle. Such rings effectively protect young cabbage from slugs.
#
Cabbage - in the mud
Cabbage seedlings before planting pickled in the solution of the drug from root-eating pests. Usually I use Prestige (20 ml per 2 L of water) - I lower the roots in the solution for 6-8 hours before disembarking. Or Matador (10 ml per 200 ml of water): soak time - 1 hour.
The best cabbage gets accustomed to landing in the mud. If you plant her seedlings in a dry soil, and then water, there is a risk that the plants will be dragged into the ground deeper than necessary.
Oleg TITOV
#
Hurried up this year with cabbage planting. It's still cold outside, but the seedlings are already high. A couple of weeks completely stretched out. What to do to prevent it from growing so much? How best to plant "overgrown"?
#
I do not remember a year that I did not grow cabbage seedlings. But it happens that it turns out to be too thin and long. This is bad for the crop, so I try not to allow the plants to stretch.
So that the seedlings do not stretch out, I place the boxes with just appeared shoots in a cool place - 11-12 °. I keep them at this temperature until real leaves appear on the plants. Then I put the boxes in a room with a temperature of 16-17 °. After 2-2,5 weeks after sowing the seeds, I plant the seeds
shading in the pots, drowning them on the cotyledonous leaves. When transplanting, I cut the roots approximately at 1 / 3. I put the sprouted cabbage on the most sunny place. It is necessary that the plants were in bright light no less than 11-12h. in a day.
If, despite the efforts, seedlings stretched out, for 7-8 days before disembarkation into the ground, I stop watering it. I only water the water just before planting. I plant the plants deeper and later hibernate. After this, even a sprouting seedling gives a good harvest.
#
In our family, cabbage is very fond of, so we grow it a lot and necessarily different maturation periods.
Most of all we plant early and mid-season varieties. Early cabbage is tasty and juicy, ripens in 2-2.5 months. But it cannot be stored for a long time, so we immediately use it for food. Mid-season harvest: harvest a little later - in 3-3,5 months! tsa. This cabbage is perfect for pickling and for all kinds of preparations.
We judge the ripeness of the head by the color of the upper leaves. If they turn yellow, the cabbage is ripe. We cut off mature heads of cabbage with a strong knife, and if the head is large, we cut it down with a sharp ax, but so that a leg of 5-7 cm remains. It is more convenient to hang the heads during storage. At the same time, be sure to preserve the top layer of leaves so that the cabbage does not dry out.
#
Cabbage with lime is friendly
Many years of work with cabbage and other cruciferous plants convinced me that these plants develop well only with low soil acidity. And maintaining the right balance is not so difficult.
Approximately 1 times in 3 weeks I water cabbage with a solution of lime or dolomite flour. A glass of substance is poured into a bucket of water with a volume of 10 l and mix well. Under each head I pour out 1 l mixture. The remnants of the product can be watered radish and radish.
Besides reducing acidity, cabbage, of course, needs other treatments. A couple of weeks after transplanting, I slightly huddle the young plants - thanks to this, oxygen reaches the roots faster, and the cabbage becomes stronger, develops faster. Since the beginning of summer, I water the culture abundantly almost every day. I stop watering 2-3 weeks before harvesting, otherwise the heads of cabbage will crack.
Weekly feeding is of great importance. If I use chicken manure, I dilute it with water in a ratio of 1:20, if weed infusion is 1: 5, manure is 1:10. I alternate organic and mineral substances. Of the latter, I use ecofosca or nitrophoska in a ratio of 3 tbsp. l. per bucket (10 l). In feeding, I often add boron -2-3 g per Yul of water.
The reward for all these labors is the weighty and dense heads.
#
Every summer cabbage leaves appear caterpillars.
Appetite in their fresh air is good, as a result of which the cabbage grows slowly.
Sometimes the caterpillars damage the cabbage growth point so much that the head is not able to form for a long time.
Earlier I collected caterpillars manually, but in parallel I was always looking for some effective tool. And, imagine, I found it.
Leaves of cabbage I sprinkle with drinking soda. The substance is completely harmless to plants and to humans, so treatment can be done several times a season without fear of overdose.
#
Planted many different varieties of white cabbage, but I never managed to get quality head. They sometimes grow to solid sizes, but they always remain loose.
#
So that the cabbage is not loose and soft
It is not easy to answer this question - there are too many unknowns in this problem. What sort are you planting? After all, there are varieties with a long growing season, which often form a loose head of cabbage: Urozhainaya, Losinoostrovskaya, Moscow late and some others. What is the age of the seedlings? When were they planted? How well is the site fertilized? How are things going with watering? Only having received answers to these questions, you can find out the reasons for your failures.
Late cabbage can be sown in the first half of April, and seedlings should be planted in 20-25 May. Then it will have time to form a good vegetative mass and form a tight head. Late cabbage for this is needed in the middle band 160-170 days. The fact is that the formation of the head starts only after the end of the growth of the leaves.
It is very important to observe the -distance- between landings. Late-ripening, well-leafy varieties require a large feeding area: 70 × 70 or 70 × 60 cm. Hybrids, varieties such as Amager 611 with a low vegetative mass, can be planted according to the scheme 70 × 40 cm. , or it turns out to be very loose.
Cabbage is a moisture-loving plant: it requires a well-moistened (but not soggy!) Soil. With a lack (or excess) of moisture, the head of cabbage practically does not develop. The same happens if she is struck by a keel.
On poor soils, in the absence of fertilizers, one should not expect to receive dense heads. So search for the reason, think, what condition of an agrotechnics you break.
#
On the vegetable beds I manage almost without "chemistry". For example, cabbage is protected by wormwood, which I grow in a corner of the garden. As soon as the first butterfly butterflies appear, I break the wormwood stems and spread them over cabbage.
I always put onions and carrots side by side - and they "take care" of each other.
With slugs I struggle so: I pour beer into a deep bowl in the evening. put it on a bed at night, and in the morning I collect a "drunk company" - I put pests in a bird feeder.
I love coriander: in the spring, its young leaves make any salad appetizing, in summer the ripening seeds are driven away from the beds with the roots of mice and voles, and in winter I spread out its dried stems in the vault - their rodents, and at the same time potatoes and other vegetable supplies, bypass.